Keys TravelerThe Magazine Overseas Highway Is ‘All-American’ Keys for Kids The Grey Ghost Key West Garden A New Dive Wreck Key Largo’s Avian Acres fla-keys.com Visitors to Key West can set sail for afternoon and sunset cruises on the elegant Schooner Halie & Mat- thew, operated by Calypso Water- sports & Charters and docked in front of the island city’s landmark Schooner Wharf Bar. Overnight trips also are offered, as are corporate and group excursions and adventure cruises to pristine Dry Tortugas National Park, located approximately 70 miles west of Key Set Sail West in the Gulf of Mexico. In addition, the Halie & Matthew can be chartered to provide an unforgettable setting for a romantic wedding at sea. The gracious vessel, whose trips are designed to create a windjam- ming experience, can carry up to 90 passengers for day and evening sails and up to 36 passengers for overnight trips. calypsosailing.com ROB O’NEAL 7 Keys TravelerThe Magazine Editor Andy Newman Managing Editor STEVE BLY Carol Shaughnessy Copy Editor Buck Banks Writers Julie Botteri Kate Burgess-Craddy Production Assistant Carolina Bustamante Advertising Director John Underwood Keys Traveler 9 STEPHEN FRINK is published by the Monroe County Tourist Development Council, the official visitor marketing agency for the Florida Keys & Key West. CONTENTS Director Harold Wheeler 4 Traveling the Highway that Goes to Sea Director of Sales Stacey Mitchell 5 Keys Highway is ‘All-American’ Florida Keys & Key West 6 Bring the Kids; Marathon Offers Family Fun Visitors Information www.fla-keys.com 7 Nature’s Palette Thrives at Key West Botanical Garden www.fla-keys.co.uk www.fla-keys.de 8 Into the Briny Deep www.fla-keys.ie www.fla-keys.fr Studios of Key West Offers Artistry and Inspiration www.fla-keys.nl 10 Islamorada’s Cheeca Lodge Transformed www.fla-keys.be Toll-Free in the U.S. and Canada Bahia Honda Ranks Among America’s Finest Beaches 1-800-FLA-KEYS 11 Bike, Stroll or Paddle the Keys Overseas Heritage Trail For the free monthly “Keys Traveler” 12 Islamorada Bones electronic newsletter, subscribe at 14 For the Birds on Key Largo www.fla-keys.com/keystraveler 15 Seafood and Comfort Food Flavor the Keys © 2009 Monroe County Tourist Development Council Printed in the U.S.A. By Original Impressions 10 The Florida Keys & Key West twitter.com/thefloridakeys 14 Cover photo of the modern (left) and historic (right) Seven Mile bridges in Marathon by Andy Newman Studios of Key West Traveling… The road unrolls like a long dark ribbon in front of the car, with immense vistas of turquoise Just southwest of Marathon lies By Carol Shaughnessy water and paler blue sky stretching the undisputed jewel of the Overseas endlessly on either side. communities. The highway winds Highway: the Seven Mile Bridge. Driving from mainland Florida down past Upper Keys marinas housing Driving across the 6.79-mile span the Overseas Highway, it’s easy to sportfishing fleets and sailing yachts, over water, you realize why the understand why the southernmost oceanfront villas surrounded by original bridge was nicknamed “the leg of U.S. Highway 1 is often re- palms and flowering plants, enticing eighth wonder of the world” after its ferred to as the “Highway that Goes seafood restaurants and resorts both completion in the early 1900s. to Sea.” upscale and funky. Yet the Seven Mile Bridge wasn’t In fact, from Key Largo to Key “Cruising” farther down the high- always a highway bridge — and the West, the 113-mile road incorpo- way, with passing miles marked Overseas Highway wasn’t always rates an astonishing 42 bridges by small green signs on the road’s a road. It began as a railroad, the over the open waters of the Atlantic shoulder or median, the tang of salt brainchild of millionaire Henry Flagler, Ocean, Florida Bay and the Gulf of air wafts in through the open car who envisioned a train route connect- Mexico. From the top of some of the windows. The Upper Keys, including ing all the Florida Keys and mainland larger spans, particularly in the Up- Key Largo and Islamorada, give way Florida. Flagler inspired an army of per Keys, the individual islands in the to the Middle Keys and Marathon, a men to spend seven years construct- sprawling Keys chain look tiny and family-friendly community whose top ing the railroad’s bridges and land- fragile against the sea and sky. draws include charter fishing and based tracks, and in 1912 the first Yet despite their small size, these environmental attractions like the train pulled into Key West. islands support lively, picturesque unique Turtle Hospital. After only two-plus decades of … the Highway that Goes to Sea 4 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler carrying freight and wealthy vacation- ers, much of the railroad was badly damaged in a 1935 hurricane. Three years later the Overseas Highway debuted, built on a foundation that incorporated some of the original railway spans. In 1982, 37 original bridges, in- cluding the Seven Mile Bridge, were replaced with wider ones. Today, drivers see many of the old bridges The Overseas Highway bisects the Atlantic Ocean and Gulf of Mexico in the photo above stretching alongside their modern that was shot high above the Lower Keys. Below, the recently completed Jewfish Creek Bridge is a spectacular scenic entrance to Key Largo and the rest of the Florida Keys. counterparts. Some have become popular sportfishing piers. boat traffic. Once a vital link between southernmost city — situated closer Chief among the original bridges is islands, it’s now a walking trail lead- to Cuba than Miami — is embedded the Old Seven Mile Bridge, a weath- ing to Pigeon Key, a pocket-sized in its quaint, palm-shaded streets, ered expanse of majestic arches island with a restored railroad camp century-old gingerbread mansions, and cracked roadway that parallels and museum showcasing Flagler’s superlative sunsets and flourishing the new bridge — though its center achievement. creative community. span has been removed to allow Past the bridge, the scenery It is, of course, possible to leave becomes wilder and more deserted. Miami and travel the entire length of This is Big Pine Key and the Lower the Overseas Highway, through all Keys Highway Keys, a realm of small communities, the Keys to Key West, in less than Is ‘All-American’ ecotourism and wildlife refuges cre- four hours. ated to protect species including the But veteran Keys travelers know a The Overseas Highway has been miniature Key deer. Beautiful Bahia hurried approach is not the way to named an All-American Road, the Honda State Park and the Old Bahia experience this laid-back destination. highest honor a United States Honda Bridge beckon to the left of Take it easy. Experience the true roadway can earn under the the road, inviting exploration. flavor of each region of the Florida National Scenic Byways program. Eventually the Lower Keys segue Keys. Take pleasure in the ever- To earn All-American Road into Key West, where the highway changing land- and seascapes to be status, a thoroughfare must pos- ends amid 19th-century charm viewed from the “Highway that Goes sess characteristics of national and contemporary attractions. The to Sea.” significance and ambiance of continental America’s PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDY NEWMAN one-of-a-kind features, making it a visitor desti- nation in itself. Designation also is based on a roadway’s cultural, his- toric, natural, recreational, scenic and archeological qualities. “The Overseas Highway provides a one-of-a-kind driving experience through some of the nation’s most spectacular scenery,” said Judy Hull of the Florida Keys Scenic Corridor Alliance. “It’s a road known around the world.” Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 5 Bring the Kids DOLPHIN RESEARCH CTR. Marathon Offers Family Fun ocated at the middle of the search facility. Fun-filled interactive Turtle fans are fascinated by Mara- Florida Keys, Marathon of- programs include Dolphin Encounter, thon’s Turtle Hospital, the only facility fers activities for people of Meet the Dolphin, Trainer for a Day, of its kind in the world. Caring staff Lall ages. Spectacular boat- Dolphin Dip and Paint with a Dolphin. treat sick and injured sea turtles and ing, fishing, diving, snorkeling and return them to the wild whenever marine-based and eco-attractions possible, or give them a permanent are among the popular draws of this home. Educational tours introduce family-friendly paradise. visitors to loggerhead, green, hawks- Visitors can swim year-round with bill and Kemp’s ridley turtles. gentle, ever-curious dolphins at two Families also can enjoy Crane Marathon–area facilities while learn- Point, a 63-acre park that’s home to ing about their behaviors and how to the Museum of Natural History, Ad- interact with them. derley Town Historic Site, Marathon Based at Hawk’s Cay Resort on Wild Bird Center, Children’s Museum Duck Key, Dolphin Connection offers and navigable nature trails that lead supervised contact with dolphins in through a dense tropical forest to NEWMAN ANDY programs such as Dolphin Discovery Florida Bay. Kids and adults alike and Dockside Dolphins, an adventure love the marine touch tanks and for family groups with children age 5 popular 17th-century “galleon,” an in- and older. teractive vessel complete with pirate Dolphin Research Center on garb and treasure. Grassy Key is a teaching and re- – Julie Botteri 6 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Nature’s Palette Thrives at Key West Botanical Garden An oasis of natural tranquility, the Key West Tropical Forest & Bo- tanical Garden is the only frost-free tropical moist forest garden in the continental United States.