Writing Assignment: Reflection #1

1. Compare and contrast what you know about and , two of the guides on Mount . 2. If you were Krakauer, which one would you have leading your expedition, Hall or Fischer? Why? (Remember, Krakauer did not choose Hall, Outside Magazine did based on the deal Hall gave the ​ ​ magazine.)

Rob Hall and Scott Fischer are friendly rivals on the mountain, and they have similarities and differences in their climbing approach. When Krakauer meets Hall, he describes him as “six foot three or four and was skinny as a pole. There was something cherubic about his face, yet he looked older than this thirty five years­ perhaps it was the sharply etched creases at the corners of the eyes, or the air of authority he projected” (33). This contrasts with Fischer’s appearance, which

Krakauer describes as “a strapping, gregarious man with a blond ponytail and a surfeit of manic energy” (66). Fischer is five years older than Hall, and he comes across as being much more enthusiac while Hall comes across as commanding the respect of his peers. Hall’s climbing company, , is based in New Zealand, while Fischer’s climbing company, , is based in the United States. Hall and Fischer have two very different approaches to climbing. Hall is especially concerned about his clients’ and his sherpas’ safety. Hall was one of the few guides who was concerned about how his sherpas were treated. Krakauer says, “Rob was always especially concerned about the welfare of the Sherpas who worked for him. Before our group departed Kathmandu, he had sat all of us down and given us an uncommonly stern lecture about the need to show our Sherpa staff gratitude and proper respect.”* (55). Hall also ​ ​ shows his concern for his clients safety by making sure another guide climbs with the slowest climbers and by ordering his team to turn around when the weather turns inclement. On the other hand, Fischer takes a much more risky approach to climbing. “Mountain Madness was an even more accurate reflection of Scott’s personal style. By his early twenties, he had developed a reputation for a harrowing, damn the torpedoes approach to asent. Throughout his climbing career, he survived a number of frightening mishaps that by all rights should have killed him” (66). This attitude is evident when he continued to climb when he impaled his leg and by regularly working out so hard that he threw up (67). One thing that is the same with both climbers is that people were drawn to them. Krakauer says, “People were drawn to Fischer’s energy and generosity, his absence of guile, his almost childlike enthusiasm” (68). He also says, “ Thanks to Hall’s phenomenal success rate he had no trouble filling his roster” (37). Climbers wanted to be around both Hall and Fischer because of their personality, and they both attracted climber that appreciated their climbing style. If I were to have a leader on the expedition, I would choose Hall. The first reason I would choose Hall is his focus on safety. Hall’s primary focus is the safety of his clients; he will turn away from the summit if he feels it isn’t safe. It doesn’t seem like Fischer is concerned about the safety of his clients as much as Hall is. The next reason I would choose

Hall is his success rate. Adventure Consultant’s brochure advertised “the world leader in Everest Climbing, with more ascents than any other organization” (37). Krakauer also said that Hall had a “phenomenal success rate” (37), and “If you were hell­bent on climbing the peak and could somehow come up with the dough, Adventure Consultants was the obvious choice” (38). Hall had a reputation among climbers of keeping his clients safe and getting to the summit; a trusted climbing buddy of Krakauer’s assured Krakauer of Hall’s “sterling reputation” (71). Because of his high success rate and focus on the safety of his clients, I would choose Hall for the leader of my expedition.