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246 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

H a r l e m & Upper MORNINGSIDE HEIGHTS | | | HAMILTON HEIGHTS | SUGAR HILL | WASHINGTON HEIGHTS | INWOOD

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For more detail of this area, see Map p444 A 247 Lonely Planet’s Explore Harlem & Upper Manhattan Top Tip The top half of Manhattan is a lot of territory to cover, Manhattan’s uptown com- with a number of historical sights – many on opposing munities tend to be locally sides of the island. So pick a neighborhood (or better minded, with bars, restau- yet, a couple of contiguous neighborhoods) and stick to rants and shops catering them. If you like your cities to feel a little bit country, to a neighborhood scene. then start with Inwood – which has lovely parks, an ex- These tend to be sleepiest travagant museum and a super chilled-out vibe – and on weekday mornings but then work your way down the west side to the soaring come to life on evenings and Cathedral Church of St John the Divine. Prefer an urban weekends when locals are vibe? Then it’s all about Harlem and Hamilton Heights, out and about. a bastion of African American culture that off ers good To make the most of your eating and shopping, and jazzy places to sip a drink. visit, hit one of the muse- ums or other historic sights in the afternoon, then stick Local Life around for dinner when these areas are at their  Get your chic on When Harlem ladies and gents liveliest. go out on the town, they are usually dressed to the nines. The commercial strip on 125th provides plenty

of shopping opportunities. For glam frocks, hit Swing Best Places to MANHATTAN & UPPER HARLEM (p 260); for killer kicks, head to Atmos (p260 ). 5 Eat  For off -the-beaten-path musical events, Tune in  Charles’ Pan-Fried nothing beats Morningside Heights. Riverside Church Chicken (p 259 ) (p 251), the Cathedral Church of St John the Divine Red Rooster (p 258 ) (p 248) and Columbia University (p251 ) all host regular  concerts.  Mamajuana (p 259 )  Take a hike New Yorkers jogging, hiking and biking  Community Food & Juice is what you’ll fi nd at Inwood Hill Park (p257 ) on any (p 258 ) given sunny day. Join in! For reviews, see p258 A

Getting There & Away Best Places to 6 Drink  Subway Harlem’s main drag – 125th St – is just one  Bier International (p259 ) subway stop from the 59th St–Columbus Circle Station in Midtown on the A and D trains. Other areas of  Yankee Stadium (p 257 ) Harlem and northern Manhattan can be reached on the  Lenox Lounge (p259 ) A/C, B/D, 1/2/3 and 4/5/6 trains. For reviews, see p259 A  Bus Dozens of buses ply the north–south route between upper and lower Manhattan along all the major avenues. The M10 bus provides a scenic trip Best Places to along the west side of Central Park into Harlem. The 7 Browse M100 and the M101 run east to west along 125th St.  Atmos (p 260 )  Taxi If yellow cabs are in short supply, look for livery Nostylgia (p 260 ) cabs (big town cars bearing a company name and  number); negotiate a price before you get in.  Jumel Terrace Books (p 260 )  Malcolm Shabazz Harlem Market (p 252 ) For reviews, see p260 A