Paper DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.7784/rbtur.v11i2.1304

Boticas and the “Wine of the Dead”: reinforcing cultural territorial identity in wine tourism experiences

Boticas e o “Vinho dos Mortos”: reforçar a identidade cultural do ter- ritório na experiência de enoturismo

Boticas y el "vino de los muertos": fortalecer la identidad cultural del territorio en la experiencia del turismo de vino

Josefina Olívia Salvado1

Abstract: Justified purpose of the topic: The territory of Boticas (in the North of ) has a low population density and is considered a powerful space of cultural heritage. Objective: The wine tourism ecosystem strategy will involve several dynamics that can enhance endogenous resources, resulting in a reinforcement of identity and Cultural uniqueness. The "wine of the dead" is a surviving symbolic wine tradition connected with the second French Invasion of Portugal (1808). The expression “Wine of the dead” derived from the ancient practice of burying the bottles underneath cellar floors to safeguard property from the French soldiers. Design / Methodology and approach: Two qualitative methodolo- gies were used: MatrizPCI (Intangible Cultural Heritage Matrix), following UNESCO's guidelines on "Safeguarding Cultural Heritage" for endogenous resources inventory, and Buhalis’ six A's framework for the analysis of tourism destinations. Results: The results show Boticas as a multifunctional geo- graphical space where its endogenous characteristics / attributes ensure a privileged and competitive position within the framework of wine tourism. Originality of the document: This work is original on the theme and framework.

Keywords: Wine tourism Ecosystem. Cultural Heritage. Wine of the dead. Boticas.

Resumo: Propósito justificado do tema: O território de Boticas (Norte Portugal), embora de baixa densidade populacional é visto como um espaço de valorização do património cultural, ao integrar de forma harmoniosa o seu ecossistema de enoturismo através de várias dinâmicas potenciadoras dos

1 PhD in Tourism (Aveiro University). Aveiro University GOVCOPP (Governance, Competitiveness, and Public Pol- icy Research Unit) Research fellow. Conception and design of scientific work; Data collection and results inter- pretation of data; writing the work.

Paper submitted in: 10/02/2017. Paper accepted in: 20/04/2017.

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Salvado, J. Boticas and “Wine of the Dead”: reinforcing cultural territorial identity in wine tourism experiences

recursos endógenos, resultando num reforço da identidade e singularidade culturais. Objetivo: O objectivo deste trabalho é mostrar o “vinho dos mortos” como uma tradição vitivinícola peculiar e um símbolo da astúcia e sobrevivência do povo de Boticas, tendo surgido no período da 2ª Invasão Francesa (1808). O seu nome resultou do facto do vinho ter sido enterrado no chão das adegas, no saibro, debaixo das pipas e dos lagares para salvaguardar o património do saque dos soldados franceses. Design/Metodologia e abordagem: No estudo foram utilizadas duas metodologias qualitativas: MatrizPCI (Matriz Património Cultural Imaterial) para inventariação dos recursos endógenos, seguindo as orientações da UNESCO quanto à “Salvaguarda de Património Cultural” e o modelo dos 6 A’s de Buhalis para o reconhecimento dos atributos do destino turístico e sustentar a propostas de criação de valor na experiência de Enoturismo. Resultados: Os resultados mostram Boticas como um espaço geográfico multifuncional onde as suas características/atributos endógenos asseguram um posicionamento privilegiado e competitivo no quadro do turismo de vinho. Originalidade do documento: Este trabalho é original quanto ao tema e enquadramento.

Palavras-chave: Enoturismo. Ecossistema. Património cultural. Vinho dos Mortos. Boticas.

Resumen: Justificativo del tema: El territorio de Boticas (Norte de Portugal), a pesar de la baja densi- dad de po-blación, es visto como un espacio con valores para el patrimonio cultural, integrando armo- niosamente su ecosis-tema con el turismo del vino a través de diversas dinámicas potenciadoras de los recursos locales, dando como resultado un fortalecimiento de la identidad cultural y la singularidad de la cultura local. Objetivo: El objetivo de este trabajo es mostrar el "vino de los muertos" como una tradición peculiar de las marcas de vino y un símbolo de la astucia y la supervivencia de las personas de Boticas, surgido en el período de la segunda invasión francesa (1808). Su nombre se debe al hecho de que el vino ha sido colocado en el suelo de la bodega, en tierra batida, bajo las tuberías y los molinos para salvaguardar del saqueo de los soldados franceses. Diseño/Metodología y enfoque: en el estudio cualitativo se utilizaron dos metodologías: MatrizPCI (matriz de patrimonio cultural intan-gible) para el inventario de los recursos locales, siguiendo las directrices de la UNESCO sobre la "protección del patrimonio cultural" y el modelo de los "6 As" de Buhalis, para el reconocimiento de los atributos del destino turístico y sostener las propuestas de creación de valor en la experiencia del turismo de vino. Resultados: Los resultados muestran Boticas como una zona geográfica multifuncional donde sus ca- racterísticas/atributos locales garantizan una posición competitiva privilegiada en el turismo de vino. La originalidad del documento: Este trabajo es único por su tema y encuadre.

Palabras clave: Turismo de Vino. Ecosistema. Patrimonio cultural. Vino de los muertos. Boticas.

1 INTRODUCTION study focuses on Boticas wine tourism eco- system integrated on “Terra de Barroso” (old Boticas, a low population density ter- Barroso land), whose landscape will be char- ritory, is a tourism destination with unique acterized in Section 2. Asero & Patti (2009) endogenous assets, such as “wine of the refers wine as a “territorial intensive prod- dead” connected with the place history. The uct", containing a strong reference to territorial identity.

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The concept of ecosystem associated duced and appropriated by society, com- with wine tourism will be detailed in section posed by natural and cultural objects interre- 3, presenting its main components, Territory, lation. Space is where the human memory is Tourism and Wine culture. Boticas "Wine of settled, having a relationship with the people the Dead" wine tourism is recognized as an who inhabit it. Geographic space is the con- important vehicle for regional sustainability, tinuous result of socio-spatial relations that integrating cultural resources in the tourist can be economic (relationship between soci- offer. According to Brunet (1990), in space- ety and economy), political (society-state re- territory local actors give rise to a sense of lationship) and symbolic-cultural relations belonging and identity, creating bonds of sol- (imaginary society-space relationship). The idarity between them. Two qualitative meth- driving forces of these relations (Lefebvre, odologies were used and detailed in section 1991) are the human action and its spatial 4 to support the proposals of value creation practices. Within space-territory we find: in the Enotourism experience. The PCI Matrix Landscape, places, territory, regions, society, (Intangible Cultural Heritage Matrix) follow- and nature. The landscape involves sociocul- ing UNESCO's guidelines on "Safeguarding tural elements resulting from historical, cul- Cultural Heritage" for endogenous resources tural, emotional, physical, and natural dy- inventory, and Buhalis’ 6 A's model for tourist namics. Places are linked to the cultural di- attributes recognition. Section 5 presents a mension and are strongly related to space differentiated wine tourism proposal, inte- identity and affectivity between individuals. grating cultural products on Boticas "Wine of Territory is temporary and modifiable, result- the Dead" enotourism experience. The suc- ing from historical and geographical division cess of Boticas wine tourism is the implemen- process and associated with geographic bor- tation of these cultural dynamics, in order to ders. Demangeon (1982) considers the Hu- develop space-territory sustainability. man Geography studies a "relation of the hu- man groups with the geographical environ- 2 BOTICAS SPACE-TERRITORY CHARACTER- ment”. Moreira (1982) understands geo- IZATION graphic space as a structure of relations un- der social determination. 2.1 “Terra de Barroso” a low-density terri- According to Figure 1, Boticas is lo- tory cated in the North (NUTS II) Region, in the Sub-region (NUTS III) Alto Trás-os-Montes, The territorial construction of Portu- belonging to the Alto Tâmega Intermunicipal gal is not homogeneous. Two types of terri- Community (CIM) (includes the municipali- tories are mentioned by Pecqueur (2000), a ties of Boticas, Chaves, , Ribeira political-administrative and a space-territory. de Pena, Valpaços, and ). According to Oliveira Jorge, V. (2005) space- Boticas territory is part of Barroso land cre- territory is understood as the space pro- ated in 1836. Boticas is in the west and north- west part of Montalegre,

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borders Chaves in east, Vila Pouca de Aguiar Alturas do Barroso; Ardãos; Beça; ; in the southeast, in the Boticas; Cerdedo; Codessoso; Covas do south, and in the south- Barroso; Curros; Dornelas; Fiães do Tâmega; west. Boticas is surrounded by Cenabria, Granja; Pinho; São Salvador de Viveiro; Larouco, Gerês, Cabreira and Marão Sapiãos; Vilar. mountains and has several villages such as:

Figure 1 – Location of Boticas

Source: The author, based on CAOP, version 2013

The North region (NUT II) has 35% desertification caused by land and produc- (3 696 762 inhabitants) of the national popu- tive abandonment; economic weakening; lation (10,562,178), with an unequal distribu- high cost of infrastructures and equipment; tion as shown in Table 1 and Table 2. Two- reduction of key public services; and degra- thirds of the national territory, is defined as dation of life conditions and opportunities. Low Density, with inevitable effects: physical

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Salvado, J. Boticas and “Wine of the Dead”: reinforcing cultural territorial identity in wine tourism experiences

Table 1 - Territorial Nomenclature Units (NUTS) established by European Community Regulation No. 868/2014 Resident NUTS I NUTS II NUTS III Population Municipalities (2011 Census) Alto Minho 244 836 10 Cávado 410 169 6 Ave 425 411 8 Metropolitan Area of Oporto 1 759 524 17 North Alto Tâmega 94 143 6 Tâmega and Sousa 432 915 11 Douro 205 157 19 Trás-os-Montes 117 527 9 Aveiro Region 370 394 11 Coimbra Region 460 139 19 Continental Leiria Region 294 632 10 Portugal Viseu Dão Lafões 267 633 14 Center Beiras and Serra da Estrela 236 023 15 Beira Baixa 89 063 6 Oeste 362 540 12 Médio Tejo 247 331 13 Metropolitan Area of Lisbon Metropolitan Area of Lisbon 2 821 876 18 Alentejo Litoral 97 925 5 Alto Alentejo 118 506 15 Alentejo Region Alentejo Central 166 726 14 Baixo Alentejo 126 692 13 Lazíria do Tejo 247 453 11 Algarve Region Algarve 451 006 16 Source: INE, I. P. | Northern Region 2015 Statistical Yearbook.

Low density territories or "demo- tory, concentrating less than 50% of the pop- graphic winter" as Moutinho and Manso ulation, 21% of whom are 65 years or older. (2015) put it is not only related to demo- Silva and Chamusca, (2010) argued that low graphic dynamics, but it involves also eco- density territories are more dependent on nomic and social aspects. external resources, because of traditional Low density territories in Portugal, sectors specialization, hindering moderniza- are more than 80% of the continental terri- tion and soft competitiveness.

Table 2 - NUT III Population NUT III Population (% North region) Alto Minho 244 836 7% Cávado 410 169 11% Ave 425 411 12% Metropolitan Area of Oporto 1 759 524 48% Alto Tâmega (includes Boti- cas) 94 143 3% Tâmega e Sousa 432 915 12% Douro 205 157 6% Trás-os-Montes Region 117 527 3% Total North region 3 689 682 Source: The author, based on INE, 2012 - Portugal 2011 Census

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The Alto Tâmega region, integrating Boticas has 321.96 km ² of area and a contin- the Barroso land, a low-density territory, has uous decline in the population from 1864 to 94 143 inhabitants (3% of the population of 2011 (5 750 inhabitants in 2011), (Graphic 1). the North of Portugal). The municipality of

Graphic 1 - Boticas – Population development from 1864 to 2011

16.000 14.481 14.000 13.247 11.786 12.000 10.982 10.937 11.154 10.925 9.933 10.133 10.338 9.388 10.000 8.773 7.936 8.000 6.417 5.750 6.000

4.000

2.000

0 1864 1878 1890 1900 1911 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960 1970 1981 1991 2001 2011

Source: The author, based on INE data (2012) - Census of 2011 - total population

Due to its geographical location and (p.24). "Alto Tâmega has faced, in recent difficult access, Boticas is a remote region un- years, a gradual and relatively sharp decline dergoing depopulation, with a low popula- in the number of residents in its six munici- tion density and high percentage of aged palities: in a period of ten years, it lost 11% of population (Table 2). The above information its population”. The strong aging trend is pre- is corroborated by the Territorial Develop- sented in Graphic 2. ment Strategy for Alto Tâmega document

Graphic 2 - Boticas - Population age structure from 1900 to 2011 7.000

5.825 6.000 5.420

5.000 4.672 4.704 4.640 4.479 4.369 4.448 0-14 Anos 4.000 3.710 3.718 15-24 Anos 3.046 2.843 3.000 25-64 Anos = ou > 65 Anos 2.000

1.000

0 1900 1911 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960 1970 1981 1991 2001 2011

Source: The author, based on INE data (2012) - Census of 2011 - total population

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The present situation, according to Alto tes region has several microclimates, differ- Tâmega Territorial Development Integrated ent types of soils (granitic with shale out- Strategy (p. 26) "… population presents low crops) and a great adaptability of grape vari- levels of training and qualification when com- eties, allowing singular wines. pared to the national reality: more than half These geographical differences make of the population has no education”. This possible to define three sub regions for the scenario reflects the region's inability to re- production of quality wines entitled Trás-os- tain qualified employees. Montes Denomination of Origin (DO). The most important red varieties of this region 2.2 Boticas Wine activities are Trincadeira, Bastardo, Marufo, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, and Touriga Franca, Wine is one of the agricultural prod- and the most planted white varieties are uct with higher mobility and expansion ca- Syria, Fernão Pires, Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, pacity throughout history, being present in Rabigato and Viosinho. all the continents (Carlan, 2012, p.85). Lei- Trás-os-Montes Denomination of sure time associated with wine sociability is Origin (DO) was recognized in November 9, not a recent phenomenon. The Romans be- 2006 (Ordinance No. 1204 / 2006) including came interested in wine around 200 BC. three sub-regions, Chaves, Valpaços and Some rich Romans owned villas where they Planalto Mirandês, all of which are listed in grew vines and produced small quantities of Figure 4. The rest of the territory is consid- wine for self-consumption and drinking with ered as a Protected Geographical Indication their friends (Johnson, 1989). The social, cul- (PGI), wherein the Wine of the Dead is inte- tural, and religious importance of drinking grated. The control and defense of the De- wine is more intense in the Greek world than nomination of Origin and Geographical Indi- in the Roman world (Montanari, 2008, pp. cation are the Trás-os-Montes Regional Wine 91-92). Commission (CVVTM) responsibility (created The vine cultivation and wine produc- in 1997). Currently 94 producers contribute tion in Trás-os-Montes Region has a secular with an annual volume of 3 million liters of origin, from Roman and Pre-Roman origin, as certified wine. archaeological remains show. Trás-os-Mon-

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Figure 2 – Geographical Indication and Denominations of Origin - Trás-os-Montes Wine Region

Source: Anuário do IVV 2011 in http://www.vinetowinecircle.com/regioes/transmontano/

Exploring briefly each DO subregion Vilas Boas, Vilela do Tâmega e Vilela Seca), and according to CVVTM information, the Vila Pouca de Aguiar (parishes of Capeludos subregion of Chaves, is situated on the slopes and Valoura). of small valleys, running toward the valley of Valpaços subregion is in the center of the Tâmega River. In this subregion, the soils Terra Quente Transmontana heart. The soils are essentially granite, the altitude is around present significant differences, specially 350 to 400 m, with high relative humidity granite soils, the altitude is around 450 to levels and it includes Anelhe, Arcossó, 650 m, with higher temperatures during sum- Bustelo, Calvão, Cela, Curalha, Eiras, mer and lower values of relative humidity, as Ervededo, Faiões, Lama de Arcos, Loivos, well as lower values of rainfall in winter. Madalena, Oura, Outeiro Seco, Póvoa de Valpaços subregion includes parishes from Agrações, Redondelo, Samaiões, Sanjurge, the municipalities of Macedo de Cavaleiros Santa Cruz/Trindade, Santa Maria Maior, (Arcas, Cortiços, Lamalonga, Sesulfe, and Santo António de Monforte, Santo Estêvão, Vilarinho de Agrochão), of Mirandela São Pedro de Agostém, Seara Velha Selhariz, (Abambres, Aguieiras, Alvites, Avantos, Soutelinho da Raia, Soutelo, Vale de Anta, Bouça, Cabanelas, Carvalhais, Fradizela, Vidago, Vila Verde de Raia, Vilar de Nantes, Franco, Lamas de Orelhão, Múrias, Vilarelho da Raia, Vilarinho das Paranheiras, Mascarenhas, Mirandela, Passos, São Pedro

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Velho, São Salvador, Suçães, Torre de D. 2.3 The Wine of the Dead, genesis and other Chama, Vale de Gouvinhas, Vale de Salgueiro practices and Vale de Telhas), of Murça (Jou), of Valpaços (Água Revés e Castro, Ageriz, Between 1807 and 1811, occurred Barreiros, Bouçoães, Canaveses, Carrazedo three invasions of Portugal (Hobsbawn, E., de Montenegro, Ervões, Fornos do Pinhal, 1977 and 1996, Silva, J., 2012), known as Possacos, Rio Torto, Sanfins, Santa Maria de French Invasions, led by General Junot, Mar- Emeres, Santa Valha, São Pedro de Veiga de shal Soult, and Marshal Massena, respec- Lila, Sonim, Vales, Valpaços, Vassal, Veiga de tively, as observed in Figure 3. Lila, and Vilarandelo), and of Vinhais With the first French invasion in 1807, (Agrochão, Ervedosa, Rebordelo, Vale das Junot (the French commander) started in Fontes, and Vale de Janeiro). Alcântara (Spain) in direction to Lisbon, Miranda subregion is located in the through Idanha-a-nova, Castelo Branco, and southeast of the Trás-os-Montes region, with Abrantes. There was no Portuguese military Douro River influencing the vine plants. The force to oppose the French army, but on the soils are essentially schist, the altitude is contrary there was a powerful diplomatic around 350 to 600 m, covering Miranda do representation aiming to delay their advance Douro, Mogadouro, Vimioso, Freixo de to Lisbon, enabling the royal family to Espada à Cinta (Fornos and Lagoaça), Torre escape. de Moncorvo (Carviçais, Felgar, Felgueiras, The royal family went to Brazil Larinho, Maçores, Mós and Souto da Velha, avoiding the loss of Portugal's independence. excluding areas belonging to the Douro Junot dissolved the regency board and ruled Region). Portugal in Napoleon’s name. The country Transmontano Geographical Identifi- was left without a Portuguese monarch, and cation was recognized on November 9, 2006 the whole country was marked by death, (Decree No. 1203/2006). The "Wine of the pillaging and fighting. The Napoleonic troops Dead" is included in this denomination, and left in the country a trail of destruction, killed can be produced throughout the Region. The many people, burned down houses, and municipality built the Repository of the Wine devastated cultures. of the Dead, in Granja, aiming at the promo- According to Oliveira Marques, a Por- tion, dissemination, observation, and preser- tuguese historian, "Four years of war left the vation of this wine, thus boosting its produc- country in misery. French invasions and occu- tion and sale. The Cooperativa Agrícola de pation devastated Portugal. Agriculture, in- Boticas (CAPOLIB) is the holder of the patent dustry and commerce were deeply affected, for the "Wine of the Dead" and Mr. Armindo not to mention the loss of lives... and the Pereira, the sole "official" producer of this monasteries, palaces and even humble wine. houses were pillaged”. French soldiers and commanders followed Napoleon's maxim “the war must sustain the war" pillaging,

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sometimes for personal gain and others for army, led by Arthur Wellesley, landed near the survival of the army. Portuguese popula- Figueira da Foz and, joining the Portuguese tion reacted against the invader, with popu- army, defeated the French in the Battles of lar resistance movements. In 1808 an English Roliça and Vimeiro.

Figure 3 - French Invasions Map

Source: Oliveira, A., Arinda Rodrigues, A., & Cantanhede, F. (2005)

Napoleon did not give up conquering Oporto city. During the second French inva- Portugal and then, still in March 1809 Mar- sion, the property was destroyed and pil- shal Soult entered in Portugal from the north laged. Trying to defend its patrimony, the of the country. The Second French invasion people of Boticas decided to hide the most entered in Portugal by Chaves, commanded precious assets, such as wine, burying the by General Soult. From the Chaves border, bottles in the floors, thus originating the they continued the invasion, passing through ‘Wine of the Dead’. So, it was the Second Sapiãos, Boticas, Couto Dornelas, pursuing French invasion that gave rise to a true ex li- their objectives by the shortest route to bris of Boticas - the ‘Wine of the Dead’. This

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wine is therefore the symbol of a war of sub- thus, boost the local economy." sistence, not only material and economic, but This tradition of the "Wine of the also moral. Dead" was replicated in Brazil, in the Quinta The third French invasion happened do Olivardo winery, in São Roque, SP, as re- in July 1810. General Massena and his army, ported by Sorocaba and Jundiaí on entered in Portugal by the Almeida border, in 05/21/2016 (http://g1.globo.com/sao -paulo Beira Alta and went to Lisbon where they / sorocaba-jundiai / news / 2016/05 / tradi- were defeated in the Battle of Buçaco. How- tion-of-wine-of-the-dead-and-attraction-of- ever, they continued toward the capital, but sabado-em-sao-roque.html) and the Sabores were detained in the Linhas de Torres. De- newspaper of May 5, 2016. feated, the French were forced to leave de- finitively Portugal in March 1811. 2.4 "Water Wine" another buried wine After the French expulsion, the inhab- practice itants recovered their houses and the re- maining assets. In Boticas, when they dug up “Water Wine” is an innovative prac- the "wine of the dead" they thought it was tice of burying wine done by a wine producer ruined. However, they discovered with pleas- in Alentejo. Thirty thousand bottles of red ure that it was much tastier because it had wine Conde D'Ervideira Reserva Tinto 2014 (a acquired new properties. It was a wine with blend produced from the selections of the 10/ 11 degrees of alcohol content, light-red best varieties of the Touriga Nacional, Ara- colored, with some natural gas, which re- gonez, Tinta Caiada, Alicante Bouschet and sulted from the fact that it had produced fer- Cabernet Sauvignon and Castor) was buried mentation in the dark at constant tempera- in the Alqueva waters. The technique of sub- ture. merging bottles is ancient, dating from the In the twenty-first century, the leg- time of the Discoveries, when the boats and end, tradition and conservation process of ships in which they were transported sunk. the "Wine of the Dead" is perpetuated with As reported by the news agency Lusa on Oc- pride and this intangible heritage of Boticas tober 2015, the sealed bottles and packed in is spread throughout the world, by the wine- large boxes, were put on water aging for maker Mr. Armindo Sousa Pereira. He is the eight months (to a depth of 15 or 17 meters only producer officially registered to com- and a constant temperature of 17 degrees). mercialize the "Wine of the Dead". The 2013 This process gives wine an extraordinary no- harvest was 6,500 bottles which were sold ble maturity, exuberant and round in terms across the country and carried "across the of tannins. According to online magazine, borders" by emigrants and tourists passing Dinheiro Vivo, in www.Dinheirovivo.pt/top- through Trás-os-Montes. According to the ico/vinhos/ from February 2, 2016 "Alentejo newspaper Diário de Notícias of October 14, wine producer bet on Water Wine, and rec- 2013, Mr. Pereira states "not selling abroad, orded a 20% increase in sales, compared to my objective is to attract the curious and, 2014". Hence, this innovative process

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sparked the consumers’ curiosity to the ad- riences, and sociability linked to wine culture. vantage of the organization. According to Salvado (2016, p.84), Wine tourism ecosystem considers three pil- 3 WINE TOURISM ECOSYSTEM lars aiming the development of a region: Ter- ritory / Landscape / Heritage, Wine Culture, Tourism can be an excellent way of re- and Tourism, supported by policies and fo- covering the memory and build a cultural cusing on endogenous resources. identity, guaranteeing the continuity of tradi- tions throughout the generations. To do so, 3.1 Territory / Landscape / Heritage: Matos (2013) suggests the creation of prox- imity networks through the training of local Territory is the material base of land- agents and the formulation of public policies scape. "Landscape" concept has a multiple with a strong strategic base. All these ele- meaning and it is intrinsically holistic: land- ments fit with ecosystem concept, combining scape as territory, as perception, as heritage, all stakeholders’ interests on community be- as resource. The European Landscape Con- half. Transposing this concept - ecosystem, to vention, adopted by the Council of Europe in wine tourism, it is possible to generate con- July 2000, defines landscape as "... a basic nectivity and cooperation between tourism component of European natural and cultural players and regions. heritage" (…) "A people perceived area by The European Charter on Oenotour- whose character is the result of the action ism (2006, p. 2) defined the concept as the and interaction of natural and / or human development of all tourism and leisure activ- factors". ities dedicated to the discovery and cultural Territory, Landscape, and Heritage knowledge of wine. One of ecosystem critical become inseparable concepts allowing the success factors is the implementation of co- simultaneous use of all the physical, biologi- operation strategies. Howley and Westering cal, and cultural components, making up the (2008) and Hall et al. (2000) address the ben- space-territory. Landscape is the footprint efits of cooperation adding the profits of of society. commercial networks. In the same line, Hall According to Kastenholz et al. (2014) et al. (2000), Inácio (2008) and Costa (2007) ORTE study, the potential of tourism experi- propose a holistic contribution, showing the ence in rural areas is largely dependent on important association of wine tourism with territories contexts and resources (material wine routes and cultural heritage. In recent and immaterial). There is a perceived need to times, tourism (tertiary sector) has been in- retain or attract people to rural areas, main- tegrated with other sectors (primary and sec- taining traditional aspects of rural lifestyle ondary), introducing a privileged union in the and agricultural production (Eusebio, Wine tourism ecosystem (tourism, territory, Kastenholz & Breda, 2016). Wine tourism is a and wine culture), emphasizing cultural acti- significant development factor in rural areas vities, material and immaterial tourism expe- and a cultural driver, with potential for creat-

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ing unique tourism experiences. tors can affect a memorable experience? Wil- liams (2001, p.9) considers wine tourism as "a 3.2 Wine Culture series of unique experiences, linked with re- gional environment, atmosphere, landscape, Wine is part of cultural heritage linked regional culture, and gastronomy." to history and have been an essential ele- The great challenge for managers is ment for economic, social, and cultural de- creating unique experiences in order to gain velopment in different wine-growing regions. loyal visitors (Cole & Chancellor, 2009, Saay- Wine culture has grown as a part of life, cul- man & van der Merwe, 2014). If tourism is ture, sociability, and diet since time imme- “experience”, Urry (1999) and Cooper and morial. As a cultural symbol, the importance Hall (2008) consider wine tourism as a “total of wine has changed over time, from a crucial experience”, because it includes a set of en- source of nutrition to a cultural element, dogenous (tangible and intangible) re- compatible with a healthy lifestyle. sources, regional attractions, and local sym- Promoting the Culture of Wine means bolic images and values. Kastenholz, et al. spreading regional authenticity and promote (2014) considers that experience contexts a product strongly linked to gastronomy, the should be adapted to the heterogeneous de- pleasures of taste, and the cultural heritage sires of the customers and markets. of the territory. According to Deloitte Euro- Kastenholz, et al. (2014) argues that Enotour- pean Enotourism Handbook - Vintur Project ism activity has contributed to the develop- (2005, p.4) "Without wine culture, wine tour- ment and maintenance of traditional eco- ism does not exist. The oenological-cultural nomic activities and to the benefit of local value defines the weight of the wine element and regional producers. as an axis of the tourist experience ". As According to TP Tourism Portugal stated by Santos and Cunha (2008), wines re- (2015, p.27), wine tourism is a very young gions have a strong association with territory, business in Portugal. The study revealed that having the capacity to promote the integra- 51% of entrepreneurs started their activities tion of tourism, products, and local develop- in the 2000s and 27% begun their activity in ment. 2010-2013. Wine tourism is also a comple- mentary activity to wine production, since 3.3 Tourism 50% the entrepreneurs are wine producers, 14% exploit viticulture and 7% tourism in ru- Goeldner and Ritchie (2006) argue ral areas. From the perspective of demand, that the tourism ecosystem involves organi- 24% of tourists have Enotourism as their zations/ industries/ activities networks, con- main traveling purpose (TP, 2015), to have necting various types of actors with different the following experiences: i) wine tasting; ii) values, roles, interests, capabilities, prac- wine purchase; iii) wineries and vineyards vis- tices, and a diversity of resources. What fac- iting; iv) learning about the local landscape,

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communities, and wineries owners; v) dis- In this sense, the territorial develop- cover the cultural heritage; vi) and under- ment is possible if it considers the endoge- stand the region landscape. nous attributes of each territory - cultural, environmental, landscape, infrastructure, or 3.4 Policy demography. According to Kuper (1999), dif- ferent cultures are socially transmitted and To ensure the success of the three reflect a set of ideas and values. Brunet enunciated pillars, the wine tourism ecosys- (1990) argues that in the space-territory so- tem must be based on tourism policies. cial relations between local actors give rise to Chuck (1997) defines policy as a high-level a sense of belonging in the constructed iden- plan that includes goals and procedures gen- tity. Sabourin (2002) defines local attributes erally found in formal statements such as as a joined and negotiated appreciation of laws and official documents. In Portugal, the the regional potential. Jollivet (1984) consid- PENT [National Strategic Tourism Plan (TP ers that local and external interactions have 2013, p.18)] emphasized wine and tourism the power to manifest itself permanently industries, warning for a diversified experi- from the collective memory. ence grounded on regional identity and local But local culture remains important in endogenous resources. the formation of the territory identity giving The European wine tourism policies the tourism sector specific contours. Tourism must comply with the heritage policies such is today the most important activity on a as the European Landscape Convention (De- global scale with a strong cultural dimension. cree No 4/2005 - European Landscape Con- This implies that policies must be seen in an vention, signed in Florence on 20 October integrated way, considering the needs and 2000). According to the ELC, all stakeholders potential of each territory (Matos, 2013). in the wine tourism territory should achieve The National Tourism Policy (PENT) the following objectives: i) to recognize land- established "strong regional policies" inte- scapes as essential components of people's grating in a coherent way the local differ- environment, expression of the diversity of ences and diversities. Tourism diagnosis their cultural and natural heritage and the must consider policies and strategic lines in basics of their identity; ii) to establish partici- harmony with international organizations pation procedures for the general public, lo- such as the World Tourism Organization and cal and regional authorities and other stake- the European Commission (tourism area). At holders in order to define and implement national and regional levels, tourism authori- landscape policies; iii) to integrate the land- ties involve the Secretary of State for Tour- scape into regional and urban planning poli- ism, the Turismo de Portugal (Tourism Portu- cies and also in cultural, environmental, agri- gal), the Commission for Coordination and cultural, social and economic policies, as well Regional Development of the North (CCDR as in any other policies with a direct or indi- Norte) and the municipality of Boticas. This rect landscape impact. region has great territorial diversity integrat-

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ing different natural and cultural landscapes developed the "Convention for the Safe- with potential for different tourism uses. guarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage", in 2003, aiming the valuation and safeguarding 4 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY of tangible and intangible heritage. Portugal followed this policy creating a Heritage Data The research process is a way of ap- Collection Kit, which was used in this re- plying knowledge, a planning process, and a search. Regarding the "Wine of the Dead" controlled creativity action (Hill & Hill 2000), from Boticas, we understand that the histor- considering the duality of aspects: contribu- ical / cultural (tangible and intangible) herit- tion to the research planning and knowledge age of this territory must be properly docu- enrichment. This work reflects a relevant mented, using PCI Matrix (Intangible Cultural documental review on Boticas geographical Heritage Matrix). and cultural space. After the construction of The Boticas’ “Wine of the Dead” the theoretical framework, a wine tourism Source Model: Matrix PCI (2006) - Intangible ecosystem literature survey was carried out, Cultural Heritage Matrix; we used the obser- consulting books and specialized magazines. vation as an interpretive research technique; Two qualitative methodological axes the territory was a direct source of data; the were used: PCI Matrix (Intangible Cultural result of an intensive field work, where the Heritage Matrix) used to make the inventory questions were studied without any inten- of Barroso land endogenous resources and tional manipulation of the researcher. The the 6 A's Buhalis framework for the analysis primary collection data was based on: 1. Her- of tourism destinations (2003) [1. Attractions itage observation (visit to Boticas), consider- (natural or artificial), 2. Accessibility 3. Amen- ing the following aspects: spatial (Territory: ities, 4. Accommodation, 5. Available Pack- Boticas); Observation made between August ages, and 6. Ancillary services (banks, tele- 2016 and March 2017; Observation work (fill- communications etc...)] to list the territory ing of inventory grid of intangible assets and endogenous resources and discover sustain- in loco observation of resources). 2. Docu- able development drivers. mentary research (consultation of libraries, newspaper articles, books). After the col- 4.1 PCI Matrix (Intangible Cultural Heritage) lection of data it was possible to complete the PCI Matrix (Frame 1). The United Nations Educational, Sci- entific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO)

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Frame 1 – Intangible Heritage Sheet: Wine of the Dead from Boticas (continue) Domain: Social practices, knowledge, and processes Category: Winemaking practice Denomination: Boticas Wine of the Dead Social context: The legend, tradition and conservation process of "Wine of the Dead" is perpetuated with pride and transmitted this immaterial patrimony of the town of Boticas through- out the world, with only one producer. Territorial context: The Boticas region is located in the northwestern part of Portugal, in Trás-os-Montes, District. Created under the administrative reform of 1836, integrated in old land of Barroso. Context timeframe: August 2016 to March 2017 Synthesis characterization: Wine process / wine aging method Characterization developed: Buried wine bottles: tradition since the 19th century Transmission context: Transmission state: active Description: practice Learning mode of the younger generations: Participation Mode of transmission: oral, written, practical Language(s): Portuguese; Transmission agent(s): Boticas municipality; Trás-os-Montes Regional Wine Commis- sion. Genesis/ History: The French Invasions originated the appearance of what is now Boticas true ex-libris - THE WINE OF THE DEAD. During the Second French Invasion (1808) and in the face of the advance of General Soult troops, Boticas population buried their most valuable assets, to safeguard the patrimony. The wine was buried in cellars floors under the kites and mills. Later, after French expulsion, Boticas inhabitants recovered their homes and other remaining belongings. When they dug up the wine, they thought it was spoiled. However, they discovered with pleasure that it was much tastier because it had acquired new properties. It was a wine with 10/ 11 degrees of alcohol content, pickled, and with some natural gas, that produced fermentation in the dark at con- stant temperature. Procedure Rationale: Associated Heritage: Intangible cultural heritage: The wine aging / conservation process Studies, methodologies and programs: Studies are being carried out on the existence, characteristics of the process in each parish of Boticas Municipality using the PCI Ma- trix methodology. Risks and threats: This work aimed to: evaluate traditional cultural expressions; social affirmation and community’s voice projection; individual groups of heritage holders, avoiding immaterial heritage forgetting. It will be proposed in Boticas historical recre- ations, involving French Invasions themes and an Intangible Cultural Heritage inven- tory. Providing specialized training in inventory and safeguard of the Intangible Cul- tural Heritage (CIP) will be crucial. Safeguard actions: Safeguards are measures that seek to ensure the viability and cul- tural sustainability of intangible cultural heritage in Boticas region. The identification, documentation, research, preservation, protection, promotion, promotion, transmis- sion, and revitalization of this heritage (wine of the dead) must be recognized in all aspects. With safeguarding objective, good practices actions will be proposed, includ- ing: places mapping and research process definition, bibliographical and audiovisual material production about the “wine of the dead”, educational actions, formation, actions training.

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Frame 1 – Intangible Heritage Sheet: Wine of the Dead from Boticas (conclusion) Domain: Social practices, knowledge and processes

Bibliography Asero, V. & Patti, S. (2009). From Wine Production to Wine Tourism Experience: the Case of Italy. American Association of Wine Economists, in http://www.wine-econom- ics.org/workingpapers/AAWE_WP52.pdf, access in 13-01-2015. Williams, W. & Kelly, J. (2001). Cultural Wine Tourists: Product Development Considerations for British Columbia’s Resident Wine Tourism Market. International Journal of Wine Mar- keting (13,3). U.K.: Emerald; 59-76. Hobsbawn, E. (1996). A revolução francesa. Paz e Terra. Documentation Documentation Written sources (Integrated Strategy for Territorial Development of Alto Tâmega, 2014, books, press articles, wine magazines) Photography (research production) Source: The author, based on MatrizPCI (2006) - Intangible Cultural Heritage Matrix

4.2 Six A’s Buhalis model build conditions for experience value crea- tion, involve the community in the transmis- The second methodological axis en- sion of their cultural values and implement compasses the 6 A's Buhalis Models aiming to planning policies to ensure heritage memory list the endogenous resources in Boticas, in and tourism sustainability. order to transform the ‘Wine of the Dead’ as a wine tourism attraction and sustainable de- 4.2.1 Attractions velopment driver of the territory. From the perspective of tourism, the main identity at- Without being exhaustive, the Boticas tributes that can transform the ‘Wine of the endogenous gastronomic resources are sev- Dead´ into a unique tourist event and of safe- eral: Protected Origin (PDO) products: Bar- guarding the Intangible Cultural Heritage of roso Honey and Barrosã Meat and Products Boticas have been approached in an inte- with Geographical Indication (IG): Boticas grated way, guaranteeing the preservation of Fumeiro and Bakery IG. this process so that it does not depend only on the memory of the people and remain ac- Natural endogenous resources: Natural Her- cessible to future generations. itage: Boticas Parque - Nature and Biodiver- The Buhalis's 6 A's model (2003) al- sity (http://www.boticasparque.pt/da- lows to list territory endogenous resources dos.php?ref=apresentacao-parque) that co- and discover the sustainable development vers Vilar, Codessoso and Beça. The fast con- drivers, such as: 1. Attractions (natural or ar- nection to the A24 highway gives good acces- tificial), 2. Accessibility (transportation sys- sibility, both in Spain () and in the tem), 3. Amenities (retailing and other tour- North of Portugal. The Park is crossed by the ism services), 4. Accommodation, 5. Available Beça River, which presents a vast riparian for- Packages (Tourist packages), and 6. Ancillary est. services (banks, telecommunications, etc...). Cultural Endogenous Resources - Cultural To support wine tourism proposals it will be Heritage (tangible and intangible): "Wine of important to consider the demand profile, the Dead" Historical repository

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(https://www.cm-boticas.pt/conteudos/de- (Beça); Castro da Torre or Torre de Seirrãos fault.php?id=1), Rural Museum of Boticas in Seirrãos (Beça); Castro do Brejo or (https : //www.cm-boticas.pt/conteudos/de- Cidadonha, in Bobadela; Castro de Nogueira fault.php? Id = 2), Nadir Afonso Arts Center; in Nogueira (Bobadela); Castro do Alto da The Interpretation Center of the PAVT - Ar- Coroa / Castro da Naia / Rio Mau, in cheological Park of Vale do Terva - Bobadela Codessoso; Castro do Poio, in Covas do - Boticas (it is located in the village of Barroso; Castro de Ervas Ruivas / Areais, in Bobadela - Boticas and serves as a place of Lousas (Dornelas); Castro de Gestosa or knowledge, providing a permanent exhibi- Souto da Lama, in Gestosa (Dornelas); Castro tion characterizing the PAVT territory, that do Cabeço in Granja; Castro do Mouril, in will allow the discovery of the cultural land- Pinho; Castro do Lesenho in Campos (S. scape of the upper valley of Terva River). This Salvador de Viveiro); Castro do Muro / Casas territory possesses a vast heritage, enriched dos Mouros in Sapiãos; Castro do Muro or by a great variety of archeologic findings Cerca, in Sapelos (Sapiãos); Castro de Sapelos from the Castros of Boticas. (Sapiãos); Alto do Crasto / Castelo dos Mouros, in Vilar; Mamoa da Pedra do Sono / Built Heritage - Communal ovens of Alturas Pedra do Sono; Mamoa de Chã do Seixal / do Barroso, Atilhó, Vilarinho Seco; Cruises, Chã do Seixal; Calçada Romana / Via; (…) mills, chapels [Nossa Sra. de Fátima (Alturas Festivals and Pilgrimages: S. do Barroso); Sampaio (Vilarinho Seco); Santa Sebastião, Alturas do Barroso and Atilhó; Margarida (Atilhó) chapels]; Santa Maria Santa Cruz, Vilarinho Seco; Sto António, Madalena (Alturas do Barroso) church; Alturas do Barroso and Atilhó; Santa Maria sundial (Vilarinho Seco; etc.). Madalena Alturas do Barroso; S. Paio, Vilarinho Seco; Santa Ana, Alturas do Archeological heritage - 24 castros were Barroso; Santa Margarida, Atilhó; Santa identified in Boticas territory, all near a river Bárbara, Atilhó; Santa Luzia, Atilhó; Santo or stream, and often at the confluence of André, and Nossa Sra. das Neves, Ardãos. water courses" (Santos Júnior et al., 1983: 402): Castro de Vilarinho Seco / Mena / 4.2.2 Accessibility Couto ou Côto dos Mouros (in Vilarinho Seco); Castro do Côto dos Corvos (in Alturas Boticas is served by a road network do Barroso); Castro de Cunhas (in Ardãos); with three highways (A23, A52, and A47), Castro da Gorda or Castro da Murada da which makes easy the North and Spanish ac- Gorda (in Ardãos); Castro da Malhó or cess (between 1 and 2.5 hours), as observed Amalhó (in Ardãos); Castro de Carvalhelhos In Figure 6. (Classified Heritage - IIP) in Carvalhelhos

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Figure 4 – Accessibility to Boticas

Source: http://cimat.pt/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/mapa.jpg

4.2.3 Amenities mountain tourism, health tourism, rural tour- ism and ecotourism, which in recent years Boticas territory has a set of ameni- have seen an increasing demand. ties such as public toilets, signage, traditional products stores, restaurants and cafes, tour- 4.2.5 Available Packages ist offices, accessible telecommunications, emergency services, among others, distrib- Available packages in the internet, uted unevenly by the villages in the region. such as: minube (http://www.minube.pt/o-que- Boticas is famous for its gastronomy, espe- ver/portugal/norte/boticas); TripAdvisor cially for "Barrosã" veal, but also for the fa- (https://www.tripadvisor.pt/Attractions-g2199643- mous "wine of the dead", which has been Activities-Boticas_Vila_Real_District_Northern_Portu known since the time of the French invasions. gal.html); Guia da cidade (https://www.guiada cidade.pt/pt/poi-boticas-15815); hotelriobeca 4.2.4 Accommodation (http://www.hotelriobeca.com/wp-content/uploads /2013/09/Visitar-no-Concelho-de-Boticas.pdf); Boticas territory has several accom- visitarportugal (https://www.visitarportugal.pt/ modation units (1 hostel, 1 inn, 3 rural tour- distritos/d-vila-real/c-boticas); IGOGO ism, 2 residential, 1 camping park, 4 moun- (http://www.igogo.pt/pontos-turisticos-boticas/), tain shelters), trying to respond to the differ- among others. ent types of tourism with special focus on

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4.2.6 Ancillary Services 5 CONCLUSIONS - INCORPORATE CUL- TURAL DYNAMICS IN WINE ROUTES Boticas, especially in urban centers has some services that can make life easier The OECD Tourism Committee has for tourists, such as car rental companies, ca- carried out an extensive research into the tering companies, entertainment: bars, role of culture and tourism in enhancing des- nightclubs, exchange services, insurance, tination attractiveness and competitiveness. laundry service and tourism marketing ser- In a rapidly changing world, with homoge- vices. This model explains that a destination nous tourism products, making cultural herit- should balance the strategic objectives of all age an anchor means guaranteeing diversity, stakeholders, as well as the sustainability of cultural pluralism, and access to culture (Ma- local resources. Destinations need to differ- son & Torre, 2000). Following this idea, the entiate their products and develop partner- region of Boticas is now actively developing ships between the public and private sectors tangible and intangible cultural assets as a in order to offer a unique tourism experi- means of developing comparative advantage ence. Taking advantage of the unique endog- in an increasingly competitive tourism mar- enous resources, such as “Wine of the Dead” ketplace, and to create local distinctiveness wine tourism experience, Boticas allows that in the face of globalization. The growing use territory to increase its competitiveness, visi- of culture and creativity to market destina- bility, and reinforcing local cooperation. tions is also adding to the pressure of differ- Today's destinations operate in com- entiating regional identities and images. plex ecosystems, integrating competition A growing range of cultural elements and cooperation (coopetition) strategies, are being employed to brand and market linking a great diversity of stakeholders. The Boticas. This region is associated with the coopetition approach to wine tourism is con- "wine of the dead", an increasingly important sidered an appropriate strategy, allowing the cultural asset as it creates distinctiveness in a integration of the primary (agriculture), sec- crowded global marketplace. The complexity ondary (wine industry) and tertiary (tourism) of both tourism and cultural sectors implies sectors, adding cultural landscape attributes new structures and projects involving public- and stakeholder synergies. The success of private partnerships and new strategic poli- Boticas wine tourism ecosystem lies in stake- cies to support collaboration, and mecha- holders’ harmony, in innovative tourism ex- nisms must be found to ensure that these periences (to obtain business competitive- two sectors can communicate effectively. ness) that promote the discovery and land- Culture and Wine tourism in Boticas have a scape interpretation associated with wine mutually beneficial relationship which can culture (to deliver authenticity), and foster strengthen the attractiveness and competi- regional development (to build sustainabil- tiveness of places, regions, and countries. ity). The benefits are not only for winegrowers or

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minube (http://www.minube.pt/o-que- gal.pt/distritos/d-vila-real/c-boticas) ver/portugal/norte/boticas); ______Information on the author

Museu Rural de Boticas in Josefina Olívia Salvado https://www.cm-boticas.pt/conteudos/de- PhD in Tourism (Aveiro University). Aveiro University fault.php?id=2 GOVCOPP (Governance, Competitiveness and Public Policy Research Unit). Email: [email protected]

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