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Sensory Knowledge and Embodied Cultural Capital

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Sensory Knowledge and Embodied Cultural Capital SENSORY KNOWLEDGE AND EMBODIED CULTURAL CAPITAL AMONG COFFEE CONNOISSUERS IN WEST AND CENTRAL ALABAMA by MICHAEL DODSON JASON DECARO, COMMITTEE CHAIR KATHRYN OTHS SONYA E. PRITZKER KIRK SUMMERS A THESIS Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts in the Department of Anthropology in the Graduate School of The University of Alabama TUSCALOOSA, ALABAMA 2019 Copyright Michael Dodson 2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVE ABSTRACT Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste (1984) by Pierre Bourdieu is arguably the most influential book on consumption practices in anthropology. The purpose of the book is to describe the concept of cultural capital in creating and maintaining social difference. Cultural capital acts in conjunction with economic and social capital to situate individuals in social space. The contemporary popularity of artisan and craft goods calls for a reexamination of cultural capital’s role in creating class boundaries in the United States. My research explores cultural capital in the new movement of third wave coffee. Using methods developed in cognitive anthropology, namely cultural consensus analysis and residual agreement analysis, I explored cultural knowledge and cultural capital among the third wave coffee community of Tuscaloosa and Birmingham, Alabama. I was specifically focused on the cultural capital, in the form of sensory, to distinguish connoisseur consumers from casual consumers. Studies of capital and class are particularly important in third wave coffee, and related craft movements This is because these industries appear to be changing the status quo by bringing economic capital into the communities in which their product is created or sourced. While these industries may be changing one aspect of the status quo they are most likely maintaining other aspects of the status quo by recreating class divisions in modern consumption patterns. ii LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS AND SYMBOLS CCA Cultural Consensus Analysis RA Residual Agreement Analysis SCA Specialty Coffee Association SCAA Specialty Coffee Association of America iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS A thesis is far from a one-person project. I am indebted to countless individuals who lent me their time, advice, expertise and wisdom. First and foremost, I’d like to express my gratitude to all my informants, without whom this research could not have been completed. I’d like to give a special thanks to my informants Vee, Evan and Kelly. Not only did they volunteer their time, but they also went out of their way to connect me with more informants. I am especially indebted to my committee chair Dr. Jason DeCaro, for his support, guidance and expertise in anthropological research. I would also like to thank my committee members, Dr. Kathryn Oths, Dr. Sonya E. Pritzker and Dr. Kirk Summers for their input and encouragement throughout my research. Without my fellow cohorts this project would have never been completed. They provided crucial advice during my research, but more importantly they provided companionship and moral support throughout my graduate school career. I am also indebted to my family who constantly encouraged me to succeed. Lastly, I’d like to thank my partner, Toni, for her expertise on the topic and her everlasting moral support. iv CONTENTS ABSTRACT .................................................................................................................................... ii LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS AND SYMBOLS .......................................................................... iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ........................................................................................................... iv LIST OF TABLES ........................................................................................................................ vii LIST OF FIGURES ..................................................................................................................... viii INTRODUCTION .......................................................................................................................... 1 Aims ............................................................................................................................................ 1 Objectives .................................................................................................................................... 2 Methods ....................................................................................................................................... 3 Significance ................................................................................................................................. 4 BACKGROUND ............................................................................................................................ 5 Identifying Third Wave Coffee ................................................................................................... 5 Bourdieu, Consumption and Practice Theory ........................................................................... 11 Cognitive Anthropology ............................................................................................................ 15 Practice Theory and Cognitive Theory ..................................................................................... 22 METHODS ................................................................................................................................... 25 Design ........................................................................................................................................ 25 Author’s Background in Third Wave Coffee ............................................................................ 26 Population .................................................................................................................................. 28 Sampling .................................................................................................................................... 29 Data Collection .......................................................................................................................... 30 Data Analysis ............................................................................................................................ 35 RESULTS ..................................................................................................................................... 39 Interview Data ........................................................................................................................... 39 v Structured Interview............................................................................................................... 39 Recurring Themes .................................................................................................................. 47 Questionnaire Data .................................................................................................................... 57 Descriptives............................................................................................................................ 57 CCA and RA .......................................................................................................................... 59 DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION .......................................................................................... 70 Hypothesis 1 .............................................................................................................................. 71 Hypothesis 2 .............................................................................................................................. 73 Hypothesis 3 .............................................................................................................................. 78 Greater Importance .................................................................................................................... 80 Conclusions ............................................................................................................................... 80 REFERENCES ............................................................................................................................. 82 APPENDIX A – Research Documents ......................................................................................... 86 vi LIST OF TABLES 1. List of Questionnaire Items Unranked…………………………………………………….…33 2. Complete List of Items in Residual Plot…………………………..…………………………47 3. Annual Income in US Dollars…………….………………………………………………….58 4. Comparison of Group Cultural Competence Coefficients…………………………………...61 5. Comparison of Group Residual Coefficients………………………………………………...63 vii LIST OF FIGURES 1. Social Space……………………………………………………………………..……….12 2. Residual Plot………………………………………………….………………………….65 3. Very Familiar vs. Familiar Residual Space…………………………..………………….66 4. Multidimensional Scaling of Tasting Notes - “Very Familiar” Group…………………..67 5. Multidimensional Scaling of Tasting Notes – “Familiar” Group………………..………68 viii INTRODUCTION Aims Over the last few decades artisan and craft goods, like bean to bar chocolate and craft beer, have become increasingly popular. This is partially due to the growing Slow and Local foods movement which seeks to restore products’ connections to their place of origin (Roos et al 2007). These goods seemingly disrupt the status quo by putting revenue back into local communities, as opposed to large corporate conglomerates. Of the array of artisan goods hitting the market, “third
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