INDEX

Introduction to Riga 4

Symbols of Riga 6

Architecture 16

Interesting Neighbourhoods 30

Nature 41

Art and Culture Institutions 52

Restaurants, Bars and Cafes 64

Fashion and Design 78

Active Lifestyle 87

Untraditional Viewpoints 94

Legendary Rigans 102 INTRODUCTION TO RIGA

Do you know what’s the one Historically, Riga has always been Today, Riga is a cradle for question about Riga visitors to a crossroads, a melting pot of innovative start-ups, and it prides the city most often ask? No, it’s various nations and cultures. But itself in an excellent music and not about the current economic the unique patina in this city of contemporary art scene, the Song situation or what time of year is more than 600,000 inhabitants Festival (which culminates in an best to visit Riga. In fact, it’s more has in large part also been formed open-air concert with 18,000 of an observation than a question: by the proximity of water – the choir singers) and a dynamic ”It feels like Riga is bubbling Daugava River and the Gulf of gastronomy milieu, in which local over with life and has become Riga. chefs compete in their search for something like the creative ”the flavour of Latvia” and thus epicentre of the Baltics. There’s The city has always lived in close bring an appreciative smile to the so much going on, especially in cooperation with nature, which face of many a gourmet traveller. culture. Why exactly Riga, and is still an important part of its why right now?” residents’ daily lives – the many Riga has a glamorous city centre public parks, forests, squares, as well as a hipster republic. This publication, which includes lakes and city canal. Riga has hills It’s possible to arrive in Riga 100 things, places, facts and and islands, as well as beaches. via all three classic means of emotions that define present-day Nesting birds and even beavers transportation – air, land and Riga and its unique vibe, is an call the city home. In addition, water – and the city can be answer to this question. You are considering the relatively observed both from above and holding in your hands the essence compactness of the city, many from a SUP board on the water. of Riga, in all of the diversity, of its sites are within walking Even though geographically untamedness and also historical distance: special urban pulse Riga can be considered a Nordic multi-layeredness that has made points and green relaxation zones, city, its multinational character the city what it is today. From a dynamic city atmosphere and makes it both adventurous symbols of the city, architectural the romance of rural idylls. In the and passionate. And yet, also masterpieces and cultural and springtime, the air in Riga is full of ambitious. Like any city full artistic spaces to various different the heady aroma of lilacs; in the of creative energy, it vibrates, neighbourhoods of the city, autumn, it exudes the melancholy pulsates and astonishes at any fashion, design, gastronomy, of falling yellow and red leaves; time of year. You are holding in your hands the sports activities and unusual in the winter, it sparkles with a ” scenic viewpoints. feeling of wonder after a fresh, essence of Riga, in all of the diversity, white layer of snow. untamedness and also historical multi- layeredness that has made the city what it is today.

4 5 ” SYMBOLS SILHOUETTE OF RIGA

OF RIGA The historical centre of Riga, which era. More recent architecture is has been granted UNESCO World found on the other side of the Heritage status, is best seen from river: the Z-Towers (123 and 117.5 the left bank of the Daugava River. meters) built in the last decade, the Its main features are the church Swedbank headquarters building towers concentrated in Old Riga – (121 meters) and also the National St. Peter’s Church, Riga Cathedral, Library of Latvia (66 metres), the 1 St. Jacob’s Cathedral, St. Mary form of which reflects the Old Magdalene Roman Catholic Church Riga silhouette, thereby creating and the Anglican Church – as well a dialogue between the two sides as Riga Castle, the Baroque tower of of the river. Other accents in the City Hall (Rātsnams) and the high- city’s silhouette include industrial rise Academy of Sciences building smokestacks and the water towers (108 metres). In addition to these built at the turn of the 20th century. classics, you’ll also see the Ministry of Agriculture building and the former Latvija (now Radisson Blu) hotel, both built during the Soviet

6 7 ”Although built in honour of soldiers killed in the Latvian War of Independence (1918–1920), today it is a national symbol of FREEDOM MONUMENT unity, independence and freedom.

” The Freedom Monument is a The demolition of the monument symbol that evokes awe in even was discussed during the Soviet era, the most sceptical of Latvians. but the famous Russian sculptor Although built in honour of soldiers (and student of Zāle) Vera Mukhina, who were killed in the Latvian who believed the monument to War of Independence (1918–1920), be of high artistic value, is credited today it is a national symbol of with saving it. Although the placing 2 unity, independence and freedom. of flowers and gathering in larger The project was initiated in 1920, groups at the foot of the monument and the winning design, titled was prohibited during the Soviet ”Shine Like a Star”, was created by occupation, it nevertheless retained Kārlis Zāle. The monument was its symbolic meaning. When the financed with donations from the National Awakening movement people of Latvia and unveiled in began in the late 1980s, the 1935. It is 42 metres tall and made Freedom Monument was the site of of grey and red granite, travertine, demonstrations marking important reinforced concrete and copper. dates in Latvian history. The first The composition consists of such demonstration took place on thirteen groups of sculptures and June 14, 1987, when members of the bas-reliefs depicting the history Helsinki-86 human rights defence and culture of Latvia. Above these group commemorated the victims sculptures rises a 19-metre-tall of mass deportations by the Soviet obelisk with the symbol of Freedom regime. The ceremonial guard at at the top – a young woman who is the monument was reinstated affectionately called Milda by the after the restoration of Latvian people. She holds three gold-plated independence. stars high in the air, which represent the three historical regions of the country: Vidzeme, Latgale and Kurzeme. The inscription at the foot of the monument reads ”For Homeland and Freedom”.

8 9 NOVEMBER 11 EMBANKMENT NATIONAL LIBRARY OF LATVIA

The November 11 Embankment city celebrates the shortest night remark that there will eventually (11. novembra krastmala), a street of the year. come a time when only the The new national library of Latvia, that at five o’clock in the morning dainas, or Latvian folk verses. that stretches right along the enemy will be pushed down. also referred to by locals as the on May 4 (the anniversary of the Barons designed the cabinet banks of the Daugava River in One of the most special events Gaismas pils (Castle of Light), was restoration of the independence himself, and it was made in central Riga, is one of the city’s associated with the November November 11, 1919, is symbolically for decades one of the most- of the Republic of Latvia), a ray 1880 in Moscow. He had up until main thoroughfares and has 11 Embankment is the annual considered just such a time. discussed construction projects of light shoots straight up into then kept his collected folklore been of strategic importance observance of Lāčplēsis Day On that day, the army of the in Riga. The need for a new the sky from the very top of the materials in cigar boxes, but he throughout its history. It has on November 11. Lāčplēsis newly independent Latvia was home for the country’s national library. As the sun rises on that transferred them to the new experienced times of flourishing is the Latvian Superman – victorious in its battle against archive of books arose already morning, it supposedly reflects cabinet when the number of as well as many tragic episodes. a mythological figure whose Pavel Bermondt-Avalov and his in the early 1990s, as soon as off the building and shines verses reached about 150,000. For example, along this street is source of incredible strength forces. In commemoration3 of 4Latvia regained its independence. perfectly vertically into the In all, the cabinet holds 217,996 a monument to the people who lies in his bearish ears. Even very this event, on Lāčplēsis Day the That’s when famous Latvian- heavens. four-line folk verses. It was added perished during a demonstration young children are familiar with country pays tribute to all the born architect Gunārs Birkerts to the UNESCO Memory of the on January 13, 1905 – it was here his story, because almost every soldiers who fought in the Latvian (1925– 2017) drew a sketch for just The library contains the original World register in 2001. that they were wounded and household has a copy of the War of Independence, and since such a building, which took more cabinet used by Krišjānis Barons, killed by gunfire, or chased onto Lāčplēsis epic written in the late 1988 people have been gathering than 20 years to come to fruition the best-known collector of the river ice and drowned. 19th century by the poet Andrejs on the banks of the Daugava on and sparked heated debates in Pumpurs, who based his work the evening of November 11 to society. Today, the November 11 on popular folk tales. Lāčplēsis’ light thousands and thousands of Embankment is the site of many purpose in life is to battle the candles. Some even make small But, since it opened to the city-wide festivities, including nation’s enemies, although in boats to send their candles out public in the spring of 2014, the annual celebration of Latvia’s Pumpurs’ version of the story onto the waters of the Daugava. the National Library of Latvia independence day on November he drowns in the Daugava River has become a significant 18, the Riga Festival, New Year’s together with the Black Knight. part of Riga’s cityscape and is Eve and Midsummer, when the The work ends, however, with a considered one of the city’s most vivid cultural landmarks of the 21st century. The Castle of Light is always full of life and energy; it hosts a variety of book exhibitions, and it has also become a sought-after venue for exhibitions of contemporary art. The building has a certain magic – those in the know say

10 11 LATVIAN NATIONAL THEATRE THE BLACK THRESHOLD AND THE MEMORIAL TO VICTIMS OF REPRESSION AT THE The Latvian National Theatre is where ravelins. In order to fortify the theatre TORŅAKALNS STATION the Republic of Latvia was proclaimed building, 1493 piles were driven into the on November 18, 1918. The Eclectic-style foundation. building, designed by Latvian architect It’s difficult to imagine that the depicts a steel door that stands areas were loaded onto cattle Augusts Reinbergs, has been deemed Over the many years of its existence, building on the corner of Brīvības ajar, symbolically separating cars and deported to Siberia on a national architectural and artistic one of the mainstays of the Latvian and Stabu streets, the Eclectic freedom from oppression, June 14, 1941, and March 23, 1949. monument. Construction began in 1899 National Theatre has been the style of which is so typical of humiliation and death. It is a Whole families were deported, and spawned a number of legends. popularising of Latvian theatrical works. Riga, is actually a silent witness to powerful reminder of the wrongs including women, children, While digging the foundation pit, It traditionally begins each season with Latvia’s years of Soviet occupation committed against thousands of infants and the elderly – in all workers discovered quicksand and also a new production of a work by a Latvian and has literally been soaked in innocent people who were forced more than 50,000 people. Most well-preserved, 300-year-old piles from author. 5 6blood. Here the Museum of the to cross the dark threshold of this of them died either during the a Swedish-built system of defensive Occupation of Latvia set up the building into the KGB’s cellars, journey or in Siberia from hunger, Black Threshold, a memorial to where they were tortured to illness and the cold. Today, one victims of communist terror. The death. of the original cattle cars and building itself is known locally a commemorative stone stand as the Corner House, and during The Torņakalns railway station next to the station building as a the Soviet era it served as the is another witness to very tragic bitter, existential reminder of this headquarters for the Cheka, or events in Latvia’s history. This is tragedy. KGB. Created by Latvian sculptor the place from where thousands Gleb Panteleyev, the memorial of Rigans and residents of nearby

LATVIAN SONG AND DANCE FESTIVAL

The Latvian Song and Dance bringing the nation together. Festival is a cultural phenomenon Currently, the festivals average and the largest cultural event 30,000 participants from across in the country. The first such the country. The majority are festival took place in 1873, when members of choirs and dance present-day Latvia was still groups, but many brass bands, a part of the Russian Empire. folklore groups, ethnographic Twenty-five song festivals have ensembles, country bands, kokle been organised since then, ensembles, amateur theatre and they have become some troupes and foreign guests also of the most important events take part. 12 7 13 CEMETERY CULTURE STREET ART

Latvians have a special monuments are washed and Latvians organise ”candle Even though street art in Riga both from Latvia – used 1500 cans Kiwie often depicts a special relationship with the deceased, decorated with fresh bouquets of evenings”, or, to use the church’s is still in its infancy, it’s already of spray paint to complete the animal-like character in his which is most apparent at the summer flowers. On the Sunday terminology, they commemorate becoming an exciting new work of art. artwork, and this is one of the so-called cemetery celebrations of the celebration, relatives All Souls’ Day. On this evening, canvas. Both firewalls and roofs most recognisable images in held throughout the country on from near and far, from city and they visit their family graves and are being painted, and the most Saule, Pērkons, Daugava is the Riga’s street art. The best example Sundays between June and the country, meet at their family place small evergreen wreaths noticeable example to date is the largest piece of street art in the can be seen on the building end of August. graves. After honouring their and candles next to the graves of 800-square-metre work titled Baltic States and features the at 13 Alauksta Street. Rudens deceased, they often go to have their loved ones. On this evening, Saule, Pērkons, Daugava (Sun, red-and-white Lielvārde sash, a Stencil’s best-known work in Riga A cemetery celebration is a social lunch together or otherwise mark all of Riga’s cemeteries are alight Thunder, Daugava) on the wall at symbol of Latvian identity. The is the 8x8-metre portrait of a event, a local ritual. The cemetery the reunion of family members. with thousands of small candles, 46 Tallinas Street. Created during title refers to a song for choir by woman at 6 Priežu Street in the is spruced up several days before and to passers-by the scene looks a street art festival in 2014, the the same name. Sarkandaugava district. the celebration: the sand is During the darker months of at once strange8 and surreal, but 10artists – Kiwie and Rudens Stencil, raked, often creating symmetrical autumn (in Riga, it’s the last also very touching. designs; the headstones and Sunday before Advent begins),

RIGA BLACK BALSAM

Riga Black Balsam (Rīgas was developed in the mid-18th Riga. To this day, Rigans take the Melnais balzams) is the most century by Rigan pharmacist and drink as a dose of ”medicine” on popular of Latvian drinks. blacksmith Abraham Kunze. It has dark autumn evenings or at the Having survived through many always been kept in oak barrels first sign of a cold. Over the years, different eras without losing any and later filled into ceramic a number of flavour variations of its authenticity, the unique bottles. According to legend, have been introduced to the liqueur is made from an infusion Russian Empress Catherine the market, but the liqueur’s original of 24 different roots, leaves, Great was cured with Riga Black recipe is still the most popular. 9flowers and buds. The recipe Balsam after falling ill on a visit to 14 15 MEDIEVAL RIGA

Riga is full of many vivid reminders of order to accommodate firearms. The its medieval past. One of these is the pointy roof was added only in the 19th ARCHITECTURE defensive wall that once surrounded century. the city. It was 1.30 metres thick and 9 metres high and originally had a Riga Castle, on the right bank of fortified tower every 70–120 metres. the Daugava River, is the most Some of these towers (28 in total) predominant structure in Riga’s Old were round, others semicircular, and Town and one of the largest medieval still others were rectangular. One of castles in Latvia. It was built in the the earliest sections of the fortified late 1340s, destroyed in 1484 and 11wall still stands today, in Jāņa Sēta rebuilt anew in 1515. The castle has (John’s Courtyard). The stone wall a long and interesting history – for was extended in the 13th century, as many centuries it served as the centre the town expanded, and a fragment of power, controlling a sometimes of this slightly newer section is still larger, sometimes smaller territory. visible on Trokšņu Street. And it continues this purpose today, as the seat of the President of Latvia. One of the city’s main pillars of The castle has been reconstructed defence was the Powder Tower, numerous times, and over the originally called the Sand Tower. Today centuries it has lost – but also it is all that remains of a complex that gained – many elements of artistic once guarded the entrance to the city and architectural significance. In from the east. Back then, however, its current form, Riga Castle has six the Powder Tower, which dates to towers. The Tower of the Holy Spirit, the year 1330, looked completely the Lead Tower, the Pipera Tower and different; it was neither round nor the North Tower mark the structure’s enclosed, as it is today. It originally corners; the other two towers are had a rectangular form, and later it named the Bay (Erker) Tower and the was horseshoe-shaped. The tower Tower of the Three Stars. only took on its current form in the 16th century, when it was rebuilt in

16 17 ART NOUVEAU

Art Nouveau – that most style at 23 Tallinas Street. Art architects developed the National noticeable of all architecture Nouveau is the basis on which Romantic style, which is rooted styles in Riga – marks an Riga’s historical centre was listed in an understanding of local extraordinary period of as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. architectural forms. It is encoded economic growth that the city with a Northern constancy experienced at the turn of the The Kamintius House apartment and stability, manifested in 20th century. Approximately 800 building at 23 Tallinnas Street robust forms and relatively 12of the city’s buildings feature showcases the start of a rough textures. While architect Art Nouveau façades, which collaboration of two Art Nouveau Mikhail Eisenstein created include characteristic motifs virtuosos, Konstantīns Pēkšēns fireworks with his virtuosic play such as stylised plants, floral (1859–1928) and Eižens Laube of decorative forms, Laube’s and marine life, screaming and (1880–1967). This partnership soon designs were reserved and noble laughing masks, and sculptures flourished, resulting in hundreds yet articulated with effect in depicting the female form, an of construction projects in Riga. their façade finishes, integrating eternal symbol of beauty. The Pēkšēns was the most multi- ethnographic motifs in various style is located everywhere, from faceted architect in the history shades of neutral grey. The most the wooden architecture of the of Latvian architecture, and, striking examples of this style can Mežaparks suburb to the many as an employee in Pēkšēns’ be found at 15/17 Tērbatas Street impressive masonry buildings in office, Laube demonstrated his (originally the Atis Ķeniņš School) Riga’s Quiet Centre (Alberta iela innovative talents in designing a and the outstanding National and Strēlnieku iela), and even on national architecture inspired by Romantic-style apartment the lone representative of this the Art Nouveau style. Thus, both building at 47 Brīvības Street.

”Art Nouveau is the basis on which Riga’s historical centre was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

18 ” 19 PORTALS AND ORNAMENTAL RIGA CATHEDRAL

RELIEFS Riga Cathedral has no match Baroque ornamentation that in terms of its longevity, can still be seen today. Over the centuries, Riga’s Mary. Plettenberg, as the ruler of prominent architects of the day, size and magnificence. It architecture has amassed a that land, ushered in a new era and his work can still be seen at 9 is the only cathedral-style The cathedral tower has rich variety of building façades both economically and spiritually Pils Street, 5 Smilšu Street and 17 church and cathedral chapter a very unique feature – a saturated with many symbolic with the help of the Reformation. Šķūņu Street. monastery complex in the wooden double-spiral motifs. Several 17th-century Baroque The many examples of Art Baltic States. Construction staircase. There are only The Late Gothic reliefs of the buildings in Riga’s Old Town Nouveau architecture in Riga lasted throughout the whole two such staircases in the Madonna and Child and Master feature ornate stone portals, for let visitors appreciate a variety of the 13th century, and the world, and both were made of the Livonian Order Wolter example, the Rheuttern (Reiterna) of ornamentation styles. For grand building was rebuilt according to drawings by von Plettenberg on the main House and the Swedish-Baroque13 example, the buildings designed 14and expanded a number Leonardo da Vinci. courtyard portal of the Riga Dannenstern House, both on by Konstantīns Pēkšēns at 3 and of times over the next few Castle are particularly unique and Mārstaļu Street. 13 Rūpniecības Street and 13 centuries. Although the church was built valuable. The sculptures depict In the 18th century, when Elizabetes Street in the so-called on a hillock, its foundation two symbols – a spiritual leader Classicism entered architecture, Quiet Centre neighbourhood In 1547, the Riga Cathedral currently lies a few metres and a secular leader – of the landlords paid particular feature ethnographic and church spire was destroyed below street level. Due to Christianisation of Prussia and attention to the portal of a ornamental reliefs, while the by fire, and the effects of flooding of the Daugava River, Livonia. When present-day Latvia building, designing it to form a decoration on the building at 14 the tragedy can still be seen every year the road level and Estonia were Christianised unified composition together Vīlandes Street has a bee motif, today – during the fire the around the church had to in the Middle Ages, they were with the central window and a symbol of industriousness and tower acted like a huge be raised. Still, water often named Terra Mariana (Mary’s balcony above it. Christoph resourcefulness. chimney, and therefore some flooded into the church. Land) in honour of the Virgin Haberland was one of the most of the walls appear to be In the spring of 1709, for covered with a layer of glass. example, it was possible to go The tower was rebuilt at fishing inside the church, and the end of the 16th century, later a memorial plaque was and it was constructed from affixed to the interior wall the ground up with a lattice showing the water level at of dense wood to provide that time. ”The Late Gothic reliefs of the Madonna and support for the 140-metre Child and Master of the Livonian Order Wolter von pyramid-shaped church spire One of the most impressive Plettenberg on the main courtyard portal of the to withstand the force of the features of the church today wind. At the time it was one is the moment when the Riga Castle are particularly unique and valuable. of the tallest structures of interior lighting is switched on The sculptures depict two symbols – a spiritual its kind in the world. In the at dusk and the extraordinary leader and a secular leader – of the Christianisation mid-18th century the church stained glass windows reveal of Prussia and Livonia. spire was torn down and a themselves when viewed new, lower structure was from Cathedral Square. built; this is the tower with 20 ” 21 ST. PETER’S CHURCH

At a height of 123 metres, the church Gothic monument in Riga and one spire of St. Peter’s Church in Riga of the most beautiful of its kind towers over all the other church in the Baltics. The church contains spires in Riga and is a dominant the exposed brick walls, large and integral part of the city skyline. lancet arch windows and rosettes The tower has been restored to its that are characteristic of Northern original 17th century form, having Gothic architecture. The church was 15been destroyed by fire after a substantially rebuilt and extended lightning strike in 1721 (lightning has in the 15th century. The 136-metre- struck the St. Peter’s Church tower a tall bell tower was constructed total of six times). at that time, and at the top of the steeple was a sphere that served The church is dedicated to St. as a document depository as well Peter, the patron of the city, who is as the symbolic Riga rooster. The depicted on the church’s weather rooster atop the tower today is the vanes holding the key to the city in seventh such rooster and an exact his hand. This church, built in the replica of the previous one. 13th century, is the most notable

”The church is dedicated to St. Peter, the patron of the city, who is depicted on the church’s weather vanes holding the key to the city in his hand. This church, built in the 13th century, is the most notable Gothic monument in Riga and one of the most beautiful of its kind in the Baltics.

22 ” 23 WATER TOWERS WOODEN ARCHITECTURE

A particular feature of the city of Riga is its Riga can be regarded as a city chalet and Art Nouveau, as well As the result of the work of the impressive industrial heritage, including made of wood, and this is a rarity as simple wooden structures and Koka Rīga (Wooden Riga) wooden factory chimneys and the unique water among European cities. There is wooden sheds. architecture restoration centre, towers built around the turn of the 20th more wooden architecture here Nowadays much of the wooden the intersection at Lienes and century. In fact, it would be difficult to find than anywhere else – in total architecture so characteristic of Krāsotāju streets in Grīziņkalns, similar towers in any other European city. around 4000 wooden buildings. Riga is undergoing painstaking on the right bank of the Daugava Today, however, they no longer serve their The most notable collections of restoration. One of the most River, has also experienced a original purpose and have instead become wooden buildings can be found in notable stories regarding the rebirth. Superb examples of distinctive historical monuments. It would the Grīziņkalns district of the city restoration of wooden structures wooden architecture can be even be worth planning a unique water- and across the river in Pārdaugava, can be seen in Pārdaugava, along found on Krāsotāju, Vārnu and tower16 tour of the city. 17especially Ķīpsala Island and Kalnciema Street on either side Jāņa Asara streets as well as in the Kalnciema Street. In Pārdaugava, of the intersection with Melnsila area near the intersection of Čaka Such a tour could begin with the oldest of the construction of wooden Street. By scrutinising archival and Matīsa streets. An example is the city’s four water towers, the ”twin” giants buildings began in the 17th century documents, blueprints and the wooden structure at 2a Jāņa built in 1896 and 1897 and located at the and continued until the start of the project sketches, the renovators Asara Street, which is built in the end of Matīsa Street. Then continue on to Second World War. managed to reconstruct the style of a Swiss chalet, a style Riga’s largest water tower, which was built The oldest wooden buildings unique aura of this corner of the that is mostly seen in the classy in 1912 in the Čiekurkalns neighbourhood still standing today were built city, enjoyed today by Rigans who suburb of Mežaparks. and reflects the Art Nouveau architectural in the 18th century. The styles regularly attend markets and style, albeit with a Baroque-style roof. End represented include Baroque, cultural events organised in this your tour at the Āgenskalns water tower Classicism, Historicism, Swiss quarter. on Alīses Street. This beauty, designed in 1910 by Riga’s most famous architect, Wilhelm Bockslaff, underwent a complex reconstruction in 1937, when the top of the tower was lifted with jacks and the tower’s ”leg” was heightened by 7.5 metres. The tower is now 40 metres high. The top of the main portal is decorated with a large Riga coat of arms in the Art Deco style – a real piece of 20th-century avantgarde that can surprise passers-by still today. The interior of the tower is just as impressive as the exterior, with the monstrous constructions and metal rivets bringing to mind Captain Nemo’s submarine.

24Wikimedia Commons/ CC BY SA 4.0 25 SOVIET SLEEPING DISTRICTS UNIVERSITY OF LATVIA

The buildings in Riga’s sleeping were built simultaneously in Riga, but also in the whole of districts – often referred to as throughout the whole Soviet Latvia. The building stretches ”boxes” due to the grey concrete Union, from Leningrad to for over half a kilometre; it has 11 panels and dull-toned white Belgorod, Siberia and Tashkent. stairwells and 404 apartments. A calcium silicate bricks from which Yet, it is possible to feel a certain similar ”Wall of China” consisting they’re made – are much criticised sense of individual character of multi-modular nine-storey for their lack of aesthetic appeal. in the seemingly hopeless buildings can be found in However, these mass-produced uniformity of the buildings, and Purvciems, Riga’s largest suburb. residential buildings built in the the world that unfolds in the The grey concrete hulk stretches Soviet era are an integral part of cross-section of a single building for a whole block on Dzelzavas Riga. The multi-level residential can be quite intriguing. Street and is speckled with a apartments on the outskirts 18colourful mosaic of balconies, 19 of the city were primarily built There’s a striking building each outfitted and decorated between 1950 and 1990 and are a on Ozolciema Street in the according to the different tastes striking legacy of that era. Ziepniekkalns suburb of Riga – the of its residents. The largest structure on the the ensemble. The central part of of the network of footpaths Series 119 construction is known Riga Boulevard Circle is the the building features ornamental provides glimpses of the old Identical, or only slightly locally as the ”Wall of China”. It main building of the University cast-iron mouldings depicting the bastion. modified, construction projects is not only the longest building of Latvia on Raiņa Boulevard. coats of arms of the former Baltic This monumental yellow brick provinces: Vidzeme, Kurzeme and The interior of the university, with building is, incidentally, also Estonia. Above these are reliefs its large halls and antique wooden the oldest university building symbolising the nine fields of stairways that still have the scent in Latvia; its construction was technical science that were offered of wood, is just as elegant as the begun in 1866. It was designed by for study at the Riga Polytechnic façade of the building. Gustav Hilbig and in accordance (the former name of the University with the traditions related to of Latvia) at that time: physics, An intriguing anomaly in the the construction of teaching chemistry, mechanics, commerce, building is the legendary institutions at that time. The engineering, architecture, punishment cell, which instilled impressive ensemble of buildings agriculture, land surveying and fear in students for not returning occupying the entire block navigation. books on time or other encircled by four streets – Raiņa transgressions. The punishment Boulevard, Merķeļa, Inženieru The university’s astronomical was solitary confinement in the and Arhitektu streets – was observatory provides an narrow space for a few days. This constructed in three stages, a interesting vertical emphasis is why the greyish white walls process that took approximately to the central projection of the were soon covered right up to the forty years. building. The tower offers a ceiling with not only signatures 360-degree view, with Vērmanes but also drawings and longer Neo-Romantic, Renaissance and Park on one side and the gardens memoirs – from thoughts on Byzantine architectural styles can by the canal on the other. From university lecturers to memories be found in the oldest part of this vantage point the structure of past girlfriends 26 27 RIGA CHURCH OF JESUS

Several unique wooden churches in Latvia remain almost completely unaltered since their time of construction, thereby embodying an almost magical aura of history. Some of these churches can be found in Riga and are linked with the architect Christian Friedrich Breitkreutz.

One of Breitkreutz’s wooden gems is the Riga Church of Jesus (18 Elijas iela), built in 1822. It is the 20 largest Late Classicism-style wooden construction in Latvia and is also considered one of the largest wooden churches in Europe. It is an eight- cornered building with simplified, symmetrical, Empire-style architectural shapes and exhibiting a characteristically strict and solemn monumentality. The interior of the building is covered by a large cupola, 20 metres in diameter, which is perched on 16 wooden columns grouped in pairs. The grandeur of the main façade is emphasised by a portico with four Ionic columns, while the 27-metre-tall bell tower dominates the surrounding skyline and stresses the importance of the building. All constructions in the church are secured with wooden pegs, which ensure the 19th-century structure’s stability even today.

”It is an eight-cornered building with simplified, symmetrical, Empire- style architectural shapes and exhibiting a characteristically strict and solemn monumentality. 28 ” 29 INTERESTING BERGA BAZĀRS

Berga Bazārs is like a small, self- Berga Bazārs was built over a many different ethnicities. Berga sufficient city within a city. It is very period of 13 years (1887–1900) and Bazārs later suffered considerable NEIGHBOURHOODS centrally located and also within is the largest and only shopping damage during the two world the borders of Riga’s UNESCO- passage of its kind in Riga. It has wars and the Soviet era. But today, protected historical city centre. a patina all its own, the result of thanks to Bergs’ descendants, it The network of small pedestrian a colourful and varied history. In has been restored to its former streets hidden from the larger the late 19th century this part of form and is one of the most thoroughfares around it harbours Riga – between Marijas, Elizabetes exciting examples of Riga’s a kind of secret, inner life of shops, and Dzirnavu streets – was still 21st-century pride. In addition to 21cafés and arcades. One of the city’s considered the outskirts of the stores and cafés, Berga Bazārs most unique architectural projects, city and a relatively undeveloped is also home to the Hotel Bergs, Berga Bazārs was built in the late quarter with allotment gardens beside which stands a fountain 19th century by local businessman and even a cabbage field nearby. created by the well-known and urban developer Kristaps But when the ”bazaar” opened in Latvian artist Ilmārs Blumbergs. Bergs in collaboration with a young 1900, it quickly became a centre architect named Konstantīns of activity, attracting both urban Pēkšēns. and rural dwellers and people of

In the late 19th century this part of ” Berga Bazārs is also home to Riga – between Marijas, Elizabetes and ” Dzirnavu streets – was still considered the Hotel Bergs, beside which stands the outskirts of the city and a relatively a fountain created by the well-known undeveloped quarter with allotment gardens Latvian artist Ilmārs Blumbergs. and even a cabbage field nearby. 30 ” ” 31 KALNCIEMA QUARTER MEŽAPARKS

The many wooden buildings energy in creating an environment at the intersection of Kalnciema At the height of the industrial residences to survive to the Vismāras, Dancigas... Later, the along Kalnciema Street in the like none other. The buildings and Melnsila streets has become revolution, when European cities present day is Grāves Estate in Latvian intelligentsia also began Pārdaugava district of Riga – are home to an exclusive design very popular in recent years. began to encounter some of Saules Dārzs. to buy up plots, and some of but especially those around salon, architecture offices, cafés Every Saturday, local farmers the first problems associated these families have managed the intersection with Melnsila and other creative businesses. and artisans arrive here to sell with the urban phenomenon – By the time the First World War to retain ownership of their Street – are part of one of the The neighbourhood also enjoys their produce and wares – the such as poor air quality and lack began, 108 villas had already properties to the present day. best-known and most creative an active cultural life, with regular atmosphere is colourful, the of sunshine – more and more been built in Mežaparks. In areas of the city. These buildings concerts, art exhibitions and emotions are genuine, and air is thought was put into creating the 1920s and 1930s another As befits a ”town in a forest”, have been carefully restored, and poetry readings. The weekly full of enticing aromas, freshness a healthy urban environment. 250 single-family homes were Mežaparks is special for its their owners have invested much farmer’s market that takes place and energy. One of the first garden cities in added to the colony. Most of the unhurried pace of life. In winter, 22 23Europe was developed in Riga in houses in Mežaparks were built when ice and slush cover the 1901. It was an avantgarde project in the rational Art Nouveau style, streets of central Riga, Mežaparks in a pine forest on the banks of although various ”neo” styles enjoys fluffy, white snowbanks Ķīšezers Lake quite near the city from previous eras can also be and silence. In the summer, it centre. Until then, this area (which found in the architecture. The offers a breath of refreshing, is now called Mežaparks, but was first people to afford private aromatic air. On Sundays you’ll formerly known as Ķeizarmežs) homes in Mežaparks were the find the park being enjoyed by was a pristine lakeside pine forest German intelligentsia, which is families with children heading to with only a few country estates. reflected in the German names the local zoo. The only one of these summer of many streets: Štrālzundes,

”Most of the houses in Mežaparks were built in the rational Art Nouveau style, although various ”neo” styles from previous eras can also be found in the architecture.

32 ” 33 SKANSTE – RIGA’S MODERN CENTRE

According to an old legend, of its developers is to make this parks, have also already been there’s a spirit that lives in the area a showcase of 21st-century built or are planned for Skanste, Daugava River, and every once in Riga. Skanste is set to be the which make this the most rapidly a while it emerges from the water home of Riga’s conference and growing area of Riga. Skanste and asks the same question: concert centre, which will join is located on the right bank of ”Is Riga completed?” If it ever the already existing Elektrum the Daugava River. The main receives a positive answer, it is Olympic Sports Centre and Arena thoroughfare is Skanstes Street, said that the city will sink into Riga as well as the Sporta 2 art and the district is bordered by the river. But there’s no need to and technology quarter housing Pulkveža Brieža, Hanzas and worry. Riga continues to evolve the kim? contemporary art centre Vesetas streets as well as Ganību all the time. Although still in its and TechHub, a space for new24 Dambis and the railway. infancy, it is assumed that the technology startups. Several Skanste district will become the modern apartment and office new centre of the city; the goal complexes, as well as three public

MIERA STREET REPUBLIC

Even though ”Peace Street” (Miera In the mornings, Miera Street Bean Roastery oasis for coffee iela in Latvian) was named after wakes up slowly. But once lovers, the Mierā bakery famous the road established here in the it’s awake, the atmosphere is for its harmony and homemade mid-19th century that led to the enthusiastic. This is a place for cakes, the Mr. Page bookstore, new city cemetery, today it has all sorts of people who ”work and the Astronauts store made an existential U-turn and with their hands” – baking cakes, featuring 20th-century furniture, bubbles with life and the energy sewing, cooking healthy food, lamps and home accessories. of various creative initiatives. growing, fixing, recycling, etc. Miera Street is the epicentre of In other words, this is a street The tram that rolls along Miera Miera Street is the epicentre of Riga’s Riga’s hipster culture and has of cafés, small shops run by Street gives the neighbourhood ” hipster culture and has even been recognised even been recognised by passionate owners, workshops a special charm, and a special by Skyscanner as the hippest neighbourhood Skyscanner as the hippest and other creative initiatives. aroma is provided by the Laima 25 in the world. neighbourhood in the world. Among the best-known residents confectionery’s chocolate on this street are the M50 design, museum. But the area’s original peaceful clothing and accessory store, the feeling has not been lost, either. Walters un Grapa bar, the Rocket 34 ” 35 MOSCOW DISTRICT PĀRDAUGAVA

The historically Russian and packs of dogs. The Moscow visitors a look back into that Riga’s left bank, known as courtyards between old wooden the entire block between Meža, Jewish district of Riga – called District is also the part of Riga time, with actual witnesses in the Pārdaugava (literally, ”across the buildings, or lose yourself in the Tirgus and Puķu streets. Built in Maskavas forštate in Latvian, or where you’ll find houses of form of old buildings, original Daugava”), has always cardinally meditative romance of the public the Gothic Eclectic style, it was Maskačka in the local slang – worship of five different religions cobblestones and other elements differed from the historical parks. designed by Latvian architect begins right behind the Central and denominations. Among them of the ghetto’s infrastructure. centre of the city. Due to the Konstantīns Pēkšēns. Market. But you’ll need to venture is the Grebenshchikov Church, the Daugava River, which forms the Practically every street in further to experience it in full. world’s largest Old Believer house But change is also coming to the border between these two halves, Pārdaugava has its own unique Pārdaugava is ideal for wanderers There you’ll encounter wonderful of worship. Moscow District. Some buildings Pārdaugava developed at a character and story. For example, and those who wish to see ”a wooden architecture from the and streets have been renovated different pace than the other side a stroll along Mazā Nometņu different Riga” in concentrated 19th century and the turn of the In 1941, a part of the Moscow in recent years, and examples of of the river, and in many places it Street becomes a lesson in the form, right on the other side of 20th century, mysterious and District was sectioned off and26 modern architecture have also 28still retains the charm of a small history of architecture, where the Daugava River. It’s a district time-worn courtyards, graffiti, turned into a Jewish ghetto. popped up here and there. town. Perhaps slightly time-worn, eclecticism lives next to the that for centuries watched as Riga dicey characters, homeless Today, the Riga Ghetto and but nevertheless fascinating. rationalism of the 1920s-1930s developed, until it became a part communes and stray (but friendly) Latvian Holocaust Museum gives Here you can still discover small and Art Nouveau stands next to of Riga itself. streets forgotten by time and classicism, the style it rejected. where automobiles don’t even Nearby, Meža Street prides itself really venture, peek into the in the building that takes up BOLDERĀJA

Formerly a separate, independent close link with water is reflected Even though Bolderāja became village and later a proletariat in the local streets named after, a part of Riga only in the 1920s, district of Riga, Bolderāja still for example, cod, captains, sailors, it has long played a role in the feels like a republic unto itself. fog and the colour blue. Bolderāja city’s history. The most vivid There is a completely different is also known for its white sand testimony of its importance is the ”Practically every street in Pārdaugava feeling of physical reality here, beach, pines, meadows and Daugavgrīva Fortress, built in the has its own unique character and story. For and therefore even Rigans see eclectic mix of architecture. 17th century by the Swedes. The example, a stroll along Mazā Nometņu Street heading to Bolderāja as a kind of 19th-century wooden houses and fortress was once a significant becomes a lesson in the history of architecture, journey. Bolderāja is bordered by once-stately masonry buildings part of Riga’s defence system. where eclecticism lives next to the rationalism the Buļļupe River, Hapaka Ditch are interspersed with examples of the 1920s -1930s and Art Nouveau stands and the Loču Canal as well as of Brutalist-style multi-storey 27 next to classicism, the style it rejected. the Daugava River, which flows apartment buildings from the into the Baltic Sea only a couple Soviet period. of kilometres away. The district’s 36 ” 37 ĶĪPSALA

As you leave the glamour of the originally inhabited by fishermen additions; others have even been boulevards in central Riga and and bargemen. These trades moved here from central Riga cross Vanšu Bridge, you enter a proved profitable, and in the late in order to protect them from completely different world. The 19th century the most prosperous demolition. idyllic aura of Ķīpsala Island is of the island’s residents built best expressed by the narrow two-storey wooden houses. Ķīpsala is also home to the cobbled street that runs right Several of them have now been Ķīpsala International Exhibition 29along the banks of the Daugava restored and form a part of Centre international exhibition River. Apart from a few prominent Riga’s unique heritage of wooden complex (the largest of its kind newcomers, the street is lined architecture, which has even been in the Baltics), the Press Building with old wooden buildings, and officially recognised by UNESCO. (a relic from the Soviet era) and the sea birds and fresh smell Many of the buildings were the Swedbank headquarters, also of water are all around. Ķīpsala restored to their original form, referred to as the Sun Rock. is about 300 years old and was while some have contemporary

”The idyllic aura of Ķīpsala Island is best expressed by the narrow cobbled street that runs right along the banks of the Daugava River. Apart from a few prominent newcomers, the street is lined with old wooden buildings, and the sea birds and fresh smell of water are all around.

38 ” Ikars / shutterstock.com 39 LUCAVSALA NATURE

Despite its location in the Salu Bridge. A true summer oasis ramshackle houses protected middle of Riga, Lucavsala is a for rest and relaxation, the park from outsiders by signs reading wild island – a jungle in the heart offers the city’s largest children’s ”beware of the dog”... of the city – that stretches for playground, a beach, a café and two kilometres in length and all sorts of sports and activities. It’s easy to get to Lucavsala (which a whole kilometre in width. In Lucavsala is also a place for has only one street, Lucavsalas addition, this is a place where outdoor concerts and festivals. Street). Just get on trolleybus #19 two completely different worlds The other face of the island30 is the in the city centre, and climb off live side by side. One face is as-yet-undeveloped southern at the Lucavsala stop. The park well-kept and the site of the end, where a certain untamed at the northern end of the island recently established Lucavsala harshness still prevails: overgrown begins just a few metres from Recreation Park at the foot of paths, small allotment gardens, the stop.

”Although more than one thousand kilometres long in total, only the last twenty kilometres or so of the river flow through the Latvian capital before meeting the Gulf of A true summer oasis for rest and ” Riga. But the Daugava has played a crucial relaxation, the park offers the city’s role in the development of Riga. The city was largest children’s playground, a beach, founded on its shores, and for a long time the a café and all sorts of sports and river was the only east-west trade route in the activities. Lucavsala is also a place for region. outdoor concerts and festivals.

40 ” Aleksandrs Kendenkovs ” 41 DAUGAVA THE SEA

Even though technically Riga significant relationship with the power and might of the wind and is located on the Gulf of Riga, sea. It is depicted in art, literature, witness its cleansing effect on the locals refer to this body of water cinema and folklore, where it is beaches near the city. Walking as simply ”the sea”, thereby personified as both a protector out on the Mangaļsala jetty is also Rigans have a very special has played a crucial role in the wreaked damage on the city. underscoring the self-sufficient and source of nourishment as popular at times like this – it is relationship with the Daugava development of Riga. The city In 1358 the flood waters in the spirit of the city. well as the decider of fates. When the first part of the city that ships River. It is not only Latvia’s largest was founded on its shores, and Riga Cathedral are said to have autumn storms bring strong see as they enter the mouth of river and a national symbol for for a long time the river was the reached the height of an adult Latvian culture – and Latvians winds to the area, many people the Daugava River. the country; it is also a force of only east-west trade route in the human being. And on April 23, themselves – have a very rush to the seashore to feel the nature with whose sometimes region. 1929, Riga was transformed into unpredictable character the 31Venice for a day – in some areas 32 people living along its shores On the one hand a mother- of the city movement was only have needed to come to terms nurturer (thanks to its abundance possible by boat. Information on with. Although more than one of fish), on the other hand the Daugava’s water level is still thousand kilometres long in total, the river could also provide included in local springtime news only the last twenty kilometres or unpleasant surprises. The channel reports. so of the river flow through the of the Daugava has changed Latvian capital before meeting several times over the years, and the Gulf of Riga. But the Daugava extensive springtime floods have

42 43 RIGA CANAL ĶĪŠEZERS

3.2 kilometres long, about two metres deep and crossed by 16 bridges of various size, the Ķīšezers Lake is in the the ever-present fishermen (both remains open during the cold Riga Canal is an artificial body of water that northeastern part of Riga and is on shore and in boats), this is also months and offers hot teas to was created after the medieval defensive the tenth largest lake in Latvia. a favourite destination for local warm up with, the action really walls and ditch surrounding the city were windsurfers. Here you’ll also find picks up in the summer, when demolished. Both ends of the canal are The average depth of Ķīšezers the veikot.lv wakeboard club. Cabo Cafe provides the perfect connected to the Daugava River, and its banks Lake is 2.4 metres, with a spot to take a break during a long were carefully landscaped in the late 19th maximum depth of 4.2 metres. One of Riga’s most exciting day in the sun and water. One of century. The lake has several islands, and outdoor cafés is located on the the most popular swimming spots there’s almost always a wind banks of Ķīšezers Lake – Cabo on Ķīšezers Lake is right next to 33The Riga Canal is also a wonderful way to see blowing. Therefore, in addition to Cafe. Even though the café the café. Riga from a different perspective. Take a ”Riga 34 Loop” tour on a SUP board or kayak – under the 16 bridges, right in the middle yet apart from the hustle and bustle of the city, past centuries-old buildings, along the zigzags of Riga’s former system of defensive walls. Here you can paddle at your own speed and feel like you’re in a completely different world PARKS than that taking place up on dry land.

The Riga Canal is also home to beavers. They become a news item as soon as they wake up in the spring. One of the several lodges they’ve At the beginning of the 20th The best known of Riga’s parks or sold to a private person and made stands right across from the opera century, Riga’s parks were instead is Vērmanes Garden, which was would always remain accessible house. But each season they also manage referred to as spas or health funded by public donations to the people of Riga. A bandshell to take down a tree or destroy a few flower resorts – places for people to and named in honour of the (or ”cockleshell”, as it was called beds along the canal. Despite this mischief, relax and recuperate. Riga has largest donor, Anna Wöhrmann in those days) was later built which the city tries to deter with more and almost twenty parks and gardens (Vērmane), the widow of the in the park, with the current more protective fencing, the beavers and the of various size, each with its merchant Christian Heinrich open-air stage dating to the residents of Riga peacefully co-exist in the own personality. The oldest is Wöhrmann. In 1817, she donated 1950s. A mineral-water pavilion city. Viestura Garden (Viestura dārzs), a piece of land to the city for the also stood in the park, but it was 35established in 1711 by order of establishment of a public park eventually turned into a movie Peter the Great himself. Here containing exotic tree species, theatre, then a cultural centre you’ll find the Alexander Gate, a rose garden and a restaurant. for the city’s transportation Riga’s only ”arch of triumph”. Her only condition was that the employees, and today it houses park would never be subdivided the Bibliotēka N°1 restaurant.

44 45 Due to its location in the very River, is the most idyllic park in winter, however, Uzvaras Park centre of Riga, however, Vērmanes the city. Its several levels provide becomes a favourite place for Garden is a hurried place, with diverse and beautiful views Rigans – as soon as a layer of RIGA’S ISLANDS many people moving through it of the surrounding landscape. snow forms on the ground, the quickly as they head from point Ziedoņdārzs Park is the only park cross-country ski trail and skating A to B. in Riga set amidst apartment rink are opened for all to use. buildings – like a green oasis As all prominent rivers, the Island, which was formed by the Kundziņsala is still a place to go Arkādijas Park, near Māras Pond dropped in between the inner- Daugava is capricious and has merging of several islands, is only for some peace and quiet – a on the other side of the Daugava city buildings all around. In the a strong personality. Its islands about 300 years old. Furthermore, place to enjoy the aroma of provide vivid testimony of this it seems to still be growing today. lilacs in the spring and the bitter character. Although poorly There used to be a fishing village aroma of fallen leaves in the documented in historical sources, on the island, but life changed in autumn. There is still a small it is estimated that there were 1976, when the Salu Bridge was settlement of houses from the once several dozen islands in built, and later, in the 1980s, when early 20th century in the central the Daugava River. Over the the Riga Radio and Television part of the island, but the site is years, they have changed shape, Tower was built on the island. increasingly being degraded by 36merged, become attached to industrialisation. the mainland or even been Kundziņsala was also formed lost altogether due to flooding, when several smaller islands Today, the name of a street the river’s channels changing merged together in the second remains as the only evidence of course and also the military and half of the 18th century. For the existence of Mūkusala Island; industrial actions of humans living a long time, the island was a the area was only a true island along the river’s shores. nesting ground for seagulls and from the 13th to the 18th century. other aquatic birds. In fact, one Lucavsala and Ķīpsala islands, The current islands in the river, of the islands that merged to however, are still full-fledged each of which is a world of its form Kundziņsala was named islands. own, are also undergoing constant Duck Island. Even though the change. For example, Zaķusala romance of earlier times is gone,

46 47 RIGA’S BEACHES RIGA’S HILLS

In recent years, Riga has put more Riga Castle, where the president is also where the wakeboarders The topography of Riga was A 24-metre-high dune can be killed or mortally wounded here and more thought into summer, of Latvia resides. With the gather. And where open-air film originally wind-blown sand dunes. found in the former working-class during a shootout by the special and it’s gradually becoming one traffic speeding past up on the screenings take place. And where Small settlements were eventually neighbourhood of Grīziņkalns. A police units of the Soviet Ministry of the most summer-friendly bridge, this beach combines an you can sit on the café terrace established between the dunes, public park was established here of the Interior. Commemorative cities in Europe. This means that urban dynamic with the idyllic and gaze at the sunset reflecting and still today there are quite a as well in the early 20th century, stones on both sides of the city beaches have become an integral tranquillity and sweet summer off the river’s waters. few place names in Riga that refer and its best-known feature is a canal now mark the sites where part of the city as well. Whether smells of Ķīpsala. in one way or another to hills, series of terraces. they fell. along the Daugava River or the For those who prefer a lakeside although in reality they are all banks of Ķīšezers Lake, each The beach on Lucavsala Island, beach, head to the slightly relatively quite small. The highest point (actually, the But the most paradoxical of Riga’s beach has a character of its own. for its part, feels like a trip out smaller beach at Ķīšezers Lake, only area of higher elevation) hills lies at the end of Deglava into the green countryside,37 even whose sand is sprinkled with 38The highest point in Riga is in the city centre is Bastejkalns. Street, amongst the clusters The best beach for industrial though the island is right in the pine needles and cones. That’s Dzegužkalns (Cuckoo Hill, The hill was made from the city’s of multi-storey apartment romantics is the white-sand middle of the city. Lucavsala because of its location between 28 metres above sea level), a medieval defensive ramparts complexes. For almost 50 years beach on Ķīpsala Island. It’s was once full of small allotment the pine forest and the boat naturally formed dune in the after they were demolished in the this – a district that is now home located at the foot of the Vanšu gardens, but now eleven hectares dock. The Mežaparks central Pārdaugava district of the city 19th century. The retaining walls to more than 100,000 people – Bridge, next to one of the city’s have been turned into a large promenade – appropriately that’s a kilometre long and about were added in 1951 and contain was the site of a residential and busiest transportation hubs. recreation zone popular with called Atpūtas Street (Street of 300 metres wide. The area was many decorative details from the industrial waste dump. Although Directly across the river is the locals from all walks of life. Rest) – is also nearby. Here you’ll turned into a public park in the historical buildings destroyed no longer actively used as a Riga Passenger Terminal, so you Thanks to its interactive children’s find a cafés as well as plenty of 1930s, and its highest point opens during the Second World War. dump, over the decades the can watch the ships come in playgrounds, the beach on space for a picnic. up to a beautiful view of the Even though today Bastejkalns is accumulated waste grew into a and leave as you catch some Lucavsala is a great place for low, wooden architecture of the a favourite place for a romantic hill that’s now 35.5 metres high. rays. From here you can also see families with young children. This surrounding neighbourhood – it’s stroll, it is also the site of a tragic an authentic slice of 19th-century event in Latvia’s recent history. In Riga. January 1991, several people were

”The best beach for industrial romantics is the white-sand beach on Ķīpsala Island. It’s located at the foot of the Vanšu Bridge, next to one of the city’s busiest transportation hubs. Directly across the river is the Riga Passenger Terminal, so you can watch the ships come in and leave as you catch some rays.

48 ” 49 TREES LILACS

Trees are like green jewels – around it have died. Latvians the linden, or lime. It’s considered and also natural doctors – for highly value the sap of birches, a tree of love and family as The lilacs bloom for only a short time – three a city, and they’ve always been which they tap as soon as the well as a symbol of femininity. weeks – but it is during this time that the city a dominant feature of Riga. ground begins to thaw in spring – Therefore, Latvian families have truly blossoms, falling into a swoon of sweet But trees also carry significant it’s full of valuable minerals, always planted a linden when a sin. Nothing blooms as vividly and with such a symbolic meaning in Latvian and Latvians call it the drink of girl is born...and an oak if a boy heady and life-affirming aroma as lilacs, and culture. For example, due to health. During birch sap season, is born. According to the local it’s no wonder they’re considered a symbol of its beauty and gentle touch, you can buy bottles of it (slightly mythology, a linden can also youth and family. Latvians believe that if you Latvians have always associated fermented and flavoured with ward off lightning and absorb a find and eat (!) a five-petalled lilac flower in the birch with the concepts raisins and some lemon peel) at person’s illnesses. the springtime – then all your wishes will come of home and homeland. Like all the farmers’ markets in Riga,39 true. Every local child knows this,40 so don’t be Latvians themselves, the birch has and the drink stays fresh until the surprised if you see people oddly searching a distinct will to live. The birch beginning of summer. The most for something in the lilac bushes, as if they’ve will survive even if other trees common tree in Riga, however, is gotten lost.

Lilacs have also been memorialised in artwork and design. The motif was once a favourite decorative element on the porcelain and faience dishes made by the legendary Kuznetsov Porcelain Factory (established in 1841), which today are highly valued collector’s items.

50 51 ART AND CULTURE LATVIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ART

In May 2016, after several years expositions, visitors get a glimpse This is one of the most prestigious of major renovation, the main of the glass-covered museum art spaces in Riga and an building of the Latvian National warehouse, which holds a part important stop for understanding Museum of Art (LNMM; lnmm. of the museum’s collection. The contemporary art processes. INSTITUTIONS lv), located at 1 Jaņa Rozentāla collection covers art from the Square, was opened again to early 19th century to the late 20th Another structural unit of the visitors. The exterior of the century. LNMM, the Riga Bourse Art building, originally built in 1905, Museum, is also located in Old remains untouched. But an The museum’s permanent Riga, at 6 Cathedral Square. organic synergy of two different exhibition, displayed in the old Architecturally, the building 40 41eras is revealed behind the part of the building, traces the unambiguously calls to mind the Historicism-style façade. Inside, development of Latvian fine Venetian palazzo style. Inside, it the historical core of the museum art. One of the highlights is the holds Latvia’s largest collection has been preserved, with many museum’s collection of work by of foreign art, beginning with the once-forgotten elements given well-known constructivist Gustav 5th century BC all the way to the new life; at the same time, Klutsis (Gustavs Klucis). But the early 20th century. contemporary architectural museum is also notable for being features have also become an the only place in Riga to see a Still another part of the LNMM is integral part of the overall form. permanent exhibition presenting found at 10/20 Skārņu Street, right A gleaming, golden staircase local art processes of the late next to St. Peter’s Church. The connects the old part of the 20th century. Museum of Decorative Arts and building with the new museum Design contains seven individual spaces, where minimalist The Arsenāls Exhibition Hall of collections: textiles, ceramics, concrete dominates. When the LNMM is located at 1 Torņa metal art, leather art, decorative heading to the main exhibition Street, very near Riga Castle and wood art, glass art and design. hall, which hosts changing the Saeima (Parliament) building.

52 53 ”One of the oldest non-governmental ART INSTITUTIONS cultural and art institutions in Latvia is Noass, or Noah in English (www.noass.lv), which is located on a débarcadère, or landing stage, moored to the AB Dambis jetty in the Contemporary art is one of the One of the oldest Based on the private collection Daugava River. Noass’ focus is on the moving elements that gives modern non-governmental cultural of Dina and Jānis Zuzāns, who image, and its extensive archive of video urban cultural life a provocative, and art institutions in Latvia is are well-known patrons of the art is particularly valuable. Noass’ video art experimental flavour, urging Noass, or Noah in English (www. arts in Latvia, the Mūkusala Art people to look at what’s noass.lv), which is located on a Salon (www.mmsalons.lv) is the festival, titled Ūdensgabali, is popular among happening in our world from a débarcadère, or landing stage, only private exhibition space art circles and is the only such event in the completely different perspective. moored to the AB Dambis jetty in Riga. The couple strives to Baltics. in the Daugava River. Noass’ focus create a portrait of Latvian art, The kim? Contemporary Art is on the moving image, and its so, logically, their space hosts Centre has established a home extensive archive of video art is regular art exhibitions focussing for itself in a former candy particularly valuable. Noass’42 video on vivid, compelling phenomena factory at 2 Sporta Street (kim. art festival, titled Ūdensgabali, is in Latvian art. lv) in Riga. In Latvian the name is popular among art circles and is ” an abbreviation for the rhetorical the only such event in the Baltics. During the summer season, question ”kas ir māksla?”, or the corner of Kalnciema and ”what is art?”. Since it began in Riga Art Space (Rīgas mākslas Melnsila streets (36/38 Kalnciema 2009, kim? has focussed not telpa; makslastelpa.lv), a Street) becomes one of the city’s only on organising exhibitions multifunctional centre for art and epicentres of visual art. Here, at of Latvian and foreign artists culture located under Town Hall its so-called ”summer home”, but also on defining and Square in Old Riga, collaborates the Art Needs Space foundation interpreting the essence of art with other art institutions to (makslaivajagtelpu.lv) organises a through discussions, lectures regularly hold a wide range of series of small-format, conceptual and educational programmes for contemporary art events. exhibitions. children and youth.

54 Momenti.lv55 ETHNOGRAPHIC OPEN-AIR MUSEUM

A visit to the Latvian Ethnographic been recognised as superb fifty years now craftsmen and Open-Air Museum is like a trip examples of the country’s artists from all over Latvia have back to a world long before the cultural and historical heritage. been gathering at the museum to invention of the automobile, They have been disassembled, participate in its annual fair. Huge when only food and drink from transported to the museum and crowds flock to the museum, all one’s own land was put on the then painstakingly reassembled abuzz with excitement, because table and each farmstead wove to form a number of authentic everyone is looking to buy that its own sheets and blankets. The farmsteads. Here you’ll find special woven rug or textile, piece museum was founded in 1924 typical peasant houses and of jewellery, ceramic dish or other and covers 87 hectares. Here barns, craftsmen’s workshops, ware. Because Latvian craftsman visitors can wander the seemingly windmills, smithies, potters’ 43are known for their craftsmanship endless network of paths, stroll kilns and tar kilns. In some of and high quality of work, the along the banks of Jugla Lake, or the buildings it is also possible museum has also established easily find a quiet corner to have to observe craftsmen creating a new tradition – every year, a picnic under the pines without wonderful objects according to on the second Saturday and being bothered by other people. old, traditional techniques. Sunday of August, it hosts the Contemporary Crafts Festival. The museum contains 118 old The most festive moment of buildings from all regions of the year at the Ethnographic Latvia (Kurzeme, Zemgale, Open-Air Museum is the first Vidzeme, Latgale) that have weekend of June, when for almost

”The museum contains 118 old buildings from all regions of Latvia (Kurzeme, Zemgale, Vidzeme, Latgale) that have been recognised as superb examples of the country’s cultural and historical heritage. They have been disassembled, transported to the museum and then painstakingly reassembled to form a number of authentic farmsteads.

56 ” 57 The museum introduces visitors One of the most interesting mount of the dog Chernushka is to medical discoveries and the places in the museum is the hall also on display here; she ventured RAILWAY MUSEUM rapid progress of medicine from dedicated to outer-space biology into space in 1961, a full month the 18th to the 20th century, and medicine. It features an before Yuri Gagarin. and also emphasises the history historical astronaut’s suit, take-off and achievements of medical and landing chairs, and a capsule The Latvian Railway History life of its employees. Its extensive The museum features a developments in Latvia. used to send dogs into space. A Museum (railwaymuseum.lv) collection of photographs 19th-century railway repair shop located at 2/4 Uzvaras Boulevard reflects both existing and former complete with an improvised holds the largest trove of records railway stations, bridges, lines, platform, from which museum related to the railway industry locomotives and wagons that visitors arrive in the waiting room in Latvia. The museum also were once used in Latvia. In of the station and the offices owns the largest collection of addition, the museum has a wide of the stationmaster, cashier broad-gauge railway vehicles range of industry-related printed and agent on duty. Visitors (locomotives, railroad cars, materials: train lists, tickets, can also climb into the driver’s wagons, etc.) in the Baltics. The various books and brochures, compartment and engine room museum encompasses the periodicals, honorary certificates,44 of a diesel locomotive, inspect history of the Latvian railway, invitations and other printed electric and steam locomotives RAINIS AND ASPAZIJA HOUSE with expositions covering topics matter that contains information at close range, and gaze into a from station architecture to the no longer available anywhere else. passenger car from the 1930s.

Rainis and Aspazija were the and Aspazija settled in 1926, kitchen at mealtimes, and from most legendary of Latvian literary became their last joint residence time to time the telephone in unions. Rainis (1865–1929) was in Riga. Rainis lived here until his Rainis’ room rings. Lines of the an intellectual Social Democrat, death in 1929; Aspazija lived at couple’s poetry are used as an PAULS STRADIŅŠ MUSEUM OF a champion of Latvian national this address until 1933. interior design element and let identity, a translator, playwright visitors immerse themselves in and poet. His wife, Aspazija (1865– To preserve their legacy, both the creative heritage left by these THE HISTORY OF MEDICINE 1943), was a feminist and one of poets had expressed a desire giants of the literary world. the most vivid women in Latvian that their house eventually be 46society around the turn of the transformed into a memorial One of the main features in the Few people know that the Professor Pauls Stradiņš. The intuitive medical practices of the 20th century; she was also a poet museum. The exposition is Rainis and Aspazija memorial building at 1 Antonijas Street museum’s collection contains Stone Age, testifies to the oldest with a volcanic personality. It is created as a lifelike living space, house is the library, which in Riga holds one of the three over 200,000 artifacts and covers surgical operation (trepanation) quite difficult to talk about one where the presence of Rainis contains 6067 books in 14 largest medical history museums all medical fields; the permanent and tells about the harsh without mentioning the other. and Aspazija feels quite real. The languages as well as 2900 issues in the world. It was founded in exposition takes visitors on a reality of magical medicine and poets’ shadows slide from room of various periodicals. 1957 by one of the most legendary journey that leads to various medieval therapies. The 19th-century wooden house to room, a piano plays in the 45medical doctors in Latvia, ages and places. It illustrates the at 30 Baznīcas Street, where Rainis background, dishes clink in the

58 59 RIGA MOTOR MUSEUM SPLENDID PALACE

The Riga Motor Museum, located carmaker August Krastin (Augusts active part and make a visit to Located at 61 Elizabetes Street, almost nothing has changed here in the region. Since its inception, at 6 Sergeja Eizenšteina Street, is Krastiņš). the museum particularly exciting. Splendid Palace is the oldest since 1923, when Splendid Palace the theatre has stood out from the largest antique car museum For example, when boarding and most ornate cinema was unveiled to the public. The the crowd with its fine selection in the Baltics. It contains over Another of the museum’s a PAZ bus, they travel back to theatre in Riga. Moreover, it theatre could accommodate 824 of movies, and this tradition 146 exhibits in a space covering highlights is its own so-called 1975 and experience a trip to a was the first building in the cinema-goers and was the most continues to the present day. 4,000 square meters. The ”Kremlin collection”, which joyous wedding on a kolkhoz. city created specifically for modern cinema in the Baltics. The schedule consists of high- exhibits are grouped together includes, among other things, Visitors can also drive in a virtual the cinematograph. It features quality auteur cinema as well in 11 different categories and former Soviet leader Leonid parade and be photographed in a sophisticated architectural In October 1929, The Singing Fool as art-house films from Europe form a multi-layered narrative Brezhnev’s Rolls-Royce Silver Kremlin car. A special programme details, allegorical wall and (USA, 1928, directed by Lloyd and elsewhere that have drawn that allows visitors to follow the Shadow and the ZIS-115S that lets children learn about the ceiling paintings, and sculptural Bacon) was shown at Splendid accolades at film festivals around history of cars not only in Latvia Joseph Stalin used to ride in. The history of the automobile in a palm branches framing the Palace and was the first motion the world. but worldwide and discover museum also has a Auto Union47 60-minute guided tour. They can screen in the Great Hall. In fact, picture with sound to be shown48 how the automobile became V16. This car, used in hill-climb also obtain a bicycle licence at an integral part of everyday life. racing in the 1930s, provided one the museum. The child-friendly The museum’s greatest treasure of the main impulses for founding museum has lounge areas with is a car that has survived for the Riga Motor Museum. various games as well as a play more than a century – it was corner for children. ART GALLERIES manufactured in the United The museum’s multimedia States in 1903 by Latvian-born expositions invite visitors to take Art galleries are significant ”way art; it regularly holds exhibitions The 427 Gallery (fourtoseven. points” to current art processes of contemporary art as well as info), located at 70 Stabu Street in Riga, and the solo and group expositions dedicated to the and founded by the artists exhibitions they host allow grand old names of Latvian art Kaspars Groševs and Ieva Kraule, visitors to become acquainted history. The Bastejs Gallery, for its is definitely one of the most with significant personalities, part, includes in its programme provocative art spaces in Riga at trends and current events on the exhibitions of artists from abroad, the moment. Although there’s local cultural scene. especially reviews of artists from no guarantee that it will always the Baltic region. be open during normal business The two oldest art galleries in hours, it’s worth checking out in Riga are the Daugava Gallery The Māksla XO Gallery order to feel the vibe of the city’s (at 1 Ausekļa Street in the Quiet (14 Elizabetes Street; www. new art scene. The Low Gallery Centre, in a building designed by makslaxogalerija.lv) and Alma (www.facebook.com/lowgallery), 49Jānis Frīdrihs Baumanis, the first Gallery (www.galerija-alma. initiated by artist Maija Kurševa Latvian educated as an architect; lv) are institutions that actively and located at 115 Ģertrūdes www.galerijadaugava.lv) and the seek to represent art not only Street, opened in the spring of Bastejs Gallery (at 7 Alksnāja domestically but also on the 2017. Kurševa calls Low Gallery the Street in Old Riga; www.bastejs. international stage, by regularly ideal place for spontaneous ideas, lv). The Daugava Gallery focuses participating in international art new talents and the manifestation on a very broad range of Latvian fairs. of the artistic process. 60 61 ŽANIS LIPKE MEMORIAL

The Žanis Lipke Memorial, located project, Latvian architect Zaiga a hatch in the floor visitors peer at 8 Mazais Balasta Dambis on Gaile, has created an emotional into the basement bunker, where the island of Ķīpsala, is one of the and visually impressive memorial. nine plank bunks are mounted on most hidden museums in Riga. Unveiled in 2012, it’s a space the walls. The sound installation The small street is sometimes with a strong aura at the end by composer Jēkabs Nīmanis even forgotten to be included of a dimly lit tunnel – a place heightens the emotions. This on maps. But incognito status for reflection, meditation and is a place where time suddenly suits this place, where during contemplation. The faint scent becomes an abstract concept, the Second World War the of wood tar can be felt in the air, and it’s possible to look into the dockworker Žanis Lipke hid 55 which calls to mind images of the past as if through the eyes of God. 50Jews in a three-metre-deep pit old fishermen’s huts on Ķīpsala. Only upon exiting the building under his woodshed and thus The visitors’ path leads through does one fully appreciate its saved their lives. a dusky labyrinth reminiscent size – it resembles Noah’s ark, of the woodshed to the central which delivered the fortunate Just a few metres from where memorial hall in the building’s survivors to dry land after the Lipke’s woodshed was located, attic – this is the heart of the flood. the author of this museum three-storey building. Through

”..this place, where during the Second World War the dockworker Žanis Lipke hid 55 Jews in a three-metre-deep pit under his woodshed and thus saved their lives.

Just a few metres from where Lipke’s woodshed was located, the author of this museum project, Latvian architect Zaiga Gaile, has created an emotional and visually impressive memorial.

62 ” 63 RESTAURANTS, WHAT TO TASTE IN RIGA

BARS AND CAFES a food that has long It’s Grey peas – cheese with caraway seeds. game is a special part of Latvian been forgotten elsewhere – are one of the oldest cheese recipes traditional cuisine: roe deer, red especially popular in Latvia in Europe, and it goes particularly deer, elk, wild boar, capercaillie, around Christmas. They are well with beer. Documentary black grouse. Regarding fish, served with a bacon and onion evidence of beer brewing in although it might come as a sauce, and the dried peas can Latvia dates back to the 13th–16th surprise to visitors to Latvia, an be bought at practically every centuries. absolutely classic Latvian food grocery store in the city. is the wonderful trinity of sour 51Considering that forests cover a cream (mixed with curd), boiled At the summer solstice, however, large proportion of the country, it potatoes and herring. Latvians always eat Midsummer should come as no surprise that

”What are the national foods that every guest of Riga should try to find in the city’s stores, markets and restaurant menus? ”Rye bread is a truly traditional The answer can be confusing, because Latvian food and occupies a place of Latvian cuisine reflects influences from the honour on the table. The hardy rye cuisines of many other cultures. However, it grain overwinters in Latvia’s fields; it seems that the locals knew how to take the then flowers for two weeks, ripens for best of these foods and culinary influences two weeks and dries for two weeks. and adapt them to their own tastes. After that, it is harvested and used to bake that dark, hearty, nutritious, ” sourdough bread. 64 ” 65 GOURMET RESTAURANTS THE FLAVOUR OF

Riga’s gastronomy scene has Locals, however, have long known Tomsons, its long-standing CONTEMPORARY LATVIA managed to surprise more than Vincents to be a legendary fine- sommelier and the winner of a few gourmand travellers. On dining classic. the 2017 European Sommelier the one hand, menus at the Championship. city’s best restaurants echo the Vincents was the first gourmet What kind of flavour bouquet club – that is, the restaurants can be found in foods that current trend for Nordic cuisine restaurant in Riga, and over the Bibliotēka No1 is a member of best describes contemporary led by the country’s most include products like rowan and seasonal eating; on the other 20+ years of its existence it has Riga’s younger generation of Latvia? How do old traditions outstanding culinary masters, berries, acorns, ramps, sorrel, hand, the city’s multicultural soul hosted many prominent guests, gourmet restaurants. Its team mingle with contemporary such as Entresol (Elizabetes hemp butter, Baltic herring, is also definitely present. It’s the from Elton John to the Emperor masterfully combines tradition culinary innovations? Searching iela 22; entresol.lv), Kolonāde: dumplings and much more. combination of these two aspects of Japan and Prince Charles. For with contemporary gastronomy, for the flavour of contemporary Mūsu stāsti (Brīvības bulvāris 26; Meals created according to the that makes for the sometimes many years, its head chef, Slow and the menu is as nuanced in Latvia has become one of the kolonade.lv), Ferma (Valkas iela principles of this cuisine not surprising bouquet of flavours Food advocate Mārtiņš Rītiņš, 52flavours, colours and seasonality 53most exciting activities and topics 7; fermarestorans.lv) and Muusu only taste good, are of high that can be found in Riga. The was the brightest star on Latvia’s as the magnificent view outside of study on Riga’s gastronomy (Skārņu iela 6; muusu.lv) – prove quality and take health and good prestigious White Guide Nordic gastronomy scene. Vincents its windows – Vērmanes Garden, scene. that local Latvian products and nutrition into consideration; restaurant guide named the Riga continues the traditions Rītiņš Rigas’s most beautiful public park. produce can be used in very developing and enjoying such restaurant Vincents as a top-rank established there, although now Menus at the members of the original and unusual ways. The foods also supports local farmers establishment in the Baltics. under the leadership of Raimonds ”Contemporary Latvian Cuisine” flavour of contemporary Latvia and producers.

Bibliotēka No 1 Vincents Ferma Muusu 66 67 THE FLAVOURS 54OF NATURE

”How does one ”lock” the true flavours of nature into a dish? This is currently one of the biggest challenges Restorāns 3 Valmiermuižas alus Riga’s chefs have taken on. In addition to following the current trend of creating menus that contain only seasonal produce grown in Latvia, a host of chefs has chosen to take it one step further, by turning to products that grow wild in nature, without human intervention. If you know what it’s like to snack on a handful of cloudberries fresh from the marsh or are familiar with the taste of wood sorrel picked from a forest glade, now you can also experience these flavours at a number of restaurants in Riga. ” For instance the chefs forth. He challenges himself to amount of creative improvisation, at Restorāns 3 (3 Kalēju only make use of products that the natural flavours of Street; restaurant3.lv), have naturally grow in this climate, chanterelles or summer squash, demonstrated the amazing and so he searches for everything eel or pike perch, guinea fowl or diversity of dishes that can be in the country’s forests and game is always present. Enjoy created from birch juice syrup, meadows that was once deemed the riches of the Baltic Sea and cloudberries, forest mushrooms edible by our ancestors. local freshwater waterways at or even beaver tail. The chef the Le Dome (4 Miesnieku Street; at Valmiermuižas Alus virtuve The menu created by chef of zivjurestorans.lv) fish restaurant. (9a Aristīda Briāna Street; Valtera restorāns (8 Miesnieku Whether preparing Latvian valmiermuiza.lv), for his part, Street; valterarestorans.lv) is sturgeon caviar or turbot, the chef closely follows the seasons and as changeable as the seasons. is a virtuoso working in his niche. the natural produce they bring Although it includes a certain

68 Le Dome Valtera restorāns 69 WATERSIDE RESTAURANTS

Riga is blessed with lots of the city centre. Here you’ll find air, yachts passing by and a time- waterfront access – the Daugava a cluster of restaurants, cafés worn industrial ambience, graffiti River runs through the middle of and clubs. The oldest of these and innovative gastronomy – the city, and there are lakes around institutions is Koya (Andrejostas Andrejosta is an urban romantic the edges of the city. Visiting each iela 4; koyarestaurant.com). experience full of contrasts. body of water is like a journey Other well-known names are within a journey, because each has the restaurant, bar and lounge A completely different, almost a different character and a vastly Aqua Luna (Andrejostas iela 4; meditative waterside scene is different feel. aqualuna.lv) and Muusu Terase found at the golf club restaurant (Eksporta iela 1A; muusu.lv/ 55Ozo (Mīlgrāvja iela 16; ozogolf.lv) One of the most built-up muusu-terase), which serves on the banks of tranquil, beautiful waterfront areas in Riga is contemporary Latvian cuisine. Ķīšezers Lake. Andrejosta, a bit to the north of Modern design and seagulls in the Garage Easy Wine bar WINE BARS

For several years already, the modernists.lv). The modernist located next to Splendid Palace, popular bar/restaurant Vīna Bauhaus-style boutique bar and Riga’s oldest and most ornate Studija (vinastudija.lv), which store focuses on so-called grower movie theatre, and features a boasts a collection of several champagnes, or champagne made wine collection representing 20 hundred wines from various by small producers. countries around the world as regions around the world, has well as Spanish-inspired snacks. helped to guide wine culture The drinks menu in Garage wine in Riga. It has several locations bar (Elizabetes iela 83/85; garage. The Easy Wine bar (Audēju iela throughout the city, but all of lv) features wines from Argentina, 4; easywine.lv) offers a different them are united by a stylish Germany, Italy and France, which concept – service according to yet democratic interior design. can be enjoyed together with the no pre-payment wine-card 56Well-known architect and some wonderful food as well – all principle. Just place the card in wine aficionado Mārtiņš Pīlēns in an environment inspired by the the wine dispenser, and your participated in the creation of garage. Meanwhile, the passion glass will be filled with one of 60 Vīna Studija, but he has since at another wine space in Riga, different wines on offer. moved on to a new project, Tinto (Elizabetes iela 61; tinto.lv), is Aqua Luna Modernists (K. Barona 31; cinema. The bar and restaurant is 70 71 BEST BEER SPOTS

Riga is an intriguing destination British bitter) or ”Kapracis” presenting Valmiermuiža’s own for beer lovers. In addition to the (Gravedigger, a beer that calls to vision of the perfect beer and traditional pubs, it’s worth paying mind the smell and taste of the food combinations. attention to the places that brew smouldering remains of a fire). Meanwhile, the beer bar Taka their own beer, most often in a (10 Miera Street; facebook.com/ special space at the back of the For over a decade now, takabars), where music, culture bar or pub. One such place is the Valmiermuižas alus (9 A. Briāna and board games live together Labietis brewery (9a-2 A. Briāna Street; valmiermuiza.lv) has harmoniously, is notable for Street; labietis.lv), which offers a been considered one of the its very unique range of beers, 57number of beer varieties divided best breweries in Latvia. You’ll focussing mainly on the truly into ”families”, depending on the find almost its entire range of small breweries of Latvia and their strength of beer. Each of these beers available at the brewery’s individual flavours. Labietis has a quirky name, such as ”Soho so-called ”embassy in Riga”, Švītiņš” (Soho Dandy, a traditional which also features a restaurant

72 Taka Valmiermuižas alus73 Sooner or later all of Riga’s the latest ”barber style” haircuts broadcasts. Hipsters who are also BARS AND NIGHTLIFE hipster roads lead to the Vest bar and the newest trends in tattoos. cultural gourmands often drop by (1 Stabu Street; facebook.com/ At the same time, enjoy a hearty the café of the Kaņepes Culture VestRiga), where all the notable meal and good brew as well as a Centre (15 Skolas Street; Years ago, Riga was the most more refined revellers prefer the lv), located in the very heart celebrities of this particular style fleeting glance at the TV, which www.kanepes.lv). lively of all the Baltic capitals in long-standing B-Bārs (2 Dome of Riga’s Art Nouveau district. gather. Here you can check out regularly screens live sports terms of its nightclub scene and Square; bbars.lv), while those who Slightly further out – in the many professional DJs. Today, favour a more relaxed and warm creative quarter known as the the city’s bars and nightclubs atmosphere won’t want to miss Miera Street Republic – many an have each focussed on creating a night out at Omas Briljants (7 intellectual, following a stiff and their own unique image and Audēju Street; omasbriljans.lv). serious meeting or conference, atmosphere that best suits their will not hesitate to step into the intended audience, so local club- These days, however, the lively alternative beer bar Walters & goers know more or less what bar and nightclub scene has Grapa (19 Miera Street), only to they can expect from each club. shifted past the boulevard 58later head on for some dancing circle, and for the past few years at the city’s most fiery rock bar, Many a tourist has spent an the most prestigious player Nemiers (9a Aristīda Briāna Street; unforgettable night in one of on the scene has been Bārs nemiers.lv). Old Riga’s establishments. The XII (1a Strēlnieku Street; bar13.

RIGA’S HIP HANGOUTS

On the map of European hipster cafés. An alternative outlook on this tradition. There’s also a centre sub-culture, Riga has a number life permeates the air, and there for motor scooter enthusiasts and of times been awarded the title are acoustic concerts, poetry those who adhere to the cult of the of hipster capital. Although readings and lectures in the iconic Italian brand Vespa – Vespa there are signs of hipster culture evenings. Garazh at 4 Valkas Street (vespas. throughout the city, its epicentre lv) provides scooter maintenance, a is Miera Street. This is the home Another unique hipster meeting scooter rental service and a Vespa- of many hip spots: design and place is MiiT (10 Lāčplēša Street; style bar. fashion stores, cool hairdressing miit.lv), which was one of Riga’s 59salons, tea houses and vegetarian first ”velo cafés” and still continues 74 75 MARKETS

Rigans have always enjoyed – and of life and very eclectic. Here all year round. Although set in the succeeded – at trade, both selling you can renew your zest for life, shade of apple trees and against and buying. To this day, despite yet you may also be slightly a backdrop of restored wooden the wide range of supermarkets in disenchanted – whatever the buildings, the market’s strongest Riga, locals still include shopping case, it’s possible to find some drawcard is the quality offered at the variety of markets that the real gems among the junk. When by the merchants. Here you’ll city offers as part of their daily you learn to look with a critical find lots of local, organically routine. eye and recognise the good stuff, grown produce, including some shopping at the Central Market more ”exotic” goods, such as Of course, the main market in can turn into a real gastronomic60 melons and watermelons grown Riga is the Central Market (7 Nēģu adventure. At the same time, in Latvia, and lesser-known treats, Street; rct.lv). It’s one of the largest you can also have a bit of a feast for example, a Latvian version of European city marketplaces and and savour the local flavours for Hong Kong bubble waffles and is also unique because of its free. How? Simply by showing an carrot gelato. Other one-of-a-kind extraordinary architecture. The interest and asking for a taste. objects can also be found at the cluster of market booths and Kalnciema Quarter market, from stands in this area is located right A different type of market traditional crafts created by local next to five impressive central shopping experience is offered artisans to things with a distinctly buildings that were once used at the farmers’ and artisans’ contemporary design. as hangars for German Zeppelin market in Kalnciema Quarter (35 airships during the First World Kalnciema Street; kalnciema.lv), War. Riga Central Market is full which takes place every Saturday

76 77 FASHION AND STYLISH SOUVENIRS Finding a meaningful souvenir into Riga, designed in 1980 by whose face is decorated with is a challenge in any metropolis, artist Valdis Celms. You’ll see details from various works of especially in this time of more than just a couple of locals art, or the t-shirts paraphrasing oversaturated consumer culture. wearing the popular shirt! the timeless paintings of Kārlis An even bigger challenge is Padegs, a legendary dandy and DESIGN creating souvenirs that are The LNMM Brand Foundation, for outsider of the Latvian art world. popular not only among tourists its part, is devoted to popularising The foundation has also created but also among local residents. the Latvian National Museum of a unique shoe collection inspired And yet Riga has managed to do Art collection. It regularly creates by the Latvian modernist Niklāvs just this! lines of souvenirs based on Strunke. reproductions of artwork found 40 61The ”Rīga” t-shirts designed by in the museum’s permanent If you are looking for more Miesai have become something collection or exhibited in traditional city souvernirs that are of an urban style icon. The logo temporary exhibitions. Each stylish and useful at the same time, contains a reference to the souvenir is like a work of art in visit the Riga Tourist Information large-scale ”Rīga” signs on the itself, with its own story and Center (Ratslaukums 6). side of three major roads leading purpose. For example, the clock

ACTIVE LIFESTYLE ACCESSORIES

In Latvia, a rebirth of classical and 1990s can now been seen And for the children, Brum Brum values and a rethinking of design on the streets in a more modern has developed a fresh, new to meet the needs of today’s and sought-after longboard design for small balance bikes. users have come to characterise version. The most notable A single screw makes assembly the manufacture of inventory and addition to skateboard culture and disassembly unbelievably accessories for an active lifestyle. today, however, is Lokal Boards, simple and easy, and the unique a manufacturer of handcrafted U-shaped birch frame is made to A 20th-century icon is making a skateboards defined by their protect young riders’ backs from comeback in the Latvian capital – laconic, contemporary and stylish potholes. The wheels are safe for the classic Ripo skateboards design that calls to mind the little fingers as well. made by the Sarkanā Zvaigzne aesthetics of old-school hippie ImageHouse moped manufacturer in the 1980s surf culture. 62 78 79 CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY

Jewellery is a language all its compositions, historicism and also The Putti art gallery in Old Riga own, and Latvian contemporary free interpretations of forms found is a mainstay of the Latvian jewellery artists have an excellent, in nature. No matter whether using contemporary jewellery tradition. refined command of this language. precious gems, semi-precious Established in 2000, it organises Each of them stands out with stones, precious metals, ebony, powerful, compelling exhibitions a vividly individual style, their coral, lava rock or amber, Latvian and is thus also recognised sources of inspiration ranging from artists display an elegant feeling for on the international stage. At cultural history and ethnographic material. Although at first glance Putti you’ll find the essence of ETMO elements from around the world much of the jewellery resembles jewellery created by Latvia’s to the clean lines and asceticism of miniature sculptures, the design is best contemporary jewellery the Bauhaus style. Their creations also always distinctly functional. designers. include attractive post-modernist 63 DESIGN AND LIFESTYLE STORES LATVIAN CONTEMPORARY FURNITURE DESIGN Just like Latvian design itself, the old traditions yet also Kolekcionārs (Blaumaņa iela 7, the places where this design is incorporate modern solutions kolekcionars.com), for its part, represented are also vibrant and into their work. The store sells takes a different approach to exciting. Riga’s galleries, stores everything from bed linens, Latvian design by combining an Latvian contemporary furniture the language of design and that Latvian aesthetic and old crafts and design spaces masterfully towels and free-flowing garments art café, a store and a parade design is marked by a northern furniture is not just something traditions. combine Latvian identity, which made of refined, washed linen of Latvian design all in one. The minimalism and functionality, chosen to match a room. Its pieces involves a system of cultural to original furniture, dishes and design objects fulfil their true which includes designs that can are expressive and self-sufficient in One interesting aspect of the best codes developed over hundreds lighting objects. calling here – they are not only be configured, modified and their own right. contemporary furniture designed of years, with a contemporary displayed for viewing but are combined in various ways to alter in Latvia is that it looks just as feeling for the world. The ETMO gallery (Arsenāla iela actually tangible and usable. their form. Rihards Funts (one of Latvia’s good whether in a living room 647, etmo.lv) also maintains a close This means that lamps made by 65most progressive contemporary or a kitchen. In addition, many The design and lifestyle store relationship with traditional Latvian designers hang from the The Mint line of furniture has designers) and the Latvian pieces of children’s furniture are RIIJA (Tērbatas iela 6/8, riija. Latvian crafts, emphasising the ceiling and hold real lightbulbs, entered both the Latvian and design studio Rijada also designed in order to grow along lv) is the largest platform for use of ethnographic motifs in spoons clink on the plates, and international markets with a bang. adhere to the idea that only with the child. A fine example of contemporary Latvian design. contemporary design. Textiles hot coffee steams in the cups. In It has been inspired by some of the by using existing components this is the SO:LO transformable Here you’ll find work by made in Latvian weavers’ studios addition, the collection is always world’s best examples of design as and putting them together in children’s object created by Aija internationally recognised Latvian form a significant part of the being added to and changes well as by modernist and brutalist different combinations does the Priede-Sietiņa and Daneks Sietiņš designers as well as the best from wares for sale at ETMO. along with new trends in Latvian architecture. Mint proves that new and unusual arise. Rijada’s of Kukuu and lauded by design local craftsmen, who continue design. functionality is still able to speak designs are often rooted in the enthusiasts. 80 81 CONCEPT BOOKSTORES

Each with its own character a love letter to all of the great (21a K. Barona Street; niceplace. and smell, Riga’s bookstores books in the world”. The books lv) – book illustrator Zane are like small, self-sufficient here have been carefully selected Ernštreite and linguist Valts worlds in which the selection and come from many different Ernštreits – are both very familiar on the shelves is curated with publishing houses (both large with books and have created a the passion of a collector. And, and small), shops and exhibitions true space for inspiration in their despite the oversaturation of from around the world. Mr. store. Authors and poets show the digital age, their popularity Page’s bookshelves carry books up here regularly as well, perhaps just keeps on growing, thereby about art, popular science, pop generating ideas for new work confirming that this is truly a time culture and lifestyle as well as right amongst the bookshelves. of exciting niche publications. recent publications dedicated NicePlace TELPA sells good 66to Instagram and Snapshot, literature by local authors as The concept bookstore Mr. Page innovative photo albums and new well as literature in translation. It (4 Miera Street; facebook.com/ literature from Latvia and abroad. also has a variety of wonderfully mrpagebookstore) adheres to inspiring stationery and souvenirs the motto ”a bookstore is like The owners of NicePlace TELPA made by Latvian designers.

NATURAL COSMETICS BRANDS

At a time when ‘healthy lifestyle’ but has since grown into an peony and flaxseed antioxidants has become a mantra, there’s international company. It uses and hyaluronic acid, Madara also more and more demand for some of the most powerful harnesses the special healing natural cosmetics. And you’re natural antioxidants found in qualities found in plants that have sure to find the Latvian brand forests and woodlands to make been growing in this cool, harsh, Madara Cosmetics among the its products. Whether it’s a rich northern climate for thousands most popular cosmetics concept but gentle foam with yarrow of years. stores. Madara began as a extract or an intense moisturising small, alternative manufacturer cream infused with northern67 Mr. Page 82 83 Imagehouse (Brīvības iela enjoy a cup of coffee or glass anywhere else in Riga. LATVIAN FASHION BRANDS 40) is the first and largest of wine with our gourmet style The newest and most ambitious combined design concept in Riga starters & desserts. of Riga’s fashion stores is BOLD offering interior design, high & (www.boldconceptstore.lv), Latvian fashion brands are brand has participated in the example, child actress Kylie contemporary fashion and a cafe. M50 (Miera iela 17; m50.lv) offers whose goal is to become the becoming more and more Paris Men’s Fashion Week since Rogers wore a dress designed by This concept store breaks the a considerably more democratic biggest platform for exclusive popular in the local market, 2012. Lazy Francis at the premiere of borders between the different approach to Latvian fashion Baltic design. Here you’ll find and they’re becoming noticed David Frankel’s film Collateral design scenes to offer guests a design. Many of the things for sale the most exciting names in local elsewhere in the world as well. The Elīna Dobele footwear brand Beauty in New York. And the creative shopping experience. here are handmade and one-of- design as well as clothing from designed by architect Elīna brand’s Silent Circus collection Here you can find a unique a-kind. In addition, many artists intriguing designers from the two Mareunrol’s was listed as Dobele is a favourite not only in was created with the approval selection of internationally have chosen M50 to be the sole neighbouring Baltic countries. one of the top 100 best new Latvia and the Baltics but also Charlie Chaplin’s family. known Interior fashion brands representative of their work, so contemporary designers by the further afield in Europe and Asia. You are also very welcome to their creations cannot be found prestigious Phaidon publishing All of its shoes are handmade, The luxury brand Aristocrat house in its 2013 almanac Pattern. each pair of shoes has a special Kids, whose signature collection In addition to fashion, Mareunrol’s name, and their design is often68 consists of fairytale-worthy has also made a vivid entrance in inspired by architecture. Perhaps dresses for girls, can be found in the fields of scenography, video it’s no surprise that Dobele exclusive shopping destinations, art and photography. It won the approaches footwear as if she including Isetan Shinjuku in Tokyo main prize at the International were creating miniature houses and Harrods in London, for which Fashion and Photography Festival for feet. it has even created a special in Hyères and was among the collection. ten finalists for the legendary Latvian children’s fashion has Woolmark Prize in 2016. The also become quite popular. For CONCEPT STORES

There is a strong tradition of popularising local fashion. well as those who prefer classic fashion design in Latvia, and The largest platform for Latvian cuts and designs. In recent years wearing clothing by local fashion design is the Paviljons it has also been operating a designers is a matter of both concept store (Shopping centre pop-up store in Berlin, where it style and pride for Rigans. Latvian Domina, paviljons.com). With its acts as an ambassador for Latvian fashion concept stores, each eclectic approach, it’s an inspiring fashion. with its own character and style, address for those who enjoy have also played their part in rapidly changing street fashion as

69 Image House 84 85 LATVIAN DESIGN IN THE WORLD

Glass, linen and wax – these are which combines tradition, best packaging in the world. The three materials that, masterfully handicraft and unusual, explicitly brand now creates exclusive interpreted, have allowed Latvian contemporary design – has items for the home that have designers to gain international caught the eye of Italian been designed by Zane Tetere- recognition. fashion master Giorgio Armani. Šulce, a locally and internationally Studio Natural’s products have renowned architect. Its products ACTIVE LIFESTYLE Artis Nīmanis, the designer repeatedly been exhibited in feature clean lines, and they at an&angel, uses a special the Maison & Objet trade fair for continue to be hand-made of technique he has developed to interior design in Paris as well natural materials by skilled give glass a seemingly metal-like as at design fairs in Japan. The craftsmen: weavers, blacksmiths appearance. Having taken on the brand specialises in linen home70 and potters. Munio Home qualities of stainless steel, the textiles featuring a variety of franchise stores can be found glass reflects the surrounding textures, linen scarves in finely worldwide, and the brand also environment, while the inside of nuanced tones and clothing with takes part in the prestigious the vessels brings to mind copper, the ”noble, wrinkled” look so Maison & Objet and Abitare 100% silver and even gold. An&angel characteristic of linen. Project design fairs in Paris and has won the prestigious Red Dot Verona, respectively. and German Design awards. Its Munio Home started out vessels are also in the collection by designing a line of fine, of the Latvian National Museum handmade, soy-wax candles. of Art. Their special packaging, made of recycled cardboard, was Textile artist Laima Kaugure even recognised by the World and her brand Studio Natural – Packaging Organisation as the WAKEBOARDING IN RIGA

The range of water activities structures (a slide, pipe, funbox, beginners as well as professionals. available in Riga has grown in half ramp, kickers) for various In addition, the park offers many the past decade to also include wakeboarding tricks, specialists in other outdoor activities to choose wakeboarding, with wake parks the sport have deemed it one of from. But the true adrenaline and ”Glass, linen and wax – these are three and wakeboarding spots opening the best parks in the Baltics. active leisure fans will enjoy the materials that, masterfully interpreted, have up one after the other in the Closest to the city centre are multi-functional complex 333. allowed Latvian designers to gain international Latvian capital. the Riga Wake Lucavsala and It’s located in about 20 min drive recognition. The Wakeyou cable wake park Wake 24 cable wake parks. The away from the city center and is is located very near the Riga former is located in the Lucavsala perfect for a day of adrenaline on Airport, literally under low-flying Recreation Park near the Salu water. aircraft. With several special Bridge and has equipment for 86 71 87 ” SAILING

Sailing as a recreational and shapes and sizes on the Daugava ships dry-docked in Mīlgravis. professional sport has been River in central Riga. taking place in Latvian waters The yacht clubs and boat for over a century. July is usually A wide range of sailing and moorings are also prominent the most active month for sailing motorised watercraft can be seen points of city life in Riga. The competitions, when many Latvian in the waters of Riga on a daily Andrejosta Yacht Club is located sailors take part in international basis during the sailing season. It next to the ferry terminal on regattas. Competitions, is precisely water transportation the right bank of the Daugava championships and regattas that opens the door to River in the city centre, and on are also held annually on the experiences that are otherwise summer evenings it even has a Daugava River and Ķīšezers Lake hidden to everyday life on dry touch of the Mediterranean. On in Riga. When larger international land: see different views of the the opposite bank is the new regattas are held in the Latvian buildings along the waterfront,72 City Yacht Club with its ascetic capital, it is not uncommon to watch construction work in the floating houses. see more than 100 yachts of all port, or get close to the large

CROSS – COUNTRY SKIS

It is said that there are places Mežaparks has the longest history On the left bank of the Daugava where all children are born of public-access cross-country River, at the foot of the 79-metre- with downhill skis on their feet. skiing for Riga city dwellers. Every high Victory Monument, is the In Riga it is said they’re born winter a 2.5-kilometre classic- 1.25-kilometre Uzvaras Park cross- GOLF CLUBS with cross-country skis. With style ski trail and a 1-kilometre country track. It remains lighted its ample, flat expanses, Riga free-style cross-country ski loop throughout the night and lets you seems made for cross-country is opened near the open-air enjoy skiing while at the same Among European capitals, Riga bunkers, sits on the shores of to hit the ball across a pond. The skiing during the snowy months stage in Mežaparks’ recreational time keeping pace with the pulse is unique in that the peaceful, Kišezers Lake, which poses a Viesturi golf course is surrounded of the year. Weather permitting, park. Riga’s longest cross-country of the city. A completely different green, wide-open areas suitable special challenge to golfers, by dense forest, so, in addition cross-country skiing can be done ski trail, however, is found in mood can be experienced on for the game of golf are found especially during windy weather. to a few golfing challenges, almost anywhere in Riga. During Biķernieki. Although typically the 3-kilometre ski trail on the quite close to the city centre. players might even see some wild the winter season, there are also used for motor sports and racing, grounds of the Viesturi golf club. In the northern part of the The smaller, nine-hole Viesturi animals up close. Sometimes roe 73several well-maintained cross- in winter the 4.7-kilometre As you glide through the forest, city known as Vecmīlgrāvis lies golf course on the southern side deer and even wild boar can be country skiing trails in places like Biķernieki Track is prepared for you might even catch an up-close the Ozo Golf Club, which is of the city holds the distinction seen wandering down the forest Pārdaugava, Biķernieki Forest and both classic and skate skiing and glimpse of wild animals roaming also included on the list of the of being the first golf course in paths in the early morning or Mežaparks. Many of these trails is wide enough to accommodate freely. world’s best golf courses. This Latvia. Here, too, the proximity of evening hours. are free of charge and operate experienced skiers as well as very special golf course, with water makes for a more exciting around the clock. families with children. 7416 artificial ponds and 50 sand game by compelling every player 88 89 FISHING

Riga has its own very enthusiastic immunity to the cold. People of Ķīšezers Lake. They know fishing community. Already often joke about how the ice where to find the best fishing a local legend, the ”eternal fishermen show up on the river spots – where the pike and perch fishermen” working right next even before the ice has formed. hide in the reeds and shallows, to the shipping lanes in the And the toughest of them where the zander’s favourite Daugava River can be seen in all stubbornly await their catches holes and strong currents are weather conditions. During the until the final thaw of spring has located, and where to find harshest of winters, when the set in, when the ice has become schools of fish that have been Daugava freezes over, something dangerously thin and has even pushed by winds from the Baltic unique can be observed in the begun to recede from the Sea into the river and lakes. very centre of Riga – the river is riverbanks. peppered with fishermen seated on the ice, immensely patient The real fishing-hole experts,75 and armed with an admirable however, are found in the vicinity www.RigasLaivas.lv ICE-SKATING BOATING AND SUP BOARDING

In a city where winter – whether deftly carve figure eights in the also opened in Uzvaras Park harsh or gentle – lasts for ice. When the temperature falls and Sniega Parks (Snow Park) in four months, ice-skating as a below freezing, many sites on Mežaparks. Ice-skating rinks are Riga’s extensive waterways – known adventure organisation you go up against the waves, recreational activity is quite both sides of the Daugava River also set up near many schools the Daugava River, its bays and Luzumpunkts also offers popular you’ll appreciate the grandeur of popular. During the cold season, are transformed into outdoor and in the city centre. tributaries, the twists and turns boating routes in Riga and its the urban structures, including there is no lack of places in Riga, skating venues. The skatepark of the city canal, Baltezers and surroundings. the major bridges, otherwise indoors or out, to practise your in Grīziņkalns is turned into an Ķīšezers lakes – provide a unique rarely experienced from below. favourite ice-skating figures or ice-skating rink, and rinks are opportunity to explore the city in Typically, the kayaking and SUP Several of the river routes run a completely different way. That is, routes start on the city canal, around the lush greenery of by meditatively gliding across the which runs underneath several Zaķusala and Lucavsala islands. 76 water on an SUP board or kayak. small bridges. There, you’ll enjoy The most challenging route is to the old and modern architecture the Riga shipyard, where you can 77Many SUP enthusiasts, such as of Riga, experience the magic of sail under the monstrous hulls of those at Riga Wake Park and its parks, and touch the rainbows gas tankers, passenger ships or Burusports, organise tours on created by the fountains before fishing vessels on dry docks and the city canal, the Daugava heading further into the vast get a look at the huge propellers. River and beyond. The well- waters of the Daugava River. As 90 91 SKATEBOARDING CYCLING

Riga’s community of ”boarders on Ghetto Games, the best-known Meanwhile, long boarders Many other cycling enthusiasts run cycling wheels” is currently divided into street sports movement in Latvia. use their boards as a fast and shops, workshops, cafés and bicycling two distinct groups of enthusiasts: Riga’s largest indoor skate park convenient form of transport movements, thereby supporting an active the classic skateboard group is Monsterparks. But currently through the streets and sidewalks lifestyle in an urban environment and promoting and the longboard group. the most popular skate spot in of the cityscape. The longboard sports and entertainment for fans of all Skateboarders do their tricks and Latvia – and a cult site of sorts, community also holds organised kinds of cycling. Of these events, the most stunts in the city’s skateparks, thanks to the tireless efforts of events and rides all year round, special is probably Riga Bike Week. During the most renowned of which is the internationally acclaimed but the real virtuosos of this this celebration, the Steel Vintage bicycle ride the Grīziņkalns skate park. This Latvian skateboarder Madars niche prove themselves at for road and track bicycles made before 1995 park was one of the first of its Apse – is the plaza in front of the downhill races outside of Riga. shows off older bicycles, while the Tweed Ride kind in Riga and gave rise to the National Library of Latvia. showcases retro bicycles and garb. The event 78 80also highlights some of the current trends in urban bicycle culture, such as activities featuring fixed-gear bicycles.

Every day, however, you’ll see the most vibrant mix of different kinds of cyclists on the streets of Riga – from athletic cyclists audaciously joining the flows of motorised traffic, to TENNIS TRADITIONS everyday cyclists following special bicycle paths, to urban connoisseurs on the Spīķeri and Ķengarags promenades along the Daugava River. During the warm season, a ”hot” route is Ever since Rigan Jeļena Ostapenko’s all seasons, both indoors and out. the Riga–Jūrmala bicycle trail, which follows the sensational victory in the summer Among the biggest tennis clubs are railway line outside the city, through the pine of 2017 at the Stade Roland Garros in the two Enri clubs, the Centrālais forests to the seaside beaches. the French Open finals in Paris, Riga’s Tenisa Klubs (Central Tennis Club) tennis traditions and local tennis and the tennis club owned by Rīgas courts have been thrust into the satiksme (Riga Transport) located in limelight. the suburb of Mežaparks. The ACB Tennis Club is located in Mārupe, just Nowadays in Riga and its suburbs, outside of Riga. 79on both banks of the Daugava River, there is a growing number of opportunities to play tennis in

92 93 A GLASS LIFT – UP TO THE 26TH-FLOOR UNTRADITIONAL BAR AT THE RADISSON BLU HOTEL LATVIJA

Skyline, the bar on the 26th floor city. Brīvības Street (or Brīvības an arm’s length away are the five of the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija Boulevard, as this section of the golden domes of the Riga Nativity VIEWPOINTS is possibly the most popular main artery is called) stretches of Christ Orthodox Cathedral. observation platform in all of down below like a precisely The Radisson’s 26th floor also Riga. The modern panorama lift measured line through the provides an unusual perspective has glass walls and catapults you middle of the city. At the height of the Freedom Monument. Don’t upwards along the outside of of summer, when the trees are forget to also come up here later the building, as if through time green and full, it seems that a in the evening, when all of the 40 81and into a completely different forest has taken over the city. Just street lights have been turned on.

OLD AND NEW TOWERS OF RIGA – AS SEEN FROM THE LEFT BANK OF THE DAUGAVA

The skyline of Riga’s historical the Baroque-style tower of with the historical styles, such centre, which enjoys UNESCO the City Hall (Rātsnams), Riga as the Ministry of Agriculture World Heritage Site status, Castle and the high-rise Latvian building and the Radisson Blu is best viewed from the left Academy of Sciences building. In Hotel Latvija built in the Soviet bank of the Daugava River. Its addition to these classics, there Modernism style. But these main features include several are also a few structures whose buildings are nevertheless a part church and cathedral towers, architecture does not fit as well82 of the skyline today.

94 95 ACADEMY OF SCIENCES VIEWING RIGA FROM THE HIGHEST POINT – PLATFORM – A VIEW ACROSS THE THE ZAĶUSALA TELEVISION TOWER

MARKET AND TRAINS You can’t get any higher than this! At 368.5 metres, the Riga Radio and Television Tower, also known as the The Latvian Academy of Sciences Western culture, for example, the most intriguing area to watch is Zaķusala TV Tower, is not only the building in Riga is one of the Manhattan Municipal Building in the nearby Central Market. Its highest tower in the Baltic States but most striking examples of New York City. iconic architecture – five former also the third highest tower in Europe. Socialist Realism architecture in zeppelin hangars – form a special From here, you can really get a bird’s-eye Latvia. There is an unmistakable On the 17th floor of the Academy visual dialogue with the five view of the city. similarity between it and the of Sciences building, 65 metres83 arches of the Railway Bridge in 85 ”Seven Sisters” in Moscow – above ground, a viewing the background. The viewing platform is located 98 seven high-rises whose form, platform opens up to a broad metres above the ground and provides in turn, was borrowed from view of the city. Perhaps the a view of the Latvian capital and all of its suburbs. Here you can see the geographic placement in the Daugava River of the city’s lush, green islands, including long, tongue-shaped Zaķusala GALLERIA RIGA TERRACE – BETWEEN Island right below your feet. THE ROOFTOPS AND CHIMNEYS

Take a surreal stroll between an arm’s length away. And what each time you’ll notice something the city’s rooftops – and enjoy a all can be seen from up here! different: a special architectural 360-degree panorama – on the Square, round and pyramid- detail, decorative sculpture or rooftop terrace of the seven- shaped towerlets; brick chimneys unusual construction. storey Galleria Riga shopping in various colours; glass-topped centre. Here it seems that the stairwells... Come here at 84roofs across the street are just different times of the day, and

96 97 FIVE BRIDGES – FIVE DIFFERENT DAUGAVA PROMENADE – WHERE LINKS ACROSS THE DAUGAVA ”THE COUNTRY ENTERS THE CITY” IN ĶENGARAGS The five bridges of Riga, which railing of the romantic Akmens really a part of the city centre, link the city centre on the right (Rock) Bridge features wrought- this newest of Riga’s bridges can bank of the Daugava River and iron ornamentation and eight be seen from the middle of Salu In the southeastern part of Riga, can experience both the cyclic a sort of open-air street-art the suburbs on the left bank, fancy, cast-iron lanterns set on Bridge. a landscaped pedestrian and character of nature as well as gallery. The path features several are significant features of the granite pillars. In the evenings, bicycle promenade stretches for the rapid changes in the urban pedestrian bridges and viewing cityscape. They can be seen from the five arches of the Dzelzceļa The bridges themselves provide over three kilometres along the environment. As you gaze at the terraces, including a bird- the highest viewing platforms in (Railway) Bridge are lighted up wonderful views of the city and right bank of the Daugava River. wild and untouched banks across watching tower. Climb to the top the city as well as from below (for in blue and white, reflecting86 a the river. Depending on your Here you can find something the Daugava River on one87 side, of the tower and look towards example, on a boat), and each surreal counterpart in the waters mood, feel the wind in your face that many other European on the other you’ll pass a fence central Riga – to the Dienvidu has its own character and energy. of the Daugava. Salu (Islands) while walking across a bridge, or capitals lack, namely, the surrounding the former Sarkanais Bridge and the television tower The pylon of the Vanšu (Cable) Bridge is the longest bridge across find shelter from the wind, for proximity of green spaces almost kvadrāts (Red Square) rubber on Zaķusala Island – and you’ll Bridge is 109 metres high and the Daugava within Riga. And, example, in the pedestrian tunnel untouched by human hands. factory, established in the 1930s. easily catch the feeling of nature holds the cables that support the although the orange, multi-pylon under Salu Bridge. Here on the promenade one Today, the fence has become entering the city and vice versa. 312-metre span of the bridge. The Dienvidu (South) Bridge is not

SPĪĶERI PROMENADE – ACROSS FROM ZAĶUSALA ISLAND

The Spīķeri Promenade is a connected to the Spīķeri Quarter canal enters the Daugava, next recently opened public outdoor by a tunnel under the main road, to the Railway Bridge, and leads space that has not only helped to stretches along the banks of the to the foot of the Salu Bridge. regenerate a formerly degraded Daugava River across from the There, on the other side of Krasta yet unique part of the city; it television complex on Zaķusala Street, begins Maskavas Forštate has also provided city residents Island. Sit here for a while and (Moscow Suburb) – another with a wonderful place to take watch the light and shadows unique district of Riga with a a walk and spend some free play on the shimmering waters historical charm all its own. 88time right in the centre of the or wind-whipped waves. The city. The promenade, which is promenade begins where the city 98 99 – That’s because this building Cathedral with its copper roof. manage to get back to your room BIBLIOTĒKA N°1 A RESTAURANT belongs to the Museum of the After a good night’s rest, it’s worth and watch another sunset from History of Riga and Navigation. visiting the museum and, towards the window. After all, no two But of course, the most evening, attending a concert in sunsets are alike. WITH A VIEW OF VĒRMANES GARDEN prominent feature seen from the the cathedral featuring its mighty room is the stately tower of Riga organ. Afterwards, you can still

At the request of Anna Gertrud by two sculptures of reclining atmosphere and magic for Wöhrmann (Anna Ģertrūde lions. And the Bibliotēka N°1 yourself. The mood from outside Vērmane), the largest donor to restaurant has found a home often sneaks into the restaurant this park funded completely by near where the pavilion used as well – a frightened flock of public donations, various exotic to stand. Because the park is pigeons in the park rising up into tree species and a rose garden located between some of the the air can make lunch guests were established in the park. city’s busiest streets, you can put down their forks and pause Naturally, a pavilion was built spend a peaceful (or exciting)89 their conversations for a brief, as well. Today, a monument to afternoon people-watching from wonderful moment. Wöhrmann stands in the middle the restaurant’s large windows, of a round bed of roses, guarded capturing some of the park’s

VIEW FROM ROOM 602 AT THE NEIBURGS HOTEL

Sometimes it’s much nicer to Room 602 of the Neiburgs hotel. Riga’s history. To wit, the first curl up in front of the window in After a day of walking around the thing you’ll notice outside the a comfortable, warm room and city, settle in up here with a glass room’s windows is a small globe watch the storm clouds moving of wine and enjoy the view of the adorning the roof of the building across the sky, the sun reflecting sunset. across the street. If you take a off the red tile roofs and the closer look, under the globe is a seagulls circling around. Luckily, This experience can also be sign made of forged metal that 90just such a scenario is possible in combined with a small tour of reads ”Museum”.

100 101 LEGENDARY EDUARDS SMIĻĢIS (1886–1966) ”The more fantastic, the more personality in the history of The Smiļģis family property in the passionate, the more daring, 20th-century Latvian theatre. Pārdaugava district of Riga (37/39 the better!” said Latvian theatre He is a legend, a person who Eduarda Smiļga Street) is also a director and actor Eduards ”established his own galaxy”. To significant site in Latvian theatre RIGANS Smiļģis (1886–1966), thereby this day, the moniker ”a Smiļģis history. It is the home of the capturing the essence of art. actor” requires no additional Eduards Smiļģis Theatre Museum, Smiļģis, who founded the Daile comment in local cultural circles, which highlights not only the Theatre in Riga, is considered even though most of those legendary director but also some a reformer of Latvian dramatic worthy of the title are no longer of the most vivid moments in 91art and the most illustrious alive. Latvian theatre.

FRIEDRICH ZANDER (1887–1933)

Friedrich Zander - one of the avantgarde and even futuristic acceleration for the further most eminent inventors in the inventor, Zander mathematically journey to Mercury. history of rocketry was born calculated the trajectory of the in Riga. The name of rocket flight to Mars while still a student The University of Latvia has designer Friedrich Zander can at Riga Polytechnic Institute. He recently established the Zander be found in two other places: in also modelled the complexity of Memorial Museum of Space Kislovodsk in Russia, where he interplanetary travel, focussing on Exploration, located within departed from this world, and on preparations for his own utopian the university complex. The the moon, where in 1970 a crater dream – to be among those who exhibition features displays on was named after him. It was set foot on these celestial bodies. Friedrich Zander himself, space precisely Zander’s invention of a research and the history of jet-propelled engine that runs on Admittedly, half a century after92 astronomy. It also features the liquefied oxygen and petrol that Zander’s death a number of his largest meteorite collection in drew humankind closer to space ideas have actually come to the Baltics, old astronomical travel and its first steps on the fruition, with no mention of the instruments and books. surface of the moon. originator of these ideas. Among Meanwhile, the Latvian Academy these is the idea of ”gravity of Sciences continues its tradition One of Zander’s greatest passions assist”, used by the automatic of awarding the Friedrich Zander was researching the fourth interplanetary station Mariner-10 Award for scientific research in planet from our sun, Mars. An when orbiting Venus to gain mechanics and astronomy. 102Eduards Smilgi’s study in the Theater Museum named after him 103 MIKHAIL EISENSTEIN (1867–1921) AND MIKHAIL TAL (1936–1992) – SERGEI EISENSTEIN (1898 1948) ”The magician from Riga” – this He also changed chess strategy For example, inspired by Tal, was the nickname of legendary forever. the new Tal Residence features chess player Mikhail Tal, who, During the highest point in 21st-century architecture that Thanks to the surname Eisenstein, subtly humorous buildings he and raised in Riga until the age in the spring of 1960, used his professional chess playing successfully complements the Riga entered the world of cinema designed. The best known of of 17, Sergei went on to direct tactics based on intuition and career – the years between 1968 Art Nouveau neighbourhood of and architecture. The city was these is definitely the building Battleship Potemkin (1925), a film improvisation to topple the and 1982 – Tal had a record- the city. And a monument to Tal the home to the Russian Empire’s at 10b Elizabetes Street, with its about a mutiny on a battleship rational, academic and seemingly breaking 81.18% percentage of in Vērmanes Park is the venue for most distinguished architect, long, pensive mascaron faces, that is considered probably the undefeatable Soviet chess idol wins, achieved in 101 games the opening of the city’s ”chess Mikhail Eisenstein, as well as the peacocks and surreal, robotic finest example of filmmaking ever Mikhail Botvinnik from his throne. of chess in master-level season”. The silver-haired chess birthplace of his son, the notable characters that seem to be made. Like a powerful magnet, Tal was only 24 years old at the tournaments. enthusiasts and their spectators Soviet film director Sergei enacting a live, architectural play. he has inspired such legends time and became the eighth The chess grandmaster is still have become an integral part of Eisenstein. The façades of several other in filmmaking as Jean-Jacques and youngest world champion. a living legend in Riga today. summer in the city. buildings in Riga ”directed” by93 Annaud and Peter Greenaway 94 In his day, the extravagant Jewish Mikhail Eisenstein feature similar (who in 2015 came out with architect created true drama dramatic figures, and such a Eisenstein in Guanajuato, a film in the architecture of Riga by concentration of his work can be about Eisenstein’s time in Mexico) helping bring to it qualities of found nowhere else. to make pilgrimages to Riga. In the avantgarde Art Nouveau all, Eisenstein directed only seven style of that era. And drama The architect’s son inherited this films during his lifetime, but is in fact the correct word, knack for directing, albeit in the these films began a revolution – considering the reaction of the world of cinema. Sergei Eisenstein in filmmaking, proving that ISAIAH BERLIN (1909 1997) public back then – both wonder was one of the world’s best film cinema is able to express abstract and condemnation – regarding directors and revolutionised the thoughts through the use of the unusual, decorative and technique of film montage. Born specific, concrete images. ”I am Isaiah Berlin, and I come the eminent Soviet film producer distinguished thinker in Latvia. from Riga.” That is how the British Sergei Eisenstein, and to his dying Every year one of Berlin’s philosopher of Jewish origin – day considered himself a Rigan, philosophical topics that is one of the brightest minds of most of the philosopher’s life pertinent to a current issue is the 20th century, who will be was spent in Oxford working for chosen as a theme. 2014 saw remembered in history primarily Great Britain. Sir Isaiah Berlin was the release of the film Escaping for analysing the concept of conferred numerous honorary Riga, produced by Dāvis Sīmanis, liberty – usually introduced titles, among them a British which tells about the lives of two himself. knighthood. boys who are neighbours – Isaiah Berlin and Sergei Eisenstein – Although Berlin spent the first Isaiah Berlin Day was established95 and their time spent in Riga and years of his life on Alberta Street in Riga in order to highlight beyond. together with his contemporary, the philosophical ideas of this

104 Building on Strelnieku iela 4a designed by M.Eisenstein 105 A number of addresses in Riga reveal certain details about the the work of sculptor August VERA MUKHINA (1889–1953) are associated with Wagner, and city: places where Wagner lived; Volz, whose portrait relief of the Latvian National Opera and the building where, in addition to the composer is located in the Ballet offers an excursion titled his duties as the chief conductor current opera and ballet building, Riga is the birthplace of the and protect a symbol of Latvian museum has been established ”Wagner: a legend of Riga”, which at the Riga City Theatre, he spent and a sculpture of Wagner by renowned Russian sculptor Vera independence, the Freedom at 23/25 Turgeņeva Street, where reveals the Riga that Wagner time composing Rienzi; and the Latvian sculptor Gleb Panteleyev, Mukhina. Her best-known work is Monument. At the time, the ruling Mukhina and her family lived knew – the places where the Riga City Theatre itself, which left located by the entrance to the Worker and Kolkhoz Woman. At a powers of the Latvian SSR were until she was three years old. The composer lived, worked and an indelible impression on him. New Hall. height of 24 metres and weighing discussing the demolition of the 19th-century, Empire-style, wooden visited. Thus, these few pages of In its pursuit of Wager’s steps, 75 tonnes, the sculpture was made monument, and a monument house was typical of Riga’s Russian the famous composer’s biography the tour route also highlights for the Soviet Union’s pavilion at to Stalin was proposed for the merchants at the time. the 1937 World Fair in Paris. It won site. Championing the artistic a gold medal at the fair and also value of the Latvian monument, The graņonka drinking glass praise from 20th-century art genius Mukhina categorically opposed its designed by Mukhina also became Pablo Picasso. Today the sculpture demolition, and her authority was an icon of the Soviet era. At its is exhibited by the entrance to respected. 96peak of popularity, 600 million of the VDNKh exhibition centre in the glasses were produced every Moscow. The flax and hemp warehouses year, and they could be bought at that once belonged to Mukhina’s every household goods store. After Even though Mukhina spent most family still stand in the Moscow several years of decline, the glasses of her life in Soviet Russia, she District of Riga. Now known as are now becoming highly valued played an important part in a very the Spīķeri, the former warehouse as a retro item and a fine example significant moment of Latvian quarter is one of the most vivid of design, so don’t be surprised to history. In 1945, she travelled from architectural reminders of the find them at bars and cafés in Riga. Moscow to Riga in order to defend city’s industrial past. A memorial

RICHARD WAGNER (1813–1883)

”Riga has been described to me heading to Riga. However, due two acts of his opera Rienzi in as the most wonderful place to unpaid loans and ongoing Riga. This opera, which brought on earth, particularly when it legal proceedings against the him worldwide fame, was only comes to earning money...” So composer, the time he spent performed once in Riga – in wrote world-famous German in Riga was brief – only from 1878 – but it returned to the city composer and opera reformer 1837 to 1839. And yet, these two in 2014 with a production led by Richard Wagner in a letter to years were steeped in creativity. Danish director Kirsten Dehlholm. his wife, Minna, shortly before Wagner composed the first

97106 From Wagner’s opera Tannhauser in Latvian National Opera and Ballet107 VIJA CELMIŅŠ (1938) GUNĀRS BIRKERTS (1925–2017)

Although the world-famous takes on a precise and hard ripple In 2014, Celmiņš ”returned” to Riga Riga – the birthplace of well-known Latvian- Latvian-American artist Vija effect due to its fine lines. with a sweeping retrospective American architect Gunārs Birkerts – has Celmiņš spent only the first six titled Dubultā realitāte (Double forged a place for itself on the global map years of her life in Riga, where Every piece of graphic art created Reality) at the Riga Bourse Art of architecture. Birkerts, whom fate led away she was born, Latvia is always by Celmiņš takes several months Museum. The same year saw the from Latvia in 1943 and later to Germany mentioned alongside her name in to complete. Using graphite release by the Juris Podnieks and the United States, always thought of prestigious museum exhibitions. on paper, she conjures up an Studio of the documentary himself as belonging to the school of Nordic infinitely deep world, be it the film Teritorija Vija Celmiņš (Vija modernism. From 1968 to 1981, he realised The main focus of Celmiņš’ works starry heavens, a desert or an Celmiņš: Reinterpreted), filmed one of the most innovative projects of his is the relationship between the ocean. Collectors are prepared to when visiting the artist in New day, the Federal Reserve Bank in Minneapolis, surface of an image and the wait practically a whole lifetime York and Long Island. Minnesota – a project that brought him depth of space. She is interested and pay big money for her work. global renown. He also designed the much- 99 in creating various settings using In 2012, Celmiņš’ drawing Untitled98 In 2017, Celmiņš donated two admired Corning Museum of Glass in New the options that different graphic #8 sold for 1,142,500 dollars works of graphic art to the York State and the University of Michigan art techniques provide. Her at Christie’s auction house in Latvian National Museum of Art: Law Library Addition. mezzotint ocean looks like a soft, New York, bringing the artist an Untitled (Ocean mezzotint, 2016) flowing mass with a foggy, wispy all-time record price. and Untitled (Ocean drypoint, But Birkerts always considered his most focus, while her drypoint ocean 2016). important lifetime achievement to be the National Library of Latvia, also referred to as the Castle of Light (2014). Like Latvian folklore and folk songs, which Birkerts’ parents had studied extensively, the building is saturated with symbolism and metaphor. In 2000, the National Library of Latvia project won the American Architecture Award established by the Chicago Athenaeum Museum of Architecture and Design.

108 Interior of the Latvian National Library. 109 OPERA AND BALLET STARS

The grand Latvian National Opera and Ballet building in the very centre of Riga, built in a Hellenised Classicism style, is like a rare oyster that has allowed genuine pearls to grow concealed in its mantle – natural jewels that the city can be proud of in a global context. A number of world-renowned classical music, opera and ballet stage greats are associated with Riga and Latvia. These are talents that have been highly acclaimed by the world’s best opera houses, from the Royal Opera in London’s Covent Garden to the Metropolitan Opera in New York.

In the mid-20th century the world was to discover famous Latvian 100ballet dancer Māris Liepa (1936–1989), a member of the Moscow Bolshoi Theatre troupe who was awarded the Marius Petipa Prize and presented with the Vaslav Nijinsky Prize by the Paris Academy of Dance. Mikhail Baryshnikov (1948), a world-famous principal ballet dancer with the American Ballet Theatre and New York City Ballet, also spent his childhood in Riga.

A number of prominent contemporary opera stars have begun their careers on the stage of the Latvian Opera House. For example, Latvian mezzo-soprano Elīna Garanča (1976), who is no stranger to the stage of the Metropolitan Opera House nor that of Covent Garden. Also Kristīne Opolais (1979), who is one of the world’s new opera stars and regularly performs at the world’s most prestigious opera houses, such as the Metropolitan Opera House, the Vienna State Opera, the Berlin State Opera and the Teatro alla Scala in Milan, working with famous conductors such as Daniel Barenboim, Daniel Harding and Louis Langrée. Internationally acclaimed Latvian tenor Aleksandrs Antonenko (1975) has also gained recognition performing at the Metropolitan Opera House and other venues.

Music critics have included two contemporary Latvian conductors among the world’s best conductors: Mariss Jansons (1943) and Andris Nelsons (1978). In 2016, Jansons was nominated for a Grammy Award, the world’s most prestigious music award, for best orchestral performance; Nelsons, for his part, won the Grammy for best orchestral performance in that same year. Jansons is currently the chief conductor at the Bavarian Radio Symphony Orchestra, while Nelsons is the music director of the Boston Symphony Orchestra. 110Latvian National Opera and Ballet.