Tanzania Highlights of the North 1st to 11th November 2019 (11 days)

Trip Report

Grey-breasted Spurfowl by Nigel Redman

Tour leader: Nigel Redman Trip Report compiled by Nigel Redman

Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 2

Tour Summary Northern Tanzania is the classic safari destination. It is one of the few places where birds take second place to the mammals. And for good reason too. We timed this new Highlights tour to perfection, arriving in the Seronera region of the Serengeti at the height of the Great Migration. At our isolated tented camp, we were surrounded day and night by braying wildebeest and zebras, and at night heard roaring Lions and laughing hyaenas as we tried to sleep. Apart from all this action, there were many other highlights, with no fewer than 32 Lions, three Leopards, two Cheetahs, a magnificent Serval (voted mammal of the trip), large herds of African Elephants, a new-born Impala calf that could barely stand up, and a wide range of typical African megafauna. And then there were the birds! There were so many highlights of these too, but pride of place must go to the endemics and near-endemics, including Grey-breasted Spurfowl, Fischer’s and Yellow-collared Serval by Nigel Redman Lovebirds, Tanzanian Red-billed Hornbill, Rufous-tailed and Taveta Weavers, Ashy Starling, Karamoja Apalis, Athi Short-toed Lark, Stripe-faced Greenbul, Broad-ringed White-eye, Kenrick’s Starling, and of course Beesley’s Lark.

Top Birds Top Mammal Experiences 1st Grey Crowned Crane (14 points) 1st Serval (25 points) 2nd Schalow’s Turaco (11 points) 2nd Wildebeest migration (12 points) 3rd = Southern Ground Hornbill (8 points) 3rd = Lions on rock/feeding on Wildebeest 3rd = Secretarybird (8 points) (11 points) 3rd = Kori Bustard (8 points) 3rd = Leopard (11 points) 3rd = Long-crested Eagle (8 points) 5th Cheetah (10 points)

Grey Crowned Cranes by Nigel Redman

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 3

Tour in Detail On arrival at Arusha, we gathered at our hotel for some casual birding in the garden before enjoying a welcome dinner in the evening. Garden birds included Amethyst, Scarlet-chested and Variable Sunbirds, Baglafecht, Village, Golden-backed and Chestnut Weavers, and Southern Citril, all at close range.

On the first full day of the tour, we headed north along the recently resurfaced road towards the Kenyan border. There was much to see along the roadside, and we made a number of short stops and one longer stop in the Oldonyo Sambu area. We had great views of Yellow-collared Lovebirds close to the road, and many White-fronted Bee-eaters on the wires. Several Abyssinian Wheatears showed well, as did three species of boreal migrant wheatears. A female Pygmy Falcon also put on a great show, devouring a tasty snack. We arrived at the Lark Plains mid-morning and were immediately rewarded with fabulous views of an obliging Rosy-patched Bushshrike. But we were here to see larks and the next couple of hours were spent slowly traversing the bare, unassuming plains. Red-capped and Ashy Starling by Nigel Redman Athi Short-toed Larks showed well, as did a Foxy Lark and a couple of Short-tailed Larks. After a short time, we were soon watching our top target, a Beesley’s Lark, which seemed unconcerned by our presence as it methodically worked the plain, backwards and forwards, searching for food. This rare bird has a tiny range, confined to this small part of Tanzania, and it is thought to number fewer than 250 birds in the world. Other species in the area included numerous Capped Wheatears, a few Taita Fiscals, a pair of Eastern Chanting Goshawks, and great views of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse. Leaving the hot plains behind, we headed to some nearby acacia scrub and riverine acacia woodland (although the river was dry). Here the birds just kept coming. A pair of Fischer’s Starlings was an auspicious start, quickly followed by Southern Grosbeak-Canary, many Banded Parisomas, several immaculate White-headed Mousebirds, a pair of Spotted Eagle Owls, floppy-tailed Red-fronted Warblers, an obliging Bare-eyed Thrush, a Black-necked Weaver at its intricate nest, a stunning male Lilac-breasted Roller by Nigel Redman Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird, and several White-bellied Canaries, to mention just a few of the species we found. Our first day had been a great success, with almost a hundred species without any waterbirds.

Our second day could not have been more of a contrast. We spent the whole day in the exquisite Arusha National Park. This relatively small park has a wonderful diversity of habitats and altitudes, and provided

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 4 an almost endless supply of new birds throughout the day. We found a few new birds on the way to the park, including a Thick-billed Weaver building its nest close to the road. Our birding began in earnest at the park gates where we had prolonged and close views of Brown-breasted Barbet, Cape Robin Chat and Singing Cisticola. Soon after we came to an open area known as ‘Small Serengeti’. The lush grassland and wetland held many African Buffaloes and Plains Zebras, as well as a few Bushbuck. Birds here included Black and Saddle-billed Storks, a pair of Grey Crowned Cranes and a variety of herons. As we headed further into the park, we clocked up a host of new birds such as Trilling Cisticola, Black Cuckooshrike, Hartlaub’s Turaco, Spot-flanked Barbet, White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher and Golden- winged Sunbird. In the lush montane forest at Fig Tree Arch, we spent some time enjoying Broad-ringed White-eyes, a very furtive Black-headed Apalis and an equally skulking White-starred Robin, very tame African Dusky Flycatchers, Eastern Grey Woodpecker, White-necked Raven and Olive Sunbird. Descending to the main circuit road, we circumnavigated the Momella Lakes, Long-crested Eagle by Nigel Redman enjoying the spectacle of several hundred flamingos, hundreds of Cape Teals and Southern Pochards, and a variety of waders including a vagrant Lesser Sand Plover. Other memorable birds included an incredibly obliging Brown-hooded Kingfisher, a very scruffy but very close Tawny Eagle and an Emerald-spotted Wood Dove on the road. By late afternoon, we had reached the museum where we added Kenrick’s Starling, Mountain and Stripe-cheeked Greenbuls, Rüppell’s Robin-Chat, Mountain Buzzard, White-eared Barbet, Silvery- cheeked Hornbill, Black-backed Puffback and Red-headed Weaver. Arusha NP had not disappointed.

Leaving Arusha behind, we headed southwest to Tarangire NP. We birded the park gate area for an hour where we found many endemic Ashy Starlings and Yellow-collared Lovebirds, as well as Northern Red-billed Hornbills, Red-billed and White-headed Buffalo Weavers, and three species of woodpeckers including several magnificent Bearded Woodpeckers. A slow game drive Three-banded Courser by Nigel Redman into the park produced Magpie Shrike, Long-tailed Fiscal, Northern Pied Babbler, the endemic Rufous- tailed Weaver, Red-and-yellow Barbet, an obliging Grey Penduline Tit in full song, Common Ostrich, Bateleur, and many Lilac-breasted Rollers (always a favourite!). Perhaps best of all was a pair of roosting Verreaux’s Eagle Owls and two pairs of Three-banded Coursers, really close to the road. After lunch at the Safari Lodge, overlooking a magnificent vista of acacia savanna, we found an African Scops Owl at its day roost and three distant Southern Ground Hornbills. The afternoon game drive proved to be rather rewarding, with three species of sandgrouse at close range, many Red-necked and Yellow-necked

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 5

Spurfowl, Crested Francolin, a variety of migrant waders, Lappet-faced Vulture, Martial Eagle, Meyer’s and Red-bellied Parrots, and Blue-capped Cordon-bleu. But there was a lot more than just birds. The park was teeming with mammals, including many Plains Zebra, Common Wildebeest, Impala and Giraffe. Two Bohor Reedbuck were found close to the river, and several close herds of African Elephants were particularly noteworthy. We finished the day with two young male Lions, flat out beside the road.

We left Tarangire fairly early the next morning in order to maximise our time at Lake Manyara. A short stop at some flooded roadside pools produced White-faced and Fulvous Whistling Ducks and several Knob- billed Ducks. At the southern end of Manyara, an area of active rice paddies proved productive with many Glossy Ibises, and great views of both Whiskered and White- winged Terns. Most of the latter were in non- Southern Ground Hornbill by Nigel Redman breeding plumage, but fortuitously (and unexpectedly), there was a single bird of each species in full breeding plumage. We reached the park mid-morning and drove slowly along the western side of the lake. We made a long stop at the hot springs where we enjoyed sifting through the many waders, with a spectacular and noisy backdrop of thousands of flamingos. Amongst the commoner migrant waders, we found six Chestnut-banded Plovers, several of which gave great close views. A group of extremely muddy Hippos at the lake edge also provided some amusement. Moving on, we observed a few Lions asleep in trees, and a few more African Elephants. Two groups of Southern Ground Hornbills gave great close-up views, so much better than the distant ones the day before. Eventually, we reached a large marsh where we enjoyed many wetland species including African Jacana, Long-toed Lapwing, Hottentot Teal, African Spoonbill, Squacco and Purple Herons, Black Crake, African Swamphen, a large flock of resting Collared Pratincoles, and a congregation of some 250 Yellow-billed Storks. Some of the many other new birds for the trip at Lake Manyara included Rufous Chatterer, Palm-nut Vulture, Lions by Nigel Redman Crowned Hornbill, Lesser Honeyguide, Double-banded Courser, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, Klaas’s Cuckoo, Blue-naped Mousebird, Striped Kingfisher, D’Arnaud’s Barbet, Grey Kestrel, Fan-tailed Widowbird and Silverbird. After a day with more than 130 species, we left Lake Manyara and headed up the Rift Valley escarpment to Karatu for an overnight stay.

From Karatu we headed up to the Ngorongoro crater rim, but it was cold and misty to begin with. Bird activity at the gate was slow, but we added a few species including Brown-headed Apalis and (unexpectedly) a vocal Black Cuckoo. We had to return to Karatu for an unscheduled visit to the hospital where we were treated to a wonderful male Diederik Cuckoo, several Arrow-marked Babblers and a

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 6 flock of European Bee-eaters. Back at the hotel, a Rüppell’s Robin-Chat showed well to everyone. Returning to the crater rim, we made a stop at the famous Viewpoint overlooking the huge caldera. Here we saw Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, White-tailed Blue Flycatcher, Mbulu White-eye, Red-faced Cisticola and Eastern Double-collared Sunbird, but it was already getting hot. We had our lunch at the picnic site, where a Yellow-billed Kite watched intently for any unguarded chicken legs. A Red-collared Widowbird was the first of the trip, and a male Golden-winged Sunbird showed briefly. In the afternoon, we headed down to the scorched plains of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. A short stop at Olduvai Gorge produced our first Vitelline Masked Weavers and a few old friends. The cultural visit to a Maasai village was a revelation to most. Finally, we reached the huge Serengeti National Park. A Silverbird and some Rufous-tailed Weavers greeted us at the gate, but it was already getting late and Rufous-tailed Weaver by Nigel Redman we needed to do a fairly fast game drive to our tented camp in the Seronera area. There was quite a lot to see, and we managed to notch up Kori, White-bellied and Hartlaub’s Bustards, Greater Kestrel, African Hawk Eagle, Yellow-billed Oxpecker, and our first Hartebeest and Spotted Hyaenas. As we neared the camp, huge herds of wildebeest and zebra were crossing the road. The Great Migration was in full swing! As the light fell, we were alerted to a distant Cheetah in the grass, but it was just a glimpse, and we arrived at our camp just as it was dark.

During the night, the wildebeest and zebras called incessantly, providing a strangely soothing background for dropping off to sleep. In the evening and again in the morning, we heard the distinctive roaring of Lions and the laughter of Spotted Hyaenas. What a wonderful place to stay! After an early breakfast, we set off on the morning’s game drive. The bushes were lively, with a number of new birds including Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Red-throated Tit, the endemic Grey-breasted Spurfowl, Striped Kingfisher, Purple Roller, Rüppell’s and White-headed Vultures, Red- faced Crombec, Fischer’s Lovebird, Usambiro Barbet (now considered a race of D’Arnaud’s), Red-backed Shrike, Black- lored Babbler, many Silverbirds, a male Sooty Chat (somewhat south of its usual range), and Little and Lesser Masked Weavers. As we neared a huge rounded rock, we spotted a pair of Lions lying on the very top. They gave great views in the early Cheetah by Nigel Redman morning light, and so much more satisfying than the previous sleeping ones at Tarangire. Nearby, a group of six more females posed well under some bushes. Further on, as we meandered alongside the Seronera River, we were treated to close views of several large herds of African Elephants. The huge flowing lines of wildebeest and zebras gave wonderful photographic opportunities, as did the many hippos in the deeper stretches of the river. New birds kept coming at regular intervals, including point-blank views of

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 7

Coqui Francolin, White-browed Coucal, Grey-backed Fiscal and Red-faced Crombec. Returning to the camp for lunch, we found rather bold zebras grazing the grass just a few metres in front of the dining room and Banded Mongooses playing in the porches of our tents. A variety of weavers and sparrows were taking advantage of the leftovers from lunch and there was always something to watch for those not wishing to rest. Our afternoon game drive took us to a different stretch of the river. It was much quieter than the spectacular morning excursion, but a few good birds were seen including a pair of endemic Tanzanian Red- billed Hornbills, Rüppell’s Starling, Marico Sunbird and Purple Grenadier, as well as a pair of Black-backed Jackals. A herd of anxious zebras alerted us to a lioness which had been stalking them. We watched her for some time, but she had given up any hope of zebra for dinner. Our first day in the Serengeti had been memorable in so many ways, with Fischer’s Lovebirds by Nigel Redman the promise of much more to come.

On our second day in the Serengeti, we worked drier, more open areas away from the river. The morning started slowly, with many of the same species as the day before. Soon we found a pair of Secretarybirds stalking the grassland, and one bird briefly visited its nest in the crown of a nearby acacia. A pair of Ostriches was admired on the road, and then several very young chicks appeared from the long grass, looking somewhat like francolins! More and more popped out onto the road until we counted no fewer than 19. Moving on, we entered an area of whistling thorn, and almost immediately a pair of Karamoja Apalises flew in, calling excitedly from a small tree beside us. They continued to show well for several minutes. A pair of Brown-crowned Tchagras gave great views in a small clump of acacias, together with a number of other thornbush species. By late morning it was getting hot, and we made a short visit to the Visitor Centre. Here we found many rather habituated Rock Hyraxes, and had amazing views of Red-throated Tit. In the afternoon, we headed out to the eastern plains of the Serengeti. This area was much more open than Seronera, and we Karamoja Apalis by Nigel Redman concentrated some effort on distinguishing Desert, Pectoral-patch and Zitting Cisticolas. Other birds included a brief Flappet Lark, Common Rock Thrush, Croaking Cisticola and Plain-backed Pipit. Eventually, we reached a rocky outcrop where a superb Leopard was resting among the rocks near the top. Although showing mostly his head and shoulders, he moved several times giving us good views of the whole animal. We left him in peace and carried on across the plains, finding several Black-bellied and White-bellied Bustards, and another pair of Double-banded Coursers. As the light began to fail, we

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 8 speeded up to get back before dark but made an unscheduled stop for another Leopard (our third for the trip) which was draped along a horizontal branch in a fairly small acacia, right next to the road. It was a fitting end to another superb day in the Serengeti.

On our final morning in the Serengeti, we headed out of camp in the usual direction but made an early stop to watch two Lions devouring a Wildebeest that they had caught during the night. The audience for this fascinating spectacle, apart from a few humans, included Marabou Storks, an assortment of vultures, several Spotted Hyaenas and a Black-backed Jackal, all (except the humans) awaiting their turn to pick over the carcass. Moving on, we were enjoying the spectacle of the wildebeest migration in full swing when we noticed a female Impala on the other side of the road, licking a new-born calf. The youngster could barely stand up and was still very wet, having been born just minutes earlier. This was a rare treat, and we spent some time with them, Leopard by Nigel Redman while other vehicles passed by, oblivious to the drama just a few metres away. When we heard a call on the radio that a Cheetah had been spotted nearby, we headed over without delay to find a magnificent adult male Cheetah walking across the plain parallel to the road, just a few metres from a row of vehicles full of admiring tourists. He gave magnificent views and photographic opportunities, eventually crossing the road and taking refuge under a large tree, further away from the cars. We carried on, enjoying a fine group of Elephants under the shade of a large acacia, and revisiting the Hippo Pool to watch the hippos jostling for position in a pool that could barely contain them. We made other stops for various new birds including Martial Eagle, Black-faced Waxbill, Slate-coloured Boubou, Croaking Cisticola, Red-billed Teal, Goliath Heron and Greater Honeyguide. After a final lunch back at camp, we packed up and left, driving once more across the eastern plains towards Naabi Hill Gate. On the way, we saw a welcome pair of Temminck’s Coursers and counted no fewer than 14 White-bellied Bustards. At the final pair of bustards, a Cheetah was walking through the grass, this time some distance away, but it was our second Cheetah of the day. New birds on the journey included Cape Kori Bustard by Nigel Redman Crow, Greater Kestrel and Black-winged Lapwing. New mammals included Steenbok, African Golden Wolf and Wild Cat, the latter running across the road at high speed and across the dusty plain towards cover. It was cold and misty on the crater rim as we reached our penultimate accommodation of the trip.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 9

It was still misty in the morning, and so we headed off without delay to descend into Ngorongoro crater. As we dropped in altitude, we quickly came out of the mist and were able to start birding. A Yellow Bishop was an early success, followed by many Dusky Turtle Doves and two Black-crowned Tchagras. We tried hard for Lynes’s Cisticola, which responded well, but it only showed briefly. At the marsh at the foot of the crater rim, we found Red- rumped Swallows before setting out across the crater floor. After a bit of effort, we all had great views of a Rosy-breasted Longclaw, but a single Black Rhinoceros was too far away to really appreciate its splendour. At the Hippo Pool, we found hundreds of Fan-tailed Widowbirds, as well as Banded Martin, Lesser Swamp Warbler, Temminck’s Stint, Kittlitz’s Plover, Mottled Swift, and Black-chested Snake Eagle. At the river, we found an African Black Duck and two African Green Pigeons. A group of four male Lions was a pleasant diversion, and we Impala and calf by Nigel Redman notched up many Kori Bustards, several Secretarybirds, a magnificent group of close Grey Crowned Cranes and a few Yellow-throated Sandgrouse. The lunch stop, at the picnic site, proved to be very birdy as many Speke’s Weavers, Rufous- tailed Weavers, Fan-tailed Widowbirds and Superb Starlings competed for leftovers from the tourists’ picnics. A Black-necked Grebe was new for the trip, and we also managed a brief look at a Highland Rush Warbler. As we headed back to the ascent road, we found an immaculate Serval trotting through the grass. It gave an amazing show before crossing the road in front of us and continuing its search for food on the other side. When it leapt in the air to catch a flying prey (perhaps a cisticola?), there were gasps of delight at its agility. Leaving the crater floor, we ascended the rim through lush forests and headed back to our campsite of the previous evening to look for a few montane species. Two Schalow’s Turacos showed well, and other new birds included a much-admired Long-crested Eagle, Abyssinian Thrush, Placid Greenbul and Red-collared Widowbird.

It was raining on our final morning, but a short pre-breakfast walk in the lodge garden produced a male Tacazze Sunbird which was new for the trip. Leaving Karatu behind, we soon began to descend into the Rift Valley towards Lake Manyara. A birding stop on the escarpment was notable for several rather showy White-browed Robin-Chats, providing a useful comparison with the Rüppell’s Secretarybird by Nigel Redman Robin-Chats seen well at Karatu less than two hours earlier. Other new birds included Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Grey-capped Warbler and African Goshawk. We continued towards Arusha, by-passing the town itself as we headed to the idyllic Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge for a delicious final lunch. In the afternoon, we birded the lush, tranquil gardens

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 10 and lake, seeing breeding Taveta and Thick-billed Weavers, several African Black Ducks, great views of several Giant Kingfishers, a Rüppell’s Robin-Chat imitating a White-starred Robin, and a rather skulking Grey-olive Greenbul. Red-chested and African Emerald Cuckoos called incessantly, but both refused to show themselves. It was a delightful place to end the tour and, perhaps appropriately, heavy rain coincided with the time to leave for the airport.

This new, short, Tanzania Highlights tour, with just 10 full days in the field, had proved a remarkable success, with a combined trip list of some 360 species of birds and 45 mammals. But numbers are only half the story, and it was the quality of the wildlife encounters and close-up views of most that made this tour particularly special and memorable. Northern Tanzania, encompassing the world-famous Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Crater, is one of those destinations that every serious birder and wildlife enthusiast should visit at least once in their lives.

Group photo at Arusha National Park

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 11

Annotated List of Birds Recorded (367 in total: 360 seen, 7 heard) Nomenclature and taxonomy follow Gill, F. & Donsker, D. (eds). 2019. IOC World Bird List (v 9.1). Status codes: E = Endemic, NE = Near-endemic, I = Introduced, H = Heard only IUCN codes: CR = Critically endangered, EN = Endangered, VU = Vulnerable, EW = Extinct in the Wild, NT = Near Threatened, DD = Data Deficient. NP = National Park.

Ostrich Struthionidae Common Ostrich Struthio camelus massaicus 2 Tarangire NP 4.11, 1 Tarangire NP 5.11, 3 Serengeti NP 6.11, 13 Serengeti NP 9.11 and 17 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. A pair with 19 chicks in Serengeti on 8.11 was particularly memorable.

Ducks, Geese and Swans Anatidae White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata 20 en route from Tarangire NP to Lake Manyara 5.11. Fulvous Whistling Duck Dendrocygna bicolor 2 en route from Tarangire NP to Lake Manyara 5.11. Knob-billed Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos 10 en route from Tarangire NP to Lake Manyara 5.11 and 2 in Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiaca Commonly encountered in Arusha NP, Tarangire NP, Lake Manyara NP, Serengeti NP and Ngorongoro crater, with up to 50 birds per day. Hottentot Teal Spatula hottentota 11 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and 10 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Northern Shoveler Spatula clypeata 4 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. African Black Duck Anas sparsa leucostigma 1 Ngorongoro crater 10.11 and 5 Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. Cape Teal Anas capensis About 300 Arusha NP 3.11 and 5 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha 4 Serengeti NP 9.11 and 30 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma brunnea About 100 Arusha NP 3.11.

Guineafowl Numididae Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris 6 Arusha NP 3.11, 30 Tarangire NP 4.11, up to 80 per day in Serengeti NP 6–9.11 and 50 Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Pheasants, Grouse and allies Phasianidae Coqui Francolin Peliperdix coqui Several sightings in Serengeti NP 6–8.11, with a total of 5 birds seen. Crested Francolin Dendroperdix sephaena 8 Tarangire NP 4.11, 2 Tarangire NP 5.11 and 2 Serengeti NP 7.11. Hildebrandt’s Francolin (H) Pternistis hildebrandti 1 heard near Angata Camp, Ngorongoro 10.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 12

Yellow-necked Spurfowl Pternistis leucoscepus 10 Tarangire NP 4.11. Grey-breasted Spurfowl Pternistis rufopictus 18 Serengeti NP 7.11, and 5 more on subsequent days. Red-necked Spurfowl Pternistis afer 12 Tarangire NP 4.11 and 1 more the following day.

Grebes Podicipedidae Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis capensis 50 Arusha NP 3.11, 3 Ngorongoro crater 10.11 and 10 Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis gurneyi 1 Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Flamingos Phoenicopteridae Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus Small numbers amongst the Lessers at Arusha NP 3.11 and Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Lesser Flamingo (NT) Phoeniconaias minor Several hundred in Arusha NP 3.11 and thousands in Lake Manyara NP 5.11.

Storks Ciconiidae Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis A flock of 250 roosting at Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Black Stork Ciconia nigra 1 Arusha NP 3.11. Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis 1 Arusha NP 3.11, 1 Tarangire NP 4.11 and 4 Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumenifer Small numbers in Arusha NP 3.11 and Serengeti NP 6–9.11, with up to 20 per day.

Ibises and Spoonbills Threskiornithidae African Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus Small numbers in Arusha NP 3.11, Lake Manyara NP 5.11, Serengeti NP 7–8.11 and Ngorongoro crater 10.11, with up to 20 per day. Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash Singles or pairs in Arusha town 1– 2.11, Arusha NP 3.11, and Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus About 100 on the rice fields near Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and 30 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. African Spoonbill Platalea alba 12 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and 1 Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Herons, Egrets and Bitterns Ardeidae Striated Heron Butorides striata atricapilla 1 Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides 15 Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Small numbers in Arusha NP 3.11, Tarangire NP 4.11, Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and Ngorongoro crater 10.11, with up to 30 per day.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 13

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea cinerea 1 Arusha NP 3.11, at least 100 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and 2 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala Small numbers were seen every day, with a peak count of 20 in Ngorongoro crater on 10.11. Goliath Heron Ardea goliath 1 Serengeti NP 9.11. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea purpurea 2 Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Great Egret Ardea alba melanorhynchos 1 Arusha NP 3.11 and 1 Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. Intermediate Egret Ardea intermedia brachyrhyncha 4 Arusha NP 3.11. Little Egret Egretta garzetta garzetta 6 Lake Manyara NP 5.11.

Hamerkop Scopidae Hamerkop Scopus umbretta umbretta Singles at Arusha NP 3.11, Tarangire NP 4.11 and Lake Manyara NP 5.11.

Pelicans Pelecanidae Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus 1 Lake Manyara NP 5.11.

Cormorants and Shags Phalacrocoracidae Reed Cormorant Microcarbo africanus africanus 2 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and 3 Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11.

Secretarybird Sagittariidae Secretarybird (VU) Sagittarius serpentarius 3 Serengeti NP 8.11, 3 Serengeti NP 9.11, 4 Ngorongoro crater 10.11 and 1 en route to Arusha 11.11.

Kites, Hawks and Eagles Accipitridae Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus caeruleus 2 en route to Tarangire NP 4.11, 2 Serengeti NP 8.11 and 1 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Palm-nut Vulture Gypohierax angolensis 1 Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Hooded Vulture (EN) Necrosyrtes monachus 2 Tarangire NP 4.11, 1 Serengeti NP 8.11 and 6 Serengeti NP 9.11. White-backed Vulture (NT) Gyps africanus Regular sightings in Tarangire NP, Serengeti NP and Ngorongoro crater, with up to 20 per day. Rüppell’s Vulture (EN) Gyps rueppelli rueppelli Up to 10 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11. White-headed Vulture (VU) Trigonoceps occipitalis 1 Serengeti NP 7.11. Lappet-faced Vulture (VU) Torgos tracheliotos tracheliotos 2 Tarangire NP 4.11 and up to 4 per day Serengeti NP 6–9.11 including one on a nest with a chick. Black-chested Snake Eagle Circaetus pectoralis 1 immature Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and 2 adults Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 14

Bateleur (NT) Terathopius ecaudatus 3 Tarangire NP 4.11, up to 3 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11 and 1 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Martial Eagle (NT) Polemaetus bellicosus 1 Tarangire NP 4.11 and 2 Serengeti NP 9.11. Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis 1 near Angata Camp, Ngorongoro 10.11. Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax rapax Frequent sightings in Arusha NP, Tarangire NP, Serengeti NP and Ngorongoro crater, usually only 1 or 2 per day, but 10 on 9.11. Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis orientalis 1 juvenile Serengeti NP 8.11 and 2 adults Serengeti NP 9.11. African Hawk-Eagle Aquila spilogaster 1 near Olduvai Gorge en route to Serengeti 6.11. Gabar Goshawk Micronisus gabar aequatorius 1 en route to Serengeti 6.11 (leader only). Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates 1 or 2 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11. Eastern Chanting Goshawk Melierax poliopterus 2 on the Lark Plains 2.11, 1 en route to Tarangire NP 4.11 and 1 en route to Arusha 11.11. African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro 1 en route to Arusha 11.11. Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk Accipiter rufiventris rufiventris 1 in the forest at Fig Tree Arch in Arusha NP 3.11 (leader only). Pallid Harrier (NT) Circus macrourus 1 Serengeti NP 9.11 and 2 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Montagu’s Harrier Circus pygargus 1 en route to Serengeti 6.11, 2 Serengeti NP 8.11, 3 Serengeti NP 9.11 and 1 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius Frequent sightings in small numbers and seen on 6 days. Peak count of 10 at Ngorongoro 10.11. African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer Singles at Lake Manyara NP 5.11, Serengeti NP 7.11, Serengeti NP 8.11 and Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. Common Buzzard (Steppe Buzzard) Buteo buteo vulpinus 1 Serengeti NP 8.11. Mountain Buzzard (NT) Buteo oreophilus Singles at Arusha NP 3.11 and Ngorongoro ridge 6.11. Augur Buzzard Buteo augur Frequently encountered throughout except in the Serengeti, and seen on 8 days. Peak count of 8 in Ngorongoro area 10.11.

Bustards Otididae Kori Bustard (NT) Ardeotis kori struthiunculus 2 each day in Serengeti NP 6–9.11 (all different individuals) and 9 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. White-bellied Bustard Eupodotis senegalensis 4 Serengeti NP 6.11 and 8.11, and 14 Serengeti NP 9.11. Black-bellied Bustard Lissotis melanogaster melanogaster 4 Serengeti NP 8.11, 1 Serengeti NP 9.11 and 2 Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 15

Hartlaub’s Bustard Lissotis hartlaubii 1 Serengeti NP 6.11.

Rails, Crakes and Coots Rallidae Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostra 8 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, up to 2 per day Serengeti NP 7–9.11, 8 Ngorongoro crater 10.11 and 3 Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. African Swamphen Porphyrio madagascariensis 5 Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus meridionalis 1 Arusha NP 3.11, 3 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and 6 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata 2 Arusha NP 3.11 and 24 Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Cranes Gruidae Grey Crowned Crane (VU) Balearica regulorum gibbericeps 2 Arusha NP 3.11 and 16 Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Stilts and Avocets Recurvirostridae Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus 20 Arusha NP 3.11, 2 Tarangire NP 4.11, 20 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, 2 Serengeti NP 8.11 and 1 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta 10 Arusha NP 3.11.

Plovers and Lapwings Charadriidae Long-toed Lapwing Vanellus crassirostris 12 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and 1 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Blacksmith Lapwing Vanellus armatus Common throughout and seen most days, with peak counts of 40 Tarangire NP 4.11, 30 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, up to 40 Serengeti NP 6–9.11 and 80 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Spur-winged Lapwing Vanellus spinosus 5 Arusha NP 3.11, 2 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, and singles in Serengeti NP 7.11 and 8.11. Senegal Lapwing Vanellus lugubris 3 Tarangire NP 4.11. Black-winged Lapwing Vanellus melanopterus minor 6 Serengeti NP 9.11 and 2 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Crowned Lapwing Vanellus coronatus coronatus Common throughout in drier areas, with up to 20 per day. Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula tundrae About 20 Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Kittlitz’s Plover Charadrius pecuarius 1 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris tricollaris Singles or pairs seen on 6 days, at Arusha NP, Tarangire NP, Lake Manyara NP, Serengeti NP and Ngorongoro crater. Chestnut-banded Plover (NT) Charadrius pallidus venustus 6 seen well at Lake Manyara NP 5.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 16

Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus One vagrant on Momella Lakes in Arusha NP 3.11, still retaining traces of breeding plumage.

Jacanas Jacanidae African Jacana Actophilornis africanus About 20 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, 2 Ngorongoro crater 10.11 and 1 Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11.

Sandpipers and allies Scolopacidae Ruff Calidris pugnax 50 Arusha NP 3.11, 30 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, up to 3 per day at Serengeti NP 7–9.11 and 2 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea 3 Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Temminck’s Stint Calidris temminckii One with Little Stints in Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Little Stint Calidris minuta Small numbers at Arusha NP, Tarangire NP, Serengeti NP and Ngorongoro crater, but more than 100 at Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago gallinago 1 Serengeti NP 7.11. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 2 Arusha NP 3.11, 2 Tarangire NP 4.11 and 2 Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus 1 Arusha NP 3.11, 4 Tarangire NP 4.11, up to 2 per day Serengeti NP 7–9.11 and 1 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis 3 Tarangire NP 4.11 and 10 Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola 5 Tarangire NP 4.11, 2 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, 3 Serengeti NP 7.11, 1 Serengeti NP 9.11 and 1 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia 1 Tarangire NP 4.11 and 2 Lake Manyara NP 5.11.

Pratincoles and Coursers Glareolidae Temminck’s Courser Cursorius temminckii ruvanensis 2 Serengeti NP 9.11. Double-banded Courser Rhinoptilus africanus gracilis 1 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, a pair at Serengeti NP 8.11 and two singles Serengeti NP 9.11. Three-banded Courser Rhinoptilus cinctus Two pairs seen in late morning at Tarangire NP 4.11. Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola About 40 at Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and 5 in Serengeti NP 7.11.

Gulls, Terns and Skimmers Laridae Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica nilotica At least 20 in Lake Manyara NP 5.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 17

Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida Several at the rice fields near Lake Manyara 5.11 (including one in breeding plumage), and a few more at the lake itself. White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus 2 Arusha NP 3.11 and several at the rice fields near Lake Manyara 5.11 (including one in breeding plumage).

Sandgrouse Pteroclidae Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus olivascens About 20 at the Lark Plains 2.11 and 3 Tarangire NP 4.11. Yellow-throated Sandgrouse Pterocles gutturalis saturatior About 50 Tarangire NP 4.11 and 7 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Black-faced Sandgrouse Pterocles decoratus 10 Tarangire NP 4.11, 2 Serengeti NP 8.11 and 2 Serengeti NP 9.11.

Pigeons and Doves Columbidae Rock Dove Columba livia A few seen around Arusha. Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea guinea Small numbers seen on 5 days, usually close to towns and villages. Peak counts of 20 at Oldonyo Sambu 2.11 and at Naabi Hill Gate, Serengeti NP 9.11. Dusky Turtle Dove Streptopelia lugens 20 Ngorongoro crater rim 10.11. Mourning Collared Dove Streptopelia decipiens perspicillata Singles or pairs on just three days, at the Lark Plains 2.11, Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and en route to Serengeti 6.11. Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata Common in highland areas with up to 20 per day. Ring-necked Dove Streptopelia capicola tropica Very common throughout and seen almost every day. Laughing Dove Spilopelia senegalensis senegalensis About 20 at the Lark Plains 2.11, but only three other singles noted. Emerald-spotted Wood Dove Turtur chalcospilos 1 Arusha NP 3.11, 6 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and 2 en route to Arusha 11.11. Namaqua Dove Oena capensis capensis 1 female Tarangire NP 4.11. African Green Pigeon Treron calvus 2 Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Turacos Musophagidae Schalow’s Turaco Tauraco schalowi 3 at Angata Camp, Ngorongoro 10.11. Hartlaub’s Turaco Tauraco hartlaubi 1 seen and 5 others heard at Arusha NP 3.11. Bare-faced Go-away-bird Corythaixoides personatus leopoldi 2 en route to Lake Manyara 5.11. White-bellied Go-away-bird Corythaixoides leucogaster 10 at the Lark Plains 2.11, 4 en route to Tarangire NP 4.11 and 2 Tarangire NP 5.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 18

Cuckoos Cuculidae White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus Singles at Arusha NP 3.11 and three times in Serengeti NP 7–8.11. Diederik Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius Singles seen well at Karatu 6.11 and Serengeti NP 9.11; two others heard in Serengeti NP. Klaas’s Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas 1–2 birds heard on 5 days at various localities. The only one seen was at Lake Manyara NP 5.11. African Emerald Cuckoo (H) Chrysococcyx cupreus Singles heard Arusha NP 3.11, Ngorongoro CA 6.11 and Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. Black Cuckoo Cuculus clamosus One showed well repeatedly on Ngorongoro ridge 6.11. Red-chested Cuckoo (H) Cuculus solitarius At least 9 birds heard on 5 days (but none seen), at the Lark Plains, Arusha NP, Lake Manyara NP, Ngorongoro and Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge.

Owls Strigidae African Scops Owl Otus senegalensis senegalensis 1 roosting bird seen during the day at Tarangire NP 4–5.11. Spotted Eagle-Owl Bubo africanus africanus 2 seen during the day near the Lark Plains 2.11. Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl Bubo lacteus 2 roosting in a large acacia in Tarangire NP 4.11. Pearl-spotted Owlet (H) Glaucidium perlatum licua Singles heard at night in Tarangire NP 4.11 and 5.11.

Nightjars and allies Caprimulgidae Slender-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus clarus 1 Serengeti NP 6.11 (leader only).

Swifts Apodidae African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus Seen on 6 days at Oldonyo Sambu, Arusha NP, Tarangire NP, Karatu and Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge, with a peak count of 20 on 3.11. Mottled Swift Tachymarptis aequatorialis aequatorialis About 10 in Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Common Swift Apus apus At least 30 Arusha NP 3.11. Little Swift Apus affinis Common throughout and seen almost every day, with up to 30 birds per day. White-rumped Swift Apus caffer 2 Oldonyo Sambu 2.11 and 4 Lake Manyara NP 5.11.

Mousebirds Coliidae Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus Common throughout and seen almost every day in small numbers. White-headed Mousebird Colius leucocephalus leucocephalus 5 seen well at the Lark Plains 2.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 19

Blue-naped Mousebird Urocolius macrourus 3 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, 3 Serengeti NP 8.11 and 1 Serengeti NP 9.11.

Rollers Coraciidae Purple Roller (Rufous-crowned Roller) Coracias naevius naevius 4 Serengeti NP 7.11 and 1 Serengeti NP 8.11. Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudatus caudatus Frequently seen, especially at Tarangire NP and Serengeti NP, with up to 30 per day.

Kingfishers Alcedinidae Grey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala 3 Oldonyo Sambu 2.11, 10 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, 1 Serengeti NP 7.11, 1 Serengeti NP 9.11 and 1 en route to Arusha 11.11. Brown-hooded Kingfisher Halcyon albiventris 2 singles at Arusha NP 3.11 and 1 heard Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti chelicuti 1 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and up to 3 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11. Malachite Kingfisher Corythornis cristatus cristatus 1 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maxima 3 at Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11.

Bee-eaters Meropidae Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus meridionalis Common throughout and seen most days, with a peak count of 30 at Arusha NP 3.11. Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater Merops oreobates 3 on Ngorongoro ridge 6.11 and 8 there on 10.11. White-fronted Bee-eater Merops bullockoides About 20 at Oldonyo Sambu 2.11, 6 Arusha NP 3.11, 1 Ngorongoro crater 10.11 and 1 en route to Arusha 11.11. European Bee-eater Merops apiaster A flock of 15 over Karatu 6.11.

Hoopoes Upupidae African Hoopoe Upupa africana Singles were seen on 6 days.

Wood Hoopoes Phoeniculidae Green Wood Hoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus marwitzi 2 Tarangire NP 4.11, 1 Tarangire NP 5.11, 10 Serengeti NP 7.11 and 3 Serengeti NP 8.11. Abyssinian Scimitarbill Rhinopomastus minor cabanisi 1 Lark Plains 2.11, 2 Tarangire NP 4.11, 1 Serengeti NP 7.11 and 2 Serengeti NP 9.11.

Ground Hornbills Bucorvidae Southern Ground Hornbill (VU) Bucorvus leadbeateri 3 distant birds at Tarangire NP 4.11 and 7 very close ones at Lake Manyara NP 5.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 20

Hornbills Bucerotidae Tanzanian Red-billed Hornbill Tockus ruahae 2 Serengeti NP 7.11. Northern Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus At least 30 in Tarangire NP 4–5.11. Von der Decken’s Hornbill Tockus deckeni 2 Tarangire NP 4.11, 2 Tarangire NP 5.11 and 1 Serengeti NP 8.11. Crowned Hornbill Lophoceros alboterminatus 4 Lake Manyara NP 5.11. African Grey Hornbill Lophoceros nasutus epirhinus Singles or pairs in Tarangire NP 4.11, Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and Serengeti NP 7–8.11. Silvery-cheeked Hornbill Bycanistes brevis 6 Arusha NP 3.11, 6 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and 1 Ngorongoro ridge 6.11.

African Barbets Lybiidae White-eared Barbet Stactolaema leucotis 4 Arusha NP 3.11. Red-fronted Tinkerbird (H) Pogoniulus pusillus affinis 1 heard at Olduvai Gorge 6.11. Spot-flanked Barbet Tricholaema lacrymosa 2 Arusha NP 3.11. Brown-breasted Barbet Lybius melanopterus 1 seen well at Arusha NP 3.11. Red-and-yellow Barbet Trachyphonus erythrocephalus erythrocephalus 2 Tarangire NP 4.11 and 1 Tarangire NP 5.11. D’Arnaud’s Barbet (Usambiro Barbet) Trachyphonus darnaudii usambiro 2 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and up to 10 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11.

Honeyguides Indicatoridae Green-backed Honeybird Prodotiscus zambesiae 1 on Ngorongoro ridge 6.11 (leader only). Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor teitensis 1 Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator Singles were seen at Tarangire NP 4.11 and Serengeti NP 9.11; six other singles were heard.

Woodpeckers Picidae Nubian Woodpecker Campethera nubica nubica 1 Lark Plains 2.11, 1 Arusha NP 3.11 and 1 Serengeti NP 7.11. Bearded Woodpecker Chloropicus namaquus namaquus 4 Tarangire NP 4.11, 1 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, 1 Serengeti NP 7.11 and 3 Serengeti NP 8.11. Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens 1 Lark Plains 2.11, 3 Tarangire NP 4.11, 2 Serengeti NP 7.11 and 1 Serengeti NP 8.11. Eastern Grey Woodpecker Dendropicos spodocephalus rhodeogaster 1 Arusha NP 3.11, 3 Tarangire NP 4.11, 1 Serengeti NP 7.11 and 1 Serengeti NP 9.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 21

Falcons Falconidae Pygmy Falcon Polihierax semitorquatus castanonotus 1 Oldonyo Sambu 2.11, 1 Serengeti NP 7.11 and 1 Serengeti NP 8.11; all were females. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 1 Oldonyo Sambu 2.11. Greater Kestrel Falco rupicoloides arthuri 2 Serengeti NP 6.11 and 2 Serengeti NP 9.11. Grey Kestrel Falco ardosiaceus 1 en route to Lake Manyara 5.11.

African Parrots Psittacidae Meyer’s Parrot Poicephalus meyeri 2 Tarangire NP 4.11, 1 Serengeti NP 7.11 and 1 Serengeti NP 8.11. Red-bellied Parrot Poicephalus rufiventris rufiventris 12 Tarangire NP 4.11 and 1 Tarangire NP 5.11.

Old World Parrots Psittaculidae Fischer’s Lovebird (NT) Agapornis fischeri Up to 10 at Karatu 5.11 and 10.11, and up to 40 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11. Yellow-collared Lovebird Agapornis personatus Up to 20 per day in Arusha area 2.11, Tarangire NP 4.11 and Lake Manyara NP 5.11.

Wattle-eyes and Batises Platysteiridae Chinspot Batis Batis molitor 3 Arusha NP 3.11 and up to 2 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11. One female on a nest outside the tents in the Serengeti. Black-throated Wattle-eye Platysteira peltata 1 seen briefly in Arusha NP 3.11.

Bushshrikes and allies Malaconotidae Rosy-patched Bushshrike Telophorus cruentus cathemagmenus 2 at the Lark Plains 2.11 and 1 heard en route to Arusha 11.11. Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis 2 Serengeti NP 8.11 and 2 Serengeti NP 9.11. Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus 1 Tarangire NP 4.11 and 2 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopus cubla 1 Arusha NP 3.11, 1 Ngorongoro ridge 6.11 and 1 Karatu 11.11. Slate-colored Boubou Laniarius funebris 2 Serengeti NP 9.11. Tropical Boubou Laniarius major Heard on 7 days, and several birds seen well, notably at Arusha NP, Ngorongoro ridge, Serengeti NP and Karatu. Brubru Nilaus afer 4 at the Lark Plains 2.11, up to 4 per day in Tarangire NP 4–5.11, and up to 3 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 22

Cuckooshrikes Campephagidae Black Cuckooshrike Campephaga flava 1 male in Arusha NP 3.11.

Shrikes Laniidae Magpie Shrike Urolestes melanoleucus aequatorialis Frequent sightings in Tarangire NP 4–5.11 and Serengeti NP 7–8.11, with a peak day count of 10 birds. Northern White-crowned Shrike Eurocephalus ruppelli Frequent sightings in Tarangire NP 4–5.11 and Serengeti NP 7–9.11, with a peak day count of 15 birds. Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio 2 seen each day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11. Grey-backed Fiscal Lanius excubitoroides boehmi Up to 10 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11. Long-tailed Fiscal Lanius cabanisi 4 Tarangire NP 4.11 and 2 Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Taita Fiscal Lanius dorsalis 2 Lark Plains 2.11, 6 en route to Serengeti 6.11 and 3 en route to Ngorongoro 9.11. Northern Fiscal Lanius humeralis Common in highland areas and seen on 7 days. Peak counts of 15 on 2.11 and 10.11.

Old World Orioles Oriolidae Black-headed Oriole Oriolus larvatus 2 Arusha NP 3.11.

Drongos Dicruridae Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis fugax Commonly seen, usually singly. Recorded on 7 days with a peak count of 10 birds on 4.11.

Monarchs Monarchidae African Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis 3 Arusha NP 3.11, 1 Ngorongoro ridge 6.11 and 2 en route to Arusha 11.11.

Crows, Jays and Magpies Corvidae Cape Crow Corvus capensis kordofanensis 2 near Naabi Hill Gate, Serengeti NP 6.11 and 11 in the same area 9.11. Pied Crow Corvus albus Common throughout, especially in towns and villages. Seen every day except in the Serengeti. White-necked Raven Corvus albicollis 2 Arusha NP 3.11 and 2 Ngorongoro ridge 6.11.

Fairy Flycatchers Stenostiridae White-tailed Blue Flycatcher Elminia albicauda 2 or 3 birds on Ngorongoro ridge 6.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 23

Tits Paridae Red-throated Tit Melaniparus fringillinus A pair in Serengeti NP 7.11 and 2 singles in Serengeti NP 8.11.

Penduline Tits Remizidae Grey Penduline Tit Anthoscopus caroli 1 was seen very well in Tarangire NP 4.11.

Larks Alaudidae Beesley’s Lark Chersomanes beesleyi 2 at the Lark Plains 2.11. Fischer’s Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix leucopareia Frequently seen at Oldonyo Sambu, Serengeti NP and Ngorongoro crater, with up to 30 per day. Foxy Lark Calendulauda alopex intercedens 1 at the Lark Plains 2.11 and 1 in Serengeti NP 8.11. Rufous-naped Lark Mirafra africana 2 Arusha NP 3.11, up to 20 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11 and 2 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Flappet Lark Mirafra rufocinnamomea Singles each day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11. Short-tailed Lark Spizocorys fremantlii delamerei 2 at the Lark Plains 2.11. Red-capped Lark Calandrella cinerea 20 Lark Plains 2.11, at least 100 near Olduvai Gorge 6.11 and at least 6 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Athi Short-toed Lark Alaudala athensis 3 at the Lark Plains 2.11.

Bulbuls Pycnonotidae Dark-capped Bulbul Pycnonotus tricolor Common in highland areas and seen on most days, except in Tarangire and Serengeti. Mountain Greenbul Arizelocichla nigriceps 6 Arusha NP 3.11. Stripe-faced Greenbul Arizelocichla striifacies 1 Arusha NP 3.11. Yellow-bellied Greenbul Chlorocichla flaviventris 1 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and 1 en route to Arusha 11.11. Grey-olive Greenbul Phyllastrephus cerviniventris schoutedeni At least 1 at Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. Placid Greenbul Phyllastrephus placidus 1 at Angata Camp, Ngorongoro 10.11.

Swallows and Martins Hirundinidae Black Saw-wing Psalidoprocne pristoptera Small numbers seen on 5 days with a peak count of 20 at Arusha NP 3.11.

Brown-throated Martin Riparia paludicola At least 10 at Arusha NP 3.11. Banded Martin Riparia cincta suahelica 2 singles in Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 24

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica rustica Common and seen most days. Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii smithii 20 Arusha NP 3.11. Rock Martin Ptyonoprogne fuligula rufigula 6 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, 2 Ngorongoro ridge 6.11 and 2 Serengeti NP 9.11. Lesser Striped Swallow Cecropis abyssinica unitatis Small numbers seen on 6 days. Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica 1 Serengeti NP 9.11 and 4 Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Crombecs and African warblers Macrosphenidae Moustached Grass Warbler (H) Melocichla mentalis One was heard at Arusha NP 3.11. Red-faced Crombec Sylvietta whytii Singles at Serengeti NP 7.11 and 9.11.

Leaf warblers and allies Phylloscopidae Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus 1 Arusha NP 3.11 and 1 Serengeti NP 7.11.

Reed warblers and allies Acrocephalidae Lesser Swamp Warbler Acrocephalus gracilirostris 1 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and 2 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Iduna pallida elaeica 1 at the Lark Plains 2.11.

Grassbirds and allies Locustellidae Highland Rush Warbler Bradypterus centralis centralis 1 heard Arusha NP 3.11 and 1 seen briefly Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Cisticolas and allies Cisticolidae Red-faced Cisticola Cisticola erythrops 2 on Ngorongoro ridge 6.11. Singing Cisticola Cisticola cantans 1 heard Oldonyo Sambu 2.11 and 4 seen Arusha NP 3.11. Trilling Cisticola Cisticola woosnami About 10 Arusha NP 3.11 (mostly heard), 4 heard Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and 1 heard Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. Hunter’s Cisticola Cisticola hunteri Up to 6 seen and heard on Ngorongoro ridge 6.11 and 10.11. Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chiniana Very common throughout and seen almost every day, with up to 30 per day in Lake Manyara NP and Serengeti NP. Lynes’s Cisticola Cisticola distinctus 2 heard and seen briefly in Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Winding Cisticola Cisticola marginatus suahelicus Small numbers seen on 5 days in Tarangire NP, Serengeti NP and Ngorongoro crater.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 25

Croaking Cisticola Cisticola natalensis 2 Serengeti NP 8.11 and 4 Serengeti NP 9.11. Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis 1 Arusha 3.11, 2 Serengeti NP 7.11 and 2 Serengeti NP 8.11. Desert Cisticola Cisticola aridulus tanganyika At least 6 Serengeti NP 8.11 and 9.11. Pectoral-patch Cisticola Cisticola brunnescens At least 10 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11 and Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava Singles or pairs were seen or heard on 7 days, with a peak count of 6 on 5.11. Buff-bellied Warbler Phyllolais pulchella 1 Tarangire NP 4.11. Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida 2 at the Lark Plains 2.11 and 2 Serengeti NP 9.11, including one in its nest outside the tents. Black-headed Apalis Apalis melanocephala 2 at Arusha NP 3.11 were hard to see well. Karamoja Apalis (VU) Apalis karamojae stronachi A pair showed really well in Serengeti NP 8.11. Brown-headed Apalis Apalis alticola alticola 2 on Ngorongoro ridge 6.11. Red-fronted Warbler Urorhipis rufifrons smithi 6 at the Lark Plains 2.11. Grey-capped Warbler Eminia lepida 1 en route to Arusha 11.11. Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata Commonly heard and a few seen well too. Recorded on 8 days with a peak count of 20 at Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis 2 Serengeti NP 7.11 and 3 Serengeti NP 8.11.

Laughingthrushes and allies Leiothrichidae Rufous Chatterer Argya rubiginosa A party of 8 at Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Arrow-marked Babbler Turdoides jardineii 1 Arusha NP 3.11, 2 Tarangire NP 4.11, 4 Tarangire NP 5.11 and 6 Karatu 6.11. Northern Pied Babbler Turdoides hypoleuca Two parties of 5 birds in Tarangire NP 4.11 and a group of 6 en route to Arusha 11.11. Black-lored Babbler Turdoides sharpei sharpei Three groups in Serengeti NP 7.11 and another 9.11.

Sylviid Babblers Sylviidae African Hill Babbler Pseudoalcippe abyssinica 1 seen very briefly on Ngorongoro ridge 10.11. Banded Parisoma Sylvia boehmi boehmi 10 on the Lark Plains 2.11 and up to 6 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11; always very vocal.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 26

White-eyes Zosteropidae Mbulu White-eye Zosterops mbuluensis 1 seen briefly on Ngorongoro ridge 6.11. Broad-ringed White-eye Zosterops eurycricotus A pair and a single seen on two occasions in Arusha NP 3.11.

Starlings Sturnidae Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea 20 Tarangire NP 4.11 and 4 Serengeti NP 8.11. Greater Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus sycobius 6 in flight at Arusha 3.11 and 1 en route to Ngorongoro 5.11. Rüppell’s Starling Lamprotornis purpuroptera purpuroptera Up to 15 per day Serengeti NP 7–9.11. Superb Starling Lamprotornis superbus Very common throughout and seen every day, often in good numbers. Hildebrandt’s Starling Lamprotornis hildebrandti About 20 at the Lark Plains 2.11, 3 en route to Serengeti NP 6.11, 15 Serengeti NP 7.11 and 2 Serengeti NP 8.11. Ashy Starling Lamprotornis unicolor Very common in Tarangire NP 4–5.11, with up to 50 per day. Fischer’s Starling Lamprotornis fischeri 2 showed well for some at the Lark Plains 2.11. Violet-backed Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster 1 en route to Tarangire NP 4.11 (leader only). Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio morio Pairs at Oldonyo Sambu 2.11, Arusha NP 3.11 and Tarangire NP 4.11 and 5.11. Kenrick’s Starling Poeoptera kenricki kenricki 2 showed well at Arusha NP 3.11.

Oxpeckers Buphagidae Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus africanus Up to 4 per day in Serengeti NP 6–9.11 and 2 in Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorynchus 10 Arusha NP 3.11, 10 Tarangire NP 4.11, 4 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and 2 Serengeti NP 7.11 and 9.11.

Thrushes and allies Turdidae Bare-eyed Thrush Turdus tephronotus 1 at the Lark Plains 2.11. Abyssinian Thrush Turdus abyssinicus 2 at Angata Camp, Ngorongoro 10.11.

Chats and Old World Flycatchers Muscicapidae White-browed Scrub Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys 4 at the Lark Plains 2.11, 2 Oldonyo Sambu 2.11, 1 Serengeti NP 7.11 and 3 Serengeti NP 9.11. White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher Melaenornis fischeri 4 Arusha NP 3.11, 4 Ngorongoro ridge 6.11 and 1 Ngorongoro ridge 10.11. African Grey Flycatcher Melaenornis microrhynchus microrhynchus Common throughout and seen most days, with a peak count of 20 at the Lark Plains 2.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 27

Silverbird Empidornis semipartitus 1 en route to Lake Manyara 5.11, 1 at Naabi Hill Gate 6.11 and up to 15 per day in Serengeti NP 7– 9.11. Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata 1 Arusha NP 3.11 and 1 Serengeti NP 8.11. African Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta 6 Arusha NP 3.11 and 2 Ngorongoro ridge 6.11. Cape Robin-Chat Cossypha caffra iolaema 4 Arusha NP 3.11, 2 Ngorongoro ridge 6.11 and 1 Ngorongoro ridge 10.11. Rüppell’s Robin-Chat Cossypha semirufa intercedens 2 Arusha NP 3.11, 1 Karatu 6.11, 2 Karatu 11.11 and 3 Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. White-browed Robin-Chat Cossypha heuglini 4 at a roadside stop en route to Arusha 11.11. White-starred Robin Pogonocichla stellata 1 Arusha NP 3.11 was hard to see. Common Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis 1 female in Serengeti NP 8.11. African Stonechat Saxicola torquatus 3 Arusha NP 3.11, 1 Ngorongoro ridge 6.11 and 3 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Sooty Chat Myrmecocichla nigra One male in Serengeti NP 7.11, at the southern edge of its range. Anteater Chat Myrmecocichla aethiops cryptoleuca About 20 in Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe oenanthe A total of at least 10 birds were seen on 5 days at various sites. Capped Wheatear Oenanthe pileata livingstonii About 20 at the Lark Plains 2.11, 10 en route to Serengeti 6.11, 2 Serengeti NP 8.11, 1 Serengeti NP 9.11 and 6 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina 4 Oldonyo Sambu 2.11, 1 en route to Tarangire NP 4.11 and 3 Serengeti NP 9.11. Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka 2 at the Lark Plains 2.11. Abyssinian Wheatear Oenanthe lugubris schalowi 6 Oldonyo Sambu 2.11 and 6 Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Sunbirds Nectariniidae Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird Anthreptes orientalis 1 at the Lark Plains 2.11, 2 Tarangire NP 4.11, 1 Tarangire NP 5.11 and 2 at Olduvai Gorge, Serengeti 6.11. Collared Sunbird Hedydipna collaris 2 Arusha NP 3.11. Olive Sunbird Cyanomitra olivacea 1 Arusha NP 3.11. Amethyst Sunbird Chalcomitra amethystina 2 Arusha 1.11, 1 Oldonyo Sambu 2.11 and 2 Arusha NP 3.11. Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis 2 Arusha 1.11, 1 Arusha 2.11, 1 Lark Plains 2.11, 2 Arusha NP 3.11, 1 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and 1 Serengeti NP 7.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 28

Tacazze Sunbird Nectarinia tacazze jacksoni 1 male in the hotel garden at Karatu 11.11. Bronzy Sunbird Nectarinia kilimensis 1 Oldonyo Sambu 2.11, 4 Arusha NP 3.11, 1 Ngorongoro ridge 6.11, 1 Ngorongoro ridge 10.11 and 1 Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. Golden-winged Sunbird Drepanorhynchus reichenowi reichenowi 2 females at Arusha NP 3.11 and 1 male Ngorongoro ridge 6.11. Eastern Double-collared Sunbird Cinnyris mediocris 6 Ngorongoro ridge 6.11 and 2 Ngorongoro ridge 10.11. Beautiful Sunbird Cinnyris pulchellus melanogastrus 4 Lark Plains 2.11, 4 Tarangire NP 4.11, 2 Serengeti NP 7.11 and 2 Serengeti NP 9.11. Marico Sunbird Cinnyris mariquensis suahelicus A pair in Serengeti NP 7.11. Variable Sunbird Cinnyris venustus falkensteini Frequent sightings with up to 6 per day; recorded on 6 days.

Old World Sparrows Passeridae House Sparrow Passer domesticus domesticus About 10 in Arusha 1–2.11, 15 at Olduvai Gorge 6.11 and 2 en route to Arusha 11.11. Kenya Sparrow Passer rufocinctus 4 Oldonyo Sambu 2.11, 2 Olduvai Gorge 6.11, up to 10 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11 and 10 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Swahili Sparrow Passer suahelicus Common throughout and seen on 8 days, with up to 10 per day. Chestnut Sparrow Passer eminibey About 20 at Oldonyo Sambu 2.11, 2 males in Serengeti NP 8.11 and 4 in Serengeti NP 9.11. Yellow-spotted Bush Sparrow (Y-s Petronia) Gymnoris pyrgita pyrgita Singles or pairs seen on 5 days at the Lark Plains, Tarangire NP and Serengeti NP.

Weavers and Widowbirds Ploceidae Red-billed Buffalo Weaver Bubalornis niger intermedius At least 30 Tarangire NP 4.11 and 2 Serengeti NP 9.11. White-headed Buffalo Weaver Dinemellia dinemelli Common in Tarangire NP and Serengeti NP with up to 20 per day. Rufous-tailed Weaver Histurgops ruficauda 6 Tarangire NP 4.11 and up to 20 per day in Serengeti NP 6–9.11. Very common in Ngorongoro crater 10.11 with about 100 birds recorded. Grey-capped Social Weaver Pseudonigrita arnaudi 1 at the Lark Plains 2.11 and up to 15 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11. Speckle-fronted Weaver Sporopipes frontalis emini 10 Tarangire NP 4.11, 6 en route to Serengeti 6.11 and up to 12 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11. Thick-billed Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons 1 building a nest on the outskirts of Arusha 3.11 and 10 at Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. Baglafecht Weaver Ploceus baglafecht Common in small numbers in the highlands with up to 10 per day; seen on 7 days. Little Weaver Ploceus luteolus kavirondensis 1, possibly 2, birds in Serengeti NP 7.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 29

Black-necked Weaver Ploceus nigricollis 1 at a nest at the Lark Plains 2.11. Taveta Weaver Ploceus castaneiceps At least 6 at Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. Lesser Masked Weaver Ploceus intermedius Small numbers recorded on 6 days, notably around Angata Camp in the Serengeti. Vitelline Masked Weaver Ploceus vitellinus uluensis 10 at Olduvai Gorge 6.11 and 6 en route to Arusha 11.11. Speke’s Weaver Ploceus spekei 20 Arusha NP 3.11 and 20 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Village Weaver Ploceus cucullatus About 10 at the hotel in Arusha 1.11 and 2.11. Golden-backed Weaver Ploceus jacksoni 1 at the hotel in Arusha 1.11 and 3 there 2.11. Chestnut Weaver Ploceus rubiginosus rubiginosus Up to 6 at the hotel in Arusha 1.11 and 2.11. Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps 2 Arusha NP 3.11. Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea aethiopica About 30 Oldonyo Sambu 2.11. Southern Red Bishop Euplectes orix About 20 at the rice fields en route to Lake Manyara 5.11. Yellow Bishop Euplectes capensis crassirostris Singles on Ngorongoro ridge 10.11 and 11.11. Fan-tailed Widowbird Euplectes axillaris 4 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and about 200 in Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Red-collared Widowbird Euplectes ardens 1 Ngorongoro ridge 6.11, 1 Olduvai Gorge 6.11, 15 at Angata Camp, Ngorongoro 10.11 and 1 en route to Arusha 11.11.

Waxbills, Munias and allies Estrildidae Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala ruberrima Singles or pairs seen on 5 days, but not in the Serengeti. Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu Uraeginthus bengalus Small numbers seen on 6 days, with a peak count of 10 at Lake Manyara NP; up to 8 per day in Serengeti NP. Blue-capped Cordon-bleu Uraeginthus cyanocephalus 6 Tarangire NP 4.11, 4 Serengeti NP 7.11 and 2 Serengeti NP 8.11. Purple Grenadier Uraeginthus ianthinogaster 1 Oldonyo Sambu 2.11, up to 6 per day Serengeti NP 7–9.11 and 1 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Black-faced Waxbill Estrilda erythronotos delamerei Two pairs in Serengeti NP 9.11. Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullata scutata 1 Arusha NP 3.11 and 8 en route to Tarangire NP 4.11.

Indigobirds Viduidae Village Indigobird Vidua chalybeata 1 female in Tarangire NP 5.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 30

Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura 4 in non-breeding plumage at Arusha 3.11.

Wagtails and Pipits Motacillidae Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava About 20 at the rice fields en route to Lake Manyara 5.11 and 4 in Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Several were nominate flava, and one bird in Ngorongoro was the race lutea. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea One on a small stream in Arusha NP 3.11. African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp vidua 6 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, 1 Karatu 6.11, 1 Serengeti NP 9.11 and 2 Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. Yellow-throated Longclaw Macronyx croceus 3 seen distantly in Arusha NP 3.11. Rosy-throated Longclaw Macronyx ameliae 2 birds seen well in Ngorongoro crater 10.11. African Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus Singles or pairs seen on 5 days, at the Lark Plains, Arusha NP, Serengeti and Ngorongoro crater. Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis 1 Oldonyo Sambu 2.11, 1 Arusha NP 3.11 and 2 Serengeti NP 8.11. Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys Up to 5 per day in Serengeti NP 6–9.11 and 4 in Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Finches Fringillidae Oriole Finch (H) Linurgus olivaceus kilimensis 1 heard Ngorongoro ridge 6.11. Southern Citril Crithagra hyposticta hyposticta 1 or 2 birds seen in Arusha 1–2.11 and 1 in Arusha NP 3.11. Reichenow’s Seedeater Crithagra reichenowi 4 Lake Manyara NP 5.11. White-bellied Canary Crithagra dorsostriata 2 at the Lark Plains 2.11, 4 Oldonyo Sambu 2.11, 6 Tarangire NP 5.11, and up to 4 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11. Southern Grosbeak-Canary Crithagra buchanani 2 single males at the Lark Plains 2.11. Streaky Seedeater Crithagra striolata striolata 2 Oldonyo Sambu 2.11, 2 Arusha NP 3.11 and 6 Ngorongoro ridge 10.11. Yellow-crowned Canary Serinus flavivertex 2 Ngorongoro ridge 10.11 and 1 en route to Arusha 11.11.

Old World Buntings Emberizidae Golden-breasted Bunting Emberiza flaviventris kalaharica 1 seen by some at Arusha NP 3.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 31

Annotated List of Mammals Recorded (42 species in total: 41 seen, 1 heard)

Elephants Elephantidae African Elephant Loxodonta africana 50 Tarangire NP 4.11, 8 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, up to 100 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11 and 1 Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Hyraxes Procaviidae Southern Tree Hyrax Dendrohyrax arboreus 1 heard at Angata Camp, Ngorongoro 9.11. Rock Hyrax Procavia capensis About 20 at the Visitor Centre, Serengeti NP 8.11 and 2 in more natural surroundings in Serengeti NP 9.11.

Old World Monkeys Cercopithecidae Blue Monkey Cercopithecus mitis 10 Arusha NP 3.11 and 6 Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Vervet Chlorocebus pygerythrus 20 Tarangire NP 4.11, 10 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and up to 20 per day Serengeti NP 7–9.11. Guereza Colobus guereza 12 Arusha NP 3.11 and 5 Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. Olive Baboon Papio anubis 50 Arusha NP 3.11, more than 500 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 (including one group of 200 individuals), 50 Ngorongoro ridge 6.11, only 10 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11 and 15 Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Rabbits and Hares Leporidae Cape Hare Lepus capensis 2 at the Lark Plains 2.11. African Savanna Hare Lepus microtis 6 Serengeti NP 6.11 (all at night).

True Mice and Rats, Gerbils, Spiny Mice, Crested Rat Muridae African Grass Rat Arvicanthis niloticus At least 6 Serengeti NP 9.11 and 10 Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Squirrels Sciuridae Ochre Bush Squirrel Paraxerus ochraceus 1 Arusha NP 3.11, 1 Tarangire NP 5.11 and 2 Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 11.11. Unstriped Ground Squirrel Xerus rutilus 3 Lark Plains 2.11 and 2 Tarangire NP 4.11.

Cats Felidae Cheetah Acinonyx jubatus fearsoni Superb views of a male in Serengeti NP 9.11, and another more distant one later the same day. Wild Cat Felis silvestris 1 ran across the road at speed en route to Ngorongoro 9.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 32

Serval Leptailurus serval A magical encounter of 1 in Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Lion Panthera leo leo 2 sleeping males in Tarangire NP 4.11, 5 alseep in trees at Lake Manyara NP 5.11, up to 9 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11 and 7 in Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Leopard Panthera pardus pardus 1 climbing a tree in Serengeti NP 7.11 and 2 more Serengeti NP 8.11 (one on rocks and the other draped over a branch).

Mongooses Herpestidae Common Dwarf Mongoose Helogale parvula 5 Tarangire NP 4.11, 1 Tarangire NP 5.11 and 8 Serengeti NP 8.11. Slender Mongoose Herpestes sanguineus 1 Serengeti NP 7.11 and 1 Serengeti NP 9.11. Banded Mongoose Mungos mungo 6 Tarangire NP 4.11, 1 Serengeti NP 6.11, about 50 Serengeti NP 7.11 (several different groups including one of about 30 individuals), and 10 Serengeti NP 9.11.

Hyaenas Hyaenidae Spotted Hyaena Crocuta crocuta Up to 10 per day Serengeti NP 6–9.11 and 10 Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Wolves and Jackals Canidae Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas 2 Serengeti NP 7.11, 1 Serengeti NP 9.11 and 4 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. African Golden Wolf Canis anthus 1 Serengeti NP 9.11 and 2 Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Zebras Equidae Plains Zebra Equus quagga boehmi About 80 Arusha NP 3.11, 100 Tarangire NP 4.11 and 20 Lake Manyara NP 5.11. In Serengeti NP there were many hundreds every day, often with wildebeest, and smaller numbers in Ngorongoro.

Rhinceroses Rhinocerotidae Black Rhinoceros Diceros bicornis 1 distant individual in Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Pigs Suidae Common Warthog Phacochoerus africanus massaicus 50 Arusha NP 3.11, 10 Tarangire NP 4.11, 6 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, up to 12 per day Serengeti NP 6– 9.11 and 6 Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Hippopotamuses Hippopotamidae Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius amphibius 15 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, up to 150 per day in Serengeti NP 6–9.11 and 100 Ngorongoro crater 10.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 33

Cattle, Antelopes, Sheep and Goats Bovidae Impala Aepyceros melampus melampus Hundreds seen throughout the tour in Tarangire NP 4.11, Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and Serengeti NP 6– 9.11. Absent from Ngorongoro crater. Hartebeest (Kongoni) Alcelaphus buselaphus cokii 8 Serengeti NP 6.11, 20 Serengeti NP 8.11, 1 Serengeti NP 9.11 and 1 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Harvey’s Duiker Cephalophus harveyi 4 singles in Arusha NP 3.11. Common Wildebeest Connochaetes taurinus Eastern White-bearded form C. t. albojubatus: up to 30 per day in Tarangire NP 4–5.11. Western White-bearded form C. t. mearnsi: thousands daily in Serengeti NP 6–9.11, especially in the Seronera area. Small numbers also in Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Topi Damaliscus lunatus jimela Up to 30 per day in Serengeti NP 7–9.11, usually in small groups. Thomson’s Gazelle Eudorcas thomsoni Eastern form E. t. thomsoni: 6 Lark Plains 2.11. Serengeti form E. t. nasalis: hundreds seen daily in Serengeti NP 6–9.11. Small numbers also in Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus Ellipsen form K. e. ellipsiprymnus: 30 Arusha NP 3.11, up to 40 per day Tarangire NP 4–5.11, 4 Lake Manyara NP 5.11. Defassa form K. e. defassa: 4 en route to Serengeti 6.11. Kirk’s Dik-dik Madoqua kirkii Thomas’s Dik-dik M. k. thomasi: 2 Lark Plains 2.11, 2 Arusha NP 3.11, 6 Tarangire NP 4.11, 2 Tarangire NP 5.11. Cavendish’s Dik-dik M. k. cavendishi: up to 4 per day Serengeti NP 6–9.11. Grant’s Gazelle Nanger granti Usually in small numbers in Serengeti NP, often mixed in with Thomson’s Gazelle. Peak counts of 50 on 8.11 and 120 on 9.11. Also 20 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Steenbok Raphicerus campestris 1 Serengeti NP 9.11. Bohor Reedbuck Redunca redunca 2 Tarangire NP 4.11, 6 Serengeti NP 8.11 and 2 Serengeti NP 9.11. African Buffalo Syncerus caffer 40 Arusha NP 3.11, 30 Lake Manyara NP 5.11, up to 20 per day Serengeti NP 6–9.11, and 50 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Common Eland Tragelaphus oryx 8 near Olduvai Gorge 6.11, 2 Serengeti NP 9.11 and 3 Ngorongoro crater 10.11. Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus About 20 Arusha NP 3.11.

Giraffes Giraffidae Giraffe (Maasai Giraffe) Giraffa Camelopardalis tippelskirchi 20 Arusha NP 3.11, 4 Tarangire NP 4.11, 8 Lake Manyara NP 5.11 and up to 10 per day Serengeti NP 6–9.11.

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania Trip Report – RBL Tanzania – Highlights of the North 2019 34

Annotated List of Reptiles (6 species)

Tortoises Testudinidae Leopard Tortoise Stigmochelys pardalis babcocki One Serengeti NP 7.11.

Agamas Agamidae Common Agama (Red-headed Rock Agama) Agama agama lionotus One Oldonyo Sambu 2.11. Mwanza Flat-headed Agama Agama mwanzae Several in Serengeti NP 7–8.11. Tropical Spiny Agama Agama armata One at a roadside stop 2.11.

Geckos Gekkonidae House Gecko (Tropical House Gecko) Hemidactylus mabouia Singles in Arusha 2.11 and Tarangire NP 5.11.

Skinks Scincidae African Striped Skink Trachylepis striata striata Singles in Arusha 1–2.11.

Leopard on rocks by Nigel Redman ______

Rockjumper Birding Ltd Suite 1D, 5 Clarens Fields Tel: (USA & Canada) toll-free: 1-888-990-5552 Unicity Office Park Email: [email protected] Black River Road, Bambous Alternative email: [email protected] Mauritius Website: www.rockjumperbirding.com

Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Tanzania