sign in sign up
<<
Home , Florida Keys, Overseas Highway, Seven Mile Bridge

Keys TravelerThe Magazine

Overseas Highway Is ‘All-American’

Keys for Kids The Grey Ghost Garden A New Dive Wreck ’s Avian Acres fla-keys.com Visitors to Key West can set sail for afternoon and sunset cruises on the elegant Schooner Halie & Mat- thew, operated by Calypso Water- sports & Charters and docked in front of the island city’s landmark Schooner Wharf Bar. Overnight trips also are offered, as are corporate and group excursions and adventure cruises to pristine National Park, located approximately 70 miles west of Key Set Sail West in the . In addition, the Halie & Matthew can be chartered to provide an unforgettable setting for a romantic wedding at sea. The gracious vessel, whose trips are designed to create a windjam- ming experience, can carry up to 90 passengers for day and evening sails and up to 36 passengers for overnight trips.

calypsosailing.com

ROB O’NEAL 7 Keys TravelerThe Magazine Editor Andy Newman Managing Editor STEVE BLY Carol Shaughnessy Copy Editor Buck Banks Writers Julie Botteri Kate Burgess-Craddy Production Assistant Carolina Bustamante Advertising Director John Underwood

Keys Traveler 9 STEPHEN FRINK is published by the Monroe County Tourist Development Council, the official visitor marketing agency for the Keys & Key West. CONTENTS

Director Harold Wheeler 4 Traveling the Highway that Goes to Sea Director of Sales Stacey Mitchell 5 Keys Highway is ‘All-American’ & Key West 6 Bring the Kids; Marathon Offers Family Fun Visitors Information www.fla-keys.com 7 Nature’s Palette Thrives at Key West Botanical Garden www.fla-keys.co.uk www.fla-keys.de 8 Into the Briny Deep www.fla-keys.ie www.fla-keys.fr Studios of Key West Offers Artistry and Inspiration www.fla-keys.nl 10 Islamorada’s Cheeca Lodge Transformed www.fla-keys.be Toll-Free in the U.S. and Canada Bahia Honda Ranks Among America’s Finest Beaches 1-800-FLA-KEYS 11 Bike, Stroll or Paddle the Keys Overseas Heritage Trail For the free monthly “Keys Traveler” 12 Islamorada Bones electronic newsletter, subscribe at 14 For the Birds on Key Largo www.fla-keys.com/keystraveler 15 Seafood and Comfort Food Flavor the Keys © 2009 Monroe County Tourist Development Council Printed in the U.S.A. By Original Impressions 10

The Florida Keys & Key West

twitter.com/thefloridakeys 14

Cover photo of the modern (left) and historic (right) Seven Mile in Marathon by Andy Newman Studios of Key West Traveling…

The unrolls like a long dark ribbon in front of the car, with immense vistas of turquoise Just southwest of Marathon lies By Carol Shaughnessy water and paler blue sky stretching the undisputed jewel of the Overseas endlessly on either side. communities. The highway winds Highway: the Seven Mile . Driving from mainland Florida down past Upper Keys marinas housing Driving across the 6.79-mile span the , it’s easy to sportfishing fleets and sailing yachts, over water, you realize why the understand why the southernmost oceanfront villas surrounded by original bridge was nicknamed “the leg of U.S. Highway 1 is often re- palms and flowering plants, enticing eighth wonder of the world” after its ferred to as the “Highway that Goes seafood restaurants and resorts both completion in the early 1900s. to Sea.” upscale and funky. Yet the wasn’t In fact, from Key Largo to Key “Cruising” farther down the high- always a highway bridge — and the West, the 113-mile road incorpo- way, with passing miles marked Overseas Highway wasn’t always rates an astonishing 42 bridges by small green signs on the road’s a road. It began as a railroad, the over the open waters of the Atlantic shoulder or median, the tang of salt brainchild of millionaire , Ocean, and the Gulf of air wafts in through the open car who envisioned a train route connect- Mexico. From the top of some of the windows. The Upper Keys, including ing all the Florida Keys and mainland larger spans, particularly in the Up- Key Largo and Islamorada, give way Florida. Flagler inspired an army of per Keys, the individual islands in the to the Middle Keys and Marathon, a men to spend seven years construct- sprawling Keys chain look tiny and family-friendly community whose top ing the railroad’s bridges and land- fragile against the sea and sky. draws include charter fishing and based tracks, and in 1912 the first Yet despite their small size, these environmental attractions like the train pulled into Key West. islands support lively, picturesque unique Turtle Hospital. After only two-plus decades of … the Highway that Goes to Sea

4 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler carrying freight and wealthy vacation- ers, much of the railroad was badly damaged in a 1935 hurricane. Three years later the Overseas Highway debuted, built on a foundation that incorporated some of the original railway spans. In 1982, 37 original bridges, in- cluding the Seven Mile Bridge, were replaced with wider ones. Today, drivers see many of the old bridges The Overseas Highway bisects the and Gulf of Mexico in the photo above stretching alongside their modern that was shot high above the Lower Keys. Below, the recently completed is a spectacular scenic entrance to Key Largo and the rest of the Florida Keys. counterparts. Some have become popular sportfishing piers. boat traffic. Once a vital link between southernmost city — situated closer Chief among the original bridges is islands, it’s now a walking trail lead- to than — is embedded the Old Seven Mile Bridge, a weath- ing to , a pocket-sized in its quaint, palm-shaded streets, ered expanse of majestic arches island with a restored railroad camp century-old gingerbread mansions, and cracked roadway that parallels and museum showcasing Flagler’s superlative sunsets and flourishing the new bridge — though its center achievement. creative community. span has been removed to allow Past the bridge, the scenery It is, of course, possible to leave becomes wilder and more deserted. Miami and travel the entire length of This is Big Pine Key and the Lower the Overseas Highway, through all Keys Highway Keys, a realm of small communities, the Keys to Key West, in less than Is ‘All-American’ ecotourism and wildlife refuges cre- four hours. ated to protect species including the But veteran Keys travelers know a The Overseas Highway has been miniature . Beautiful Bahia hurried approach is not the way to named an All-American Road, the Honda State Park and the Old Bahia experience this laid-back destination. highest honor a United States Honda Bridge beckon to the left of Take it easy. Experience the true roadway can earn under the the road, inviting exploration. flavor of each region of the Florida National Scenic Byways program. Eventually the Lower Keys segue Keys. Take pleasure in the ever- To earn All-American Road into Key West, where the highway changing land- and seascapes to be status, a thoroughfare must pos- ends amid 19th-century charm viewed from the “Highway that Goes sess characteristics of national and contemporary attractions. The to Sea.” significance and ambiance of continental America’s PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDY NEWMAN one-of-a-kind features, making it a visitor desti- nation in itself. Designation also is based on a roadway’s cultural, his- toric, natural, recreational, scenic and archeological qualities. “The Overseas Highway provides a one-of-a-kind driving experience through some of the nation’s most spectacular scenery,” said Judy Hull of the Florida Keys Scenic Corridor Alliance. “It’s a road known around the world.”

Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 5 Bring the Kids DOLPHIN RESEARCH CTR. Marathon Offers Family Fun

ocated at the middle of the search facility. Fun-filled interactive Turtle fans are fascinated by Mara- Florida Keys, Marathon of- programs include Dolphin Encounter, thon’s Turtle Hospital, the only facility fers activities for people of Meet the Dolphin, Trainer for a Day, of its kind in the world. Caring staff Lall ages. Spectacular boat- Dolphin Dip and Paint with a Dolphin. treat sick and injured sea turtles and ing, fishing, diving, snorkeling and return them to the wild whenever marine-based and eco-attractions possible, or give them a permanent are among the popular draws of this home. Educational tours introduce family-friendly paradise. visitors to loggerhead, green, hawks- Visitors can swim year-round with bill and Kemp’s ridley turtles. gentle, ever-curious dolphins at two Families also can enjoy Crane Marathon–area facilities while learn- Point, a 63-acre park that’s home to ing about their behaviors and how to the Museum of Natural History, Ad- interact with them. derley Town Historic Site, Marathon Based at Hawk’s Resort on Wild Bird Center, Children’s Museum , Dolphin Connection offers and navigable nature trails that lead supervised contact with dolphins in through a dense tropical forest to ANDY NEWMAN programs such as Dolphin Discovery Florida Bay. Kids and adults alike and Dockside Dolphins, an adventure love the marine touch tanks and for family groups with children age 5 popular 17th-century “galleon,” an in- and older. teractive vessel complete with pirate Dolphin Research Center on garb and treasure. is a teaching and re- – Julie Botteri

6 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Nature’s Palette Thrives at Key West Botanical Garden

An oasis of natural tranquility, the Key West Tropical Forest & Bo- tanical Garden is the only frost-free tropical moist forest garden in the continental United States. Founded in the and maintained primarily by volunteers, the 15-acre garden is just off U.S. Highway 1 near the entrance to Key West. It features more than 6,000

plants and trees — including KeyAll photos courtesy West Tropical Forest & Botanical Garden tropical fruit trees, native fragrant plants, native palms, champion trees, tropical spices and local herbs — and provides habitat for 35 butterfly species and more than 270 migratory bird species. Visitors can tour the unique site daily, enjoying a short film, four self-guided tours, two miles of boardwalk trails and a courtyard with a waterfall wall of orchids. – Carol Shaughnessy

The Key West Tropical Forest & Botanical Garden is a 15-acre natural enclave of colorful plants, above, as well as native palms, fruit trees and indigenous and rare vegetation. At left, visitors explore the garden along shaded nature trails. The secluded site also features a one-acre butterfly habitat (right).

keywestbotanicalgarden.org

Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 7 ANDY NEWMAN

he top of the vessel’s superstructure is still vis- The fish have already moved in, but many more are ible from the water’s surface, punctuated by the likely to take up residence. platform-like kingpost and iconic parabolic anten- For safety and ease, divers descend along a lead line Tnae, glowing white and beckoning from below. attached to one of the wreck’s six mooring lines placed But algae and soft are beginning to grow and intermittently along the 523 feet that stretch from bow cover the hull and eventually the white will fade to blend to stern — and the adventure of diving the Gen. Hoyt S. in with colors of the ocean life. Vandenberg begins. Over the course of decades the ship’s hull is likely to Lying in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, become densely populated with species of , spong- seven miles south of Key West, the Vandenberg is the es, invertebrates, sea fans and sea whips. second-largest ship ever purposely scuttled to become

8 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler MATEO GARCIA fla-keys.com/diving/vandenberg.cfm

HAIG JACOBS STEPHEN FRINK

an artificial reef. The hull rests on sand at depths averag- Baldwin and Donald Sutherland. ing 145 feet, but the ship is so massive that the super- The former U.S. Air Force missile-tracking ship was structure begins about 45 feet below the surface. scuttled in May 2009, after 13 years of effort, complet- Rich in history, the Vandenberg once tracked the ing the Florida Keys Shipwreck Trail. The Keyswide trail U.S. space program’s launches off Cape Canaveral, of intentionally sunk vessels begins off Key Largo with a monitored U.S. defense missile test launches and former Navy landing ship dock, the Spiegel Grove, and eavesdropped on Russian missile launches during the ends with the Vandenberg, the Keys’ newest paradise for othersideboardsports.com Cold War. It even starred as a Russian science vessel in divers. sevensports.com Paul“Virus,” Menta a 1999 of The filmKitehouse featuring paddles Jamie his board Lee offCurtis, Key West. William thekitehouse.com– Julie Botteri

Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 9 Islamorada’s Cheeca Lodge The Studios of Key West The Studios of Key Transformed slamorada’s landmark Cheeca Lodge & Spa, originally opened as the Olney Inn in 1946, is cel- Iebrating its rebirth and construc- tion of a new main lodge building. The historic property, which closed for almost a year after a New Year’s Eve fire in December 2008, is to provide enhanced offerings while maintaining its signature leisurely elegance. Cheeca’s new four-story main lodge is built to LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) specifications set forth by the U.S. Green Building Council. Artist Rick Worth instructs a painting ‘boot camp’ at The Studios of Key West. The new building includes 62 oceanfront and island view suites. At Studios of Key West Offer 840 square feet, including 24-foot- wide balconies, they feature floor- to-ceiling glass walls opening to Artistry and Inspiration panoramic ocean or island views, hough established just three years ago, The Studios of Key West private lanais, open-air round tubs have become an integral part of Key West’s artistic and cultural for two with dramatic overhead tub identity — offering stimulating workshops and programs, exhibitions fillers and marble and glass rain of fine art and photography, concerts and creative opportunities for T showers for two. cheeca.com artists and art lovers. Headquartered in a meticulously restored historic armory building at 600 White St., the not-for-profit cultural organization is dedicated to supporting Key West’s creative community, fostering new artistic projects and partner- ships, and advancing the cultural life of the island. Today, its campus includes a main hall for workshops, lectures and exhibi- tions, 12 studios for local artists in varying disciplines, a landscaped sculp- ture garden, an artist-residency cottage and four affordable living spaces for Key West artists. Despite a relatively brief history, The Studios have earned a reputation as an innovative and intriguing artistic hub. The organization’s art, music, the- ater and literature programs are designed to entice and inspire. Creative spirits can expand their talents through one-day or multiday work- shops conducted by acclaimed artists and writers, lectures and free profes- sional development opportunities. tskw.org Cheeca Lodge & Spa

10 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Big Pine Key and the Lower Keys Bahia Honda Ranks Among America’s Finest Beaches BOB KRIST

lorida Keys vacationers eager unspoiled surroundings. close to the restrooms, snackbar for the sun, sand and a prime Sandspur Beach slopes gently into and parking area. beach experience can find the sea while Loggerhead features a Bahia Honda concessions opera- Fit at the beaches of Bahia sandbar that is exposed at low tide tors offer snorkel gear and kayak Honda State Park in the Lower Keys. to reveal different natural treasures rentals, as well as boat trips to the Recently the Bahia Honda beaches each day. Caloosa, popular with that parallels the Keys. were ranked second on a list of families, is located conveniently – Kate Burgess-Craddy best United States beaches by the popular international online travel community TripAdvisor. Bike, Stroll or Paddle the The 524-acre Bahia Honda State Park, one of the Keys’ most popu- Keys Overseas Heritage Trail lar camping and recreation areas, egun in 2000 and targeted for completion in 2013, the Florida Keys offers deep near-shore waters for Overseas Heritage Trail is being built on U.S. Highway 1, the road- swimming and snorkeling as well as way that extends the entire length of the Florida Keys. camping, picnicking, watersports, a B The trail is billed as a multiuse bicycle and pedestrian facility that marina and rental cabins. ultimately will extend 106 miles from Key Largo to Key West. It will serve Against a background of as a route for alternative transportation between island communities and a palms, sand dunes and sea oats, recreational greenway for hiking, running, bicycling, in-line skating, fishing three natural coral-sand beaches and kayaking. provide an optimal setting for sun- The Florida Department of Environmental Protection is incorporating 23 ning and swimming in warm, crystal- historic bridges, no longer used for traffic, into the project that is to connect clear water. Beachgoers often spot existing pathways for bicyclists and others. The trails also are being incor- wading and shore birds, especially porated into the Keys’ state parks to allow boaters and kayakers to access during migration season, in the sections of the trails within those parks.

Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 11 By Andy Newman

ll was quiet, except for the gentle slapping of the water There was complete silence, but I against the small boat’s hull. swear I could hear my heart pump- I looked below, mesmer- ing. The water boiled and I was on. AIslamoradaThe drag screamed. I looked at my ized by the shallow gin-clear waters obsession. The thrill of casting to the with turtle grass on the sand seem- spinning reel and within seconds the most skittish fish on the flats, watch- ingly waving us on. spool was half empty and line contin- ing it approach a bait or fly, feeling A crab scurried to get out of our ued to disappear. it eat, then hanging on as it takes path. A wading heron looked at us I was hooked up to a bonefish and off on a drag-burning high-speed run andBones then gracefully took off into the this guy was headed faster than an across the flat is what brings anglers blue sky. F-18 fighter jet winging its way to back time and again. Every bad cast, “There he is,” Jim whispered from Naval Air Station Key West. finicky fish and broken leader is a his perch atop a platform just above tease of what “coulda been.” the outboard motor. “Eleven o’clock. The flats surrounding Islamorada Bonefish are not known for their About 75 feet.” and the rest of the Florida Keys beauty. Blue-greenish on top, with I looked just to the left of the front provide grazing areas for what many silvery sides, the bonefish looks of the boat and saw a tail waving like backcountry anglers consider the like a medium-gray shadow in the a small silver flag above the water’s holy grail of flats fishing albula— water, which explains its nickname surface. vulpes, the hard-to-find, hard-to-see, “grey ghost of the flats.” They have I cast. It wasn’t perfect, but close hard-to-catch bonefish. an inferior mouth and conical nose enough. Bonefishing easily can become an that give them the look of a doofy cartoon character. But pity the angler who fails to respect the grey ghost.

Bonefish are built for speed. Not the short, darting speed of reef fish, but the long-distance run of prey avoiding a tenacious predator. The feel of a hook launches a bonefish into escape velocity. Bonefish have been clocked at 40 miles per hour, according to OceanLink, an educational program iStockphotos 12 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler BOB KRIST

of the National Sciences and exhilaration and despair, pride and whispering something like, “Eleven Engineering Research Council of frustration. And about satisfaction o’clock, 40 feet.” You have to know Canada. There’s no other inshore after successfully landing a fish and where eleven o’clock is located species that comes close. then releasing it to live and pro- because you probably won’t see the There are eight to 10 specific, vide another angler enjoyment and fish. genetically differentiated bonefish memories that will last a lifetime. Rule number three: make your cast species, depending on whose sci- It’s also about humor. Writer and within three seconds. Don’t think. ence you prefer to believe. But all professional fly fisherman Lefty Kreh Just cast. scientists (and anglers) agree that once said that bonefish “can sure Then accept success or failure the world’s largest (and some say make a good angler look dumb.” with a happy heart. As country music smartest) bonefish live between legend Dolly Parton said, “The way I and Marathon in the In the Keys, a basic knowledge see it, if you want the rainbow, you Middle Keys. bank has evolved that can help the gotta put up with the rain.” fledgling bonefisher. Islamorada journalist and angler Bob Serata Islamorada is “bonefish central.” Rule number one: hire a guide. You contributed to this story. It’s not unusual to hear of 13- or can’t cast to a bonefish unless you 14-pound bonefish being caught in can find one, and they’re not easy to the area, though the average bone is find. Especially for the first-timer. in the 9- to 10-pound range. Rule number two: memorize At left, a bonefish is shown for a But bonefishing is not about biol- a clock face. Your guide is sud- photograph just before it is dehooked and released. Top, the sun sets off Islamorada ogy. It’s about success and failure, denly going to lean over and point, as a guide points to a tailing bonefish.

Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 13 ANDY NEWMAN For the Birds on Key Largo

A flock of flamingos takes flight in the near Key Largo.

hether temporarily injured mangroves, hammocks and wet- or permanently disabled, lands. She even learned how to oper-

wild birds are helped ate on her feathered BELINDA SERATA Wand healed at the Florida patients, repairing Keys Wild Bird Center at mile marker broken wings and re- 93.6 in Tavernier, on the island of moving fishhooks and Key Largo. monofilament line. Located in a natural setting ad- The center’s staff jacent to Florida’s Everglades, the feeds a variety of center is dedicated to rescuing, egrets, owls, herons rehabilitating and releasing ill, injured and cormorants that and orphaned wild birds. Some are either transient or birds, unable to survive in the wild, injured, and bird- become lifelong inhabitants. watchers and eco- The center’s founder, Laura Quinn, tourists are afforded was once a statistician and math- an up-close and per- ematics teacher. After relocating to sonal interaction. In Laura Quinn began the Florida Keys Wild Bird Center in 1991. the Upper Keys, she began crafting addition, visitors can watch dozens The scenic route also features min- woodcarvings of Keys native birds of pelicans that search inquisitively nows and crabs along with colorful and then collaborated with a veteri- for fish buckets. bromeliads enhancing the landscape narian to provide modest avian reha- A self-guided tour along board- and water’s edge. Catching a late bilitation facilities behind her home. walks and nature trails provides a afternoon bird feeding is another In 1991, she opened the center on good look at resident hawks, os- highlight at this natural habitat. 5.5 acres of lush native vegetation, preys, spoonbills, egrets and more. – Julie Botteri

14 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Seafood and Comfort Food Flavor the Keys

n typical Keys fashion, some of A hogfish snapper is headed to the the best restaurants along the grill at the Hogfish Bar & Grill. island chain look quite unassuming Ior are tucked away in hard-to-find locations. Yet each one is a unique, unexpected treasure whose offerings reflect the personalities of its owners, managers and chefs. Key Largo is home to a pair of res- taurants called the Fish House Restau- rant & Fish Market and the Fish House Encore, situated on the Overseas Highway at mile marker (MM) 102.4 oceanside. The menu epitomizes fresh Keys fish and seafood at their best. Farther down the highway in Isla- morada stands the Island Grill, offering seafood and other enticing fare. The restaurant is perched at the water’s edge at the foot of Snake Creek Bridge at MM 85 oceanside. Marathon is home to a little gem of an eatery: Leigh Ann’s Coffee House at MM 50 oceanside, marked by a bill- board featuring a giant coffee cup (or teacup). Hungry visitors will find down- home cooking with an Italian twist and carrot cake to die for. The quirky No Name Pub lies off the Overseas Highway in the Lower Florida Keys, down a winding road and over a humpbacked bridge. The out-of-the-way location doesn’t keep people from dis- covering the local landmark, or falling in love with its world-class pizza. The Lower Keys also features a hide- away just outside Key West — Hog- fish Bar & Grill on . This proudly ramshackle watering hole is a true locals’ spot alongside a working marina. Its signature dish is hogfish, a STEVE BLY diver–caught fish with a light but unpar- alleled flavor. – Kate Burgess-Craddy

Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 15 TheRe iS no app FoR ThiS.

Sunsets so dazzling, they’ve inspired some of the world’s great literary works. Seafood so fresh, you think about ordering it for dessert. Fishing and diving that’s constantly rewriting the book. Real experiences are always worth more. So unplug and reconnect in The Florida Keys. For great savings, go to fla-keys.com.

fla-keys.com ~ 1-800-FLA-KEYS

MCTG-4664 Keys Traveler LO1