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VIETNAM SEPTEMBER 2013

Martial Matters Time to Tackle Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu PAGE 20

The Heavy Hand Corporal Punishment for Misbehaving Kids PAGE 26

Nomadic Family A Family of Five on a Global Odyssey PAGE 56

The Simple Life Quietness and Serenity on Thanh Da Island PAGE 90 Nip Tuck Tan is missing out?

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VIETNAM SEPTEMBER 2013

MARTIAL MATTERS Time to Tackle Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu PAGE 20

THE HEAVY HAND Corporal Punishment Everywhere you go for Misbehaving Kids PAGE 26

NOMADIC FAMILY A Family of Five on a Global Odyssey PAGE 56

THE SIMPLE LIFE Quietness and Serenity on Thanh Da Island PAGE 90 Director Xuan Tran

Business Consultant robert stockdill Nip Tuck Tan [email protected] IS VIETNAM MISSING OUT?

NHÀ XUÂT BAN THANH NIÊN 1 Managing Editor Christine Van [email protected] This Month’s Cover Deputy Editor James Pham Image: Nam Quan [email protected] Model: Amanda Wotring Hair and Makeup: Kenny Lieu Fashion Editor James Allen [email protected]

Creative Director Paolo Maling [email protected]

Photographer at Large Quinn Ryan Mattingly [email protected]

Staff Photographer Nam Quan [email protected]

Graphic Artist HIEN NGUYEN [email protected]

Distribution & Administration Manager Phuong Huynh [email protected] 090 904 4430

For advertising please contact: Julian Ajello [email protected] 093 700 9910 ƠI VIỆT NAM NGAN NGUYEN [email protected] 090 279 7951 NHÀ XUẤT BẢN THANH NIÊN Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Đoàn Minh Tuấn Biên tập: Nguyễn Giang - Quang Hùng THUY PHAM [email protected] Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: 090 384 1069 Metro Advertising Co.,Ltd 231-233 Lê Thánh Tôn, Phường Bến Thành, Jimmy van der Kloet Quận 1 [email protected] 094 877 9219 In lần thứ bảy, số lượng 6000 cuốn, khổ 21cm x 29,7cm Đăng ký KHXB: 1110-2013/CXB/4 -52/TN QĐXB số: 366/QĐ-TN/CN

General [email protected] Chế bản và in tại nhà in Lê Quang Lộc Nộp lưu chiểu tháng 4/2013

Inquiries [email protected] Website: www.oivietnam.com

4 5 Contents

TRAVEL & LEISURE A BIKE AND A BACKPACK Experiencing 's scenic east coast by pedal power

58 FEATURES P10 datebook P16 THROUGH THE LENS P24 A STAR IS BORN With these events, you'll never have to Old gives way to new in Saigon's A Japanese cooking studio where bored again relentless march towards urbanization style meets taste P12 troi oi P20 Martial matters P26 THE HEAVY HAND See why pangolins, warships and a bathrobe A Brazilian form of Japanese Jiu-Jitsu comes The state of corporal punishment made our noteworthy numbers this month to HCMC in Vietnam P14 the bulletin P22 A THOUSAND PAPER CRANES P56 THE NOMADIC FAMILY What new promos and exciting places are artist Nguyen Hung Cuong's A family in their third year of non-stop here this month? origami for the 21st century world travel shows how it's done

6 Cover story Nip/tuck/tan A guided tour of medical in Vietnam

30 7 WINE & DINE Restaurant Reviews Oi reviews the shochu-fueled authenticity of Robata Dining An, samples an eclectic menu at Hatvala, and then finishes the culinary tour off with a fusion feast at White Forest

40 columns P28 SAIGON MYTHBUSTERS P84 LEGAL EASE P96 HIGHER LEARNING Does mandatory motorbike insurance actually What to do when you're stuck Justifying the high tuitions of protect you? with a defective product? international schools P29 JOIN THE CLUB P85 FOUND 404 P97 POSTCARDS FROM VIETNAM Born to be wild with the Saigon HOGs Is Vietnam ready for mobile payments? The rhythms of life along the water

P44 FLAVOR OF THE MONTH P86 MONEY TALKS the outer districts Wine tasting 101 Setting aside for retirement in Vietnam P90 THE SIMPLE LIFE P60 LIFE'S A TRIP P94 THE SYLLABUS Exploring Thanh Da’s surprising country vibe Tips for becoming the world's smartest traveler English speaking Vietnamese youth - fantasy or reality?

8 Editor’s ISSUE NO. 7 Note september 2013 Club Med

The first time I visited a dental clinic a matter of too close quarters. So when I in Vietnam on the recommendation of read Gabi Klaf's grippingly truthful article, a friend, I was amazed. I'm not exactly The Nomadic Family, on the ups and downs sure what I was expecting, but it surely her family of five have experienced over 30 wasn't nice, clean, well-equipped facilities months of non-stop travel, I had to take my run by efficient staff with a dentist who hat off to them. She sums her experience up spoke English. When I got the bill, I was beautifully: "After things explode in your even more taken aback: VND200,000. My face, you discover the raw, dusty, tearful, friends back home routinely pay 10 times beautiful, and real blessing in each and that amount. While I haven't used that every one of your family members." many medical services here in Vietnam, On my first visit to Thanh Da nine years recently I've been going for acupuncture ago, the tiny island of downtown for my carpal tunnel (the bane of working HCMC, I remember thinking that it was in publishing). My thrice weekly visits to very quaint, almost a kitschy representation a little clinic located in a nunnery provides of country life. I'm glad to see that not blissful relief, all for VND20,000 a visit, less much has changed. James Pham explores than the cost of lunch. the quieter side of city living in his article, This month,Oi investigates the state The Simple Life, which had me penciling in of medical tourism in Vietnam, as it a return trip to the rice fields and fishing reaches for a slice of the lucrative pie, now ponds of Thanh Da. dominated by heavyweights in the region In our sports feature, NPD Khanh covers like , and India, where Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu in Saigon. I remember the field has developed over the past decade thinking the first time I saw it that it was or so. Some of the experts we talked to were pretty violent. I immediately switched optimistic, while others came down pretty the channel. Then I chanced to see Royce hard. No matter how you feel about it, it's Gracie, whose family pioneered Brazilian definitely a relevant topic that every expat Jiu-Jitsu. Here was a guy significantly less has thought about at one point or another. bulky than his opponents, but who was Another controversial topic covered this able to submit them with such grace in month is discipline - to spank or not to the face of muscled aggression. He was a spank? Growing up, my father was an avid smooth operator. proponent of corporal punishment, perhaps My experience with origami is pretty too much so. Michael Arnold explores the much like every other kid's. I think I polarizing topic in an ‘East Meets West’ remember how to make a box and a ball, clash of opinions in The Heavy Hand. and everyone's favorite, a crane. But that's Whatever my father's faults, time has child's play compared to the mind-blowing faded certain memories somewhat. Now, he creations of Hanoi artist Nguyen Hung spends three months of every year with me Cuong. James Pham discovers the mind on his annual trips to Vietnam. Don't get me behind these amazing 3-D sculptures wrong, I appreciate having him around (and created from just a few sheets of paper especially the care packages he brings from and some serious ingenuity in A Thousand the US). We've bonded as never before. But Paper Cranes. after the first month, the luster begins to While we're covering several sobering wear as my apartment becomes ever more issues this month in medicine and child claustrophobic and we start to get on each rearing, there's also a lot to celebrate about other's nerves. Growing up, I remember Vietnam in this issue. As always, here’s to fun family trips to Coney Island and going your health! clamming. As adults, family travel took on a more sinister tone. I remember a family trip 12 years ago to Vietnam with my parents and five sisters that too often broke out in arguments over differing opinions about Christine Van what to do and where to go. It simply was Managing Editor

9 Datebook Fill up your calendar with these exciting events

SEPTEMBER 14

What: International Travel Expo Where: Saigon Exhibition and Convention Centre (799 Nguyen Van Linh, D7); free admission About: Always love to travel? Planning for your next holiday? Discover and choose from a wide range of exciting travel products from over 50 destinations. Take advantage of the best travel deals you can find, from airfare to accommodation and many more at the expo. There will also be travel professionals there to assist you. Win fabulous prizes by joining their campaigns and lucky draws. Contact: For more info, visit www.itehcmc.com

SEPTEMBER 13

What: Henry Saiz Album World Tour Where: 8pm at Cargo Bar (7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4); vouchers are VND250,000 in advance, VND350,000 at the door and include a free drink About: As a part of Henry Saiz’s album launch and world tour, his band will perform as he delivers one of his explosive DJ sets. His rising reputation earned Henry the honor of being asked to mix Balance Music’s 019 compilation. Following on from the likes of Timo Maas, Joris Voorn, Will Saul and Agoria, Henry’s addition to this world-renowned mix series has more than lived up to expectations SEPTEMBER 15 and has set a new benchmark in depth and quality. Contact: Vouchers available for purchase at Black Market, Bootleg DJ Café, Cargo Bar, What: Narrow the Gap Community Event Decibel, McSorley's, Saigon Outcast, Yoko, and www.keewi.me. More info can be Where: Q4 (7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4); 9am - found at facebook.com/events/410059192432118/ 12pm; ticket price in advance is VND220,000 and VND320,000 at the door About: The Narrow the Gap Community Event is an annual event and the final step in the Narrow the Gap Fund community voting process. This year, the NTG Fund and Event focus on helping disadvantaged children in HCMC. The event will feature a lot of fun games and activities, such as fair games, a photo booth, sand painting, balloons, raffles, and more, all of which will make for a great family Sunday for a good cause! In addition to the games three projects, run by local not-for-profit organizations helping children in need, will be presented. The presentations will include videos and information booths where guests can SEPTEMBER 14 meet the staff of the three non-profits running the projects. Guests will vote for their favorite project to help determine the size of the grant awarded to What: Art Market each project from the Narrow the Gap Fund, thus Where: VinGallery (2 Le Van Mien, D2); 10am – 4pm combining a great time with a good cause. About: An opportunity to see great work, meet the artists of paintings, drawings In addition to donating, HCMC residents are also and limited edition prints, photography, handmade jewelry, fashion and accessories, invited to help choose which projects will receive and more. There will be games for kids that includes paper craft, making your own funding. They can do so by voting for their favorite jewelry, and face painting. projects online or at the event. Contact: Visit www.vingallery.com for more info Contact: More information about the Narrow the Gap Fund and event is available at www.linvn.org

10 c BY g a rri s o n photogr phi IMAGE SEPTEMBER 28

What: Vietnam Swans’ AFL Grand Final Party Where: Boomarang Bistro (Crescent 2, 3-4 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7); from 9am – 4pm; adults tickets are VND1 million (pre purchase) or VND1.2 million (at the door); under 18 VND500,000 (pre purchase) or VND600,000 (at the door); kids under 12 are free About: The event is a significant fund raiser for the club and their charitable causes. While during the year they continually raise money for charitable events, the bulk of the profits from the party are what keeps the club going, play footy in Asia and supporting charities such as Swim Vietnam and others. Breakfast, lunch, drinks, raffles, auctions, big screen TVs and kids’ activities will be provided. There will also be an after-party at The Spotted Cow (111 Bui Vien, D1) with a courtesy bus provided. Contact: Tickets can be purchased at Commonwealth Bank (65 Nguyen Du, D1) and Boomarang Bistro. Visit www.vietnamswans.com for more info

SEPTEMBER 29

What: BBGV 13th Annual Fun Run Where: The Crescent, Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung from 7am – 10am About: This is a fun event and a great opportunity for team building while at the same time raising money for charities in Vietnam, including the Christina Noble Children's Foundation, Thien Chi Community Development & Support Center, Friends for Street Children Association, and Hagar International. Last year's event raised almost VND800 million and over 7,800 people participated in the event. They aim to increase the 'fun' element this year by introducing game booths. Contact: Email Tran directly at [email protected] or call 3829 8430

11 Troi Oi The city by the numbers

tons of pangolins were seized in . Hai Phong customs authorities said they have seized the pangolins smuggled in from at Hai Phong Port. Pangolins are protected under both the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora and Vietnamese law. Under the law, anyone who illegally hunts, kills, breeds or keeps endangered wild animals in captivity, or transports or trades their body parts, or products made from them, could be imprisoned for up to 6.2 seven years. They can also be fined up to VND500 million 375 dollars, the cost of a chenille microfiber shawl-collar robe at the Nam Hai, in Hoi An, named by Conde Nast as one of nine worldwide hotel bathrobes travelers will want to take home 530death-row inmates have been waiting for their execution ever since Vietnam decided to switch from firing squad to lethal injection in November 2011. The executions have recently began again after having stalled due to the unavailability of drugs

WWII ships, which mostly likely capsized, were discovered off the coast of Vung Tau last month by port authorities. Most of the ships, which are more than 100 meters long, belonged to , said Le Van Chien, director of Vung Tau port administration. They are situated 13-15 meters beneath the sea with most 12 of their bodies buried in the seabed VND2,000 charged by www.pub.vn for users to watch a Hollywood film online, prior to being issued an order by Vietnam's Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism to immediately remove films in violation of copyrights owned by members of the Motion Picture Association of America

12 13 The Bulletin Promotions and News in HCMC... Up on Top The Novotel Saigon Centre will debut its rooftop bar calledOn Top Bar (20th floor, 167 Hai Ba Trung, D3) on September 7. Along with offering expansive vistas of the city, the bar will have a menu with over 20 cheeses and authentic European charcuterie complemented by wines from around the world. Vietnamese and international inspired tapas are also on offer with an extensive cocktail menu featuring the latest cocktails from Europe -“Spritz” and “Hugo.” Happy Hour is available from Monday to Thursday with 50 percent off drinks. For more info, visit www.facebook.com/ontopbarsaigon or call 090 909 2779. 3D Virtual Museum The Vietnam National Museum of History in Hanoi has recently launched its experimental 3D virtual version, which is the first of its kind in Vietnam, on its website www.baotanglichsu.vn. The museum is showcasing two virtual galleries titled Vietnamese Buddhist Cultural Heritage and Vietnamese Ancient Lamps featuring 150 antiquities that are on display in the real museum with information on the objects in English and Vietnamese. According to Vu Manh Ha, Deputy Director of the museum, the cost for making a 3D virtual museum in Vietnam is three times lower than in other countries due to the lower technology and service price. However, he also added making 3D versions of all objects of the whole museum will cost a very large amount. “We hope that after touring the virtual museum, visitors will be encouraged to discover the real museum,” Ha said, adding he doesn’t want the virtual museum to overshadow the physical museum.

Eating at a Discount From now until September 15, Oi readers will receive a special 10 percent discount at Grillbar - Eatery & Cafe (122 Le Thanh Ton, D1; www.grillbar.com.vn). Grillbar is a New York style café specializing in Vietnamese charcoaled grilled food. They offer a set lunch menu priced at VND95,000 which includes a main course (choice of charcoal grilled chicken skewer baguette, or grilled pork marinated with chili sauce with broken rice or coconut rice), dessert (homemade yogurt with honey or cream caramel) and a drink (house tea, Vietnamese iced coffee, or sugarcane juice). Mention “Oi” when ordering.

Kindermusik Anniversary Kindermusik-Vietnam Early Childhood Education Center celebrates its first anniversary at the Crescent Residence 2, Phu My Hung. This premiere music and movement English language program for very young children from birth to seven-years-old invites new parents and children to attend a free class. From September 10 until December 1, there is a 10 percent discount offered for 12 weekly lessons that promote early literacy, social skills and more. Visit www.kindermusik-vietnam.com for more info

14 Lucky Number 13 While the number 13 is believed to be an unlucky one, at InterContinental Asiana Saigon they think differently. On September, Friday the 13th they will have special offers to make it a lucky night. Market 39 will offer a buffet dinner priced at VND613,000 VND++ per person including house wine, Tiger draught beer and soft drinks. While at Yu Chu it’s all-you-can-eat dim sum at VND313,000++ per person excluding beverage Email [email protected] for more info MoonCakes Whether you’re bringing them home for your family to enjoy or sending them as a special gift to clients or friends, theNew World Hotel has designed versatile moon cake boxes, which double up as a wine carrier case. Alternatively, use the many compartments for storing jewelry, cosmetics or other small items long after the mid- Autumn celebrations are done. Saigon Bakery’s moon cakes are priced at VND780,000 for a box of eight pieces (75g), VND800,000 for a box of four pieces (225g) and VND175,000 an individual cake (225g). Plus, purchase 10 to 20 boxes to receive five percent discount, 21 to 149 boxes to receive 10 percent discount, and 150 boxes or more to receive a 15 percent discount. Complimentary delivery to District 1 and District 3 on orders of 50 boxes or more. Platinum members will receive an additional five percent off the order total. Moon Cakes will be available until 19 September. For further info, email [email protected]. Mediterranean Medley Never content with just reveling in the success of his three restaurants – Ciao Bella, Blu Bar & Grill and Phat Phuc’s – Tony Fox is set to launch a Mediterranean inspired restaurant sometime at the end of September or early October. Slated to be called Mezze (51 Hai Ba Trung, D1), the place will offer mostly small plates (bigger than tapas but smaller than main courses) with items such as shakshuka (bell pepper and tomato stew with merguez sausage and egg), zucchini and feta fritters with caper yoghurt sauce, Persian pomegranate and walnut chicken, and Portuguese pork and clam stew with chorizo and potatoes in a paprika tomato sauce. Mezze will also feature fun Mediterranean décor. Signature Month At Indochine Spa (69 Thu Khoa Huan, D1), buy any Signature therapy, Signature Facial or Signature package, and receive a spa gift voucher. Located near Ben Thanh Market, Indochine Spa employs skillful therapists who use 100 percent natural products to ensure your treatment is relaxing and holistic. The staff can speak Cantonese, English, French, Japanese, and Vietnamese.

15 through the lens

Bridging the Gap

Saigon's soundtrack is unmistakable. Drills. Hammers. Machines at work. On every block, around every corner, the city is being razed and remodeled making way for renovation and growth. This onslaught of urbanization and globalization is leaving lasting impressions on Saigon's future. But what will become of the precarious dance between old and new? Can there be a balance? What are the costs of Saigon's inevitable progress? With every shiny skyscraper, tradition fades a bit more. The future is here. What will Saigon choose as its identity?

IMAGES and text BY LEE STARNES

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19 SPORTS

Martial Matters A Brazilian form of Japanese Jiu-Jitsu comes to HCMC Text by NPD Khanh Images by Nam Quan

Saigon Luta Livre sits in the last place two time international champion of No-Gi People are under a certain amount of pressure anyone would expect to find a foreign- Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu (BJJ). to be successful under the Western guideline. owned martial art studio, in a four-by-12 As Erik Koehne, the owner of Saigon Luta It’s not about being happy but about making apartment on the third floor of a decades-old Livre, puts it, he’s “been around the world.” money. It’s about being successful, and to me, Vietnamese building. The path that leads to it He’s seen London, Tokyo, Berlin, Chicago, achieving happiness is success,” says Erik. is a tiny alleyway branching off Tran Quang New York, Paris, Munich, and more. His Dieu Street, literally minutes away from the career as a professional BJJ master started From the Ground Up infamous Nhieu Loc canal. Along the dusty in 2008 when the stock market crashed and It was during this journey that he found Luta hallway, Vietnamese tenants hang their the subsequent depression robbed him and Livre, otherwise known as No-Gi Brazilian Jiu- clothes to dry on the balconies and air their millions of others of a job. Instead of diving Jitsu. BJJ is both a martial art based on ground old shoes outside the doors of their non-air- right back into the fray, Erik decided to go and fighting and a close contact combat sport conditioned abode. It doesn’t get any more see the world. that teaches a smaller person how to defend expat-unfriendly than this. “I’m from the US, from California, the themselves against a larger adversary by using The room is B315 and as strange as this Silicon Valley. Silicon Valley is a rat race. I leverage, and for the uninitiated, it can be may sound, this unassuming little place is the was working 12 hours a day. I was making a extremely confusing. To the untrained eye, “heaven before heaven” for a globe-trotting lot of money but my brain was never at rest. the movements and motions of BJJ - flailing,

20 “Luta Livre is a ground game, a submission game where you choke a person or lock a person’s arms to make them give up rather than knocking them out"

grabbing, sweeping, a mess of hooking limbs fell in love with Vietnam. Saigon is a city I “I didn’t want it to become an expat gym. I and bodies too close to be comfortable - can be especially love and I’ve been to a lot of cities really want it to become something for Saigon. hard to decipher. However, to the more patient around the world. This city is very different To be honest, I’d rather the Saigonese people observer, there is an underlying pattern, a and it’s very much my style to live in. I took be taught this art than an expat, because expats language and logic of the body that hints at the to it. Ever since moving here I like it more. It have other resources. There are a few other famous combat efficiency BJJ is known for. grows on me. The more I learn the language, expat gyms that teach similar combat styles “The interesting thing is that this sport the more I understand the culture,” explaining like Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu. Only the expats can is a little bit different because you don’t why he chose Vietnam. afford it for the most part. This is affordable to have to be into sport to fall in love with this His starting point was The Gym on the 5th a Vietnamese person.” one,” Erik explains. “It’s not the same. You floor of Parkson Flemington. Saigon Luta Livre currently has 20 active don’t have to be quick. You don’t have to be “I went to many, many gyms. I liked this members coming from all walks of life: strong. It’s like playing chess, like moving one because of how it was set up. But I was students, workers, teachers, businessmen, pieces on the chessboard.” not denied by a single gym to start this sport Vietnamese and expats alike, and they are “Luta Livre is a ground game, a submission in theirs. That would not happen in America. all bound by their love for Luta Livre as well game where you choke a person or lock a In America, you would have to sit in a as their shared goal to spread it to all of person’s arms to make them give up rather boardroom with five people and sell the idea. Vietnam not just as a sport or a martial art than knocking them out… like punching. There was no sale here. They just said yeah, but as a way of life. There’s a difference. It is violent when you come in and do it.” BJJ is an art form, a philosophy and a way punch or kick somebody. But this is not a It was at The Gym that he found his first of life in itself, originating from Japanese violent sport. But it’s very effective because few students. Eventually, he moved to the Kodokan Judo and evolving on Brazilian soil you’re controlling the opponent with weight current location for better control of the and culture. Erik’s move from The Gym to his and leverage until they give up.” environment as well as the direction of the own studio, away from the commercial and In 2008, Erik began training under the BJJ dojo (a Japanese term for “place of the way”). business aspect of BJJ, is one that lets him stay legend Leopoldo Serao. In 2010, he won his His intention was never about making lots faithful to BJJ as an art form, a philosophy and first gold medal in the Grappler's Quest. In of money but rather, to spread Luta Livre a way of life and allows him to share it exactly 2011, he boarded a plane on a quest to bring into Vietnam. His dojo is suitably styled to how he sees it to others. Luta Livre to Vietnam. his intended target, simple with no frills and For more info, visit www.facebook.com/ “When I came here in 2008, I completely carried on a strictly Vietnamese cost schedule. VietNamLutaLivre

21 ART

A Thousand Paper Cranes Hanoi artist Nguyen Hung Cuong puts a new twist on a millenia-old art Text by JAMES PHAM

Ancient Japanese legend has it that anyone with the devotion and patience needed to fold 1,000 paper cranes will please the gods thereby earning one wish. If that's true, Nguyen Hung Cuong has a few wishes coming his way for his unique 21st century take on the 2,000-year-old art of traditional origami. A post-graduate student studying Electronics and Telecommunications at the Hanoi University of Science and Technology, Cuong's labor-intensive creations gained international attention recently, being featured on several art blogs and on Huffington Post, where one commenter noted that “it's not just the great artistry but the fact that he has to visualize so many steps and dimensions ahead. It makes my head spin." Now 24, Cuong has been folding paper

22 since he was six as part of his school's arts stand out. Then it's on to experimenting, and crafts lessons. "I didn't even know that using dozens of practice sheets and trying it was called origami until I was about seven something hundreds of times to get each or eight when my parents bought me a book individual technique right. Before I started, about it. My [older] sister did it with me I thought the most challenging part would when she was younger, but in my family, I'm be the head because it was the most detailed "I didn't even know the only one with a passion for it." and I wanted to make it look realistic and that it was called When his parents saw that he could fold wild but afterwards, it was actually getting everything in the book, they bought him the proportions of the body and tail just so origami until I was more books and took him to buy origami that was most difficult.” paper. He then started experimenting with Another one of his favorite pieces is the about seven or eight creating his own designs, eschewing the gorilla which he recently redesigned four ones taught at school as too simplistic. years after the original. “I love it not just when my parents The cabinets in his small room are now for its features but the way I’ve been able to full of his designs, everything from tiny, capture its posture and teeth-baring ferocity. bought me a book intricate horses in motion folded from a It’s not just pretty to look at but the process single Vietnamese banknote to a great white was enjoyable. I could fold and refold it about it" shark, mouth agape, perched atop a swirling many times without getting tired of it.” blue wave. Cuong uses large single sheets of Vietnamese Origami is traditionally two-dimensional, tree bark paper known as giay do, similar to highlighted by precise folds and straight Japanese washi, for his work, sometimes adding edges. Modern-day origami has incorporated a layer of glue for stability. For more structural the use of curves and crimps with some pieces, like the wave beneath the shark, he used artists adding twists like creating abstract thick watercolor paper with a layer of colored 3-D sculptures or spheres, in addition to paper. "The materials for the shark and wave modular origami, the art of using many only cost about VND60,000 but it took about 35 sheets of paper to create larger, more hours to create." complex designs. Is monetizing his work in the cards? "I'm not really interested in selling my work because More than Tenfold there's not much of a market for it,” he says. Cuong's origami is surprisingly lifelike, as “On the other hand, some people want to buy opposed to the traditional, stylistic variety my work for cheap. They don't realize how (think paper cranes). It all begins with much time goes into each creation. Sometimes an idea. "For some, origami is a means of my friends and neighbors will ask me to make relaxation. For me, the joy is in the process things for them but I don't do it often because of thinking up an idea and then figuring out I only give away really nice ones. It's also hard how to execute it. I'm engrossed by it even to mass create these. Even after figuring out though it can sometimes give me a headache. how to do something, like with the shark, it's You always have to think many steps ahead, not necessarily easier to make the second time. analyzing whether making a crease here or It's still more art than science." there is going to show on the final product. Scan to see more of Cuong’s For instance, to create the shark, I had to work. work out how to make everything from the fins to the teeth to how to make the eyes

23 EXPAT LIFE

people didn't have much to do after work, often satisfying either their consumption needs like going out for coffee with friends or going to a bar, or their intellectual needs like A Star is Born learning a language or being on Facebook. I saw a gap in the entertainment field which satisfies both these needs." So was born the A corporate consultant turned entrepreneur tempts idea for a fashionable cooking studio that is, in equal parts, taste and style. the 20-something crowd with Japanese treats "I want people to be brilliant in their life. Our motto is: 'Make your life sparkling’. Text by JAMES PHAM images by Nam quan We're not just a cooking school, we're selling style and the experience. Cooking is just one part of our product; like a culinary Disneyland, it's all about the experience," The three best friends with matching "Consulting wasn't as exciting as I thought says Yuya of the small but stylish kitchen handbags collectively hold their breath as it would be. After considering and analyzing, located in an upstairs space on a small they watch the delicate matcha (green tea) I might propose Options A, B and C, believing alleyway off of Le Thanh Ton known for its chiffon that they've been working on for A was the best choice, but sometimes the cluster of Japanese joints. the past hour slide out of its bundt pan, client would end up choosing C. Even if the perched upside down over an empty wine venture was successful in the end, it wasn't A Matter of Taste bottle where it's been cooling for the last 20 because of me because I didn't have a hand in With no background in cooking ("I don't minutes. Sighs of relief accompany the sight the execution," he says. see myself as a foodie but I like food"), Yuya of a perfectly made cake, impossibly springy So Yuya turned to entrepreneurship brought on a cooking advisor from Japan who to the touch. instead, following his parents' footsteps as designed the food and trained the teachers. We're at Star Kitchen (2nd Floor, 8/15 small business owners running a handful of "It's been challenging to teach the Japanese Le Thanh Ton, above 4P's Pizza, D1) one ventures, including a remodeling business, style to my assistants, not just cooking but of the newest cooking classes in the city a ramen shop and a BBQ restaurant. "It was the whole concept and service. I want the and the brainchild of the most unlikely of natural for me to start up my own business classes to be standardized, unlike most of bakers, 30-year-old Yuya Arashima. Armed and not work for someone," says Yuya. the classes here where each teacher teaches with a degree in social entrepreneurship, In July 2012, he started analyzing the his or her own recipe. We started from the Yuya started out as a business management Vietnamese market and came to the beginning, like how to crack an egg, even consultant for IBM (Tokyo) advising conclusion that there were many Vietnamese though some of our trainers had decades of Japanese clients looking to enter the in their late 20s, having graduated from good experience in five-star hotels. Vietnamese overseas market. But contentment did not universities with good jobs. "I saw that people consumers are savvy so I want everything to come along with success. here don't work so much like in Japan and be perfect."

24 "We're not just a cooking school, we're selling style and the experience. Cooking is just one part of our product; like a culinary Disneyland, it's all about the experience"

Back in the cooking studio, the students are cheesecake and the Star Tiramisu. "We aim decreased the amount of butter and cream working on their second cake of the morning, to combine traditional and modern styles, because the Vietnamese don't seem to like carefully folding the egg whites for maximum Japanese style with a European influence, like fatty things." aeration under the watchful eye of trainer filling our mochi creme with blueberry cream Star Kitchen officially opened this July after Tran Ngoc Hoai My, with 20 years of pastry cheese. When people think of Japan, they think many months of preparation and training, experience in upscale hotels like the Equatorial of sushi and kimonos. I want people to have a but Yuya likes the way things are going. "My and the Windsor Plaza. "The Japanese more modern take on Japan and learn about parents are from the typical old generation. are meticulous. Each step is very precise. our culture and background through cooking." They think Thailand, Vietnam and Everything takes longer, but it's better because While the treats are exotic, employing are the same. They joked that I was starting the results are more reliable," My says of the ingredients like green tea powder and cherry a cooking school in the jungle and told me to Japanese baking style as the students line the blossom leaves soaked in brine, there has be careful not to step on land mines. But I'm bottom of the pan with driedsakura (cherry been some modification for the Vietnamese really happy. Even one year ago, I couldn't blossom) flowers brought over from Kyoto. palate. "We've actually decreased the sugar have imagined I would've started a new Star Kitchen specializes in Japanese treats by almost half in some dishes, to suit the business here." like mochi cream, matcha nama choco (green Vietnamese taste. It's strange because the For more information about the classes, which tea chocolate) and kinako (ground roasted Vietnamese drink cafe sua da, which is can be conducted in English, Vietnamese and soybeans) balls. There are also Japanese crazy sweet but when it comes to desserts, Japanese, or to pre-order cakes or purchase baking takes on European classics like the Tokyo they don't like things too sweet. We've also ingredients, visit www.star-kitchen.jp

25 FAMILY

The Heavy Hand In Vietnam, teachers and parents still believe kids need to be beaten to behave Text BY MICHAEL ARNOLD images by quinn ryan mattingly

26 UNICEF’s report on Vietnam under its Global untrue to say that no matter where people are Initiative to End All Corporal Punishment of from, the arguments they use to justify things Children, released just a few months ago now, they wish they didn’t do is startlingly familiar. was surprisingly conservative. If you follow such It’s always something like “but I didn’t hit her things, you tend to expect a barrage of criticism that hard.” What disturbs me is that I’ve seen and finger-pointing – but this time, its report violence against children here, and what I saw conceded that the country has come a long way was not altogether mild. Late one night on a bus, since the days of “thuong cho roi cho vot, ghet a beleaguered mother and her two infant children, cho ngot cho bui” (If you love your children, beat a boy and a girl, were fellow passengers. When them; if you don’t, spoil them). The big question the daughter refused to sit still after being asked now is just how far there is to go before corporal several times, the hand came down. Repeatedly. punishment in Vietnam is a thing of the past. With a force that would have given dark, black Westerners come from a similar ideological bruises even to me, let alone a little girl not yet background – spare the rod, spoil the child – but five, all distorted in screams, inciting her mother, the past century has seen a growing recognition, face torn in a fury, to hit harder. in Western countries, of how the cycle of violence Forgive me, but I have no way of reporting how works its way through the generations and common that is. No one will talk about that. becomes its own legacy. The move to eradicate the beating of children has proved a very painful Zero Tolerance transition everywhere it’s been tried. Statements from international schools, while Whether the same evolution in attitudes is cautiously phrased, are usually nonetheless underway in Vietnam is a moot point. Legislatively, emphatic in declaring zero tolerance for any corporal punishment has been banished from form of corporal punishment whatsoever. I almost every arena save for the most intimate – received unequivocal assurances from both in the home – but there are still frequent media BIS and the Montessori School of Vietnam, for reports of excessive violence in schools perpetrated example, that such methods of punishment are by frustrated teachers. Extreme forms of corporal expressly forbidden. One parent assured me that punishment are the exception rather than the “certainly in international standard schools and rule; however, speaking with local caregivers does kindergartens, no teachers would be allowed suggest that ‘mild’ to raise a hand discipline such as against a child.” slapping aren’t all The same can’t that uncommon be said for local even now. schools. “There A few enquiries have been cases are all it takes to in the press, from demonstrate the across Vietnam, point. I questioned about teachers one local teacher abusing children. who openly In fact, my helper admitted to hitting pays her kids’ her students by teacher a tip to hand or with a avoid this.” rolled newspaper While she despite being well hadn’t heard aware that such of an instance punishments are of a nanny now illegal in using physical Vietnam. “I only slap the children when they’re punishment (sadly, I myself have indeed heard of really naughty and if there’s no other way to make such cases), she did advise parents to be absolutely them better,” she says. “I feel guilty and regret it clear in their instructions given to household help. sometimes, but the pressure of having to look after “Write it down clearly on paper, and translate so many children at the same time makes me lose the NEVER situations such as hitting, shouting, control.” Misdemeanors that resulted in slapping, locking in a room, etc. The cultural differences are by the way, included not eating or sleeping at huge.” the proper time. Parents, she continues, “care Be that as they may, cultural differences are only about the issue very much, but ignore it if the partly to blame for a phenomenon that knows no punishment isn’t too serious”. borders. Patient, good instruction – delivered with Without legislative restriction, the situation the knowledge that sometimes your child may yet in the home isn’t so different. One mother spoke persist in doing something that infuriates you – is in similar terms of being unable to maintain hard. What’s even harder for offending parents self-control despite feeling that what she was to understand, though, is that an act of violence doing was wrong. “You have to teach your child against a child, no matter how serious, is always in gradually, explain properly and talk gently with itself a far more contemptible breach of discipline your children,” she says. “That’s the principle. In than whatever misdemeanor on the part of the real-world practice, there are children who are child brought it on. Like all bad decisions, the too excitable and too energetic, and sometimes consequences are inevitably worse than the causes. the parent cannot control or restrain their own As one interviewee said to me, “As a mother, anger or worry, so they’ll come to use a more every time I use these severe methods with my violent method.” own child, I feel pain. There are times when I Adding: “There are several techniques you can would enact this punishment while crying myself. use to discipline your children, such as kneeling, I hope that anyone reading this piece will, from caning the palm, and spanking. It depends on the then on, restrain themselves whenever they’re severity of the child’s problem – even though we trying to teach or educate their children, or else know that we shouldn’t use these methods.” the next generation in this country will be an Without meaning to pass judgment, it’s not incredibly violent one.”

27 saigon mythbusters

THE MYTH: As all motorbike drivers are required to buy motorbike insurance, does the insurance actually protect you?

According to Regulation No. stop you for to check. They will ask to up to your negotiation skills to work out 126/2008/TT-BTC from the Ministry of present proof of purchase of the ‘motorbike an agreement. Finance, all motorbike drivers are required insurance.’ If you fail to do so or present Last year, according to a report by the to purchase civil liability insurance for an expired one, then you will be fined Vietnam Insurance Association, 39 percent their motorbikes. The mandatory civil VND100,000. Remember to renew it every of indemnified cases were successful - liability insurance is priced at VND66,000 year to avoid being fined because the fine amounting to about only one-third of all (inclusive of VAT) and is valid for one costs more than the insurance itself. claims that were filed. The report also year. This is, however, not to safeguard Apparently in order to claim the civil mentions that for the first time in recent the motorbike owners themselves but liability insurance, you - as the insured years, the 2012 revenue for civil liability rather to indemnify the third party in party - have to present the police report insurance dropped dramatically and this case of accidents. It works like this: and any medical reports of the other shows the “awareness” of the people about suppose you crash into someone, break party. But insurance companies will only what this type of insurance really does for their leg and/or damage their vehicle. The indemnify to a certain pre-determined fee them – only as a shield from traffic fines. insurance company will then, on your for each case. Each insurer has a standard In essence, the civil liability insurance behalf, pay the other party’s medical compensation percentage for every case doesn’t protect you at all. You need to expense of up to VND50 million and the and with this practice you as the insured purchase an optional vehicle and passenger vehicle damage of up to VND40 million. party need to fork out from your own insurance which costs you a lot more In short, the civil liability insurance pocket to pay the balance of the formal than VND66,000. This optional insurance makes sure that other motorbike drivers/ fee (billed medical fee, repair fee, etc.) for is priced at different levels depending on pedestrians are protected from your the other party. As with most accidents in the chosen level of indemnity. You can potential inability of paying compensation Vietnam, the injured parties almost always purchase this at any insurance company should accidents take place. want to be compensated more than the and my advice is to choose the larger, more The civil liability motorbike insurance formal fee, sometimes to an unreasonable well-known insurers so that they have is widely referred to as “motorbike extent, claiming ‘trauma.’ For this, no type sufficient financial ability to cover you. insurance” and this is what traffic cops of insurance can protect you and it is now – Clara Phuoc Nguyen

28 JOIN THE CLUB Hogging the Streets For those who are dedicated to riding Harleys Text by CHRISTINE VAN AND Clara Phuoc Nguyen IMages by Nam Quan

The first American-made motorcycle, Ultra Classic motorcycle was ridden by and Muong La District to help poor children. the iconic Harley-Davidson, was made Russian President Vladimir Putin when he We also offer exchanges with HOG in , popular in Saigon during the American War was in the Ukraine. I had it pimped in the US Thailand and Cambodia," says Dzung. in the 1960s. Recently, the motorcycle has to enhance the characteristics for my ride." In Vietnam there’s still a lingering become a firm favorite on the city’s streets According to Dzung, riders don’t attend preconception that these easy riders are too. The Saigon HOG (Harley Owners Group) the weekly meetings to show off speed but gangsters or hoodlums but they’d be was formed in 2008 when Vietnam officially rather to boast about style. Members discuss surprised to learn that Saigon HOG members allowed large capacity motorcycles to be everything from colors and designs to the are actually successful CEOs, businessmen imported into the country. At the time the special roar the engines make. They say it’s and academics. They would have to be only person to own an Ultra Classic was a chance for them to share experiences in considering the cheapest price of a Harley is Phuong, now Vice President of Saigon HOG. motorcycle maintenance and accessories. around USD25,000. Mesmerized by the classic rumblings of his Initially drawn to the seductive rumblings Harley engine which he likened to “tribal Come Along for the Ride of a Harley, Phuong now eats, breathes and drums,” Phuong gathered together equally Joining Saigon HOG isn’t difficult; you just sleeps in HD because of the welcoming passionate Harley aficionados to form the club need to own a Harley and have an A2 class worldwide vibe that comes from being part that currently counts 73 members, of which license. But to be a fully-fledged card- of the HOG. Phuong has the assurance that only one is female. On any given Sunday, 30 carrying member requires going beyond no matter where he finds himself, he’ll be bikes show up for the HOG’s gathering and just showing off these mechanical beauties. welcomed as part of the HOG family. “We all amongst them is a 1200 Sportster, a V-rod, Members give back to the community by have HOG blood,” he says. a Dyna, a Rocker, a Buell, and a bunch of doing volunteer work in the education sector. Whether you come from the Americas, Electra Glides, the newest being a '10 CVO When asked why education was specifically or Asia, and regardless of your job, Ultra Classic Electra Glide. This particular chosen as the group’s focus for social work, be it company director, journalist or artist, bike cost about USD100,000 in Vietnam as Phuong responded enthusiastically: “All the just owning a Harley makes you a part of the import duty alone is roughly 175 percent club members are family people who are the HOG family. Pride and the connection for "luxury" motorcycles, plus registration, intensely devoted to contributing towards between Harley Owner Group members shipping, and miscellaneous charges. Vietnam’s young generation.” has made it one of the most close-knit and “Harley-Davidson motorcycles may be They’ve partnered with many exciting of all luxury motorcycle clubs. But suitable for a wide range of ages, however organizations, associations and government make no mistake. HOG isn’t just a club, it’s they are not suitable for everyone,” says Tran agencies to build classrooms and provide a lifestyle. Vinh, who owns a Heritage Softail 2004, scholarships for underprivileged students Saigon HOG has weekly meetings from 1500cc. “The owner’s character is revealed by in remote areas. This year, the club has 9am-12pm every Sunday morning at Café the model they drive." organized multiple events in an effort to L’Anmien (76 Le Lai, D1). On alternating Dzung is a member of two HOG clubs raise awareness on safety and responsible weeks, the club organizes sessions on driving (Hanoi and HCMC) and has to travel back driving amongst grade school and techniques, keeping up with the latest Harley and forth to attend the gatherings but it university students in the city. news and charitable and social events. allows him to ride his big beast along the "We organize excursions through Vietnam For more info on Saigon Hog, check out its highway and share his passion with other every year. We also organize some charitable Facebook page (www.facebook/saigon.hog) motorcycle buffs. "I bought this motorcycle activities during the trips. For example, we or find it online at www.saigonhog.vn/vn in the US several years ago. This three-wheel went to the mountainous province of Son La (both in Vietnamese).

29 30 RedUCE Nip Lift Tuck PLUMP ENLARGE Tan

Vietnam has one of Asia's fastest-growing economies and has set its sights on becoming a developed nation by 2020. Tourism has increased at a steadily impressive rate over the last 10 years. In 2010, Vietnam welcomed nearly four million international tourists. Most visitors come from , with around 10 percent coming from the US, Japan and . Building on this success, the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism is looking to develop and diversify the tourism industry. Will medical tourism be a part of this expansion? BY NA M Q U AN image Sun, Saigon… and The state of medical tourism in Vietnam

When Keo Kak, 58, crossed the border from Cambodia into Vietnam expensive." on his way to Cho Ray Hospital, he became a medical tourist. Defined On the advice of a patient with a similar ailment who told of his in its broadest terms by the Medical Tourism Association, medical improved condition after seeing doctors in Vietnam, Kak decided to travelers are "people who live in one country [but] travel to another obtain cross-border care. Kounila remembers accompanying her father country to receive medical, dental and surgical care while at the to Vietnam. "My first impression of Vietnamese doctors was very good. same time receiving equal to or greater care than they would have After a brief registration, he was put into a wheelchair and went right in their own country, and are traveling for medical care because of in to see the doctor. The hospital was well-equipped and the doctor affordability, better access to care or a higher level of quality of care." spoke some English." However, this niche market within the travel sector has proven Kak belongs to the estimated 250 Cambodians who cross over notoriously difficult to study and quantify, in part because it requires into Vietnam daily seeking medical treatment at 's sensitive information to be shared between countries and industries, a hospitals, often at Cho Ray, FV and the Medical University Hospital hard ask when anonymity is considered an attractive feature of medical (commonly known to Cambodians as "215"). Some of these hospitals tourism for many. Keith Pollard, Managing Editor of the International have Khmer-speaking staff on hand to service these medical tourists. Medical Travel Journal explains: "There is no standardized approach to Other patients employ freelance interpreters, as Kak does, at USD10 collecting data on medical tourism, and most of the numbers that you per visit. According to the International Medical Travel Journal, the see on the Internet are wild guesses or invented by those who want to number of Cambodian patients treated at Cho Ray Hospital increased hype the market. Different countries in Southeast Asia attract different by over 90 percent between 2008 and 2011, prompting the hospital to patients from different countries for different reasons." start construction in 2010 of a Phnom Penh branch, with the first 200 Add to that the blurred nature of what exactly makes a medical of a proposed 500 beds set to open this month. traveler. Some industries take a more narrow view and exclude While it may be a stretch to describe Kak as a conventional "tourist," outpatients, dental patients, patients returning to their (or their people like Kak fit the traditional model of international medical parents’ or grandparents’) country of origin for treatment, people who travel, journeying to more developed countries in search of health decided to mix travel for medical care with travel for other purposes, care, meanwhile consuming services associated with travel, such as and patients traveling across borders to nearby countries (such as transport, lodging, and hospitality. On one trip, he even brought his between Cambodia and Vietnam). Therefore, the estimated number of family with him and after a doctor's visit in the morning, took the medical tourists worldwide ranges wildly from 60,000 to 50 million, evening bus to Dalat for five days. spending upwards of USD60 billion annually. For years, Vietnam has been a medical treatment destination for A Niche Market Cambodians where the healthcare system is less developed. Local However, a growing number of medical providers in Vietnam are Khmers wryly say that the hospital is a place where people go to die, seeking to capitalize on the more lucrative medical tourism niche y not to live. spearheaded by regional powerhouses like Thailand and India, Kak had been dealing with an enlarged heart condition for years, where patients are from highly developed countries traveling to less tti n g l

bouncing between doctors without seeing much improvement. developed areas of the world to receive quality medical services at a an m a Kounila, his daughter, talks of their experience: "There are some good fraction of the cost compared to their own country. hospitals with good doctors in Phnom Penh, but they spend most of George Adams, CEO of Medical Tourism Vietnam, a Hanoi-based their time at their private clinics, so regular patients don't get good medical tourism company, describes the current state of medical care. We tried going to a heart center, but the staff were unethical tourism in Vietnam as "in supreme infancy”. “At the moment, it is

and we just got fed up. The newer, international hospitals are just too simply convergence, not cost," he says, as to why someone would BY q ui nn ry image

32 Surgery? Text by James Pham

33 34 come to Vietnam as a medical tourist. "The client has already booked a than Europe. After adding up the costs of buying a plane ticket, holiday [here]." visiting family and going sightseeing, there's still some money left Dr. Rafi Kot, CEO of Family Medical Practice, comments bluntly over compared to what they'd have to spend getting treatment in their on the current medical offerings: "What we have here isn't medical home country. Even compared to Singapore and Thailand, Vietnam is tourism the way you and I understand it. Vietnam isn't even on the four to six times cheaper." map yet. Cambodians come to Vietnam because it's slightly cheaper Medical tourist Huynh Phan brought her husband to Vietnam than Bangkok. [As a Westerner,] if I saw it advertised in my hotel, I to have a partial denture made. "It was only USD300. In the US, it might consider it. But I wouldn't fly in for it." would've been at least five times that much. We got a recommendation Mr. Tuan-Anh Le, Director of Marketing for the Vietnam National from friends and the quality seems to be good. It was a good Administration of Tourism agrees. "Medical tourism in Vietnam hasn't compromise, to be able to visit family while getting dental work done.” been developed. The number of domestic tourists on medical tours is On the issue of quality, David says of his recommended dental limited, and the number of foreigners coming to Vietnam as health clinics: "The implants done [at our clinics] are manufactured in other travelers is only a few hundred a year. So far, these products and places like , and Israel and are mainly fitted services are part of a larger packaged tour and haven't gotten to the here using Vietnamese labor." However, Tri Phan of Phann Dental point where they've become the primary reason for someone to come Laboratory in Houston, US advises caution. "I've had clients get dental to Vietnam." work done in Vietnam and when something breaks, they have to see Experts concur that Vietnam is still years away from being known a dentist here because it's too expensive to keep flying back. Some of as a typical medical tourism destination - glitzy, high-tech machinery the work I've seen isn't as good as in the US; I'd rate it four or five out operated by foreign-trained doctors in a setting which looks more like of 10. Here, to open a lab, you have to pass exams and be certified. a five-star resort. In Vietnam, dental skills are often passed from father to son. In the However fragile, though, some pieces of the puzzle are in place. US, you have to use materials approved by the FDA [Food and Drug "Vietnam has a lot of pluses," says Tuan-Anh. "Traditional Vietnamese Administration]. In Vietnam, you can use any material. I've seen some medicine contains the essence of of the metal used to cast crowns and Oriental Medicine. A case in point they contain lead which can be very is acupuncture which has been "Medical tourism in Vietnam dangerous. The standards are nowhere recognized worldwide as being as strict as in the US." effective in treating many ailments. Vietnam is also endowed with many hasn't been developed. The Plastic or Non? natural resources suitable for the Another area making small inroads in development of centers for relaxation, number of domestic tourists Vietnam is cosmetic surgery. Dr. Kot rehabilitation and treatment. There are recalls an Australian patient who came already tours like this, like in Quang on medical tours is limited, to his clinic with all her girlfriends, Ninh where travelers can combine a having traveled to Vietnam to get visit to the Yen Tu Temple with an tailored dresses for an upcoming herbal medical treatment, or in Khanh and the number of foreigners wedding. The bride-to-be said that it Hoa, where tourists can relax and have was 10 times cheaper than going to a an Ayurvedic treatment at the mineral coming to Vietnam as health tailor in Australia, even with flights hot springs. There are also eco and and hotel included. The same can be wellness combination tours like the said for plastic surgery. Oriental Medicine treatments in Dong travelers is only a few "There are a few things done in Thap Muoi and herbal bath treatments Vietnam which attract tourists. One by ethnic minorities in Sapa." hundred a year. So far, these of them is plastic surgery. It's a big For now, medical tourism in thing in Asia. The mother and father Vietnam seems to be focused on products and services are of plastic surgery is South Korea. general wellness (also known as health If you're 14 and don't get a lip job, tourism) like the spa industry, along that means Mom and Dad don't love with dental care and minor surgeries, part of a larger packaged you. In the US, it's traditionally very largely procedures which are not expensive; it's a luxury." But despite heavily invasive and do not require tour and haven't gotten to the the slowdown of the US economy, "the long recovery time or specialized post- demand for cosmetic procedures has procedure care, allowing travelers to not decreased. In the UK, estimates continue on with their non-health point where they've become the project that the number of cosmetic related trip. procedures nearly doubled from 2005 primary reason for someone to 2007," says a report commissioned Organically Grown by the Deloitte Center for Health Even so, the industry looks to be Solution. growing organically rather than to come to Vietnam." Hans van der Broek, a Hoi An-based systematically, being supported by tour operator looking to break into national strategies as the Thai, Indian, Singaporean and Malaysian the medical tourism business notes that "for cosmetic surgery, small governments have in place. Australian David Kelly, owner of Dental facial corrections are popular [in Vietnam] and especially non-surgical Assistant Vietnam, a dental referral service, says that his business treatments like reducing wrinkles, skin whitening and laser treatments. started with friends asking him to find them good dentists. "Most But not a lot of Western visitors will take the risk for plastic surgery." Australians come to Asia because of the proximity and because dental Dr. Kot adds food for thought: "Vietnam may be cheaper, but don't costs in Australia have skyrocketed. Medical is covered by government forget that plastic surgery is different when it comes to Asians and insurance, but dental isn't. So when they have to pay for something, Caucasians. They have different skin, different aesthetics." they realize how expensive it is." In order to become more of a regional player in the medical tourism David's clients say that dental costs in Vietnam are about a quarter niche, Vietnam must overcome issues that similarly plague the global of the price of Australia. "Back home, a filling costs a few hundred industry and then some. The Medical Tourism Climate Survey 2013, dollars. Here, for the same price, you can get a cap on top of the filling. funded by the International Medical Travel Journal, polled more than Vietnamese dentists can do everything from basic fillings and cleaning, 400 industry people in 77 countries and found that the most important right up to implants, veneers, bridges and crowns. One of our clients factor for a medical tourist in choosing a health care facility in a needed a lot of implants. He was quoted AUD20,000 in Australia and particular country are the expertise and qualifications of the doctor/ ended up getting them done here for AUD5,000. People are starting dentist. However, without going through a medical broker, potential to discover that they can get as good a job done in Vietnam as in medical tourists are left with a dilemma when it comes to Vietnamese Thailand, a country which has really taken the lead in dental tourism credentials. Out of a reported 100 government-owned hospitals and over the past 10 to 15 years." medical centers in Ho Chi Minh City, not counting the dozens of Dr. Duy An Vo, Director of the Nu Cuoi Duyen Dental Clinic, where privately-owned clinics, only one center, the Cao Thang Eye Hospital, 70 percent of his foreign patients are Viet Kieu, agreed that economics is accredited by the Joint Commission International, one of the health

BY na m q u an image was the driving factor for dental tourism. "Vietnam is much cheaper care industry’s most prominent accreditation institutions. In contrast,

35 22 organizations are accredited in Singapore and 41 in Bangkok alone. year. But the Vietnamese health care system isn't far enough along to "As long as Vietnamese doctors who graduate in Vietnam cannot address what to do in the case of malpractice. Malpractice insurance work overseas because no OECD (Organisation for Economic Co- isn’t required. Usually, the patient will negotiate a settlement directly operation and Development) or Western country recognizes their with the clinic. But the maximum payout is USD10,000 to USD20,000, training, there will be no medical tourism in Vietnam. Vietnam has no not in the millions like in the West. And whether the clinic can afford 'brain re-drain' happening (the trend of local doctors studying abroad to pay is another matter." and then coming back to practice in their home country). Nobody Keith cautions, "[Medical travelers] must factor in the risk. Lower needs doctors from Vietnam because they don't qualify. As long as price means higher risk. If something goes wrong, then they will have Vietnam is losing a billion dollars from Vietnamese going overseas to pursue the doctor/clinic through the legal process in the destination to seek treatment, what are we talking about?" asks Dr. Kot. "New country. And there is usually little chance of this happening." hospitals are called international, but there's nothing international Specifically to Vietnam, Dr. Kot adds, "Compensation here is usually about them. It's the same guys working at overcrowded public limited to just millions of dong, so it's not worth it. If you want good hospitals, just moving over to private industry. Just having a white coat doctors, you've got to pay them. Nobody likes to pay for health care. and a cravat [in a building] with the word 'international' doesn't justify Vietnam ranks at number 133 out of 200 countries in expenditure on adding a zero to the bill." health. If you need big surgery and it's elective, go home. Be with your Dr. Vo, though, is more optimistic. "Foreign doctors I've met at family," he advises. conferences say that the skill level of Vietnamese doctors is delicate, With only a handful of brokers working to bring medical tourists even masterful compared to foreign doctors. Vietnam has access to Vietnam, for now at least, individuals are largely making their own to the most up-to-date techniques. When a new technique comes decisions regarding their health needs, the best form of treatment and out, companies that specialize in equipment and products organize the most qualified provider. The Medical Tourism Climate Survey 2013 seminars and bring in foreign specialists because they want to get found that most providers are funneling the bulk of their marketing those products into the market ASAP." dollars into website content. However, the OECD review warns that because "internet sites are relatively cheap to set up and run" and are The Risk Factor often "not subject to clear quality controls or advertising standards," Another area of concern is the issue of liability. A 2011 medical tourism the information presented may be selective, conveniently ignoring review commissioned by the OECD poses the question, "In the event issues such as post-operative care and support. of an adverse outcome arising from failings in clinical and professional Referral services like Dental Assistant Vietnam aim to be simply practice, how do patients fare in seeking redress given there is no that - a source of information which the prospective patient must international regulation of medical tourism?" process themselves. Owner David Kelly says that when he was looking "Most of the time, there is no recourse in case of trouble. Putting at dentists, "information was lacking. There wasn't a website that pressure on people to refund in case of problems is often the only way we were happy with that had all the information in one place. Some to get some of the money back. But by then, the damage is already people don't trust coming to a developing country, so we act as the done," says Hans. middleman. We give them information about qualifications, cleanliness,

Dr. Vo agrees: "Registered medical clinics are inspected twice a photos of the dental office, what they specialize in and feedback from BY na m q u an image

36 Healthcare Destinations

Here is a list of notable health care destinations in Southeast Asia. Some of these countries are leading the world in "It's true that the quality of medical tourism, while others are just entering the market. Regardless, the region as a whole stands to build a strong medical services in Vietnam and sustainable industry around healthcare has yet to meet the high Thailand The Land of Smiles has been one of the most successful countries in the world at developing and promoting medical requirements of international tourism. The combination of world class medical facilities and beautiful vacation potential makes Thailand a premier destination for overseas medical care. Some of their most visitors. Facilities are small popular procedures include elective cosmetic procedures, weight management surgeries and orthopedic surgeries. One of the most widely reported benefits of medical care and often overcrowded and in Thailand is the phenomenal level of care. Many patients report fantastic experiences with highly professional and friendly staff. On top of that, Thailand boasts 70 to 80 the staff do not speak a percent cost savings from the US or the UK. The savings are more than enough to cover a few extra weeks recovering foreign language. There's on Thailand’s beautiful beaches with a tropical drink in hand. also a lack of cooperation Singapore The Lion City has carved out a respectable medical tourism industry, attracting close to 500,000 foreign patients between hospitals and travel annually. Currently, the World Health Organization ranks Singapore as having the best medical infrastructure in Asia and the sixth best in the world. In true Singaporean companies to develop products fashion the government has gotten on board and is making a sweeping, coordinated effort to grow and promote the industry. Singapore is attracting primarily Asian tourists, and services to attract but as the country grows and develops it certainly has the potential to be a worldwide medical hub. medical tourists." While Malaysia may not be at the same scale as powerhouses Thailand and Singapore, the country still attracts nearly 250,000 foreigners a year seeking medical care. It may just be a secret jewel for people who know about it. While the country still doesn’t possess the technological development for advanced procedures, Malaysia has a highly specialized burn center as well as great preventative care services. A comprehensive health screening by highly-trained and skilled doctors can be a previous clients. We're a little bit like the Agoda of dental treatment. seventh of the cost in the US. With these kind of savings Malaysia won’t be a secret for long. We present a lot of similar clinics and provide information. Clients can compare and then make the decisions themselves." India What the future holds for medical tourism in general, a maturing India offers top medical care in a number of cities across cottage industry which has been projected to grow in excess of 35 the nation, including Delhi, Bangalore, Mumbai and percent annually, and for medical tourism specifically in Vietnam, is Chennai. Overall the country is one of the fastest growing uncertain. Keith says, "Whether Vietnam is an attractive destination medical tourism destinations in the world, reporting 30 will depend on which target markets it wishes to explore. There will percent patient growth annually. India attracts most of its foreign patients from the US, and Europe be very different reasons for patients from Australia seeking dental looking for less expensive cardiovascular and orthopedic treatment to those from Myanmar seeking heart surgery. Obstacles for procedures. A heart valve replacement, normally quoted Vietnam include the level of competition from other destinations within at around USD150,000 in the States, can be done in India the region, for example Malaysia, Singapore and Korea. The lack of a for USD9,500. With pricing that attractive India’s medical clear strategy is also a drawback. This takes time to develop. [There also tourism is growing so quickly the government has started investing money to improve infrastructure and help support needs to be] financial backing from the government or from individual the industry. hospitals and clinics to actually put Vietnam on the map." Tuan-Anh of the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism, South Korea while pragmatic, remains optimistic. "It's true that the quality of Although not technically Southeast Asia, South Korea medical services in Vietnam has yet to meet the high requirements stills needs to be mentioned. Considered one of the most of international visitors. Facilities are small and often overcrowded technologically advanced countries in the world, South and the staff do not speak a foreign language. There's also a lack Korea has built medical facilities and infrastructure that can compete head to head with any other developed nation. of cooperation between hospitals and travel companies to develop Surprisingly they have also managed to keep costs lower products and services to attract medical tourists." However, he shared than most comparable countries. South Korea specializes some recommendations from the Strategy and Master Plan for in highly technical surgeries, such as spinal and brain, as Tourism Development 2020, with a view to 2030, such as developing well as a wide range of cosmetic procedures, for which they the traditional medicine and herbal therapies sector indigenous to have built a globally recognized reputation. This country may not be the least expensive option but they compete to Vietnam; encouraging the construction of hospitals aimed at medical top the quality of more expensive countries. tourists, complete with modern hotel facilities and international- standard treatment rooms and staff; and coordinating with the So if you have been putting off a long needed vacation Ministry of Public Security to devise preferential extended visa policies or perhaps prolonging an inevitable medical need, for international visitors who are coming for health tourism. procrastinate no longer. Southeast Asia has become a veritable paradise of vacation potential and affordable Hans of Green Apple Hoi An predicts, though, that "as long as there medical care. After all, recovering from a hospital visit with a are no strict health regulations and some kind of backup in case of little vacation time is not a bad way to live. problems, [medical tourism] will not really take off. It will remain an add-on to tour packages." – Tyler Norwood Under the NeedleText by Lottie Delamain

An expat recalls his experience with Botox injections in HCMC

James, 33, splits his time between New York, London and Saigon. So good was James’ experience that eight months later he returned Having had Botox a couple of times in New York and been thrilled with the for round two. The same doctor, the same professionalism, however results – “I couldn’t stop looking in the mirror” – he found the expenditure not such good results. Instead of a natural-looking healthy glow, he left a drain on the wallet. And so while he was over here for business, the with a “frozen plasticy-shine.” His forehead had an unnatural sheen and comparatively tiny price tag beckoned him to the doctor’s surgery. he struggled to show expression. Most worryingly, when he raised his “It is always about recommendations. I would never go anywhere a eyebrows, only one moved. Horrified, he returned to the clinic. friend hadn’t recommended. There is always a risk involved with medicine, Although the doctor was understanding, the clinic was reluctant to wherever you are in the world, so you have to trust your instincts,” he accept any wrongdoing. It was described as “normal”, something that says. It’s important you know exactly what you want and feel comfortable “sometimes happens.” The solution? More Botox. So James had a corrective questioning your doctor and the results. “Just because he does Cameron dose of Botox (free of charge), to make both eyebrows equally immobile. Diaz, it doesn’t mean your eyebrows are straight.” And “it took about a month for things to begin to return to normal,” With this is mind, he took a friend’s advice and visited a clinic on explains James. Dong Khoi. First impressions were good – it was clean and professional. “They asked all the right questions.” And he had the reassuringly familiar The Price of Youthfulness mountain of paperwork to fill out prior to the consultation. The Vietnamese To those who are yet to dip their toes into the world of cosmetic surgery, doctor who spoke perfect English, talked through the procedure and this might be enough to put you off. However, James is more philosophical discussed recommended units of Botox. Twenty minutes later, true to his about his experience. “The thing is, this can happen anywhere. In the US it friend’s experience, he left the clinic with his forehead wrinkle-free, feeling happens all the time and it would have been dealt with in exactly the same refreshed and looking five years younger. way. It is not like it has caused life-long damage.” James is all too aware, that with all surgery, cosmetic or otherwise, there is a chance it may go wrong. And in Vietnam, where the industry is comparatively young and comparatively unregulated, he felt it would be almost impossible to bring them to justice, let alone get any compensation or have them cease operation to prevent further damage to other people. “You’re definitely more vulnerable as a foreigner – going up against a Vietnamese doctor, the whole institution, it would be overwhelming. [Also because] of what is seen as acceptable. For example, in Saigon, like in LA, it’s totally normal to look like you have had work – it doesn’t matter if you have big scars behind your ears, or overly taut skin stretched across your face. The priority is wrinkle-free, whatever the cost. And everyone’s at it, from nose jobs, to double eyelid surgery, and from a very young age.” Adding: “If I had gone in and said I want my eyes done, at my age, they would have said, ‘Sure, no problem.’ In the West, that would have alarm bells ringing.” In the West, he wouldn't be allowed to have his eyes done at 33-years-old because there's nothing wrong with them, nothing to ‘do’. But here, he thinks they would have done it anyway and he would have looked ridiculous. However, the fact remains, having work done here is a fraction of the price. The Botox that James had for USD150 would have cost him USD1000 in New York. And in his experience, if you do a bit of research and follow your instincts, you’re no worse off here than anywhere else in the world. And if the proof is in a repeat customer, would James go back for more? Without hesitating, “Yeah, probably!”

"If I had gone in and said I want my eyes done, at my age, they would have said, ‘Sure, no problem.’ In the West, that would have alarm bells ringing"

38 Wine & Dine IMAGE BY quinn ryan mattingly

Hatvala

39 RESTAURANT REVIEW

40 as Vietnam, that is no small achievement. With three of us enjoying the dining experience, we were able to choose three contrasting main courses, each recommended by different staff. The Forest Our waiter was very eager for us to try the rack of lamb with butter spinach and blackberry sauce (VND370,000) “How many restaurants have you been to where lamb is served with blackberry sauce?” he challenged. None, of for the Trees course, so we accepted the dare. Our second choice was pan fried veal with mixed seafood in white wine sauce Some of District 1’s best restaurants are not in the (VND195,000) and our third, duck breast with orange and prune sauce (VND245,000). Duck main thoroughfares you might expect to find them served roasted or baked European style is a dish often poorly presented in Asia - too raw, it can Text by robert stockdill images by quinn ryan mattingly be tough or stringy. White Forest’s version was tender and pink - some may find it a little too well done, but we appreciated the texture and flavor, and the piquancy of the orange sauce White Forest (14bs Nguyen Dinh Chieu, snow fish, meats and an avocado salad. mixed with the sweetness of the prunes. D1) is big, bold and beautiful. A blend of The lamb was pink, succulent and tender and Scandinavian and European design and The Meal served on a potato gratin foundation angled handmade Vietnamese furniture makes this an White Forest’s menu is of a generic European like a whole fish at first glance. The berry sauce urban oasis, an ideal place to chill for a wine, style - neither Italian, French, Spanish nor proved a delicious accompaniment so we were tapas or a full Continental-influenced meal. Mediterranean - it draws on flavors from across pleased we heeded our waiter’s advice. Owner Thu Hieu Phung wanted to open the continent. The veal was pink and tender, probably a restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City with a For starters we tried the beef carpaccio redder and more like beef than many European offer targeting Vietnamese and with foie gras, truffle paste, rocket salad and Westerners would expect. It was served foreigners alike. She chose a larger than average parmesan cheese (VND175,000) and the delicately balanced on a mound of creamy site with a wide street frontage and engaged orange salad with mixed leaves, walnuts, potato, itself sitting on a ‘raft’ of three fresh -based Vietnamese interior designer cherry tomatoes, feta cheese, red onions and asparagus spears and augmented with a prawn, Anh Nguyen to create her ‘forest.’ The beauty orange dressing (VND155,000). The beef was cockle and mussel. is in the detail with features like hand carved astonishingly thin, and thus very soft, almost Perhaps the only disappointment about Jaguar heads which front the arms of each of melting in the mouth. Drizzled with olive oil White Forest is its dessert menu which is the sumptuous white framed dining chairs with and served with large slices of parmesan, it surprisingly limited given the innovative maple leaf print cushions. A feature wall has teased the palate but did not leave us feeling nature of earlier courses. The only options are rounds of local timber arranged in a mosaic and too full, rather heightening the anticipation chocolate mousse cake, cheesecake, panacotta, bracketed by slim pale bricks. of our mains, which is the whole point of a a semi fredo with pistachio and prune or a The menu is fixed to a slab of timber, rustic starter, after all. walnut brownie. brown sheets of paper with a cowhide cover, all The salad was amongst the best we have To be honest, most diners will be well strung together with a wooden twig and jute tried in Ho Chi Minh City, crisp leaves of purple satisfied before dessert anyway. cord. Very forest-like. It ranges from traditional and green, juicy chunks of orange, soft moist White Forest may be new, a little over a breakfasts, artfully designed sandwiches for the feta cheese and juicy baby tomatoes. In a way month old, but it feels established and confident. first half of the day, then a comprehensive range the salad heralded the overwhelming lasting The design is extraordinary and refreshing of imaginative salads, pastas, meats and fish for impression of White Forest: Fresh. Every item without being the least bit ostentatious, the dinner time. There is also a tapas menu on a we have tasted on the menu looked and tasted food is fresh, tasty and modestly priced and the blackboard which is changed frequently. These as if it had just been harvested or caught. In a service friendly and attentive. This reviewer has options can include oysters, foie gras, cheeses, country with supply chain challenges as harsh already been back!

41 RESTAURANT REVIEW Family Dining A one stop eatery specializing in tea, coffee and hearty food text by robert stockdill ImageS by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

By day, Hatvala on 44 Nguyen Hue, more than VND255,000 (for the beef). There they proved moorish and decidedly filling. D1 is gaining a deserved reputation as a are also rice, noodle and claypot dishes and a There were six rolls - two each of pork, destination for quality espresso coffee and selection of simple desserts. shrimp and vegetable - while light and tasty, one of the broadest ranges of hot teas in some diners may prefer them to have just a town. But Hatvala also has a full bistro- The Meal little less oil on the plate. style restaurant offer, merging elements of On the ground floor is a cafe with a state of For mains we again opted for something Vietnamese and Western cuisine into an the art coffee machine and a tea room for recommended and something unique: rolled unusual and eclectic menu to suit all tastes. sampling sessions or groups. Upstairs is an beef with peanuts and herbs (VND164,000), From breakfast and lunch through dinner, intimate, air conditioned restaurant area and grilled duck (VND189,000). The rolled it’s a friendly haven for tourists, expats where we were fortunate to snap up the seat beef definitely excited the tastebuds; it was and locals alike with modest price points, beside the large window and indulge in the tender and fragrant, the filling comprising attentive service and a relaxing environment never-ending entertainment of watching cars basil, peanuts, honey and seasoning - a suited to business meetings or catching up and motorcycles narrowly avoid each other unique combination by any measure. with friends. at the ‘clock roundabout.’ The beef had clearly been marinated in Owner Geoff Hopkins came to Ho Chi While we carefully selected our entrees a Vietnamese sauce and the rolls had a Minh City to work in IT but has since opted and mains, a charming waitress brought barbecued look and scent, but were evenly for a ‘seachange,’ turning tea and coffee us a plate of fried rice paper to crunch on, cooked, not charred or dry. Three rolls were trader and restaurateur. along with free water (still all too rare in Ho served with a tasty salad, fresh green peas Even though he combines both East and Chi Minh City) and we selected a bottle of and baby corn. This is a dish we definitely West qualities into his food, Geoff makes no Venisquera Yelcho Reserve Especial Cabernet recommend for those seeking something a such concessions to the Vietnamese palate Sauvignon from Chile’s Colchagua Valley little out of the ordinary. when it comes to coffee - you won’t findca (VND549,000) from a small but carefully Our guest assured us the duck was tender phe sua da here! compiled wine list. and well cooked, not chewy or stringy. While Dinner menu starters include such staples For starters we opted for the contrast she usually prefers her duck a little rarer she as deep fried spring rolls, taro with shrimp, of pumpkin flowers stuffed with pork, could not fault the flavor. The dish comes with crispy tofu and grilled pork skewers (all from mushroom and onion (VND69,000) and - at three sauce options: tamarind, orange or green VND50,000 to VND95,000), along with salads, the waitress’ suggestion - a selection of deep pepper, an impressive choice for a duck dish. It soups and the more exotic fresh soft shelled fried spring rolls (VND52,000). was served with sautéed potatoes and salad. river crabs fried in butter and garlic. Mains The pumpkin flowers were unusual - pan We left Hatvala feeling content and well include grilled mackerel wrapped in banana fried rather than deep fried, thus soft and fed. We enjoyed tasty hearty cafe food, served leaf, fried stuffed squid, grilled pork and honey, moist rather than crunchy and decidedly by attentive, friendly staff who treat diners beef steak, salmon and five spice beef with rice better nutritionally than the spring rolls. like family rather than customers. And the - along with the traditional Vietnamese diced They were deliciously peppery, but the sweet price point is very reasonable, whatever the beef luc lac. All range from VND115,000 to no sauce tempered the de facto spice feel and dining budget.

42 Domo Arigato, Mr. Robata Within HCMC’s Little Tokyo is a new standout Japanese restaurant Text by Michael Arnold Images by Nam Quan

District One’s Little Tokyo along Le Japanese way of life as the heady ambience Japanese preference for deep-fried items on Thanh Ton is hardly short of Japanese venues, of the décor and good service. We start the menu, otherwise I’d have been guilty but you’d probably have to be Japanese with simple, healthy appetizers – a plate of that the standout dish of the whole meal yourself – or at least intimately familiar with endamame beans to snack on, and an An for me was the fried salmon with cheese the culture – to spot what’s been missing. special salad (VND80,000) – not expecting (VND100,000). An ingenious Japanese From the overly-vibrant sushi platters to to be overwhelmed by the sheer bulk of the reinvention of a very gentle deep-fry, mispronounced greetings uttered distractedly latter. Far too used to the smaller portions the melted cheese oozing from between by kimono-clad Vietnamese girls at the of other Japanese venues, we wondered the slices of fresh salmon (along with door, there has been a distinct lack of heart: if we’d made a mistake in ordering two the accompanying taru and homemade no sense of the exhausted, hard-working plates of sushi once the super California mayonnaise dipping sauces) put up such an Japanese salaryman and his business roll (VND100,000) showed up snaking elegant seduction. colleagues, their broad grins and the warmth enormously on a traditional heavy wooden None of the above would do justice to the of the shochu and grilled meat at the table; the platter, but we were rather pleased with our Japanese culture without regular gulps of Japanese culture as it’s actually lived – and foresight when the crispy shrimp tempura shochu between courses to freshen up the not merely put on show for foreigners. roll almost upstaged it, both dishes with palate and spread its warmth through every Robata Dining An (15C Le Thanh Ton, their acutely flavorsome and soy other part of the body. There are multiple D1) gets the ethos dead right. From its sauce on the side. ways to enjoy Japanese ‘wines’ – hot, on downstairs dining bar lined with copious ice, straight – but most Japanese expats bottles of Japanese spirits to its private rooms This Isn’t KFC here prefer it with mineral water for the upstairs with their sunken tables, sliding We’d been told that the most popular dish simple reason that dilution fools the body fusuma doors and tabletop barbeques, this by far with Japanese patrons is the deep- into allowing you to drink more of the is how you’d imagine a back-street Japanese fried chicken with garlic salt sauce “An” stuff. I settled for a large icy kurokirishima restaurant to be like. It’s taken just over a style (VND100,000). As a Westerner raised shochu from a jet-black bottle that left year to resonate with an impressive number on fast food, it’s impossible not to compare me wondering why I don’t think to enjoy of loyal Japanese clientele, their names tagged a plate of battered chicken pieces with the Japanese spirits more often. The hot glow to scores of reserved bottles ofshochu on likes of KFC – but this turned out to be a of its body and its unmistakable aroma display downstairs - the best recommendation good yardstick, as without the secret herbs & remained with me throughout the meal like the venue could possibly have. They’re spices it’s clear that there’s nothing artificial an angel with his hands on my shoulders. promises to return to a place that to them about this dish, bringing out the natural In the pleasant aftermath of the meal has already come to represent home in this flavors of the meat magically devoid of the and the kurokirishima, I had to wonder if foreign land. heaviness of cooking oil. If the first nibble the gradually ascending pleasure of dining The cuisine isn’t secondary to the venue’s seems a tad plain, be sure to make good use and drinking is in fact the essence of the unpretentious authenticity – Head Chef Mr. of the dipping sauce with its pleasant sesame wonderful cultural mystery that Robata Sakai has an implicit understanding that overtones. Dining An successfully captures in this flawless dishes are just as important to the I was grateful to have been told of the stargate to Japan.

43 FLAVOR OF THE MONTH FOOD Column y tti n g l an m a IMAGE BY q ui nn ry IMAGE Sippin' in Saigon Michael Kloster grew up in a vineyard county west of Fresno, California. He has over 20 years of Wine tasting is not the same as drinking it marketing, hospitality, food and beverage experience.

Not really. But please note that after several tastes, if you don’t spit, your palate will get tired and you will essentially stop tasting. Three Great Places to Taste: Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers (88 Dong Khoi, D1) Check out Sheraton’s Lobby Lounge. It features two flights (three 50 ml glasses of red or white) for VND260,000++. The wines are each from a different place, and made from different grapes. The trio also comes with a placemat with tasting notes so that you may compare your observations with those of the experts. There is a similar deal upstairs at the Level 23 Wine Bar. In addition to a great view, the al fresco venue offers three different flights at the same price.

Vino (74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1; Number 1 Duong So 2, D2) Proprietors Jim and Kylie bring a laid back Aussie feel to both their District 1 and District 2 locations. Their extensive list of wines by glass always features a few predictable drops, or you can browse the Swirl, sip, spit. Is that all there is to cloudiness. The color will also give you hints shelves and pick any wine you like from tasting wine? Well, yes and no. I think there’s as to the age of the wine (but more on that in one of the best selections in Saigon. Enjoy a lot of pretentiousness out there when it a future column). it elsewhere, or pay VND100,000 extra and comes to tasting wine - fancy verbiage, oddly drink it on their terrace. If you’re feeling inflated egos, specialized glassware, and a A. Now is when you should start to swirl. peckish, try your hand at pairing their myriad of fancy corkscrews and decanters - Wine is like a genie. It’s been trapped in a wines with their tasty tapas selection. that can overwhelm a lot of folks. bottle for quite some time. Swirling the wine I don’t think that wine needs to be fancy exposes it to oxygen and brings out more Wine Embassy to be enjoyed, or even appreciated. So, what aromas. Now sniff. Everyone’s aromatic (13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1) can the average person do when they want to appreciation is different depending on their A relative newcomer in Saigon, Wine explore the world of wine (and there is surely experience. When I taste wine with people Embassy is quickly proving it is here to a lot to explore)? From Old World to New from Vietnam, their sense of smell references stay. It easily has the largest and one of the World, Right Bank to Left Bank, Barolos to things from their experience. Sometimes best selections of wines by glass in town Bardolinos and everything in between, what I smell pineapple where they might smell (130!), and you can pick from three different does it all mean? For the novice taster, does it passionfruit. Neither is incorrect, so don’t portion pours (prices vary with the wines, really matter? I don’t think so, and don’t let worry about being ‘wrong.’ There are no so ask your server for details). Certified others tell you it does. What matters is this: wrong observations here. sommelier Francois Cateau and his team find the wine you like and drink it! Everyone of local talent preside over an Automat of has their own unique taste and wine allows T. Now to the best part: taste. Again, keep wine selection thanks to their fancy wine for that, with literally thousands of wines swirling, as your genie will still be catching preservation machines that keep the wine that offer different types of flavor profiles her breath. Take some wine into your mouth. fresh for weeks, rather than the one to two available right now in Vietnam. Ensure that your sip coats your whole days that most wines are only really good mouth. It isn’t required to slurp air into your for after opening. I find it fun to compare C.A.T in the Glass – mouth, as some do, but it is a fair amount of and contrast similar types of wine in this Three Basic Tasting Steps fun, and it helps bring more air, and hence, way. The whole place is organized around C. There are three basic steps to evaluate more flavor into the wine. This combination the idea of exploring the wine world. Take a wine. The first step is the color test. Check of smelling and tasting gives you a complete sip and dive in! for any imperfections, impurities or picture of the wine. Do you need to spit?

44 The List

Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly comprehensive Wine & Dine insider's guide for foreign residents - website launching 2013 128A Hai Ba Trung, D1 bars Carmen Bar bakeries 3829 6552 Carmen Bar features a small cavern-like kinhdobakery.vn entrance with rough rock walls decorated 6am - 10.30pm Allez Boo Bread Talk with ambient lighting. With an exclusive

With a mission to revitalize the once-stale range of drinks and cocktails, guests La Doree A popular bar in Saigon featuring tropical business of bread, Singaporean BreadTalk can relax while enjoying tunes from an Providing patrons with over 50 varieties of bamboo decor, multiple levels and a DJ now has outlets throughout Asia and excellent Flamenco band. has established itself in several HCMC cakes, along with a rich sandwich menu spinning funky beats. This unique bar from luxurious French-designed premises. offers a wide range of beers, shakes, 8 Ly Tu Trong, D1 locations. A brand partnership with Gloria 3829 7699 Jeans has seen a wide range of bakery La Doree is the best place in town for spirits cocktails and food throughout goods available in the cafés, with both macaroons. the day. Charm Bar brands sharing the premises at this 216 Ly Tu Trong, D1 187 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Unassuming expat bar in the central city location. 3822 1718 6291 5424 with table soccer and an upstairs floor for 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 www.ladoree.com [email protected] private functions. Opens late night. 3930 3181 7am - 9.30pm 24 hours 58 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 Brodard Bakery L’amour Bakery & Cafe Alto Heli Bar 3915 3826 More than just another bakery, L’amour [email protected] Brodard Bakery has been operating in is the perfect place for those whom are From the the 52nd floor of the Bitexco, Saigon for over 30 years. It provides finely looking for respite from busy HCMC. you can enjoy sweeping panoramic views Boudoir Lounge crafted cakes for all occasions in addition This patisserie offers a large selection of of the city’s skyline. Try the tapas tasting to ice cream, pastries, chocolate and tarts. European cake and pastry, fresh juice and platters, sip on French Champagne, or Designed to look like a lived-in yet coffee. You will also find pastas, salads, 95 Nguyen Hue, D1 choose from the selection of fine wines, immaculately styled Parisien home with and sandwiches, ideal for lunch time. 3821 2416 local and international beers available. plush leather sofas, silk cushions and Open from 6am – 10:30pm 6am - 10pm Level 52 Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai velvet armchairs, Boudoir Lounge serves 24 Hai Ba Trung D1 Trieu, D1 up everything from afternoon tea to Cakewalk Cupcakes Nhu Lan Bakery 6291 8752 evening cocktails along with signature [email protected] dishes for any occasion from informal One of the most famous and prestigious Small boutique cupcake shop offers www.cirrussaigon.com meals and business lunches to gourmet local brands of bakeries in the city, Nhu cupcakes with panache. Traditional Lan Bakery supplies bakery products, canapés accompanying evening drinks. cupcakes as well as new, creative flavors Bernie’s Bar & Grill cakes, bread, ham, sausage, poultry, Ground floor, Saigon Sofitel Plaza are sure to satisfy everyone who is roasted pork, and dried foods. 17 Le Duan, D1 compelled to bend to the will of their An Irish bar and restaurant serving 50 Ham Nghi, D1 3824 1555 sweet tooth. international cuisine like pizza, burgers, 3829 2970 84 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 pasta and more. Celebrates happy hour www.nhulan.vn Brotzeit German Bier Bar & 6295 9087 from 5 to 7pm, and frequently provides Restaurant 4am - 12am live music. 10am - 9pm 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 Pacey Cupcakes The HCMC venue is in the flashy Kumho Givral 3822 1720 This cozy little bakery features elegant complex on the edge of the central The cakes and tradition of this unique décor and offers 12 kinds of cupcakes district, and features a wide 24-meter cake shop have captivated generations Blue Gecko daily, located near the cathedral in a hip, restaurant frontage on the mezzanine of Vietnamese customers. With many modern setting. outlets throughout the city, this particular Blue Gecko provides a classic bar level and a contemporary and chic setting 53G Nguyen Du, D1 store was reopened in 2010 on its original experience complete with a pool table, with German-inspired wooden benches 3823 3223 site at Vincom A, built on the old Eden darts board, cold beer and friendly staff. and a long wooden bar counter. Serving [email protected] complex. Guests can watch live sports and relax in authentic Bavarian cuisines and premium www.paceycupcakes.com 171 Dong Khoi, D1 the comfortable ambience of the bar. beers. 9am - 10pm 3822 8659 31 Ly Tu Trong, D1 39 Le Duan, D1 www.saigongivral.com Pat’a Chou 3824 3483 9822 4206 [email protected] brotzeit.co/kumholink 6am - 10pm French-style bakery with charming décor. www.bluegeckosaigon.com Specializing in baguettes, fresh croissants 4.30pm - 12am Chilli Pub Saigon Oi’s Pick Gourmand Shop of various varieties, small quiches, and

cakes for every occasion. Bootleg DJ Café A traditional delicatessen shop featuring 74B Hai Ba Trung, D1 A fun place to unwind, with cold drinks, freshly baked baguettes, croissants, 3824 8179 good music (customers can choose the Modern, moody, and minimalist cafe bar chocolate breads, charcuteries, pastries, 5am - 10pm music) friendly staff, light pub food, weekly finest macaroons and other French with reasonable prices by day, chic lounge quiz night (Mondays), darts and televised delicacies prepared daily. Special products Savouré Bakery with DJs playing by night. Has a limited sport. Try a challenge shot from the big imported from France are also available Shops have a wide selection of cookies, menu of sandwiches and other health- Chilli on the bartop. such as French oysters, Damman Freres sweet and savory breads and cakes conscious Italian fare. 104 Ho Tung Mau, D1 luxury tea, and a range of authentic including cashew chocolate, taro and 9 Le Thanh Ton, D1 09 8376 3372 products. orange. Custom cakes can be ordered for 090 760 9202 [email protected] Ground floor, Sofitel Saigon Plaza weddings and holidays. [email protected] 4pm-4am 17 Le Duan, D1 Unit E3, 1st Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Centre, 3824 1555 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 Boston Sports Bar Chu Bar 3914 3773 Harvest Baking Located in the heart of the backpacker www.savourebakery.com At this beautiful, laid back venue, tourists area, Boston Sports Bar is open 24 hours and locals alike can sit around Chu’s large Harvest Baking offers a delivery-based and provides guests with a modern Schneider’s Cafe & Tea Corner oval bar or on luxurious padded benches. bakery service with a charitable focus, The bakers at Schneider’s offer fresh, bar-going experience. The bar boasts a teaching young Vietnamese hopefuls pool table, live sports on LCD TVs, and It has a full cocktail menu as well as a healthy, delicious breads, cakes, and short menu of snacks and sandwiches. how to bake delicious breads and cakes pastries, introducing Ho Chi Minh City to western food. 158 Dong Khoi, D1 through their food training program. eight centuries of German baking tradition. 28/4 Bui Vien, D1 3822 3907 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh 27 Han Thuyen, D1 6656 6338 7am - Midnight 3547 0577 2229 6910 t s harvestbaking.net Broma Saigon Bar a www.schneiders-finest.com Cloud 9 Rooftop Lounge 7am - 5pm Monday-Saturday 9.30am - 9pm Famously known for 'not being a bar' Kinh Do Bakery Tous Les Jours Broma is one of Ho Chi Minh City's most Located near Turtle Lake, this stunning bar popular hangouts with prices ranging offers panoramic views of Saigon. Guests Kinh Do Bakery makes reasonably priced A Korean owned French-style bakery from VND30,000 - VND500,000. Broma can peruse an extensive international baked goods to-go, such as cakes and franchise serving fresh baked bread and is a more upscale option for those wishing wine list or choose from an array of cupcakes, tarts, sandwiches, Vietnamese popular pastries, all baked on-site. to escape the cheap drinks in The Pham. creative cocktails and international beers. “banh bao”, Western-style hamburgers 180 Hai Ba Trung, D1 41 Nguyen Hue, D.1 Level 6&7, Hai Nam Building, 2 Bis Cong and mini-pizzas and gelatin-based 3823 8302 3823 6838 Truong Quoc, D3 desserts. 6am - 11pm [email protected] 090 944 5544 ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 45 Ginger 60 restaurant quality meals. The Sunday Purple Jade the famous Danish cartoonist Robert afternoon “Sausage Sizzle” and other Purple Jade is a stylish and chic venue Storm Petersen, and it’s the only Danish A low-key expat bar with an extensive weeknight events make this an appealing with exceptional world class cocktails by restaurant in Vietnam. drink menu and live music in a friendly venue for expats any day of the week. the city’s award-winning bartender along 5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 atmosphere. 149 Ton That Dam, D1 with snacks to melt away the bustle of 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn 60 Ton That Thiep, D1 3915 3149 the city. 10am - late 093 772 1011 First floor- InterContinental Asiana Saigon Long Phi Oi’s Pick Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan Vasco’s Go2 One of the staples in the backpacker 3520 9099

district, Long Phi is a no-frills bar that www.intercontinental.com/saigon Stylish bar, restaurant and cocktail lounge doubles as a cheap diner serving some Go2 is a popular nightspot in the Red Bar & Restaurant in a converted colonial style house. backpackers area. This two level bar offers fairly decent French and European cuisine. European and Asian fare downstairs dancing, shisha, and a streetside view 207 Bui Vien, D1 with extensive wine list and cocktails. DJs Popular nightspot and networking event with comfortable seating. The bar also 3837 2704 perform upstairs at night. venue near Bitexco Tower. Serves Aussie has a pool table and extensive western 6pm to very late, Tuesday - Sunday 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 pub food and hosts a live Filipino band. food menu. 3824 2888 3rd Floor, 70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 187 De Tham, D1 Lush www.vascosgroup.com 3836 9575 Another of Saigon's more infamous night 2229 7017 venues, this have-to-go/love-to-hate Ryan’s Pub 'Banter Bar' @ Stella 11am - late Hard Rock Café club is still as popular as ever, attracting a cafés

pumping Vietnamese and foreign crowd Occupying the top floor of Stella, this new Memorabilia from Hard Rock’s iconic on a nightly basis – if the reports from Achaya Cafe collection adorns the walls of Hard Rock bar has an outdoor terrace along with a local events websites are to be believed. Café Ho Chi Minh City and there is live pool table and dart boards indoors. Happy Lush has a highly distinctive, modern look, Achaya Cafe have two floors providing a music most nights. Located in the Kumho hour drinks are also available. nice atmosphere for meeting, relaxation or with different areas catering to different Plaza complex. First Floor, 119 - 121 Bui Vien, D1 party. The menu is extensive with drinks needs, including a VIP space with plush 39 Le Duan, D1 090 000 0042 and Western, Japanese, Vietnamese couches for chatting with hot new friends. 6291 7595 [email protected] food from sandwiches, spaghetties, www.hardrockcafe.vn 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 pizzas, steak and special Japanese sweet 11.30am - 2am www.lush.com.vn Saigon Saigon Bar desserts. 90 Le Loi, D1 Heaven Bar Saigon M52 Bar In wartime Saigon, the rooftop of the 093 897 2050 Caravelle hotel was one of the most 11am - 10:30pm Standing out from other nightclubs, A bar catering primarily to foreigners. popular drinking holes in the city for Heaven Bar impresses their guests with Offers a simple setting for a night of foreign journalists and expat embassy Aisha Lounge nice decor in tone of red and blue, a broad drinking in the company of friends. staff – and it remains one of the most range of sparkling drinks, Ladies’ night, 34 Ton That Thiep, D1 sought-out casual tourist attractions in Secreted away in a small alleyway on awesome DJ at weekend, and many 3821 0151 the city today. Panoramic views of Saigon Pasteur, Aisha lounge is a fascinating exciting events for expats. 5pm - 12am can still be obtained on the garden terrace Turkish-style coffee shop designed with despite all the construction, and efforts 8 Le Quy Don, D3 an Arabic architectural theme. The ground have been made to preserve the original 090 534 3316 Miss Saigon Oi’s Pick floor is washed in a Mediterranean blue character of the venue with its multiple www.barsaigonheaven.com tone, and seating is on plush cushions ceiling fans, subdued decor, and quietly of the kind you'd expect to spend the 5pm - 2am Recently opened, this quaint and cozy bar romantic atmosphere with oil candles on evening lounging around on in a haze Ice Blue offers great service and delicious cocktails the table tops. with an exotic pipe. Rather incongruously, for those looking to quench their thirst 19 Lam Son Square, D1 however, Aisha offers a menu studded after work. Beers start at VND30,000 3823 4999 with various Vietnamese drinks and food A small, atmospheric, emphatically and cocktails start at VND55,000 with www.caravellehotel.com/en/1/15/325/ – although the belly dance show does English-style pub, Ice Blue is a popular happy hour from 6pm – 8pm where beers products.aspx evoke the spirit of the interior design. meeting place for Ho Chi Minh City’s cost VND20,000. Open from 6pm to 63/1 Pasteur, D1 expats with reasonably priced drinks, midnight. Saigon Retro Oi’s Pick 6660 9040 friendly staff and a cozy atmosphere. 8A/1C1 Thai Van Lung, D1 [email protected] Great place to play darts. One of the newest expat bars on the www.aishalounge.com 54 Dong Khoi, D1 MTV block, offering friendly bar service. Live 3822 2664 sport on screen, including English Premier AQ Coffee 3pm - 1am A large Vietnamese cafe in D3 spread League. Beautiful café situated in one of the city’s over two levels with space for quiet 113 Ho Tung Mau, D1 oldest French mansions, serving coffee Kim’s Tavern made with traditionally-roasted coffee romantic chat or larger group meets. 6278 2349 beans. Serves a broad range of coffees and 4pm - 2am An expat bar on the edge of the 32 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 downtown shopping district renowned for chilled drinks. 3829 8344 65 Vo Van Tan, D3 Sheridan’s Irish Pub Oi’s Pick friendly, attractive staff, cold beer, and a Offering traditional Irish food like biscuits 7.30am - 11.30pm 3930 2597 relaxed ‘local pub’ environment. and sausage, along with British dishes like [email protected] 20 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 fish and chips or bangers and mash and Angel-in-us Coffee www.mtvcafe.com.vn 090 777 5141 even local menu items. A sophisticated and classy coffee 7am - 11pm 4pm - 1am 24 Ngo Van Nam, D1 franchise with exemplary attention to 3823 0793 detail, Angel-in-us has a pretty angel wing Last Call Oi’s Pick Number Five Bar 8am to midnight motif and a quality coffee menu. Number Five Bar has become notorious 145 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A fine hole-in-the-wall cocktail bar in the for its “all you can drink” draught tiger beer Slate 3827 8588 centre of town opposite the Sheraton offer. Attractive waitresses are always facebook.com/angelinuscoffeevn Hotel, Last Call is a 70's themed lounge enthusiastic contestants on the billiards Slate takes its name from the dark grey Blue Cafe with a permanent neon glow. Now one table. slate tiling that covers the floor of the

of the most popular expat/hip local late 44 Pasteur, D1 entire establishment. A modern, relaxing A sprawling, unique cafe in Go Vap, with evening bars, with a small deck from 3915 3150 spot for an after-dinner drink with an indoor-outdoor seating and an attempt to which to overlook the nightlife set on extensive martini list and delicious BBQ [email protected] recreate the appeal of rural Dalat. Enjoy Dung Du. menu. A tad difficult to find above a BMW 3pm - 1am the shade inside, or sit outside amidst the 59 Dong Du, D1 dealership, but accessible from the hotel it 3823 3122 greenery and watch aircraft taking off from O’Brien’s Oi’s Pick is worth the effort. Ton Sat airport. Extensive menu and broad Le Pub Two-storey Irish-themed bar & restaurant 3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen range of coffees and chilled drinks. furnished to high standard. O’Brien’s Van Troi, Phu Nhuan 701-703 Phan Van Tri, Go Vap

promotes a relaxed, comfortable 3844 9222 3588 6824 In a brawny Australian snub to the effete atmosphere. Known for its excellent food 5pm - 11pm www.mtvcafe.com.vn vestiges of French Colonialism that menu, this is a fun place to socialize while 7am - 11pm pervade in Saigon, Le Pub is a hearty Spotted Cow Oz-styled pub proudly located in a small shooting pool, playing darts, or chatting with the friendly staff. Bobby Brewer’s t s alleyway between Pham Ngu Lao and Bui Hearty breakfasts, great pub grub, cheap a 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Vien st, Opposite the Chua Au lac arch, drinks and the latest sport on TV make A contemporary cafe in the backpacker where it is a magnet for backpackers and 3829 3198 this an appealing destination for tourists www.irish-barsaigon.com area set over three floors, the cafe blokey expats. The manager and staff are of all budgets. Located in the heart of the features a large free cinema, a great friendly enough too, I suppose. Phatty’s backpacker district. place for couples. 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 111 Bui Vien, D1 45 Bui Vien, D1 3837 7679 A sports bar offering a selection of ice- 3920 7670 3920 4090 www.lepub.org cold local and imported beers as well as a [email protected] www.bobbybrewers.com complete range of tasty pub food. Central 11am - 12pm Lindo features are the TVs, connected to an Boulevard Cafe extensive sports channel network. Storm P ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013 Cozy sports bar with big screen TVs and 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Storm P restaurant and bar is named after This Parisian-style cafe has a fine, white

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 46 tone and a warm ambiance that attempts Cosmo Lounge now has a solid presence in Ho Chi Kesera a look of luxury with its plush sofas and Minh City with multiple locations in the chandeliers. Cosmo Lounge is a popular location inner city. While the favourite Dong Khoi A cozy and friendly café/bar serving 98 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan for stylish and trendy locals and expats address has now been given over to a coffee, beer, wines, freshly- baked alike. Chill out in a bold blue and white Sony store, new venues in Vincom A and homemade cakes and delicious at CMT8 prove this favourite brand with Bukafe - Cafe environment with local and European Western food. locals and expats alike is steadily growing cafe food and a broad selection of coffees 26/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 in Vietnam. This quaint cafe offers a Japanese style and drinks. keserakesera.com 2 bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3 setting with chairs that have you seated 86 Bis Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.gloriajeanscoffees.com/vn on the ground. While offering elegant 3823 5848 Kita Coffee drinks and tasty simple dishes, make sure Highlands Coffee to catch the live bands. It won't set you Cooku’s Nest This three- storey establishment provides back much either with inexpensive drinks. patrons with Lavazza coffee along with a 43 Nguyen Huu Cau, D1 With over 50 cafes in Vietnam, Highlands unique Mediterranean menu. Cooku’s nest has a clean, artsy vibe Coffee serves up international and 090 265 2635 offering drinks and snacks. 39-41 Nguyen Hue, D1 [email protected] traditional Vietnamese blends. Coffee 3914 0683 13 Tu Xuong, D3 lovers can also find Highlands premium [email protected] 2241 2043 Café Ban Sonate quality blends in selected hotels and 7.30am - 10pm Cafe Ban Sonate is a peaceful haven, Crèperie & Café supermarkets. tucked away from the boisterous noise Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Kopi Beans of the city. This cafe offers elegant decor Inexpensive Western fare targeted mainly i-Box Cafe along with indoor and outdoor seating Kopi Beans Cafe is a favorite among at locals, delivering some fairly decent options. high school kids. It’s a small takeaway low-cost sandwiches. iBox cafe is a unique, cafe with aristocratic 53 Dang Dung, D1 coffee shop with cheap espresso and 5 Han Thuyen, D1 decor. This decorative cafe specializes 3290 6004 iced coffees. in red wine, Asian dishes and spaghetti. 206 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Caffe Fresco DeJa Vu Cafe They also offer an extensive selection of ice cream creations. L’amour It is easy to mistake this cafe for 135 Hai Ba Trung, D1 A new player on the scene currently someone’s home as the tranquil 3825 6718 battling for supremacy in the coffee chain A stylish bakery and cafe new to Hai atmosphere will have you tension free market, Fresco offers a wide range of Ba Trung, in the city centre, L'amour in no time. The peaceful setting is ideal ID Café espresso and local coffees, juices and specialises in cakes and desserts and for dates or low-key social events. Make smoothies. serves Illy Coffee. Eat in or take away. sure to catch the live bands that frequent Separated from the bustle of nearby Ben 24 Hai Ba Trung, D1 121 Le Loi, D1 the cafe. Thanh Market by a tiny alleyway, ID is a 3520 8180 3821 1009 314/2 Dien Bien Phu, D10 retro café opening a door to an earlier www.lamourbakery.com www.fresco.com.vn 6276 6966 Saigon. Café Terrace [email protected] 34D Thu Khoa Huan, D1 L’Anmien Dining Cafe Imagine Coffee shop Linked to the luxurious Mui Ne hotel of Cafe Terrace is a popular modern cafe/ Elle Cafe the same name, this internationally-styled restaurant in the chic Saigon Center. This One of the walls of this rustic cafe is Keeping in line with the sense of style that sidewalk café is a place to relax and enjoy cozy, dimly lit cafe offers customers a long literally covered with books. An easy comes along with the Elle fashion label the cool air and watch the busy inner-city outdoor terrace with views of the bustling place to get lost for an evening with prices brand, the menu and décor of Elle Cafe traffic from a more refined vantage. pedestrian and traffic scene. A second below VND100, 000. sets it apart from the competition. 76A Le Lai, D1 cafe is located on the first floor amongst 58 Ho Bieu Chanh, Phu Nhuan Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 45 38212718 fashion stores. 090 956 0105 Ground Floor & First Floor, Saigon Centre, Ngo Duc Ke, D1 www.facebook.com/ImagineCafeShop LightBox Cafe 6291 8766 65 Le Loi, D1 09 0956 0105 Geisha’s Coffee and Tea House [email protected] This stunningly designed cafe also Cafe Vuon Kieng 8am - 10pm doubles as an event and photography studio, so make sure you dress to Cafe Vuon Kieng is a quiet, casual cafe Experience a funky, relaxed atmosphere Kebab Cafe impress at this location because you near the banks of the Saigon River, with a refreshing drinks & delicious snack never know who might snap your picture. boasting relaxing views and refreshing at Geisha Coffee and Tea House. A retreat The healthiest kebab! Featuring an They also serve vegetarian cuisine with breezes. This riverside cafe offers jasmine away from the hustle and bustle of the excellent homemade white sauce, fresh prices ranging between VND300,000 - tea, coffee, ice cream, beer, even cocktails. streets of Saigon. veggies and chicken or pork marinated VND500,000 10B Ton Duc Thang, D1 85 Pasteur, D1 without oil. The French owner also serves 179 Hoa Lan, Phu Nhuan 3823 3279 3829 4004 savory and sweet crepes and a home- 3517 6668 www.geishacafe.com made puree. www.lightbox.vn Cake Durian Duiro 538/2/8 Doan Van Bo, D4 01648 805 915 L’Usine A chain of cafes selling durian inspired [email protected] L’Usine is a retail, café and gallery crepes and buns with prices under www.kebab-cafe.com space occupying two locations in the VND100,000. 10am - 10pm center of D1. Its retail space is dedicated Kiosk in Le Thi Rieng Park, 875 Cach Mang to Vietnamese designers and more Thang 8, D10 Kem My established brands from abroad as well 093 333 9365 as stocking a wide range of stationary www.banhsaurieng.com This quiet ice cream shop is the perfect and home ware items. The café in both place for families and couples to indulge locations serves international fare and Centrofarms Coffee their sweet tooth. It offers a fresh release a range of pastries and the ever popular This recently opened cafe, located near from the heat of Ho Chi Minh City. Sweet & Sour Cupcakes. the airport, sells its own eponymous brand 11 Duong 41, D4 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 093730 3030 of Centrofarm organic roasted beans 70B Le Loi, D1 Hatvala www.kemmy.vn direct from Dalat with indoor and outdoor www.lusinespace.tumblr.com 3.30pm - 11pm 9am – 9pm seating that’s perfect for people watching This tea house, and getting your daily dose of caffeine. coffee shop and 19 Ut Tich, Tan Binh restaurant offers selected, quality Chi’s Cafe Vietnamese tea and coffee to drink or to buy as leaves and beans. They also Chi’s Café is a restaurant serving have a delightful all day casual dining both Western and Vietnamese food area in their stylish bistro. in the backpacker area. The menu 44 Nguyen Hue, D1 is extensive, with everything from 3824 1534 sandwiches and pizzas to their 8am - 11pm popular baked potatoes with filling. [email protected] 40/31 Bui Vien, D1 www.hatvala.com 3836 7622 www.facebook.com/hatvala t s a Ciao Cafe Hi-End Coffee

An icon in downtown HCMC, Ciao cafe Located near the leafy Tao Dan Park, Hi- features two floors serving simple food, End Coffee is one of a few venues serving Tired of looking for love in the city's bars? coffee, smoothies and ice cream – and up just as much music as caffeine. an opulent lounge bar on the top floor. 126 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 A premium offline matchmaking service Antique tiles mix with velvet curtains 3824 1004 for successful, serious men and women in and stylish paintings to make this a Open to 10pm Vietnam. Private, discreet and risk free memorable chill out environment. 74-76 Nguyen Hue, D1 Gloria Jean's ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013 40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Australia’s most popular coffee franchise www.LoveInVietnam.com

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 47 Le Tokyo Baum dreamers of Ho Chi Minh City, hidden indulge in good cafe food over candlelight such as roasted chicken, duck, and pork. away in a tiny alleyway off Pasteur. in a dark, intimate environment hidden 20 Le Anh Xuan, D1 Popular Japanese cake cafe with quiet Discover it if you can. amongst trees and trickling streams. Relax 3822 2673 seating area, specializing in orange cakes. 63/18 Pasteur, D1 in an air conditioned room or dine alfresco 46 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 amongst the greenery. The perfect spot to Kabin 3926 0388 Regina Coffee impress a date with your local knowledge. A popular hangout for hip, young 100 Tran Huy Lieu St, Phu Nhuan Kabin is a Cantonese restaurant May Coffee Vietnamese around Nguyen Du, serving 2240 5306 specializing in exotic dishes such as baked A superb, friendly, and inexpensive little western coffee in a vintage, artsy duck tongue, grouper cutlet, and lobster café most notable for its perfect view environment. The Myth Cafe soup. Located in the five star Renaissance of the Cathedral tower bells and close 84 Nguyen Du, D1 Riverside Hotel, this restaurant offers a proximity to the post office. Escape the daily grind of Ho Chi Minh City wide variety of dim sum. 1 Cong Xa Paris, D1 Soho Coffee with a trip into the mystical setting of Myth Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 3827 7099 Cafe. With live bands and prices under 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 www.maycoffee.com Two level local cafe chain serving light VND100,000 it's no wonder The Myth 3822 0033 meals, coffee and local chilled drinks. cafe is one of the best around. Minhu Coffee 185 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 176 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Li Bai Chinese Restaurant 3839 5038 3820 9735 Located in the Sheraton Hotel, Li Bai This specialty cafe offers a wood 7am - 11pm [email protected] offers a selection of over 50 dim sum furniture interior setting, which resembles dishes as well as traditional Chinese and the cabins you would expect to see in the Starbucks Coffee Trung Nguyen Cafe Cantonese specialties. Diners will enjoy western North American frontier. Live the relaxed, upscale ambiance provided bands are a regular feature at the cozy Has a large, open ground floor space with One of the most ubiquitous coffee by the wood paneling and oriental art. cafe and prices are inexpensive. ample seating in booths and tables, and a brands in Vietnam. With a burgeoning Level 2, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 149/35 Le Thi Rieng, D1 smaller space upstairs with views out on presence throughout the city, it’s hard 3827 2828 3601 9319 the busy Nga 6 Phu Dong roundabout. to go anywhere without tripping over a www.libaisaigon.com Also has outdoor seating. Expect to pay Trung Nguyen café – serving gourmet MTV Cafe Western prices. Vietnamese street coffee. Ming Court 76 Le Lai, D1 26B-C Le Loi, D1 Providing a relaxing atmosphere after a Since the Nikko Hotel graced the Saigon hard day’s work with some of the top hits Stella Restaurant & Cafe The Serenata Cafe skyline, the venue has managed to set the out today, MTV cafe is the perfect place to standard for classy, five-star dining with its unwind with that special someone or just Providing authentic Italian and The Serenata Cafe is a peaceful, relaxing bold grey modern decor and Japanese-style a cup of coffee. Vietnamese food using fresh imported oasis in a French Colonial house. This cafe efficiency. Ming Court, on the hotel's third 65 Vo Van Tan, D3 and local premium-quality ingredients. embraces nature with plants, fishponds, floor, is a large Chinese restaurant with all 3930 2597 Where else can you find such good and small fountains, and offers music in the expected graces of the Orient belonging mtvcafe.com.vn coffee/cuisine at such reasonable prices? the evenings. to the exotic fantasy of the dynastic era. NYDC 119-121 Bui Vien, D1 6D Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 3rd floor, Nikko Saigon Hotel t s a 3836 9220 3930 7436 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 A fun, dynamic and cosmopolitan place www.stellacaffe.com 3925 7777 for food, desserts, beverages and not Windows forgetting the company of good friends. The Blue Cafe Seven Wonders (Bay Ky Quan) Prices range between VND100,000 - A highly fashionable cafe near the It’s worth traipsing out to D6 for this one. Not VND300,000. A spacious cafe divided into two different cathedral. For many years, this eye- only are the Dim Sum, Peking Duck, and Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 areas with a lush, outdoor garden seating catching venue has remained a place to pan-China home-style cuisine exemplary, 3822 9992 lounge and an air conditioned in-door see and be seen, often frequented by but the venue design, with its architectural www.nydc.com.vn lounge. The Blue Cafe has live music with the famous, the well-to-do, and the ne’er flourishes from the seven wonders of the drinks under VND100,000. do well. world (including the Great Wall, the Taj Onset Cafe 701-703 Phan Van Tri, Go Vap 12 Alexandre De Rhodes, D1 Mahal, and the pyramids) makes for a highly ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013 3588 6824 38238408 distinctive dining experience. This lounge cafe features live bands 12 Duong 26, D6 and is a good setting for work events The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf Zoom Cafe Oi’s Pick 3755 1577 or business meetings. With bold interior www.7kyquan.com furniture it is a popular respite for Ho Chi Offering over 22 varieties of coffee and This distinctive Vespa-themed Café has Minh residents. 20 kinds of tea, The Coffee Bean & Tea been a popular fixture in D1 for ten years. Shang Palace Restaurant 319 Ly Thuong Kiet, D11 Leaf has been serving the best coffees Today, the café serves as the place for 6670 7092 and teas from around the world for more Vespa enthusiasts and tour veterans The slightly off-centre, high-class Norfolk [email protected] than 40 years in its cozy, handcrafted oak to swap stories over ice-cold beers and Mansion Hotel on Ly Tu Trong is home paneled stores. what many claim is the best selection to one of Saigon's most well-respected Paris Deli www.coffeebean.com.vn of mouth-watering burgers, paninis, and Chinese restaurants outside of Chinatown. 7am - 11pm baguette sandwiches in town. Located on the 1st floor, Shang's dark A French style cafe serving some of 39 Le Duan, D1 169A Bui Vien, D1 intricate wooden tables and chairs with the best pastries in Saigon, this cheerful Ground Floor, Crescent Mall 3920 3897 white linen and deep red carpeting make spot is a real slice of Parisian life. Many Ton Dat Tien, D7 for an atmosphere of moody opulence; European drinks and dishes. 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D1 there is seating for over 300 guests, and Ground Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 39 Le Duan, D1 chinese private rooms are available. 3821 6127 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Dragon Court 17-19-21, Ly Tu Trong, D1 Passio Coffee to Go 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 3823 2221 235 Dong Khoi, D1 Dragon Court is a large restaurant Passio Coffee offers its guests fine 1-5 Le Duan, D1 opposite the Opera House in Saigon’s Shi-Fu Dim sum Italian style coffee made from the finest 60-62 Cach Mang Thang 8, D3 bustling District 1. Enjoy Chinese dishes ingredients. Since Passio’s inception in 1-3 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 from many regions with dishes like glass Shifu Dim Sum House is a restaurant 2006, this enthusiastic team of coffee noodles, hot pot, and a large dim sum specializing in dim sum, with modern brewers has become recognized by The Library collection. Chinese décor and over 68 dim sum dishes. international coffee drinkers. The Library provides a welcoming 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 139A Nguyen Trai, D1 112 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 atmosphere for those in search of 3827 2566 3925 1111 Phuong Cac Cafe tranquility, comfort and great drinks in the www.dimsumhouse.vn heart of Saigon Dynasty With indoor and outdoor lounge areas this Ground floor – InterContinental Asiana Yu Chu cafe is a relaxing respite from the grind Saigon New World hotel's in-house Chinese Yu chu is renowned for the quality and of Ho Chi Minh City. With live bands and Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan restaurant is certainly a venue of fine presentation of its authentic Cantonese drinks under VND100,000 it makes for 3520 9099 contemporary Chinese dining. The chef and Peking cuisines along with its elegant the perfect getaway. www.intercontinental.com/saigon offers a variety of authentic Cantonese décor. Watching the chefs prepare Bis 213 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 dishes along with classic dim sum under a signature dishes such as hand-pulled 3932 7484 The Living Room high lantern/chandelier-lit ceiling, in a broad noodle, dim sum and Peking duck right in dining room decorated in classic Chinese the kitchen is a prominent dining feature Phúc Minh Coffee The Living Room has two floors providing style. VIP guests can dine in one of four here. a laid-back atmosphere for meet-ups semi-private or thee totally private rooms. First floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon Phuc Minh coffee is an airy, clean or after-work relaxation over drinks and New World Hotel Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan environment providing a varied menu and Western and Vietnamese food. 76 Le Lai, D1 3520 9099 delicious coffee. The staff is attentive and 40-42 Dong Du, D1 3822 8888 www.intercontinental.com/saigon quick with a friendly approach. Prices start 3822 0377 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com around VN 25,000 for this simple cafe. 51 Hung Phuoc 4, D7 Tram Coffee Oi’s Pick Hung Ky Mi Gia french www.quancafe.vn/phucminh.1 A unique romantic cafe experience Hung Ky Mi Gia is a famous and long- Alibi Restaurant and Bar Princess and the Pea hidden well off the beaten track, but close standing restaurant with more than 13 to District 1 in neighbouring Phu Nhuan years of operation. It serves traditional Centrally located a stone’s-throw from the A fairytale-themed venue for the District. Sip a coffee, juice or beer or Chinese cuisine with authentic dishes Opera House in downtown D1, this is a

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 48 warm, appealing lounge environment with 38 Dong Du, D1 and black & white photographs on HCMC, L'essentiel offers a quiet intimate modest prices. 0862913657 whitewashed walls. Its warm lighting dining experience downstairs with space 5 Nguyen Sieu, D1 [email protected] and clean atmosphere belies a certain for private functions and alfresco dining 3825 6257 www.labrasseriedesaigon.com sophistication, however, and the price of on an upper floor. The menu changes 11.30pm - 2.30pm; 6pm - 12am the fare is significantly damaging enough weekly, the food is fresh and the wine list Au Manoir de Khai to make this a rare treat for those not in carefully collated. La Camargue the restaurant's fabulously wealthy target 98 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Au Manoir de Khai is an authentic, first market. 0948 415 646 class French restaurant. Guests can enjoy Known for its high food quality, 48 Le Thanh Ton, D1 traditional French cuisine in this classic reasonable prices and a fine selection 2229 8882 Le Bordeaux 100 year old villa. Their menu is extensive of wine, the long running La Camargue www.lacuisine.com.vn and features dishes like Kobe beef, foie serves up home-style French cuisine in an Set in a French colonial-style mansion, Le gras, red grouper, and truffle mushrooms. open plan 1st-floor terrace. La Doree Bordeaux serves southwestern French 251 Dien Bien Phu, D3 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, D1 La Doree provides its patrons with over cuisine in a beautiful setting. Known for its 3930 3394 50 varieties of cakes, as well as a rich foie gras and large selection of wines, Le sandwich menu. They are located in Bordeaux is worth the trip to Binh Thanh Bon Appetit the heart of District 1 in a building with a district. luxurious French design. In addition to 72 D2 Street, Binh Thanh A small French-Vietnamese fusion bistro sweets and snacks, this eatery also serves 3899 9831 on Pham Ngoc Thach with a simplistic coffee, cocktails, and their specialty: green restaurant-lebordeaux.com.vn tea tiramisu. charm enhanced by a fine selection of 11.30am - 1.30pm; 6.30am - 9.30pm old-style French music. 216 Ly Tu Trong, D1 78 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 08 3822 1718 Le Bouchon De Saigon 090 789 8345 www.ladoree.com Bonjour Restaurant La Fourchette Red and white checked tablecloths and closely set tables make Le bouchon

de Saigon the place to go for a casual, Bonjour serves up international dishes with a Small and cozy, La Fourchette is a favorite classic French bistro experience under French flair. The large menu of main courses amongst the French expat community. feature roast duck, salmon, lamb and steak The vintage posters and wood paneling the eye of iron chef Vietnam winner with specialties being ostrich and venison. add to the charm of this French eatery David Thai. 150/26 Nguyen Trai, D1 located downtown, a stone’s throw from 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 3926 0699 La Creperie the Saigon River. www.lebouchondesaigon.com La Creperie is the first 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 authentic Brittany French Cordon Blue 3829 8143 Le Jardin restaurant that serves www.lafourchette.com.vn Le Jardin is a gorgeous enclosed garden savory galettes, sweet A unique French venue decorated with blue space that allows eaters to follow the crepes with tasty seafood and La Nicoise example of the French colonists a century and green shades serving high-quality French the best apple cider in Saigon. cuisine on the outskirts of the inner city. ago and pretend they're actually in Paris. 17/7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Whether dining outside under the shaded 38 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 3824 7070 A small, friendly French bistro with about terrace or within the old, warmly-lit villa, 3822 5216 infosgn@lacreperie. a dozen tables, La Nicoise serves up www.cordonblue.vn com.cn typical French dishes under the watchful the cuisine, decor, and general mood of Mon-Sun 11am-11pm eye of its French-Vietnamese owners. the place is like a Stargate direct to France. La Brasserie de Saigon 56 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 31D Thai Van Lung, D1 3821 3056 3825 8465 Set in a trendy space featuring art La Cuisine nouveau décor and intricate iron L'essentiel L’Olivier spiralstaircases, La brasserie de Saigon This ultra-fine little bistro is an exercise in presents authentic French cuisine with minimalism with its twenty seats and bare, A recent arrival to the growing ranks of L’Olivier is a restaurant serving authentic Parisian brasserie service experience. chic-rustic interior of wooden furnishings authentic French dining experiences in Mediterranean cuisines, located on the t s a ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013

49 2nd floor of the Hotel Sofitel. city if you're ever on holiday and missing invoking something like an Italian town, Ajisen Ramen Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1 your curries. this venue focuses on traditional ethnic 3824 1555 226 Bui Vien, D1 Italian cuisine (rather than the ubiquitous One of the more authentic Japanese www.sofitel.com 3837 1767 pizza and pasta), creations of the skillful venues in the area with ingredients executive chef – straight out of Venice. imported from Japan, this restaurant is The Refinery Oi’s Pick The Punjabi The place lights up on romantic Thursday best-known for its tasty “white” soups. The evenings with candlelight and light music. restaurant serves at least 250 traditional This Parisian bistro hidden away in its Authentic North Indian cuisine prepared 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 dishes. enclave on Hai Ba Trung is an exceptional in a home-made tandoori oven makes 3823 1080 120 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 venue, making for an elegant reparation Punjabi a popular spot for budget www.lahostaria.com of the sins of the past. It was here in conscious eaters who crave Indian 3822 0522 French Colonial days that opium was standbys like spinach naan and chicken Lucca Oi’s Pick manufactured, bringing ruin to the people tandoori. Aki Japanese Restaurant of Asia; it is here that a far softer side 40/3 Bui Vien, D1 A Brooklyn-style Italian eatery upstairs of the French culture now exercises 3508 3777 with an adjoining bar. Downstairs is a A small Japanese restaurant with a cozy its influence over present-day Saigon, relaxing cafe offering generous breakfasts, and comfortable atmosphere, Aki serves serving modern European cuisine in its simple cafe fare for lunch and some of the over 100 authentic Japanese dishes. tastefully decorated dining area and airy italian best espresso coffee you’ll find in the city. 15/9 Le Thanh Ton, D1 outdoor patio. 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1 3827 9083 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Basilico Restaurant 3915 3692 3825 7667 8am - 11pm Blanchy Street Oi’s Pick www.therefinerysaigon.com Trattoria-style Italian eatery Basilico specializes in homespun recipes. Margherita Once hidden upstairs at the Blanchy's Ty Coz Oi’s Pick Contemporary décor, casual ambience, Tash bar, Blanchy Street now has its own and casual yet attentive Bistro-style Well-reviewed overseas, Margherita is location in the courtyard of eateries on An unpretentious venue focused only on service makes it a relaxing dinner venue. a familiar place to tourists trawling the Hai Ba Trung, offering authentic Japanese serving great cuisine. Ty Coz provides a Ground floor, on the Corner of Nguyen Du & nooks of Ho Chi Minh City. This is partly food mixed with fusion cuisine and the fine balcony view of the cathedral, intimate Le Van Huu, D1 a result of its agreeable price, sumptuous occasional additional Southeast Asian atmosphere, and affordable prices. 3520 9099 Western-style pizzas, English-speaking dish. Run by an ex Nobu (London) chef 178/4 Pasteur, D1 6.30am - 10.30pm staff, and more than average customer with his own signature dishes, it has wide 3822 2457 service. appeal. Food is designed to be shared www.tycozsaigon.com Capricciosa 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 and is backed by an extensive list of 3837 0760 Vatel Saigon Restaurant sakes and wines. You'll find the standards here – pizza, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 pasta, soups, salads, with a few special Opera Restaurant 3823 8793 This is a fine, well-managed, and even dishes such as calamari and onion in www.blanchystreet.com luxurious dining venue serving authentic squid ink sauce. They're all prepared A contemporary, casual trattoria-style

t s * Reviewed by Oi in April 2013 a French cuisine in a Franco-Viet design according to strict Japanese standards, Italian restaurant overlooking the Opera space. There's red carpet along the and the result is actually really good. House, Opera is located within Park Hyatt Cam On Restaurant entrance way, gallery-standard art on Booth B3-03A, Level B3 Saigon specializing in authentic pizza

the walls, and an overall atmosphere of Vincom Tower, 70 Le Thanh Ton, D1 baked in a wood-fired oven, pasta and Cam On specializes in Japanese health refinement and good service. 3993 9786 homemade Italian dishes. 120 bis Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 www.capricciosa.com.vn 1st floor Park Hyatt Hotel, food, with a dedication to helping men 08 5404 2220 2 Lam Son Square, D1 and women maintain their beauty and vatelsaigon.com Casa Italia 3824 1234 health by providing quality cuisine with www.saigon.park.hyatt.com natural ingredients. Italian owned & run, Casa Italia’s menu 6am - 11pm 30 Thai Van Lung, D1 indian ranges from home-style cooking that 3823 3955 ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013 includes steaks, seafood, a large variety Pizza 4P’s Oi’s Pick www.cam-on.asia Baba’s Kitchen Oi’s Pick of homemade pastas, jumbo salads, A little treasure hidden away at the top appetizers and the best pizzas. of an out-of-the-way alley off Le Thanh Dragon Hotpot Baba’s Kitchen, also known as the best 86 Le Loi, D1 Ton, this Japanese pizzeria is a major hit Indian restaurant on Bui Vien, is familiar 3824 4286 with those in the know. Highly attractive Dragon Hotpot blends fine taste with the among expats and locals alike, rating www.casaitalia.com.vn premises and some extraordinary healthy ingredients of Japanese cuisine. 4.5 out of five stars on Trip Advisor. Their toppings catering to all tastes make this Drinks include Japanese favorites along vindaloo is a must try. an unmissable pizza experience. with fine international wines. 164 Bui Vien, D1 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, D1 122-124 Ho Tung Mau, D1 3838 6661 012 0789 4444 3825 8842 www.babaskitchen.in www.pizza4ps.com 11am - 11pm Dragon Noodle Pomodoro Bombay Indian Restaurant A rather small but pretty restaurant with Located in D1 near the Ben Thanh Market In this family-style, simply-decorated warm tones and a nice series of murals area, serving Indian & Halal cuisine. The trattoria restaurant with an arched ceiling depicting old Saigon, Dragon Noodle ambiance is relaxed thanks to Bombay’s and an all-brick interior, a fine Italian focuses on the Japanese staple – ramen easy-going, family kitchen vibe. Ciao Bella Oi’s Pick menu pleases diners with 12 different noodle soups – although their version 57-59 Ham Nghi, D1 pizzas along with pasta dishes, parma is a little less spicy than is traditionally 9am - 10.30pm Hearty home- ham with a spicy tomato chutney, and served, increasing perhaps the a highly-recommended French onion style Italian food international appeal of the dish. There are Ganesh served with flair and excellent service. soup. Ideal option for a simple, reliable, a total of four soup bases to accompany An extensive menu is complemented and thoroughly pleasant night out with no the noodles. Ganesh serves authentic northern Indian with daily specials. Arriving guests are complications. 29 Dong Du, D1 tandooris & rotis along with the hottest greeted with a free glass of Prosecco. 79 Hai Ba Trung, D1 3521 0008 curries, dovas, and vada from the southern Diners sit in a cozy setting upstairs 3823 8998 or on the ground floor for people region. www.pomodoro-vietnam.com www.ramen.vn watching. Big groups should book in 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 advance. 8223 0173 Sarpino’s Pizzeria Dragon Steak 11 Dong Du, D1 www.ganeshindianrestaurant.com 3822 3329 A striking Japanese restaurant tucked [email protected] Sarpino’s Pizzeria provides authentic Indus Indian www. saigonrestaurant Italian pizzas made from gourmet away off Saigon's central street, Dragon group.com/ciao ingredients. steak specialises in thick wagayu cuts Indus Indian is a relatively new Indian 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 and tenderloin that could well have restaurant in Saigon providing all the www.sarpinos.vn been cut off a beast the size of a dragon. classic Indian favorites. Operated by Good Morning Vietnam They're so enormous that the restaurant a dedicated husband/wife duo, this once ran a cheeky competition – guests restaurant specializes in Halal food. Italian restaurant with a unique menu japanese who finished one within half an hour 2G Thi Sach, D1 including traditional Italian dishes. The dined free. 3521 0324 restaurant is conveniently located in a Aka Taiyo 138 Ton That Dam, D1 beautiful old house in the heart of Saigon, 3821 0288 Mumtaz well integrated in the local architecture. Aka Taiyo serves traditional and exotic www.steak.vn 197 De Tham, D1 Japanese cuisine with an extensive menu With bona-fide Indian owners and chefs, 3837 1894 featuring more than 200 dishes. Also Ebisu authenticity at Mumtaz is guaranteed. www.thegoodmorningvietnam.com stocks a surprisingly comprehensive While the service and setting is relatively range of Japanese alcoholic beverages. Ebisu serves neither sushi nor sashimi – basic, the food is amongst the best of its La Hostaria 74B Hai Ba Trung, D1 instead, the menu focuses on a range of type in the city in terms of taste alone. The 3824 4295 wholesome charcoal-grilled meals and brand has a second branch in Designed with an intimate atmosphere www.akataiyo.com on thick, white Japanese udon noodles –

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 50 made from imported udon powder from fusion fresh Japanese seafood cuisine. Mus Mus and small rooms, floor-level Japanese Australia – and presenting an overall It's a vibrant venue with its manga murals, dining on tatami mats, private areas, and rustic cuisine with a variety of good sakes. carp lanterns, giant samurai warrior, and Customers choose a total of twelve the eponymous large sushi bar on the 35bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 large aquarium – and in the evening it ingredients from the selection on offer, ground level. 3822 6971 becomes a respectable upmarket bar. For which are then added to a bowl of boiling 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 [email protected] a quirky beverage there, try a sake served broth on the tabletop. Flavours are 3823 8042 ebisu-vn.asia in a bamboo tube. essentially Japanese seafood. www.sushibar-vn.com 45 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 117 Vo Van Tan, D3 Sushi Dining Aoi Fuji Restaurant 3822 2351 3930 9185

kabuto.com.vn [email protected] Sushi Dining Aoi is one such restaurant, The cuisine is exceptional – fresh seafood www.musmus.net and vegetables flown in direct from Japan K Cafe where the whole atmosphere of the place evokes the best of the culture. With its and Dalat. A preferred venue for those Osaka Ramen typical Japanese-style decor – the smooth staying at the hotel, and worth trying if K Cafe Sushi is a large Japanese earthen tones of the wooden furniture and you're living local. restaurant; an ideal place to gather for a Traditional Japanese noodle restaurant Ground Floor, Nikko Hotel Saigon surrounds, the warmth and privacy of the business lunch or for a social dinner. offering traditional Ramen dishes as well VIP rooms – it's possible to believe you're 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 74A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 as Japanese/Vietnamese fusion cuisine. in a more elegant realm. 3830 8123 38245355 67 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D3 Hanayuki www.yakatabune-saigon.com 10am - 10pm 3930 0039 11am - 2pm, 5pm - 11pm www.sushidiningaoi.com Sakura Vietnamese-Japanese A Japanese-style restaurant on Ton Kokekokko Pandora Restaurant Sushi World Duc Thang with a sushi bar on the ground floor and a fine mezzanine Kokekokko is a combination of modern Cozy, friendly and modern Japanese A four-storey restaurant in a Japanese- level, Hanayuki serves more than 200 style fast food with the essence of ancient restaurant near all of the attractions in the style, the first and second floors feature exquisite Japanese dishes with more Japanese cuisine. The restaurant space is city center. an open sushi bar, while the upper levels than 30 kinds of sushi and sashimi. designed with high quality materials and 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 contain 15 VIP rooms decorated in a Private, traditional Japanese VIP rooms features youthful and modern dynamic 6291 1036 traditional Japanese style with tatami are available on the top level. subtleties. With prices under VND100,00 sakurasaku.vn matting. 21C Ton Duc Thang, D1 11am - 2pm; 5pm - 11pm Kokekoko is a must see. 28 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 3824 2754 4th Floor Pandora, 1/1 Truong Chinh, Tan Phu 3911 0147 Sumo BBQ www.sushiworld.com.vn 3849 6840 Inaho Restaurant www.kokekokko.com.vn Sumo BBQ is a rising star amongst Tokyo Deli This unique venue specializes in La Fenetre Soleil Japanese venues in Saigon, offering traditional sushi & sashimi as well as hot smokeless table BBQ and a unique Tokyo Deli’s menu consists of a wide pot dishes. Couples can retreat to the buffet/a la carte concept: get whatever range of distinctive and delicious meals, upstairs area; it’s far more private than the Glass tables with mosaic tiles and wooden you want from the menu, as much as prepared by specialists to create pure downstairs bar. floors set off large comfy sofas and high you like. Free birthday beer specials on Japanese flavor. The menu is always 4 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 ceilings, and diners can look out over the arrangement. being changed and improved. 3829 0326 busy Ly Tu Trong though 11 large French 300 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh 240 Le Thanh Ton, D1 11am - 2pm, 5.30pm - 10pm windows. Its sense of personality attracts 3991 4757 5404 2244 artistically-inclined expats to return often, sumobbq.com.vn tokyodeli.com.vn Kabuto Tokyo and many of these profess it as their 10.30am - 10.30pm 11am - 11pm favourite hangout in Saigon. Cuisine is One of the more exuberant Japanese Japanese-Vietnamese fusion. Sushi Bar Uraetei BBQ Restaurant venues in this city, Kabuto Tokyo on Mac 44 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Thi Buoi specialises in both traditional and 3824 5994 There are plenty of dining spaces – large Uraetai serves yakiniku grill, a variant

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51 of the popular Korean dish bulgogi. Mr. BBQ – Korean Chicken & Hof El Gaucho Oi’s Pick Koh Thai The restaurant itself is attractively Serves great Argentinean steaks, done, with a nod to feng shui in its This unusual Korean import famous for hamburgers and more. A great place Stunning Thai-chic decor and unique selective placement of ponds and rocky extraordinarily spicy chicken is an odd to entertain clients or friends from Siam cuisine make Koh Thai one pathways outside. phenomenon on the HCMC culinary overseas. With outlets in Hanoi and of Saigon’s most authentic and 6673 9373 landscape, serving up a version of Bangkok too. memorable Thai restaurants. Located in the Intercontinental complex, Koh KFC that's actually painful. Lovers of 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Vicki’s Teppanyaki & BBQ Thai serves Asian inspired cocktails spicy food rejoice. The restaurant itself 38251879 in a trendy lounge environment with www.elgaucho.asia It provides a fusion of Asian cuisines is clean and modern in design, and chill music. with dishes from Japan, Singapore, and there are another 50 Korean dishes New York Steakhouse 1st floor, 39 Le Duan, D1 Vietnam. Their menu is interesting and on offer beyond the signature dish, 3823 4423

diverse, with many delectable seafood including some tasty bibimbap mixed 091 233 9138 While situated in a fairly laid-back area, options. rice dishes. www.kohthai.com.vn New York Steakhouse is definitely in the 42 Le Anh Xuan, D1 20 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 11am - 10pm Daily upmarket category and serves exclusive 3823 3232 3823 9000 American imported beef dishes, with a vickis.com.vn 9am-11pm Lac Thai 10.30am - 3pm; 5pm - 10pm whole range of steaks from rib eye, New Seoul House York strip steak, and tenderloin being Lac Thai is a large, three-floor restaurant Yoshino popular options. offering a wide range of Thai cuisine with signature dishes like Pad Thai, Tom Seoul House is a well-known two-story 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Yum Koong, Chicken and many The decor is straight out of the set of Korean restaurant with a simple, cozy 3823 7373 Shogun, with black wood, tatami mats, [email protected] others. atmosphere. Its menu contains Korean 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 stencilled cherry blossoms and all www.steakhouse.com.vn favorites like Banchan, hotpots, grilled 3823 7506 the trappings of Japanese exoticism meat, clay pot mixed rice, and kim chi Pho 99 Oi’s Pick 9am - 9pm – tastefully done. While Ho Chi Minh tofu soup. City is certainly not short of fine 33 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Not a traditional steakhouse per se, but Mai Thai Japanese eateries, this one is particularly 3829 4297 Pho 99 is known for its excellent filet impressive. Mai Thai is a Thai restaurant offering an 7am - 10pm mignon steaks made out of Cu Chi beef. 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 extensive menu with many Thai favorites. 3823 3333 Also serves great pho. This two-storey restaurant features steakhouses 139 Nguyen Trai, D1 traditional decorations and friendly Yuki 3925 2791 service. 6am - 2.30am 13 Ton That Thiep, D1 Yukie is a popular Japanese restaurant 3821 2920 located in the backpacker area of Samba Brazilian Steakhouse 11am - 2pm, 5pm - 10pm District 1. Offering authentic Japanese cuisine at affordable prices. This is certainly Saigon's most visible and Malee Thai 99 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D1 colourful restaurant serving the popular 3824 2754 Brazilian buffet style, where enormous A cute, central Thai venue decked 10am - 2pm; 4pm - 10pm skewers of meat are circulated around out in royal purple decor, Malee is an the tables for diners to enjoy as much of intimate restaurant serving a wide range korean as they can. of consistently tasty dishes, although Au Lac do Brazil 10C Thai Van Lung, D1 without the full effect of Thai cuisine’s signature burn. 3822 0079 Dae Jang Gum Serving Saigon www.samba.vnnhahang.com 37 Dong Du, D1 All the theatrics of a traditional Korean for more than 3829 3029 experience are part of the service at Dae 10 years, Au Lac Wild Horse Salon 11am - 2pm; 5pm - 11pm Jang Gum, named after an historic figure, do Brazil is the very first authentic but more pertinently after a wildly popular Brazilian Churrascaria in Vietnam, Spice Cowboy-themed western steakhouse Korean drama focusing on her life – bringing a new dining concept - an with an impressive exterior on trendy photos from the series appear throughout “All you can eat” Brazilian style BBQ Spice Thai restaurant has been a favorite Thai Van Lung, Wild Horse serves high- among the locals in Saigon since 2003. the venue. From waitresses in hanboks where meat is brought to your table quality Tex Mex/American cuisine with This multicultural eatery offers Thai food to vast plates of kimchi, this is the most on skewers by a passador and served to your heart’s content. They have enormous servings. & seafood in a décor fusing Oriental & authentic introduction to the cuisine an extensive selection of fine wines 8A/1D1 Thai Van Lung, D1 Mediterranean artifacts. available outside of District 7. as well. 3825 1901 27C Le Quy Don, D3 1st Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza Ho Chi Minh City 10am - 2pm; 4pm - 11.30pm 3930 7873 39 Le Duan, D1 Au Lac do Brazil I www.spicevn.com 3825 7974 238 Pasteur, D3 11am - 2pm; 5.30pm - 10pm www.daejanggum.vn (08) 3820 7157 thai Ha Noi Thai Express Hana Restaurant Au Lac do Brazil II Coriander 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Thai Express is the world’s largest Thai Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of (04) 3845 5224 A small Thai joint pleasingly decked restaurant chain. Enjoy fantastically D1. Hana has contemporary decor with For Banquet & Catering authentic Thai cuisine at reasonable Call or email out in natural materials with cork walls a private, open feel. Its broad menu prices in a relaxed, contemporary [email protected] and sedge-lined floors. The resulting includes both cooked and raw fish in atmosphere. 090 947 8698 ambience is nicely authentic, and the addition to traditional hot pot with fish 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 same goes for the cuisine – try the green eggs, rice and vegetables. 6299 1338 www.aulacdobrazil.com shrimp curry, the fried noodles in Thai 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.facebook.com/aulacdobrazil www.thaiexpress.com.vn 3829 5588 style, or the squid vermicelli for a taste 10.30am - 10pm 9am - 10pm of the Gulf of Thailand. The restaurant is Corso Steakhouse and Bar also known for its almost embarrassingly Kimsine cheap beer. vietnamese 16 Bui Vien, D1 Corso Steakhouse and Bar operates 3837 1311 3T Quan Nuong A place to enjoy Korean style dishes under an open kitchen concept, bringing in the city center. Kimsine’s menu is together an exciting menu of Asian and Golden Elephant With hanging oil lamps and wooden extensive; offering everything from instant European dishes with a focus on grilling. noodles to chicken’s feet. statues lining the stairs, this venue Guests can choose from a wide variety of 8A/5D2 Thai Van Lung, D1 A cozy and relaxing Thai style above the Temple Bar has a touch more wines and spirits. 7306 4045 restaurant, serving an extensive atmosphere than most of its kind, but 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 the otherwise simple décor with bamboo 094 467 2281 collection of Thai specialties including 3829 5368 tables and chairs are fitting enough. [email protected] noodles, curries, rice, stir-fries, soups, www.norfolkhotel.com.vn The broad barbecue grill menu features 10am - 3am and a good range of seafood. classics of its kind. 6pm - 11pm 34 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Top Floor, 29 Ton That Hiep, D1

t s Mi Han Quoc 3822 8554

a 3821 1631 Dragon Steak 11am - 10pm This franchise has gained popularity An Khue Quan Specializing in generous portions of in Ho Chi Minh City for having Jasmine Thai Wagyu cuts; they’re so enormous successfully adapted the spiciness Serving a well-selected series of dishes of Korean cuisine to the local that the restaurant runs a cheeky A quiet, candle-lit affair complete with from both northern and southern regions Vietnamese palate, serving perfectly competition - finish one within half an the ethereal tones of traditional music, of Vietnam in an area where international balanced noodle dishes. hour, and it’s free. guests can enjoy variations on dishes diners are likely to be in abundance – and 92 Ham Nghi, D1 138 Ton That Dam, D1 prepared in the Thai culinary tradition. therefore well attuned to the foreign 3914 1565 3821 0288 85 Quoc Huong, D2 palate. www.mihanquocvn.com www.steak.vn 35190038 92B Le Lai, D1 ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013 8am - 11pm 11am - late 5pm - 9.30pm Tue-Sun 3925 9583

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 52 An Vietnamese Bistro modern-styled venue. its tile floors and wooded wainscoting Pho 24 58/4 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 effects a comforting natural environment. An Restaurant offers exquisite dishes 3829 5243 4 Nguyen Thiep, D1 PHO24 is a popular Vietnamese from the North, Central, and South of www.nemnuongganh.com 3822 0496 noodle restaurant chain with Vietnam, served by well-trained waiters Gold Fish Luong Son 70 outlets across Vietnam and and waitresses dressed in traditional throughout Southeast Asia. Southern clothing. 71-73 Dong Khoi, D1 Gold Fish offers a slice of authentic Exotic beer garden style eatery famous for 71/5-6 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 3825 7505 Vietnam with a genuinely rural cuisine. its barbecue beef. Luong Son also serves 3825 8275 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 fear factor items such as scorpions, grubs, Quan Bui Authentic Vietnamese Banh Xeo 46A 3822 5229 ostrich meat and crickets. Cuisine www.goldfish.vn 31 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Leafy green roof garden, upmarket 3825 1330 restaurant with reasonable prices and a Although known for a wide range of Grillbar - Eatery & Cafe www.facebook.com/LuongSonQuan Vietnamese specialties, the local pancake wide menu of choices. Open style kitchen A new trendy kitchen and cozy restaurant advertises its cleanliness. Designer interior stuffed with herbs and prawns is its with the concept of taking traditional Nam Phat Restaurant tastiest dish. with spot lighted pictures and beautiful Vietnamese charcoal grilled street food cushions give an oriental luxurious 46A Dinh Cong Trang, D1 and serving it in a New York stylie cafe. A Vietnamese restaurant that specializes 3824 1110 feeling – augmented by dishes served on 122 Le Thanh Ton, D1 in hosting social events such as weddings earthenware crockery. 38227 901 and business conferences. Traditional 17a Ngo Van Nam, D1 Banh Xeo An La Ghien www.grillbar.com.vn is the specialty 3829 1515 with prices ranging from VND100,000 (deliveries: 3602 2241 or 091 400 8835) The fare on offer is traditional Vietnamese, - VND300,000. The setting is of an specialising in the Banh Xeo filled egg elegant banquet hall. Royal Revolving Restaurant pancake, a favourite with foreigners with 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 its light crispy shell and fragrant herbs and 3910 6488 The Royal Revolving Restaurant is a meats inside the pancake pocket. [email protected] unique restaurant experience. Experience 74 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 stunning views of the city while you spin 3833 0534 Marina Saigon around in the sky. The restaurant offers www.banhxeoanlaghien.com.vn/en more than 50 inspired dishes Barbecue Garden Marina Saigon is one of the leading and a bar that serves coffee and cocktails. seafood restaurants in Ho Chi Minh 3823 2232 City. This restaurant provides a The venue features all open-air dining Quan Bui - luxurious environment with French/ Saigon Vegan and the atmosphere is distinctly festival- Authentic Vietnamese fusion cuisine. like, relaxing, and casual, becoming Vietnamese 172 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Saigon Vegan is located in a casual and congenially boisterous in the evenings. 3930 2379 inviting space with high ceilings, dark The restaurant specializes in Western- Cuisine wood tables, and lots of natural light. Vietnamese fusion dishes such as beef Maxim’s Nam An Guests can choose from over 100 vegan with cheese, 5-spices beef, squid with Delicious mix of flavors superbly put together and served on earthenware dishes, all of which are either soy or satay sauce, and shrimp kebabs. Large and lavishly decorated, Maxim’s vegetable based. 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 pottery in a restaurant with a great Nam An restaurant serves Vietnamese atmosphere. This venue has the best 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 3823 3340 cuisine in style. The carved wooden value and most authentic Vietnamese 3834 4473 www.barbecuegarden.com booths, completed with silk curtains, food in town (definitely no MSG). Try are a romantic hideaway for couples or SH Garden restaurant the steamed fish, boneless chicken in small groups. Beefsteak Nam Son various sauces or homemade tofu with 13-15-17 Dong Khoi, D1 This local steak restaurant specialises in fine wines or great fruit Established in the 1930s, the Terrace Vietnamese-style iron-plate meat dishes smoothies. Be delighted Nghi Xuan restaurant is located at the corner of rather than the American steaks often by the service and two of the oldest boulevards of Saigon, popular with expats – but while these freshest ingredients. Nguyen Hue and Le Loi, where romantic two varieties have their differences, the 17a Ngo Van Nam, D1 Lost down one of the less noticeable memories of Saigon float around. This local version of the dish has a fresh, light 3829 1515 alleyways of the inner city, if you do restaurant offers a variety of delicious character and is served with some good, www.quanbui.vn happen to chance upon Nghi Xuan, traditional Vietnamese dishes. delicate Vietnamese sauces. the sheer grace of the venue will come 4th floor, 98 Nguyen Hue, D1 188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Highway 4 as something of a surprise. Decorated 6680 0188 3930 3917 as a high-class traditional Vietnamese shgarden.com.vn www.namsonsteak.com mansion, Nghi Xuan is perfectly fitting for The menu reflects the ambiance of the a venue serving the finest of Vietnam's Song Ngu north and wider Vietnam, although dishes Bo Ne Le Hong classical cuisine – the imperial dishes are carefully selected to meet a more of Hue. Service is courteous, fast, and There are eight different rooms capable of universal palate. quintessentially elegant. Bo Ne Le Hong is a popular Vietnamese seating a total of 350-400 guests, each 101 Vo Van Tan, D3 5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 restaurant specializing in beefsteak. It has warmly-lit with dark wooden furnishings. 3602 2069 3823 0699 a rich, diverse menu, and also offer fresh On a small stage, a traditional chamber www.highway4.com nghixuanrestaurant.com fruit juices. orchestra with ladies wearing classical Ao 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Hoa Tuc dai costumes perform Vietnamese music Nha Hang Ngon on genuine old instruments. 3990 5106 70 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Set in what used to be Saigon’s opium Famous restaurant serving easy 3832 5017 Bun Sai Gon refinery, Hoa Tuc serves up contemporary Vietnamese cuisine to foreigners Vietnamese cuisine in a Parisian, art-deco and tourists with more than 400 Temple Club This franchise positions itself firmly in atmosphere. traditional dishes. the local market with the slogan 'the bun 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 160 Pasteur, D1 Usually regarded as one of central noodles of the ' – 3825 1676 3827 7131 Saigon's most authentically Vietnamese indicating a concerted dedication to the www.hoatuc.com www.quananngon.com.vn authenticity of its noodle soup staples. venues, this historic and good-looking 8am - 10pm features classic Indochinese decor, 6276 2609 Hoang Yen broadly interpreted as a blend of the www.bunsaigon.com.vn A venue for those who are looking for Papaya Restaurant Oi’s Pick old French colonial style with pan- high-quality Vietnamese cuisine. Try Asian graces that appeal more to Asian Cha Ca La Vong some of the country’s delicacies in a A petite, clean, and brightly-coloured exoticism than reflect actual Vietnamese This venue only serves Cha Ca, a modern yet inviting atmosphere. The Vietnamese restaurant with simple décor styles. With antique furnishings and traditional Hanoian dish. Cha Ca is a salad eatery’s various clay pots are flavorful; serving a light, healthy, northern-style ceiling fans, the atmosphere is certainly made out of pieces of fish and spring some feature mam, a delicious fermented cuisine. There's no fuss in the layout pretty. onion stir-fried in a hotpot. fish paste. While the restaurant’s cuisine here – green walls with black & white 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 is light and healthy overall, those artworks, brown wooden furnishings, and 3829 9244 3915 3343 with a penchant for green veggies lanterns above every table make for a very templeclub.com.vn should definitely order one of Hoang pleasant atmosphere – and it's casual Cuc Gach Quan Yen’s assortment of edible ‘flowers’ – without being messy, and refined without Thanh Nien Restaurant especially the sautéed hoa thien ly. It is This Vietnamese venue serves traditional, any trace of pretentiousness. recommended to order a few dishes and country-style foods, a mixture of street 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh With its attractive home-style layout, pretty food dishes made with fine ingredients share them all. 6258 1508

garden for outdoor dining, and warm, t s

7-9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 a together with a selection of more [email protected] yellow-toned interior for the buffet, it's a 148 Hai Ba Trung, D1 contemporary options. www.chi-nghia.com charming venue for tourists and a familiar Parkson Hung Vuong, Third Floor, Hung 10 Dang Tat, D1 favourite for long-timers. It's intentionally 3848 0144 Vuong Plaza, An Duong Vuong, D5 Pho 2000 CR1- 12, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 decorated like a private home, walls Pho 2000’s Ben Thanh Market branch decorated with floral artworks, and the www.hoangyencuisine.com Ganh was famously visited by former US garden surrounded by bamboo. Lemongrass President Bill Clinton in 2000. The chain 11 Nguyen Van Chiem, D1 With green suspended lanterns, simple serves up variations on pho as well as 3822 5909 and elegant furnishings, all touched off noodle and rice dishes. www.vnnavi.com/restaurants/thanhnien with bamboo baskets of fruit, flowers, The vibe aims at a harmony between 4 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 and reed grass, the atmosphere is just modern styling and the Vietnamese 3822 2788 Tib Restaurant as smooth and well-defined as a more traditional arts, and the dining room with 6am - 10pm This fine Vietnamese Hue-style restaurant ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 53 looks almost like a temple, and it's mouthwatering steaks. Japas also offers a Parkview Restaurant considered one of the city's premier wide array of delectable dessert options. settings serving imperial cuisine. 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 This restaurant is best known locally for 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 3827 0931 its seafood buffet, with a wide variety of 3829 7242 alfrescosgroup.com international specialties freshly-prepared www.tibrestaurant.com.vn at the live cooking stations. Local and Bahdja imported seafood includes oysters and Tin Nghia prawns, molluscs and organic lobsters. A charming little venue serving vegetarian Algerian restaurant serving north 76 Le Lai, D1 cuisine. Its quaint appearance hides African delights such as couscous, 3822 8888 the fact that it was the first international tajines and desserts. Unique Mechoui www.saigon.newworldhotels.com vegetarian restaurant in Ho Chi Minh set dinner is a popular choice and City and an important center of the city’s perfect for groups (available with prior Pasha vegetarian culture. notice). 9 Tran Hung Dao, D1 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Serving Turkish and Mediterranean 3821 2538 093 787 2010 (French, Arabic, cuisine, the kitchen is headed by Chef English, Finnish) Ismet with over 30 years of experience in Vietnam House 0122 763 1261 (English, Russian, similar restaurants. Vietnamese) 25 Dong Du, D1 Vietnam House is a high quality Mon - Fri 11:30 - 2pm 6291 3677 restaurant specializing in both local Mon - Sat 6pm - 11pm www.pasha.com.vn Vietnamese and international cuisine. This restaurant is set in a restored French Shri Restaurant and Lounge colonial house offering stunning views of Black Cat Restaurant the street. Khoi Thom Visitors to Shri are regularly astonished to 93-95 Dong Khoi, D1 Originally envisioned as a fast food discover such an international-standard 3829 1623 Vietnamese sandwich place, Black Cat Khoi Thom - "fragrant smoke" in venue secreted away on top of a plain- www.vietnamhousesaigon.com Saigon now serves international food with English - is a unique venue, set in looking bank tower, serving a catalogue a focus on burgers, most famously its “Big a bright, colourful al fresco decor of exotic recipes, and while prices are as Cheese” featuring 500g of beef. inspired by renowned architect to be expected, the fare is an impressive (other) asian 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Ricardo Legoretta. A long way from collection of dishes guaranteed to suit 3829 2955 Mexico, Chef Alejandro Torres's the palate of Western diners as well as Lion City www.blackcatsaigon.com menu blends "Cocina pleasing those with an Asian culinary 7am - 11pm Potosina" and timeless background. This is a Singaporean franchise to Mexican classics. Rooftop, Level 23, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh watch with interest – since its humble Blu Bar and Grill 29 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 Khai, D3 beginnings in 2006 with the rather www.khoithom.com 3827 9631 more unpleasant name Singapore Blu Bar provides a wide range of Asian www.shri.vn Frog Porridge, it has risen in strength and Mediterranean specialties for to become the most prominent breakfast, lunch, and dinner along with La Habana Skewers representative of the cuisine in the city, many unique beverage options. and its growth has continued to be 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Offering authentic Spanish cuisine and An open-air kitchen at the front of the remarkable. 3744 4111 a wide choice of tapas, as well as Cuban restaurant and a small cigar lounge 45 Le Anh Xuan, D1 7am - 11pm cocktails, La Habana is a den of Cuban- upstairs set off the atmosphere and mark 3823 8371 Spanish inspired architecture located on this venue as one with a unique presence www.lioncityrestaurant.com Bobby Chinn’s Oi’s Pick inner-city Cao Ba Quat. in Saigon. The purely Mediterranean 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 cuisine is appropriately authentic. Long Monaco Oi’s Pick This is TV celebrity and experienced 3829 5180 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 international chef Bobby Chinn’s www.lahabana-saigon.com 38224798 Long Monaco operates throughout the showcase restaurant adjacent to www.skewers-restaurant.com city under various brand names – this Intercontinental Asiana Hotel in the Ly Club Subway outlet is a standalone restaurant in the Kumho Link. Stylish lounge environment

busy Etown office complex in Tan Binh offers fine dining with a separate lounge Often used as a venue for gatherings, district. You'll probably only visit if you're bar area. Extensive cocktail menu and Subway is now in Vietnam, offering networking meetings, and events where an its internationally-renowned range of working nearby or visiting on official wine list backed by artfully created air of wealth and sophistication is useful, Ly business, but you'll find the restaurant western dishes. Ideal venue for launch subs sandwiches and cookies. World Club is a sure bet for making an impression travelers can expect the same high serves some great Asian business functions - and possibly features the most on a date or business lunch. Built into a lunches. luxurious restaurant restrooms in HCMC. quality of ingredients regardless of traditional French villa with wide elliptical what nation they are visiting. Ground Floor, Etown 1 39 Le Duan, D1 arches, the atmosphere of naked opulence 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh 6291 7788 121 Ho Tung Mau, D1 persists throughout the property. 3914 4118 www.longmonaco.com.vn www.bobbychinn.com 143 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 The Burger Corner 3930 5588 Strata www.lyclub.vn western/international Tasty, fresh homemade burgers with a Margherita Located on the 50th floor of the Al Fresco’s range of ingredients aimed at satiating Bitexco tower, Strata offers a stunning both foreign and local palates. Menu dining experience with views over the For some, Margherita doubles as an Offering a mix of Tex-Mex, Italian, and includes local ‘rice burgers’ and prices are city and a dessert bar with coffee and unofficial expat rendezvous, partly a result Australian food along with cold local & well below those of international chains. tea. Popular with tourists and locals of its agreeable prices and sumptuous seeking a unique location for a special imported beers and a wine list featuring 43 Nguyen Hue, D1 Western-style pizzas and foods. occasion. Australia’s finest whites along with 3821 0094 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Level 50, Bitexco Financial Tower, affordable South American reds. www.theburgercorner.com.vn 3837 0760 2 Hai Trieu, D1 16 Nguyen Thi Nghia, D1 086 291 8750 3926 0036 The Elbow Room www.cirrussaigon.com www.alfrescosgroup.com Market 39 10am - 10pm 8.30am - 11pm The Elbow Room on Pasteur is an Market 39 showcases seven interactive American-style bistro with a long bar, live show kitchens, featuring a la carte all-day dining and an extensive buffet Warda Annam Gourmet exposed brickwork, white walls, and An upscale deli and grocery chain offering whirring ceiling fans – making for a selection served daily during breakfast, lunch and dinner Warda is a Middle-Eastern style bar and gourmet groceries, cheese, organic casual, contemporary space with an restaurant headed by a renowned Syrian products, gluten -free products, fruit and international vibe. More of a diner than a Ground floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon chef. Guests can enjoy authentic middle- vegetables, gourmet deli, wine and other restaurant, Elbow shoots at a cool, relaxed eastern cuisine indoors and outdoors beverages. All locations, in District 1, 2 atmosphere, pleasantly decorating its Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan 3520 9099 while enjoying an almond cigar or shisha. and 7, have a coffee lounge that serves warmly-lit walls with evocative black & 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 breakfast, lunch, drinks and early dinner. white photos and subtle lighting. www.intercontinental.com/saigon 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1. 3822 9391 52 Pasteur, D1 Mogambo Bar & Grill Xu Restaurant Lounge 41A Thao Dien street. D2. 3744 2630 3821 4327

SB2-1 My Khanh 4,Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 www.elbowroom.com.vn The venue is well-known for its pork Mogambo is a dark, African-styled 5412 3263 / 5412 3264 wantons, bun cha, seared beef crostinis, www.annam-gourmet.com Hog’s Breath Café restaurant with some the finest US & Tex- bo luc lac diced beef and 'Xu-style' Mex and exceptional burgers. chicken rice. Xu is an elegant venue that Au Parc An Australian family diner and bar concept. 50 Pasteur, D1 works as a restaurant or a high-class bar Renowned for quality steaks, seafood and 3825 1311 for the upper echelons. t s It's only fitting that this Mediterranean- other western fare served in an informal 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 a styled restored villa with its original tiles, environment. Smoke-free indoors. Pacharan - Tapas & Bodega 3824 8468 old window frames, plush cushions, and Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, www.xusaigon.com opium-themed art collection sits in one 2 Hai Trieu, D1 The city’s best-known Spanish restaurant of the most gorgeous streets of central 3915 6066 with a sports bar on the ground floor, Zoom Cafe Oi’s Pick Saigon. Au Parc is an unforgettable 090 381 8700 two floors of dining space, and an open venue with a décor that manages to www.hogsbreathcafe.com.vn rooftop deck for cocktails and live music. Zoom cafe serves Tex-Mex and simultaneously capture the grace of the Serving tapas, paella, and an extensive Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a old Colonial architecture and the mood Jaspas Wine & Grill Oi’s Pick Iberian wine list. Vespa tour service from within the café. of west-Asian exoticism that transfixed 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 169A Bui Vien, D1 Europe in the Romantic period. Jaspas Wine and Grill provides an extensive 090 724 2757 3920 3897 23 Han Thuyen, D1 wine list along with many “reinvented” [email protected] [email protected] ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013 3829 2772 Jaspas dishes, new creations, and 10am - late 7am - 2am daily

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 54 Travel & Leisure Image by DANIEL MOORE

55 DESTINATION: UNKNOWN The Nomadic Family The highs and lows of a family of five traveling for three years Text AND IMAGES by GABI KLAF

Traveling for most moderately affluent themselves. These rightfully coined 'outsider' volunteering in the community and hiking working families might be a perfectly families are redefining family world travel around Volcan Baru. Then at nine months, pleasant all-inclusive week in the Caribbean, as they sell their possessions and buy one- we were living with an indigenous tribe in a 10-day sojourn throughout Vietnam or way tickets to anywhere, create location- the jungles of Ecuador. In those seven weeks, perhaps a lovely two weeks in . For independent income and explore far-flung the kids attended Quechua/Spanish school, the more eccentric, it may even be a year- locales, eschewing suburban homesteads Kobi got dengue fever (for the second time), long sabbatical for which families plan and for overstuffed backpacks. Welcome to the and we washed our clothing, our bodies, invest in making their rat race get-away an nomadic family way of life. and our souls in the river, while living an experience they’ll never forget. And then, My name is Gabi and together with my unplugged life of zero productivity. Surely, there's us - a steadily growing population of husband Kobi and three children, we left our we would be ready to go home to our young families who want to travel forever. lovely sunlit, mountainside home in Israel familiar life in Israel? Not just yet. We are part of a slow but growing in March 2011 with one goal in mind – to movement of working-class parents who no travel indefinitely – though we did honestly Falling in Love longer find ‘bigger, better, and newer’ their question whether we'd maybe last three At 14 months, we were living in a tent on goals in life, a rippling handful of career months without killing each other. the beach of Huanchaco, Peru, and watching professionals who don't see the point of the Our plan was to start by taking an RV glorious sunsets in Lima, Peru's Malacon ladder they are climbing if they've lost touch through the Rocky Mountains. At six Park. We had local friends, playdates, and with their families, their health, their joy and months, we were living in Boquete, Panama, lots of nights of really great dancing after

56 Tips for Extended Family Travel

The Economics: While it may seem that long-term world traveling families must be very, very rich, we’re doing it and we are definitely not. Most months, our family of five spends significantly less than USD2,000, and some months, just half of that. For our year in Central and South America, we bought a 4x4 and sold it when we left. In Southeast Asia, buses and low cost carriers allow you to move around for very little money.

The longer you stay in one place, the cheaper you can negotiate long-term accommodation. A night or two in a luxury hotel often equals a month of rent at more modest digs. In Siem Reap, Cambodia, in exchange for working a bit for a guesthouse, we got a huge room with all the amenities for USD5 a night. Be flexible with your plans. Talk to the locals. Don't buy a pre-paid package. the kids were asleep. And so it continued as busy through life, and with them stripped Figure it out when you get there. we entered our second year of family life on away, suddenly finding ourselves naked, Long-term travel begins with a the road, and landed in Bangkok, Thailand. daring to figure out who we want to become mindset. We set very clear goals to Fast forward to year three, and we're still in next. It’s dancing to the rhythms of life pay off loans and save. We had to Southeast Asia and loving it. which are alternatingly light-filled, fun, and buck the mainstream thinking that It’s hard to remember when we fell in energy-explosive, but also sometimes dark making more money means that love with Asia. Was it Kanchanaburi's and miserable. It’s the rawness of being five we get to spend more, we deserve Erawan Waterfalls or that birthday party souls out there, holding on to each other, more, “bigger, better, faster and flatter.” Instead, we decided that off the River Kwai that made us learn to and facing the unknown with unilateral, making more money means we love sweltering Thailand? Or maybe our equalizing cluelessness. deserve to be free to save more, first glimpses into Buddhism and a culture This fall we’ll be hiking the Annapurna and then determine how we want to that reveres barefootedness? Perhaps it Circuit in Nepal and then registering the rule our own lives, free from endless was the lingering smile of the Cambodians, kids for six months in a Waldorf school in payments to support a lifestyle that will perpetually demand us to feed or just how lovely the Khmer language Goa, India. We’re looking forward to yoga, the insatiable consumer monster. sounded to us after living in Cambodia for meditation, and other passionate, meaningful eight months? It could’ve been Dalat’s crisp pursuits. We anticipate pausing our nomadic Family Relationships: Whenever coldness or the university students so eager wanders in the summer of 2014. We miss you hear stories that make family to talk to you in any given park in Ho Chi family and friends, our native tongue, and world travel look like a picture- perfect postcard, be wary. For better Minh City. Maybe it was swimming with not living out of a backpack. We think we but often for worse, we remain the whale sharks and sea turtles of Moalboal, may stay in our safe nest for two years same stubborn, slightly insane, but then again, we're pretty sure before settling down in , where the kids radically dysfunctional people we it was the marvelous Filipino street kids that can attend school, while we spend vacations were before we hit the road. Unlike made our own children love the Philippines biking throughout Europe. We’re really not back home where we could all with such passion. sure how things will be or where we’ll end conveniently escape from each other through school, jobs, and everyday After almost 30 months on the road, it's up next. On the one hand, we have plans, busyness, being on the road erases hard to quantify those moments that take ideas, and dreams and on the other, the the buffer and actually pushes it in our breath away and justify, again and again, wind, inspiration, and opportunity that will your face. Pet peeves escalate when why we wish to stay “The Nomadic Family.” inevitably combine to create our colorful, they surround you all day, selfish But we know it’s the people who help us, nomadic family reality. behaviors magnify, and dysfunctional dynamics become rawer when you guide us, and love us in every corner in the and the ones you love share the world. It's the random discussions with a Bio: Gabi Klaf blogs about her family’s ups same intimate space for, sometimes, street vendor or a fellow bus rider that ends and downs in their now third year of non- a bit too long. And after things up determining where home will be for the stop budget world travel. Hugely romantic, explode in your face, you discover next three months. It's the two hour lunches tantalizingly sweet, and hysterically funny, the raw, dusty, tearful, beautiful, and real blessing in each and every one and lingering talks and morning cuddles that Gabi Klaf represents a rare Rubik’s cube of of your family members. tell us this is what we want out of our family family world adventure. Follow her adventures life. It's deleting all those other obligations at www.thenomadicfamily.com and www. and identities that kept us conveniently gabiklaf.com

57 DESTINATION: Taiwan

A Bike and a Backpack Discovering Taiwan’s scenic east coast Text by Casey Siemasko Photos by Daniel Moore

It’s day three of our cycling jaunt in Hualien for a night, using it as their base to down the east coast of Taiwan. My knees explore the country’s number one attraction: are starting to ache as a result of peddling Taroko Gorge. We, too, were guilty of departing yesterday’s mountains. My bum is pleading Hualien prematurely, but with 80 kilometers for extra padding, relief from the unforgiving of cycling ahead, an early start to the day was bike seat below. My mind is admonishing me necessary. for committing to a multi-day bike trip with Our first day of cycling took us from no prior cycling experience. But my heart Hualien to Ruishui (a rustic hot springs town "Taiwanese are as is content, at peace, inspired by the world in the mountains) via Highway 11. It didn’t friendly as they around me. take long for us to discover why this is one of Mother Nature has been watching over us the Taiwan’s most popular cycling routes; almost come – cyclists past few days. Rather than Taiwan’s predictable immediately after leaving the city traffic behind, gray clouds and rain showers, we have been we found ourselves cruising past the Pacific and non-cyclists gifted with crisp, cool breezes and endless blue Ocean, urban sprawl nowhere in sight. Taiwan’s skies. It’s the kind of sky that merges seamlessly coastline is characteristically rocky and jagged alike consistently with the expansive ocean, inviting our gaze to with few sandy beaches. While this might stretch farther than is possible. Perhaps it is not be conducive to sunbathing, the dramatic go out of their way compensation for the sore bum. coastline is as picturesque as they come, ideal to Three days of persistent cycling has rewarded enjoy from the cycling lane. to make foreigners us with frequent opportunities to connect with Unfortunately the mountainous coastline the Earth, a welcome respite from the hours guarantees hills to traverse, and our first feel at home" spent in front of a computer on a daily basis. We morning was spent wearily hauling our bodies began our cycling trip in Hualien, the largest and belongings up the unpleasant inclines. city on the east coast of Taiwan. The vibe here Luckily we weren’t the only crazy souls is noticeably different from the west of Taiwan; determined to use the power of our legs to the traffic is slower, the morning markets less carry us. The more fit, experienced cyclists chaotic. The locals take double, even triple takes raced past, encouragingly calling out, “Jia at us on our bicycles. Most tourists only stay you!”—Chinese for “Let’s go!” Taiwanese are as

58 friendly as they come – cyclists and non-cyclists alike consistently go out of their way to make foreigners feel at home. Biking made the day pass quickly, and before long our journey steered us away from the ocean breezes and toward the cool, crisp air of the East Rift Valley. A long and narrow valley bordered by the Central Mountain Range (to the west) and the Coastal Mountain Range (to the east), the East Rift Valley is home to a variety of natural landscapes. Waterfalls, river terraces, hot springs and badlands are just a few of the sights to be seen. Although our arrival at the valley coincided with dusk, our second day of cycling would provide ample time to observe the change of scenery around us. Pedal to the Metal The next morning began pleasantly along a welcome flat road, better known as Route 193. The journey was now quieter, with only the verdant rice paddies and occasional village houses to keep us company. We found ourselves daydreaming, imagining what life would be like here among the rice farmers. It didn’t seem like such a difficult scenario, leaving everything behind in favor of a simple, grounded lifestyle. But then the moment was gone, and all too soon we had left the paddies and wistfulness behind. Little did we know that we were now approaching the most challenging – and rewarding – segment of our journey. Out of the rice paddies emerged grass- flanked mountains and colorful wild flowers, the stunning result of the East Rift Valley and humid weather that perpetuates it, and a reminder of how truly diverse Taiwan’s landscape is, so much more than the urban skyscrapers of Taipei that most people think of. Coinciding with the lush backdrop was the steepest climb of the trip thus far. The hills from yesterday were merely speed bumps compared to this fiend. We mentally prepared ourselves for the climb by internalizing our yogi mantras, but it didn’t do much to combat the sweat that poured down us. Finally, finally, after reprimanding ourselves for not training adequately, we made it to the climb’s peak. With no time to say farewell to the mountain range that embraced us, we speed on into the darkness of an awaiting tunnel. Out of the darkness brought the highlight of our cycling trip: a bird’s eye view and striking snapshot of the far-reaching Pacific Ocean colliding with the adjacent mountain ranges – plus twenty minutes of downhill coasting to enjoy it. Taiwan’s wide-ranging landscapes effortlessly came together, seemingly stretching out to eternity. Suddenly the uphill climbs were but a minor fee for the prize they awarded. As we near Taitung on our third day of CYCLING TIPS cycling, I’m clearly exhausted, ready to trade in my bike for the power of something automated. Cycling is an amazing way to discover a new place. There’s no need to take or buy a bicycle. Giant Bike However, I’m also incredibly grateful. I’m It allows you to travel slowly but efficiently while Shops has a flexible, multi-day bike rental program. Pick internalizing the surrounding scenes. It’s eco-friendly, up your bicycle at the Giant Bike Shop in Hualien and grateful for the ability to power my body over locals love to cheer you on, and you’re forced to travel return it to the Giant Bike Shop in Taitung. Three days 200 kilometers. I’m grateful to live on such a light. There are numerous ways to cycle the east costs USD35; each additional day is USD7. beautiful island of contrasts. I’m grateful to coast of Taiwan, boasting what is perhaps the most experience the harmony of the world – sore stunning scenery in all of Taiwan. In our opinion, the When packing, be sure to take biker shorts (the spandex bum and all. best route is to begin in Hualien. Follow Highway 11 might not be sexy, but the padding is worth it) and a until you reach Road #64 to Ruishui. From Ruishui, tire patch kit (there are quite a few areas from Hualien take Route 193 until it merges with Highway 9. You’ll to Taitung where towns are few and far between). Bio: Casey and Dan Siemasko are two lovebirds soon reach a junction for Highway 30 (after the Other than that, you won’t need much. Taiwan has a slowly and indefinitely traveling the world. ominous climb and tunnel). Follow the signs for renowned cycling infrastructure with a cycling path that They share practical travel tips, top-notch travel Highway 11 once more; it will lead you to Taitung, your circumnavigates the island. 7-11s and cycling rest stops photography and inspiring travel tales at www. destination. It is easy to follow the road signs, but frequent the east coast route should you need to stock acruisingcouple.com. They’re also the authors should you become lost, locals can help you find your up on supplies. If you are physically active, you’ll have way once more. The total route is 210 kilometers. no problem completing the three-day cycling itinerary. of 101 Tips to Living in Taiwan, a free ebook available on their blog.

59 LIFE'S A TRIP TRAVEL Column

Beat the system: hotels, cell phones, car rentals, cruises, Airports, review sites, loyalty programs, trains, and more

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< how to be the IMAGE BY N a m Qu an IMAGE Having visited nearly 60 countries as a travel writer World’s and award-winning photographer, James Pham blogs about his adventures at FlyIcarusFly.com

Beware the Credit Card Scam SMARTEST Beware of dynamic currency conversion (DCC), a practice that can allow an unscrupulous merchant to skim a little off traveler the top of your purchase, at your expense. (and Save Time, Money, & Hassle) Here's how it works: If you're paying <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< by credit card overseas, a merchant will sometimes ask if you want to make the christopher elliott purchase in dollars, "for your convenience." NatioNal GeoGraphic travel expert If you agree, your money is converted from the native currency into greenbacks and sent to your credit card, but at an awful exchange rate. (Bizarrely, you may still have to pay your credit card a fee for a foreign transaction — so you basically convert the Travel Warnings money twice.) How to be the world’s smartest traveler Keeping Your Money Safe While Traveling Many travelers swear by a money belt, a In almost 30 years of international travel, nothing like what was advertised or avoiding fabric strap for holding your passport and I've really only been in trouble twice. Once phone cards that only give you 40 percent of cash. There are variations of this solution, was during a trip to Phnom Penh in the mid- what customers thought they were buying including socks and neckwear with pouches 90s when it was something akin to the Wild to over-the-top snafus like a flyer wanting for storing valuables, but they're not the West. A group of us were coming back from compensation for a USD4,000 fiberglass most elegant solution. Retrieving something dinner at barely 9pm. As the last entered the fish lost in checked luggage and a bridezilla from them means partially disrobing, which gate, two hooligans zipped up from behind who spent three days of her honeymoon is a hassle, and thieves know to look for on a motorbike and pulled out guns. We were sobbing over rusted bathroom fixtures and hidden pouches on tourists. However, a belt the victims of a home invasion. Thankfully, dirty glasses. (Disclosure: I'm also a volunteer is better than nothing. Another option, one no one was hurt that night, just a few dollars editor for Chris' columns on his own site as favored by security experts, is the dummy lighter. Another time, I was traveling with well as in publications like The Washington wallet or pocketbook - a decoy containing friends to a country normally friendly to US Post and USA Today.) a small amount of cash and IDs. If you're citizens. It just so happened that for the Pope's In early 2014, Chris is coming out with ever asked to hand over your valuables, give visit that month, they temporarily tightened another book, How to Be The World's Smartest the robber the bogus wallet. It's better than immigration (something the embassy didn't Traveler, and he's sharing with Oi readers taking off your clothes, and handing over even know about when I checked prior to some of his best advice. your money belt. buying the tickets) and I flew all the way there just to immediately get back on the On Cheap Airfares The "Menu Trap" same plane while my Canadian friends waved Your airfare probably represents no more Many restaurants offer at least two menus: good-bye. (A few months later, I was able to than a third of your trip expenses. You'll save One for lunch, the other for dinner. Pay re-do the trip.) yourself lots of time and misery by taking a attention to the entrees on each one; they're All that said, I feel pretty fortunate to have deep breath and following this advice: If you often identical. What's different? The price, avoided any serious problems while traveling. see an airfare you can afford, book it now, usually. Just like movie theater tickets, Part of it is that I'm ultra-vigilant when I'm and don't look back. You might be able to you're paying more because of the time of in a new environment. I don't often check find a less expensive fare, but I can practically day. (To be fair, some restaurants do offer maps out in the open, I dress conservatively guarantee that you'll waste hours trying to larger portions for dinner.) To avoid this pm and I read up on the destination before I go, find it - hours that could be better spent doing premium, plan your "out" meal for lunch, including checking out forums (which provide something more productive. and have a more modest dinner you prepare the most up-to-date information) and blogs. Airlines have spent a small fortune on in your room, or buy in a grocery store. Another thing I do is learn from others' yield management technology, but foiling it I personally use all of these tips when mistakes so I don't have to repeat them. I by subscribing to every fare alert newsletter, traveling, saving myself from potentially keep up with consumer advocate sites, my reading every airfare blog, and using every expensive mistakes. Travel favorite being Chris Elliott's(www.elliott. tool at your disposal in order to save USD10 wise! org) hugely popular blog where he sheds on your next flight is a meaningless victory. Chris' book is available for light on common problems like checking Ask yourself: Is your time really worth only a pre-order on Amazon or by into a pre-booked hotel only to find that it's few dollars an hour? Probably not. scanning this code.

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61 The List

Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly comprehensive Travel & Leisure insider's guide for foreign residents - website launching 2013 Qantas Airways Minh City, but culturally part of deep Graham Greene’s The Quiet American airlines 186 - 188 Le Thanh Ton, D1 suburban Saigon. was written in room 214. 3910 5373 353/28, Pham Ngu Lao, D 1 132-134 Dong Khoi, D 1 Air China 39208717 38299201 7th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Qatar www.continentalsaigon.com Hue, D1 Suite 8, GF, Petro Vietnam Tower Ken Hotel 3823 3888 1-5 Le Duan St., room 4, Floor 8, AB tower, Kimdo Royal City Hotel www.airchina.com Dist.1, HCMC A surprisingly well-designed hotel, this 84 8 38273888 budget establishment looks anything Nestled in amongst the commercial Air France [email protected] but from within, although the location in buildings at the top of District One’s 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Working hours: Mon-Fri: 8-17, Sat: 8:30am a side alley off CMT8 is quite deceiving. central business strip, the posh-looking 3829 0981 - 12:30pm 285/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D 10 Kimdo is right in the heart of the [email protected] Hanoi phone No: 04 39336767 0906699371 administrative, business, shopping, and www.airfrance.com.vn entertainment district. Singapore Airlines Little Saigon Boutique Hotel 133 Nguyen Hue, D 1 Asiana Airlines 29 Le Duan, D1 38225914 39 Le Duan, D1 3823 1588 A small, value-for-money boutique www.kimdohotel.com 3822 2622 www.singaporeair.com hotel with 18 air-conditioned, non- smoking rooms, Little Saigon Boutique Liberty Central Hotel www.ea.flyasiana.com Thai Hotel is an easy walk to Ben Thanh Air Asia 29 Le Duan Blvd, D 1 Market and other D1 sights. Hidden Liberty Central has a very prominent Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam away in a quiet back alley right in the brand and is a particularly stylish, eye- No official office in Vietnam Phone: (84-8) 3822 3365 central area. catching property right in the centre of www.airasia.com E-mail: reservationsgn@thaiairways. 36 Bis/2 Le Loi, D 1 the tourist district. Address of sales office: Noibai Airport, com.vn 35218462 179 Le Thanh Ton, D 1 Terminal 1, International Departure Hall, Monday – Friday: 08:00 – 16:30 38239269 3rd Floor, Ha Noi (excluding holidays) THREE STAR www.libertycentralhotel.com Website of agent: www.airasia.biz.vn Saturday – Sunday: Closed Phone: 04.37478953 A&EM Hotel - 8A Thai Van Lung Norfolk Hotel 95G - Ly Nam De - Phuong Cua Dong - Turkish Quan Hoan Kiem - Ha Noi Sales office in Vietnam Local accommodation chain that aims Chic, warm exterior with boutique Tel: (04).37478953 76 Le Lai St., room 4, Floor 8, AB tower, at the classy mid-level market; still charms within, this property is an ideal Cathay Pacific Airlines Dist. 1, HCMC budget, but with a touch of dignity escape for business travellers from the 84 8 39360360 about it. plasticity of chain hotels. R502, 5th floor, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh [email protected] 8A/1D2 Thai Van Lung, D 1 117 Le Thanh Ton, D 1 Khai, Ward 6, D3 Working hours: Weekdays: 8am-12pm/ 38224495 38293415 3822 3203 13-17; Sat: 8-12, Sun: closed www.norfolkhotel.com.vn sgn#[email protected] Blue Diamond Hotel www.cathaypacific.com United Airlines Novotel Saigon Centre Unit 708, 7th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 A cut above the multiple nearby 2-star China Southern Nguyen Hue, D1 properties, this hotel has been officially One of HCMC’s newest hotels, Novotel 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 3823 4755 recognized for its quality décor and is located on busy Hai Ba Trung St, just 3829 6800 www.united.com service, including high accolades in within walking distance of downtown [email protected] international publications. attractions. It’s everything you’d expect www.csair.com Vietnam Airlines 48-50 Thu Khoa Huan, D 1 from the international brand with 16F Sunwah Tower , 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 38236167 24-seven guest services and a broad Emirates 3832 0320 dining offer. 15 Nguyen Hue, 14th Floor, Dist.1, HCMC www.vietnamairlines.com.vn Bong Sen Hotel 167 Hai Ba Trung, D 1 Email: [email protected] Vietjet 38224866 Phone: 08 39113099 Located in the heart of D 1, The www.novotel.com www.emirates.com/vn CT Plaza Building 8th Floor, 60 Truong Son Bong Sen Hotel offers luxurious St., Tan Binh Dist., HCMC accommodation for guests who wish to Oscar Saigon Hotel 84 8 35471866 / Hotline: 1900 1886 Etihad relax or get a little work done. www.vietjetair.com etihadairways.com 117-123 Dong Khoi, D 1 French colonial hotel in District 1 [email protected] 38291516 offering stunning panoramic views and EVA Airlines www.bongsenhotel.com 4 star amenities. 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 hotels 68A Nguyen Hue, D 1 3822 4488 Catina Saigon www.oscar-saigonhotel.com www.evaair.com HO CHI MINH CITY TWO STAR Hotel Catina Saigon provides 3 star Palace Hotel Saigon JAL Japan Airlines accommodation in large, boutique 4F Hotel Nikko Saigon, 235 Nguyen Van Bali Hotel rooms that include free, high-speed One of the tidier properties of its class Cu, Nguyen Cu Trinh, D 1 internet access and city views. within the vicinity, with 144 deluxe guest 3830 6231 Ideally-located for attendees to 109 Dong Khoi, D 1 rooms of contemporary design well- Jetstar any exhibitions held at the Saigon 38296296 equipped with modern facilities. Exhibition and Convention Centre, Bali 56-66 Nguyen Hue, D 1 112 Hong Ha, Ward 2, Tan Binh Dist., HCMC Boutique is flash and modern in style - Tan Hai Long Hotel & Spa- Nguyen An www.palacesaigon.com Tel. 08 38450092 with a little touch of the plush thrown in Ninh [email protected] for good measure. Park Royal Saigon Hotel www.jetstar.com 39 - 41 Hung Phuoc Villas, D 7 The Tan Hai Long Hotel and Spa offers 54104747 award winning 3 star service and Park Royal Saigon Hotel is an ideally Korean Air stunning views of Ben Thanh Market placed conference hotel which caters Unit 909, Floor 9, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Calmette Hotel and downtown Saigon. 3 star Hotel and to all MICE needs. The hotel offers a Duan, D1 spa located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh wide array of banquet services and can 3824 2878 Charming hotel on one of the most city with 160 rooms and suites, also accommodate 30 to 300 guests. www.korean-air.vn attractively-named streets in the city, providing professional spa services by 309B-311 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh

although slightly out-of-the-way. skillful and experienced staff www.parkroyalhotels.com t s a Lufthansa Quality, elegant furnishings and modern 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, D 1 14th Floor, Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen amenities. 38272738 Thao Dien Boutique Hotel Hue, D1 151 Calmette, D 1 3829 8529 39144951 FOUR STAR Set in a secluded, verdant garden [email protected] occupying 1.2 hectares along the Saigon www.lufthansa.com Cat Huy Hotel Hotel Continental Saigon River, Thao Dien village is a tropical hideaway that’s just 20 minutes from Malaysia Airlines Cat Huy is the best-kept secret of One of Saigon’s oldest hotels, most the city centre. 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 the backpacker district, located in a graceful colonial properties, and historic 195 -197 Nguyen Van Huong, D 2 3829 2529 peaceful and very local-looking alley places to stay, it is perhaps most 37442222

www.malaysiaairlines.com close to the downtown area of Ho Chi famous as the location where much of www.thaodienvillage.com ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013

62 FIVE STAR accommodation jewels, this lavish hotel area. Con Dao has been built with the Life Resort Danang is designed to make the maximum very lightest ecological footprint, with Caravelle Hotel impression of austere Japanese-style villas set up along a mile of sandy Sitting on the Bac My An beachfront class from the lobby upwards. This is beach, sheltered by the green forested only 3km from downtown Danang, Part of the city’s modern history since one of the most luxurious hotels in hills behind and with stunning vistas and 30km from Hoi An. A pair of four- 1959, few properties in Saigon are quite HCMC, with classic, precise and elegant of the deep blue sea and the curve of storey hotel blocks house most of the decor. as iconic. A major center for foreign the bay. resort's rooms, with villas flanking one correspondents during the war, it has 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D 1 Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao, Con Son side of a long pool corridor splicing emerged as a plush and vibrant luxury 39257777 06 4383 1222 the middle of the resort. Its proximity hotel in the present era. www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn to three UNESCO World Heritage sites Caravelle Hotel is one of the city’s DALAT classiest icons and represents a true Park Hyatt Saigon as well as the former colonial French hill stations at Bach Ma and Ba Na slice of Saigon’s history while remaining Ana Mandara Villas Dalat one of its most luxurious places to stay. Without a doubt the city’s most make this ideally placed for incentive 19 Lam Son Square, D 1 excursions. luxurious hotel, Park Hyatt Saigon Ana Mandara Villas Dalat comprises 38234999 Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang features French colonial inspired seventeen restored French-style villas www.caravellehotel.com 051 1395 8888 rooms, two award-winning restaurants, from the 1920's and 1930's, preserving an outdoor pool and a stylish the original design, décor and charm, is Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City contemporary bar. The exterior is the HALONG BAY and set in the cool climate of the rural result of meticulous research into the highlands of . Striking An international hotel located where the colonial architecture of the region. Novotel Halong Bay views of the surrounding town and borders of the city’s four main districts 2 Lam Son Square, D 1 countryside abound from all areas of meet. The city’s major commercial and 38241234 A glimpse into contemporary Vietnam entertainment area is only an 8-minute www.saigon.park.hyatt.com the gently sloping hillside property. with echoes of the country’s intricate drive away. Le Lai, Phuong 5, Dalat past through its elegant interior décor. 242 Tran Binh Trong, D 5 Rex Hotel Saigon 06 3355 5888 Sturdy polished stone, glass and 38397777 marble stand against the delicate www.equatorial.com/hcm Rex Hotel has consistently won awards Sofitel Dalat Palace Asian textures of silk, wickerwork and for being one of the best hotels in carved wood. With sweeping windows InterContinental Asiana Saigon Asia. Impeccable dining options, great Hotel Sofitel Dalat Palace is one of the and large mirrors, the hotel captures Oi’s Pick location, and 5 star amenities make this most beautiful and amongst the few panoramic views of Halong Bay and its Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh recently refurbished hotel a preferred remaining historical hotels in Southeast spectacular seascapes at every turn. City, the InterContinental Asiana destination for travellers with generous Asia. Built in 1922 and meticulously Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long Saigon is dedicated to providing budgets. restored in 1995 to its original grandeur, City local, authentic, and enriching travel the Sofitel Dalat Palace offers experiences. Decorated in tasteful 141, Nguyen Hue, Ben Nghe, D 1 03 3384 8108 individualized service in the finest oriental flair, the hotel is dedicated to 38292185 [email protected] tradition of Vietnamese hospitality. representing the charms of Asia and www.rexhotelvietnam.com evokes the mystique of this beautiful 12 Tran Phu, Dalat TUAN CHAU RESORT continent and its cultures. Right next to Saigon Domaine Luxury Residences 06 3382 5444 Saigon’s key landmarks, this hotel is Oi’s Pick [email protected] Tuan Chau Resort is constructed in the ideally placed for high-class travellers High-class getaway hotel located style of classical French and modern and groups seeking a high standard of out of the city centre on exotic Thanh DANANG Vietnamese architecture. This is the accommodation. Full MICE areas and Da Island, allowing guests to escape ideal place to find white sands, blue facilities are on-site. from the chaos of the city life while Furama Resort Danang ocean, and the rejuvenative energy of Corner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 remaining close to the action. the Vietnamese tropical sun. 3520 9999 More hotel than apartment complex, The Furama Resort enjoys a stunning Tuan Chau Island, Ha Long City [email protected] The Domaine’s private residences are beachfront location on one of 03 3384 2999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon classic and luxurious, making the most Vietnam’s finest beaches, fringed by of the natural surroundings. natural pines and coconut palms. Two HANOI Legend Hotel 1057 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh four-storey wings overlook the ocean 35561145 on one side and a freshwater swimming Hilton Hanoi Opera Classic hotel offering 5 star amenities www.saigondomaine.com lagoon and manicured tropical gardens along with a scenic view of the Saigon on the others. This landmark of Hanoi was inspired Sheraton Saigon Hotel And Towers River, and providing a unique culinary Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang by the famous Opera House located experience with many options for fine 051 1384 7333 nearby. A hotel of great beauty and dining. Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh luxury, the Hilton stands in the city’s 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D 1 City vibrant business and entertainment Fusion Maia fashionable and elegant French 38233333 district, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers Quarter, and is within close range of www.legendsaigon.com is a 5 star haven of convenience, Incorporating the spirit of our time, connecting guests with colleagues and the charming Old Quarter and bustling Fusion Maia Danang is a unique fusion Majestic Saigon friends. Business District. of resort and spa where spa treatments 88 Dong Khoi, D 1 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi One of HCMC’s oldest and most 38272828 are inclusive and a part of daily living in 04 3933 0500 characteristic hotels, the Majestic on [email protected] this beach resort. It is the first all-pool the Saigon River with its grand French villa- style resort in the destination Intercontinental Westlake architecture is just a few steps away Sofitel Saigon Plaza Hotel and offers 87 pool suites, spa villas, from Saigon’s premiere attractions. and beach villas each with modern, Superbly situated on the serene waters 01 Dong Khoi, D 1 The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is located open-plan living and private courtyard of Hanoi’s West Lake and adjacent 38295517 in the city center, in the heart of the with swimming pool. Customize-your- to the famous 800-year-old Golden www.majesticsaigon.com.vn business district and close to Notre stay options and breakfast available Lotus (Kim Lien) Pagoda. Conveniently Dame Cathedral and Reunification at multiple locations are a few of the located and yet able to offer a retreat Moevenpick Hotel Saigon Palace. 275 elegant rooms and 11 suites, surprising offers in store. from the hustle and bustle of downtown a swimming pool, and a fitness center. Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Hanoi, the combination of spacious An international hotel chain with Swiss 17 Le Duan, D 1 051 1396 7999 luxurious accommodations, facilities, roots, this comfortable hotel caters to 38241555 both businesspeople and families with [email protected] fine dining options, a fitness centre, and www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-2077-sofitel- multiple conference rooms. saigon-plaza/index.shtml 253 Nguyen Van Troi Apartments, Phu Nhuan Windsor Plaza 38449222 [email protected] Located in the heritage area of old www.moevenpick-hotels.com Cholon, the Windsor offers authentic New World Saigon Hotel Vietnamese and Chinese hospitality Oi’s Pick with a mix of commercial, cultural, and One of the most impressive business retail experiences - and they put on a hotels in Ho Chi Minh City, with fine buffet. t s 18 An Duong Vuong, D 5 a stunning views and 5 star amenities. 533 luxury rooms and suites offering www.windsorplazahotel.com the perfect ambience for concentrated work and undisturbed relaxation. CON DAO ISLAND 76 Le Lai, D 1 38228888 Six Senses Con Dao [email protected] www.saigon.newworldhotels.com True to the Six Senses philosophy of selecting remote (but accessible) Nikko Saigon destinations in areas of outstanding natural beauty, Con Dao is an

ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013 One of the city’s newest untouched and breathtakingly beautiful

63 and attentive Vietnamese hospitality HUE and a range of exclusive villas – and it Bai Tram Resort and Spa make this the perfect place to stay has an impressive wine cellar. for both the corporate and leisure Ana Mandara Hue Mui Ne Bai Tram is based on holistic ideals and traveller. 06 2374 1888 the search for environmental balance 1a Nghi Tam Tay Ho, Hanoi The quiet sounds and vistas of the sea [email protected] embodying the trend towards seeing 04 6270 8888 welcome guests to the first unique ourselves, the natural world, and the [email protected] luxury beach resort with private pool Princess d’Annam man-made environment as one. villas in the area. Located a scenic Hoa Loi, Xuan Canh, Song Cau, Phu Yen Sheraton Hanoi 15km drive from central Hue, this is The look of the resort is classical, bright, 05 7372 2563 spacious resort with the largest villas and impeccably clean and private. The Perfectly located by the shores of the and rooms in the area. The property two Empress Suites are the pinnacle VUNG TAU largest lake in Hanoi and surrounded includes private pool villas, beach villas, of luxury accommodation in Vietnam – by a beautifully landscaped garden duplex and deluxe rooms in a wide they are mini millionaire’s mansions in The Grand-Ho Tram Strip and courtyard, the hotel provides the range of styles and decor designed with themselves, fully-equipped, bright and The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam's first largest integrated resort and perfect balance between tranquillity and complete and modern facilities. spacious, and possessing of the same convenience. Take in panoramic views ethereal design quality that pervades ultimately will include an 1,100-room An Hai Village, Thuan An Town, Hue Phu of Hanoi’s largest lake and enjoy great this whole resort. Set in the remote Ke five-star hotel, a world-class casino, Vang comforts in the 299 spacious guest Ga Bay, wordlessly beautiful. restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an 05 4398 3333 rooms and suites, specially designed Hon Lan, Binh Thuan exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety for relaxation. 06 2368 2222 of beach-front recreation activities. The La Residence Hotel & Spa K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi [email protected] first 541-room tower of this development 04 3719 9000 opened in July 2013 with its casino This former French Governor’s WindFlower Beach Boutique Hotel including 90 live tables and 614 electronic residence dates to 1930 and is a The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi Located in the resort capital of Vietnam game positions. The second 559-room masterpiece of art deco design. Its Oi’s Pick – Mui Ne Bay, WindFlower Beach tower is on track to open in 2015. Located at the heart of Hanoi since incredible location overlooking the Boutique Hotel offers an intimate Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District 1901, Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi Citadel and the Perfume River brings setting for guests to enjoy a getaway Tel: (64) 3788 888 has a long history as a luxurious place this 122-room hotel a total and serene on the beach to its fullest. The hotel is www.thegrandhotramstrip.com for prestigious events and popular tranquillity. The hotel features a 40m home to 24 cozy deluxe rooms with rendezvous. Features include 364 outdoor salt swimming pool at river services and sophistication that are serviced apartments rooms and suites, excellent French height giving the illusion of merging expected from a beach boutique hotel. cuisine at Le Beaulieu, Vietnamese into the Perfume River. Ideal for 76 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne Avila Serviced Apartment specialities at Spices Garden, and executive retreats and exotic incentives (Vietnamese) (06) 2374 3969 / (English) These serviced apartments combine Angelina - Hanoi's most ""avant programmes. 090 291 3969 an excellent location with luxurious garde"" Italian Restaurant & Lounge. 5 Le Loi, Hue www.windflowermuine.com amenities. Seven function rooms, a swimming 05 4383 7475 20-20bis Thi Sach, D 1 pool, fitness centre and the Le Spa du PHU QUOC ISLAND 35218365 Metropole are also available in the hotel. Pilgrimage Village 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Chen Sea Resort & Spa Bella Serviced Apartments Pilgrimage Village offers the harmony 04 3826 6919 Affordable, classy apartment living in [email protected] of a soothing natural environment Located in a quiet bay, this resort a tidy alleyway residence styled with and fascinating local culture. Delicious allows guests to enjoy the peace and white classical flourishes, Bella offers HOI AN meals, sound sleep, and the peaceful natural beauty of Phu Quoc while also good living and proximity to the city life of the quiet countryside refresh the enjoying the exclusive atmosphere without succumbing to the lures of the Life Heritage Resort Hoi An spirit. that the location suggests and the expat bubble. Facilities include a small 130 Minh Mang, Truong An, Hue resort offers. The resort was born from but well-equipped gym on the top floor Rooms are designed along Japanese 05 4388 5461 a long and passionate study in order and pleasant terraces on front-facing themes, each having a personal porch to be integrated and to respect the apartments. with couches for reading and relaxing. NHA TRANG uncontaminated nature of the bay and 56/4 Nguyen Thong, D3 Spacious bathrooms feature stand- of the coastal zone. 3526 0020 alone showers or recessed baths, Evason Ana Mandara Bai Xep, Phu Quoc and many bathrooms enjoy views 07 7399 5895 Cantavil Daewon Apartment of a private garden. Ideal for events The exclusive location affords city- High-luxury complex with libraries, where participants will be enjoying the centre access to Nha Trang’s only Saigon Phu Quoc Resort research center, and cultural information colourful ancient town area. beachfront resort. It is surrounded center on site. Also features an outdoor 1 Pham Hong Thai. Hoi An Town, Quang by private tropical gardens, offering Located on a hill of coconut palm trees, swimming pool. One of the most Nam simplicity, serenity and refinement Saigon Phu Quoc is a beautiful, quiet luxurious towers in the central area. 051 0391 4555 together with spectacular views of Nha seaside resort with plenty of sunshine. 600A Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Trang Bay. Unforgettable incentive Just 10 minutes from the airport, the Central Garden Apartment The Nam Hai experience. resort is an ideal haven for relaxing, These luxurious apartments offer Beachside Tran Phu Boulevard, Nha Trang fishing, trekking, snorkeling, and scuba stunning views of downtown A stunning all-villa resort located on the 05 8352 2222 diving. pristine China Beach featuring 60 one- 62 Tran Hung Dao, Phu Quoc Saigon along with western style bedroom retreats as well as 40 privately- Six Senses Hideaway Ninh Van Bay 07 7384 6999 accommodations and excellent owned two-to-five bedroom residences [email protected] location. each with a private infinity pool. Clean, inner-city luxury compound close The resort is one of Asia’s most to the Ben Nghe River. Hamlet 1 Dien Duong Village, Dien Ban, exclusive and intimate beach escapes, La Veranda Quang Nam 225 Ben Chuong Duong, D 1 sitting on dramatic Ninh Van Bay, 051 0394 0000 091 654 2598 / 093 347 6556 with its impressive rock formations The most distinguished of Phu Quoc [email protected] overlooking the South China Sea, white Island's hotels and guesthouses, La City View Veranda sports paddle fans, butter- sand beach and towering mountains Located in the prime business and yellow exteriors, whitewashed louvers, behind. residential district, only minutes away and tropical gardens recalling a colonial Ninh Van, Khanh Hoa by car from downtown area, City View plantation. Freestanding deluxe villas 05 8372 8222 is the perfect place for home and/or are notable for their sea-facing porches, business in Ho Chi Minh City. spacious bathrooms, and cathedral Sheraton Nha Trang 12 Mac Dinh Chi, D 1 ceilings. 38221111 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa offers Quoc ten categories of accommodation – Hung Vuong Plaza Apartment 07 7398 2988 from spacious, deluxe rooms to 70m2 Huong Vuong Plaza apartments above the D5 Parkson are comprised of two executive suites and a huge presidential QUY NHON suite. With exemplary conference 29 floor buildings with many luxurious apartments in bustling Cho Lon. facilities, this is the number-one MICE Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon 126 Hong Bang, D 5 Palm Garden Resort resort in the region. 26-28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang A hide-away style spa and beach Jasmine Court Serviced Apartment 05 8388 0000 destination set in 13.5 hectares of A boutique property with only 12 t s Set on five private mountainous land and beach. apartments, comprised of one and a hectares of PHAN THIET The tranquillity, splendid views, Cham- two-bedroom suites of various sizes. landscaped tropical inspired architecture and surroundings All apartments are designed in a fresh garden with over 400 species of palm Anantara Mui Ne Resort & Spa are so far unmatched in Vietnam. This contemporary style and finished in a trees and plants right along the beach and near the World Heritage Hoi An resort was awarded Best Wellness pleasing neutral colour scheme. The new face of the former l’Anmien, Ancient Town. Resort in Vietnam in 2005, 2006 and 307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh Lac Long Quan, Cua Dai beach, Hoi this resort offers an exclusive haven of 2007 by the Vietnam Economic Times. 38446639 An luxury and relaxation in a spectacular Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, Quy Nhon, 0510 3927 927 beachfront location right in the heart of Binh Dinh Lancaster Serviced Apartments www.palmgardenresort.com.vn Mui Ne. The only property in the Mui Ne 05 6384 0132 Lancaster Serviced Apartments Le Thanh Ton enjoys a commanding district with full conferencing facilities [email protected] ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013

64 position over the nightlife, culture, and Saigon Pearl Apartment leading travel specialists, Aquarius business hub of Ho Chi Minh City, Ho Chi Minh City’s largest five star Somerset Ho Chi Minh City is a domestic & international air offering a sweeping panoramic view apartment complex, Saigon Pearl Designed with families in mind, it ticketing agency committed to offering of the city skyline from virtually every comprises six 37-story residential provides relocating executives the low-cost flights, travel insurance, and window. towers located on the banks of the space and security to build a warm accommodation. 22 Bis Le Thanh Ton, D 1 Saigon River in Binh Than District, about and comfortable home. Friendly staff 4th Floor, Yoco Building, 41 Nguyen Thi 38246666 five minutes by taxi from downtown. are always on hand to help with local Minh Khai, D1 knowledge. You can join in a wide range Pool, gym, supermarket and dining 3823 1905 The Landmark of social, cultural and lifestyle activities, facilities all on site. The Landmark is a prestigious especially designed to help you Amazing Thailand Tourism Office 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh development of residential integrate into the local culture. Funded by the Thai tourism board, this 38219999 accommodation and office space 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1 office is loaded up with travel resources situated in the heart of HCMC. The Saigon Skygarden 3822 8899 and advice for travellers to Thailand, an 16-storey complex, located on a prime www.somerset.com/vietnam invaluable source of help for travelers A 15-storey building located in the waterfront site, was one of the first of its on their way to the land of smiles. Saigonese Little Tokyo on Le Thanh kind in the city. Somerset Chancellor Court Travel resources and advice for travelers Ton, offering 172 international-standard 5B Ton Duc Thang, D 1 Each of these 172 spacious serviced to Thailand. Serviced Apartments for lease. 38222098 apartments in District 1 is fully-furnished 5th Floor, Empire Tower, 26-28 Ham 20 Le Thanh Ton, D 1 with an open kitchen concept, Nghi, D1 38220002 Mai Ha Lan II Serviced Apartments Saigon View Residences contemporary western style décor, and 6291 3887 Mai Ha Lan II offers a sweeping a large balcony. Saigon View Residences offer a range panoramic view of the city skyline 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D 1 Ben Thanh Tourist of Deluxe, Superior, and Executive from virtually every window. It offers 38229197 One of the better-known tour agencies room types in distinctive one and two 33 luxurious and graciously furnished in the city, Ben Thanh Tourist is 20 bedroom apartments. apartments with studio and two V-Star Apartment years old and specializes in domestic bedroom options. 117, Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Good proximity to the Saigon River and and foreign travel, MICE, tourist 38404966 8A/1C Thai Van Lung, D 1 FV International Hospital, as well as transportation, and air ticketing. 62990992 0909868052 international schools and the Tan Thuan 51 Dong Khoi, D1 Sedona Suites export zone. 3914 3921 Norfolk Mansion With a fantastic location in District Go O Moi, Phu Thuan, D 7 090 611 1121 A comfortable serviced luxury 1 and rooms offering all of the 37733151 apartment in the city center, the Norfolk comforts of home, this award winning Clé Voyages - Xuan Viet Travel features an outdoor pool, gym & sauna, serviced apartment complex caters to travel agencies Xuan Viet Travel has been providing and high-class Cantonese restaurant. businessmen and families alike. travel services and advice for nearly two 17-19-21, Ly Tu Trong, D 1 65 Le Loi, D 1 decades. 38226111 38229666 Asiana Travel Mate Unit 1105, Harbour View Tower, t s a Offering tours to magnificent scenic 35 Nguyen Hue, D1 Saigon Court Sherwood Residence areas in Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, 3821 4942 Since its opening in 1998, Saigon Court Serviced apartments available for Indonesia, and India - the firm has has become well-known amongst the short or long term bookings, located strong purchasing power in these Fiditour expatriate community for exceptional in Pasteur, within walking distance regions, allowing it to offer heavily Fiditour offers a wide range of tours to standards of service. This 12 storey of downtown Ho Chi Minh City, discounted rates. the southeast Asian region, including building is among the highest in the international schools, shopping centres, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 unique cultural trips, adventure trips, area, offering its tenants commanding etc. Pool, sauna, gym, mini-cinema 3825 1358 beach holidays, cruises, and culinary views of other parts of the city. onsite. trips. 149 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D 3 127 Pasteur, D 3 Aquarius Booking Office 129 Nguyen Hue, D1 38232288 With access to a global network of ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013 39306466 3914 1414

65 Hoi An Express awaits indoors. group of individuals concerned with the Municipal Theater is a thriving Preferred by many five-star hotels 126 Hong Bang, D5 improving the lives of the children born performance centre with regular musical in Ho Chi Minh city such as Windsor to Vietnamese mothers and American and cultural shows - predominantly of Plaza Hotel, Duxton Hotel, Legend Saigon Superbowl War servicemen fathers. the classical, high-brow, and top-dollar Hotel Saigon, and Equatorial Hotel, this Formerly the coolest venue in HCMC 24 Le Loi, D1 variety. privately owned travel agency offers a and opened to great aplomb in the 3913 0439 7 Lam Son Square, D1 wide range of services. early noughties, this tired old complex 3825 1563 94 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 in the wrong part of town still retains its cinemas & theatres 3939 0135 international-standard huge bowling The Soul of Vietnam 090 803 9699 alley. The Soul of Vietnam showcases 43A Truong Son, Tan Binh The Ballet and Symphony Orchestra traditional Vietnamese music shows Inside Asia Travel 3848 8888 Ho Chi Minh City’s local classical with voice and traditional instruments. Inside Asia Travel is a boutique luxury music venue with regular programs & Be sure to check out the three-part travel provider of tailor made travel performances. Legend of the Trung Sisters’ with arrangements for English speaking charities 212 Nguyen Trai, D1 accompaniment of stone musical expats and travelers through Southeast instruments, gongs and two lifelike Asia. Guests enjoy highly personalized, Education For Development Vietnam Ben Thanh Theatre elephants. bespoke travel arrangements suited to An international organization that works Once the cultural center of District 1 7 Lam Son Square, D1 individual tastes and budget. with Vietnamese partners to improve when it was built in 1995, this is a good 2229 9414 www.insideasiatravel.com and expand their educational services air-conditioned theater for Vietnamese [email protected] for disadvantaged children and youth. shows & cultural activities that can gyms 3844 1005 (Ext: 221) 305/30 Le Van Sy,Tan Binh accommodate over 1000 people. 3991 6033 6 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Amaryska Kamionko Refine Asia 3823 1652 Private fitness trainer, assisting in full Representing class, creativity, and International Organization For body workouts, toning & strength absolute professionalism in Asian Migration CT Plaza Megastar training for females. Sessions often at corporate and luxury travel services, The organization is concerned with This theater complex offers close clients’ homes or at their designated Refine Asia is the first-class and luxury the welfare and quality of life of the proximity to shops for shoppers and gyms. arm of the well-known regular travel Vietnamese people, particularly migrant many other attractions. Large cinema 0902271830 services operator Focus Asia. and mobile populations. complex on the 7th floor with 3D personalfitnessathome.blogspot.com 138 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ward 6, D3 1B Pham Ngoc Thach, D1 theatres and VIP room. 3932 0732 3822 2057 Level 10, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh California WOW Saigon River Tour 6297 1981 The first and largest international Loreto Vietnam Australia fitness company to open in Vietnam. Established in 1998, Saigon River Tour Dedicated to the reduction of poverty Galaxy Provides world class fitness services provides speedboat services and through beneficial, qualitative and Vietnamese cinema showing and products in a state-of-the art 5-star speedboat tours (ecotourism, Cu Chi responsive educational opportunities international and domestic films. fitness and entertainment facility. Tunnels, ) from Bach for underprivileged and disabled 116 Nguyen Du, D1 126 Hong Bang, D5 Dang Pier. students. 3822 8533 3222 0299 10b Ton Duc Thang, D1 17c Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 28-30-32 Le Lai, D1 6290 9410 3910 6364 3920 6688 6291 5999 Sinh Cafe 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Mekong Quilts 3849 4567 3826 0999 Sinh Cafe started out as a coffee shop, Founded in 2001, Mekong Quilts but later expanded to cater to the employs women in communities Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theater Get Fit Gym needs of tourists and travelers. This northeast of Ho Chi Minh City, to Vietnamese water puppet show with Located on the 3rd floor in the H3 unique travel agency offers tours within create high quality, hand-crafted bed live Vietnamese traditional music, this Building, this international-standard, Vietnam, and also to Laos, Cambodia, covers, accessories and gift wares. All is an original performing art preserved gym offers a steam bath and sauna, and Thailand. profits from the sale of the quilts are and handed down for nearly a thousand yoga, kickboxing, rumba, salsa, 246-248 De Tham, D1 reinvested into the community through years. Daytime performances by special merengue, cumbia and reggaeton Viet Journey the NGO Mekong Plus. arrangement. classes. 1st Floor, 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 55B Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Viet Journey was founded by dedicated 2210 3110 3840 4027 6261 6169 travelers of the southeast Asian region, mekong.quilts.creations.hcmdt1@gmail. 098 937 9873 (Mr. Lam) and they strive to provide quality, com K1 Fitness & Fight Factory time-efficient service for travelers from S17- Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Ho Chi Minh Conservatory Of Music A well-known brand name founded by around the world. 6271 7758 One of three conservatories in Vietnam, a group of professional kickboxers and 18-19-20 Ton Duc Thang, D1 offering world class musical education now present in France and Southeast 3823 7152 Saigon Children’s Charity and performances. Asia, including Montpellier and Phnom Saigon Children’s Charity was founded Concerts at the local Ho Chi Minh City Penh as well as here in Saigon. bowling in 1992 to help disadvantaged Music School. 14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Vietnamese children to get an 112 Nguyen Du, D1 091 833 7111 The Bowling Center education and a fairer start in life. 3822 5841 Nutrifort Fitness The Bowling Centre is a smaller venue Their programs aim to help the most disadvantaged children of Vietnam to Hung Vuong Megastar Aiming to be the voice of health and with 12 lanes located in the International fitness in Vietnam, Nutrifort provides Club. escape from poverty through education This theater complex offers close and training. proximity to shops for shoppers and clientele with proper tools and teaching 285B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 methods to keep the mind and body 59 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 many other attractions. Large cinema 3864 3784 fit and healthy. Clients also learn about 3930 0503 complex in the CT Plaza building with nutrition to nourish and maintain their 3D theatres and VIP room. Bowling Pacific Garden health. The Little Rose Shelter 126 Hong Bang, D5 Small bowling alley at the Pacific 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 The Little Rose Shelter is a refuge for 3222 0388 Garden apartments complex, ideal for 3825 8560 a more private game away from the young girls who have been sexually crowds of teenagers. abused or trafficked for the purpose IDECAF Drama Theatre Rex Health Club of labor or sexual exploitation. It IDECAF is a theater holding French 8 Bis Ba Thang Hai, D10 This spa was designed for both men 3863 7944 offers psychological rehabilitation, cultural exchanges as well as offering & women, integrating traditional opportunities to go to school, free courses in French. Vietnamese, Indian, and Chinese herbal Diamond Superbowl healthcare and a supportive, loving 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 remedies and techniques. Situated on An electrifying bowling experience environment to grow. 38295451 the rooftop of the Rex Hotel, it features featuring a 32 lane centrally-located Hem 30, 55/2 Bis Lam Van Ben, D7 two outdoor swimming areas. bowling alley with fluorescent bowling 3872 0308 Le Thanh Theatre 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 balls and high-tech scoring. Experimental art space for dance and 3825 1814 4th Floor, 34 Le Duan, Ben Nghe, D1 Unicef Vietnam exhibitions, with regular performances UNICEF Vietnam provides support in of leading-edge artistic theatre. Saigon River Club

PowerBowl 388 policy development, legal reform, and 25 Phan Phu Tien, D5 Located in Ruby Tower at the Saigon t s a This is a 10 lane, 10 pin bowling alley improving social services. Following 2242 4622 Pearl, Saigon River Club is equipped with a games section attached, located reunification in 1975, the charity with the very latest in fitness on the 4th floor of the Parkson Saigon launched a nationwide programme to Lotte Cinema Diamond technology. It has a fully-equipped Plaza building. meet the basic needs of Vietnam’s girls Fine cinema complex in one of the sauna and steam room and a large Level 4, 35 Le Thanh Ton, D1 and boys. most iconic department store buildings outdoor pool with jacuzzi. Unit 1406, Suh Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen in town. Ride up the elevator to the top Ruby Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Powerbowl Hung Vuong Hue, D1 floor to catch a flick. Thanh 12 lane 10 pin AMF bowling alley with 13th Floor, 34 Le Duan, D1 3514 9009 a games section located on the 3rd Waifs Of War Foundation floor of the Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza The Waifs of War Foundation was Saigon Opera House Star Fitness Bitexco building - a Bud’s ice-cream station established in March 2004 by a No mere historical museum piece, Located in The Manor Tower, this gym ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013

66 is not only a fitness center it includes the . The multi-building 1935 on the site of an earlier mosque, and is dedicated to the Hindu Goddess other specialized classes such as yoga, museum includes a courtyard with this was originally constructed for Mariamman. belly dancing, kick boxing, zumba, body military equipment including a “Huey” worshippers from southern India then- 45 Truong Dinh, D1 toning, and so on. helicopter, an M48 Patton tank and an resident in Saigon. Now Muslims from Level 1, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh F-5A fighter. all over the world come here to worship. Nga Sau Church / Saint Jeanne d’Arc 3514 0255 28 Vo Van Tan, D3 66 Dong Du, D1 Church 3930 6325 3824 2903 Dedicated to St. Joan of Arc, this salmon-pink church is built on the site museums Cha Tam Church of a former Chinese cemetery. parks Cha Tam Church is an old catholic 116B Hung Vuong, D5 Fine Arts Museum Ho Chi Minh City church built in 1900. The church was With a collection housing more than Cong Vien Van Hoa Park named for priest Cha Tam in honor of Quan Am Pagoda 21,000 pieces in various displays, the This former French recreational space his great sermons and contributions to An impressive pagoda dedicated to Fine Arts Museum Ho Chi Minh City has been converted into one of the the community. the popular Goddess of Mercy, with highlights traditional and modern works city’s favorite sports parks. 25 Hoc Lac, D5 a beautiful interior and large fish and of HCMC artists as well as other artists 115 Nguyen Du, D1 3829 8914 turtle pond. from the south of Vietnam. 12 Lao Tu, D5 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Dam Sen Park Cho Quan Church This beautiful park was constructed An old church built on the foundations Quoc Tu Pagoda Geological Museum on reclaimed marshland and is widely of earlier churches that have stood Prominent seven storied pagoda A fittingly dull-looking building at the considered to be Vietnam’s most here for centuries, Cho Quan Church with colorful statuary in D10, the main corner of Nguyen Binh Khiem and exciting cultural theme park. was constructed in 1887 in the Gothic complex of the pagoda spans seven Nguyen Huu Canh, the museum has 3 Hoa Binh, D11 tradition, with large stone pillars and a stories with the first two open to the over 20,000 samples of interesting red tiled roof. The massive bell tower public. rocks. Ky Hoa Park consists of three floors and provides Ba Thang Hai, D10 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1 Large tourist area in the inner suburbs stunning views. with many lakeside entertainment 120 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica Ho Chi Minh Campaign Museum activities. Ho Chi Minh City’s foremost tourist Small military museum dedicated to 12 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Cholon Mosque attraction, this beautiful cathedral dates the Ho Chi Minh Campaign that led Built by Muslims from South India from the 1860s and is built with bricks to communist victory over southern Le Thi Rieng Park in 1932, the Cholon Mosque Serves from Marseille. In front of the cathedral Vietnam. A large park in D10, Le Thi Rieng park is Cholon’s Muslim community, including stands a Virgin Mary statue, which is 2 Le Duan, D1 a well-known spot for casual exercise, Malaysian, Indonesian as well as South said to have been shed tears in 2005, a friendly game of badminton and early Asian worshipers. causing thousands of people to stop Ho Chi Minh City Museum morning birdwatching. 641 Nguyen Trai, D5 around the Basilica. An old French Colonial palace, the 875 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 3855 5350 1 Cong Xa Paris, D1 museum has a wide and varied collection and some interesting modern Phu Lam Park Dieu Phap Subramaniam Swami Temple history of its own. Gentle park on a small lake amidst busy Almost half a century after Dieu Phap One among the city’s only two South 65 Ly Tu Trong, D1 back streets of outer Cholon, popular pagoda was founded, it has continued Indian Hindu temples, it was the first with locals for fishing and exercise. to provide a home and food for the Hindu temple ever built in Ho Chi Minh Ho Chi Minh Museum 121 Kinh Duong Vuong, D6 poor, helpless, and homeless elderly City and the largest. Located a mere five Three stories dedicated to Ho Chi Minh, September 23 Park people. minutes’ walk from Ben Thanh Market. the museum features an assortment 188 No Trang Long, Binh Thanh 98 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 of artifacts from his personal life, One of the largest parks in the city 3553 3267 including a radio, sandals and clothes. center. It’s a great place to exercise, see Tan Dinh Church After exploring the more than 3,000 free music performances, attend public Hoa Khanh Temple Built by French colonists in the late events, and enjoy food from street Ho Chi Minh portraits, take a walk in the A tall, colorful, and oddly out-of-place 19th century, Tan Dinh Church is vendors. lovely gardens around the old building temple, sticking up prominently from renowned for its distinctive pink facade Pham Ngu Lao, Pham Ngu Lao, D1 nicknamed the Dragon House’ for its the homes and businesses that and decorative designs. A popular ornate roof and hybrid Franco-Chinese surround it. photography subject for visitors to Suoi Tien Theme Park Oi’s Pick architecture. 215 Phan Van Tri, Binh Thanh Ho Chi Minh City regardless of their Enormous amusement park on the 1 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 3843 1699 religion. outskirts of the city with multiple www.chuahoakhanh.com 289 Hai Ba Trung, D3 themed attractions demonstrating Museum of Southern Vietnamese 3829 0093 Women Vietnamese culture. Hung Phuoc Pagoda Xa Lo Ha Noi, D9 The Museum of Southern Vietnamese Quiet and unassuming active Buddhist THE WELL International Church Women has become a place of interest Van Thanh Park pagoda situated behind the Saigon The Well is a registered English speaking, for both locals and tourists alike. The Railway Station. evangelical Protestant church for Ho This expansive park located on the museum was set up in order to educate 540/23 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 Chi Minh City's expatriate community banks of the Thi Nghe River offers future generations of women about 3993 4113 meeting each Sunday at 11am. patriotism and the national traditions of myriad culinary options in addition to stunning views and natural atmosphere. 095 806 3311 Khanh Hoi Church, 98 Le Quoc Hung, D4 Vietnamese women. 0976 285 610 48/10 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh 202 Vo Thi Sau, D3 Huyen Sy Church www.thewellvn.org Zoo and Botanical Gardens One of Saigon’s oldest churches Reunification Palace convenient to the backpacker district, Thien Hau Pagoda Formerly known as the Independence One of the world’s oldest zoos, with a modest collection of animals and and built by the grandfather-in-law of One of Cholon’s most popular Palace, the Reunification Palace marked the last king of Vietnam. pagodas, this temple was originally the end of the Vietnam War, when a a botanical garden, with many rare 1 Ton That Tung, D1 built as an expression of gratitude by North Vietnamese Army tank crashed orchids, ornamental plants, and over a 3882 3858 19th century Chinese immigrants for through its main gates. Roped-off hundred species of mammals, reptiles Thien Hau’s protection during their showrooms, exactly as they were in and birds. Jamiul Islamiyah Mosque initial trip to Saigon by sea. Its many 1975, include the presidential office, 2B Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1 Highly stylistic Mosque near the central hanging incense coils make for superb bedroom, and reception. police station, servicing a sizeable local photographs. 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 places of worship Muslim community, it is also known as 710 Nguyen Trai, D5 Vietnam History Museum the Nancy Mosque. 459B Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tran Hung Dao Temple This long-running historical museum Ba Chuong Church of St Dominic 3920 3325 One among a series of temples and offers a chronological display of many Ba Chuong Church was redesigned in pagodas dedicated to the Vietnamese items and artefacts, and has been 2003, and now this visually stunning Loc Uyen Meditation Chamber showered with multiple awards by the house of worship features a blend folk hero Tran Hung Dao, who freed local administration. of traditional oriental and western In stark contrast with the pagodas and ancient Vietnamese people from the 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1 architecture. temples that dot the city landscape, Mongolians in the 13th century. 3829 8146 190 Le Van Sy, Phu Nhuan Loc Uyen Meditation Chamber is a 36 Vo Thi Sau, D1 3844 8206 place dedicated to seeking inner peace Vietnamese Traditional Medicine and the study of Buddhism. A colorful Vinh Nghiem Pagoda Museum D6 pagoda with resident monks, daily Sitting next to the canal at the end The Museum of Traditional Vietnamese Bac Ha Church devotional instruction, and a free of Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, this structure t s traditional medical healer on Thursdays draws its inspiration from traditional a Medicine contains nearly 3,000 items Built in 2008. The name Bac Ha is the informing guests about the subject combination between the two names of and Sundays from 8-11am. Vietnamese culture and a touch of dating all the way back to the Stone their original dioceses, Bac Ninh and Ha 121 Kinh Duong Vuong, D6 the Japanese architectural style. The Age. Noi. The church has two bell towers at 3875 1155 largest and most impressive Mahayana 41 Hoang Du Khuong, D10 42m high, and there’s a room dedicated 093 868 0935 Buddhist pagoda in the city. 3862 7812 to looking after kids to let their parents 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 join the mass. Mariamman Temple 3843 9901 419 Ly Thai To, D10 This small Hindu temple is frequented Attracting more than 500,000 visitors 3839 1032 by both Saigon’s tiny Hindu population Xa Loi Pagoda a year, the War Remnants Museum along with residential Vietnamese. The largest pagoda in Ho Chi Minh shows the grim reality of war, focusing Central Mosque The temple was built in the late 19th City and known for a brutal 1963 raid, ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013 mainly on the American phase of Built by South Indian Muslims in century by traders from Tamil Nadu Xa Loi was built in 1956 following the

67 drawings of the architects Nguyen Van level, as well as painting unglazed own gym. Duong and Do Ba Vinh for worshipping pottery) and cooking classes (Japanese swimming pools 1 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Buddhist relics. and Vietnamese). The Overland Club 0839101542 89 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D3 also hosts various events. Past events Great World Pool 3930 0679 include noodle making, soap carving, Popular public pool known for its high standard of cleanliness, this indoor classes and kids’ cooking. pool is shallow at both ends and deep social clubs 36bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 in the middle to ensure safety for non- Cetana PSB Intellis International Brogolf Bar Wars 3820 9734 swimmers. College 600 Nguyen Pham Tuan, D6 PSB College is the first and only Group of barflies who meet regularly Saigon Swing Cats 3853 7867 Singapore licensed college in Vietnam. for golf, open to new members. First Saigon Swing Cats organizes dance Provides students easier accessibility in Saturday of each month, breakfast, classes, workshops and events at Ky Dong Swimming Pool gaining knowledge and skills beyond the brunch, and 18 holes with a caddy. various venues around HCMC including Great D3 outdoor family pool, ideal for usual classroom study. PSB College offers 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 restaurants, lounges and dance studios. the kids. a suite of internationally-recognized 090 927 3997 Dance styles include the Lindy, Shim 40 Ky Dong, D3 diploma programs from business, Sham and Tranky Doo. 2241 5322 marketing, hospitality to finance. Dat Nam Friendly Club Petrohouse Tower- caffe molinari, 144-146-148 Le Lai, D1 Lam Son Swimming Club 3926 2233 While it may ring of a bingo association, 5 Le Duan, D1 this is a fairly well-respected venue for Olympic-sized swimming pool with www.psbcollege.edu.vn entertainment and cultural exchange designated lanes (one exclusively amongst foreigners and entrepreneurs - sports for women) and a reputation for Saigon Cooking Class a very casual networking opportunity. cleanliness. 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Basement Level, 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Classes can include a market tour to Green Bamboo Club 3835 8028 buy the day's ingredients followed by 5404 3618 Pleasant tennis club with several courts a hands-on cooking class, organized International Ladies of Vietnam just a short hop over the bridge from Lan Anh Swimming Club Pool twice a day from Tuesday till Sunday District 1 into Binh Thanh. The popular Lan Anh club is a well- (US$39.50 to 45.50). Team building A women’s group that meets Thursday 50/3 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh situated sports area with a clean, quiet programs also available. mornings for coffee from 10am- noon 3898 6504 pool and jacuzzi. A bar serves drinks and 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 at Sherwood Residences- 1st floor towels by the water. There are various 3825 8485 (127 Pasteur, D3) Cost for coffee and Lan Anh International Tennis Court areas with different depths from 1.4m snacks is VND130,000. Membership is to 2m, suitable for adults. Swimming Vietnam Cookery Centre Oi’s Pick VND700,000 per year. Popular international sports club facility lessons are available at the club. A complete cookery center offering Open to all ladies with advanced sporting equipment, 291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 hands-on classes. This culinary courts, gym, and restaurant. This sports 3932 5508 compound introduces visitors to club also hosts tennis tournaments and Vietnamese cuisine. Latin Street Dance other events. Van Thanh Pool 26 Ly Tu Trong, 4th floor, Ste 45, D1 A very casual swimming venue favored t s Geisha’s was funky enough without the 291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 3827 0349/ 3823 8085 a addition of this new meet-up for Latin 3862 7144 by younger people and recreational swimmers. fans yearning for something a little VLS School 48/10 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Imparting genuine fluency in grittier than salsa. Kimdo Recreation Centre 2219 5487 Vietnamese since 1994, VLS is one Geisha Tea House, 85 Pasteur, D1 Situated in downtown Saigon, Kim Do of the city’s best-organised and most Recreational Centre provides a wide Yet Kieu Swimming Pool professional training centers devoted to variety of services: restaurant, karaoke, Overland Club A long-standing swimming club that’s the Vietnamese language, with classes Overland Club is a 100 percent live music cafe, bar, dancing, massage, become the standard for competition, for all levels. foreign-owned Japanese company that steam bath and hairdressing. clean water, and inexpensive prices, 4th floor, CMARD2 Building, 45 Dinh Tien organizes cultural classes including 129A Nguyen Hue, D1 Yet Kieu is a well-managed complex of Hoang, D1

pottery (from basic to intermediate 3822 5914 pools for the family - and it also has its 3910 0168 ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013

68 Fashion IMAGEs BY quinn ryan mattingly

Dress | Ha Nhat Tien (inquire in store)

Belt | Little Paris VND125,000

Shoes | Nine West VND3,487,000

Necklace | Little Paris (not for sale)

69 MidCentury Mid century shapes are everywhere this season and the key is to go big. Voluminous skirts, layered cocktail dresses and fitted day dresses are all iconic looks of the time, and can be found all the way over here in Saigon. We have rounded up some of our favorite mid-century looks, designed here in Vietnam.

Stylist: James Allen Makeup and Hair: Kenny Lieu Photographer: Quinn Ryan Mattingly Model: Tokki Assistant stylist: Danny St. Louis Location: Café Palpitation 29 Dien Bien Phu, D1

70 Dress | Little Paris VND750,000

Earrings | MD Mansion VND20,000

71 Dress | Lam Boutique VND3,900,000

Belt | Bonjour (inquire in store)

Earrings | MD Mansion VND40,000

72 Dress | Little Paris VND890,000

Earrings | MD Mansion VND40,000

73 Dress | Ngan Private Collection VND1,188,000

Necklace | Little Paris (not for sale)

74 ADDRESSES

Ha Nhat Tien 380 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan

Little Paris 12H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1

Nine West F1 - 20&21, Saigon Centre 65 Le Loi, D1

Ngan Private Collection 24/4 Pham Ngoc Thach, D1

MD Mansion 56/4B Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 091 744 8773

Lam Boutique 76A Le Loi, D1

Bonjour 446 Vo Van Tan, D3

75 ESSENTIALS Buckle Down Our month of mid century fashion wouldn’t be complete without a selection of slim belts, perfect to enhance the hour glass shape this period is famous for. There are countless colors available from the florescent to the subdued.

COMPILED BY JAMES ALLEN

Bonjour Bonjour Little Paris Little Paris Nine West VND220,000 (inquire in store) VND60,000 VND125,000 VND1,519,000

76 The List

Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly comprehensive Fashion insider's guide for foreign residents - website launching 2013 Hong Kong and the . fashion trends exclusively designed by women. eyewear 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Josphine Geralda, one of the leading 192 Ly Tu Trong, D1 3829 0061 designers in London. 3825 0618 Dilusso 74C-74/1 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Selling many famous eyewear brands Bebe 3824 8214 Song - Valerie Gregori McKenzie under Italian manufacturers such as The shop sells its brand of women’s 3822 1191 French bohemian chic designs that Dolce & Gabbana, RayBan, Versace and clothing and apparel, dresses, caters to sophsiticated women. Bvlgari. Provides high-quality products jumpsuits, shoes and bags. La Bella 75 Pasteur, D1 at an affordable price. 1st floor, Saigon center, 65 Le Loi, D1 A Vietnamese fashion shop that 3824 6986 29A Dong Khoi, D1 3914 4011 carries dresses, skirts, tops and a large 3824 6469 selection of bags and purses. Sophilita 090 921 0192 Cao Vinh Fashion 58-87 Pasteur, D1 A simple Italian fashion brand with Specializes in formal Western-style 3823 0172 several branches in Vietnam, Sophilita Eyewear Hut shirts, Cao Vinh is distinctive if for 9am - 9pm mainly sells office, street, and casual, Eyewear Hut offers prescription glasses, nothing else than its simple, intriguing Lyn Around womenswear. contact lenses, ophthalmic lenses and website allowing customers to specify This is the Saigon branch of the 15C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 other devices.They also stock popular design elements. international high-class fashion label 6275 9019 brands such as Luxottica, DeRigo, 69 Pasteur, D1 Lyn Around. It is famous for its girly girl Charmant, Marcolin, Dolce & Gabbana, 3824 5645 and street style. Suite Blanco D & G, Tom Ford, Salvatore Ferragamo 090 817 9129 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Suite Blanco is a Spanish company and more. Also caters to kids. 3821 6575 specialized in the design, production, 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 Cashew distribution and sale of all types of 3821 1695 Fashion shop chain with 4 boutiques in L’Usine accessories and clothing for the HCMC. Specializes in women clothes The central retail space offers famous modern woman and man looking for Eyewear Plaza and accessories. Designed by their fashion brands from around the world the latest trends at affordable prices. The largest shopping center for own designers. Familiar brand in HCMC with full rotating stock. The chain now has 240 shops spread in eyewear in Ho Chi Minh City with catwalk and Vietnam fashion industry. First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, D1 15 different countries including Vietnam. more than 1,000 products including 38 Ly Tu Trong, D1 6674 3565 Vincom Center A, 171 Dong Khoi, D1 sunglasses and prescription glasses. 6683 9669 33 Nguyen Du, D1 Maison de Bunga Thuy Design House 3829 5051 Diva Silk Boutique Maison de Bunga is a specialty A popular Vietnamese ready-to-wear Diva is all about silk, oriental glamour, women’s clothing store specializing in designer creating seasonal collections Oakley luxury, and a feminine charm to match. designers with floral motifs, hats, bags, using high quality materials with a Decades of Oakley innovation have The products in this little shop comprise and other accessories. minimalist design aesthetic. Thuy’s led to a full array of market-leading both locally-woven first-grade silk 81 Pasteur, D1 friendly boutique carries a range of products including performance apparel garments and those imported from 3943 0990 shapes and silhouettes that are often and accessories, prescription eyewear, Thailand. worn by the city’s fashion conscious. footwear, watches and electronics. 146 Dong Khoi, D1 Mango 151/6 Dong Khoi, D1 The company continues to build on its 3822 7153 Mango is a Spanish fashion design www.facebook.com/thuydesignhouse heritage of authenticity by reinventing company with over 2,000 stores products from scratch to achieve Esprit around the world. Ho Chi Minh City is Umbrella superior quality and genuine innovation Hong Kong-based lifestyle apparel home to several of its branches. Mango This fashion label caters to a higher that delivers the unexpected. brand offering affordable casual sells fashion clothing for women end market with tailored bags to 28 Ton That Thiep, D1 streetwear from a two-story shop in the including dresses, skirts, tops and accessories. 3821 5712 heart of downtown HCMC. accessories. 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Unit 2F-11, 2nd floor, Icon 68, 2 Hai Trieu, D1 58 Dong Khoi, D1 6276 2730 6266 2111 Sunwear Boutique 3827 6085 www.umbrella-fashion.com With many locations around the city, 1st Floor, 65 Le Loi, D1 this luxury eyewear store supplies many Eva Gopa 3914 7464 Valenciani Oi’s Pick designer brands, including Burberry, Office fashion, street-style fashion, and Highly respected Vietnamese designer evening dresses for women. Misa Collection Vogue, Blue Bay, and many others. whose collections are featured in ELLE 11E Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Well-known for tailoring bespoke ao 89-91 Nguyen Du, D1 Vietnam and Vogue Vietnam. 3910 3877 dias. 3824 4397 1F/12 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 67 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 3821 2788 Fit 3829 4007 090 785 5788 ladieswear Caters to women in their 20s. 098 330 0469 44 Luu Van Lang, D1 Anupa Eco Boutique Ngan Private Collection menswear The boutique has been converted into Gaya A collection of multi-brand fashion an eco-boutique which houses the A high-end shop that sells cocktail and labels created by one of Vietnam’s Anna Vo Fashion Boutique party dresses by French-Cambodian highly recognized fashion designers. complete Anupa leather collections A popular designer currently in Saigon, designer Romyda Keth. Gaya has Dedicated personal styling consultant and semi precious jewelry as well as Anna Vo produces seasonal collections specializes in home interior products. available for those in need of their own up-and-coming eco designers both inspired by her time in Europe and locally and internationally such as ready 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 stylist. 3925 1495 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Vietnam as well as aiming to be both to wear mens linen shirts, ladies cotton beautiful and functional. The boutique dresses, chicken leg watch straps, 6290 9391 also carries pieces from her mother bamboo glasses and scarves with Kelly Bui Thuy Nga’s collections as well as high pendants. Launched in April 2010, the shop sells Phuong My quality imported accessories. Each 9 Dong Du, D1 the most recent collections by the A ready-to-wear fashion designer collection includes both menswear and www.anupa.net / facebook: anupaluxury brand. The collections shown on the currently working from Ho Chi Minh website are the same as those in-store. City, producing feminine pieces using womenswear. Axara Paris - Saigon Center B1-24, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh high quality fabric such as silk organza 23 Dong Khoi, D1 6675 4013 Axara may have seduced the whole Ton, D1 and lace using expert tailoring and world, but its 2010 launch in Vietnam 3936 9386 construction which has earned her An Phuoc at the Vincom Centre is still making frequent coverage in the country’s top An Phuoc Garment Manufacturing was t s headway with modern young Khai Silk fashion magazines. a established in 1992 with 50 workers and Vietnamese women entranced by its Khai Silk is a favorite among local 81 Le Thanh Ton, D1 romantic, glamorous designs. celebrities for its high quality tailoring, 09 7271 7788 40 sewing machines, specializing in 65 Le Loi, D1 fabrics and service. manufacturing for exporting enterprises. 3914 7655 81 Dong Khoi, D1 Shin Now it has transformed itself into a 3822 2856 Vintage style ladies fashion, clothes garment export company featuring Banana Shop and accessories by local designers. handmade clothing and shoes. Banana Shop provides everything a Kiwi Fashion 122 Ly Tu Trong, D1 182 Hai Ba Trung, D1 girl needs to be noticed in Ho Chi Minh Kiwi offers contemporary designes 090 935 2369 City. Whether it be undergarments, at an affordable price.It was founded Bonjour shoes, bags, or jewelry, Banana Shop by former Vietnamese model Kim Sifa Fashion A fashion boutique at the Vo Van Tan/ ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013 delivers with unique products from Hong Phung and houses the latest Known for selling office wear for Cao Thang T-intersection providing an

77 exhaustive range of one-off fashion 3821 2894 Kimseng Shoes Hanoi pieces and accessories with both a 66 Le Loi, D1 An open storefront that sells gold and Cheap, centrally-located shoe store modern and vintage feel. Prices are 3824 1455 gold-related jewelry with babywear boutique at the affordable for both men and women 50 Le Loi, D1 doorway. Since 1929, they’ve been and come in a range of sizes to suit Asian Fish 3823 4414 making and selling shoes for both most customers. Serves made-to-order classic souvenirs, 090 821 3245 men and women. 446 Vo Van Tan, D3 original ao dai designs, and is highly 107 Le Thanh Ton, D1 popular with Japanese customers. Also Kita Diamonds 3829 5753 Maschio Shop sells bags, sunglasses and clothing. Quality diamonds specialist with a Colorful retro men’s fashions, one of the 39/9 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 professional showroom. Steve Madden quirkier fine-quality local fashion stores 3822 1839 82 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Considered the fashion footwear in the central area. 3821 1510 mogul of the 21st century, Madden 168 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Avocado has been responsible for the design 3829 2975 Airy and spacious shop for handbags Lam Boutique and marketing of the company's and accessories. The shop sells clothing for women trendsetting shoes for the past two Mizada 117 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D1 only and most of the items on offer decades. His collections are aimed Since its inception in 2004, Mizada 0123 999 9099 are European casual vintage style with at fashion forward men and women, has become one of the leading luxury a touch of street chic. The clothes are and also include bags and other fashion brands in Vietnam. Mizada Bam Skate Shop - VVT made by the shop and has become accessories. caters to both women and women with Bam Skate Shop stocks a wide range of quite popular among Vietnamese Vincom Center B, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 products such as T-shirts, jeans, coats, international brands for those in search celebrities. scarves, and much more. of skating equipment and apparel. 1st Floor, 71 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Sophia Jewellery 105 Le Thanh Ton, D1 228 Vo Van Tan, D3 090 671 2309 Fine jewelry sold in an annex to the 6673 4199 090 878 9820 lobby of the Oscar Saigon Hotel. Le Hang Crystal Jewellery 68A Nguyen Hue, D1 San Sciaro Manhattan Cara Diamond & Jewelry Vincom With almost 20 years of experience in 3822 8513 Fashionable, smart menswear from One of the better-appointed jewelry the design field, Le Hang’s experienced the Viet Tien Garment Company, counters at Vincom B, Cara sells boldly- group of staff create jewelry from Tran Quoc Lan specializing in garment manufacture designed pieces at reasonable rates. fragments of Swarovski crystals. Custom-makes shoes and sells shoes 101 Le Thanh Ton, D1 of all kinds. and trade equipment since the mid Shop B28, First Floor, 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 3827 3596 97 Le Thanh Ton, D1 70’s. 3829 5453 1st Floor Saigon Tax Trade Center, 135 Charlies & Keith Lua Exclusive Boutique Nguyen Hue, D1 Singapore-based fashion retailer Prestige shop that sells exlcusive Tuyet Lan 3864 0800 specialising in shoes, handbags and Vietnamese silks. Tuyet Lan’s tailor will help you design 090 316 6364 accessories at a mid range price point. 83 Ly Tu Trong, D1 your own garment or choose from a 17-18 Nguyen Trai, D1 Santo Nero 3822 5292 colorful selection of exquisite hand- Compa Jewelry store embroidered pieces. Centrally-located purveyors of Nine West 91 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 international Santo Nero brand “Italian Compa Jewelry Store specializes Originating in the U.S. Nine West has 3827 7038 gents wear”. in diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and a built a name for itself by quickly 090 392 6286 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 emeralds from the finest quality of translating runway trends into styles raw materials that meet international attainable on the high street, and in the Viet Thanh Veston Huy Hoang standards. Compa Jewelry is also case of Vietnam, the malls of district People still hunt Mekong crocodiles Men’s tailored fashions, specialising in a manufacturer and importer of one. Collections found in store now for their fine leather, and there’s a suits. Expect to Pay: $200 and upward gemstones and fashion jewelry. include a wider range of accessories healthy home-grown crocodile leather for a suit, fabric included. Obviously, the 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 such as bags, belts and other lines of industry with this venue being one better the quality of fabric, the higher the 3915 2151 accessories. of the more upper-class of these price. 70% of customers are foreigners. Vincom Center B, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 establishments. Sells wallets, belts, 65 Pasteur, D1 Doc Martens Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 handbags, keychains, and other small 3822 4609 Small central-city outlet of the popular leather goods. 090 865 4988 international Doc Marten brand with an Pandora 137 Dong Khoi, D1 extensive stock of the latest styles. Pandora designs, manufactures and 3824 2735 39 Le Loi, D1 markets hand-finished and modern 3821 4931 jewelry made from genuine materials such as sterling silver, pearls and tailors Hong Anh Collections - LTT gemstones at affordable prices. Using fabrics such as silk and taffeta, 6 Dong Khoi, D1 ANH SILK the brand caters to a younger crowd. 3822 3241 A little fashion shop near the Sheraton Stocks clothing, handbags, jewelry and hotel selling both men’s and women’s neckties. PNJ Nguyen Hue clothing and with a fast turnaround 75 Ly Tu Trong, D1 PNJ was the first local jewelry company tailoring service for silk garments. 3824 3542 exporting products overseas. Since 151 Dong Khoi, D1 1995, PNJ jewelry products have been 2211 9116 U.S. POLO ASSN. Ice Accessories introduced in Hong Kong Jewelry U.S. POLO ASSN. is ICE and ICE Accessories are the newest Fair, as well as exported to , Cao Minh an American fashion brands from Duy Anh Trading Co., Ltd. Germany, US, Australia and is now Founded by Mr. Ly Minh in 1948, who brand that carries under the creative direction of Adrian entering the Dubai market. dedicated his entire life to custom- trendy and cool polo Anh Tuan. This high end fashion hub Ground Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Center, tailoring works. Cao Minh Garment style clothing for men. is now open at the Saigon Centre. 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 Private Enterprise was the first in Their high quality items are ideal for Each ICE collection offers 100 types of 3914 4854 Vietnam to successfully export its suits casual wear as well as for a game of fashionable designs and colors. to Japan. golfing or any other sports. Puma 77 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 138 Nguyen Trai, D1 One of a network of Puma shops 3824 2547 3521 0881 6291 3282 around town, this has a far more limited [email protected] Ipa-Nima range than some of the other outlets, Kim Dung Embroidery Tailor www.uspoloassn.com but scores on its convenient location. Tailored outfits and specializing in With a focus on handbags and a 090 399 9551 1st Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Centre, 135 Asian garments as well as Western design-first philosophy, Hong Kong Nguyen Hue, D1 suits and dresses for both domestic expat Christina Yu’s Ipa-Nima brand 3821 7464 and foreign customers. translates fashion trends into edgy shoes & accessories 129 Le Thanh Ton, D1 accessories, steeped in soul. Saigon Jewelry Company Ltd 3823 2077 77-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Formerly known as the Saigon Jewelry 012 7773 8146 Accessorize 3515 3980 Holding Company, SJC specializes in Accessorize is devoted to bringing manufacturing and trading gold and Lam Tailor’s customers eclectic products with its ITALY Shoes Shop jewels. The brand is well-recognized Considered the tailor of choice in the own in-house design team. Accessorize Modest Italian-style mens shoes at throughout Vietnam as well as in the diplomatic community here, it had t s a is focused on sourcing globally local prices in the central area. Asia-Pacific region. the honor to tailor a suit for President in an effort to find well priced and 186 Ly Tu Trong, D1 1st Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Center, 135 George W Bush when he was in good quality collections of fashion 3827 9813 Nguyen Hue, D1 Vietnam several years ago. They import accessories following seasonal themes. 3821 8844 their fabrics from England and Italy. Vincom Center B, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Kim Ngon Jewelry 158C Dong Khoi, D1 A counter in Tax building that buys Sapa Shop 3824 3830 Adidas Performance Store and sells jewelry made from gold and Certainly one of the grooviest souvenir Sells running shoes and sportswear by gemstones. shops on Le Loi, much of the stock Lan Vy the famous German brand. A37-A39 Counter, Saigon Tax Trade comprises ethnic handicrafts brought A small tailor shop near Ben Thanh 2nd Floor Bitexco Tower, 135 Nguyen Center, 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 down direct from breathtaking Sapa. market. Female tailor who specializes

Hue, D1 3914 4874 76 Le Loi, D1 in shorts, skirts, business shirts and ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013

78 dresses. luxury watch showroom in the foyer of is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a Elite Dental 217 Le Thanh Ton, D1 the Sunwah building. year providing routine and emergency With an atmosphere more reminiscent 3822 5087 Ground Floor, Sunwah Tower, healthcare services as well as on-site of a luxury hotel, this is one of the 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 laboratory and radiology services. largest high-quality dental clinics in Minh Doan Tailors Shop 3821 9279 Languages spoken include Japanese, HCMC, established to answer expat Specializes in suits for men and women. Korean and French, among others. demands for superb dental techniques 120 Le Thanh Ton, D1 clinics 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 and professional staff. 3823 1687 3829 8551 57A Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Phuong Anh American Chiropractic Clinic Perfect Skin lab 3933 3737 The shop stocks fine embroideries American Chiropractic Clinic is a More than just a spa, this District German International Dentistry and brocade, with a 24 hour turnover chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot 1 venue is a genuine skin lab that German International Dentistry offers tailoring service. care clinic in the Heart of Saigon. We caters to each customer’s unique excellent consultation services from B4, 2nd Floor Tax Building, are staffed by American and French- characteristics and needs. The lab experienced, international dentists so 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 trained Chiropractic Physicians and is the latest concept developed by that you can make informed decisions 38213115 Vietnamese Physical Therapists. Dermal Essentials, the elite distributor about your dental care. 090 380 9758 8 Truong Dinh, D3 for Dermalogica, a skin care system 1489 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 3930 6667 researched and developed by The 3776 3777 Tailors Nhut International Dermal Institute in Well-known tailor for men’s business Australian Clinic & Pathology Vietnam. Grand Dentistry and event suits as well as ladies’ Diagnostics 1st floor, unit 9-10 Saigon Center, Grand Dentistry is an upscale dental business wear. Pre-tailored products are The Australian Clinic, Pathology & 65 Le Loi, D1 office located in the ground floor of available in-store. Diagnostics (ACPD) is comprised of a 3910 0372 Sunwah tower on Nguyen Hue street. 232 Le Thanh Ton, D1 medical outpatient clinic and associated It is noted for being very tourist/expat 3822 5338 pathology laboratory. The clinic hosts Stamford Skin Center friendly. This dentistry features English highly trained and experienced medical The Stamford Skin Centre has grown speaking staff and expatriate dentists. Viet Tien Garment Company specialists. to include qualified specialists who Ground Floor Sun Wah Tower, The company was established in 273 - 275 Ly Thai To, D10 treat general diseases of the skin such 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 1976, and has been successfully 3834 9941 as acne, eczema and other forms of 3821 9446 manufacturing garment, textiles and dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis, and skin accessories for fashion industry. Center Medical International cancers. Minh Khai Dental Clinic 178 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Center Medical International is an 254 Dien Bien Phu, D3 French/American/Swiss managed 3829 4350 outpatient clinic fully-equipped 3932 1090 clinic with well-maintained international- to provide international standard 090 845 3338 standard equipment. watches comprehensive and specialized medical 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Nguyen Cu services. All physicians are either Uc Chau Cosmetic Surgery Trinh, D1 French or Vietnamese. This central clinic performs 3925 3399 D & D 1 Han Thuyen, D1 straightforward cosmetic treatments, Purveyors of fine watches on Saigon’s 3827 2365 including enhancing the nose bridge, Saint Paul central strip - one place to go to avoid breast enlargement, eyelid folds, and Saint Paul has facilities all over Ho Chi questionable merchandise. Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic wrinkle removal. Minh City, and with the slogan “slight, 68 Nguyen Hue, D1 Beautiful international clinic a short 25 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 exact, and painless,” the doctors at 093 847 1846 distance from the cathedral, with 2212 3396 Saint Paul aim to please even the most exemplary standards of healthcare for 2212 3398 fastidious patients. Luu Hung Phat walk-in patients. 50 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 There’s no shortage of vendors of 8 Alexandre De Rhodes, D1 Victoria Health Care International 3835 6159 watches in this part of town, but not 3823 8454 Clinic many that can afford a plum spot on the Victoria Healthcare offers the highest Smile Dental Center central district’s richest shopping strip. Diag Center International standard of healthcare, based on Quality dental care with whitening, 56 Dong Khoi, D1 Situated in Ho Chi Minh City, Diag American and European practices, and cleaning, and orthodontic services. 3824 4777 Center International is a diagnostic offering compassionate and efficient Japanese equipment and techniques. 090 380 8909 testing center, which consists of a team service with the greatest respect for the 173 Ton Dat Tien, D7 of thirty Vietnamese staff, and operates patient. 5413 6635 Rhythm Showroom under French medical biologists and 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 An authorized importer and distributor assisted by a group of Vietnamese Starlight Dental Clinic of the Japanese Rhythm brand into medical technicians trained in France. Vietnam Family Medical Practice Award-winning quality care and Vietnam. Rhythm has 16 stores in 146 An Binh, D5 personal service in clean premises, International clinic located in the Manor HCMC; this Tax Building showroom is 3838 1551 offering general dentistry, whitening complex, within easy reach of high- known as Shop Dang Nghi. and cosmetic surgery, implants, rollers living around the Saigon Pearl Ground Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Centre, Hanh Phuc International Women & orthodontics, pediatric, and preventive area. The sister clinic is located beneath 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 Children’s Hospital dentistry. Diamond Plaza. 3821 3891 Hanh Phuc International Hospital aims 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3 Ground Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh to be the leading private healthcare 3822 6222 Thanh Swiss Watch provider for women and children in Straightforward, quality swiss watch Vietnam. Designed and managed up to 3514 0758 Westcoast International Dental Clinic products for the discerning Dong Khoi Singaporean standards, the 260-bed Large, international team of dentists shopper. Hanh Phuc Hospital aims to provide dental and support staff from Canada, 41 Dong Khoi, D1 a comprehensive range of quality Australia, Japan, France, Italy, Thailand, 3827 6126 healthcare services to women and 2000 Dental Clinic Trung Tam Implant and Vietnam. The clinic regularly hosts 091 392 5212 children with a personalized touch and visiting dentists from many other in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Established in 1999, 2000 Dental countries. Tan Tan Watch 2nd floor Saigon Trade Centre, Clinic now has 65 dentists serving 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 Luxury watch retailers selling from a 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 3 locations offering the full range of 3825 7485 shop within the Kimdo Hotel foyer. 3911 1860 dental care, including surgery, implants Selling luxury branded watches such as and extractions. Citizen, Movado, Enicar, Raymond Weil, Institute of Traditional Medicine 125 Le Thi Rieng, D1 hairdressers Frederique Constant, Alfex, Mido, and Established in 1975, the Institute 3925 6501 Tissot - Swiss. of Traditional Medicine is a holistic Art Hair Kimdo Hotel, 133 Nguyen Hue, D1 research and teaching hospital. Patients Dang Luu Dental Centre A small-time local Korean community 3821 8297 are treated using traditional medicines, Dang Luu Dental Centre offers the hairdresser’s with a highly-regarded some of which are produced by the full range of dental services, including service, presenting an ideal opportunity Thanh Phat Watch institute itself. Some doctors speak implants, crown and bridges and teeth to be styled after the fashion of the Thanh Phat Watch is a famous long- English and/or French, and acupuncture whitening. Orthodontic services are also most glamorous country in Asia. standing wholesaler and retailer with many lessons are on offer. provided. Some of the dentists have R4-1 Hung Phuoc Villas, D7 been foreign-trained. t s watch stores throughout the city. They 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan 5410 3154 a specialize in selling high-end watches 3844 5954 34 Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh 090 663 2580 from Switzerland and Japan, such as Rado, 3903 6636 Longiness, Montblanc, and many more. Lotus Clinic Hair Salon Nguyen The Hien Ground Floor Saigon Tax Trade Center, Lotus Clinic was established in 2007 as Digital Dental Clinic Nguyen The Hien is an upscale 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 the first Japanese medical clinic in Ho Digital Dental Care draws on well- Vietnamese hair salon catering to 3821 3231 Chi Minh City. known Korean consistency in service both men and women. Named after Lancaster Bldg , 22 Le Thanh Ton, D1 standards and precision equipment to its award-winning hairdresser and Topten 3827 0000 offer a truly world-class service in the designer, the salon is decked out in Topten has been an exclusive Phu My Hung area. stylish, modern décor. distributor of the luxurious Swiss watch International SOS Medical Care R4-35 Ton Dat Tien, D7 102 Ham Nghi, D1 ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013 brand Tissot since 2006. This outlet is a Located in the city center, the clinic 5412 2276 3821 2275

79 Hairlab nurses. Kelly Pang 3821 3815 Hair salon without a hint of Asia, bright 201B Nguyen Chi Thanh, D5 Nail salon established in 2004 as a 097 810 6868 & clean with all the proper hair-tech on 3855 4137 small nail salon in Phu Nhuan, Kelly the first floor of the Saigon Center. Columbia Asia International Hospital Pang has gradually become known as 1st floor, unit 9-10, Saigon center, - Gia Dinh a training center and professional nail 65 Le Loi, D1 care facility throughout Vietnam. Skilled and experienced doctors 3910 4576 214C Nguyen Trai, D1 093 799 0880 offer exceptional medical care at affordable prices with the latest in 6291 5477 His Salon - Gentleman’s Barbershop medical technology. Patients benefit 012 2805 6789 Popular men’s salon with very good from advanced medical diagnostics, OPI Nail Spa Nguyen Hue service and complimentary beer. treatment and personal care. Providing a full range of official products 29 Le Thanh Ton, D1 1 No Trang Long, Binh Thanh and services of the OPI brand. 3829 9455 3803 0677 Flamingo Spa 103 Nguyen Hue, D1 Flamingo Spa is an Hung Pasteur DialAsie International Hospital 2211 4956 authentic Thai spa This salon offers a complete range of A specialist centre in kidney treatment where all ingredients beauty treatments and services using for the expat community, DialAsie is a used are imported pharmacies from Thailand. Guests quality imported products, drawing in a fairly well-reputed international hospital arrive in a clean and host of local celebrities and wannabes. of nephrology & dialysis, offering friendly atmosphere for an optimal 182 Pasteur, D1 medical consultancy in renal diseases, Curewel International haemodialysis, and paraclinical Involved in marketing and distribution relaxing experience. Men, women and 3823 1118 couples are welcome, and they offer a examinations. of pharmaceuticals, as well as personal 090 391 9375 wide range of massages along with a 253 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Just Men healthcare products, throughout sauna, jacuzzi facilities & VIP rooms. A full-service salon for men. A spa 3930 0828 Southeast Asia, Sri Lanka, and 13B Le Thanh Ton, D1 and salon specializing in the unique Mauritius. 3822 1074 styling and maintenance needs of FV Hospital 49/3 Bis, Tran Quang Khai, D1 091 243 9601 men only. Masculine all-wood interior FV Hospital is a Vietnam’s only 38484493 [email protected] and dark brown Mercedes-style chairs. internationally accredited healthcare Specialising in hair, facial, massage, and facility. A wholly foreign-owned general Pharmacy Nguyen Hue relaxation for men. hospital offering a wide range of Small western medical pharmacy right Glow 40 Ton That Thiep, D1 medical and surgical services under one in the central city CBD area, selling both A boutique day spa located in the heart roof, equipped to care for patients from 3914 1407 domestic and imported medicines. of the city. In this relaxing, peaceful consultation and diagnosis through to 81 Nguyen Hue, D1 atmosphere, guests can enjoy a full the completion of treatment. Kim Hair Salon 3829 3058 range of massage/treatment options. An affordable hair salon in downtown 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Kim Do Hotel, 129A Nguyen Hue, D1 Ho Chi Minh City. The range of services 5411 3334 3823 8368 is focused on different hair treatments, spas but also includes manicures and Hoan My Hospital Golden Lotus Foot Massage Club pedicures. Private hospital with a wide range of Sauna 2B Chu Manh Trinh, D1 specialist areas, running for 15 years on Fully-featured massage establishment 3825 8643 Phan Xich Long. with pool, steam room, and hydraulic 090 823 9011 Private owned hospital, has been run massage located in trendy Thai Van for 15 years Lung. Various salt scrubs, and high-end Masa hair 60-60A Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan beauty products imported direct from Beauty salon, make up, facial care and 3990 2468 Korea are available. hair services – hair treatments and 3995 9862 15 Thai Van Lung, D1 restoring damaged hair. 3822 1515 111 Ham Nghi, D1 Saigon International Maternity 3821 1282 / 093 777 5862 Hospital J.S.C. HP Oxygen Spa A private-owned hospital specialising A safe haven from the dust and smoke My Duyen in maternity, this was the first hospital Indochine Spa of the city offering an array of body/ Nestled in Cutting, perms, combs, hair washing, to meet the Hotel-Hospital international skin treatment options, including the heart and dyeing - full services out of trendy standard in HCMC since the year 2000. advanced skin care, an eye lightening 63 Bui Thi Xuan, D1 of Saigon, process, body massages, hair care, and Thai Van Lung. Indochine spa will bring you back to an 20 Thai Van Lung, D1 3925 3620 foot care. ancient time with peaceful melodies Ground Floor, Yoco Building, 091 927 7126 and aromatic scents. With our skillful 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Traditional Medicine Hospital therapists, Natural products with 3822 1286 The Salon This hospital is a major medical centre French formulation and high class Prominent ladies’ salon & sanctuary - practising the essence of that millennia- cleanness environment, Indochine 093 800 2322 the sister venue to the well-known His old exploration into the rhythms of the spa provides your senses with natural Salon with its touts out on Ton That human body and its connection to the energy. Indulge yourself for a unique Huong Sen Spa Thiep. Services include hairstyling, natural world which firmly belongs to and amazing experience. Located in a charming old French villa, shampoo, hair removal, manicures, and this region. 69 Thu Khoa Huan st., D. 1, HCM Huong Sen Spa is a natural green oasis pedicures. 179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 3827 7188 with skin, face, and body treatment Ladies’ hair & bodycare sanctuary. 3932 6579 [email protected] services. 21S Nguyen Van Troi, Ward 12, Phu Nhuan 64 Ton That Thiep, D1 www.indochine-spa.com.vn 3842 2218 3914 3999 Tu Du Hospital Open: 10:00-22:00 Tu Du is a large state hospital 090 395 1902 Vamp Hairline specializing in maternity, women, and Jasmine Spa Vamp Hair Line is a high-class Japanese children’s diseases, family planning, and An Nam Spa Experienced staff utilize exotic hair salon offering quality hair care many other areas. Highly experienced Housed in a beautiful nine-story skincare products to comfort guests services. doctors and staff provide affordable building with different areas for care. men and women, guests can enjoy in this cozy urban sanctuary, which 9th Floor LANT Building, has has a large, loyal following 284 Cong Quynh, D1 a panoramic view of Saigon while 56-58-60, Hai Ba Trung, D1 that swears by its friendly and 5404 2829 calming their senses in a relaxing 7303 3330 professional service. sanctuary. 012 2768 8614 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Vu Anh International Hospital - 26-28 Dong Du, D1 3827 2737 Obstetrics 3825 1250 hospitals Luxurious hospital facility offering Korean Style Sauna modern care in a comfortable setting. Dermal Essentials Sauna and massage that serves mostly Cao Thang Eye Hospital The hotel also provides 12 VIP rooms Dermalogica, a Los Angeles-based Japanese and Korean men - some of The CT International Eye Hospital is one for patients seeking 5 star medical company, is a revolutionary skin the more discerning expat clients. For a of the few dedicated, comprehensive eye services featuring garden access and treatment system. Call Dermalogica’s delicate touch. institutes in the country. Internationally designer furniture. therapists for a complimentary Face 15 Thai Van Lung, D1 recognized staff diagnose and treat the 15-16 Phan Van Tri, Go Vap Mapping consultation. 3822 1515 3989 4989 entire spectrum of conditions of the eye, 108 Pasteur, D1 t s including complex problems such as 3910 2038 L’Apothiquaire - Saigon South a diabetic retinopathy, retinal detachments, nails This Japanese/French style spa is an macular degeneration, glaucoma, and Eden Spa exclusive distributor of organic French cataracts. Extremely central, Eden is located skin care products, and other exclusive 135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 118 Nail & Beauty in a quiet niche off Nguyen Hue in products from around the world. 090 588 6086 118 Nail and Beauty is a salon and spa the commercial center. Owing to its 1st floor, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Tan Phu, D7 providing full services including oil, hot 5413 6638 Cho Ray Hospital stone, foot and body massages, along expertise in skincare and first-class Cho Ray Hospital is the largest with skin/nail care. relaxing atmosphere, Eden has the La Cochinchine Spa healthcare service in Vietnam, providing 118 Pasteur, D1 gumption to claim a number-one spot full priority service for expatriates, with 3821 5313 in the discerning Japanese market. Located in the Rex Hotel, this luxury a staff including 696 doctors and 1350 090 372 8338 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 spa and fitness centre combined with a ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013

80 swimming pool and bar has a particular and skincare products formulated boats, situated next to the Oscar Hotel. style that is a combination of Vietnamese, from botanicals derived by combining Fine model ships & boats French, Cham, Hindu, and Asian cultures. the art of natural therapy with modern 68 Nguyen Hue, D1 Luxury spa and gym located at the Rex dermatological science. 3822 0280 hotel. Level 2, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 6F, Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 098 362 4497 Huong Nga Fine Art 3825 1812 Huong Nga designs, manufactures [email protected] Thalgo La Beaute Marine and sells high quality arts and crafts www.lacochinchine-hcm.net Thalgo is on the cutting edge of spa products in Vietnam and around the 12pm-10:30pm treatments, and is renowned for its world. products and skilled therapists. 41 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 La Maison de L’Apothiquaire 40C Ly Tu Trong, D1 3823 8356 This unique spa is situated in an 3824 4990 Blue Dragon artfully-designed villa and offers 090 360 6366 Oi’s Pick Loang Xoang guests many therapeutic body and Blue Dragon designs ‘recycled’ fashion Owned by a husband and wife skin treatments. The luxurious villa The Body Shop and décor. Eco-friendly bags, jewelry, glasswork artist team, they mainly sell also provides a yoga studio, enclosed A global manufacturer and retailer of and home accessories made of feed- their creations through their website, garden, and many exclusive skin care naturally-inspired, ethically-produced sacks, rubber, billboard and paper. Facebook page, and at the monthly products. beauty and cosmetics products. The 1B Bui Vien, D1 handicrafts fair. 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Body Shop offers many kinds of 2210 2084 232/8/6 Ba Hat, D10 3932 5181 090 855 6665 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 skincare products, makeup accessories, 9am - 10pm 3822 2158 hair & body care products, perfume, and 1st floor, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Tan Phu, D7 bath milk. 5413 6638 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Cao Lien Huong 3823 5318 Artistic & traditional handicrafts on MiMi Clinic & Spa Saigon’s heritage street. Prestige Spa for celebrities holding The Prime – Spa For Men 49 Dong Khoi, D1 frequent beauty events – and therefore American skin treatments for men 3521 0445 one of the best-known local brands in from top brands such as Dermalogica 091 806 0608 medical aesthetics for over 10 years in and Lab Series. Equipped with HCMC. imported machines from Europe. CD Paragon Leather - Caodong 32 Dong Khoi, D1 The spa has five therapy services, Boutique 2 090 387 6666 including basic skin care, professional Attractive leather souvenirs & skin care, intensive therapy, eye handicrafts MEKONG QUILTS Miu Miu therapy, body therapy – and a Prime Ground Floor, Saigon Centre, Spa with an elegant and charming special service package. 65 Le Loi, D1 They produce high décor, offering facials, body 192 Le Lai, D1 3915 1778 quality, hand-crafted massages, and manicures. Pervaded 3925 5743 bed covers, baby by exotic oils and aromas, the staff Chon Nhan Production & Trading quilts, accessories and giftware. provide counsel on unique skin-care Tri Siam Chon Nhan Production & Trading 1st floor, 68 Le Loi, D1 products from Thailand and around Well-respected salon on the edge of specializes in making high grade S17-Sky Garden 1, the world in English, Vietnamese, town, offering manicures & styling. fine art, especially bamboo works, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 and Japanese. 76C Hai Ba Trung, D1 oil paintings, lacquering, and carved 6271 7758 4 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 3823 2554 furniture. They have experience in www.mekong-quilts.org 6659 3609 interior design and handmade crafts. 9am-7pm Xuan Spa 70D Nguyen Hue, D1 One of the most luxurious spas in Ho 3667 0341 Chi Minh City, Xuan is located inside 090 383 8355 MH Craft the five-star Park Hyatt hotel. Services The shop has a collection of fine include packages such as Urban Retreat Du Du handicrafts, artworks, furniture, and Package, Apricot blossom – Mai, One of Saigon’s higher-class souvenir all kinds of knick-knacks made from Bamboo, and more. shops. Vietnamese traditional materials such 2 Lam Son Square, D1 78 Dong Khoi, D1 as egg shells, buffalo horns, bamboo, 3824 1234 38276128 Yuan white clay, lacquer, and more. Despite being labeled as a foot Em Em 33 Ton That Thiep, D1 Moc Huong Spa massage establishment, Yuan actually Bright, unusual souvenir shop with 3915 2913 Moc Huong Spa has a full range of services. Customers high-quality ethnic fashion accessories 090 382 7471 is supported usually make appointments. Yuan is unavailable elsewhere. Special figurines by top-ranking especially geared towards Japanese and a tailoring service are also available. Ngan Quang Wooden Boats professional expats. 38 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Sells model-size wooden boats. physiotherapists 15B8 Le Thanh Ton, D1 3829 4408 74/1 Hai Ba Trung, D1 who combine Eastern with Western 3825 0795 3829 1814 techniques resulting a full body Em Oi 091 822 9272 wellness. Reasonably priced with a Yves Rocher Botanical Beauty Spa Funky souvenir shop with a twist, wide range of services that include selling original designer T-shirts, A famous international botanical Nguyen Freres - Fine Furnishing manicure, pedicure, facial, handmade jewelry, recycled bags, and cosmetic brand with a full range of Spacious furniture establishment both body and for your hand-crafted leather products. products, The Botanical Beauty Spa selling handmade goods of silk, complete well being less. 124d Le Loi, D1 9C Ton Duc Thang, D1 Center combines the expertise of its mother-of-pearl, stone, brick, bronze, 3911 7118 beauticians with the efficacy of Yves Ethnic Folk Art Anh silver, indigo, wood, lacquer along with Rocher treatments. Fine ethnic folk products, mostly hand- Buddha figurines, carved wooden 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 screens, ceramic decorations, red Oasis Salon & Spa made embroidered cloths, accessories 3824 8782 and statues carved from horns and lacquered boxes, water puppets, and The original Oasis spa & beauty salon, lacquered statues. this venue offers a full range of services bones. Zest Massage 2 Dong Khoi, D1 at competitive prices. Full hair care, Lot B1-C11-C12 2nd Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Famous for its fish pedicures, Zest, 3823 9459 facial, massage, nail spa, beauty care & Center, 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 located in the outer western region 3821 3716 waxing services. of District One, serves up some fairly 1st & 2nd Floor, 45 Nguyen Hue, D1 090 360 7527 Nhu Y Oriental Lacquerwares dynamic Thai massage. Nhu y provides coasters, tissue boxes, 3821 6469 60 Bui Thi Xuan, D1 090 337 0507 Fatima Shop wine bottle holders and boxes, cabinets, 6291 6835 1st & 2nd Floor, 92 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Fatima shop is manufacturer, frames, plates, trays, vases, and many 3821 6469 wholesaler and retailer of customer other items with unusual designs 090 337 0507 art & crafts handicrafts, lacquerware, embroidery spattered with lacquer dots. goods, and silverware souvenirs. 22 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 Saigon Spa Art Arcade 3 Ton That Thiep, D1 3829 6138 Recommended inexpensive spa 3914 2403 treatments with a full spa menu. Art Arcade displays a wide range t s of original Vietnamese artwork in a Paper Paradise a Gia Gia 1st Floor, 47 Dong Khoi, D1 Funky little retailer selling just about charming passageway off of Dong Khoi. One of Vietnam’s leading manufacturer 6650 4806 anything relating to paper and paper 151 Dong Khoi, D1 and distributor of products made Sense Spa 3824 4076 from precious stones. Range includes arts. 19 Do Quang Dau, D1 Sense Spa is a massage, skin, and body paintings, jewelry, precious stones used care haven with a plethora of high-end Beeline for medicinal purposes and fashion 091 597 8896 imported creams, lotions, and serums. Small shop with cute stuffs. Special products. 54 Dong Du, D1 traditional hand-embroidered bags, 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Phuong Mai Gallery 6299 0964 shoes, clothes, and souvenirs. 3823 5384 Phuong Mai Art Gallery focuses on 60-62 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 the contemporary art works of both Thann 3822 2364 Hai Yen up & coming and established artists ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013 Thann provide a range of natural hair 155 Dong Khoi, D1 Sells fully-rigged model ships and from across Vietnam. The real deal in a

81 district of mass-produced art retailers. other products such as photocopiers, Unit 16-17, 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 experience for decades. Customers 129B Le Thanh Ton, D1 fax machines, and photo printers. Le Loi, D1 can choose from food carts, clothing 3823 3181 103 Tran Hung Dao, D1 3914 3553 services, textiles, and fresh fruits and 3837 1066 vegetables. Busy old-style market Saigon Kitsch Mosaique Decoration with impressive architecture, selling Historic socialist pop-art culture Lioa Electrics & Electronics Mosaique Decoration takes all the a great selection of fabrics and is printed on t-shirts, coffee mugs, Hardware mart for power unique beauty and craftsmanship of seafood. coasters and a raft of other goodies components,electrical appliances, and Vietnam and adapts it to contemporary 48 Ma Lo, Tan Dinh, District 1 creating cool gifts for folks back home - lighting systems. LiOA has more than home décor. Mosaique offers unique or expats home in HCMC. 20 years of experience as the largest lighting design, decorative embroidery, War Surplus Market (Dan Sinh 43 Ton That Thiep, D1 automatic stabilizer manufacturer in silk quilts, and other home accessories. Market) Oi’s Pick Vietnam. 093 590 5675 Ground Floor, Saigon Centre, Dan Sinh is known as the army surplus 138 Yersin, D1 65 Le Loi, D1 market. Located just 5 minutes from Sapa Crafts & Fashion Saigon Photo Center 3821 7233 the backpacker area and city center, it Established in 1996, the shop sells specializes in selling war surplus and Saigon Photo Center has been clothes and bags reflecting the style of military style clothing and items. It is also providing an extensive range of Premium Housewares the picturesque village in the northern a good market for electronics and other photography services since 1991. They Providing high quality kitchenware and region of Vietnam after which it is types of imported industrial machinery. offer services such as photo printing, accessories, Premium Housewares named. digital inkjets, equipment trading, presents its products in more than 70 104 Yersin, D1 7 Ton That Thiep, D1 camera sale, and equipment rental. countries worldwide. 090 244 1256 114 bis Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 77 Pasteur, D1 supermarkets SoCoLa Boutique 3825 8735 3824 7504 Unique souvenir items and crafts in an Maydocsach eBook Readers Red Door Décor Annam Gourmet off-beat retail space. Highly unusual Vietnamese distributors of Kindle and A well-known furniture store in Ho Chi An upmarket deli-grocery chain offering trinkets. Nook eBook readers, including e-ink Minh City offering products such as gourmet groceries, cheese, organic 39/4 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 screen and color LCD versions. Providing interior/exterior decorations, artwork, products, gluten-free products, fruit and 3822 1839 free Vietnamese language eBooks. handicrafts, glass ceramics, garments, vegetables, gourmet deli, wine and other 149/2 Le Thi Rieng, D1 and textile materials. beverages. Features a deli café serving books & magazines 6678 4542 31A Le Thanh Ton, D1 coffee, wine and foods. Regular shoppers 3825 8672 can benefit from a loyalty card program. Son Ha 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Cua Hang Van Phong Pham They sell products such as TVs, Karaoke SB Furniture 3822 9391 Large stationery shop with paints and and stage systems, soundproofing, MP3 SB Furniture is an award-winning supplies for artists, this is the place to players, refrigeration, and appliances. furniture store with a reputation for Sieu Thi Tax Supermarket come for art paper, easels, paints and 41 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 excellent service and attention to detail. General supermarket in the centrally- 3923 1938 brushes. They specialize in products made located Tax Building. 54 Le Loi, D1 with artificial wood, and cabinets for 1st Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Centre, home & furnishings apartments and villas. 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 Fahasa Unit 8-10, 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, One of the largest book distributors in 65, Le Loi, D1 Vietnam with 35 years of operations, AA Deco Company wine & liquor Fahasa provides a wide range of books AA Interiors provides high-quality – including English titles – from local fabrication and fit-out services for markets Bacchus Corner hotels, residences, spas, and so on to translated editions, as well as CDs, Bachhus imports from most of the throughout the city. Also sells many videos, puzzles and stationery. world’s wine regions and supplies well-known furniture brands. An Dong Market 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 wholesale and retail customers. It 219 Nguyen Van Thu, D1 This boisterous wet market beneath 60-62 Le Loi, D1 encourages wine tasting in its Pasteur 3823 0940 the Caesar Hotel. Customers can find store using the unique Enomatic food carts, bulk raw ingredients, shoes, Nam Phong bookstore system, and staff are skilled in advising AkzoNobel Decorative Center sandals, jeans, shirts, and many other A second-hand bookstore specializing on wine matches with food. Dulux Paints specialist with attractive goods. in French literature, selling mainly 158D Pasteur, D1 central-city showroom/store. 36 An Duong Vuong, D5 novels and nonfiction titles with a 91-93 Nguyen Hue, D1 3829 3306 selection of second-hand folio editions. 3915 3491 Ba Chieu Market The website is in French only, with a Beer Plaza An old market hosting nearly built-in searchable database of all titles Beer Plaza has an extensive range Authentique 800 independent businesses in available. of international beers in stock. An interior decorating shop featuring central Binh Thanh district, famous 94 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Connoisseurs will be pleased to find all Vietnamese traditional styles with a throughout the city for its rich and 3914 7859 of their favorite varieties of beer along small showroom in the busiest area of diverse commodities. Fresh Food, the city, with unique glassware. groceries, crockery, household Parker & Waterman 71/1 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 94-96 Le Lai, D1 appliances, textiles, and apparel. A specialist luxury pens counter in the 3823 8811 091 816 6809 foyer of the Bitexco Financial Tower, Second hand clothing available at This Parker & Waterman outlet sells Canada Home Deco Company cheap rates. Boutique Cellar precision-crafted pens with gold & Established by an expat Canadian 40 Dien Hong, Binh Thanh All about wine, lots and lots of platinum finishes. couple in 2003, Canada Home Deco wine. Priding itself in being the sole Ground Floor Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, D1 specializes in distributing high-quality Ben Thanh Market distributors of premium wineries around 6291 8739 blankets, pillows, bedspreads, and Saigon’s most iconic tourist attraction, the world. cushions. this Vietnamese souvenir bazaar is 11 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Phuong Nam Book 158 Hai Ba Trung, D1 busy, hot, and full of most everything With a system of over 30 bookstores in 3822 3430 you’ll need to pick up to prove you’ve Shop Thai Duong Ho Chi Minh City, PNB sells & publishes been to Vietnam - you can also stock Beer, wine, & spirits importers. hundreds of foreign-language titles. The Catherine Denoual up on your entire quota of presents Previously known as Tan Mai. Saigon Center store also has a wide Supplies blankets, pillows, mattresses, for family and friends here. 54 Ham Nghi, D1 range of children’s books. tablecloths, cushions, and other luxury Quach Thi Trang Square, D1 3821 5398 Level 2, Saigon Center, linens to reputable hotels, spas, resorts, 65 Le Loi, D1 and individual consumers. Binh Tay (Cholon) Market The Warehouse 15C Thi Sach, D1 3915 1475 Binh Tay Market is the largest market in A premium wine importer, distributor, 3823 9394 Saigon located in an elegant building of and retailer supplying wines from JB Oriental Heritage Chinese design in Cho Lon. The market all over the world, the Warehouse electronics & camera caters mostly to wholesale trade, but also offers spirits, wine accessories, Unique Kashmiri products stocked also offers household items, makeup, glassware and refrigeration to Bose Showroom in a plush retail space in the Saigon and beauty products. Center, JB Oriental Heritage sells fine complement their customers’ Le Tan Ke, Ward 2, D6 Something of a connoisseur’s choice, a imported Asian products, including choices. look through this showroom in the Tax carpets and exotic rugs, handicrafts, 178 Pasteur, D1 t s Tan Binh Market a Building will demonstrate some fairly and objets d’art. 3824 6629 Products here are targeted towards the impressive speaker and sound system Unit 20, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 090 921 0014 equipment. 3821 2892 locals, so don’t expect to see luxurious Ground Floor Saigon Tax Trade Center, or high-end products. The prices can’t Vinifera 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 Lam Bui Natural Home Goods be beaten though. Bargain to your Established in 2002, Vinifera is one 3821 5944 Founded in 2004 by a team of heart’s content. of the most reliable wine distribution intrepid entrepreneurs, Lam Bui Le Minh Xuan, Ward 8, Tan Binh companies in Vietnam.Offering Canon Vinh Hung Natural Home Goods is a large, prestigious wines from around the Canon Vinh Hung has over 15 years well-stocked home goods store with Tan Dinh Market world at a a great value. of experience providing the citizens of specialty old-style furnishings and Tan Dinh Market has been providing 15C7 Thi Sach, D1

Saigon with quality Canon cameras and decor items. Saigon with a thriving market 3822 1141 ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013

82 Business & Tech IMAGE BY LEE STARNES

83 LEGAL EASE legal Column

Dear Hadrien, I recently bought a new HD television in a big electronics store. At home, I installed it and watched a DVD. But after two hours, the screen went black and I couldn’t get it to work again. When I found out that not only the TV, but now also my DVD player is defective, I went back to the store. IMAGE BY N a m Qu an IMAGE However, they told me that they would not give me A member of the Paris Bar, Hadrien Wolff has been practicing law in Vietnam for six years, currently as a partner of Audier & a refund and I could not complain because the invoice Partners. He specializes in banking and corporate law, regularly clearly states that the shop shall not be liable for advising major foreign banks and assisting foreign investors in setting up joint venture companies with Vietnamese partners in any damage from the use of their products. Is that sensitive sectors such as media, power and natural resources really true? The TV cost me almost VND18 million!

In Vietnam, consumers are protected or that restrict or exclude the consumer’s court proceedings, a simplified civil procedure under the law on protection of consumers’ right to complain are invalid. So even if the can be followed in which the burden of proof rights of 2010. This law covers a broad store’s invoice contains such a clause, it has rests largely with the trader and in which the range of issues, such as the protection of no merit. consumer shall not be obliged to pay the court consumer information and the obligations Now that you know about your rights as charges and fees in advance. of the State relating to consumer rights’ a consumer in Vietnam, the next question In practice, the last option may not seem protection. It also includes a list of is how to enforce those rights when the very attractive to you. Indeed, the material prohibited behavior of organizations other party isn’t cooperative. The law and financial damage that you suffered may and individuals towards consumers and provides for a dispute resolution procedure, not be worth the costs and especially the it contains some detailed provisions on including a few different options. The first, time that it would take to start arbitration dispute resolution. most informal, option is negotiation. As a or court proceedings. My advice would Under this law, a “consumer” is “a consumer, you have the right to request the therefore be to try one more time to get person who purchases or uses goods store to enter into negotiations with you in touch with the store where you bought and/or services for personal use, family about your complaint and the store shall be your TV. Make an appointment with the use or for the use of organizations,” the legally obliged to receive you and to negotiate manager or write him a letter. Explain electronics shop where you bought your with you for a maximum of seven days after clearly what happened, what you expect TV would qualify as an “organization your request. The second option involves the from him and, if you feel this is appropriate trading goods for profit on the Vietnamese assistance of a mediator to be selected upon and needed, share your knowledge about market”. Finally, a “defective good,” which the agreement of both parties. These first two your rights as a consumer in Vietnam. Good is an important term in your case, is options shall not be open to you in case the chance they will suddenly be much more defined as “a good that does not ensure dispute causes damage to the interest of the willing to work with you towards a possible safety to consumers and that is likely to State, the interest of many consumers or to solution. Another option, which you may cause damage to lives, health and property the public interest. Further, you may opt for have already tried, is to see whether your of consumers even though such goods are arbitration in accordance with the Vietnamese TV is still under manufacturer’s warranty. manufactured in accordance with current Law on Commercial Arbitration. The final Good luck! technical standard norms, with no defects and most formal way to resolve the dispute If you have any legal questions you want being detected at the time the goods were would be to start a civil case in court. Often, answered, send them to legal@oivietnam. supplied to the consumer”. when a consumer takes this final step to start com The law on protection of consumers’ rights makes it clear that a trading organization, such as the store where you bought your TV, shall be liable for damages in case any defective good supplied by them causes damage to life, health and property. It doesn’t matter whether or not the store knew about the defect or whether or not the defect was caused by them. Only if they can prove that the defect of the good could not be detected with scientific and technical knowledge at the time of selling the product to you, could they be exempted from the obligation to pay damages. From your question, it seems that the store is trying to use its general trading conditions to reject your claim for compensation and to send you back home empty-handed. Again, the law is very clear about this. According to Article 16, general trading conditions that exclude liability of trading organizations towards consumers

84 FOUND 404 TechNOLOGY Column

Pay it Forward IMAGE BY na m q u an IMAGE Taking mobile payment in Anh-Minh Do is the editor at TechInAsia.com for Vietnam focusing on technology startups, trends and Vietnam to the next level companies. Minh also organizes events at Evecoo.vn

With the telco’s cut – sometimes telcos take up to a 40 percent cut on mobile purchases – Quang also thinks 1Pay can leverage. “1Pay aims to provide telco payment with some special connection then merchants can receive more, compared to the current ratio for prepaid cards, merchant can receive 85 percent in the near future. 1Pay can provide SMS charging where merchants can get 55 percent, compared to the 45 percent currently.” It’s not clear yet how 1Pay plans to do that, but with its background in affiliate mobile games, it’s possible. The company, founded in early 2011, has over 25,000 media networks, and works with over 25 local mobile game studios. In one day, mWorks ships over one million downloads, and has over 50,000 successful installs. 1Pay plans to reach USD15 million in billing in 2015. Suffice it to say, mWork has the resources to push 1Pay forward. Despite the above stats, they are still going to have a hard time. Since they’re first to market, they’ll have to educate customers, provide guidelines, demo codes, and a sandbox for merchants. They also partner up with companies like Appota, one of Vietnam’s hottest mobile distribution platforms. 1Pay may also free up markets for With smartphones on the rise and payments for either utilities or e-commerce companies like Biitbook.vn (mobile the digital payment platform still a black related goods. 1Pay saw the need for ebook distribution), Terrabook (mobile hole, will 1Pay become the PayPal of Asia? people to buy things (both digital and non) education platform), and other young 1Pay from Vietnam seems to think so. The through their smartphones. or large startups that are working on startup, formed earlier this year, is focused bringing mobile content to users. Up on making payments for digital goods Don’t Cash It In Yet until now, a lack of options to pay for using your smartphone a reality here. There are several problems that 1Pay is digital goods has generally held back The basic idea is that merchants can facing as it tackles this new market. These growth in Vietnam’s digital goods go to the 1Pay’s website (https://1pay. include: the mobile market is still not industry. For e-commerce, and daily deals, vn/), create an account, thus giving as big as the overall market, telcos still the infrastructure is already there for them access to the API key and SDK to take a hefty cut out of mobile payments, shipping and cash-on-delivery, but if I integrate payment via mobile for their and there aren’t that many digital goods want to start an education platform like games, content, or mobile apps. It allows yet (the pot is small). But Nguyen Minh Udemy, the only way to pay is through a customers to pay by SMS, online, and Quang, overseas business director and bank transfer or credit card, both modes through prepaid cards for purchases co-founder at 1Pay, technically a subsidiary slow to rise in Vietnam. through their mobile. Basically, you can of mWork, one of Vietnam’s biggest mobile Ultimately, time will tell how 1Pay buy things on your smartphone in Vietnam game affiliate networks, is optimistic. meets these challenges and expands its now with 1Pay, and merchants can check “We focus on supporting our merchant platform. Quang says it’s looking at “both and collect all their sales in a dashboard to sell digital contents like games, apps, domestic and overseas, to do business on provided by 1Pay. music, etc. The volume of this market in mobile and get back their money”. It’s one of the first startups in this Vietnam is huge and we want to be the “We also want to contribute to the rise sector, where most other payment startups pioneer in providing telco payments for of mobile digital industry in Vietnam to like Payoo, NganLuong, 123pay, OnePay, this through our online and automatic facilitate the best payment solution for and Mobivi just focus mainly on online platform,” he says. developers and content providers.”

85 MONEY TALKS FINANCE Column y tti n g l an m a Dear Afonso,

I'm an expat living here and plan to retire here BY q ui nn ry IMAGE Afonso Vieira is an investment manager and financial planner. He as well. I've been working in Vietnam for the is licensed by the Financial Planning Association of Singapore. past 10 years but want to know how I can I put money away for retirement when I hit 65. Is there a private pension plan in Vietnam and if so how does it work? I'm 36 now.

are several: the contract is in dong only; the minimum guaranteed return is five percent per year, below the seven percent you can get in a simple risk-free term-deposit; investment performance is entirely dependent on one single investment manager performance, BaoViet Fund; investments are not diversified (100 percent Vietnam); it is expensive (four percent per year and above); it is not protected against fraud and/or bankruptcy by the State Bank of Vietnam; part of the money (the life insurance component) cannot be used until you reach the 90 years of age minimum; it is a long-term contract, if your circumstances change and you need to withdraw part of the money there are penalties. The second product that has been developed is unit-linked insurance. Similar to whole life insurance, it is a type of insurance vehicle that allows for the coverage of an insurance policy, and provides the option to invest in any number of qualified investments, such as mutual funds. Let’s look at Manulife Vietnam's unit-link product. The advantages and disadvantages are similar to HSBC/BaoViet’s whole life universal. Congratulations for having a insurance. The main points to note are that clear vision of where you will be in the year Take for instance the whole life insurance Manulife’s Regular Premium Unit Linked 2042. Most people, especially expats, have sold by HSBC Vietnam, in partnership doesn’t have a minimum guaranteed no idea where they will be at the end of with BaoViet insurance, called Whole Life return, and that there are three choices of 2014, let alone in three decades. Universal. It is a contract that has two mutual funds with different risk levels. Regarding private pension plans in components: investment and insurance. The Now, a personal story. At present Vietnam, I assume you are using the same insurance coverage of the contract holder I work in three countries (Vietnam, definition as me - a type of retirement plan is for almost his/her entire life. Unlike term Singapore and China) and that should not wherein an employer and/or an employee life insurance, which covers the contract change during this decade. I am 40 this makes contributions towards a pool of holder until a specified age limit, a whole month, married to a mainland Chinese, funds set aside for the employee's future life policy almost never runs out (in this one young Chinese born son. Most benefit. The funds are then invested on specific case, until the 90th birthday of probably we will spend our retirement the employee's behalf (investment/risk the contract holder, or later). Upon the years in the south of France, Italy, Spain decisions taken by the employee and/or the inevitable death of the contract holder, the or Portugal (and in case we can’t afford employer), allowing the employee to receive insurance payout is made to the contract's Europe, Southeast Asia it will be). Where benefits upon retirement at a pre-set age. beneficiaries. This policy also includes an do I have my retirement savings? In the The straight answer is that there aren’t investment component, which accumulates UK. And I can tell you with 100 percent any private pension plans in Vietnam. But a cash value that the policyholder can certainty that I will not retire in the UK. in the past three years several companies withdraw or borrow against. My recommendation is to start have developed insurance related products The advantage of whole life is the thinking that the country you will spend that are sometimes commercialized as insurance component. It can be used to your retirement years may not be the private pension plans. There are mainly protect your husband/wife/kids if the same country where you have your two: whole life insurance, and unit-linked worst happens to you. The disadvantages retirement savings.

86 The List

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88 The Outer Districts IMAGE BY JAMES PHAM

89 District 2 feature The Simple Life Across the river but in another world, life is simpler in Thanh Da Text and images by James Pham

Thanh Da is to locals what Thao Dien is to with the usual restaurants (including duck but most still dirt paths leading to simple expats - an oasis of greenery cooled by river rice porridge for which Thanh Da is known), dwellings surrounded by lush green fields. To breezes, an escape from the urban reality that beauty salons and the one lonely KFC, quickly the uninitiated, it's mind bending to find rice is Ho Chi Minh City. turns into two narrow lanes where shops are paddies and fish ponds just five miles from Set on more than 1,200 acres (500 just as likely to sell simple bamboo poles, the city center. hectares), Thanh Da is actually an island hooks and floats as they are more traditional (but usually referred to as a "peninsula" by household goods. Other than the apartment Mekong Delta Doppelganger most Vietnamese) located in Binh Thanh blocks to either side as you cross over into It is in fact this surreal bilocation that brings District to the northeast of the city, with Thu Thanh Da, most of the houses are only one or the locals to Thanh Da. For instance, if you Duc across the river to the north and Thao two-story, in contrast to the high-rises visible can't make it out to the Cao Dai Holy See in Dien to the south. Other than at the Saigon on the other side of the river that hugs three Tay Ninh, famously described by Graham Domaine Luxury Residences where many of sides of the island. Greene in The Quiet American as "Christ and the long-term tenants travel to work in D1 by Maps usually show the one main road, Buddha looking down from the roof of a speedboat, foreigners are rarely seen here. Binh Quoi, but only a small fraction of the cathedral on a Walt Disney Fantasia of the Currently connected to the rest of the city labyrinthine unnamed paths that make up the East, dragons and snakes in Technicolor," by a singular, newly constructed bridge, the interior of the island, some concreted to about there is a small Cao Dai temple about halfway island, sometimes called the "lung of the the size of a large sidewalk, where traffic jams down the main road that has served the city" is an anomaly. The four lane road lined are most likely caused by pigs and ducks, area's faithful for more than 40 years. Men

90 and women take separate winding staircases up to see the colorful room dedicated to God the Father, or pay homage to the Mother Buddha in an adjoining building. Visitors are welcome to any of the four daily services, but especially on the first of January, July and October, when a vegetarian feast is prepared and up to 200 local devotees show up. "Cao Dai combines the best of all religions," says Hong, this branch's treasurer. "People sometimes don't do right by their religion, but in essence, all religion is good," she says by way of explaining the syncretic aspect of Vietnam's largest homegrown religion which combines the teachings of Jesus, Confucius and Buddha, all presided over by the Divine Eye. But the most obvious comparisons are drawn between Thanh Da and the Mekong Delta. Here, it is a case of water, water, everywhere. Besides the every-shade-of- green carpets of rice fields that checker the island, many houses maintain ponds stocked with fish for home use or for pleasure fishing. Some of the canals are even wide enough to accommodate large boats. Area businesses have been quick to jump on the eco bandwagon, many with variations of nha la (grass hut) in their names. The three government-owned Binh Quoi Tourist Villages unabashedly embrace every country stereotype onto their well-manicured properties, ranging from water wheels and thatched shacks to monkey bridges and handicraft stalls, making them a magnet for Viet Kieus seeking to revive their country roots and couples posing for wedding photos. But the real beauty of Thanh Da lies off the main road and in the many unmarked paths towards the island's interior. Gone Fishing It shouldn't come as a surprise that fishing is Thanh Da's most popular pastime. On both sides of the main road, man-made ponds and pools beckon anglers looking to catch butterfish, and carp. Shrimp fishing in oxygenated one meter deep pools, surrounded by plastic chairs with poles at the ready, is also popular. Prices vary but average around VND100,000 per hour for shrimp and VND20,000 to VND100,000 for fish depending on how well stocked the pond is. All prices allow for keeping whatever you catch, either to be brought home or cooked to order on site. Deeper into the island are larger fishing ponds in more natural surrounds. One of the biggest is A Xay, four acres of pond ringed by thatched huts and hammocks. On a Monday afternoon, Minh, 58, is one of only four fishermen with positions staked out around the enormous pond. Delivery man by morning, Minh spends seven days out of seven fishing in various spots around the city. "Thanh Da is really peaceful during the week," he says. "On the weekends, there's a lot of city people, families, teens, so it gets too busy. On weekends, I'm normally tournament

91 fishing anyway." Many of these fishing ponds arrange weekend competitions to boost attendance, with a buy-in of as little as VND100,000. Whoever catches the biggest fish by the end of the session walks away with a VND1.1 million cash prize. "Some of the larger places even award prizes every hour as well as at the end of the day," says Minh as he carefully molds three balls of putrid rice onto a leader. "This is my secret recipe. It's rice that has gone bad, but mixed with Knorr seasoning, Laughing Cow cheese and coconut powder. These fish are picky eaters and you'd think this would smell bad, but after it's all mixed up, it actually smells pretty good!" Minh has a couple of dozen variations on his recipe depending on the fish he's after and whether he's fishing in still or moving water. He postulates that because pond owners typically feed their fish leftover rice andpho "Everyone knows everyone here. We gathered from restaurants around the city, they've grown accustomed to the taste of may not know the house numbers, but if rotting rice. As we talk, he suddenly hooks a 2kg you tell me someone's name or who their . When asked if he'll have it for dinner, he grimaces. "I am so sick of eating fish. My father is or what their job is, I'll point fridge is full of them. Just looking at it, I feel like I'm going to turn into a catfish." Instead, you straight to their house" he sells whatever he catches to his neighbors, to lottery ticket sellers and whoever else wanders past his house. "In the market,

92 catfish goes for VND40,000 a kilo. I sell it to His corner of Thanh Da is a place where Locals wonder whether three more bridges them for VND20,000 or to restaurants for everyone has an address, but no one really connecting Thanh Da to Thu Duc, Thao Dien VND25,000. I just need enough money to go pays much attention to it. "Everyone knows and Rach Gia in D2 will ever materialize. fishing again tomorrow." everyone here. We may not know the house "I've heard that talk for the last 20-30 numbers, but if you tell me someone's name years," says Hang, a long-time Thanh Da Living Off the Land or who their father is or what their job is, I'll resident. "That's why it's so hard for us Hanh typifies the families of Thanh Da who point you straight to their house." to build anything. That just means the have a palpable salt of the earth quality to government will have to compensate people them. One of 15 children, his family has been A Last Refuge more if they ever decide to develop this land. here for three generations. "Each of us has Thanh Da has changed a lot in the last So now we have to build surreptitiously. If our own plot," he says of his 12 remaining couple of decades. Nguyet, a real estate the police see you carting in a load of bricks, brothers and sisters. A driver by day, he tends prospector and 20-year resident recalls that they'll come asking questions, for sure. We're to his rice paddy on his off days. "We grow Thanh Da used to be a Wild West of sorts, in construction limbo. Grown children who enough for our family to eat throughout the known for seedy bia om (beer garden) joints get married can't build on their parents' land. year. We also raise chicken and ducks," he and after-dark activities. Even if we spend two to three years getting says as his son tosses bread into the small "You wouldn't dare go out on the streets the right paperwork to build, we don't know pond by his home that is fed by the Saigon after 8pm," she remembers. "But it's been if we'll be compensated fairly for it if they River. The family catches their own fish cleaned up now. Cafes have replaced the ever take over the island." whenever they want and raise fish for market bia om places. Families have come in. It's Nguyet agrees. "I only deal with buying in the small pond across the dirt path. become gentrified. Years ago, when the and selling apartments because with the We walk past his fruit trees - mango, government decided to privatize state-owned interior of the island, you never know what's jackfruit, grapefruit - to his house in the apartments, you could buy a small flat for going to happen." back, a modest one story affair with just just over VND20 million. Now a 40-year-old, Hanh, for one, hopes that day never enough rooms for him, his wife and two boys. 67 square meter apartment goes for more comes. "We've lived here since forever. I While he lives simply, he lives with the ease than VND2 billion." can't imagine living anywhere else." of a man who owns his own land. There's a Thanh Da's future remains unknown, Thanh Da's extensive network of small, koi pond out back and the largest room in though. There has been talk for years of flat paved paths with very little traffic the house is dedicated to ancestor worship. investors making high-rises out of the makes it an ideal area to explore by bicycle. "That's pretty common here. Everyone has more than two dozen apartment blocks in Friendly locals can always point you back one. It's not like in the city where people go the area. Flashy plans of a multi-billion to the main road. A leisurely 10km biking to court if their neighbor encroaches on their dollar supercity surface every few years tour covering some of the spots mentioned land by a few centimeters. We have a lot of complete with ambitious talk of universities, here can be booked through Exotissimo by room to move around." exhibition space and entertainment facilities. visiting www.exotissimo.com.

93 The Syllabus EDUCATION Column The Pygmalion Effect, Part 1

The obstacles to developing a savvy BY na m q u an IMAGE Lauralynn Goetz, B.A., M.M.Ed. US, is the director of English speaking Vietnamese youth an early childhood education center in Vietnam

Last month Thanh Nien News a foreign teacher, not the curricula, that for millions of children in the country published an article stating “English resulted in remarkable gains on the part of should be a priority.” language proficiency will be dependent the 100 three-to–five-year-old students. "Parents were too busy earning a living upon private sector tutoring”. I discovered We are here to assist, often on a pro- to have time for interactive activities with it referred to the Pygmalion Effect or bono basis, but as Dennis Berg, who has their children. Many wrongly assumed that Rosenthal – Jacobsen Study (1968) in worked as an education consultant in eating and sleeping were enough for their which the greater the expectation placed Vietnam for over 20 years, is quoted in the children,” said Ta Thuy Hanh, from Save upon people, the better they perform. This article: “Without faculty development and the Children foundation. was never clearly explained in the article. changes in teacher training programs, the This recent comment from a foreign Wishful thinking or pre-conditioned bias project will never reach its goals.” educator posted on the Your Two Cents as to results? I wasn’t able to discern The project that he refers to has a budget forum on Thanhniennews.com stated: “My the value of this theory, but it appears of USD443 million, approved in 2008, which oldest friend in Vietnam has held contracts to be an influential concept driving envisions that by 2020 “most Vietnamese at universities from Hanoi to Phan Thiet the expectations and policies of the students graduating from secondary to train the faculty on doing a better job of Vietnamese government. vocational schools, colleges and universities teaching English. He has been invariably The article goes on to say that “86,000 will be able to use a foreign language thwarted from fulfilling his contract by English teachers across Vietnam were confidently in their daily communication.” administrators who ask him to teach taking European standard exams aimed My personal concern is based upon English to undergraduates instead of at gauging if they are competent enough the criteria that government mandate teaching Vietnamese English teachers how to churn out an English savvy young has established that “English will become to do a better job.” workforce by 2020.” a compulsory subject at the third grade So how can Vietnam solve the challenge This goal is being criticized as being onward.” It may not conceivably become of teaching “competent enough English unrealistic by a number of foreign reality under that current government edict. teachers to churn out an English savvy consultants including myself after a As an early childhood educator, I young workforce by 2020”? personal experience at the National strongly support Nguyen Vinh Hien, the I will present my suggestions next Teachers College in HCMC. After investing Deputy from the Ministry of month, but invite Oi readers, many of over four and a half hours a week for 15 Education and Training, when he said that whom are most certainly competent weeks, the 100 children and seven teachers “early childhood from birth to eight years English teachers, to present your opinions I taught resulted in a dead-end experiment. of age is the most critical period in human and suggestions. Email us at education@ The teachers decided that it was me as development, so early care and education oivietnam.com

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95 HIGHER LEARNING EDUCATION Column y tti n g l Follow the Money an m a IMAGE BY q ui nn ry IMAGE Find out why international schools Katie Rigney-Zimmermann B.S, M.B.A, M. Sec. Ed, is director of Admissions and Marketing at Saigon are so expensive South International School in Phu My Hung.

attends the workshops benefit but they bring that knowledge back to the school and share it with their colleagues. This then has a school wide effect on the learning of all students. Budgeting for the Future

Having great teachers, and ensuring that they are up-to-date with best practices only goes so far if the teachers do not have the proper instructional materials, teaching supplies or books in the classrooms and libraries. It is a difficult and lengthy process to source quality foreign language resources in Vietnam so many schools are forced to go overseas to obtain them. This can sometimes double the price. International schools often reach beyond the scope of just classroom education and provide students with a multitude of co- and extracurricular activities. This means that schools are required to be equipped with gyms, libraries, computer labs, swimming pools, playgrounds, etc. These facilities need to be constructed and maintained. Operational and maintenance costs are on average between five to 10 percent. In light of the difficult economic I often hear parents comment on the to lure the teachers to HCMC. There is an situation in Vietnam today many schools high price tag of sending their children old expression, “If you pay peanuts, you will build a reserve as protection from to international schools. Many times get monkeys”. Researchers in the US use downturns and decreases in enrolment. these parents are expats coming directly Value-Added matrixes to determine the Because of recent changes in the laws, from their home countries where their long-term effects of having good teachers. foreign-owned international schools are children attended public schools for free. They discovered that students with better heavily dependent on expat students and The concept of paying for schooling, teachers were more likely to get higher test so if the local economy does not attract except through taxes, is foreign to them. scores, go to university and even earn more foreign investment the enrollments can So naturally they ask where the money as adults. In today’s competitive global be negatively affected. goes, what it is used for and how does that marketplace these are advantages every The final piece used for determining benefit their child. parent hopes to give their child. the tuition is whether or not a school is A good rule of thumb for established The field of education is developing for profit or not. For-profit schools, just international schools is that 70 to 75 percent and just like in many other jobs there like businesses, need to pay dividends of the budget is dedicated to salaries and are new innovations and new research or share profits with their investors. The benefits. Highly qualified teachers with which demonstrate better ways to reach amount or percentage paid out varies by many years of experience need to be fairly all students. In order to ensure that school. Not-for-profit schools reinvest all compensated for their experience and their teachers are learning about these of their surpluses back into the school. education. Schools in HCMC compete at innovations or best practices schools Many schools share this budgetary international hiring fairs with schools need to bring in outside consultants or information with their communities within the region for the same teachers. send their teachers to courses or seminars through things like their Annual Report. Many teachers want to work in Asia but are outside of school. This is called professional Parents looking to enroll their children not necessarily concerned about whether development and good schools will invest in an international school should ask or not the job is in Vietnam or Malaysia, upwards of three percent of their budget in about the budget as part of the initial therefore a more attractive package helps it. Not only does the teacher who directly school visit.

96 POSTCARDS FROM VIETNAM ART Column

For the Love BY N a m Qu an IMAGE A professional artist and author of A Week in Hoi An, Bridget March specializes in urban landscapes and aims to reveal the hidden treasures of city life and small town cultures through of Boats her illustrations. Bridget holds drawing classes for beginners and improvers in Saigon. For more of Bridget's work including Tripping along the river her new book, see BrushWithAsia.blogspot.com n BY Bri d g e t Ma r c h illust r atio

I am passionate about boats. I love to system internationally, nationally and supplies (and people) from ship to shore draw them and back home in England I locally. Whether you want to ship rice to in coracles and small wooden tenders. The even lived on one for 10 years. I can sit Australia or take your chickens to market, sight from the bridge over the Ca Ty River and watch boats bob about in a harbor for boats are often the best way from A to reminds me of old paintings of the fishing hours. Just listening to the slap of ropes B. Many communities in rural areas are ports of England a hundred years ago, a on masts and watching fishermen mend only accessible by boat so the rhythms of piece of living history. nets and wind ropes fill me with delight. the tides, the winds and the rain are the For a more modern ride, the trip to One of the joys of living near the water factors that set the pace of life. Vung Tau via hydrofoil is a great way (river or coast) in Vietnam is being able Whenever I can, I make my way down to experience the open wildness of the to enjoy a seemingly endless parade of to the water. In Hoi An, I love taking a river with its backdrop of blue and purple traditional wooden boats and ships of little wooden boat down the river at the hills in the distance. Go speeding past the all colors and sizes that move gracefully end of the afternoon and return to the crotchety fishing boats with their double along the canals and rivers and gather in quayside by the market just as the sun is and triple tiered wheelhouses and wave to harbors along the coast. beginning to set. The low afternoon sun the lighthouse keeper as you pass by. I reckon I was born with some salt casts a warm glow over the ancient town Closer to home, the thrill of taking a water in my veins because my mother’s and paints beautiful reflections in the speedboat up the Saigon River to Cu Chi is family were seafarers in the north of silken waters of the river. hard to beat as a way to spend a morning. England. I can just about remember In Phan Thiet, a truly evocative sight Weaving through the floating islands of wooden sailing boats coming and going is the estuary, which is jammed with water hyacinths, leaving a sparkling white in their hometown but sadly the fishing traditional, wooden fishing boats moored wake behind you is truly exhilarating. industry is almost extinct in the UK, which so close together you could almost walk I will never tire of the variety of craft is a sad loss. from one end of the town to the other and their activities in the backwaters Here in Vietnam, however, boats across their decks. Teams of fishermen and rivers of Vietnam. I guess I am just a still form a major part of the transport work on their boats and the women ferry romantic fool when it comes to boats.

97 The List

Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly comprehensive District 2 insider's guide for foreign residents - website launching 2013 ITALIAN restaurant. By night, guests can enjoy VILLA B,12A Street Number 12, D2 food & drink live music, sports on the big screen, 3740 6388 Bakeries Pendolasco – Thao Dien quiz nights, pool, foosball, and more. Serves international cafe fare, great Thanh Tung Voelker Expect excellent classic Italian cuisine – food, icy-cold draught beer and wine by Prints digital, cuts decal, LED signs, the carafe. The space is a large open- French bakery selling fresh breads, wood-fired pizza, spaghetti, and tiramisu – Braille and stainless neon materials to plan room with an attached garden and pastries and chocolate cooked with a focus on fresh flavours and ensure compliance with quality. featuring the finest imported ingredients play area for kids. Holds regular movie 373 Luong Dinh Cua, D2 39 Thao Dien, D2 from Italy. screenings. 090 952 1411 6296 0066 36 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 voelker-vietnam.com 62532888 35194532 REAL ESTATE AGENCIES www.pendolasco.vn www.snap.com.vn BARS Namhouse Sarpino’s Pizzeria The Deck Mcsorley’s Provides rental properties for home and office use, focusing in the District Recently opened Irish pub with a Sarpino’s Pizzeria is a famous pizza Located on the banks of the Saigon 2 area. swimming pool and outdoor patio. brand from Canada with three River, this restaurant offers great 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 Serves pub grub with events and theme branches around Ho Chi Minh City that international and Vietnamese fare. www.namhouse.com.vn nights happening regularly. specializes in pizza, pasta and rice. 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 4 Thao Dien, D2 43 Thao Dien, D2. 3744 2132 www.thedecksaigon.com Snap Café 3519 4659 JAPANESE Vino Has an extensive list of property rentals www.mcsorleys.vn in District 2. They offer professional advice on Papagayo Saigon Tama River-Japanese Restaurant selecting and tasting wines. The 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 Bottles of sake fill shelves along the outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot 3519 4282 A resort-style design and French www.snap.com.vn Mediterranean food are the make-up of wall behind the sushi bar, and unique to sample a new vintage and brunches Japanese paintings add a nice visual on the weekends. this newly opened hangout. touch. Since opening four months ago, NO.1, Street 2nd, D2 18 Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 health & beauty the restaurant has attracted a diverse www.vinovietnam.com 6252 1333 clientele, from locals to expats. DENTISTS 14E1 Thao Dien, D2 Buddha Bar 3744 6782 supermarkets European Dental Clinic One of the long standing bars in the Offering state of the art technology, area, it has a pool table, darts, big screen Chiisana Hashi Annam Gourmet competitive pricing, and supreme tvs along with cheap beers and bar food. Serves authentic Japanese cuisine An upscale deli and grocery chain offering quality, this dentistry is truly dedicated 7 Thao Dien, D2 including sashimi, sushi, tempura, gourmet groceries, cheese, organic to their patients. 3744 2080 sukiyaki and shabu shabu products, gluten -free products, fruit and 17-17A Le Van Mien, D2 River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 vegetables, gourmet deli, wine and other 091 874 9204 or 090 955 1916 cafeS 6683 5308 beverages. All locations, in District 1, 2 www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com and 7, have a coffee lounge that serves Agnes Cafe - Dalat Coffee & Flower THAI breakfast, lunch, drinks and early dinner. Saigon Smile Shop 41A Thao Dien street. D2. 3744 2630 With a group of experienced doctors At Agnes Cafe they offer fresh coffee, Baan Thai SB2-1 My Khanh 4,Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 and professional staff trained to do smoothies and juices along with a 5412 3263 / 5412 3264 teeth cleaning, dental work and other delicious breakfast and lunch menu. Baan Thai serves authentic Thai cuisine www.annam-gourmet.com teeth enhancing procedures. This quaint and cozy cafe is a perfect using a considerable variety of tastes and 96 Tran Nao, D2 spices prepared by Thai chefs.Generally An Phu Supermarket place to meet up with friends or just 6674 4255 speaking, the cuisine leans more towards Large supermarket stocking a wide 8am to 8pm relax to get away from the bustling being authentic in taste than serving the range well-known international brands traffic outside. They offer free delivery. more internationalised versions of Thai of dry goods along with fresh groceries, Nu Cuoi Hoan My (Perfect Smile) 11A-B Thao Dien, D2 cuisine available elsewhere. frozen meat and fish, fresh fruit and 14-16 Tran Nao, D2 [email protected] 55 Thao Dien, D2; 3744 5453 vegetables, cheese, wine, toiletries and 6281 9772 www.baanthai-anphu.com more 3740 7470 facebook.com/pages/Agnes-Cafe 43 Thao Dien, D2 [email protected] Jasmine Thai 8am to 8pm Classic Fine Foods restaurants Expect here variations on dishes you'll Supplier of international brand foodstuff Dental Truong Thanh FRENCH find throughout the Thai culinary tradition like Illy, Valrhona, Bonne Maman along 276 Tran Nao, D2 with features more common to those with fresh vegetables, dairy, and meat. 5402 3009 Gastro’home restaurants serving in Western nations. No. 17, Street 12, D2 www.nhakhoatruongthanh.com New delicatessen shop offering 85 Quoc Huong, D2 3740 7105 western-fusion French food by French 3519 0038 www.classicfinefoods.com FITNESS chef Stephane Courtin. Visit the shop or try their catering service. VIETNAMESE Metro Ais Sports Complex 100 Xuan Thuy, D2. 6281 9830 Wholesale suppliers of foodstuff, office Open to the public, the center has a Banian Tree supplies, furniture, clothes and more. 25m swimming pool, basketball court A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant. Entry is reserved for business owners La Villa Oi’s Pick and an astroturf play area. Inquire about Offers a set lunch, set dinner and only but foreigners can obtain a one- special packages.

international breakfast day pass by showing their passports. APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 This Colonial-style villa set in a quietly River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Residential An Phu, An Khanh Ward 2 3744 2549 gentrified district 2 street is a cache of www.aissportscentre.com luxury with its beautiful poolside garden Western/ INTERNATIONAL and cosy, scenic white-toned dining room business Cyril And You area. Dine outside or in, on an off-the-cuff Boathouse Oi’s Pick LAW FIRMS French physical instructor Cyril menu prepared by the French chef, With a great view of the Saigon River, specializes in sports conditioning, based on the best market ingredients this restobar serves imported steak, Nguyen Giap Law Firm resistance training and senior training available on the day. Set amongst the healthy salads and much more in an 14 Tran Nao, D2 along with designing a personal fitness alfresco environment. 3740 7812 flowers and with a ring of the lost charm program to fit your needs. Thao Dien, 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior www.hangluatnguyengiap.com of the Colonial era, this is an appealing D2; 094 777 1326 Compound, D2; 3744 6790 8am - 5pm and impressive venue for An Phu's high- www.cyril-and-you.com profile community. www.boathouse.com.vn

Dang Khuong t s 14 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 NTFQ2 a Mekong Merchant Oi’s Pick 26 Street 44, D2 3898 2082 Besides an excellent weights and www.lavilla-restaurant.com.vn Set in a colonial house within an 8224 09726 open-air courtyard surrounding, this cardio area, the facility runs group *Reviewed in Oi March 2013 restaurant serves delicious pizza, Marketing & Advertising classes including power yoga, pilates, sandwiches, smoothies with an circuit training, martial arts and Trois Gourmands extensive wine list. Industrial Design Asia spinning. Opened in 2004 and regarded as one 23 Thao Dien, D2; 3744 4713 Offers design engineering and innovation 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 of the finest French restaurants in town. consultancy for plastics, consumer www.nutrifort.com Owner Gils, a French native, makes his Snap Cafe products, electronics, metal parts. Dutch own cheeses as well. industrial designers with over 10 years of Thien Nga (Swan) Club 18 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 By day, Snap Cafe is a community- working experience in Asia. Contact them Fitness club that has training equipment

3744 4585 centered, family-friendly cafe and to get a free quotation. and a 25sqm swimming pool ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 98 751 Xuan Thuy, D2 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Smartkids Singapore Air, Malaysia Airlines, Korean 3899 0012 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & An international childcare centre provides Airlines, Qantas Airways , Lufthansa, Primary School) kindergarten and pre-school education for United Airlines and many other X-Rock Climbing APSC Compound international airlines. With two locations in the city, this wall children between 18 months and six years 36 Thao Dien, D2 64B3 Xuan Thuy, D2 in An Phu stands at 26 meters. The Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, old. A fun and friendly environment, the 6674 9041 center offers nine levels from beginners Middle & Senior School) school focuses on learning through play. to hardcore. East-West Highway, D2 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 3742 4040 3744 6076 Serviced apartments www.xrockclimbing.com www.aisvietnam.com www.smartkidsinfo.com Glenwood Serviced Apartment

Yoga Club British International School A very modern property, located in Yogo fitness center for both men and Offers pre-school to secondary education travel the heart of the expatriate's residential women under the English national curriculum. Travel Agencies area, steps away from Int'l schools and 18 Street Number 2, D2 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 supermarket. 3897 6786 3744 2335 248A Nguyen Van Huong, D2 www.bisvietnam.com Hospitals & CLINICS 0944 168 568 Horizon International Bilingual School Riverside Apts Animal Rescue & Care A bilingual school, HIBS opened in Overlooking the Saigon River, the Abandoned and wild cats and dogs can 2005 and applies 100 percent of the be adopted or fostered from their online Vietnamese national curriculum, MOET, compound offers short and long term database. ARC also organizes several as well as providing students with an leases. animal welfare education and low-cost intensive English program along with 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 spaying campaigns. teaching science and math in English. www.riverside-apartments.com 31-44 Thao Dien, D2 6 - 6A - 8, 44 Street, D2 www.arcpets.com hibsvietnam.com River Garden Apartment An Phu International Clinic L’atelier It is located within a 15-minute drive of An international standard clinic downtown and provides its occupants Classes include spelling and grammar with a full range of specialist and with stunning views of the Saigon River tuition after school, monitoring for the modern medical equipment with a Exotissimo in a resort type of environment. French education program, preparing dedicated team of professors, doctors, Travel 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 experienced nurses. for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), Exotissimo Travel offers tours to and Vietnamese lessons, including 251A Luong Dinh Cua, D2 Vietnam, the region and the whole Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City extra-curricular activities during the wide world ! Local and regional tours 6660 6602 It has an extensive array of modern www.dakhoaanphu.com holidays. for family and visitors are quick and 33/19 Quoc Huong, D2 easy to arrange, from standard to facilities and provides convenient access Family Medical Practice 3744 6844 higher-end versions. Less common to a hypermarket, international schools, a With a nationwide operational advantage, www.latelier-anphu.com requests are tailor-built for you by medical clinic, retail outlets and offices. they provide international standard friendly online operators and/or the 628C Hanoi Highway, D2 medical services in a safe, professional Montessori International School of pleasant District 2 location office. 6255 9900 and welcoming environment. Vietnam A District 1 presence will re-open soon. www.somerset.com/vietnam 95 Thao Dien, D2 The school seeks to enable all its 41 Thao Dien, D2 3744 2000 pupils to achieve their fullest potential 3519 4111 Villa Song Saigon www.vietnammedicalpractice.com by providing them with a nurturing www.exotissimo.com Colonial-style, boutique apartments and stimulating environment, and by [email protected] [email protected] characterised by solid hardwood being sensitive and responsive to 8am-6pm Monday-Friday, 8am-2pm flooring and an outdoor swimming pool Saturday their individual needs. Their curriculum is designed based on Montessori Ha Nguyen ensconced by verdant gardens. Salons & SPAS methodology and practice, and is Specializes in providing tickets for Eva 197/2, Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 enhanced with a variety of programs. Airlines, Qatar Airways, China Airlines, 0906099180 J Hair Salon 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Cathay Pacific, American Airlines, www.villasong.com Experienced stylist Jimmy Le provides 3744 2639 modern styling, healthy and fashionable www.montessori.edu.vn hair care, along with professional blonde highlighting treatments. Noah's Club 33A Thao Dien, D2 Providing high quality care & education 090 934 2022 for kids aged 1-6 in District 2 . Various creative & fun programs, beautiful Saigon Dep outdoor space with a warm family The clinic treats various skin diseases feeling and more. and offers skin care protection and No3, Duong so 4, Nguyen U Di, D2 prevention packages. 3744 4709 79 Xuan Thuy, D2 [email protected] 3899 0448 www.saigondep.net Saigon Sports Academy A multi-sports training school that The Royal Spa And Salon teaches chess, swimming, tennis, Services include acrylic nails, facials, soccer, among others. hair salons and massages 28 Tran Nao, D2 14E14 Thao Dien, D2 7303 1100 3519 4873 shopping Home Interiors Austin Home Furniture shop that stocks art deco pieces, cushions, fabrics and wooden ornaments for the home 20 Thao Dien, D2 3519 0023 Clic Clac Sofa Saigon Star Sells sofas that double up as beds in International various sizes and wood School 327F Luong Dinh Cua, D2 Saigon Star is a student focused 5402 7434 international primary school www.clicclacsofa.com offering high quality first class provision. Specializing in the British education National Curriculum, all of the class t s a SCHOOLS teachers hold international teaching qualification. In the early years Australian International School (AIS) program, a Montessori specialist works The Australian International School is an closely with the main class teachers IB World School with three world class to ensure a high rate of progress. The campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an school also provides specialists for international education from kindergarten children requiring extra to senior school with the IB Primary Years support with ESL. Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Residential Area No.5, Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 Diploma Programme (DP). 3742 STAR / 3742 7827 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013 Xi Campus (Kindergarten)

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Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly comprehensive District 7 insider's guide for foreign residents - website launching 2013 The Fountain Coffee Ice Cream Spice India Vietnamese restaurants serving up food & drink Known for its Swiss ice cream with all Spice India offers a wide range of their famous banh khot amongst BAKERIES the fixings, Fountain Coffee also serves dishes that cater to any pallette. Enjoy an extensive menu of affordable Western dishes in a spacious lounge your curry with a side of Bollywood. Vietnamese food. Savouré Bakery area. S6-1 Bui Bang Doan, Hung Vuong 3, D7 R1-72 Hung Gia 1, Bui Bang Doan, D7 5410 2027 Offering gourmet cakes and pastries with SB4-1 My Duc Residential Complex, 093 841 6551 all the fine characteristics of the European Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 www.namaste-india.com.vn gourmet tradition. Customers can choose 5412 3257 ASIAN from a wide array of baked goods ITALIAN including cakes, desserts, breads, cookies, MOF Japanese Sweets & Coffee Cham Charm wedding cakes, and moon cakes during Crescent Sarpino’s the season. Charm is more like a museum than a dining venue, filled with the artefacts and Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Sourcing the majority of their dessert Sarpino’s Pizzeria serves authentic Italian pizzas as well as other Italian sculpture of the Champa people and 5412 2469 ingredients from Hokkaido, Japan, MOF dishes such as oven-baked pasta, with gorgeous artworks and colourful www.savourebakery.com serves up premium desserts and a baked rice, wraps and salad, all at hangings on the walls. The upstairs area is Japanese restaurant menu. reasonable prices. a wide-open terrace with plenty of tables BARS 101 Ton Dat Tien, D7 3SI 12-1 Grandview, Nguyen Cao Nam, D7 for a more relaxing atmosphere. The Peaches www.mof.com.vn/en 5412 2480 cuisine is pan-Asian. A spacious, attractive restobar with NYDC www.sarpinos.vn 2 Phan Van Chuong, D7 comfortable, lounge-style seating and a 9am - 10.30pm Established in 1995 in Singapore, NYDC, bar area, this watering hole mixes three WESTERN/INTERNATIONAL The New York Dessert Café, aims to beers on tap and a large screen for live Salt & Pepper Italian Restaurant bring a piece of New York to Southeast sports with a pan-Asian curry menu. Located in the modern confines of The Boomarang Bistro Saigon Asia with their popular mudpies and a S57-1 Sky Garden 2, D7 Crescent, this contemporary-styled Located in The Crescent by the 5410 0999 whole range of Western comfort foods. Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an Crescent lake, the spacious Boomarang 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 open kitchen and an outdoor terrace Bistro Saigon serves Australian Ruby Soho Oi’s Pick 5413 6523 area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian and other Western food in the most A popular district 7 spot with excellent cuisine, the menu includes a selection pedestrian friendly part of town. and cheap range of cocktails, good S’cottage Restaurant - Café of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 food and great music! Listen to the likes Inspired by the mysterious wooden and desserts, all at affordable prices. 3841 3883 of Jimi Hendrix, The Ramones or Beck house in the Hansel and Gretl story, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 | 5412 4848 www.boomarang.com.vn while downing an ice cold one. S’cottage serves up home-style meals www.saltpepper.com.vn S52-1 Sky Garden 2, D7 in a spacious, fairy-tale inspired space. Cham Charm 0120 325 9138 SB-02 My Duc Residential Complex, JAPANESE Famous for their extensive international Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 nightly buffet featuring 8 types of The Tavern 5411 1186 Baby Spoon oysters, American Angus beef and The Tavern is a Western pub & Australian filets, Cham Charm is restaurant where patrons can play Famous for its extensive omurice devoted to Cham arts, culture and darts & pool, watch football or enjoy restaurants menu (fried rice wrapped inside an cuisine and is tastefully decorated with reasonably priced food and drinks. egg omelette), Baby Spoon offers Cham artifacts and sculptural works. contemporary Japanese-Western fusion R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 La Cucina 02 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung New cuisine. Baby Spoon omurice (green bell 5410 3900 Urban, D7 peppers, bacon, tomato sauce omurice) La Cucina has opened on Crescent 5410 9999 is the house specialty. CAFES Promenade in Phu My Hung, with SB 2-1 Parkview, D7 an open-plan kitchen that can El Gaucho 3822 3356 Baskin Robbins accommodate 180 diners. Enjoy El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse is With more than 7000 branches in more top-end dining featuring the best of Osaka Ramen an international chain of restaurants than 50 countries, Baskin Robbins is serving authentic Argentinian cuisine Italian cuisine and a wide selection of This sleek, open-kitchen contemporary the largest ice-cream chain in the world in a space reflecting modern yet rustic imported seafood, prepared from the eatery serves up Japanese noodles with flavors such as Baseball Nut and decor, giving it an inviting ambiance and freshest ingredients, in a relaxed, rustic starting from VND78,000. There are Lunar Cheesecake. atmosphere. genuine atmosphere. also set menus, individual dishes and a Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, D7 105 Ton Dat Tien, D7 Reviewed in Oi April 2013 range of smaller, appetizing sides. 7308 3131 3825 1879 Block 07-08 CR1-07, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 SD04, LO H29-2, My Phat Residential www.baskinrobbins.vn www.elgaucho.com.vn 5413 7932 Complex, D7 5412 3940 Scott & Binh’s Restaurant Bud’s CHINESE Oi’s Pick Bringing the taste of American ice THAI This unassuming little bistro is making cream to Vietnam, Bud’s Ice Cream has Huong Vien Hunanese Restaurant big waves with visitors to the city and nine stores in Ho Chi Minh City. Apart Nathalie's Phu My Hung resident expats alike. With a menu replete from a variety of delicious ice cream with tasty sandwiches, burgers, pasta, and Serving China’s little-known spiciest flavors, Bud’s also offers a wide range various other international dishes, this is cuisine, the dishes of China’s reddest Nathalie's Phu My Hung is situated in an of Western and Vietnamese food. an ideal guilty hideaway from Vietnamese province and the preferred taste ideal location on a central corner in the SD - 04 Panorama Residential Complex, D7 cuisine for just one meal at least. of Chairman Mao, Huong Vien is district 7 high-profile metropolitan area. 3932 2778 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, D7 well-decorated although a bit on the Serving delicious Thai cuisine in charming www.budsicecream.com.vn 3920 8986 pricey side, with dishes averaging and romantic surroundings, the restaurant VND180,000 . has two floors with a unified, simple decor Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf and warm colourful tones throughout. The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf serves S59-S61, Sky Garden 2 Apartments, D7 supermarkets 5410 4368 S9 Hung Vuong 3 Apartments, D7 some of the best coffee and tea from 5410 0822 around the world. It also has a full line www.nathaliesrestaurant.com Annam Gourmet of baked goods made from high quality Ming Dynasty An upmarket deli-grocery chain offering ingredients, most of which are from Ming Dynasty serves authentic Chinese Thai Express- Crescent Plaza gourmet groceries, cheese, organic food in a setting reminiscent of an old their own proprietary recipes. Thai Express's interpretation of Thai products, gluten-free products, fruit Ground Floor, Crescent Mall, Ton Dat Tien, D7 Chinese palace. Specialties include dim food exhibits the best of the cuisine but and vegetables, gourmet deli, wine and 3824 4527 sum, shark fin and abalone and dishes with the edges softened for a global other beverages. This location also www.coffeebean.com.vn from Quang Dong. palate unused to the extremes of Thai features a coffee lounge. t s

23 Nguyen Khac Vien, D7 style cooking. Averaging from 40,000 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 a FB Deli Coffee 5411 5555 VND to 200,000 VND per dish, its price can't be beat for the same quality and Citimart FB Deli Coffee features a unique black and INDIAN deliciousness. Despite being smaller in floor size than white design and signature coffee beans 105 Ton Dat Tien, D7 some other supermarkets, Citimart, a imported from Italy. Guests can also enjoy Ashoka 5415 5556 large Vietnamese supermarket chain, many varieties of homemade cakes, along Ashoka is a small chain of slightly more www.thaiexpress.vn carries a wide selection of imported with Tiramisu, muffins, and sandwiches. All upscale Indian restaurants serving both goods. cakes 50% off from 7 to 10pm. Northern and Southern Indian cuisine VIETNAMESE SC-10 Green View, Nguyen Luong Bang, SE-1 My Khanh 2 Apartments, D7 including curries, naan and tandoris. D7 5411 9696 S9-1 Block R13, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Co Ba Vung Tau B3-4, B3-5, B3-6 Ha Huy Tap, D7

8am - 10pm 5410 1989 Co Ba Vung Tau is a chain of traditional S4-1 Hung Vuong 3, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 100 Lotte Mart Lotte complex, with a chief focus on The largest offshore campus in the world, Sommerset (8 Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1). Lotte Mart is a South Korean beautiful hair styling. RMIT Vietnam offers programs from 093 406 0735 or 6680 7226 supermarket chain with two branches 3rd floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu business and management to design and [email protected] in Ho Chi Minh City carrying a very wide Tho, D7 micro engineering. www.zumba-saigon.com range of products. 3775 2990; 093 481 8085 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 3776 1300 Saigon South Golf Club Veggy’s shopping Saigon South International School The closest golf course to HCMC’s A specialized grocery store carrying HOME & FURNISHINGS Founded in 1997, Saigon South downtown area, Saigon South is a 9-hole, imported products, Veggy’s offers International School seeks to par 3 golf course and driving range a wide range of international food Mekong Quilts accommodate an increasing need situated behind FV hospital. There are imported from abroad and fresh Mekong Quilts offers sustainable for American education for both local foreign trainers to help golfers with golf produce grown in Vietnam. employment to women from poor rural residents and expatriate families. skills. Equipment hire is available. Nguyen Van Linh, D7 S54-1 Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, D7 regions of Vietnam and Cambodia who SSIS enrolls over 850 students in 5411 2001 5410 2613 craft fashionable, quality silk quilts and Early Childhood – Grade 12 from over home wares. thirty-three countries in a spacious six- S17 Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 hectare, well-equipped campus. travel business 6271 7758 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 BANKS www.mekong-quilts.org 5413 0901 HOTELS www.ssis.edu.vn ANZ Bank LADIESWEAR Bizu Boutique Hotel Phu My Hung The hotel’s 24 guestrooms are all 47 Phu My Hung Vstar School designed with guests’ comfort in mind, 5410 1666 Aquamarine Vstar School provides education from featuring wireless Internet access along www.anz.com/vietnam/vn Aquamarine and Xuan Thu are Grades 1-12 in a spacious 30,000m2 with all the basic facilities. Other features premium swimsuit brands for men, environment including a sports field and at the hotel include a restaurant, billiards, women and children. swimming pool. HUMAN RESOURCES karaoke, 24hr room service 24hr, an 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Him Lam Residential Complex, Nguyen elevator, laundry service/dry cleaning and Xage Consultancy 3842 7105 Huu Tho, D7 meeting facilities. A human resource management 3821 3821 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, D7 consulting firm that develops people Vera 5411 1008 and organizations specializing in Vera is an international premium VLS Vietnamese Language School talent development, organizational lingerie brand that is designed and Imparting genuine fluency in Vietnamese Bizu Premier Hotel Phu My Hung development and outplacement. made in Vietnam. The line offers cutting since 1994, VLS is one of the city’s best- Twenty-five rooms spread over 5 floors 3SA-1-2, 1st Floor, Grandview C, Nguyen edge lingerie and is reasonably priced. organised and most professional training provide modern comforts such as Duc Canh, D7 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 centers devoted to the Vietnamese satellite/cable TV, bathtub, balcony/ 5412 3402 3822 1152 language, with classes for all levels. terrace, bathrobes, air conditioning. www.vera.com.vn R4 -28 Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, D7 7-9 Cao Trieu Phat, D7 MARKETING & ADVERTISING 3602 6694 education Xone FM recreation Boutique Garden Hotel The first independently run radio station SCHOOLS Newly opened in 2012 and conveniently in Vietnam, Xone FM provides the latest CINEMAS AND THEATRES located close to Phu My Hung, FV and hottest songs in both English and ABC International School Hospital and Tam Duc Hospital, guests Vietnamese via 10 channels throughout Providing a caring and nurturing Lotte Cinema can choose from 20 rooms. the country. atmosphere for all its students, the Lotte Cinema (Nam Saigon) has 1,336 R3-84 Hung Phuoc 3, D7 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 ABC International School offers seats in 6 theaters, showing movies in 5410 5941 5413 5341 a combination of both British English and Vietnamese. and international educations and 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Ibis Hotel Saigon South REAL ESTATE AGENCIES qualifications. 3775 2527 The 3-star Ibis Hotel Saigon South is Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & located in front of Saigon Exhibition and Anh Nguyen Real Estate Secondary) Megastar Cineplex Convention Centre and only 15 minutes Anh Nguyen specializes in rental and #2, 1E Street, Khu Dan Cu Trung Son, Binh Showing movies in English and from the city centre. It features 140 sales of residences in Phu My Hung. Hung, Binh Chanh Vietnamese, and Megastar offers more rooms with free Wifi internet access, a 168 Ha Huy Tap, D7 5431 1833 /34/35/36 cinema screens than anyone else in restaurant/bar and 3 meeting rooms. 090 958 2489 [email protected] Vietnam. Both the Crescent Mall and There is a free Ibis shuttle available to www.theabcis.com Parkson Paragon location s have 8 and from the hotel to major corporate Vietnam Housing theaters. offices and the city centre. Vietnam Housing specializes in helping Kids Club Saigon 5th Floor, Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, D7 73 Hoang Van Thai, D7 Vietnam’s foreign community with their Early childhood centers in Phu My 5412 2222 www.ibis.com long- and short-term real estate rental Hung offering creative play-based 5th Floor, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen and purchasing needs. programs for children ages 2 to 5. Luong Bang, D7 Sabena Hotel R1-49, Hung Gia 3, D7 Known for unique facilities, experienced 5416 0088 The Sabena Hotel sits in a quiet, 5412 5979 staff, high-quality learning resources, tree-lined street just off the major and small class sizes gyms & SPORTS Parkway Nguyen Van Linh. The Saigon health & beauty 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, D7 Exhibition & Convention Center, RMIT 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, D7 The Crescent Wellness Club International University and The DENTISTS 5412 5944 Overlooking The Crescent complex’s Crescent Mall are only 1km away. Naomi Dental Clinic www.kidsclubsaigon.com lagoon, this multi-purpose and 24 Noi Khu Hung Gia 4, D7 organically designed fitness and 5416 1000 A full service dental clinic under the Kindermusik direction of Japanese dentist Dr. wellness centre offers an array of The center is a music, movement and SERVICED APARTMENTS Nakashima Mikio. modern facilities including a state-of- English-language program for children R4-45 Hung Phuoc 4, D7 the-art gym, group fitness classes, yoga from birth to 7 years. Each lesson The Crescent 5410 3937 sessions, a squash court, swimming promotes early literacy and English pool, steam bath and nutrition bar. The Crescent is located along the Crescent Lake in the heart of Phu My HOSPITALS language acquisition, social skills and 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, more. Kindermusik programs aligh with 105 Ton Dat Tien, D7 Hung New City Centre, offering an exclusive high-class lifestyle for locals standards and/or requirements for the 5412 1277 David Shepherd Chiropractic Clinic and expats. This area consists of a DSCC provides Chiropractic care US, UK, UE, TESOL Pre-K and IB Primary years. Body by Jovie variety of green parks, restaurants, for patients using state of the art luxury apartments, retail shops and Ground Floor, Crescent Residence2, D7 An urban boutique gym & yoga physiotherapy equipment imported entertainment venues. www.kindermusik-vietnam.com studio with a unique facility catering from USA. DSCC is managed and 101 Ton Dat Tien, D7 operated by American doctors who use 090 709 9480 to the individual demanding diversity, modern and advanced technologies personal attention and results. They are Garden Court Renaissance International an alternative to the mainstream gym techniques to ensure safe, gentle, and School Saigon Completed in 2009, Garden Court is a effective treatment. who strive on raw functional training, luxury apartment building located close 41 Noi Khu, Hung Gia 3, D7 Opened in 2008, The Renaissance small group fitness & Yoga combined to schools, supermarkets and shopping 5410 6242 International School Saigon offers with state of the art equipment. centers and a golf course. www.saigonchiropractic.com programs from Early Years to secondary Block B, Second Floor, Riverside Garden Court,Ton Dat Tien, D7 curriculum, founded on the International Residence FV Hospital British System. The four buildings on Block B, Second Floor, Riverside Residence Garden Plaza the school’s one-hectare site include Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 t s French Hospital - Vietnam is a multi- Garden Plaza is a high class apartment a specialty hospital equipped with a 350-seat auditorium, a computer 5417 1946; 0120 384 0961 building designed after modern modern equipment and providing a resource centre, gymnasium and 25 m bodybyjovie.com Singapore buildings, comprising of four full range of medical services including swimming pool. [email protected] inter-connected 8-storey blocks. medical and health advice, diagnosis 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Garden Plaza, Ton Dat Tien, D7 and surgical treatment at a single point. 3773 3171 Nicky's Zumba® Fitness Studio 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 www.rissaigon.edu.vn They offer Zumba®Fitness, Yoga, Cross Sky Garden 5411 3333 Fit, Pilates Personal Fitness, Nurtition Sky Garden is a huge complex of RMIT International Advice and Hip hop kids, Aerobic kids, apartments including 42 buildings with SALON University Vietnam ZumbAtomic®. more than 3,000 individual apartments RMIT International University Vietnam is the Available at: Panorama-Fitness (206 Tran set on 10.4 hectares. Yuri Asian hub of Melbourne-based University Van Tra, D7), Fit & Fun Club (Sky Garden 2, Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 ex p At L isti n gs C o p y r ight ©2013 A full-range Korean beauty salon in the RMIT - Australia’s biggest tertiary institution. D7), Cyril&you (49a Xa Lo Ha Noi, D2), and 5410 1616

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Sunday Bloody Sunday Bright New Semester Pride Parade

Boomarang, in partnership with Oi, held the The team at New World Saigon helped Tan Viet Pride 2013, an event that supports the city's first blind Bloody Mary contest and with Thach A School start a new school year with local lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender a bevy of contestants looking to bring home a repainted canteen area, three full sets of community, took place last month. This the trophy the judges had their drinking cut computers, 200 pieces of bed linen, 100 bath is its second year in Vietnam. Last year it out for them. The winners were, from first to towels and 20 blankets. was organized only in Hanoi but has been third place, Ngan from Lucky Dog, Scott from developed nationwide in 12 cities and provinces Scott & Binh's, and Nhi from Boomarang. IMAGEs provided by New World Saigon across the country including My Tho, Thanh Hoa, Hai Phong, Vung Tau, Can Tho, Quy IMAGEs bY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY Nhon, Ben Tre, Da Nang and Nha Trang. IMAGEs provided by MAGNETIC NO

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