INDEX Introduction to Riga 4 Symbols of Riga 6 Architecture 16 Interesting Neighbourhoods 30 Nature 41 Art and Culture Institutions 52 Restaurants, Bars and Cafes 64 Fashion and Design 78 Active Lifestyle 87 Untraditional Viewpoints 94 Legendary Rigans 102 INTRODUCTION TO RIGA Do you know what’s the one Historically, Riga has always been Today, Riga is a cradle for question about Riga visitors to a crossroads, a melting pot of innovative start-ups, and it prides the city most often ask? No, it’s various nations and cultures. But itself in an excellent music and not about the current economic the unique patina in this city of contemporary art scene, the Song situation or what time of year is more than 600,000 inhabitants Festival (which culminates in an best to visit Riga. In fact, it’s more has in large part also been formed open-air concert with 18,000 of an observation than a question: by the proximity of water – the choir singers) and a dynamic ”It feels like Riga is bubbling Daugava River and the Gulf of gastronomy milieu, in which local over with life and has become Riga. chefs compete in their search for something like the creative ”the flavour of Latvia” and thus epicentre of the Baltics. There’s The city has always lived in close bring an appreciative smile to the so much going on, especially in cooperation with nature, which face of many a gourmet traveller. culture. Why exactly Riga, and is still an important part of its why right now?” residents’ daily lives – the many Riga has a glamorous city centre public parks, forests, squares, as well as a hipster republic. This publication, which includes lakes and city canal. Riga has hills It’s possible to arrive in Riga 100 things, places, facts and and islands, as well as beaches. via all three classic means of emotions that define present-day Nesting birds and even beavers transportation – air, land and Riga and its unique vibe, is an call the city home. In addition, water – and the city can be answer to this question. You are considering the relatively observed both from above and holding in your hands the essence compactness of the city, many from a SUP board on the water. of Riga, in all of the diversity, of its sites are within walking Even though geographically untamedness and also historical distance: special urban pulse Riga can be considered a Nordic multi-layeredness that has made points and green relaxation zones, city, its multinational character the city what it is today. From a dynamic city atmosphere and makes it both adventurous symbols of the city, architectural the romance of rural idylls. In the and passionate. And yet, also masterpieces and cultural and springtime, the air in Riga is full of ambitious. Like any city full artistic spaces to various different the heady aroma of lilacs; in the of creative energy, it vibrates, neighbourhoods of the city, autumn, it exudes the melancholy pulsates and astonishes at any fashion, design, gastronomy, of falling yellow and red leaves; time of year. You are holding in your hands the sports activities and unusual in the winter, it sparkles with a ” scenic viewpoints. feeling of wonder after a fresh, essence of Riga, in all of the diversity, white layer of snow. untamedness and also historical multi- layeredness that has made the city what it is today. 4 5 ” SYMBOLS SILHOUETTE OF RIGA OF RIGA The historical centre of Riga, which era. More recent architecture is has been granted UNESCO World found on the other side of the Heritage status, is best seen from river: the Z-Towers (123 and 117.5 the left bank of the Daugava River. meters) built in the last decade, the Its main features are the church Swedbank headquarters building towers concentrated in Old Riga – (121 meters) and also the National St. Peter’s Church, Riga Cathedral, Library of Latvia (66 metres), the 1 St. Jacob’s Cathedral, St. Mary form of which reflects the Old Magdalene Roman Catholic Church Riga silhouette, thereby creating and the Anglican Church – as well a dialogue between the two sides as Riga Castle, the Baroque tower of of the river. Other accents in the City Hall (Rātsnams) and the high- city’s silhouette include industrial rise Academy of Sciences building smokestacks and the water towers (108 metres). In addition to these built at the turn of the 20th century. classics, you’ll also see the Ministry of Agriculture building and the former Latvija (now Radisson Blu) hotel, both built during the Soviet 6 7 ”Although built in honour of soldiers killed in the Latvian War of Independence (1918–1920), today it is a national symbol of FREEDOM MONUMENT unity, independence and freedom. ” The Freedom Monument is a The demolition of the monument symbol that evokes awe in even was discussed during the Soviet era, the most sceptical of Latvians. but the famous Russian sculptor Although built in honour of soldiers (and student of Zāle) Vera Mukhina, who were killed in the Latvian who believed the monument to War of Independence (1918–1920), be of high artistic value, is credited today it is a national symbol of with saving it. Although the placing 2 unity, independence and freedom. of flowers and gathering in larger The project was initiated in 1920, groups at the foot of the monument and the winning design, titled was prohibited during the Soviet ”Shine Like a Star”, was created by occupation, it nevertheless retained Kārlis Zāle. The monument was its symbolic meaning. When the financed with donations from the National Awakening movement people of Latvia and unveiled in began in the late 1980s, the 1935. It is 42 metres tall and made Freedom Monument was the site of of grey and red granite, travertine, demonstrations marking important reinforced concrete and copper. dates in Latvian history. The first The composition consists of such demonstration took place on thirteen groups of sculptures and June 14, 1987, when members of the bas-reliefs depicting the history Helsinki-86 human rights defence and culture of Latvia. Above these group commemorated the victims sculptures rises a 19-metre-tall of mass deportations by the Soviet obelisk with the symbol of Freedom regime. The ceremonial guard at at the top – a young woman who is the monument was reinstated affectionately called Milda by the after the restoration of Latvian people. She holds three gold-plated independence. stars high in the air, which represent the three historical regions of the country: Vidzeme, Latgale and Kurzeme. The inscription at the foot of the monument reads ”For Homeland and Freedom”. 8 9 NOVEMBER 11 EMBANKMENT NATIONAL LIBRARY OF LATVIA The November 11 Embankment city celebrates the shortest night remark that there will eventually (11. novembra krastmala), a street of the year. come a time when only the The new national library of Latvia, that at five o’clock in the morning dainas, or Latvian folk verses. that stretches right along the enemy will be pushed down. also referred to by locals as the on May 4 (the anniversary of the Barons designed the cabinet banks of the Daugava River in One of the most special events Gaismas pils (Castle of Light), was restoration of the independence himself, and it was made in central Riga, is one of the city’s associated with the November November 11, 1919, is symbolically for decades one of the most- of the Republic of Latvia), a ray 1880 in Moscow. He had up until main thoroughfares and has 11 Embankment is the annual considered just such a time. discussed construction projects of light shoots straight up into then kept his collected folklore been of strategic importance observance of Lāčplēsis Day On that day, the army of the in Riga. The need for a new the sky from the very top of the materials in cigar boxes, but he throughout its history. It has on November 11. Lāčplēsis newly independent Latvia was home for the country’s national library. As the sun rises on that transferred them to the new experienced times of flourishing is the Latvian Superman – victorious in its battle against archive of books arose already morning, it supposedly reflects cabinet when the number of as well as many tragic episodes. a mythological figure whose Pavel Bermondt-Avalov and his in the early 1990s, as soon as off the building and shines verses reached about 150,000. For example, along this street is source of incredible strength forces. In commemoration3 of 4Latvia regained its independence. perfectly vertically into the In all, the cabinet holds 217,996 a monument to the people who lies in his bearish ears. Even very this event, on Lāčplēsis Day the That’s when famous Latvian- heavens. four-line folk verses. It was added perished during a demonstration young children are familiar with country pays tribute to all the born architect Gunārs Birkerts to the UNESCO Memory of the on January 13, 1905 – it was here his story, because almost every soldiers who fought in the Latvian (1925– 2017) drew a sketch for just The library contains the original World register in 2001. that they were wounded and household has a copy of the War of Independence, and since such a building, which took more cabinet used by Krišjānis Barons, killed by gunfire, or chased onto Lāčplēsis epic written in the late 1988 people have been gathering than 20 years to come to fruition the best-known collector of the river ice and drowned. 19th century by the poet Andrejs on the banks of the Daugava on and sparked heated debates in Pumpurs, who based his work the evening of November 11 to society.