Bulletin Vol 14. No. 2, JUNE 1996 Antarctic
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A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya. -
The Characterization Analysis of Rob Hall in Everest: Never Let Go Film 2015
Indonesian EFL Journal, Vol. 2(1) January 2016 AISEE p-ISSN 2252-7427 e-ISSN 2541-3635 The Association of Indonesian Scholars of English Education THE CHARACTERIZATION ANALYSIS OF ROB HALL IN EVEREST: NEVER LET GO FILM 2015 Risna Budiarti Department of English Education, University of Kuningan, Indonesia Email: [email protected] Nani Ronsani Thamrin Department of English Education, University of Kuningan, Indonesia E-mail: [email protected] APA Citation: Budiarti, R., & Thamrin, N. R. (2016). The characterization analysis of Rob Hall in Everest: Never Let Go film 2015. Indonesian EFL Journal, 2(1), 71-79 Received: 12-11-2015 Accepted: 23-12-2015 Published: 01-01-2016 Abstract: This research focuses on Rob Hall’s characterizations and moral values found in “Everest: Never Let Go” Film. The aims of this research are to find out Rob Hall’s characterizations portrayed in the Film Everest: Never Let Go and the moral values of the Film. The researcher used the theory about psychological analysis (based on Sigmund Freud in Schultz, 2005) to find out Rob characters through his words or sentences in script of Everest; Never Let Go Film and semiotics theory (based on Roland Barthes, 1968, 1990, 1991) to find out the characteristics of Rob Hall through pictures or signs which show his character in Film “Everest: Never Let Go” with print screen of each pictures or signs, and theory of moral value based on George and Uyanga (2014). Qualitative descriptive method was used by the researcher to find out the characteristic of Rob Hall in Everest: Never Let Go Film and the moral values of Rob Hall characterized in the Film. -
Alicia Jewett Master's Thesis
“Before the practice, mountains are mountains, during the practice, mountains are not mountains, and after the realization, mountains are mountains” – Zen Master Seigen University of Alberta Metaphor and Ecocriticism in Jon Krakauer’s Mountaineering Texts by Alicia Aulda Jewett A thesis submitted to the Faculty of Graduate Studies and Research in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts in Comparative Literature Office of Interdisciplinary Studies ©Alicia Aulda Jewett Fall 2012 Edmonton, Alberta Permission is hereby granted to the University of Alberta Libraries to reproduce single copies of this thesis and to lend or sell such copies for private, scholarly or scientific research purposes only. Where the thesis is converted to, or otherwise made available in digital form, the University of Alberta will advise potential users of the thesis of these terms. The author reserves all other publication and other rights in association with the copyright in the thesis and, except as herein before provided, neither the thesis nor any substantial portion thereof may be printed or otherwise reproduced in any material form whatsoever without the author's prior written permission. Abstract This study examines Jon Krakauer’s three mountaineering texts, Eiger Dreams, Into the Wild, and Into Thin Air, from an ecocritical perspective for the purpose of implicating literature as a catalyst of change for the current environmental crisis. Language, as a means of understanding reality, is responsible for creating and reinforcing ethical ways of understanding our relationship with nature. Krakauer’s texts demonstrate the dangers of using metaphor to conceive nature by reconstructing the events of Chris McCandless’ journey to Alaska, his own experience climbing The Devil’s Thumb, and the 1996 disaster that occurred during his summit of Mount Everest. -
EVEREST – Film at CONCA VERDE on 11.01.16 – Talk by Peter Anderson (From Wikipedia)
EVEREST – Film at CONCA VERDE on 11.01.16 – Talk by Peter Anderson (from Wikipedia) Everest is a 2015 survival film directed by Baltasar Kormákur and written by William Nicholson and Simon Beaufoy. The film stars are Jason Clarke, Josh Brolin, John Hawkes, Robin Wright, Michael Kelly, Sam Worthington, Keira Knightley, Emily Watson, and Jake Gyllenhaal. The film opened the 72nd Venice International Film Festival on September 2, 2015, and was released theatrically on September 18, 2015. It is based on the real events of the 1996 Mount Everest disaster, and focuses on the survival attempts of two expedition groups, one led by Rob Hall (Jason Clarke) and the other by Scott Fischer (Jake Gyllenhaal). Survival films The survival film is a film genre in which one or more characters make an effort at physical survival. It often overlaps with other film genres. It is a subgenre of the adventure film, along with swashbuckler films (film di cappa e spada – like Zorro or Robin Hood), war films, and safari films. Survival films are darker than most other adventure films which usually focuses its storyline on a single character, usually the protagonist. The films tend to be "located primarily in a contemporary context" so film audiences are familiar with the setting, meaning the characters' activities are less romanticized. Thomas Sobchack compared the survival film to romance: "They both emphasize the heroic triumph over obstacles which threaten social order and the reaffirmation of predominant social values such as fair play and respect for merit and cooperation." [2] The author said survival films "identify and isolate a microcosm of society", such as the surviving group from the plane crash in The Flight of the Phoenix (1965) or those on the overturned ocean liner in The Poseidon Adventure (1972). -
Into Thin Air Liberty Review.Pages
Olentangy Local School District Literature Selection Review Teacher: Freshman Literature teachers School: Liberty High School Book Title: Into Thin Air Genre: Non-Fiction Memoir Author: Jon Krakauer Pages: 333 Publisher: Anchor Books/Random House Copyright: 1997 In a brief rationale, please provide the following information relative to the book you would like added to the school’s book collection for classroom use. You may attach additional pages as needed. Book Summary and summary citation: (suggested resources include book flap summaries, review summaries from publisher, book vendors, etc.) When Jon Krakauer reached the summit of Mt. Everest in the early afternoon of May 10, 1996, he hadn't slept in fifty-seven hours and was reeling from the brain-altering effects of oxygen depletion. As he turned to begin his long, dangerous descent from 29,028 feet, twenty other climbers were still pushing doggedly toward the top. No one had noticed that the sky had begun to fill with clouds. Six hours later and 3,000 feet lower, in 70-knot winds and blinding snow, Krakauer collapsed in his tent, freezing, hallucinating from exhaustion and hypoxia, but safe. The following morning, he learned that six of his fellow climbers hadn't made it back to their camp and were desperately struggling for their lives. When the storm finally passed, five of them would be dead, and the sixth so horribly frostbitten that his right hand would have to be amputated. Into Thin Air is the definitive account of the deadliest season in the history of Everest by the acclaimed journalist and author of the bestseller Into the Wild. -
Speaking Abruptly I Gave Them a Parable. I Said, It's the Planet
Speaking abruptly I gave them a parable. I said, it's the planet Neptune I'm talking about, just plain ordinary Neptune, not Para- dise, because I don't happen to know about Paradise. So you see this means you, nothing more, just you. Now there happens to be a big spot of rock I said, up there, and I must warn you that people are pretty stupid up in Neptune, chiefly because they each lived tied up in their own string. And some of them, whom I had wanted to mention in particular, some of them had got themselves absolutely determined about that mountain. You wouldn't believe it, I said, life or death, use or no use, these people had got the habit, and they now spent their spare time and all their energies in chasing the clouds of their own glory up and down all the steepest faces in the district. And one and all they came back uplifted. And well they might, I said, for it was amusing that even in Neptune most of them made shift to chase themselves pretty safely up the easier faces. But anyhow there was uplift, and indeed it was ob- servable, both in the resolute set of their faces and in the gratifica- tion that shone in their eyes. And as I had pointed out, this was in Neptune not Paradise, where, it may be, there perhaps is nothing else to be done. John Menlove Edwards Letter from a Man wo hours into Thai Air flight 311 from Bangkok to Kath- mandu, I left my seat and walked to the rear of the airplane. -
After Thin Air
After Thin Air The legacy of the 1996 Mount Everest tragedy by Michael Chessler ou already know the names of the mountain and the climbers. Climbing mania like this Yhad never happened before. It started with what was supposed to be a routine guided ascent of the highest peak trod by man. The peak had first been climbed a half century before and the public knew only the names of the first two men to climb it. It came as a surprise to the nation that climbers were risking their lives and the lives of their guides while spending great sums of money to climb this peak. And then a sensational magazine article of the ascent led to a best-selling book. Soon everyone wanted to see and hear the author in person. The lectures seemed to go on forever, the media loved it and the multitude of related books became a publisher’s dream come true. Soon everybody was talking about the famed expedition. Climbers and non-climbers alike debated the ethics and propriety of guided mountaineering. The author was thrust into a posi tion as the leading authority on the subject, and everyone was moved by his book and lec tures. He became rich from royalties, and his name will be forever associated with the peak he climbed but once. He is indelibly a part of mountaineering history and literature. Oh! Did you think I was talking about Jon Krakauer, Into Thin A ir and Mount Everest? Heavens, no! I was talking about Albert Smith, The Story of Mont Blanc, and the Mont Blanc mania of the 1850s! Mountaineering, with its media extravaganzas and celebrities, triumphs and tragedies, rule makers and rule breakers, best-selling books and wannabe rebuttals, has been around since the sport was introduced on Mont Blanc by J. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Epilogue The period 1975–90 was indeed a formative and unique period in Australian Himalayan climbing. Chapter 29 looked forward from 1990 and foreshadowed some significant shifts in the nature of mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia that would mark 1990 as a turning point. Now, 20 years later, many of those projections of change have developed into well-established trends. Perhaps the most dominant of all the trends has been the move to commercial expeditions. In the 1970s and 1980s, most Himalayan expeditions were largely do- it-yourself affairs—from initial planning, obtaining a permit and organising the equipment to planning the logistics and arranging the transport from Australia. And all of this time-consuming work was expended before the team even reached Asia and began the walk into the hills to eventually tackle the mountain. From the last decade of the twentieth century there has been a pronounced shift to commercial expeditions. For example, in a survey of Australian Himalayan mountaineering for the period 2001–03, nearly half of the expeditions covered (16 of 33) were commercial.1 The trend is probably due to the rising wealth in general of Australians coupled with the increasing time constraints as contemporary society becomes faster paced, allowing less time for planning and organisation. In addition, the Himalayan region has become more accessible and the number of commercial operators in the big mountains has grown sharply. Two contrasting styles of commercial expedition are important to distinguish. At one extreme lies the fully guided expedition, in which the client is completely taken care of—from armchair to summit. -
Escalating Commitment in the Death Zone New Insights from the 1996 Mount Everest Disaster ⁎ Juan Felipe Aegerter Alvarez, Aferdita Pustina, Markus Hällgren
JPMA-01298; No of Pages 15 Available online at www.sciencedirect.com International Journal of Project Management xx (2011) xxx–xxx www.elsevier.com/locate/ijproman Escalating commitment in the death zone New insights from the 1996 Mount Everest disaster ⁎ Juan Felipe Aegerter Alvarez, Aferdita Pustina, Markus Hällgren Umeå School of Business, Umeå University, 90187 Umeå, Sweden Received 28 July 2010; received in revised form 11 January 2011; accepted 27 January 2011 Abstract The procession of people and organisations that pour resources into evidently failing causes is surprising and seemingly never-ending. This phenomenon, which is called “escalating commitment” (Staw, 1976), refers to situations in which people are incapable of turning future disasters into sound current decisions. The purpose of this paper is to use the, in project management literature (Kloppenborg and Opfer, 2002), non-traditional case of the 1996 Mt Everest disaster to explain and analyse escalating commitment determinants and processes. Not only does the paper identify and add a determinant to escalation but it also treats determinants and processes in a novel and intertwined fashion. The conceptual developments and findings suggest that escalating commitment strives on conditions that are inherent to any project, which consequently project managers should be aware of. Based on the results project failures could be better explained and understood by examining several explanatory levels simultaneously. © 2011 Elsevier Ltd. and IPMA. All rights reserved. Keywords: Escalating commitment; Temporary organizations; Mount Everest; Processes 1. Introduction The runaway tendencies found in IT can be assumed to apply to other industries as well. Outside IT, however, neither The procession of people and organisations that pour resources traditional nor non-traditional project industries have paid a into evidently failing causes is surprising and seemingly never- great deal of attention to escalating commitment. -
Savage-Torgler-CREMA
Center for Research in Economics, Management and the Arts Raumplanung: Rückzonungen sollen Einzonungen ermöglichen THE TIMES THEY ARE A CHANGIN': The effect of institutions on behavior, cooperation, emotional attachmentRené L. andFrey sentiment at 26,000ft Artikel erschienen in Basellandschaftliche Zeitung, 28. November 2012, S. 30, aufgrund des Referats «Mehrwertabschöpfung: Eine politisch-ökonomische Analyse», gehalten am 1. November 2012 in Zürich im Rahmen des «Forums Raumwissenschaften», Universität Zürich und CUREM Beiträge zur aktuellen Wirtschaftspolitik No. 2012-04 Working Paper No. 2013-10 CREMA Südstrasse 11 CH - 8008 Zürich www.crema-research.ch CREMA Gellertstrasse 18 CH-4052 Basel www.crema-research.ch THE TIMES THEY ARE A CHANGIN’: The effect of institutions on behavior, cooperation, emotional attachment and sentiment at 26,000ft David A. Savage QuBE – Queensland Behavioral Economics Group, School of Economics and Finance, Queensland University of Technology, GPO Box 2434, Brisbane, QLD 4001, Australia. Benno Torgler QuBE – Queensland Behavioral Economics Group, School of Economics and Finance, Queensland University of Technology, GPO Box 2434, Brisbane, QLD 4001, Australia. EBS – Universität für Wirtschaft und Recht, EBS Business School, ISBS, Rheingaustraße 1, 65375 Oestrich-Winkel, Germany. CREMA – Center for Research in Economics, Management and the Arts, Gellertstrasse 18, CH-4052, Basel, Switzerland. Abstract This paper attempts to determine if the introduction of a competing social institution has had a significant effect and shifted the pro-social behavior in the extreme (life-and-death) environment of mountaineering in the Hi- malayan Mountains over the last sixty years. We apply an analytic nar- ratives approach to empirically investigate the link between death, success and the introduced social institution (commercialization). -
1. Compare and Contrast What You Know About Rob Hall and Scott Fischer, Two of the Guides on Mount Everest
Writing Assignment: Reflection #1 1. Compare and contrast what you know about Rob Hall and Scott Fischer, two of the guides on Mount Everest. 2. If you were Krakauer, which one would you have leading your expedition, Hall or Fischer? Why? (Remember, Krakauer did not choose Hall, Outside Magazine did based on the deal Hall gave the magazine.) Rob Hall and Scott Fischer are friendly rivals on the mountain, and they have similarities and differences in their climbing approach. When Krakauer meets Hall, he describes him as “six foot three or four and was skinny as a pole. There was something cherubic about his face, yet he looked older than this thirty five years perhaps it was the sharply etched creases at the corners of the eyes, or the air of authority he projected” (33). This contrasts with Fischer’s appearance, which Krakauer describes as “a strapping, gregarious man with a blond ponytail and a surfeit of manic energy” (66). Fischer is five years older than Hall, and he comes across as being much more enthusiac while Hall comes across as commanding the respect of his peers. Hall’s climbing company, Adventure Consultants, is based in New Zealand, while Fischer’s climbing company, Mountain Madness, is based in the United States. Hall and Fischer have two very different approaches to climbing. Hall is especially concerned about his clients’ and his sherpas’ safety. Hall was one of the few guides who was concerned about how his sherpas were treated. Krakauer says, “Rob was always especially concerned about the welfare of the Sherpas who worked for him. -
Catalogue 51: Oct 2014
Top of the World Books Catalogue 51: Oct 2014 Mountaineering This is largely a photographic account of the 1973 Italian expedition to Annapurna. The 11-member team followed the French first-ascent route up to Alpinist Magazine #47. Summer 2014. #26750, $14.95 Camp II on a plateau and then broke off in a new direction up the NW Spur. Accidents in North American Mountaineering. 2014 new. #26810, $12.- They had established Camp III and IV and reached 23,125’ when a storm American Alpine Club Journal. 2014 new. #26809, $49.95 broke. Two members stayed in Camp II while the others descended. Tragically, Abelein, Manfred. Shisha Pangma: Eine Deutsche Tibetexpedition a large ice and rock avalanche swept the plateau and eliminated Camp II and bezwingt den Letzten Achttausender [Shisha Pangma: A German Tibet the two climbers who remained there. The expedition was then abandoned. This Expedition Conquers the Last Eight-thousander]. 1980 Gustav Lübbe book weighs four pounds. First published in 1974, this edition is identical to the Verlag, Bergisch Gladbach, 1st, 4to, pp.216, photo frontis, 168 color & 52 bw first but also includes 24 pages in English. In English and Italian. photos, sketch, photo/map eps, blue cloth; dj fine, cloth fine. #12137, $75.- Bonington, Chris. Everest: South West Face. 1973 Hodder & Stoughton, Abelein (1930-2008) was a German professor of law, politician, pilot, and London, 1st, 8vo, pp.352, 80 color & 15 bw photos, blue cloth; signed Bonington mountaineer. He co-led, along with Günter Sturm, the 1980 German expedition & Doug Scott, dj clipped, else fine, cloth fine.