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FROM EDENVAL E TO THE PLAINS OF :

OR ,

A THOUSAND MILES IN THE VALLEYS OF THE NIDD AND YORE .

OLD YORK From a Sketch taken 5o years ago . BY EDMUND BOGG, Author of " and the Vale of the Nidd," " A Thousand Niles in Wharfedale," &'c. Member of the Archaeological Society, & c.

BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED WITH UPWARDS OF 200 SPECIALLY DESIGNED PICTURES, By Gilbert Foster, Percy Robinson, Albert Haselgrave, Frank Dean, Owen Bowen, Edmund Fogg, and others .

LEEDS : EDMUND BOGG, 3, WOODHOUSE LANE. YORK : JOHN SAMPSON, CONEY STREET .

CONTENTS .

CHAPTER I. PAGE. CHAPTER IV.— Continued. PAGE. A brief description of the interesting places in Richard Harrison ; Village ; Mt . the vales of the Yore and the Nidd . .. 1 to6 TON and SINNINGTHWAITE ; Bilton Church, &c . ; Its ancient features ; Skewkirk Ferry; CHAPTER II. ; The old Saxon Church; ; A Village Feast; A Retrospective Sketch ; The ; Original Characters ; The Upland Country 42 to 5 2 Druidism ; Queen Cartismandau ; Carac- tacus, 'a prisoner, is taken to Rome ; Th e CHAPTER V. subjection of the Brigantes by Rome ; The invasion of the Saxons and the dispersion The OUSEBUrN Villages : A vivid description of the old Celtic race ; Gregory the Great of bygone times ...... 53 to 64 and the tale of the Slave Market ; The conversion of Saxons by the Romish Church; CHAPTER VI. Edwin, Prince of ; The destruction of the Heathen Gods, Woden and Thor, and th e WHIXLEY ; Christopher Tancred, his curious Baptism of the Angles by Paulinus in the will, &c . ; The Church ; ALLErTON ; The Swale and the Yore ; The Battle of Heath- Mauleverers ; The Hall ; The Church and field and death of Edwin ; Winwoed Field Tombs of the Mauleverers ; The Vale and the death of Penda ; Noble and shining of Yolk, &c . ; Thornville Hall, formerly lights in the Saxon Church ; The invasion the abode of Colonel Thornton ; Famous of the Danes and capture of York ; Rule i n Race on Knavesmire ; Tale of the Miller, ; Harold of Westfold : a tra- &c. ; HUNSINGORE ; A Parson in the Stocks; dition ; Siward the Jarl : a dramatic death COWTHORPE Oak ; Anecdotes of the Village scene ; Troubles in Northumbria during the and Church ; Guy Fawkes ; INGMANTHORPE; rule of Tosti ; Is expelled, &c . ; Unfurls the A Submerged Forest ; Farmer Smith's old Viking standard ; Joins Hardrada ; Invades Grey Mare ...... 65 to 75 Northumbria ; The Battle of Stamford Bridge ; Hardrada and Tosti are slain and CHAPTER VII. the Norwegian fleet dispersed ; The conquest of by the Normans ; Battle of The CRIMPLE Country ; ALMES CLIFF Hastings and death of Harold ; The Rebellion ; Harry Buck the Wise Man ; BRACKENTHWAITE ; of the Anglo-Danish people in Northumbria; King Charles, &c. ; PANNAL ; A rural Capture of York and re-capture by the Village ; Description of the Church ; Pannal Normans ; Retaliation and devastation of Hall and the Tancreds ; FOLLIFOOT ;A ; Uprearing Village Picture ; SPOFFORTH Its early Northumbria by the conquerors History ; The Wars of the Percys : Otter- of mighty strongholds ; Death scene and burn and Shrewsbury ; Death of Hotspur burial of the Norman King . .. .. 7 to 32 and capture of Douglas ; Battle of Bramham Moor ; Defeat of the Rebels ; A Percy slain CHAPTER III. by the mob at Topcliffe ; Spofforth Castle NUNMONKTON : Its origin ; The Church of St. and the Church, &c . ; Blind Jack's Grave; Mary ; The village and neighbourhood ; NORTH DEIGHTON ; A June Eve ; Ancient NEWTON-ON-OUSE ; BENINBROUG H ; In the Burial Mounds ; ; A scene Ainsty Country ; The Red House : a des- of beauty ; The Church ; The Tomb of criptive sketch ; ;A Merleswyn and the De Ross Family ... 76 to 90 Thunderstorm ; MArSTON Village, &c. 33 to 41 CHAPTER VIII . CHAPTER IV . RIBSTONE ; A description of the Knight Marston Fight ; General description ; Flight an d Templars ; Charles Brandon ; Th chase of a Cavalier bearing the news to th e iche;. TheAndrew's; Church Family of St e Goodr Garrison of Knaresborough ; Safe arrival Goldsborough Hall ; The Huttons, the and death of his steed ; Wilstrop Hall and Byerleys and Lascelles' ; The Church and

vi,

CHAPTER VIII .—Continued. PAGE. CHAPTER- X .—Continued. PAGE . Tombs of the Templars ; Goldsborough The Graveyard ; A Riverside Picture ; CLINT Mill ; Grimbald Bridge ; St . Robert's Cave; and the Swale Family ; BURNT YATES and Birkham Deeps and Grimbalds Craggs; DARLEY ; CINDER HILLS ; Stumps Lane ; A MPTON;PLU Anecdote of Gilbert de Plump- Foul Murder ; A Story of Civil War; ton ; The Artist's Model, an original Darley Beck and Padside Hall ; Tradition character ; Abbey House ; Simpson's Cave of a Knight of the Ingleby Family ; Upper and St. Robert's Chapel . . .,. . . . 91 to 101 Nidderdale in general; A Sketch by W . H. Daykin 126 to 158

CHAPTER IX, CHAPTER XI. KNARESBOROUGH ; A Retrospective Sketch ; Eustace Fitz John and Hubert De Burgh; BRIMHAM ROCKS ; FELL BECK ; Tales of Bar- Richard, Earl of Cornwall ; The legend of guests and other Eerie Forms ; Ancient "Old Town Bay" ; Edmund Plantagenet; House ; Fell Beck and SMELTHOUSE; Piers Gaveston ; A Scottish Raid ; Edward WILSILL, BISHOPSIDE and BEWERLEY 159 to 16 3 III. and his good Queen Phillippa ; The days of Chivalry ; The Civil War ; Knaresborough in a state of Siege ; The Surrender ; A Story CHAPTER XII. of the Siege ; Description of the Castle; : Brief Description ; The The Church of Saint John ; The Slingsby Nidderdale Rant, etc. ; The Renowned Chapel and the Slingsbys ; A Melancholy Brothers Sinclair ; The Pates ; Bewerley Accident ; E. Hargrove ; The Historian's Hall and the Yorke Family ; Fishpond Grave ; Tale of Cromwell ; Sketch of old Wood ; RAVENSGILL, Raven's Nest, and Knaresborough ; Saint Robert ; Mothe r Bewerley Moors ; The Sabbath Bells; Shipton ; Eugene Aram and Blind Jack, GUYSCLIFFE ; The Folly and Tarn ; CASTLE- etc.; Scriven Hall ; SCOTTON Village ; The STEAD ; Eagle Hall ; GREENHOW HILL; be Brus Family ; The home of Guido Stump Cross Caverns and Trollers Gill; Fawkes ; Scotton Banks ; Nidd Hall ; Bilton Old World Customs and Beliefs still existing Fields and Conyngham House ; The Nidd at in the Dales ; FOUNTAINS EARTH, STONEBEC K Bilton Banks ; A Sunset Scene .. . 102 to 125 DOWN, and ; WATH Wood and Waterfall ; Pack Horse Bridge ; A Funeral Procession ; SIGSWORTH and ROBIN HOOD; CHAPTER X. A Moorland Tramp ; Merry field Glen; HARROGATE : A Descriptive Sketch ; A Royal HEATHFIELD ; Gowthwaite Hall ; The Com- Wedding Day ; An Ancient Forest ; Celtic, pensation Reservoir ; RAMSGILL and Eugene Roman, and Saxon Occupation ; William the Aram ; LoFTHOUSE ; Story of John Imeson; Conqueror and the Red King ; The Outlaws; HOWSTEAN Gorge and Tom Taylor's chamber; Robin Hood ; A Sketch of Forest Life; A hoard of Coins ; BLAYSHAW BENTS ; MID- Haverah Park, origin of its name ;A DLESMOOR ; A Scene from the Graveyard; Legend ; The Destruction of the Forest; Dead Man 's Hill and the Missing Pedlars; The gradual uprearing of a Beautiful Town; Stanzas to the Nidd, by W . C. Rushton 164 to 184 The Medicinal Springs ; Harrogate at the beginning of the present Century ; Magni- CHAPTER XIII. ficent Scene from Harlow's Hill ; The Nidd as a fishing ground ; Fishing Tales ; The A Rambler 's Reminiscences of Upper Nidderdale, Landlord Outwitted ; KILLINGHALL ; Leaven by J. T. Lowe ...... ' . . . 185 to 191 Hall ; Ripley Bridge and the old Water Mill ; A Summer Idyll ; The Village of RIPLEY ; A Legend of Ancient Days ; Oliver CHAPTER XIV. Cromwell and Dame Ingleby ; Sir George Ripley ; The Castle and Church of All The Source of the Rivers ; A Wild Tramp; Saints ; The Ingleby Chapel and Tombs of Shaw Paddocks ; Amongst the wild hills; the Inglebys ; Ancient Weeping Cross, etc .; The Devil's Bridge ; HELL GILL ; A famous BISHOP THOrNTON ; Brimham Lodge and leap ; Caught in a mountain Storm ; The Sir Richard Gresham ; Brimham Hall; Summit of High Seat ; A magnificent Thornton Beck and Shaw Mills, and forward prospect ; The Shepherd Lord ; Source to the river again ; HAMPSTHWAITE ; The of the Eden, Swale, and the Yore; Church and its Associations ; Blind Peter; The first bridge ; LUNDS and its Primitive Village Life half a Century ago ; William Church ; The Dalesman's Story A glorious Makepeace Thackeray ; Tang Beck ;A Sunset ; Mossdale, COTTERDALE, Widdale, Footpath by the Nidd ; BIRSTwITH Village; and Shunner Fell ; Cotter Force ; HArDRAW The Beautiful Sanctuary ; A Symphony; Force and the adjoining woodland . . 192 to 202

CHAPTER XV. PAGE. CHAPTER XVII.—Continued. PAGE . Round about Hawes, by Chas. Wilkinson; Ancient Stronghold ; The Church of the HAWES : Brief description ; Buttertubs Blessed Virgin and St. Alkeda ; Tomb of the Pass ; MUKER-ON-SWALE ; Hardraw Falls; Martyred Lady ; Memorial of Robert Cotter Foss and Mossdale ...... 203 to 208 Thornton, 22nd Abbot of Jervaulx ; Mid- dleham Moor Fair ; COVERDALE ; Braith- waite Hall ; A Solitary Wayfarer ; Coverham CHAPTER XVI . Bridge ; Ruins of Coverham Abbey ; Cover- BAINBRIDGE : Memoir of old Forest Days ; The ham Church ; " Lady Bab " ; An Interesting Horn Blower ; SEMMERDALE and SEMMER- Companion ; Homes of Famous Trainers; WATER ; ADDLEBROUGH ; COUNTERSETT,a Birds Ridding ; A Sequestered Dell ; The charming old Hamlet ; A Legend of Semmer- Old Water Mill ; CARLTON ; HORSE HOUS E water ; Carr End ; Thwaite End ; Raydale and BRADLEY ; WEST SCRAFTON ; A Magnifi- House and its Ghost Stories ; Stalling Busk cent Gorge ; A Pretty Glen ; The Thunder- and Bardale Beck ; Lost on Weatherfell ;A storm and the Rainbow : a Glorious Scene; Gloomy Tramp ; Hawes on the eve ofa St. Simon 's Well ; EAST WITTON ; The great Sheep Fair...... 209 to 2l8 Village Green ; A time-honoured Hamlet ; A neglected Graveyard ; A False Alarm : a Tale of the early years of this century ; Ulshaw CHAPTER XVII. Bridge ; St. Oswin, Prince of Deira ; Danby ; The Meeting of the Waters ; Danby ASK RIGG and NAPPA ; Grangebeck and the Abbey Mill of Fors ; Askrigg and Church of Saint Hall, the Residence of Simon Thomas Oswald ; Millbeck Force ; A Wild Sunset; Scrope ; The Scrope Family ; A Famous The Garland Races ; The Manor of Worton Trial ; THORNTON STEWART ; An Interesting and Village of THORNTON RUST ; Nappa Church ; The Ruins of JervaulX ; The Prior Hall ; Mary Stuart ; A Legend of the and Jew : a Scene from " Ivanhoe " ; Kilgrim Metcalfs ; A Story of Wood Hall ; The Bridge and its Legend . . . .. 219 to 274 Tramp ; Bear Park ; Carperby and Aysgarth Falls ; The Bridge ; The Upper Falls; CHAPTER XVIII. Church and Village ; BISHOPDALE ; Foss Gill; The Devil's Hull : a Legend ; NEwBIGGIN; MASHAM : Early History ; Alan, Earl of Rich- Street Head, etc. .; THORALBY ; Littleburn mond ; Roger de Mowbray ; The Scropes of House ; A Village Merrymaking ; WEST Masham and Upsall ; The Fairs ; Church of BURTON : a picturesque Village ; The Vale of St. Mary ; Remains of Ancient Cross; Walden ; The Temple ; SINNINGTHWAITE; Numerous Relics ; Graves of George Couitt WEST WITTON ; The Church of St. and Julius Caesar Ibbetson ; Clifton Castle; Bartholomew ; Relics ; John James, F .S.A.; Low BURTON ; BiNso ; Aldborough Hall ; Edmund Loures ; The Village Feast :a Ancient Entrenchments ; The River Burn; singular custom ; CHANTRY ; PENHILL ; Polly The Villages of HEALEY and FEARBY ; Peachum ; An Old Ford ; THORESBY ; Story Remains of Druidism ; COLSTERDALE ; KIRK of King Olaf ; Legend of a Treasure Trove; GILL ; A Mock Temple ; Grimes Gill Beck; Bolton Castle : a Retrospect ; Queen Mary Pott Beck ; ILTON : a Magnificent Prospect; a Prisoner ; The Attempted Flight ; Lord Description ; HACKFALL : Enchanting Scenes; Scrope ; The Nortons ; Death of Mar y GREWELTHORPE and MICKLEY ; T ANFIELD Stuart ; Castle, Bolton ; The Church of St. and the Marmions ; A Martial Race ; Tan- Oswald ; A Charming Vale ; REDMIRE field Church and the Marmion Tombs ; Village ; A 19th Century Seer ; A Primitive The Marmion Chantry ; Matthew Beckwith Church ; Scarthe Nick, and the Village of and Mr. Littleton ; Slenningford Hall ; PRESTON-UNDER-SCAR ; The Yore at Flood; STAINLEY Village ; EAST TANFIELD 275 to 291 Bolton Woods : a Glorious Scene ; Bolton Hall and the Powlets : a Singular Charac- CHAPTER XIX. ter ; WEN SLEY ; A peaceful Village and its Interesting Church ; Many Relics ; The Old The Vale of MOWBRAY ; A Rural Village ; St. Elm Tree ; Drunken Barnaby ; The Shawl; Michael 's Well ; King Edwin ; Reflections; LEYBURN, BELLERBY, HART LEAP WELL; WELL in Domesday Book ; The Church; The Legend of HARMBY and its Buried Interesting Interior ; The Hospital ; Ancient Treasure ; SPENNITHORNE Village ; The Cross ; Memory Pictures of Village Life 292 to 299 Church of St. Michael ; Relics of the Past; John Hutchinson and Richard Hatfield; CHAPTER XX. Sunset ; MIDDLEHAM from the Meadows ;A Dream of the Past : its Days of Prosperity; A Tramp through the Corn Country ; BEDALE; Warwick, the King Maker ; Review of A Market Day ; Old Eli the Raven ; The Noble Owners ; Its decline ; The Castle and Church ; Massive Tower ; Interior ; Inter- Village ; Ghilpatric, a Danish Chieftain ; An esting Relics ; The Hamlet of FIRBY : Snape

CHAPTER XX .—Continued. PAGE . CHAPTER XXI .—Continued. PAGE . Castle ; NOSTERFIELD ; Circular Entrench- of St . Wilfrid ; The Horn Blower ; The ments ; The Tournament ; Norton Conyers ; Minster Church ; SHAROW Village ; COPT The Church and old-time Relics ; The lat e HEWICK ; Blois Hall and Ancient Entrench- Rev. W . C . Lukis ; MELMERBY, MID- ments ; MARTON-LE-MOORS ; An Old Track- DLETON-QUERNHOW and Thomas Herbert ; way ; BRIDGE HEWICK ; Givendale and Simon The Village of BALDERSBY ; George Hudson, de Ward ; Newby Hall and Park ; Statue o f the Railway King ; Whitestonecliff, a John Sobieski, King of Poland ; A lament- tradition in verse ; RAINTON Village ; The able Hunting Accident ; Sir Robert Vyne r Village Sanctuary ; Reminiscences of a and Charles II. ; SKELTON Church and Raintonian ...... 300 to 31 1 Village ; MARKINGTON ; WORMALD GREEN ; STAINLEY ; BURTON LEONARD and Co p - CHAPTER XXI . GROVE ; Church of Saint Michael ; Saint The Western Tributaries ; The Source of the Mungo's Well ; STAVELEY Village and Becks ; ; Roger de Church ; Tit Poole, a Witch ; The Villages Mowbray The Site of an Ancient Castl e of ROECLIFFE and MINSKIP, &C. ; BOROUGH - Noble Church ; Mot, or Moot Hill ; Wise BRIDGE and ALDBOROUGH ; Review of th e Men and Women ; AZERLEY and GALPHEY ; Past ; The Devil 's Arrows ; Vestiges o f The Laver ; DALLOWGILL ; "And Neddy, " Roman Occupation ; Aldborough Church ; a Singular Character ; LAVERTON an d Battle of Boroughbridge ; Old Coaching WINKSLEY ; Long Tommy and Short Tommy ; Days ; Barnaby Fair ; Picturesque Spots ; A Twilight Scene ; The Skell Country KIRBY BILL ; Leeming Lane ; Kirby Hill HUNGATE ; HIGH and Low GRANTLEY ; Church ; GRAFTON ; MARTON and Low ALDFIELD ; A Winter's Eve ; Markenfield DUNSFORTH ; MYTON Village ; Battle of Ball ; A Misty Day ; Fountains Abbey ; Myton Meadows ; A Scottish Raid ; A The First Settlement ; Poverty of th e Night Visit to the Battlefield ; Roger de Monks ; Increase of Riches ; Fountains Mowbray and Byland Abbey ; ALDWARK Abbey : a Poem, by John H . Fearnley and LINTON-ON-OUSE ; NEWTON Village and Fountains Hail ; Robin Hood and the Curtal Churchyard ; MONKTON and BENINBOROUGH ; Friar ; RipoN ; Saint Wilfrid leaves home YORK City ; Reflections : Gorgeous Pageants, at 14, travels from court to court, promote d &c. ; , the ancient Palace of th e to Monastery at Ripon, is banished and re - Archbishops ; Death of Archbishop Scrope ; appointed ; St. Wilfrid's Saturday ; Feast FINALE . . . 312 to 345