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Trip to Holy Amarnath Cave – July 2013

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Trip to Holy Amarnath Cave – July 2013 Trip to Holy Amarnath Cave – July 2013 தனிச்சிவேம னித்தவேம தத்வேம இமயகிரிப் பனித்களாய் இனித்தம் ஸ்படிகமணி அமர்நாதா பார்என்ைனப் பார்என்ள் பார்உன்ைனப் பார்என்ற ேபர்கைணத் ேதறேத ெபமாேன அள்வாேய! O Shiva, the eternal alone, ever meditative, principle of all entia, at the apex of Himalaya, in icy form as the most revealing effulgence of Shivam, as Sri Amarnath Is it for me to see You, and see in You to see Me and see in Me, O infinitely merciful, expanse of sweet enlightenment, O Lord, let your compassion prevail! 1 Trip to Holy Amarnath Cave – July 2013 Every time I think of my previous trip to Mount Kailash, my joy finds no bounds! I have been thinking of making another trip, by the grace of God to perform the inner parikrama. But a different plan was on the cards. It was Sundar’s email in mid June 2013 that has changed my plan. Sundar, a friend of mine who lives in Boston, resonates many of my interests. With strong links in India – both for his business interests and spiritual pursuits, Sundar is a frequent traveller. His email this time was about a trip to the holy cave ‐ Amarnath. I took the offer at once; as I could not avail long leave from work, the option to take a shorter route – about 12 km of total trekking instead of the traditional 48 km route was ideal. Uma, the silent force behind of my pursuits, was quick to push me towards the decision; she suggested that I ask her brother/wife (Anna/Manni) from Bangalore and also my Sister (Akka) from Trichy to join me. That would be a great opportunity to share; I checked and all of them at once took up the offer; knowing their age and physical demands for the trip, I did have some fear but there was certain confidence too that they would all do just fine. That was it; the plan was hatched; we all would meet in Bangalore and fly to Srinagar for the trip. Amarnath yatra is the primary goal and sight‐seeing around Srinagar would be the bonus. Amarnath is part of the Himalayan range. Located roughly at 3960 meter above sea level, the holy cave is a large lime‐stone structure in which magnificent icy formation of Shiva Lingam exists during a short period every year by the naturally dripping glacier waters from the mountains. It is considered to be holy and of spiritual significance. Great Seers say that Mount Kailash in the North is the abode of Lord Shiva, Thiruvannamalai in the South is Lord Shiva Himself and at Amarnath, Shiva imparted the eternal truth or ‘Shiva rahasya’ to His escort Shakti. Every life‐form is only seeking this eternal truth. Our ordeals and efforts are only leading us towards the realization of this eternal truth. Paradoxically, the truth is within us and so the 2 process of finding is simply the shedding of our ignorance. In our Sanatana Dharma, infinite are the ways to reach that infinite potential. Yatra or pilgrimage is one such approach, in which destination is merely a symbolic goal, journey the penance and yatri the ultimate benefactor. Physically, there are three approaches to go to Amarnath. The traditional route starts at the base camp at Pahalgam. This is about 96 Km from Srinagar. From here, Amarnath cave is about 48 km., passing through some of the beautiful mountain ranges, glaciers and valleys. Instead of trekking all the way, there are also Helicopter services between Pahalgam and Panchtarani, the base camp from where the holy cave is only 6 km. Another route is to go Baltal, a small town 30 km from Sonamarg. Sonamarg is about 80 km from Srinagar. From Baltal the holy cave is only 14 km but trek is supposed to be steeper and more difficult. There are also helicopter services between Baltal and Panchtarani. So in any case, the trekking from Panchtarani is mandated. Both routes, from Pahalgam and Baltal merge at the place called ‘Sangam’, which means the last leg between Sangam and the holy cave would have more yatris on the trek. This part of the leg is also difficult. We decided to take the helicopter route via Baltal. I told Anna, Manni and Akka to start preparing for the trek. Any such high‐altitude travel requires good preparation, both mentally and physically. Brisk walk for an hour or so every day is mandatory. Such walking should be dedicated; One cannot equate such dedicated walking with that of going to shops or work etc. Everyone was obliging. Akka reported to me on a weekly basis that she was walking at good pace around the Rockfort temple in Trichy. Anna and Manni are usual walkers around the track within their condominium in Bangalore. Few other things are also needed to be checked prior to the travel. 3 Firstly there is a need for travel permit, known as ʹYatri Permit’; everyone who plans to trek from Baltal or Pahalgam to Amarnath must obtain the permit through specific application form with due payment at nominated agencies (branches of certain Indian banks). Without the permit, no one is allowed to start the trek at Baltal and Pahalgam. Luckily, for those who plan to take the helicopter trip, no such yatri permit is required. So, we ignored this formality. However, everyone must get a health certificate from a nominated medical practitioner. Again, there is a fixed format prescribed and there are specifically nominated doctors in the major cities of India, who should be approached to obtain the health certificate. The Indian government assures medical cover to the extent of 100,000 Rupees to any yatri and therefore, to minimize the risks, certain level of fitness is required and so the imposition of compulsory certificate. As Sundar and I are not resident in India, we obtained the certificate from our local medical counsel. That was fine. Akka, Anna and Manni had to undergo formal medical tests before obtaining the certificates in India. In some ways, it was good. For Akka, Anna and Manni such medical check‐up was timely and also reassuring their fitness for the travel. The checkups showed all clear, doubly boosting their confidence. We were all fit for the journey and eagerly awaited the day to take‐off! Anyone who plans to take the yatra must not ignore the health certificate requirements. It is a must. I saw a person at the Helipad at Baltal without the health certificate only to be flatly rejected! Also do not forget to take your photo‐identification; It can be Passport, Voter‐ Identification or Driving licence that are valid at the time of travel. 4 1st July Anna, Manni, Akka and I were at Bangalore Airport. Swathi, Uma’s sister who was returning to Pune after a short visit to Bangalore was with us. We parted from Swathi at the departure gate. I was still looking for Sundar to join us. He was coming from Sringeri after a couple of nights stay at Sri Sringeri Mutt; His plan was to meet a friend in Bangalore at dawn, and then join us at the airport. Suddenly my phone rang and it was Sundar who was trying to locate me. I just turned around to see him, just there at Gate 9. It took few moments for both of us to recognize each other. Last time, he had a saintly beard and a steely look of a distant traveller; this time, his head is shaven (tribute at Dharmasthala), beard is gone, only the usual smile unchanged. Perhaps I too looked different to him. Even before I could complete the quick introduction, he was feeling at home and everyone was talking to everyone else… so, there was a team, I thought. Spicejet – now owned by Sun Group of Kalanidhi Maran – was utterly efficient on board. The seats were neat, services swift and the flight was almost full. However, when we landed in Delhi, confusion struck. We needed to change aircraft to go to Srinagar but for some reason, the ground staff decided to take us for a long walk – across airport terminals from one gate to another under the scorching heat of Sun. Although it lasted only about 15 minutes or so, the heat was unbearable until we took refuge on board the flight to Srinagar. We thought by reaching Srinagar, we would escape the hot Sun. How foolish we were! When we landed in Srinagar, the temperature was 30 degree C. I looked at Anna and Manni and their bulging suitcase, which was full of woollen, caps, gloves etc. Surely this luggage would be kept intact till return! Srinagar airport is small but neat. We looked for our driver in vain. We took turns to go around the waiting escorts and read and re‐read the sign‐boards, every time carefully avoiding the eye‐contacts with the holders of the sign‐boards, out of 5 embarrassment. Nope…. the driver was not there. We called the travel agent in Delhi to inquire, which turned‐out to be a daily ritual through the entire trip as one way or the other there were complaints to make and help to be sought. After few panic driven calls, we located the local agent who introduced our driver Niaz Khan. Niaz was a stuffy, short fellow with a cheeky smile. He escorted us to the car, loaded our luggage on the roof of the car and drove us towards Dal Lake Gate 1.
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