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Gangga Resort, Manado, Indonesia + [Other Articles] Undercurrent The Private, Exclusive Guide for Serious Divers January 2011 Vol. 26, No. 1 Gangga Resort, Manado, Indonesia reefs, muck and luxury living Dear Fellow Diver: IN THIS ISSUE: When the alarm clock went off at 4:30 a.m., I thought, Gangga Resort . .1 “The diving better be tremendous.” I’d already flown 15 hours from JFK to Hong Kong, where I overnighted before a Manado, Indonesia map . .2 four-hour flight to Bali, then overnighted again. Now, in All Those Weird Critters. .3 two hours I was to board a 6:30 a.m. flight to Makassar, Indonesia, with a five-hour layover in a stifling termi- Gangga Island Resort nal, then fly another 90 minutes to Manado, where it would Star Chart. .4 require an hour ride to the dock, where, at last we were Where Travel Insurance to be greeted and taken for the last 30-minute boat ride Counts . .5 to Gangga Island Resort. (Yes, there are a lot shorter ways to fly here, but our itinerary wasn’t one of those.) Caribbean Explorer II: Saba/St.Kitts . .6 Well, my buddy and I made it to the dock, but were greeted by no one. As dusk approached, a boat finally Caribbean Explorer II Saba appeared in the distance and we finished the last leg & St. Kitts Star Chart . .7 of our journey in the rain. As you might imagine, I was Saba & St. Kitts map . .8 interested in an adult bever- Why No Statia? . .9 age and bed, but as our gear At Last, Justice in Belize . 10 was hauled to Divemasters in American the bungalow, Waters . 12 we were offered sandwiches and Barracuda Attacks . 14 fresh coconut A Cause of Pollution . 15 water. Then, off to the The 2010 Dive Equipment dive shop where Show . 17 Hanne Davi, the Danish www.undercurrent.org resort manager, reviewed our Editorial Office: Ben Davison, Publisher and c-cards and log Editor books (husband 3020 Bridgeway, Suite 102 Gaspare runs Sausalito, CA 94965 the Bali opera- [email protected] Gangga Cottage tion), collected our release forms and explained many dive details and the dive China operation. Two-tank dives departed at 8:30 a.m., returning by 12:30 p.m. for lunch. All day three tank dives left at 8:00 a.m., return at 5:00 p.m. A 3:00 p.m. afternoon dive was available. She Thailand Vietnam would try to accommodate requests for changes in our group, departure times or Philippines destinations. Seemed like good service to us. Gangga Island Resort and Spa lies Singapore Manado, Indonesia a few miles off North Sulawesi, smack Indonesia between the muck diving of Lembeh Strait and the reef diving of Bunaken National Marine Park, making it ideal for those who want to dive both areas from luxuri- ous land-based accommodations. Fifteen two-unit bungalows with a capacity of two adults and two children in each unit, are scattered along a winding stone path leading to the dining hall and lounge. We could enjoy the exceptional sea view from our porch lounges in privacy from residents bunked on the other side of a common wall. If I wanted to snooze beneath a palm tree on the beach, I had a per- sonal lounge with foam pads. At the price of a 10-minute walk from the dive shop, being billeted in the next to last building meant few passersby and no kitchen noise. Built from dark native woods, the bungalows were light and airy, with large curtained windows, high ceilings with overhead fans, and fresh flowers. Our com- fortable king-sized bed had mosquito netting, which proved unnecessary as we never met a single mozzy. The A/C kept us cool in August; some guests didn’t use it. The large bathroom sported a long counter area, bath products and fluffy towels. Soft drinks and beer were in the mini fridge and a five-gallon jug of filtered water was filled daily. Regardless, a few guests had minor bouts of Suharto’s Revenge. The small TV offered Indonesian soap operas, HBO, and ESPN via satellite. A huge open shower was next to a large window so we could wave at folks on the beach while washing off the salt. Being European, they didn’t seem to mind. After a thorough boat briefing on our first day, which included detailed reef sketches on a white board, I donned my alu- minum 80, backrolled and dropped down at Aer Benua. A swift current zipped my buddy and me along a wall dusty with sediment from recent rains. All of sudden the current stopped. Then it pushed me down a few feet to where it picked up again and we were off to the races. At 1500 psi, I ascended with my buddy and others to the coral garden at 20 feet, but now fought the current as it ran The Dive Boat 2 in the opposite direction. I managed to hang on the reef long enough to peer at a wire goby, then winged back to the boat, where I handed up my fins and BCD, and climbed up the short ladder and reported my depth and time. (We were asked not to exceed 130 feet, but there was no practical reason to dive that deep; all the cool stuff was shallower.) The rides to sites in their 45-foot partially covered boat ranged from 20 to 45 minutes. We glided on flat seas past emerald islands against a background of volcanic cones. Underwater, the guides, once satisfied with our skills, were never overbearing. They pointed out critters with stainless steel rods, without hassling the sea life. Photographers could stop and shoot without interference. Though we never had more than eight divers onboard, the Indonesian dive staff cre- ated two groups presumably separated by skill level, but it usually was one group of Italians and a second group of everybody else. The two groups frequently sur- faced far apart, but the boat crews were always watchful. One day we were joined by a Mexican fellow who flailed around frantically in the current trying to deal with 20 pounds of lead, until he ran low of air and had to surface. We stayed down. On days when it was just the two of us and the Italians, we had our own private DM. My partner speaks rudimentary Italian and the surface intervals were friendly times, especially when local ladies came onboard to hawk shell jewelry and T-shirts. Sanchiko Point in Bunaken was home to tens of thousands of red-toothed trig- ger fish and a large school of pyramid butterflies. A small group of batfish beckoned me deeper, where a few jacks flitted by and a Teira batfish fled to a coral head. At Fukui Point I drifted easily among thousands of damsels, and more pyramid butterflies. Lettuce and staghorn corals were dotted with anemones housing Clark’s and skunk anemone fish. Hawksbill turtles settled down for photos or swam along slowly with us. Photographers were in the minority. Rinse tanks were bever- age coolers that couldn’t accommodate the larger rigs, and any adjustments had to be made on the benches that lined either side of the boat. At Lekuan II, I dropped alone to 95 feet and swam along a sheer wall with All Those Weird Critters Paul Humann and Ned DeLoach have done it again, releasing a definitive identification guide to 1600 extraordinary reef creatures of the Tropical Pacific. There is no reason for me to gang a list of superlatives to describe the book. Anyone who has ever thumbed through one of their previous eight guides knows just how beautiful and informative they are. With this 500+ page softbound guide, you get upwards of 2000 exceptional photos of shrimp and crabs and stars and worms and lobsters and nudibranchs and slugs and squid and bivalves . well, all those invertebrates that move along the reefs of this region without finning, so it seems. There are several photos of some creatures to help you identify them during different life stages, and about ten percent of the book is descriptive copy so you can tie down your identification. While anyone headed to the Tropical Pacific MUST have a copy of this book, even if you have no plans to go, just to thumb through the pages, gawk at the complexity and uniqueness of these animals, and read a thumbnail sketch will give any serious diver vicarious thrills for endless hours. Tropical Pacific Reef Creature Identification lists for $48 and the best way to buy it is to go directly to Paul and Ned and New World Publications at www.fishid.com/nwp/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=47 You’ll also find Tropical Pacific Reef Fish Identification and their other books on the website. 3 large stands of black and orange Gangga Island Resort coral trees, reveling in 82°F water and 100-foot vis. A white-tip reef Diving (Experienced) ★★★★★ shark passed in the opposite direction and a hawksbill in a hole watched me Diving (Beginner who can handle the current) ★★★★ kick by. Nirvana, indeed. Sahaung was ★★★ Crinoid Central, where the feathery Snorkeling (Not land based) and colorful critters were arrayed everywhere: green with yellow, magenta Photography ★★★★ and black, red with yellow, multiple Accommodations ★★★★★ shades of blue. Baby white tips clus- tered under a dead table coral while a ★★★★★ Service and Attitude bumphead parrot grazed alone. Food ★★★★ On the second day I switched to Money’s Worth ★★★★★ an aluminum 100 and 32% Nitrox. There ★ ★★★★★ were also 62s available, and plenty of = poor = excellent spares stowed below the deck so you Worldwide scale could dive a 100 on the first deep dive, and switch to an 80 for a shal- lower second plunge.
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