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'56-'62 Corvette Seat Track Repair and Restoration Rich Mozzetta

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'56-'62 Corvette Seat Track Repair and Restoration Rich Mozzetta ‘56-‘62 Corvette Seat Track Repair and Restoration Rich Mozzetta (PDF Layout by Dave Zuberer) http://home.comcast.net/~richmz/site/?/page/56-62_Corvette_Seat_Track_Repair_and_Restoration/ The C1 Corvette seat tracks can get dirty and rusty inside and become quite difficult to move. I have found a way to open them up, somewhat easily, to clean and remove dirt and rust. If they are severely stuck, let them soak a few days in a parts cleaning cabinet to loosen the heavy deposits. Here are some pictures and a description to show how to disassemble the tracks. 1- The trick is to get the roller assembly out the rear section first. Position the track so that the top housing is facing up in a vice. Get the upper section in a position with the roller as shown under the mounting hole. This will allow you to use the hole as a pry point. Top 2- Using a screwdriver, start to pry to roller outward. Roller “cage”” Continue to pry Screw driver in on back of roller roller cage to pry cage roller assembly out Roller “guide bearings” 3- Now that you have the rear roller assembly out, go to the front end of the track. Tap the lower housing to get the track in position as shown. You may have to use a light hammer to help get it in position. This time use a long needle-nose plier to grab the roller assembly. You may need the screwdriver to help when the roller is near the mounting hole too. By wiggling the housing around the assembly will come out. Watch out for the ball bearings dropping on the floor and rolling into the corner of your shop! If they fall out you can reinstall carefully by squeezing the little tab keepers. Roller “guide bearings” Lower track end over roller assembly Grab roller assembly with needle-nose pliers 4- Clean everything up with either a wire brush or have them bead-blasted. You can re-plate them or just use a good quality silver paint to keep from rusting. If the rollers and keepers are bad, most suppliers have them. 5- Reassembly is basically the reverse operation. I found it easier to start with the rear first, assembling the roller then tapping with a drift to get it in a few inches. 6- Now go to the front and repeat the process to get the roller assembly in. You'll have to get the track in position as shown to allow you to get the assembly started. After the assembly is in, you'll have to tap the rollers on both ends to get them aligned properly. This is basically trial and error. Done! Note: The outer tracks with adjusters are basically the same process. The only difference is that you will have to bend the stop tab out on the side. This can be re-bent after assembly. You'll also have to make up a keeper to hold the adjust knob away from the latch slots. Outer Track The outer tracks with adjusters are basically the same process. The only difference is that you will have to bend the stop tab out or in on the side. I found it easier to move it inwards. This can be re-bent after assembly. You'll also have to make up a keeper to hold the adjust knob away from the latch slots, or just remove the spring as I did. One note of interest, it is actually easier to rebuild the outers because the notch in the upper housing for the track stop allows you to get the front saddle out easier....you'll see why later. 1- It is recommended you wear safety glasses.......The first thing I did was remove the spring for the adjust lever. I used locking pliers to hold the ends of the spring, and used a long pry bar to lift the edge of the spring off the notch, they simply pull it away to release it from the notch. Pry bar to lift spring from notch 2- Now place the lower track housing in a vice just below the stop tab. I used a flat tipped drift and knocked the tab at both ends until it just clears the upper track housing lip. You don't need to go too far. This photo is after I bent the tab with the lower track facing up. I tried using a pry bar first but went with the drift method instead. The battle scars were from the pry bar, not the drift. 3- Again, as for the inners, the trick is to get the roller assembly out of the rear section first. Position the track so that the top housing is facing up in a vice. Get the upper section in a position with the roller as shown under the mounting hole. This will allow you to use the hole as a pry point. I also found it necessary to position the front roller more rearward as for the inners, by using a drift to push the front roller rearward for clearance from the mount plate rivets. Front roller clearance. Tap the roller rearward..... Mount- plate rivet Rear roller coming out.... Screw driver in roller cage to pry roller assembly out Continue to pry on back of roller cage 4- Once the rear roller assembly is out, position the front roller so it finds the long rectangular notch in the upper track housing near the opening for the stop tab. Carefully remove one ball from the saddle, or watch out as it may fall out. This will allow you to move the front roller assembly out easier. 5- As for the inner tracks, clean everything up for reassembly. Hopefully all of the pieces will be restorable. If not, the rollers and saddles are the same for the inners and you'll have to get new replacements. I was able to clean these. One roller was a bit rough so I simply used a file to smooth out the circumference where it looked bad. 6- Reassembly is the same as for the inners, first the rear, and then the front. After the rollers are in, use a pry bar to bring the stop tab back out to its original position. Install the spring.....using safety glasses, awl and locking pliers. A light tap with a hammer may help get the spring tab over the notch in the keeper. Pry the stop tab back out so it limits the travel of the track. Release-handle spring in proper position 7- After you're done, using a spray lubricant, coat the rollers, saddle bearings, and any moving parts. I don't like grease because it has a tendency to attract and hold dirt and debris more than the light lubricants. As a final step, check to make sure your track pairs travel over the proper distance before installation. Bring the outer track to both adjuster endpoints and ensure that the inner track covers the same distance. If the inner isn't the same, you may have to adjust the roller assemblies using the drift method. Tracks forward Tracks rearward Hope it helps...........
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