Paris Highlights Tour

Around the Marais Walking Tour

Around the Marais Walking Tour cont’d

1. Place des Vosges – starting point 2. 6 Place des Vosges – Victor Hugo’s house and museum 3. 62 rue St. Antoine – Hotel de Sully 4. 19 Place des Vosges – Ma Bourgogne

5. 8 rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde 6. 9 rue des Francs Bourgeois – Camper

7. 3 rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Theiere 8. 7 rue des Rosiers – Custo* 9. 9 rue des Rosiers – La Marthe* 10. 34 rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel 11. 2 rue des Hospitalieres – St. Gervais – Chez Marianne 12. 27 rue des Rosiers – Sacha Finkelsztajn

Around the Marais Walking Tour cont’d

13. 31-33 rue des Blancs Manteaux – Les Bains du Marais

14. 56 rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe 14a. 109 rue Vielle du Temple – Breizh Café 15. 75 rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush 16. 64 rue Vieille du Temple – Robert and Louise 17. 72 rue Vieille du Temple – Des Gars 18. 78 rue Vieille du Temple – La Perle 19. 22 rue de la Perle – Consuelo Zoelly

20. 5 rue Thorigny – Musee Picasso**

(The Picasso Museum is temporarily closed for renovations until 2012.)

Around the Marais Walking Tour cont’d

21. 29-31 rue de Poitou – Hotel du Petit Moulin 22. 39 rue de Bretagne – Marché Enfants Rouges

23. 13 Blvd. du Temple – Murano Hotel

#12) and 6. Camper, 9 rue des Francs- This walk is approx. 1.5 miles and will take Bourgeois, for those great walking shoes from you between 1-4 hours depending how Spain. Turn left on rue Pavée (you can continue much shopping you do and how long you linger. The walk begins at the most beauti- down Francs-Bourgeois but come back for this ful square in Paris and lets you wander turn) and then right on rue des Rosiers. This is a around the ancient, adorable streets of the very famous street in Paris, it is ancient and the Marais. former epicenter of what was primarily a Jewish neighborhood dating back to the 13th century. While the area now is terribly trendy, you can still Begin at the 1. Place des Vosges in the 4th. find synagogues nearby. This square is recognized by most as the oldest and most beautiful square in Paris. (see 15 must There is a great place for tea at 3 rue des Rosiers do’s) The square was built by King Henri IV in named 7. Le Loir dans la Théière, which is 1605 and inaugurated in 1612 for the wedding of next to Annick Goutal’s perfume shop. This tea Louis XIII and Anne of Austria. You can spend salon also serves scrumptious desserts and lovely some real time here either for a drink, breakfast, lunches and the atmosphere is relaxed and artsy. lunch, or dinner, or by visiting the shops and galler- Also we like 8*. Custo at number 7 from Barce- ies underneath the arches. lona, for original and very colorful men’s and women’s shirts. In addition there are two museums on the square, 2. Victor Hugo’s house (open daily 10-5:40, The very chic 9*. Lamarthe for handbags is except mondays) at 6 Place des Vosges (01 42 72 also here at number 9. 10. L’As du Fallafel, 10 16) and Hôtel de Sully at 62 rue St. An- 3. down the street at 34 rue des Rosiers is home to toine (01 44 61 20 00), which has beautiful gar- the most famous falafel in Paris — this is a fun & dens and is a photography museum. Hotel de Sully cheap take-out lunch. As David Lebovitz says in was built in 1625 by Architect Jean Androuet Du his Paris food blog “You can't come to Paris and Cerceau. And at end: Open everyday. You can not have a falafel at L'As. It just isn't done.” also access the museum from 7 Place des Vosges. Continue on down rue des Rosiers, and you’ll 4. Ma Bourgogne at 19 Place des Vosges is a come to 11. Chez Marianne at 2 rue des Hos- great place for a quick coffee before you are off pitalières-St-Gervais on the corner. Chez and is open every day from 8am-1am. This is a Marianne also has falafel plus all the meze you quintessential Parisian bistro, not fancy food but can eat if you prefer to sit down, and the setting is hearty and uncomplicated fare. Heaters are often more charming than L’As. Note: Falafel places are turned on so you can sit outside and enjoy the view often closed on Saturdays and quite busy on Sun- of the Place even in winter. A page on everything days. Save room for the Russian & Jewish pas- Place des Vosges has to offer can be found here. tries across the street at 12. Sacha Finkelsztajn at 27 rue des Rosiers. At the end As you face Pavillon de la Reine, the only hotel on of rue des Rosiers turn right and continue on rue the square, exit the square to the left and continue Vieille-du-Temple. on rue des Francs-Bourgeois to check out the shops. There are many here we like including Rue des Blancs-Manteaux has some cute shops 5. Autour du Monde at #8 and #12 rue des as well as the 13. Bains du Marais at 31-33 Francs-Bourgeois (you can find those famous rue des Blancs-Manteaux profiled in the Out of French Bensimon sneakers at the ADM store at the Ordinary section. This is the very chic Turk-

ish hammam and spa and is a great place to wind Museum if you’d like to get some culture in. Take down after a day of walking through Paris. Ham- a right on rue de la Perle and then left on rue de mams, which are similar to a steam room, are all the Thorigny for the Musée Picasso** (The Picasso rage in Paris. (01 44 61 02 02) Call in advance to Museum is temporarily closed for renovations until reserve a massage and steam. 2012.) It’s a small yet very well done museum cov- ering a wide range of his work plus they have some Continue along rue Vieille-du-Temple and you’ll cross wonderful photographs of the artist. The mansion rue des Francs-Bourgeois again if you want to check that houses the museum is gorgeous, as is the gar- out some of the shops you missed earlier. den out back. From here exit out to rue de Thorigny and back to rue Vieille-du-Temple turning left then Back on rue Vieille-du-Temple continuing north you’ll left again on rue des Coutures-Saint-Gervais and pass at 56 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 14. Paul & Joe then right on rue Vieille-du-Temple. Continue to rue a shop we love for both men and women. Note: if de Poitou, where you’ll turn left. The street has you are still hungry tuck into 109 rue Vielle du Tem- many small special shops as well as 21. Christian ple for a scrumptious crepe at . 14a. Breizh Café Lacroix’s Hôtel du Petit Moulin at 29-31 rue This is one of the best creperies in Paris. de Poitou, profiled in our Where To Stay section. Take a peek into the lobby and grab a bro- 15. Manoush at 75 rue Vieille-du-Temple across chure. Turn right at the end of the street onto rue the street is worthy of a look. 16. Robert and Charlot. Continue on Charlot just about to rue de Louise at 64 rue Vieille-du-Temple (01 42 78 55 89) Bretagne where you’ll see an entrance to the 22. is an excellent restaurant on this street, which is pro- Marché des Enfants Rouges on your left. filed in our Dining section. Check it out and see if you’d like to come back for dinner. We adore their This is the oldest covered market in Paris. This steak cooked over the open fire. isn’t a proper food market although there are a few stalls, but it is a great place to buy a cheap 17. Des Gars dans la Cuisine is another res- and excellent lunch if you haven’t already taurant a bit further down at 72 rue Vieille-du-Temple stopped. Enjoy Moroccan, or excellent Japa- (01 42 74 88 27) that attracts a crowd for its trendy nese, French, Italian or Caribbean food — setting and good eats. Continuing further along you’ll tables abound, but order first from the stalls. come to the corner of rue de la Perle and rue Vieille- Exit on rue de Bretagne and enjoy strolling du-Temple where you’ll find the most popular bar in through all the small food vendors on this market the Marais (not counting the gay bars) called 18. La street. Turn right continuing on rue de Bretagne Perle at 78 rue Vieille- du-Temple profiled in our until you reach rue de Saintonge where you’ll Dining section under Bars. Forget getting a table turn left. Turn left again on rue de Turenne and here at night. Everyone just stands and drinks on the right on Charlot until you reach Blvd. du Temple. street hoping to see the models that often frequent the place. If you turn left here you’ll hit the large metro sta- tion of République and if you turn right you can 19. Consuelo Zoelly at 22 rue de la Perle (01 42 72 09 16) is an American/Swiss designer residing in Paris. This is her only shop in Paris. We appreciate her inventive yet very wearable styles.

From here you are very close to the 20. Picasso

take a look at the 23. Murano Hotel at 13 du Marais Blvd. du Temple (one of the trendiest places in Paris). Stop in for a drink if you are dressed for 14. 56 rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe it. Across the street is the historic Cirque d’Hiver. Note the interesting architectural detail 14a.109 rue Vielle du Temple – Breizh Café on the side of this circular building. Metro home but be sure to come back to the Marais for din- 15. 75 rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush ner one evening or at least drinks — it’s always a hopping fun place to be at night. You won’t be 16. 64 rue Vieille du Temple – Robert and Louise far from the Filles du Calvaire metro stop which is slightly further down south on the Boulevard 17. 72 rue Vieille du Temple – Des Gars du Temple at the corner of rue Filles du Calvaire. 18. 78 rue Vieille du Temple – La Perle

19. 22 rue de la Perle – Consuelo Zoelly

20. 5 rue Thorigny – Musee Picasso Points of Interest Addresses 21. 29-31 rue de Poitou– Hotel du Petit Moulin 1. Place des Vosges – starting point 22. 39 rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants 2. 6 Place des Vosges – Victor Hugo’s house and Rouges museum 23. 13 Blvd. du Temple – Murano Hotel 3. 62 rue St. Antoine – Hotel de Sully

4. 19 Place des Vosges – Ma Bourgogne

5. 8 rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde

6. 9 rue des Francs Bourgeois – Camper

7. 3 rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Theiere

8. 7 rue des Rosiers – Custo

9. 9 rue des Rosiers – La Marthe

10. 34 rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel

11. 2 rue des Hospitalieres – St. Gervais – Chez Marianne

12. 27 rue des Rosiers – Sacha Finkelsztajn

13. 31-33 rue des Blancs Manteaux – Les Bains

Jardin d es Tuileries

1. Louvre, rue de Rivoli 2. Café Marly, 93 rue de Rivoli 3. Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107 rue de Rivoli

4. Jardin des Tuileries, rue de Rivoli 5. Musée de L’Orangerie, Jardin des Tuileries 6. Jeu de Paume, 1 place de la Concorde 7. Place de la Concorde 8. Hôtel de Crillon, 10 place de la Concorde 9. WH Smith, 248 rue de Rivoli 10. Pierre Hermé, 4 rue Cambon Jardin des Tuileries

11. Le Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli 12. Angelina, 226 rue de Rivoli 13. Place Vendôme 14. Ritz, 15 Place Vendôme

15. Harry’s New York Bar, 5 rue Daunou 16. Palais Garnier, 1 place de l’Opera 17. Café de la Paix, 12 Boulevard des Capucines

18. Place de la Madeleine 19. Fauchon, 24 – 2 place de la Madeleine 20. Hédiard, 21 place de la Madeleine 21. Eglise de la Madeleine

On this walk, you’ll get a good dose of the world. Look for interesting, frequently culture with a great selection of museums rotating exhibitions at each. to visit, including the world-famous Louvre. It won’t be possible to visit in one day all the Walk out of the museum and through the beautifully landscaped 4. Jardin des museums listed, but this approximate 3 Tuileries (rue de Rivoli). Initially a palace hour walk will give you a good overview, so garden under Catherine de Médicis, the park you can decide where you’d like to return. was later opened to the public and designed And no tour is complete without some by André Le Nôtre, the architect of the gourmet stops to enjoy the many wonderful gardens at Versailles, in the 17th century. Parisian delicacies. Grab one of the iconic green chairs and position it for a prime view of the expansive Start your day as soon as the 1. Louvre (rue gardens and some great people watching. de Rivoli ) opens, at 9 a.m., to avoid some of the crowds, but keep in mind that it’s closed If you haven’t hit museum overload yet, there on Tuesdays. You’ll never be able to see all are two more situated next to the Place de la 35,000 works of art in a day, so pick a few Concorde. The 5. Musée de l’Orangerie highlights, themes or time periods to explore. (Jardin des Tuileries) features Claude Monet’s The Louvre is one of the largest museums in water lily paintings, among other the world and dates back to the 12th century, impressionist work from the 19th and 20th when a fortress was needed to protect the centuries, including pieces by Cézanne, city from an Anglo-Norman attack. It Renoir, Picasso and Matisse. transitioned to a royal fortress and eventually into a museum in 1793. Opposite the Orangerie is the 6. Jeu de Paume (1, Place de la Concorde). Once a If you need a pick-me-up after your visit, sit tennis court, it now focuses on photography on the terrace of 2. Café Marly (93, rue de exhibitions from the 19th to 21st centuries. Rivoli) and enjoy views of I. M. Pei’s glass pyramid, but expect to pay the price for the At the end of the Tuileries, pop out onto the exceptional location and view. 7. Place de la Concorde to see Paris’s largest square and to catch a glimpse of the Arc de Next to the Louvre in the Hall Rohan’s Triomphe at the top of the Champs Elysées. In 3. Musée des Arts Décoratifs (107, rue de the middle of the Place de la Concorde, a Rivoli) are three independently operated statue of Louis XV once stood; it was replaced museums, worth a visit for a look at the role with a guillotine, which was later used for of fashion, design and decorative arts in many notable names, including Louis XVI and industry and culture. The Musée des Arts Marie Antoinette. The 75-foot-tall golden- Décoratifs features decorative arts from the topped obelisk that you now see in the middle Middle Ages to today. The Musée de la Mode of the square used to sit outside the Luxor et du Textile highlights fashion from the 16th Temple and dates back to 1550 BCE. It was century to the present, and the Musée de la given as a gift to France from the viceroy of Publicité features advertising from around Egypt in 1829. The base of the obelisk shows the complex manner in which the 230-ton object was shipped to France. The featured

Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved. 11 Louvre to Opéra Walk hieroglyphics celebrate the reigns of which makes it an octagon. The Place pharaohs, Ramses II and Ramses III, and the Vendôme was initially constructed in the 18th golden top was added by the government in century, and it has seen several statues come 1998. and go over the years, including a homage to Napoleon’s military prowess made from On the western edge of the Place de la Russian and Austrian canons captured during Concorde sits the famed 8. Hôtel de Crillon the battle of Austerlitz. This, too, was (10, Place de la Concorde), once an opulent destroyed and re-created and stands in the home to the Count of Crillon. The first square today. The Place Vendôme is now traveler was welcomed to the hotel in 1909, home to many top-name jewelers and upscale and service has been continuous and near boutiques, in addition to the iconic 14. Ritz perfection ever since. Hotel* (15, Place Vendôme), which is worth a stop for a drink or more to enjoy the beautiful Turn onto rue de Rivoli, and soon on your left decor and people, perhaps including a few you’ll see 9. W. H. Smith (248, rue de Rivoli). celebrities. Stop in if you need any books, travel guides or *Closed for renovations until 2014. magazines written in English. Continue up rue de la Paix, and if you’re still Turn left on rue Cambon for one of the best thirsty, duck into 15. Harry’s New York Bar macarons in Paris at 10. Pierre Hermé (5, rue Daunou), to the right on rue Daunou. (4, rue Cambon). With the shop’s beautiful As the name suggests, Harry’s started in New packaging and sculpted chocolates, it will be York, where an avid patron loved the place so hard to leave without a shopping bag. much that he asked if the whole bar could be moved to Paris, and voilà. Harry’s has been in Continue down rue de Rivoli and you’ll find Paris since 1911. Choose from among the 300 the five-star hotel 11. Le Meurice (228, rue whiskies, or have one of the white-coated de Rivoli), with the three-star Michelin bartenders whip you up a New York specialty. restaurant of the same name. If your budget does not allow for a stay or a meal here, have When you arrive at the major intersection a drink inside and take a peek at the Philippe and roundabout, you’ll immediately see your Starck–designed dining area, resembling an next stop, the 16. Palais Garnier (1, Place de opulent room at Versailles. l’Opéra). Napoleon III ordered construction of this magnificent building, which was the most For something more casual but still beautiful, expensive built during the Second Empire, go next door to 12. Angelina (226, rue de and it was instantly deemed a masterpiece. Rivoli) for a rich, over-the-top hot chocolate, The chandelier in the center of the theatre and try picking just one decadent sweet to was designed by Charles Garnier himself and accompany it. There’s a reason Angelina has weighs in at seven tons with all its bronze and been around for over a century. crystal accoutrements. The brilliant multicolored mural on the ceiling was painted Turn back on rue de Rivoli and make a right in 1964 by Marc Chagall, and each scene up rue de Castiglione to the 13. Place depicts a different story from a different Vendôme, one of Paris’s most prestigious opera. If you can’t get tickets to a squares, though it actually has eight sides, performance but would like to see the inside

Leaving the Opéra with a right onto boulevard Points of Interest Addresses des Capucines, you’ll pass the classic 17. Café de la Paix (12, boulevard des Capucines), a 1. Louvre, rue de Rivoli great stop for a pre- or post-Opéra drink or 2. Café Marly, 93, rue de Rivoli, 01 49 26 06 60 bite. With the café’s gorgeous dining room 3. Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107, rue de Rivoli and terrace, you’ll be drinking where notables 4. Jardin des Tuileries, rue de Rivoli like Oscar Wilde and Marlene Dietrich once 5. Musée de l’Orangerie, Jardin des Tuileries did. 6. Jeu de Paume, 1, Place de la Concorde 7. Place de la Concorde Enjoy some window-shopping on your way to 8. Hôtel de Crillon, 10, Place de la Concorde the 18. Place de la Madeleine, where you’ll 9. W. H. Smith, 248, rue de Rivoli find a food mecca. Head to your right and 10. Pierre Hermé, 4, rue Cambon you’ll come to the first of two separate 11. Le Meurice, 228, rue de Rivoli, 01 44 58 10 10 buildings for 19. Fauchon (24-26, Place de la 12. Angelina, 226, rue de Rivoli, 01 42 60 88 50 Madeleine). The first shop has an extensive 13. Place Vendôme seafood section, as well as a large offering of 14. Ritz, 15, Place Vendôme cheese and charcuterie, macarons, and a 15. Harry’s New York Bar, 5, rue Daunou bakery, where you can either eat your 16. Palais Garnier, 1, Place de l’Opéra delicacies or get them to go. The shop kitty- 17. Café de la Paix, 12, boulevard des Capucines, corner has a full floor of sweets and savory 01 40 07 36 36 items to pack in your suitcase as gifts for 18. Place de la Madeleine friends or yourself. There’s also a café 19. Fauchon, 24-26, Place de la Madeleine upstairs for dining, and a full floor dedicated 20. Hédiard, 21, Place de la Madeleine to wine below. 21. Eglise de la Madeleine

Continuing your loop, you’ll find 20. Hédiard (21, Place de la Madeleine) opposite Fauchon. Enjoy the selection of jams, teas, salts, fresh produce, desserts and wine. Buy something for a future picnic, or if you can’t wait, eat in the restaurant upstairs, which features the best of Hédiard’s products.

End your tour in the center of the plaza at the 21. Eglise de la Madeleine. In 1806 Napoleon gave instructions to build a “Temple of Glory” for his army. After his fall, there were delays that prevented the church from opening until 1842. Check the schedules to try and catch a concert in the traditional basilica.

Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

1. Carrefour de L’Odeon – starting point 2. 5 Carrefour de L’Odeon – Le Comptoir du Relais 2b. 4-6-8 Cour de Commerce – Un Dimanche à Paris 3. 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie – Le Procope 4. 41 rue St. Andre des Arts – Allard

5. St. Severin Church 6. St. Julien le Pauvre 7. 56 rue Galande – Aux Trois Mailletz 8. 50 & 52 rue Galande – Le Chat Huant 9. 14 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – the Tea Caddy

10. 4 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – Hotel Esmeralda 11. 37 rue de la Bucherie – Shakespeare and Co. 12. 21 Quai Montebello – Café Panis 13. Eglise Notre Dame 14. Square de Ile de France - Memorial des Martyrs

15. 55 Quai de Bourbon – Brasserie de l’Île St. Louis 16. 31 rue St. Louis-en-L’ile – Berthillon Ice Cream

This tour takes between 2 and 4 hours vards we now see on the right bank. depending on how long you linger. Note the 4. Bistro Allard at 41 St. André-des- Arts (01 43 26 48 23) which is a classic bistro Begin at the 1. Carrefour de l’Odéon near and worth remembering for dinner. They are fa- Blvd St. Germain. Near the metro stop Odeon. No- mous for their whole duck covered in olives. It’s tice the statue of Georges Danton, an early leading a very friendly place though a bit touristy. Con- figure in the French Revolution. tinue along St. André until you reach Blvd Saint- Michel and cross over, zigzagging a bit as you You might want to start with lunch at 2. Le enter the 5th Arrondissement and continue on Comptoir du Relais, at 5 Carrefour de rue St. Séverin all the way through to rue St. l’Odeon (01 44 27 07 97) which is a café by day Jacques. where no reservations are required for lunch, and a fancier bistro by night, when reservations are a The 5. Church St. Séverin is worth noting for it must. Head north towards the Seine crossing the is a very old gothic example and its organ is quite Blvd. St. Germain but do not go up rue de l'An- famous — duck in for a look. cienne Comédie. Continue a bit further along The church began construction in the 11th century, Blvd. St. Germain to the right, heading east, and but most of what you’ll see dates from the 15th cen- take a left very quickly on Cour du Commerce . tury. Cross over rue St. Jacques and pick up the This is a lovely little back way stroll. angled rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre to see what is often thought of as the oldest church in Paris, 2b. Un Dimanche à Paris, 4-6-8 Cour de dating back to the 12th century. 6. Église St. Commerce, which you'll notice on your right is a Julien-le-Pauvre. Here they frequently have new chocolate store, actually it's more a choco- music performances such as Vivaldi’s Four Sea- late experience. Not only do they sell chocolates, sons or the Ave Maria, which we highly recom- pastries and wonderful edible gifts, they have a mend. Look for the schedules posted around chocolate lounge with chocolate inspired cocktails town and near the church itself. They also have and a chocolate focused restaurant, no joke! This these performances at Sainte-Chapelle, Église chocolate wonderland exists thanks to the imagi- St. Germain and other notable churches. nation of Pierre Cluizel, whose family has been making chocolate since 1948. Across the street, if you are here at night, there is a funky little café called 7. Aux Trois Mail- Notice the historic 3. Restaurant Le Pro- letz 56 rue Galande at the corner of rue St. cope 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie on your left Julien-le-Pauvre and Galande (01 43 54 00 79) where Benjamin Franklin dined. (We don’t recom- complete with a bad Edith Piaf imitator singing in mend the restaurant, as it is too touristy for our the back. The basement has a café and more tastes.) There is also a cute toy store further jazz. If you are in the mood for kitsch, have a down on the left. This passageway will lead you couple of glasses here. to rue St. André-des-Arts — turn right here. This is a fun day or evening stroll. There are some Also on rue Galande, there is a special little cute shops along St. André-des-Arts but nothing Japanese store called 8. Le Chat Huant, 50 terribly chic or original. The area is enchanting as & 52 rue Galande (01 46 33 67 56). We have this is actually what Paris looked like before the found some charming tea cups in there and other architect Haussmann tore down these small goodies from Asia that are finely crafted. Heading neighborhoods in order to make the wide boule-

back up rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre towards the Seine After your literary exposure, you’ll be ready for there is a darling tea salon called 9. the Tea spirituality! Go across on the pedestrian bridge Caddy that has been at number 14 rue St Julien- (on the weekends this bridge turns into a roller- le-Pauvre since 1928. blading and skateboarding stage) to 13. Notre Dame. Stand in line to see this monumental At 4 rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre you’ll find the 10. Gothic beauty even if you have seen it before — Hôtel Esmeralda immortalized in the children’s we try to go in each time we are in Paris. It is sim- book Linnea in Monet’s Garden (01 43 54 19 20). ply amazing that this church is nearly 850 years Take a quick look inside — it’s about as old Paris old. If you haven’t done it, circle around to the bohemian chic as you can get as well as a real side and stand in line to climb to the top, there’s bargain. We understand that apartment 3 is par- a great view from the roof. ticularly charming. Then walk around to the back of Notre-Dame on Continue along towards the Seine to the Quai de the Seine side through the lovely gardens and Montebello — turn left on rue de la Bûcherie. Here take a much needed rest in the back garden, you’ll find our favorite bookshop in Paris and one of which is often very quiet even when Notre-Dame the most unusual bookshops in the world, called is swamped. The back of Notre-Dame is just as 11. Shakespeare and Co. at 37 rue de la impressive as the façade with its famed flying but- Bûcherie (01 43 25 40 93). There are a number of tresses and gargoyles. Further behind Notre books written about it but our favorite is Time Was Dame is a serene and moving monument that is a Soft There by Jeremy Mercer. George Whitman, an bit hard to find. It’s at the very tip of Île de la Cité American now in his 90s, began the bookshop in and is called the 14. Mémorial des Martyrs 1951 and everybody — and we mean everybody de la Déportation. This is a memorial to the — has done readings here. They still have poetry 200,000 Jewish people and others who were de- and other readings on Monday nights at 7pm. ported from France during the German occupation Check the website for details. Take a long look of the 1940’s and sent off to Nazi concentration around this place and you’ll find many surprises. camps. George has let struggling writers stay here over the years and you’ll see evidence — note the small Pick up your mood by crossing over the bridge to beds placed here and there. The place is open until Île Saint-Louis and try the 15. Brasserie de 11pm and you’ll undoubtedly meet some interesting l'Île St. Louis at 55 Quai de Bourbon (01 43 54 folks here. George’s daughter now runs the shop 02 59). This is a perfect stop for a pint of frosty cold but his motto remains on the wall on the 2nd floor beer and some French fries or choucroute (the fa- — “Be not inhospitable to strangers lest they be mous Alsatian dish of potatoes, wieners and sauer- angels in disguise.” This place harkens back to a kraut). A drink on the terrace in fine weather is just lost time that somehow manages to live on strongly what the doctor ordered. Or, stroll further down the here in this tiny shop across from Notre Dame. rue St. Louis-en l’Île and sample some of the famous 16. Berthillon Ice Cream at 31 rue St. If you need a quick coffee, stop in at 12. Café -Louis-en-l’Île (01 43 54 31 61.) Panis, 21 Quai de Montebello (01 43 54 19 71) where all the Shakespeare & Co staff go for drinks Continue down the rue St. Louis-en-l’Île until the or tea. Café Panis is just outside the bookshop to end and cross over to the right bank onto Blvd your right, about half a block down the street past Henri IV and continue on into the Marais or go the park.

back to your hotel or apartment for a much de- served rest, you’ll be near Metro Sully-Morland.

Points of Interest Addresses 1. Carrefour de L’Odeon – starting point. 2. 5 Carrefour de L’Odeon – Le Comptoir du Relais 2b. 4-6-8 Cour de Commerce – Un Dimanche à Paris 1. 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie – Le Procope 2. 41 rue St. Andre des Arts – Allard 3. St. Severin Church 4. St. Julien le Pauvre 5. 56 rue Galande – Aux Trois Mailletz 6. 50 & 52 rue Galande – Le Chat Huant 7. 14 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – the Tea Caddy 8. 4 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – Hotel Esmeralda 9. 37 rue de la Bucherie – Shakespeare and Co. 10. 21 Quai Montebello – Café Panis 11. Eglise Notre Dame 12. Square de Ile de France - Memorial des Martyrs 13. 55 Quai de Bourbon – Brasserie de l’Île St. Louis 14. 31 rue St. Louis-en-L’ile – Berthillon Ice Cream

1. Begin on rue Palatine in the 6th at Saint Sulpice 2. 8 place St. Sulpice – Café de la Mairie 3. 72 rue Bonaparte – Pierre Hermé

4. 16 rue d’Assas – Jean-Charles Rochoux 5. Luxembourg Gardens

6. 19 rue Vaugirard – Musee du Luxembourg* 7. 76 rue de Seine – Gerard Mulot

* Sadly this Museum is closed until further notice

Pastry and Chocolate Tour cont’d

8. 108 Blvd. Saint Germain – Patrick Roger

9. 34 Blvd. Saint Germain – Diptyque

Go back to rue de Vaugirard, taking some time This stroll is over two kilometers, because now to stroll through 5. the Luxembourg you’ve got to walk off the calories, ladies! Gardens. The Luxembourg Gardens center Biking the tour is another option. around the Marie de Medici’s palace constructed in the early 1600’s. Marie, widow of Henry the IV, NOTE: Shops might be closed on Sundays. also commissioned the gardens. The Palace is used today by the Senate of France. Find the Start in the 6th Arrondissement at 1. St.- Medici fountain built in 1630 to the rear and east Sulpice, on rue Palatine, and enjoy the beautiful of the palace, which is a charming place to relax redone fountains. Stop inside the church if you on a sunny day. 6. the Musée du Luxem- never have and view the Delacroix painting in the bourg, a delightful small museum that often has small alcove to the right as you walk in. This excellent shows. Stop in and experience some church figured heavily in The Da Vinci Code. culture. *

If you need some caffeine, 2. Café de la Exiting the museum, continue along Vaugirard Mairie (just to the right of the church as you exit toward rue de Tournon. Stop and admire the Pal- onto the square) is a good stop and a true ais du Luxembourg (Le Sénat), which was for- neighborhood café. merly Marie de Médicis’s palace and is now home to the French Senate. Turn left here, onto rue de Walk on rue St.-Sulpice toward rue Bonaparte Tournon. Walk along this street until it becomes and take a right, looking out for 3. Pierre rue de Seine. Here you’ll find 7. Gérard Mulot, Hermé, at 72, rue Bonaparte (01 43 54 47 77). at 76, rue de Seine (corner of rue Lobineau). We He is the absolute king of macaroons in Paris. love everything at Mulot, so sample whatever French macaroons, not the coconut ones we catches your eye. Maybe you are ready for a bit know in the U.S. Do sample the rose macaroons, of a savory taste. Their small quiches are excel- which are the Girls’ Guide favorites, but each and lent, and they will warm them up for you. every flavor is excellent. These make a marvel- ous gift — as long as you are giving them out Follow rue de Seine north toward boulevard St.- soon as they don’t keep long. All of Pierre’s Germain, where you’ll turn right. Walk all the way pastries are worth the calories, as he is truly a to number 108, the chocolate master 8. Pat- master. rick Roger’s delightful store. We love the fan- tastic window displays and his creative concoc- Turn back toward rue St.-Sulpice and follow rue tions using spices from all around the world. Plus, Bonaparte until you reach rue de Vaugirard at the the plain chocolate bars are simply superb. We Luxembourg Gardens. Turn right, walk several love his aqua-green packaging, and all in all we blocks and turn right on rue d’Assas. Walk to just LOVE Patrick Roger. Pick up a gift here number 16 and enter 4. Jean-Charles Ro- unless you are already loaded down. choux’s chocolate shop (01 42 84 29 45). He makes incredibly artistic busts of famous French For a peaceful end to a decadent day, we suggest figures such as Molière, as well as many other a stop into 9. Diptyque, at 34, boulevard St.- more traditional chocolates. Germain (01 43 26 77 44), to pick up a gift for yourself or a friend. Their candles and perfumes Save yourself some room, as we have several are legendary. You simply cannot go wrong here. more stops to go.

Note this last stop is a ways (over half a kilome- ter) from Patrick Roger, so if it is raining or you

are wiped out you can skip it. But you will regret not having a couple of these candles packed in your bag when you travel home.

* Museum to reopen in fall 2011 .

Points of Interest Addresses

1. Begin at St.‐Sulpice on rue Palatine in the 6th

2. Café de la Mairie – 8 place St. Sulpice

3. Pierre Hermé – 72 rue Bonaparte

4. Jean‐Charles Rochoux – 16 rue d’Assas

5. Luxembourg Gardens

6. Musée du Luxembourg* – 19 rue Vaugirard

7. Gérard Mulot – 76 rue de Seine

8. Patrick Roger – 108 Blvd. Saint Germain

9. Diptyque – 34 Blvd. Saint Germain

* Sadly this Museum is closed until further notice