2019 年 6 月・中印・印パ国境辺境高地の旅 (Rev 2020 0602)
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Sherpi Kangri II, Southeast Ridge Pakistan, Karakoram, Saltoro Group
AAC Publications Sherpi Kangri II, Southeast Ridge Pakistan, Karakoram, Saltoro Group Sherpi Kangri II (ca 7,000m according to Eberhard Jurgalski and the Miyamori and Seyfferth maps; higher and lower heights also appear in print) lies at 35°28'45"N, 76°48'21"E on the Line of Control between the India- and Pakistan-controlled sectors of the East Karakoram. Prior to 2019, it had been attempted only once. In 1974, a Japanese expedition trying the east ridge of Sherpi Kangri I (7,380m) gave up and instead reported fixing around 1,000m of rope up the southeast ridge of Sherpi Kangri II, before retreating at 6,300m due to technical difficulty. On August 7, Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvel, and I (all USA) summited this peak via the southeast ridge in seven days round trip from base camp. Porter shortages resulted in a significantly lower base camp than we had planned—at around 3,700m on the west bank of the Sherpi Gang Glacier, more or less level with the first icefall. This required establishing three additional camps several kilometers apart, ferrying loads through complicated terrain, to reach the glacier plateau below the peak. After investing much time and energy on this approach, including portering some of our own loads to base camp, we did not have time to acclimatize as slowly as we would have liked for higher elevations. We therefore chose the seemingly nontechnical southeast ridge, so that we could bail quickly if one of us began to show signs of acute altitude sickness. We climbed to the summit from our highest glacier camp over two days, with one bivouac on the ridge. -
On the Death Trail
HARISH KAPADIA On the Death Trail A Journey across the Shyok and Nubra valleys ater levels in the Shyok were rising and within a week our route W would be closed. It was 17 May 2002 and we had arrived in Shyok village just in the nick of time. The trail from here to the Karakoram Pass is known as the 'Winter Trail' as it is only in that season that the Shyok river is crossable. The name itself carries a warning: in Ladakhi 5hi means 'death' and yak means 'river', literally the 'the river of death'. It has to be crossed 24 times and many travellers have perished in its floods. Our party comprised five Japanese and six Indian mountaineers accompanied by an army liaison officer. We were at the start of a long journey covering the two large valleys of the Shyok and the Nubra rivers, in Ladakh, East Karakoram. It is forbidding terrain. Our ambitious plan was to follow the Shyok, visit the Karakoram Pass, cross the Col Italia, explore the Teram Shehr plateau and finally descend via the Siachen glacier. In between all this, we planned to climb the virgin peak Padmanabh (7030m). Back in the 19th century, the British tried to build a formal trail here by blasting rocks on the left bank in order to minimise the crossings. We could see blast marks on the rocks, though at many places our own trail was on the opposite bank. The project was abandoned and Ladakhi caravans continue to use the traditional route, crossing and re-crossing the Shyok five or six times each day. -
East Karakoram and the Siachen Glacier
EAST KARAKORAM AND THE SIACHEN GLACIER - THE LAND OF RUBBLE AND ROSES To a normal man, any high place is an invitation. Of course, not all men can become mountaineers. And though the calculating and practical man of the world has little use for the exploits of the mountaineer, the world owes little to its practical men, whereas great is its debt to its adventurers. G K, Canadian Alpine Journal, 1928 As one stands on Khardung La in Ladakh, at 5,602 m one of the highest motorable pass in the world, the view in all directions is stupendous. At its foot, the river Shyok, flowing from the east meets the Nubra river from the north, near Khalsar. It then makes its way to the west, merging with the Indus near Skardu. Rising between these two river valleys of the Nubra and the Shyok, and in the area to the east are the mountains of East Karakoram. The high peaks of the Saser Kangri group are seen on the horizon, and to the east are the relatively unknown summits of the Arganglas area, first explored as recently as 2001 by an international team that ascended the Yamandaka (6,218 m) and visited the Arganglas, Rassa and Yah glaciers in the Arganglas valley, proving that exploration in the real sense of the word is still possible in the Indian Himalaya. This forbidding land with its harsh winters, flooding rivers, deep valleys and rough tracks, is one of the northernmost areas of the country. Situated on the eastern tip of this area is the Karakoram pass. -
The Eastern Karakoram
33 The Eastern Karakoram Harish Kapadia Plates 2-10 The early explorers knew no boundaries except those of mountain ranges but present day mountaineers and explorers have to respect political boundaries and territorial regulations. Only since 1984 have all the ranges of the E Karakoram been opened to climbers by the Indian Government. At first while planning for the Siachen Indo-British Expedition 1985 to the Terong valley, one felt that the area was not frequented, remote; that information was scarce and approach difficult. However, upon a little research it was found that more than 40 parties had visited the area. Information and various references were scattered over a large number of books and journals. The Karakoram has many opportunities for climbing and exploration and it is bound to receive many mountaineering parties in the future. In early days, caravans from Srinagar to the Siachen snout took nearly 50 days; now it would be but five! The E Karakoram consists of the Siachen Muztagh, the Rimo Muztagh, and the Saser Muztagh as a sub-group of the Great Karakoram. I All these groups consist of various sub-groups and peaks as classified in the Karakoram Conference report of 1936. Out of these the Siachen Muztagh was explored thoroughly, while the Rimo Muztagh and Saser Muztagh received a few parties. The Siachen Muztagh The peaks surrounding the Siachen glacier form this group. In 1821, W Moorcroft passed near its snout and first acknowledged its existence. 2 In 1835 GT Vigne approached it from the west trying to reach the Bilafond la, but he never guessed the existence of such a large glacier across the divide. -
7,000 - 8,000M Peaks
7,000 - 8,000m Peaks World Rank Height ( Name Location Rank (Pakistan) m) Gasherbrum III (K3a) 7952 Karakoram Baltoro Muztagh 17 6 Gasherbrum IV (K3) 7925 19 7 Distaghil Sar 7885 Hispar Muztagh 21 8 Kunyang Chhish 7852 22 9 Masherbrum (K1) 7821 Masherbrum Mountains 25 10 Batura I 7795 Batura Muztagh 26 11 Kanjut Sar 7790 Hispar Muztagh 27 12 Rakaposhi 7788 Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains Batura II 7762 Batura Muztagh 31 Saltoro Kangri (K10) 7742 Saltoro Mountains Batura III 7729 Batura Muztagh 33 13 Tirich Mir 7706 Hindu Kush 36 14 Chogolisa I 7665 Karakoram Masherbrum Mountains 38 15 Shispare 7611 Batura Muztagh Silberzacken 7597 Himalaya Nanga Parbat Batura IV 7594 Karakoram Batura Muztagh Unnamed 7581 39 16 Trivor 7577 Hispar Muztagh 44 17 Skyang Kangri 7545 Baltoro Muztagh 52 18 Noshaq 7492 Hindu Kush 53 19 Pumari Chhish (W) 7492 Karakoram Hispar Muztagh 54 20 Passu Sar 7476 Batura Muztagh 55 21 Yukshin Gardan Sar 7530 Hispar 58 23 Malubiting (W) 7458 Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains 61 24 K12 7428 Saltoro Mountains Muchu Chhish 7453 Batura Muztagh 63 25 Sia Kangri 7422 Baltoro Muztagh 64 26 Momhil Sar 7343 Hispar Muztagh 66 27 Skil Brum 7420 Baltoro Muztagh 67 28 Haramosh 7409 Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains 68 29 Istor-o-nal 7403 Hindu Kush 69 30 Ghent Kangri 7400 Karakoram Saltoro Mountains 70 31 Ultar Sar 7388 Batura Muztagh 74 33 Sherpi Kangri 7380 Saltoro Mountains 78 34 Saraghrar 7349 Hindu Kush 81 35 Chongtar 7315 Karakoram Baltoro Muztagh 82 36 Baltoro Kangri 7280 Masherbrum Mountains 88 37 Yutmaru Sar 7283 Hispar Jutmo Sar 7330 Bojohagur -
236 the AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL and Towers Offer Scrambles, but in Winter the Sar Provide Remarkable Ski- Mountaineering
236 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL and towers offer scrambles, but in winter the Sar provide remarkable ski- mountaineering. The mountains of grass and scree become headwalls, ridges, long slopes of powder snow, chutes hundreds of meters long and gleaming with ice, great cornices, frost feathers a meter long. The Sar can be as good as anything you can find. STANLEYS.SHEPARD AFRICA Mount Kenya and Hell’s Gate Crag. Paul Braithwaite and I spent four weeks in East Africa. We visited Hell’s Gate Crag with the local hard-man, Ian Howell, who took us up the classic route of the crag Olympian. I managed to free-climb the pegging pitches. Braithwaite and I then went off to Mount Kenya and made a new direct route up the steep northeast face via the Grey Pillar. We made the climb in 15 hours with a bivouac midway up the route on continuously clean jam-cracks. Back at Hell’s Gate we teamed up with the other local hard-man, Ian Allen and put up two more new routes. During the last week we returned to Mount Kenya and climbed the fabulous Diamond Couloir via the steep headwall and continued on up to the Gate of the Mist and then to the top of Bastian, the highest point of Mount Kenya. We descended via Nelion and the Shipton route in a continuous 14-hour day. I wish to call attention to the earlier ascent of the whole of the Diamond Couloir by the American Phil Snyder and the local Vikuyu, Corporal Thumbi. -
I Am Just Back from the Siachen Glacier. I Reached the Indira Col at the Head of the Glacier and the Turkestan La. Others Reache
1 THE INDIAN SIACHEN EXPEDITION R O S E 1 9 9 8 R e p o r t Harish Kapadia Leader An expedition by The Mountaineers,Bombay 72, Vijay Apartments,16, Carmichael Road,Bombay - 400 026. Phones: (91-22) 495 0772 - 201 3227 Fax : 496 8804 E-Mail: [email protected] 2 THE INDIAN SIACHEN EXPEDITION ROSE 1998 SUMMARY Area : The Siachen glacier, East Karakoram. Members: Harish Kapadia (leader), Vijay Kothari, Cyrus Shroff, Divyesh Muni, Vineeta Muni, and Kaivan Mistry with Captain Ashish Suhag (liaison officer). Period: From 20th June to 3rd August 1998 Sponsored by : The Mountaineers, Bombay. Result: The expedition approached the Siachen Glacier from its snout. One party reached the Indira Col West, India Saddle and Turkestan La East. Another party made the first ascent of Bhujang (6560 m) on the edge of the Teram Shehr Plateau. Passes and Peak reached/climbed by the Rose expedition 1998 Name Long. (East) Date Reached Members of the Rose expedition Lat. (North) 1998, who reached the pass/peak. 1. Turkestan La 76o 51’ 30” 20th July 1998 Harish Kapadia, Kaivan Mistry, (East) 35o 39’ 00” Vijay Kothari, Vineeta Muni, (5810 m) Captain Ashish Suhag and Traditional pass Pemba Tsering 2. Indira Col 76o 48’ 10” 22nd July Harish Kapadia and Pemba (West) 35o 39’ 40” 1998 Tsering (5840 m) 3. India Saddle 76o 48’ 20” 22nd July Kaivan Mistry, Vijay Kothari, (6000 m) 35o 39’ 50” 1998 Vineeta Muni and Captain Ashish Suhag. 4. Bhujang Peak 77o 12’ 00” 20th July 1998 Divyesh Muni, Cyrus Shroff, (6560 m) 35o 24’ 00” Kusang Dorjee, Samgyal, First Ascent Pasang and Pema Sherpa 3 Passes in the north and east observed Pass Long. -
Mountaineering and War on the Siachen Glacier
HARISH KAPADIA Mountaineering and War on the Siachen Glacier (Plates 14,15) or every mountaineer some areas are more attractive than others. For Fme the lure of the East Karakoram worked like a magnet. I had not visited any trans-Himalayan areas since 1980. But once I had found a trail there, the grey and barren valleys of the East Karakoram became my main area of travel and climbing. What differentiated this area from the others was its rich history. Caravans had passed through here for centuries; Dogra generals had conquered the area and 'The Great Game' was played within its confmes. Visiting this region was almost as much an intellectual pleasure as a physical achievement. Amongst all these ranges the Siachen Glacier, with its long history, high mountains and present-day war scenario, became a major attraction. I had crossed the snout of the Siachen in 1985 for the first time, explored the Terong Valley, climbed peaks and played a small part in its history. I nursed a desire to return there to reach the head of this long glacier. After a great deal of correspondence with several government departments, I got permission to trek there in 1996. We first climbed in a side valley, Terong. When we returned to enter the main glacier, we received the incredible and devastating news that our permits had been withdrawn by a senior commander in the army. Reason and compromise did notwork. He wouldn't budge. Our protests followed and as we returned to Leh the army relented and I was asked if we would go back. -
The Baltoro Glacier, Karakoram Range, Pakistan at 63 Kilometers the Baltoro Is the World’S Second Longest Non-Polar Glacier
The Baltoro Glacier, Karakoram Range, Pakistan At 63 kilometers the Baltoro is the world’s second longest non-polar glacier. The glacier is a popular trekking route as well as providing access to the K2 Basecamp for climbs of the 8611 meter peak (out of frame to the left in the image below). Camps on the route are shown as triangle on the map at lower left. This panorama was probably made early in the twentieth century. Multiple prints were spliced together to give the better than 180 degree view you see here. It appears to be a contact print from the original negatives, meaning the camera and its accessories likely weighed over 100 pounds. The framed panorama is a digitally restored copy of the heavily water-damaged original now stored in the Bentley Library. The Baltoro Glacier and the surrounding region from the International Space Station. Aerial view of the Baltoro Glacier and the surrounding region. Siachen Glacier World's Largest Non-Polar Glacier 75km long K2 Abruzzi Glacier Sia La Basecamp Gasherbrum 3 & 4 Pass connecting Baltoro Kangri Siachen Glacier Panorama Taken 7952m & 7925m 7742m Broad Peak from this with Kondus Saltoro Kangri Basecamp Valley, Pakistan 7742m Mustagh Tower Concordia Vigne Glacier Gasherbrum 7 Gasherbrum 1 Sia Kangri 1,2,3 & 4 8035m 8068m 7422m K2 8611m Kondus Chogolisa Mitre Mitre Peak Broad Peak 8047m 6025m Glacier 7665m Biango Glacier Peak Chogolisa Gore 2 Muztagh Glacier Biale Glacier Yermanendu Glacier Dunge Glacier Mandu Glacier Urdukas Trango Towers Trango Glacier Masherbrum Uli Baiju Panorama Taken from this Location Gondorgoro La Paiju Peak Pass connecting Hushe Valley Dumoror River Liligo Glacier Paiju with Baltoro Glacier Jola Biafo Glacier Braldu River Baltoro Glacier 10 km Camps Baltoro Glacier, Looking East, by Guilhem Vellut. -
Asian Alpine E-News Issue No.25
ASIAN ALPINE E–NEWS Issue No. 25, May 2018 Mt. Siguniang, Sichuan-China: (left) N/NW face (right) S face/SE ridge – Photos by Kenzo Okawa CONTENTS Legendary Maps from The Himalayan Club Commemorating 90 years of Iconic Institution-General Editor, Harish Kapadia Page 2~5 Feature Articles – Mountaineering in Japan Japanese Mountaineering in the Himalaya ―Before and after World War II― Kinichi Yamamori Page 6~39 From the Japanese Alps to the Greater Ranges of the World Winter Climbs in Home Grounds Fostered Japanese Himalayan Expeditions Tsunemichi Ikeda Page 40~51 1 1 2 3 4 KINICHI YAMAMORI Japanese Mountaineering in the Himalaya Before and after World War II Mountain climbing in Japan dates back much farther in the form of mountain worship before modern mountaineering and alpine climbing. A century ago, ahead of Sven Hedin, a Japanese monk, Ekai Kawaguchi, crossed the Himalaya from Nepal though Dolpo and reached Lhasa in 1901 to search and learn Tibetan Buddhist scriptures. In those days Japan was stepping up modernization efforts after victories in the Sino-Japanese War (1894–1895) and the Russo-Japanese War (1904–1905). Japan was about to be a hive of industry being prepared for development in the forthcoming 20th century. 1 In 1900, a professor at Waseda University translated “Voyage d’ une parisienne dans 1’ Himalaya occidental” narrative of a journey to Askole written by Mme. Ujfalvy-Boudon. That was the first book on the Himalaya published in Japan. Alpinism in the Cradle In October, 1905, Usui Kojima, Hisayoshi Takeda and several other members first established an organization called “The Japanese Alpine Club”. -
Stok Kangri Peak (6120M) 2 to 16 September 2018 Explore the Hidden Kingdom of Ladakh with Stok Kangri Peak
Stok Kangri Peak (6120m) 2 to 16 September 2018 Explore the hidden kingdom of Ladakh with Stok Kangri Peak Stok Kangri is a perfect objective for fit trekkers without climbing experience, and is one of the few achievable Himalayan peaks. It is one of the dominant peaks in the Zansker range, situated in the fascinating region of Ladakh, north India. This high and arid landscape has captured the imagination of travellers since it first opened to visitors in 1974. The expedition travels through remote valleys, scattered high villages and past hilltop monasteries to the base of the mountain. The South Ridge provides an exhilarating climb in these fantastic surroundings. Although technically straightforward, the route is challenging, giving spectacular views of the Karakoram Range and on a clear day, even K2 in the far distance. One of the highlights of the trip is the exciting flight into Leh, and spending time exploring the ancient capital of Ladakh. The regal air of the city, with its 'potala-like' palace and the charm of the friendly and traditionally dressed Ladakhi people, all contribute to the experience of this breath-taking expedition. Detailed itinerary 2 September: London to Delhi 6 September: Leh to Shang Sumdo 8 September cont. Depart London on overnight flight to Delhi. 4hrs trekking (3800m) We climb gradually to reach the Shang La After breakfast a transfer to Shang Sumdo pass at 4800m passing scrubs and wild 3 September: Delhi to Leh (3800m) via Thiksey monastery which is rose bushes and may see Himalayan We connect with our flight to Leh, the perched on the summit of a sugarloaf Marmots. -
Markha Valley Trail with Stok Kangri, (6137Ms) Ladakh, Indian Himalayas
Markha Valley Trail with Stok Kangri, (6137ms) Ladakh, Indian Himalayas This outstanding trek along the wonderful Markha Valley Trail and reaching also to the summit of India’s highest mountain Stok Kangri, (6,137m/20,130ft) is perfect for trekkers, who want the Markha Valley Trail before summiting an Indian Himalayan Peak. The climb is a perfect follow-on for those, who have climbed Kilimanjaro, and it takes you over the 6000 metres threshold. It is also a superb introduction to Himalayan climbing. Ice axe and crampon techniques may be learned during the approach. The climb affords stunning views extending across Ladakh to the Karakorams, the Himalayas and into Tibet. Your Stok Kangri programme takes you from Delhi (please ask our office quote for your hotel and sightseeing) to the Ladakh town of Leh, where you will have plenty of time to acclimatise to the high altitude. You will spend several days acclimatising by visiting the colourful monasteries at Shey, Thikse and Hemis and visiting the world highest motorable road at Khardungla before setting off on the memorable trek to Stok Kangri. On this particular itinerary , we do not take the standard trek route but begin from the little village of Chilling, the only village where metalwork is done in Ladakh. Spending a night here, we cross the Zanskar river by cable to meet with the ponies on the other side and joining the popular route at Skiu. At the end, after crossing the Kongmarula, we again make a diversion into a lesser known but again another beautiful valley with high pastures and great views to Stok Base Camp and the ultimate highlight of our trip – the summit of Stok Kangri ( 6137m) .