Negril & West Coast

NEGRIL & WEST COAST © LonelyPlanetPublications a better 40yearsago. ideaofwhatNegrilwaslike sion ofyourwallet.The sunset’sjustasmagnificentfromthecliffs, andyou’llprobablyget much easiertomixwithlocalswithouttheperpetualsenseofjustbeingseenasanexten- hotelssmaller, more minglewithintimate characterful jerkshacksand lively bars,andit’s dealer oranaspiringtour-guide-cum-escort. the localhustle–you’re very towatchthesunsetincloyingcompanyofaganja likely phalanxofbeachsideresorts.man ManleyBlvdfortheintervening Andwithtourismcomes Negril hasexplodedasatouristvenue, andtodaythebeachcanbarely beseenfromNor- for-tourist schmaltzthatsooften marsthehotspotsofMontego BayandOchoRios. At thereggae night,rusticbeachside musicclubskeep beatgoingwithoutthewatered-down- most jaded.Andtheeasilyaccessiblecoralreefs offer someofthebestdivinginCaribbean. serene waters intowhichthesunmeltsevery evening inariotofcolorthatwilltransfix even the ago. where anythinggoes. Tosomeextent anythingstillgoeshere, buttheinnocenceleftlong In the1970s,Negrillured hippieswithitsoffbeatbeach-life toacountercultural Shangri-la West & Coast Negril 216 The less-developed WestEndliesonthecliffs slightlytothesouthofLongBeach.Here Yet have theseundeniableattractions Inthelastthree donejustthat–attract. decades, To besure, bythe thegorgeous 11km-longswathofsandthatisLongBeachstillkissed

HIGHLIGHTS RA 27S M AREA: 3217SQKM

atmospheric caves ( p244 ) country atoneofJamaica’s mostscenicand Roaring River Park (p224) through verdant wetlandsfilledwithbirdlife Great Morass island (p227) off Negrilforsomeofthebestdivingon the Scuba Diving ( p224) farianism atthistranquilretreat andgarden for somemeditationandlearnaboutRasta- Garden Abba Jahnehoy’s never failtolive uptotheirhype( p238 ) 11km stretch ofbeach,whosefierysunsets Long Bay Hang loose or party hearty onthis hearty Hang looseorparty Plumb thegrottoesandreefs Walk amongtoweringpalms Disappear intothe Take tothehills NEGRIL DECAVERAGE HIGHTEMPERATURE: 28°C Scuba Diving Long Bay Abba Jahnehoy'sGarden Great Morass Roaring River Park NEGRIL & WEST COAST 217 a humorous novel by a humorous novel Banana Shout, Negril’s innocence is long gone. The red- is long gone. Negril’s innocence This let-it-all-hang-out tradition still over- In spite of Negril’s perhaps predictable predictable Negril’s perhaps of In spite Once upon a time – in the mid-1970s, to be to be – in the mid-1970s, a time Once upon flows during the March to April spring break to April spring break flows during the March kids swarm for wet T-shirt when US college fishing village. Electricity and telephones Electricity and telephones fishing village. soon The sleepy village beachfront came later. became a popular holiday spot for Jamaicans. the same hippies and backpackers time, About They roomed began to appear. from abroad par- with local families or slept on the beach, and ganja and magic mushrooms, took of reputation. Negril its laid-back gave generally – Negril Beach resort major In 1977 the first II) – opened Hedonism renamed (later Village affluent crowd seeking to a relatively its doors Tales vacation. Club Med–style an uninhibited toga parties and midnight nude Hedonism’s of Negril to fame. volleyball games helped launch a By the mid-1980s Negril was in the throes of full-scale tourism boom that continues today. re- are tourism in Negril (The early days of galed in concerning the Conklin Mark local hotelier who an American draft dodger escapades of to Negril.) moves vided into two distinct areas with dissimi- areas vided into two distinct Long Bay lar personalities. and its extended is brash and touristy while white-sand beach boutique hotels the West End, with its small a suggests credentials, and counterculture who now carries a laptop former flower child card. credit and platinum sensual to a Eden evolution from a remote, Jamaica’s the place remains big-money resort, Let best destination for Dionysian revelry. your hair down, sample the local pleasures around you. happen and let Jamaica HISTORY Only in 1959 was a road cut to Negril, launch- what was then a tiny ing the development of exact – Negril was still an off-the-beaten-track Negril was exact – nirvana beach-loving to the budget-minded, you setting where a ‘far-out’ crowd. It was in- hallucinogenic sunsets of over could drool nothing to do with the ‘magic’ that had tensity up in omelettes that still show mushrooms and teas. been joined by neatly eyed hippies have on rented who whiz about groomed youths with a local lass or often motor scooters, ) clinging p284 ‘Rent-a-Rasta’dreadlocked ( is roughly di- tightly behind. Today the area NEGRIL •• History

Tourism is Negril’s only industry. But de-

The Spanish called Negril’s bay and adja- bay and Negril’s Spanish called The spite phenomenal growth in recent decades, in recent phenomenal growth spite else as anywhere Negril can be as laid-back an easygoing rapport and there’s in Jamaica and locals. between visitors of light blues and greens. Coral reefs lie just lie just Coral reefs light blues and greens. of and you’ll want your camera close offshore, peach-colored the consistently by to record applause than the live more sunsets that get reggae concerts. and its scintillating 11km-long beach sliding sliding and its scintillating 11km-long beach a palette reflecting into calm waters gently

Negril, 81km west of Montego Bay, Montego the vor- is Negril, 81km west of fun-in-the-sun Jamaica’s around which tex whirls. You’ll soon find your- vacation life with Negril’s insouciance self falling in love NEGRIL pop 4400 in Montego Bay,in Montego 81km from Negril. From minivan for a private you can arrange there or taxi, public transportation or take in the taxi. route a minibus or form of Nearly all international air passengers fly fly air passengers Nearly all international Airport International into Donald Sangster GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING THERE & AWAY CLIMATE CLIMATE rainfall and driest lowest Negril has Jamaica’s strongly 350 days a sun shines The climate. is always the pos- but there year on average showers. afternoon brief sibility of late 1970s, when the first resorts opened, that resorts 1970s, when the first late Jamaica’s its claim as Negril began to stake party destination. coolest slowly began to attract vacationers – as well vacationers slowly began to attract the hippies – but it wasn’t until of as a coterie catch here (hence the name). When a road was (hence the name). When here catch to Negril in 1959, the area finally constructed 19th-century whalers who butchered their their who butchered 19th-century whalers of assembly and departure for the British for the British assembly departure and of expedition to storm armada’s ill-fated naval New Orleans. Bloody Bay was also used by to provide safe anchorage during plunder- anchorage safe to provide 1812 between the War of ing forays. During Britain the US Bloody Bay and the point was to proliferate in the local rivers. During the in the local rivers. to proliferate bays Negril’s two favored pirates colonial era cent headland Puntacent headland Point), Negrilla (Dark eels that used to the black conger referring HISTORY HISTORY lonelyplanet.com NEGRIL & WEST COAST 218 NEGRIL &WESTCOAST Shark's Reef Aweemaway 18°25'N ERL&WS OS NEGRIL &WESTCOAST The Throne Negril Lighthouse Sands ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ Club Reef Deep Plane Negril South Point Bay Map(p225) See Negril–Long Map (pp222–3) See Negril–WestEnd C ARIBENS C ARIBENS Village Negril Mt Airy ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ Long Bay Bloody 18°15'N Bay Ὀ A1 Negril Environmental Centre Visitor Protection Area A2 Hall Plantation Orange Aerodrome Morass Game Negril Great Marine Hill Morass Negril Sanctuary Great Park Negril Rhodes Orange Half Moon Bay Marine Fish River Royal Palm Negril Park Beach Reserve Sheffield

Protection Area

Environmental

Retirement

Brighton n g Green Island

Homers e

Negril

Cove H

Harbour

l s

r e R e v i Little Hills Negril Island Green Bay Davis Cove March Town Lost Beach 78°15'W Cousins Cove Southwest Retreat Point Lance's Bay Davis Cove Bridge Delve St John's Point A1 Pedro Point Little London New Broughton Sir Alexander Bustamante Hope Wharf Orange Museum Cove Dias

Blenheim

M Kingsvale

o a g r n s

Grange

lonelyplanet.com

R Westmoreland LUCEA Hill

e r Robins Hanover Point

B9 Dolphin Head Cabarita River Cabarita Harbour (545m) Lucea processing Frome Factory 78°15'W Sugar- NEGRIL & WEST COAST 219 78°05'W 18°15'N Negril Village consists of some shopping some shopping consists of Negril Village Long Bay is paralleled by Norman Manley Long Bay Norman Manley is paralleled by Nonetheless, the resort has developed an the resort Nonetheless, Long Bay is anchored to the north by to the north by Long Bay is anchored the rises south of A rocky limestone plateau Long Bay and its blindingly white beach Long Bay beach and its blindingly white ORIENTATION ORIENTATION South Negril River and extends southward for and extends South Negril River as the is known The area several kilometers. West End or ‘the Rock.’ The coral clifftop is good for swimming in with coves indented a dra- providing waters, crystal-clear azure and small hotels matic setting for dozens of from the beach. The road is lined with hotels, The road is lined with hotels, from the beach. for almost its en- and food shacks restaurants length, except for a 1km section toward its tire northern end that has been set aside as Long nude bathing. Bay popular for Beach Park, Beyond Bloody is a deeply scalloped cove, Bay, Negril’s rimmed by a beautiful beach. here located are resorts upscale all-inclusive Long Bay. or on the north end of banks and other com- plazas and a handful of houses and shacks plus a few mercial ventures, hills known as dispersed among the forested Red Ground. Negril is divided in two by the South Negril Negril is divided in two with Long Bay to the north and West River, is Negril Village, End to the south. The apex and the river south of lies immediately which which from on a small roundabout is centered Blvd leads north, West End Norman Manley Rd goesRd leads west, and Sheffield east and to Savanna-la-Mar, becomes the A2, leading 30km away. north from the by palms stretches fringed concessions Water-sports South Negril River. By night this sectionline the beach. comes to bars. disco from reggae with the blast of life Blvd, a two-lane highway about 100m inland contests, drinking competitions and general and general drinking competitions contests, party time. environmentally and conscious spirit active result- expat residents, of under the guidance Park Negril Marine the of ing in the creation Environmentalwithin the Negril Protection The park encompasses the shoreline, Area. reefs, and coral waters offshore mangroves, zones. and is divided into eight recreational Commerce adopted In 2001 the Chamber of standardan environmental for hotels ‘green’ include a new projects Recent to. to adhere Jamaica. in – a rarity center recycling the low rocky headland of Rutland Point. Rutland Point. the low rocky headland of A2 (2km); (25km) 4 km 18°25'N (45km) (478m) To Hopewell Old Pen A1 Montego Bay Galloway Point To Black Bluefields Whithorn Montego Bay Crab Pond River (32km) Blue Hole B8 Glen Islay Bay

78°05'W River Bluefields Petersfield Bay Sandy

Roaring Pondside Tryall Estate Flint 0 0 2 miles River Park Mayfield Falls & Mineral Springs Park Paradise Bluff Point Ferris Cross Amity Cross Cross NEGRIL •• Orientation A2 (551m) Friendship Birchs Hill Banbury Cove Moskito Pennycooke Cascade MAR (268m) B9 Kenilworth German Hill SAVANNA-LA- lonelyplanet.com NEGRIL & WEST COAST international calls. café atmosphere; youcanpluginyour laptopandmake anamiable 0816; WestEndRd;per hrUS$4)Offering tech equipment, this cafe also serves delicious tech equipment,thiscafe alsoserves ice cream. West EndRd;per20minUS$1.50; West End Rd) Well stocked withinternational West EndRd)Wellstocked publications. Easy Rock Internet Café Café Easy RockInternet TainoCafé Internet Blue Water offer internet-based international calls. There are dozensof internet cafés; manyalso Internet Access Police station Police emergency emergency Medical Fire emergency Emergency Top Spot Bookstores Rd. Sheffield Whitehall Rdandthendroppingdownto inland over upwith theNegrilHills,meeting Blvd,whichtion withWilliamHogg runs scrublandfor3kmtothejunc- runs through name changes againtoOceanDr. OceanDr beyondwhich itspast NegrilLighthouse, road isrenamed Rdandleads Lighthouse movin g vehicles). About 1kmsouth,the narrow, withmanyblindcorners andfast- top(becarefulcliff walking–theroadis Leagues Underthe Sea forscenesfromthemoviesthe setting restaurants builtatoptherockface. Itwas 220 access andinternational phone calls. Blvd;per30minUS$1.75)Internet .com; NormanManley INFORMATION West EndRdsnakes southalong the they claimedtobepregnant. Royal,asanexampletootherpirates.at Port The lives ofReadandBonneywere spared because Cay, attheharborentrance his bodysuspendedinanironsuitonwhatisnowcalledRackham women: MaryReadandAnneBonney,whohadbeenhismistress. wasexecuted Rackham and ofthebay’sname. struggle worthy were unaware taken of theirbeachparty bytheBritishnavy,whichoverwhelmed themafter a spree. Heandhisbandofmerrymengotalittletooonthelocalrum,incourse satisfyingplunderingunderwear, andhisbuccaneerspausedinBloodyBayafter aparticularly dallied alittletoolongonthebeach.In1720‘Calico’ Jack,sonamedforhisfondnesscalico apirateBefore who youparkyourselfonthesand,considerplightof‘Calico’ JackRackham, ‘CALICO’ JACK’S LASTSTAND ERL • nomto NEGRIL ••Information After were thebattle,Britishwere tofindthattwoof‘Calico’ actually shocked Jack’scohorts (Map (Map pp222-3 ; (Map (Map p225 ; (Map (Map pp222-3 ; ( % ( % ( 110, 957-4242) % Mp pp222-3; (Map % % 119) Mp pp222-3 ; (Map 110) 957-9813; www.cafetaino , 957-4542; SunshineVillage, % Papillon h 957-4268; SheffieldRd) 8am-11pm) Very hi- % and % 884-6030; 957- Dr No. 20,000 24hr) Hasa lab open9:30amto2pm Tuesday and Friday. Blvd; 4888; NormanManley h hosts a lively Negril bulletinboardon hosts alivelyNegril its website. West EndRd;per30minUS$1.75; of hotels,restaurants and activities. .com) Apopularonlinemeeting place. alternativewithcardreaders and businesslike disk burning. 4236; SunshineVillage,WestEndRd;perhrUS$4)A Negril Today Negril Jamaica Negril Negril andgreen projects initiatives. commerce.com) Goodinformationaboutcommunity Chamber ofCommerce Internet Resources Center Sunshine Internet YardMi Negril Beach Medical Center Beach Medical Negril &WellnessCenter Long BayMedical Lucea. and The nearest are hospitals inSavanna-la-Mar Medical Services Library Libraries West EndCleaners ‘n’NiceLaundromat Fresh Laundry Board Message Negril Behind Scotiabank. the Negril Resort Resort the Negril Association. listings. therapy andmassage.She also speaks German. ( Oezcan % 9494; Shop1,Plaza de Negril) 10am-6pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 10am-6pm Mon-Wed&Fri, 1-5pm Thu) 957-9028; Norman Manley Blvd) General practice. Oya practice. Blvd)General 957-9028; NormanManley (www.negril.com) Commercialsitewithnumerous (www.negril.com) (Map (Map pp222-3 ; % (Map (Map pp222-3 ; 440-7071) isbasedhere anddoesphysical (www.negriltoday.com) Features (www.negriltoday.com) reviews (www.negriljamaica.com) Operatedby (www.negriljamaica.com) (Map (Map pp222-3 ; % % (www.negril-message-board (www.negrilchamberof h 957-4917; WestEndRd; 957-4442; www.miyard.com; (Map (Map pp222-3 ; (Map (Map pp222-3 ; 9am-5pm, doctors oncall 9am-5pm, doctors (Map (Map p225 ; h % 24hr) Mi Yard24hr) Mi also lonelyplanet.com 957-0160) (Map (Map p225 ; % % % 957- 957- 957- NEGRIL & WEST COAST 221 957- 957-4343; % % 957-3309; Norman 957-3309; Norman % (Map pp222-3 ; pp222-3 (Map (Map pp222-3 ; (Map p225 ; p225 (Map The hustlers who work the beach for a liv- who work the beach The hustlers in plain view in Though ganja is smoked There are no sidewalks alongside West End are There Prostitution is an established part of the Prostitution is an establishedpart of especially of Opportunistic theft occurs, 4057; upstairs, Plaza de Negril) 4057; upstairs, Plaza gunpoint in their hotels; never open your hotel never open your hotel gunpoint in their hotels; ascertaining first without door to strangers their identity. At night a taxi take rather than lit roads. walk the dimly when walking the road; traf-Rd, so be careful past pell-mell. fic whips Manley Blvd) Manley Tourists have being arrested. visitors more as suffering harmful side ef-been reported from ganja, especially from ganja cakes. fects wild hallucinogenic This is also true of drinking alcohol mushrooms. Apparently a ‘bad trip’ can induce while on mushrooms – and the same may end up describing term your vacation. holiday liaisons are local scene and short-term should expect to hear visitors a staple. Female a constant lines enticing well-honed litanyof steel.’ ‘Jamaican you to sample some have properties. There and midrange budget at tourists being robbed of even been reports below, see p278 . p278 see below, want to establish a rela- ing will definitely you can expect to be tionship with you, and everything drugs to from endlessly offered – but alas not Usually themselves. the hustlers with a firm them off always – you can shake way back,’ or ‘maybe on the ‘not interested’ not passing back that way. if you know you’re but, by Tourist police now patrol the beach must permit public beaches law, all Jamaican to roam. Some free are access so the hustlers post security but hotels guards on the beach that effective. not always they’re present are police agents Negril, undercover a week goesand rarely by without one or Travel Agencies Agencies Travel TravelAdvanced Service Caribic Vacations National Travel Service End Rd) West Sunshine Village, & ANNOYANCES DANGERS Negril in no particular problems are There in elsewhere that can’t be encountered mul- although in Negril they are Jamaica, For in order. are reminders tiplied, so a few the subjects information on any of more items left on the beach, as does burglary in as does in left on the beach, burglary items 9am- h 888-957- 957-3735) 957-9599; 957-4926; 957-4926; % 957-4803, 957- % % 957-4076; Plaza 957-4076; Plaza % % 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) % 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, (NCC; Map pp222-3 ; pp222-3 Map (NCC; 957-5051; Negril 957-4236; West End Rd) You can pick it up at 957-9654; West End Rd) h (NCB; Map pp222-3 ; pp222-3 (NCB; Map h (Map p225 ; p225 (Map % 995-3242; Norman Manley % % (Map pp222-3 ; pp222-3 (Map (Map pp222-3 ; pp222-3 (Map (Map p225 ; ; p225 (Map % (Map pp222-3 ; pp222-3 (Map 957-5533; Negril Aerodrome) NEGRIL •• Dangers & Annoyances Negril Guide. (Map pp222-3 ; pp222-3 (Map % (Map pp222-3 ; Hi Lo Supermarket, pp222-3 (Map 9am-8pm Mon-Fri) Government-operated. Mon-Fri)9am-8pm (Map p225 ; p225 (Map (Map pp222-3 ; pp222-3 (Map h (Map pp222-3 ; pp222-3 (Map (Map p225 ; p225 (Map (Map p225 ; p225 (Map

957-4067; www.negrilchamberofcommerce.com; 957-4117; Sunshine Village, West End Rd) 957-4117; Sunshine Village, West

Between A Fi Wi Plaza and King’s Plaza. Wi Plaza and King’s Between A Fi Aerodrome) Handles UPS service. Aerodrome) Handles UPS Blvd) Private currency-exchange business. Blvd) Private currency-exchange Northwest exchange of Plaza de Negril; currency offers and ATMs. de Negril) 5pm Mon-Fri) Dispenses local maps and events information. 5pm Mon-Fri) Dispenses local maps and events 9314; Times Square Plaza, Norman Manley Square Blvd; 9314; Times % Sunshine Village, West End Rd; an annual Publishes post office. office west of the hotels or at the NCC % Sheffield Rd; Sheffield Negril Marine Office Park

Negril Chamber of Commerce Tourist Offices Tourist Offices Jamaica Tourist Board Behind the Negril Crafts Market at the south end of Norman marine park. Manley on the Blvd; can provide information CableWireless & office minutes to the USA or Western Europe and to the USA or Western minutes locally. minute US$0.50 per cafés now offer internet-based international international internet-based cafés now offer roughly US$2.50 for three charge calls. Hotels Telephone Telephone public phones at the main craft are There Plaza de Negril. Several and at market internet FedEx Post office Airpak Express Western Union Post National Commercial Bank Timetrend Scotiabank Avoid the black-market currency-exchange currency-exchange the black-market Avoid Negril Square. touts that hang out around many hotels offer currency exchange, you’ll get you’ll exchange, currency offer many hotels enterprise. at banks or a private rates better Thursday and 9am to 4pm Friday. There’s an and 9am to 4pm Friday. There’s Thursday Plaza de Negril. While north side of on the ATM Banks are open 9am to 2pm Monday to 9am to 2pm Monday open Banks are Ocean View Pharmacy Money Negril Pharmacy Negril Health Centre lonelyplanet.com 9700; shop 27, Plaza de Negril; cards. and WorldTalk phones 9am-4pm Sat) Public Sunshine Village, West End Rd) Sunshine Village, West King’s Plaza, West End Rd) King’s Plaza, West NEGRIL & WEST COAST 222 ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ0 1 km NEGRIL – WEST END 0 0.5 miles ERL • erl–Ws n –WestEnd NEGRIL ••Negril A B C ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅD E F ὄA1 ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅNegril Great Morass C A R I B B E A N Game Sanctuary 1 Long Bay S Negril River 1 S E A See Enlargement ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ52 27 Sheffield Rd 32 Norman63 Manley Blvd 11 3 ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ6 47 See Negril – Long Bay Map (p225) 4 5 Negril Whitehall Rd Westland Village 56 55 ὄ65 21 A2 To Savanna-la-Mar 29 Alaska Dr ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ (27km)

Mountain Rd Mountain Red Ground 60 ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ West End Rd 2 2 ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅWhitehall 22

16 2 64 ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὄS Negril Long Bay Negril Hills 53 30 49 River 8

Limetree La Red Rd 23 62 West End 7 57 9 Negril South Negril 59 1 Square Point Ground 58 Negril Village 61

41 10 Rd 3 Ὀ Negril Environmental ὄ0 200 m 3 Protection Area 0 0.1 miles 54 West End 33 51 44 13

20 Summerset Rd 42 35 Ὀ

31 43 lonelyplanet.com 37 45 N E G R I L E N V I R O N M E N T A L 4 36 50 34 4 17 P R O T E C T I O N A R E A 48 15 46 28

NEGRIL & WEST COAST

Caves...... Triple X...... Triple 56 18 Vernon's Car Rentals...... (see 61) Rentals...... (see Car Vernon's Lighthouse Inn...... (see 25) Inn...... (see Lighthouse B5 C1

Catcha Falling Star...... Falling Catcha 65 55 17 MXIII...... Ivan's Bar...... (see 17) Bar...... (see Ivan's A4 Transportation Center...... Transportation D2 B2

223

Blue Cave Castle...... Cave Blue 64 ENTERTAINMENT 16 45 Jus Jeep...... Jus A2 Hungry Lion...... Hungry A4 A2

S E A E S Banana Shout...... Banana 63 15 Boats to Great Morass...... Great to Boats Hi-Lo Supermarket...... (see 62) Supermarket...... (see Hi-Lo A4 C1

22 Westend...... 22 TRANSPORT 14 44 Sands...... (see 18) Sands...... (see Erica's Place...... Erica's B5 A3

Rick’s Café...... (see 48) Café...... (see Rick’s SLEEPING 43 DJ’s Place...... DJ’s A4 C A R I B B E A N A E B B I R A C 8 8

62 54 42 Pirate’s Cave...... Pirate’s Sunshine Village...... Sunshine 3 Dives Jerk Centre...... Jerk Dives 3 A4 D3 A3

Whitehall Great House...... Great Whitehall 61 53 Mia's Winebar...... Mia's 13 EATING Plaza de Negril...... de Plaza D3 F3 A2

Stanley’s Deep Sea Fishing.....(see 32) Fishing.....(see Sea Deep Stanley’s 60 Mi Yard...... (see 29) Yard...... (see Mi Kush Art Gallery...... Art Kush A2

59 Rusty's X-Cellent Adventures..(see 38) Adventures..(see X-Cellent Rusty's 41 LTU Pub...... (see 46) Pub...... (see LTU King’s Plaza...... King’s Xtabi...... A3 E3

Negril Scuba Centre...... (see 31) Centre...... (see Scuba Negril 58 40 Hotel Samsara...... (see 23) Samsara...... (see Hotel Coral Seas Plaza...... Seas Coral Westender Inn...... Westender E7 E3

Negril Lighthouse...... Negril DRINKING 12 39 Collectibles Art Gallery...... (see 45) Gallery...... (see Art Collectibles B5 F7 Wendy Lindo’s B&B...... Lindo’s Wendy

Marine Life Divers...... (see 23) Divers...... (see Life Marine 57 38 Treetops...... A Fi Wi Plaza...... Wi Fi A C6 E3

11 SHOPPING 37 Country Western Horse Rental.. Horse Western Country Xtabi...... (see 41) Xtabi...... (see Tensing Pen...... Tensing D1 A4

Anita Island Tours...... (see 62) Tours...... (see Island Anita 52 36 Sweet Spice Restaurant...... Spice Sweet Sundown Cottage...... Sundown A4 D1

Abba Jahnehoy's Garden...... Jahnehoy's Abba 51 10 35 Sips & Bites...... & Sips Summerset Village...... Summerset B3 A4 A3

Serious Chicken...... Serious 50 34 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES & SIGHTS Seastar Inn...... Seastar B4 A4

49 33 Rockhouse...... A3 Royal Kitchen Vegetarian Café.. Vegetarian Kitchen Royal A2

Western Union...... (see 62) Union...... (see Western 32 Rockhouse Restaurant & Bar..(see 33) Bar..(see & Restaurant Rockhouse B1 Club...... Yacht Negril

40 7 7

William

West End Cleaners...... End West 48 31 9 Rick’s Café...... Rick’s Negril Escape Resort & Spa...... & Resort Escape Negril A4 E3 A4

Top Spot...... (see 62) Spot...... (see Top Miss Brown’s...... Miss 47 30 Moonlight Villa...... Moonlight A2 E1

Sunshine Internet Center...... (see 62) Center...... (see Internet Sunshine 29 Mi Yard...... (see 29) Yard...... (see Mi Mi Yard...... Mi B2

Hogg

Scotiabank...... LTU Pub...... LTU 46 8 28 LTU Villas...... LTU A4 E3 A4

Post Office...... Post 27 7 Llantrissant Beach House...... Beach Llantrissant E3 B1 39

Blvd

26 6 Lighthouse Park...... Lighthouse D1 B5 Police Station...... Police

Ocean View Pharmacy...... (see 59) Pharmacy...... (see View Ocean 25 Lighthouse Inn...... Lighthouse B5

Negril Pharmacy...... (see 61) Pharmacy...... (see Negril 24 Jackie’s On The Reef...... The On Jackie’s E7

Negril Health Centre...... Health Negril 23 5 Hotel Samsara...... Hotel D1 A3 Beaver Ave Beaver

22 Negril Chamber of Commerce..(see 62) Commerce..(see of Chamber Negril A2 Home Sweet Home...... Sweet Home

National Travel Service...... (see 62) Service...... (see Travel National 21 Heartbeat...... B2

Hill

Ocean Dr Ocean Mi Yard...... (see 29) Yard...... (see Mi 20 Drumville Cove...... Drumville A4

Orange

Library...... 19 4 Coral Seas Cliff Resort...... Cliff Seas Coral B1 A4

6 6 Fresh 'n' Nice Laundromat.....(see 61) Laundromat.....(see Nice 'n' Fresh

Easy Rock Internet Café...... Internet Rock Easy 3 B1

38 Cable & Wireless Office...... (see 61) Office...... (see Wireless & Cable

Blue Water Internet...... Water Blue 2 A2

ATM...... 1 F3

Hilton Ave Hilton Advanced Travel Service...... (see 61) Service...... (see Travel Advanced

INFORMATION

Point

Lighthouse Rd Lighthouse

West 14

NEGRIL •• Negril – West End 12

S E A E S

5 5

C A R I B B E A N A E B B I R A C

18 Mt Airy Mt lonelyplanet.com NEGRIL & WEST COAST 4050, 578-9578 strip, the A2 for Savanna-la-Mar. town of Retirement, linksto andeventually thehillsvia Hill, swingseastthrough Rdtothehamletoffrom Sheffield Orange access fromNegril:Whitehall Rdleadssouth hamlets sprinklethesingleroadthat provides land iswildandsmothered inbrush. Tiny limestone up- Negril’s WestEnd.Theraised This range of inlandof low-lying hillsrises Negril Hills Island. Coconut Mikie’s can beeasilydistracted atCaptain available atthree restaurants, andchildren River ride. Foodis tranquil RioBuenoLazy the 15mdropof theJamaica Bobsled tothe Tue-Sun Blvd; Norman Manley Park theme-park, the2-hectare drinks. and hubbub. There’s ajerkshack snacks selling of localsenjoyingsomerepose awayfromthe save travelers forafew savvy andasmattering (Map p225 ), withnofacilitiesandfew people, plus and picnictables changing rooms. where you’llfindmoreBeach, sugarysand Bay BeachPark elsewhere. look –butifyou’reCaribbean lookingforsolitude, contend thatit’sthemostbeautifulin the beach isstillbeautifultobehold –some clear waters andnearbycoralreefs meanthat water sportonoffer. Theswayingpalms, conceivablebars andevery andnightspots much livelier placewithscores of restaurants, has changed way.Todayit’sa innearlyevery thebeachperfumes thebreeze, butotherwise smellofsurf, andthesweet ganjasmoke still half submerged onlounge chairs inthegentle memory. As before, topless sunbathers lie ists intheearly1970sisnowonlyahappy sensual- place thatdrew blissed-out allthose Buttheonce-peacefulbut youandthesea.’ tourism posters milesof as‘seven nothing –wasinitiallytouted on called NegrilBeach Beach Mile Seven Beaches SIGHTS 224 Another splendidoptionis aworldawayfromtheNegril Seemingly If you prefer yourwater fundoledoutina More peacefulandfarlesscrowdedis

ERL • ihs NEGRIL ••Sights Mp p225; (Map Abba Jahnehoy’s Garden Garden Abba Jahnehoy’s ) offers 10different rides,rangingfrom ) isathree-story and meditation (Map p225 Mile ), northof Seven %

(Map p225 ) adult/child US$28/19; 957-5400; www.koolrunnings.com; Kool Runnings Water Kool RunningsWater Mp pp222-3 ; (Map

Bloody BayBeach – sometimes h 11am-7pm % Long 371- system and formsarefuge forendangered wa- the island’ssecond-largest freshwater wetland Negril River The swampis toOrange Bay. of mangroves stretches 16kmfromtheSouth This virtuallyimpenetrable3km-wideswamp Great Morass ‘guides.’ self-described out andattempt themselves toattach as ing US$5foratourbythelocalswhohang horseback rides.Don’tbefooledintopay- groundsprovideing plantation astage for ruins followingafire in1985.Thesurround- is himself a call. Rd tothetopandthenask,orgive Janhoi roads: eithertake theWestlandMountain located attheendof of aseries unmarked dirt thereGetting ishalfthefun,asgarden’s that ismadefromhisgarden’sproduce. over bowlsof hisexcellenthomemadesoup points of numerology(orallof theabove) or reggae orthefiner orNegril’sdevelopment to discuss theinsand outsof Rastafarianism, He’s whoismore thanhappy agraciousRasta buildingistheworkofoctagonal Janhoi Jaja. rounded byavegetable androotgarden,the Solarpowereding downtothesea. andsur- offers asplendidpanoramicviewextend- woodpeckers and countlessother birds.Two egrets, endangered black parakeets, Jamaican terflies galore aswelldoctorbirds,herons, bull thatch forest. They’re allhometobut- royal palmforest, buttonwood forest and tinct swampforest typesare present –the Threea 1.5kmlooparoundthereserve. dis- US$10/5; 19 ; Morass isatthe stocks. fish have poisonedthecoralreefs anddepleted where makingtheirwaytosea theytable, intotheregion’shave shallowwater seeped water andotherpollutants andsewage levels, channels cutintotheswamphave lowered the source of fresh much-needed water. Drainage from thehillseastof Negril,and isthereby a filtering thewaters flowingdowntotheocean of the Orange River. here atthemouth andare occasionallyseen terfowl. American crocodilesstillclingtolife learning center that is poised onahill,andlearning center thatispoised The onlyothersite of note inthehills ofThe easiestway toget theGreat asense The Great Morass actslike agiantsponge Whitehall Great House Great Whitehall % 957-3115; www.royalpalmreserve.com; adult/child 957-3115; www.royalpalmreserve.com; h 9am-6pm) Royal Palm Reserve . Woodenboardwalksmake Mp p223) in pp222–3), (Map lonelyplanet.com (Map (Map pp218-

NEGRIL & WEST COAST

s s

225 a r o

r M

M o a s s t

a t a

e e Negril

G r r Aerodrome G Hanover 47 40 A2 18 D 13 Game Sanctuary 61 Westmoreland 66 41 Negril Great Morass 3 Savanna-la-Mar (27km) A1 Blvd Game Sanctuary 26 51

Manley Negril Great Morass 1 Royal Palm Reserve (6km); 14 10 Norman 36 53 24 57 22 Rd 62 15 29 Bay 64 54 A1 Park To Negril Hills Golf Club (4km); 44 42 Long 50 33 45 Beach 23 25 43 67 11 21 17 55 65 9 56 38 16 35 4 12 46

Lucea (39km); 58 River Negril S

Sea Park (0.5km);

30 h 20

c 32

00 0.5 miles 1 km Sheffield To Norman Manley To Norman

a 5

e 31 27 60 Montego Bay (81km) B

59 37

Bloody Bay 28

l 49

Negril i

8 M 48

52 2

Enviromental n

Protection Area e

Rhodes Hall Plantation (5km); Rhodes Hall Plantation B a y

v 19 39

L o n g e

ὈὈ ὈὈ S 63 A1 6 Point Rutland Manley Norman Sea Park D5 D5 C6 C6 D4 D4 C6 D1 D6 D4 C6 D3 D5 D5 D5 D3 L o n g B a y ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 Cay

Booby Rd

ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄὈὈ End ὄὄὈὈ West B Wright’s Bike Rental...... Legends Beach Resort...... (see 32) Risky Business...... Sunrise Club...... (see 46) Alfred’s Ocean Palace...... (see 56) Bourbon Beach...... De Buss...... Jungle...... Roots Bamboo...... (see 43) Cigar World...... (see 65) Ja-Ja Originals...... Kuyaba Arts and Crafts Boutique...... (see 31) Negril Crafts Market...... Rutland Point Craft Center...... Tajmahal's...... (see 65) Times Square Plaza...... Caribic Vacations...... (see 2) Dependable Bike Rental...... (see 66) TimAir...... (see 3) Tropical Tours...... (see 13) Vernon's Car Rentals...... Angela's...... Bourbon Beach...... (see 59) Cosmo’s...... Da Gino's...... (see 33) Gambino’s Italian Restaurant..(see 14) Hunan Garden...... (see 21) Jamaica Tamboo...... (see 30) Kuyaba on the Beach...... (see 31) Le Vendôme...... (see 17) Lobster House...... (see 46) Norma's on the Beach...... (see 45) Ristorante da Gino Italiano.....(see 33) Selina’s...... Sonia’s...... Alfred’s Ocean Palace...... Cosmo's...... (see 53) Jimmy Buffett's Margaritaville.. EATING DRINKING ENTERTAINMENT SHOPPING TRANSPORT (1km) To West End D3 D3 D6 D1 C6 C6 D4 D4 D5 D4 D5 D5 D3 C6 D4 C1 D4 D1 D4 D5 D3 D1 D3 D3 D3 D5 C1 C1 D4 D5 C5 D5 D2 D3 D3 D3 D2 D4 D4 C6 C6 C6 C6 C6 D1 D2 D5 C6 D1 D6 C6 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 NEGRIL •• Negril – Long Bay AC SLEEPING Sandals Negril Beach Resort Foote Prints on the Sands Golden Sunset Villas & Original Mayfield Falls & Long Bay Medical & Wellness Long Bay Medical Sunset at the Palms...... Travellers Beach Resort...... Westport Cottages...... Whistling Bird...... White Sands...... Rondel Village...... Roots Bamboo...... & Spa...... Sea Splash Resort...... Sunrise Club...... Negril Gardens...... Negril Tree House...... Negril Yoga Centre...... Nirvana on the Beach...... Point Village...... Rayon Hotel...... Riu Tropical Bay Resort...... Hedonism II...... Idle Awhile...... Jamaica Tamboo...... Kuyaba...... Legends Beach Resort...... Mariposa Hideaway...... Merril's Beach Resort...... Firefly...... Hotel...... Cottages...... Grand Lido Negril...... Charela Inn...... Chippewa Village Hotel...... Coral Seas Beach Resort...... Coral Seas Garden Resort...... Country Country...... Couples Negril...... Couples Swept Away...... Tropical Tours...... Beachcomber Club & Spa...... Beaches Negril...... Beaches Sandy Bay...... Kool Runnings Water Park...... Negril Scuba Centre...... (see 47) Mineral Springs Office...... Ray’s Water Sports...... Sun Divers...... (see 39) Treehouse Watersports...... (see 36) Aqua-Nova Water Sports...... Bloody Bay Beach...... Caribic Vacations...... (see 2) Irie Tours...... (see 36) JUTA Tours...... (see 63) Center...... Center...... Negril Beach Medical Negril Coral Reef Preservation Society...... (see 6) Negril Marine Park Office...... Timetrend...... Airpak Express...... (see 3) Airpak Express...... (see Café Taino...... Caribic Vacations...... FedEx...... 65) Jamaica Tourist Board...... (see INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES See Negril – West End Map (pp222–3) NEGRIL – LONG BAY – LONG NEGRIL 5 2 3 1 6 4 lonelyplanet.com NEGRIL & WEST COAST outside the Royal Palm Reserve, negoti- outside theRoyalPalm Reserve, Toexplorethe reserve. theGreat Morass te coast. the up the103 stairs for abird’s-eyeview of superintendent, willgladly leadtheway Wilson Johnson, the twoseconds. every kerosene, isnowsolarpowered andflashes made inParis andoriginally powered by erectedlighthouse, in1894with aprism Jamaica, at18°15’north,78°23’ west.The illuminates thewesternmost pointof h Lighthouse roundtrip. US$25 cessionaires canarrange boatsforabout make theirnestshere. Water-sports con- birds –‘boobies’ inlocalparlance–that the Sea. Walt Disneymovie inthe setting asaSouthSeas was used 1km offshore from RutlandPoint,which BoobyCay Other Sights US$35 for two hours. end of Itcosts BloodyBay. approximately Park,at NormanManley Sea atthenorth east of NegrilVillage), or with fishermen along theSouthNegrilRiver (justnorth- ate withvillagers whohave boatsmoored local touroperators ( p228 ) turn leftafter thegolfcourse. Otherwise, east of theroundaboutfor10 minutes and mangroves. tangled towers provide viewsoverobservation the 226 The gleamingwhite, 20m-tall If youare driving,take Rd Sheffield management (www.blueflag.org). criteriaBlue Flagenvironmentaloutfit’sstrict forwater andbeachqualityaswellenvironmental maintain theirbeachesthroughtheBlueFlagAwardwhichtheycanbeawardedifmeet for outlyingcommunitiesandthereforestation ofdeforested areas. Italsoencourageshotels to of mangrove orwetlandareas, theestablishmentof‘fishmanagementzones’,sewagesystems NEPA cuttingordraining planestablishesguidelinesfortourismgrowth,moratoriumsonfurther the NegrilMarinePark andembracinguplands,morass,shoreline, offshore lagoonandreefs. The and StJohn’sPoint. Great Morassswamplandandalllandareas thatdrainintotheCaribbean betweenGreen Island drained bytheOrange,Fish, NegrilandSouthRivers), includingthe Newfound,North park extending outtosea. The intention istoprotect theentire Negrilwatershed (the area (south ofNegril)andinlandtoFish River villageandOrangeHills. Italsoincludesamarine This protected coasttoStJohn’sPoint wildernesszoneextends fromGreen Islandonthenorth NEGRIL ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AREA 9am-sunset) ERL • ciiis NEGRIL ••Activities The NegrilEnvironmentalProtection Area (NEPA) wasdeclared inNovember 1997,incorporating Theislandisnamedforthesea- (Map p225 ) (Map (Map pp222-3 ; WestEndRd; admissionfree; , 5kmsouthof NegrilVillage, 20,000 Leagues Under

is asmallcoralisland

run tripsto Negril 7910; Sheffield Rd; rides US$50; 7910; SheffieldRd;rides instruction and commentary alongtheway. instruction andcommentary awesome views;yourguideprovides casual routes followgoatpaths ridges tohigh with single-trackinto theNegrilHills.Exciting quality two-tofour-hour mountain-bike tours rental US$25/35) person without/withbike Ave; Treetops, Hilton 0155; [email protected]; toursper east of Negril. along OceanDrorintheNegrilHills,south- proposition intown.Thebestplacetorideis Blvd andWestEndRdmakes cyclinga dicey alongNormanManley traffic The intense Bicycling jamaica.com; 2-hr rides inclhoteltransfersjamaica.com; US$50-60) 2-hrrides and thencontinues intothe Negril Hills. Theroute followsthecoast the policestation. HorseRental CountryWestern Horseback Riding proshop clubhouse, and restaurant. probably get toitfirst! Facilities here includea ball inthewater, forget it–thecrocodiles will about 5kmeastof Negril.Ifyouplopyour par-72 thatborders course theGreat Morass, US$18/35, caddyUS$14; rental club.com; SheffieldRd;green fee US$58,club/cart GolfClub Hills Negril Golf lodging. Reservations are required. at Treetops, where gnarlybikers canalsofind accessories –isincluded.Tours beginandend All equipment–bikes, helmets,water and ACTIVITIES Rusty’s X-Cellent Adventures Rusty’sX-Cellent Rhodes HallPlantation Rhodes ( % h 957-4638; www.negrilhillsgolf 7:30am-4pm)

h ( %

Mp pp222-3; (Map 8am-5pm) Mp pp222-3; (Map

957-6883; rhodes@cw lonelyplanet.com offers high- An18-hole isnextto % % , 5km 955- 957- NEGRIL & WEST COAST Ray’s 227 (Map p225 ;

(Map pp222- (Map

(Map pp222-3 ;

957-3245; www 957-4425, 957-9641; % % (

957-4349; www.rayswater . Sunset at the Palms 957-4503; www.sundivers % ); % (www.negrilscuba.com; dive 1-/2-tank Negril Escape Resort & Spa (Map pp222-3 ; pp222-3 (Map

at the north end of Long Bay, at the north end of (Map p225 ;

Stanley’s Deep Sea Fishing (Map p225 ; p225 (Map offers custom fishing-trip charters charters custom fishing-trip offers Mariner’s Negril Beach Club

957-0667; www.stanleysdeepseafishing.com; Negril957-0667; www.stanleysdeepseafishing.com; 957-0392; West End Rd Parasailing on Long Bay is offered by on Long Bay is offered Parasailing For a more offbeat experience, head out into offbeat For a more Most all-inclusive resorts have scuba facili- have resorts Most all-inclusive 383-9533; Bloody Bay Beach) 383-9533; Bloody % (US$25 for 30 minutes), glass-bottom boat glass-bottom (US$25 for 30 minutes), rides (using rides (US$15) and banana-boat an inflatable banana-shaped raft towed by a speedboat; US$15). Water Sports sportsnegril.com) 3 ; Club) Yacht (US$400/600/800 per half/three-quarter/full day for up to four people; for additional pas- per head). add US$50/75/100 sengers ask around the briny with a local fisherman; or talk South Negril River, over by the bridge Negril River. to the fishermen near North Water Sports usually mirror- off Negril are The waters sports. water calm – ideal for all kinds of rent Numerous concessions along the beach plus jet skis (about US$40 for 30 minutes), sea kayaks, sailboards and Sunfish (about waterskiing US$20 per hour). They also offer Sun Divers Snorkeling is especially good at the southern Snorkeling Long Bay and off Expect the West End. end of US$5 an hour for masks and fins to pay about Most of from concession stands on the beach. snorkeling offer the scuba-diving providers (about US$25). tours Sport Fishing off Negril – teeming with tuna, The waters blue marlin, wahoo and sailfish – provide en- some excellent action for sport-fishing thusiasts. massive sponges, plentiful soft corals, nurse corals, nurse soft plentiful sponges, massive and stingrays. octopuses,sharks, barracuda among the companies are ties. The following and introductory certification PADI offering ‘resort courses’. MarineLife Divers Negril Scuba Centre US$40/70) Norman Manley Blvd); % negril.com; dive US$40/70) Many Point Village; 1-/2-tank Ansel Clarke. trips led by the charismatic .mldiversnegril.com; West End Rd; 1-/2-tank Hotel Samsara, instructors. English- and German-speakingdive US$40/70) %

is 957- % Best Boat Reef lies in 10m of lies in 10m of Aweemaway 957-9930; www is the remains is the remains % ( Two party boats, (Map pp222-3 ;

, with adults-only , with adults-only

Day cruises on a Day cruises on a leads through tunnels is a 15m-wide cave with is a 15m-wide cave Deep Plane 957-6163) Sands Club Reef . % ( Sunsation NEGRIL •• Activities Shark’s Reef The Throne The and 957-3357) % (

There are several sites here that will be of that will be of several here sites are There Visibility often exceeds 30m and seasVisibility often are Glass-bottom boat rides are a great way to a great rides are boat Glass-bottom

Island Charters Wild Thing Watersports Stanley’s Deep Sea Fishing a shallow reef area south of the Throne, and south of area a shallow reef has tame stingrays. nian corals. drift dive to drift dive and gorgo- sponges with huge and overhangs nearby overhang. nearby overhang. a Long Bay. From here, in the middle of water Corals and sponges have taken up residence up residence taken have Corals and sponges in and around the plane, attracting an abun- and nurse fish, sharks hang out at a dance of of a Cessna airplane lying at 21m underwater. a Cessnaof airplane lying at 21m underwater. interest for prospective divers. divers. for prospective interest information, see p53 .) p53 see information, 23m of water. (For more general scuba-diving general (For more water. 23m of sponges are a noteworthy feature. The West feature. a noteworthy are sponges and tunnels; its overhangs caves End offers turtles Hawksbill for night popular dives. are common here. still quite are in 10m to are dependably calm. Most dives divers and mid-depth reefs right off the main reefs and mid-depth divers tube dwarf of at Long Bay.beach Clusters Negril offers extensive offshore reefs and cliffs reefs offshore extensive offers Negril for novice with grottoes, perfect shallow reefs Tours Club) Negril0667; www.stanleysdeepseafishing.com; Yacht cruises. whale- and dolphin-watching offers Scuba Diving Sunsplash for kids. cruises and fun cruises see if you don’t want and coral life the fish several to choose from are wet. There to get on Long Bay including beach, to Rick’s Café (US$50). You’ll find the boat at Negril Beach. on Chances restaurant Moon Bay (US$60, Tuesday, Saturday and also daily sunset cruises are Sunday). There 45ft catamaran go to Rhodes Hall (US$85; 45ft catamaran Rhodes go to Hall Friday) and Half Monday, Wednesday and

tels. Most trips include snorkeling and plenty snorkeling Most trips include tels. the two! booze, but don’t mix of Sailing & Cruising Sailing & Cruising Several three-hour two- and offer companies at most ho- can be booked Tours excursions. north of Negril at Green Island, offers rides offers Island, at Green Negril of north through plantations banana into the and up . p241 see hills; lonelyplanet.com .wildthingwatersportsnegril.com) NEGRIL & WEST COAST cwjamaica.com; Norman Manley cwjamaica.com; NormanManley Blvd) Jamaica Sprint Triathlon Jamaica Sprint January FESTIVALS &EVENTS Tropical Tours JUTA Tours Tours Irie US$50) inanine-passenger minivan. transfers (one tothree people tours islandwideandairport reliable, comfortable Offers transportservicejamaica.com) Service Transport Clive’s Vacations Caribic Anita IslandTours (US$65) andRoaring River (US$60). east inStElizabeth parish,Mayfield Falls (aboutAppleton RumEstate US$85)tothe of excursions totheBlackRiver Morass and tour operators offer fare astandard Several % Cluband Beach Blvd) NormanManley .negrill.com/aquaa; Sports Water Aqua-Nova 228 Couples Swept Away resort’s sports sports Couples Swept Awayresort’s complex. Also hastourstotheRoyal Palm Reserve. Blvd)Thelargestoperator.vacations.com; NormanManley Sunshine Village,West End Rd) Mne Blvd) Manley Association; Norman Manley Norman Manley Blvd) TOURS thatoncefavored thebeachfornesting.can bedonetobringbackthemarineturtles could seriouslythreaten oftheentire thefunctioning ecosystem. with theGreat Morass. The percentage oflive coralcover coralloss isnowsolowthatfurther Negril’s offshore reefs have beenseverely boomandhumantinkering damagedbytheresort THE FRAGILECORALREEFS andscubadivers,snorkelers includingthefollowingguidelines: for onNormanManleyBlvd,hasestablishedacodeofconduct totheNegrilCraftsMarket next

957-4893; Negril Tree House,Norman 957-4893; Negril Blvd) Manley Never touch,handleorfeed guidanceandfollowinglocally marinelife exceptunderexpert Take nothinglivingordeadoutofthewater, exceptrecent garbagewhichdoesnothave Move slowlyanddeliberately inthewater –relax yourtime. asyouswimandtake Stayhorizontalinthewater whileyou’re nearorabove thereef. distancefromthereef, soastoavoidcontact. Maintainacomfortable oncorals. pointsofentryandexittoavoidwalking Select Never touchcorals;even canharmthem. slightcontact ERL • or NEGRIL ••Tours The oftheNEPA part Reef restoration isanimportant (seetheboxed project text, p226 ). Butnothing established guidelines. living organisms onit. (Map (Map p225 ; Negril CoralReef Preservation Society % (Map (Map p225 ; Jamaican UnionofTravelers (Map (Map p225 ; 957-9197; Negril Crafts Market, Norman Market, Crafts 957-9197; Negril (Map (Map p225 ; (Map (Map pp222-3 ; Treehouse Watersports Treehouse % 957-3806; Negril Tree House, 957-3806; Negril % ( (

% % ( p225; % 957-4110; tropical@ 956-2615; www.clives 957-4061) Held atthe 957-3309; caribic % % atMariner’s 957-9946; 957-4323; www Mp p225; (Map

(NCRPS; December andtastingsfor foodies,fromjerkto Seminars champagne. break livemusicandplenty celebration,featuring of booze. famousspring- isNegril’s spanning sixweekstoearlyApril Unleash theTiger Jamaica Beachfest February independent hotels has somevisitors moving sibilities. Thelarge number of one-of-a-kind istopick theonethatbestsuitsyoursen- task quality economical choices –yourpleasurable all budgets of –including abountifulselection it comestoaccommodations.With rooms for Jamaica, travelers are spoiledfor choice when In Negrilmore thananyotherresort townin SLEEPING &Half-Marathon Marathon Reggae Escape Epicurean Festival Music Negril Festival andChocolate IceCream Negril 3454) EasterSundayand Monday. Mne Blvd. Manley marathon withamusicalsoundtrackstagedon Norman www.reggaemarathon.com) Bothafull-andhalf- March &April ofJamaican inobservance concert Carnival. August &September and calypsofestival in March.

% 957-3735; http://negril.com/ncrps) ( ( Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels % Starting inlateFebruary andnow Starting % ( % 518-5006; Grand Lido Negril) 518-5006; GrandLidoNegril) 957-4005; TheJungle)Abig 968-9356) Three-day reggae 968-9356) Three-day ( % , located ( 922-8677; % 957- NEGRIL & WEST COAST 229 957-4676; 957-4676; With con- % 957-9308; www ) This cheerful This cheerful % s 957-4293; www.sunrise ( (Map p225 ; %

957-4318; www.kuyaba.com; cot- % (Map p225 ; ) Although overrun during spring Although overrun Easing back onto the Great Morass, Easing back onto the Great ) (Map ; p225

Kuyaba Sunrise Club Travellers Beach Resort Thai-style wooden cabin to an adobe farm- adobe cabin to an wooden Thai-style great breakfasts propelled by divine espresso. propelled by breakfasts great tage US$77, r US$97, honeymoon ste US$106) family-run hotel siderable style, this tasteful six quaint rustic wooden cabins with offers trim, done up in bright Caribbean filigree in a wooden sundeck. There’s a small res- in a wooden sundeck. There’s taurant and bar, with American home cook- steam ing (for guests only), plus a Jacuzzi, the room and a viewing tower overlooking Great Morass. pai is enhanced by its in- this gracious getaway natural aesthetic, with earth colors, timate touches architectural hardwoods and creative It has 15 rooms: in American Southwest style. simply furnished are older rooms to the rear neat bathrooms, while newer rooms but have blue mahoe furnishings. All have feature It has a cable TV. windows, fans and screened hip bar with a cosmopolitan and its clientele, servesoutstanding House Lobster restaurant features 14 bungalows, two suites and 39 sim- 14 bungalows, two suites features grotto and water a small ple rooms. There’s fish tanks with a snapping tur- in the lobby restaurant the beach and The bar is lively tle. jerk chicken. serves excellent MIDRANGE Chippewa Village Hotel chippewavillageresort.com;US$80, cottage d US$55, studio 1-/2-/3-bedroom US$140/180/200; octagonal studio units with three offers choice ceilings and six and lofty porches screened are apartments. They one- to three-bedroom all rustic, rough-hewn affairs oozing a warm ambience, epitomized by American Southwest fabrics. A small decor, throw rugs and tasteful canopy is inset swimming pool under a shade er’s cottage; all are pleasingly if modestly if modestly pleasingly are all er’s cottage; stafffurnished. The their own yogurt, make on re- sprouts, and cook meals and cheese offered yoga classesquest. Naturally, are massages US$10/15), as are (guests/visitors This a communal kitchen. (US$60). There’s alone for women traveling is a good option with children. and families .travellersresorts.com; s US$51-55, d US$94-127, ste US$190; pais of the rest bargain real is a Travellers break, The 60-room family-owned resort the year. club.com; s/d US$70/98, meal plans per person US$22-38; club.com; s/d US$70/98, meal plans per person US$22-38; 957- % ) This is a 957-4397; www a

(Map p225 ; % NEGRIL •• Sleeping 957-4479; www.roots 957-4736, 307-5466; s/ The eight rustic ) % % a

(Map p225 ;

(Map p225 ; (Map p225 ;

Another longtime favorite of the of Another longtime favorite ) This offbeat place with a communal place with This offbeat a

Roots Bamboo Roots Bamboo In general beach properties are more ex- more properties are beach In general

Negril Yoga Centre Golden Sunset Villas & Cottages The hotels recommended here are listed by listed are here recommended The hotels in a garden. Options range from a two-story, in a garden. Options range with fridges and fans – surround an open- with fridges set yoga center thatched air, wood-floored, .negrilyoga.com; d US$46-75; – most yet atmospheric rooms and cottages and ‘superior’ rooms with air-con and TV. All and TV. and ‘superior’ rooms with air-con kitchenettes. share rooms ‘economy’ rooms with fan and cold water ‘economy’ rooms with fan and cold water and fan, only, ‘standard’ rooms with hot water US$45-86; 4241, 957-9703; www.thegoldensunset.com; s US$35-75, d are regularly scheduled live reggae concerts reggae live scheduled regularly are party atmosphere. and a perpetual solitude you seek, try another place; here there solitude you seek, there try another place; here cabins right on the beach. Some have showers; showers; cabins right Some have on the beach. with block a communal shower share others bar and a small beachside There’s campers. with pool tables. If it’s peace and restaurant porch & shower US$55, with air-con US$70; bamboo.com; camping per person US$10, r US$30; d with camping per person US$10, r US$30; d with bamboo.com; provided. Airport transfers are offered at a offered are Airport transfers provided. bargain (US$5). kitchen is available, and bicycles (US$5 per is available, kitchen are equipment (free!) day) and snorkeling rooms to the rear are preferable. A communal preferable. are rooms to the rear for ‘smoke-friendly heartical people.’ Joseph heartical people.’ for ‘smoke-friendly rustic, somewhat stuffyhas 17 very huts with bath- mosquito nets and fans. The well-kept Newer outside. are rooms and cold showers tremely popular with the backpacking crowd. tremely says it’s approved Owner Joseph Mathews d US$15/20) Long Bay is ex- end of vibe on the roundabout BUDGET BUDGET Westport Cottages Long Bay Long Bay season) unless otherwise Summer (low noted. 60% lower. season) to can be 20% rates price range. Rates quoted are for winter (high for winter Rates are quoted price range. the coast road, variously called West End Rd, variously called West the coast road, Ocean Dr. Lighthouse Rd and all ‘Long Bay’ beach hotels are on Norman on Norman are all ‘Long Bay’ hotels beach on are hotels Blvd, and all ‘West End’ Manley pensive than hotels of equivalent standard of than hotels pensive End. Unless otherwisein the West noted, from place to place over the course of their the course of over to place from place it. of the fun just for vacations, Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book budget crowd. It has 21 rustic cottages and crowd. It has 21 rustic cottages budget popular beachside option with 26 well-kept with 26 well-kept option popular beachside NEGRIL & WEST COAST hotels.com; rUS$100-120, steUS$140; best restaurants inNegril. (p236), oneof the to Norma’sonthe Beach Splashisalsohome Swept Awayresort. Sea cess tothefacilities atthenearbyCouples a handsomebeach bar,and guestsgainac- bedroom andplentyof amenities.There is cony, fullyequippedkitchenette, screened-off are tastefully appointed, each withlarge bal- pas 254-2786; www.seasplash.com;rUS$120-156,ste US$180-204; cottage with kitchenette. one-bedroom cottages plusatwo-bedroom tion has22roomswithbalconies,twosimple bar andrestaurant, thisrecently updated op- wood structures andahappeningbeachside pa rUS$95,1-/2-bedroomcottageUS$125; tamboonegril.com; sage, apoolbarand tennis court. Facilities offering includeabeautysalon mas- conies; there are alsosuites with fullkitchens. cathedral ceilingswithfansandprivate bal- The superiorroomshave four-poster beds, well-run operationthatcovers allthebases. complexopposite thebeachThis spiffy isa noon. before whereItaliano, flowing thegrappastarts great bonushere istheRistorante daGino andfridge. A apartment, allwithcableTV studios withkitchenettes, andafamily-size place. Inadditiontoroomsthere are excellent US$150; rUS$80-140,2-bedroomapt www.mariposahideaway.com; recites dub poetry. gardenandaparrotwhowell-maintained and hasitsownpool.There’s alsoapleasant, four-bathroom people eight villathat sleeps amenities, andanexcellentfour-bedroom, one-bedroom unitswithvaried octagonal tractive propertyoffers simpleyetelegant Providing goodbangforthebuck,thisat- jamaica.com; rUS$69-108,studio/villaUS$138/540; store andlive music7pmto 9pm nightly. the property.There’s alsoawell-stocked gift restaurant, to attached Kuyaba ontheBeach owners are gourmandsandrunthesplendid rated withterra-cotta floors. Theecoconscious tastefully deco- some stone-and-timberhouse a suite withking-sizedbedupstairs inahand- colors. There are also three deluxe roomsand 230 Sea Splash Resort Sea Jamaica Tamboo Hotel Rayon Hideaway Mariposa Sands White ERL • leig NEGRIL ••Sleeping ) pa Featuring modestlyfurnishedhard- ) Atthiselegantresort the suites ) This Italian-run hotel is a twee hotel isatwee ThisItalian-run Mp p225; (Map

Mp p225; (Map (Map p225; (Map

Mp p225; (Map

% Mp p225; (Map % % 957-4291; www.whitesands % 957-9166; www.rayon 957-4282; www.jamaica 876-957-4041, 800- pais % 957-4918;

as ) )

distance fromNegrilGardens,thisattractivedistance www.rondelvillage.com; dUS$95-150,1-/2-bedroomvilla are staged onTuesdayand Friday night. lively restaurant andsportsbar;reggae shows face thebeach. There are twopoolsplusa balconies orverandas. Higher-priced rooms that includeceilingfans,twodoublebedsand gleaming white roomswithbasicfurnishings pais www.visitnegril.com/legends; dUS$110-125,trUS$125-140; standard and price. is acrossthestreet andhasroomsof asimilar GardenResort,asister property, Coral Seas units.Thepoolhasabar.suites orclifftop fully equippedapartments,twohoneymoon fromroomswithverandas,You canchoose place inagardenof bambooand hibiscus. well-run optionisasequestered beachside r US$90-120,studioUS$125,aptUS$95-140; in theUSA environment. the ious BlueFlagawardforMerril’s attention to beach here accordedtheprestig- hasbeen is popularwithEuropeantourgroups.The It offers water sportsandabeach bar,and landscaped grounds.Allroomshave verandas. place has28roomsinatwo-storyunitlush per personbeachsidetr/d/sUS$88/103/124; perpersongardensidetr/d/sUS$60/75/90, .merrilsbeach.com; pastels dominate andlend achic warmth. cottages withgingerbread trimandfretwork; down cold.Onoffer are 14air-con wooden crazy charmer hasthatmellowNegril vibe cottagesUS$165-185; .countrynegril.com; Country TOP END Irie on the Beach. restaurant andapopularbar, has aseafront ers, fullyequippedkitchenettes andJacuzzi. It French DVDandCDplay- doors, satellite TV, uptosixandfeaturesleep marblefloors, one-andtwo-bedroomvillasthat octagonal small poolandJacuzzi. Youcanalsochoose and beachfront roomsclustered arounda owned Village offers well-appointed studios an arrayof indigenous fruit trees, thefamily- environment. Gracedbywalkwayslinedwith the attests toitscommitmentpreserving Greenficient hotel GlobeCertification whose US$210/245; Legends BeachResort BeachResort Coral Seas BeachResort Merril’s o % Rondel Village ais 800-223-6510; www.coralseasnegril.com; 800-223-6510; www.coralseasnegril.com; ) Thisbeachfront resort offers 49

Mp p225; (Map Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ) Highly affable andef- affable Highly Mp p225; (Map

Mp p225; (Map

Mp p225; (Map Mp p225; (Map % 876-957-4273; www % a 957-4751; www a Thiscolor- % % % ) s Ashort ) 957-3834; 957-4413; 957-9226, ) This NEGRIL & WEST COAST )

231 957-4314, in pas % 957-4408, in the 957-4408, in the 957-4403, in the USA % 957-5170; www.point % This conscientious ) % The place to stay if The place to stay if (Map p225 ;

as (Map p225 ;

(Map p225 ;

Similar to Nirvana, this family-run ) Point Village Whistling Bird Negril Gardens Nirvana on the Beach A family-friendly hotel at Rutland Point, with hotel A family-friendly one- to three-bed- refurbished 175 recently in Mediterranean- with kitchens room suites through 6 style limestone villas scattered shoreline wave-pounded The hotel’s hectares. (one for nudes) beaches holds pocket-sized tification, offering 65 nicely appointed rooms 65 nicely appointed tification, offering with balco- two-story cottages in gaily colored across situated rooms are nies. Garden-view the road. ALL-INCLUSIVES nights, all- for three below are Prices quoted double occupancy during the high inclusive season (December 15 to April 15); low-sea- Rates can be considerably lower. son rates guidelines; they vary consid- are presented booking, erably depending on the source of for gen- p275 See specials. season and current resorts all-inclusive eral information about in Jamaica. village.com; d US$960-1020 ste US$1110-1380; has a king-sized bed, dining room, kitchen room, kitchen has a king-sized bed, dining windows. Meals wraparound and screened on request. prepared 303-442-0722; www.negriljamaica.com/whistlingbird; s/d/tr person per day from US$125; US$140/210/315, all-inclusive per pa bungalows and cot- place has 24 rooms in decor and wicker wood-accented with tages Each with phone and is equipped furniture. place to relax and a great It’s low-key cable TV. It has a restaurant beneath shady bamboo. bar. beach and USA 305-284-1300, in the UK 0207-259-1840; www.negril gardenside s/d/tr US$126/142/173, beachside gardens.com; s/d/tr US$147/163/184; Run by a Jamaican–French couple, Daniel and Daniel and couple, a Jamaican–French Run by a Spanish spot resembles this engaging Sylvie, The 49 surrounds a courtyard. hacienda and with lots decor contemporary rooms feature fans, hair-dryers, hardwood, plus ceiling of onsite or patios. The and balconies telephones the finest is one of restaurant Le Vendôme on Negril. the USA 716-789-5955; www.nirvananegril.com; d cottage US$190-205, ste US$210-225) seekingyou’re meditation, with one-, two- set cottages in Zen-like and three-bedroom tropical gardens. Each all-hardwood cabin resort proudly displays its Green Globe cer- proudly displays its Green resort ) )

) 957- % 957-4170; pai % pai 957-4287; www pais

(Map p225 ; % NEGRIL •• Sleeping 957-9566, 877-243-5352; 957-9566, 877-243-5352; (Map p225 ;

957-4277; www.charela.com; 957-4277; www.charela.com; % % 957-4358; www.jamaicalink.com; (Map p225 ;

% (Map p225 ;

(Map p225 ; This unpretentious resort is a is a resort This unpretentious A refined choice where nudists nudists where choice A refined This family-run hotel on the beach on the beach This family-run hotel ) ) ) (Map ; p225

Beachcomber Club & Spa Charela Inn Negril Tree House Foote Prints on the Sands Hotel Firefly Idle Awhile s US$155-186, d US$174-212, tr US$218; veranda. The beachside bar is popular. Water Water bar is popular. The beachside veranda. has a tour and the resort offered, sports are and manicurist. masseuse desk, gift store, one- and two-bedroom suites each feature feature each suites one- and two-bedroom king-sized bed and a Murphy kitchenette, opens onto a wide which bed in the lounge, oceanfront villas nudging pleasingly up to the Eachbeach. has a TV elegant More and a safe. pas for its 16 octagonal bungalows and favorite .negril-treehouse.com; r US$150-170, ste US$275-350; .negril-treehouse.com; r US$150-170, ste US$275-350; onsite restaurant and bar, Jacuzzi, tour desk, tour desk, and bar, Jacuzzi, restaurant onsite and excursions. sports water telephone and safe. Some have ceiling fans have Some and safe. telephone include an balconies. Facilities and most have pai 30 rooms, studios (with kitchenettes) offers apartments with TV,and some two-bedroom 4300; www.footeprintshotel.com; s US$135-145, d US$165; ing fans, telephone and satellite TV; and satellite ing fans, telephone and suites kitchenettes. have apartments sports. All rooms are well furnished, with ceil- well furnished, sports. All rooms are some 45-room hotel has an open-air beach- some 45-room hotel Gambino’s, plus a nightly side restaurant, and water tennis entertainment schedule, Operating with crisp efficiency, this hand- www.beachcomberclub.com; r US$150-175, 1-bedroom r US$150-175, 1-bedroom www.beachcomberclub.com; apt US$220, 2-bedroom apt US$350-375; all-hardwood cottages, plus one-bedroom stu- plus one-bedroom all-hardwood cottages, dios, apartments and penthouse Each suites. and ve- kitchenettes have but all is different free guests get and a Jacuzzi, randas. There’s Away’s facilities. access to Couples Swept pai four handsome, offers dwell in style, Firefly studio/cottage US$137/175, ste US$180-200, apt US$176-255; studio/cottage US$137/175, ste US$180-200, dishes and fresh juices are served juices are dishes and fresh beachside beneath umbrellas. free access to Couples Swept Away’s sport access to Couples Swept Away’s sport free seafood,complex (p232). Snacks, Jamaican temporary vogue and tropical decor. There’s There’s and tropical decor. vogue temporary allowed and guests are network, a wireless ommended for its eightommended delightfully airy, con- with suites and five rooms appointed www.idleawhile.com; r US$190, ste US$230-305; www.idleawhile.com; is highly rec- boutique hotel This exquisite Some have king-sized beds and separate and separate beds king-sized have Some sitting areas. Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book NEGRIL & WEST COAST as .sunsetatthepalms.com; dUS$1500-2100,steUS$1275-1800; this 8-hectare deluxe propertysprawlsover % that boasts theisland’sbest-equipped sports magnificent all-inclusive, adults-onlyresort www.couples.com; dUS$1600-2150; entertainment. and ofcourts, discoandaselection restaurants ness center andspa,tennis courts,volleyball afullarrayofbeach section, water sports,fit- safes andminibars. Theresort features a nude in-room pastels. Theroomshave satellite TV, tastefully contemporary, featuring Caribbean the budget-minded crowd.Room decoris 420-room behemothoffers goodvaluefor dUS$1464-1794; www.riu.com; free. stays males thanfemales; athirdfemale inagroup Guestsincludemanymore single the roof). withglass-bottomeda disco(inset Jacuzzi in climbing wall,ice-skatingrinkand,of course, for nudesandtheother‘prudes,’arock- a turn-off. There are twofinebeaches –one Sadly, thestrange retro decorissomewhatof rooms andsuites withmirrored ceilings. thisadults-onlyresorttackiness), has280 lingerie parties(andnotoriousforitssheer Famous foritsrisquéattitudeandweekly .com/brand_hedonism; dUS$925-1975; bathrooms. marble tion, plusvilla-suites withloft bedroomsand in graciouscottages withEdwardiandecora- egories, includingexquisite honeymoonsuites happy guests.There are 227roomsinsixcat- is ahuge poolwithswim-upbarabuzz with wide lawnstrimmedtoperfection. Atitsnode pais cuisine. Apathleadsto the beach. top-notch and romanticrestaurant serving court plusgamesroom,Jacuzzi, swim-upbar Facilities includeafitnesscenter andtennis allroomshave safes.Superior roomshave TV; decor features leathersofas rugs. andChinese grounds fullof croakingtree frogs.Interior onstiltsamidlush Thai-style cabinsraised jungle atmosphere. Ithas86all-hardwood, bicycle rides are included. andguided sports, picnictripstoBooby Cay and coolingpoolscutintothecoral.Water 232 Couples SweptAway TropicalBayResort Riu Hedonism II &Spa BeachResort Sandals Negril Sunset atthePalms 957-5216; www.sandals.com; dUS$1000-1250; ERL • leig NEGRIL ••Sleeping ) Anecoconsciousresort withheapsof )

Mp p225; (Map Atasteful couples-onlyresort,

Mp p225; (Map % Mp p225; (Map

Mp p225; (Map 957-5070; www.superclubs pais pais % pais 957-5350; www % %

Mp p225; (Map 957-4061; 957-5900; ) This ) A )

www.grandlido.com; dUS$1780-2900; pais .beaches.com; dUS$2000-2750,steUS$2940-6390; including beach volleyball. fered agamesroomandorganized activities, bedroom villas.Children andteensare of- and villas.Onoffer are alsosuites andone- rooms inthree-story accommodationsblocks on about3hectares includes130attractive property,thisfamily-friendly option spiffy .beaches.com; dUS$1650-1850; ronmentally sound upkeep. the prestigious BlueFlagawardforitsenvi- accorded hasbeen The beach onBloodyBay bathroom withJacuzzi andhis-and-hers sinks. oh-so-chic furniture. Thesuites have avast darkbambooand fabrics, iridescentcurtains, pleasingly hip,appointed withrichly colored of the7-hectare resort. The216roomsare lobby opensover awidepoolattheheart that thecompanyterms ‘NegrilChic.’The property boastsclassycontemporary decor .com; dUS$1550-2950; included. is windows. Free golfatNegrilHillsGolfClub floors, deep-red hardwoodsandvastlouvered tile in 26two-storyvillasandboastterra-cotta heliconias tothe134suites, which are housed 8-hectare rush-hourof botanical ferns and Guests get access to Sandals Negril(left). gigantic pooland plenty of facilitiesforkids. ings inquasi-Spanish haciendastyle. Ithasa 215 rooms,including 39juniorsuite build- furniturewrought-iron andlanterns. Ithas bles acastle,withthicklimestone walls, resem-lies, singlesandcouples.Itloosely all-inclusive resort, thisonecaters tofami- from Aristotle Onassis. andGraceKellyding gifttoPrinceRainer Zien, sports isoffered, asare aboardM/Y cruises of restaurants. several Afullrange of water 24-hour bars withJacuzzis. Take yourpick which feature ninebars, includingthree are spread 9hectares through of gardens, with whirlpool)mezzaninebedrooms suites juniorsuites andsplit-level (some chain. The210spacious,tastefully furnished property istheflagshipof theSuperClubs Boasting Mediterranean flair,thissprawling and fitnessfacility.Pathways an coilthrough Grand LidoNegril Beaches SandyBay Couples Negril Beaches Negril a147ftmotoryacht thatwasawed- ) Another impressive Sandals

Mp p225; (Map Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

pais Mp p225; (Map

Mp p225 ; (Map

Mp p225; (Map pais % 957-5960; www.couples % % Thisattractive ) pais 957-9270; www 957-5100; www % Another 957-5010; ) )

NEGRIL & WEST COAST

) A ) 233 as pa 876 481 0157; 957-4409; www 957-9224; www 957-9224; % % % 957-0382; www.negril.com 957-4329; www.heartbeat % % Not really a yacht club, a yacht Not really (Map pp222-3 ;

(Map pp222-3 ; A peaceful and delightful (Map ; pp222-3 ) pi (Map pp222-3 ; (Map pp222-3 ; Another terrific bargain, this quaint this quaint bargain, Another terrific Negril Yacht Club Negril Yacht LTU Villas LTU Wendy Lindo’s B&B Summerset Village Set about 300m inland on 3 hectares of land- Set of hectares about 300m inland on 3 jamaica.com; studio US$44-95, duplex cottage US$55-110, jamaica.com; house US$147; the cliffs option on the top of with thatched, all-hardwood octagonal cabins on pillars. You can also choose from self-sufficient studio apartments, a house sleeping eight and They priced duplex cottage. an attractively [email protected]; Beaver Ave; d incl breakfast d incl breakfast [email protected]; Beaver Ave; US$70) guest house about 9km south can be found Negril off William Hogg Blvd. Wendy, of three Scilly, offers an expat from the Isles of in her charming a bath) rooms (two share atop a England built house – a little piece of cottage coral outcrop with ocean views. Her and porce- couches antiques, cozy is full of pri- The clean, airy rooms have lain china. windows patios, ceiling fans, screened vate of- Wendy’s husband, John, and hot water. a taxi servicefers is There and island tours. minimum stay. a two-night MIDRANGE Heartbeat condo-style unit; eight rooms in a ‘chateau’; condo-style unit; eight rooms in a ‘chateau’; octagonal cottages; one- and two-bedroom House’ ‘Thatch with a and a five-bedroom by can also be rented which and kitchen, suite a shuttle to the the room. Summerset offers and bar. a restaurant There’s beach. US$65/50; /ltu/villas; villas with/without air-con on the West End with 10 bargain tremendous ceiling spacious, pleasant rooms with fridges, Each furnished is tastefully fans and cable TV. with two double beds and comfortable wicker rooms with The upstairs and chairs. couches preferred. dark wood cathedral ceilings are tak- Most guests quickly fall into the habit of Pub (p238). LTU ing their meals at .negrilyacht.com; r US$55-70) rooms 16 no-frills offers hotel this waterfront The open-air bar fea- cable TV. with fans and beerin town. It’s a little the cheapest tures boasts a semi-privatetimeworn, but beach, West End. on the an anomaly .summersetvillage.net; Rd; r US$40-50, 1-/2- Summerset House US$200; bedroom cottage US$40/80, Thatch casual offers scaped grounds, this property seclusion. In addition to standard rooms, ‘superior’ rooms in a 10 air-con are there

This spe- ) This old This old 957-0252; sef@ p

957-4052; cottages % NEGRIL •• Sleeping % 898-6349; d/tr US$40/55) % 957-4442; www.miyard.com; With 24/7 internet ac- With 24/7 internet 957-0155, 866-4592; tobynegril@957-0155, 866-4592; ) % % (Map ; pp222-3 ; (Map pp222-3 ; you can expect to find muddy, you can expect ai Four six-person cottages with cottages Four six-person (Map ; pp222-3 (Map pp222-3 ;

(Map pp222-3 (Map

Lighthouse Inn

Mi Yard Mi 22 Westend Lighthouse Park cess and yummy meals servedcess till all hours, four simple, little place offers this agreeable with balconies. – two have air-con – and two no-frills yet yet – and two no-frills air-con – two have wooden Caribbean-stylecharming cottages clean, albeit somewhat dark, tiled rooms clean, albeit somewhat dark, tiled rooms s/d/tr US$50/60/70; lighthouse has two bedrooms fan-cooled bath, alfresco shared ventilation, with cross The live-in shower and communal kitchen. from the veggies owner cooks with organic room can garden. It’s good for groups; each people. three hold For a homey experience this friendly and For a homey experience this friendly and accommodating little guest house near the candlelit dining. windows and wicker furniture. It has a free It has a free furniture. windows and wicker offering shuttle, plus a restaurant beach kitchenettes, solar-heated water, louvered louvered water, solar-heated kitchenettes, able, perched on the cliffable, perched affording excellent sea views. The place draws rootsy artist types Prices customers. repeat and enjoys frequent are negotiable. with kitchenette and two rooms. All the ac- with kitchenette and comfort- charming commodations are and-concrete cottages with private bathrooms with private cottages and-concrete an apartment suite also There’s and verandas. elements. With great resilience, the owners the owners resilience, elements. With great with two wood- the property restored have favorite south of the lighthouse suffered a the lighthouse a south of suffered favorite the Ivan and all of body blow from Hurricane cabins succumbed to the bamboo-and-thatch cwjamaica.com; cabins/cottages US$45/120) cwjamaica.com; Hills. A housekeeper comes daily and can Hills. A housekeeper and can comes daily on request. cook meals There’s a communal kitchen and a truly rad a communal kitchen There’s the Negril deck with sweeping views over roof and equipped with mosquito netting with netting with and equipped with mosquito abound. windows. Hammocks screened ing here. There are four rooms with double are There ing here. is fan-cooled each beds and one with bunks; haven. Ashaven. such, sorts bunk- and other agreeable gnarly bikers cial housesome might – – is the call it a castle X-Cellent Rusty’s Rusty Jones of of creation biking mountain- Negril’s premier Adventures, Treetops dm US$15, d US$45; hotmail.com; Hilton Ave; West End End West BUDGET Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book s/d/q US$35/50/60) NEGRIL & WEST COAST 9125; cottageUS$80) .bluecavecastle.com; s/dUS$75/120; cent toTensing Pen isanidealprivate spot bills itself as ‘the meeting placeof as‘themeeting thegods.’ bills itself pais personUS$25; .com; rUS$83-90,cottages US$210,extra descends to the sea. bed. Fromawidesunnyveranda astairway feemaker, ceilingfan,andadoublesingle cof- hascableTV, views. Each glorious sea roomswithwide doorspleasant openingto alded gem offers spacious,exceedingly bright, s/d/trUS$80/100/120; lightvilla.com; by pastels. Tremendous value. and sundeck,acheerful ambience colored cooled one-bedroom nesthasakitchenette A veritable homeawayfromhome,thefan- toget agroovefor thecoupleseeking on. breakfast. include phonesare providedCell forguestsandrates and bicyclesforrent (US$8/30perhour/day). in thelushgarden,plusafree beach shuttle safes. Ithasarestaurant andswim-upbar coffeemakers andments withsatellite TV, Jamaican couple. Itoffers deluxe studioapart- modern placeisrunbyacharming Canadian– inn.com; s/dUS$69/129; castle leaddowntoa blue cave. include air-con andcableTV. Stairs fromthe andsuperiorrooms rooms opentothesea CD player,ceilingfanandrefrigerator; tower isequippedwitha but inagoodway.Each freethinkers. The14bedroomsare cavelike, coction attractsnudists,travel junkiesand West End,thisatmospheric,all-stonecon- modate upto six people. cabins includeloft bedrooms;onecanaccom- sundeck andfreshwater shower. Twoof the cave descendingtoasea with matic stairway mocks andkitchenette. Step outsidetoadra- and Haitian art,each hasaceilingfan,ham- homey. Tastefully decorated withJamaican cabins perched over are thesea offbeatand cheerful green turf,these andorangeclifftop pi www.bananashout.com; 1-/2-/4-personcabinsUS$80/150/200; of theunits have kitchenettes. capture lotsof andhave light terraces. Some 234 perhaps thebestviewof fromthe LongBay Xtabi Moonlight Villa o Sundown Cottage Inn Seastar Castle Blue Cave NEGRIL ••Sleeping ) Occupyingaparticularlychoice bitof (Map (Map pp222-3 ; Banana Shout Mp pp222-3; (Map ) Thischic andcasualhotel (Map pp222-3; (Map Thisbeguilingcottage adja- Mp pp222-3; (Map Mp pp222-3; (Map pas %

(Map (Map pp222-3 957-0121; www.xtabi-negril % % 957-0553; www.seastar pa p 957-4838; www.moon ) % Thispeaceful % ) Thisunher- 957-4845; www ; 361-1401, 990- ) % Providing 957-0384; www.coralseasnegril.com; s/dUS$70/60,studioUS$70/80; www.coralseasnegril.com; plan is available. concerts onthesundeck.Anall-inclusive happyhourandoccasionallivedaily sunset is alsoonsite (see p227 ). Thebar hostsa diving center withmultilingualdive masters pillars nearthewater’s edge. APADI scuba- and cottages, pluscharming hutsonstone estly furnished rooms(somewithair-con) as rUS$85-95,pillarhouseUS$110; .negrilhotels.com/samsara; decks overhanging the teal-blue waters. restaurant, aJacuzzi andmulti-tiered sun- private showers. Itfeatures barand aclifftop suites, allwithprivate balconies,fansand with12roomsplustwo another cliffhanger r US$110,steUS$175-$250,penthouseUS$225; the USA800-925-7418;www.homesweethomeresort.com; hour). per of 15are free. Massage isoffered (US$40 Childrenbuilt intothecliff. undertheage appealing.Ithassunningplatforms taurant nothing fancy.Thebarislively andtheres- They’rethe cliff. pleasinglyappointed, if bungalowsperched atop seafront octagonal rooms, simplegardencottages orquaint ting istrulydivine. from Youcanchoose Its clientele isdecidedlyhuman,buttheset- as well abar and restaurant. andJacuzzi.enette, TV There’s asmall beach patios withhammocks. Asuite hasakitch- Rooms are adequately appointed andhave inhandsomegrounds. units set self-catering furbishing. Itoffers 13clean,well-appointed giventhis old-timerhasbeen awelcomere- Blvd, Near thejunctionwithWilliamHogg r/ste/villa US$69/99/119; .westenderinn.com; pools, one saltwater. and akitchenette. Drumvillealsoboaststwo cabins, each withfourbeds(twoinaloft) cally landscaped.There are alsothree cozy as .com/dcmain; rwith/withoutair-conUS$75/65,cabinUS$75; and barare in well-tended grounds. degreea high of comfort.Theairyrestaurant but overall it’sawell-runoperationoffering sonality thantheirWestEndcounterparts, have lessper-nished roomsandcableTV sa and romantic,thepropertyisdramati- CliffResort Coral Seas Samsara Hotel Home Sweet Westender Inn Westender Drumville Cove ) ) ) Thispopularoptionoffers 50mod- Its14roomsare crampedbutclean elegantvillaswithnicelyfur- These

Mp pp222-3; (Map Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Mp pp222-3; (Map Mp pp222-3; (Map Mp pp222-3; (Map Mp pp222-3; (Map % % % 957-4369; www.negril % 957-4395; www 957-4991; www % pas 957-4478, in s 957-3147, ) Yet Yet )

NEGRIL & WEST COAST 957- 235 % 957-4997, % 957-0269, in the 957-0269, in the ) One of the more the more One of % (Map pp222-3 ; This tranquil op-

) pi (Map pp222-3 ; s

(Map pp222-3 ;

Perhaps the finest boutique boutique the finest Perhaps ) Caves o Jackie’s on the Reef Llantrissant Beach House ceiling fans and mosquito nets over the king- the ceiling fans and mosquito nets over exquisite have or queen-sized beds. Many wind down to a free- Paths outside showers. studding the rock face, and then form Jacuzzi you can where benches with molded to a cave the waves of to the reverberations meditate spa treatments are offered. There’s a small There’s offered. are spa treatments cooling pool set top. The facility reef in the might rustic than the rates suggest. is more dinner and exercise Rates include breakfast, and massage) are (lunch class. Day packages to nonguests. offered cavesresort.com; cottage US$1995-2085; 3 nights all-inclusive pais helicop- whom are (some of Hollywood elite 10 handcrafted, offers in), the Caves tered individually styled one- and two-bedroom set cottages gardens wood-and-thatch in lush cliffs. Rooms feature the cave-riddled above hand-carvedexquisite batik fabrics, furniture, one-of-a-kind art, CD player with CDs, plus louvered windows – comes fully staffed and louvered TV,includes satellite A and fax access. stereo enhance beaches court and two private tennis based calculated on Ratesthe experience. are overall occupancy. in the USA 718-469-2785; www.jackiesonthereef.com; r or cottage per person US$175; the Negril roundabout, tion is 11km south of with William the intersection just north of haven Hogg New Age as a Blvd. It operates A natural stone focusing on spiritual renewal. with is divided into four rooms, each ‘temple’ two handmade wooden beds and an outdoor shower and bathroom enclosed within your given are backyard. Massages own private meditation, and tai and on a veranda, chi though in otherwise rooms differ markedly Each with a fridge. is equipped cottage decor. Negril’s best cui- meals – perhaps Guests take inspired structure extravagant sine – in an hunting South African of by the architecture included in is Continental breakfast lodges. the rates. in the USA 800-331-6951; www.beachcliff 4259, 305-321-7458, .com; 1-11 people US$530-600; options, this century-old two-story, charming a point near the on home rests four-bedroom houseroundabout. The vintage – simply yet furnished, with ceiling fans and exquisitely hotel in Jamaica, and one beloved of the the of and one beloved in Jamaica, hotel USA 800-688-7678, in the UK 0800-688-76781; www.the )

) 957- The The ) pi % pais 957-0387; www.ten 957-0390; www.catcha 957-0390; NEGRIL •• Sleeping (Map pp222-3 ; 957-4373; www.rockhouse % % pais % (Map pp222-3 ; (Map pp222-3 ;

(Map pp222-3 ; Tensing Pen Tensing Negril Escape Resort & Spa Rockhouse have exquisite bamboo and hardwood details, exquisite have to be associated with the West End – perched with the West End – perched to be associated the coral cliffs in natural gardens. All above cottages on a hectare of land. Most are ‘pillar are land. Most of on a hectare cottages style that has come houses’ – an architectural Among the more acclaimed places is this acclaimed places is this Among the more option with 12 thatched tranquil, reclusive Negril Scuba Centre round out the property. Negril Scuba Centre round out singpen.com; cottages US$295-539, per week US$960-3060) Atlantis features mermaids on its murals. A A mermaids on its murals. Atlantis features the of branch hopping bar and an onsite Morocco; the paper lanterns and bamboo and bamboo Morocco; the paper lanterns East; hint at the Far Oriental Express blinds of style pillows and terra-cotta accents, suggests accents, suggests style pillows and terra-cotta 0392; www.negrilescape.com; d US$180-300, s US$170-290, tr US$220-340, ste US$ 490-580; where Jamaican films are frequently shown. frequently films are Jamaican where the cliffs. Spa services, (US$70 per massage of-hour) and daily yoga classes (US$20) are screen a projection there’s In the lounge fered. restaurants around; p238) overhanging the around; p238) overhanging restaurants ocean. A dramatically designed pool sits atop level dining pavilion (with one of the best the best (with one of level dining pavilion ceiling fan, refrigerator, safe, minibar, alfresco minibar, alfresco safe, ceiling fan, refrigerator, Catwalks shower and wraparound veranda. the rocks to an open-sided, multi- lead over romantic, with net-draped poster beds and poster romantic, with net-draped strong Caribbean Each cabin has a colors. cliffside above a small cove. Decor is basic yet Decor is basic a small cove. cliffside above well-run hotels, with 13 thatched rondavels rondavels with 13 thatched well-run hotels, pine and stone, villas’) of ‘premium (two are clinging to the plus 15 studios dramatically hotel.com; r/studio/villa US$150/175/325; hotel.com; r/studio/villa US$150/175/325; and the West End’s most beautiful One of cove. Popular masseuse her Oezcan Oya offers cove. per hour). services (US$70 here affordsclothing- easy access to the sea, where enjoyed in a private optional bathing can be delivered to your veranda and is included in and is included in to your veranda delivered cliff A tiered other meals by request. the rates; beds draped in mosquito netting. Breakfast is in mosquito netting. Breakfast beds draped with two bedrooms – sit on the cliffs.with two bedrooms Each comes an astrological sign and is named for bar and double fridge, oven, with microwave jamaica.com; 1-/2-bedroom cottage US$135/250; cottage US$135/250; 1-/2-bedroom jamaica.com; In the inimitable West End style, these pleas- several – including cottages ant fan-cooled TOP END TOP END Star Catcha Falling Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book 10 spacious cottages here are named and named and are here 10 spacious cottages ‘ethnic’ theme: with a different decorated with its Arabian- Romancing the Kasbah, NEGRIL & WEST COAST Renowned foritspinkgnocchi inaparme- concerts, those intheknowswearbyitsjerk concerts, those Village isthe Sunrise Club;mainsUS$8-22; Sunrise o MIDRANGE visitors. and a jazzbandthatdrawsmixed crowdof locals cheese-and-vegetable Sundays see quesadilla. burgers, the though coffee. Thelunch menufeatures and salads pancakes, killersmoothiesandhand-roasted omelettes,for thecallalooandcheese banana fast spotthatenjoysmanyrepeat customers h you waitfor a show. and wellcomplemented byaRedStripeas chicken. isthickandpaste-like, Thesauce 7) chicken and lobster. fillings rangingfromackee and veggies to time’) Sonia’s BUDGET Long Bay End Rdis the bestof smallgroceriesalongWest several dotNormanManleySmall grocerystalls Blvd; % ian fare.(I-tal) pizzaandplentyoffind ispasta, goodvegetar- clude crab pickledinred to peppers. Easier in- mushroom omelettes andganjamuffins) and Ocean Dr. Rd road, variouslyWestEndRd,Lighthouse and all‘WestEnd’eateries are onthecoast restaurantsBay’ are onNormanManley Blvd precautions. noted, all‘Long Unlessotherwise health running water –take allcommonsense havemeals. Somefoodstands noaccessto around WestEndoffer budget snacksand andonthecoastroad eateries alongLongBay anywhere in Jamaica. else Asurplus of rustic Negril hasmore eclecticdiningoptionsthan EATING include allmealsand bar. self-service There’s plusanAveda also asauna, spa. Rates (or have dinnerifyouorderadayinadvance). 236 Though it’sbestknownforitslive Though reggae Selina’s Bourbon Beach A fullystocked grocerystore inNegril Local delicacies(besideshallucinogenic breakfast, lunch&dinner) 957-4546) Serving MissSonia’suniquepattieswith Serving NEGRIL ••Eating

Mp p2 mis US$4-12; mains p225; (Map Lobster House Lobster

DJ’s Place Mp p225; (Map , totherear of SunshineVillage. Hi-Lo Supermarket Hi-Lo Mp p225; (Map

Mp pp222-3; (Map % pièce derésistance

An outstanding break- Anoutstanding h Mp p225; (Map 957-9519; mainsUS$5-12; % breakfast, lunch&dinner) 957-4405; mainsUS$2- h % 5:30am until‘any-

Mp pp222-3; (Map % 957-0943) 957-4293; isthe .

Gino Travaini proudly serves fresh pasta Gino Travaini proudlyserves fare beachside inasecluded gardensetting and homemadebread Italian plusdelectable mains US$14-15; pizzas. and such asdeep-fried lobster niblets,sandwiches platter withicecream. Italsohassnackfoods blanket’ (pancakes andafruit andsausage) menu thatincludesabreakfast of ‘pigsina withavaried (lit bybrasslanterns atnight) a bamboo-and-thatch two-storyrestaurant 24; simmering onthe back burner. of curriedgoatoroxtail thatisperpetually Brown, isalsouniversally forthepot saluted or anchoring aheartysoup.Yourhost,Cosmo the specialtyhere, whethersteamed, curried Park.areas Beach Conch nearLongBay is vorite withthree thatched bars anddining h tage 1961Faema espresso machine. on theisland,madefromproprietor’svin- for acupof whatisarguably the best espresso Many,pizza withlobster tails. come however, proof, Aragosta – ifyouneed trytheQueen of itthestatus bestpizzeriaintown brought this congenial outdoorspot’sbrickoven has creamsan anditssignature lobster dishes, escaped the hypesurrounding herKingston linary empire, tohave thisNorma’s seems of NormaShirley’s celebrated Jamaican cu- mainsUS$13-28; Resort; Norma’s ontheBeach TOP END ahead for takeout. as slicedduckwithginger andscallion. Call of dishesing awideselection such Chinese ing meal,headtothiscandlelitoption serv- Country; mainsUS$6-18; fra diavolo. are andlobster thepollo marsala, jerksalmon chickensalad, andfish. Amongthehighlights food fromamenudividedintopizza,pasta, a sliceof thebeach features excellentItalian stairs restaurant withaveranda overlooking mains US$8-14; recommended. Reservations linguine,scaloppiniandlobster.seafood with fouropenpavilions. Specialtiesinclude Da Gino’s Jamaica Tamboo Cosmo’s Hunan Garden Angela’s h breakfast, lunch&dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner)

(Map (Map p225 ; (Map (Map p225 ; Mp p225; (Map h

h breakfast, lunch&dinner)

Mp p225; (Map

Mp p225; (Map breakfast, lunch&dinner) (Map (Map p225 ; h h % % % dinner) Asteadfast beach fa- lunch &dinner) 957-4918; Mariposa Hideaway; Hideaway; 957-4918; Mariposa 957-9793; Bar-B-BarnHotel; 957-4784; mainsUS$5-18; NearKuyaba,thisis % The Negrilbranch % % 957-4282; mainsUS$6- lonelyplanet.com 957-4369; Country 957-4041; Sea Splash 957-4041; Sea Forafill- This up- Host

NEGRIL & WEST COAST

957- 237 % they’re hal- they’re This large, This large, 464-2720; mains 464-2720; mains noon-midnight) 889-3109; mains 889-3109; mains Aptly named, Aptly named, % h 957-9217; Sheffield Rd; Two kilo meters meters Two kilo % 957-0188; mains US$4- (Map pp222-3 ;

957-4442; mains US$2-7; % This simple shack This simple shack % % (Map pp222-3 ;

(Map pp222-3 ; 6:30am-midnight)

(Map pp222-3 ;

(Map pp222-3 ; lunch & dinner) h It also serves well-priced standard (Map pp222-3 ; 3 Dives Jerk Centre h breakfast, lunch & dinner) breakfast,

This economical choice provides a a provides This economical choice h breakfast, lunch & dinner Sun-Fri)breakfast, This welcoming roadside I-tal eatery is roadside I-tal This welcoming eatery 24hr) h Sips & Bites Mi Yard Erica’s Place Miss Brown’s o Serious Chicken mains US$4-28; roundabout, this place serves the east of omelettes ‘mushroom daiquiris,’ mushroom Be tea. and mushroom warned – lucinogenic. Jamaican dishes. to spontaneously and you can sip combust, a on the cliffs Red Stripe cheap at the end of the annual of small garden. This is also the site ). p18 ( Festival Negril Jerk h and ackee spot with omelettes, good breakfast Later in the day saltfish and other hearty fare. – and all night long – the classic Jamaican brown-stewed fish and chips, menu features Dine in the garden or fish and fried chicken. shady patio. on a US$2.50-15; serv- has a long history of for its lobster noted The stewed fare. Jamaican ing good, cheap highly recommended. is chicken 20; serveswelcoming open-air restaurant classic curried goat, including oxtail, fare Jamaican Wash steaks. and conch lobster brown stew special natural juice. it down with the day’s Starting bright and early, hearty Jamaican served.are breakfasts 0845; quarter/half chicken US$4/7; that its jerk to 3 Dives It’s no small tribute for lengthy waits its reputation overshadows the an hour). Fortunately, (sometimes over to let you peek than happy into more are chefs bound to be a pile of there’s where the kitchen, threatening bonnet peppers Scotch super-hot ner) Rastafarians with local popular those and wisdom. collect their pearls of who come to – is served vegetarian – strictly The fare on to make sure you are simple tables where passersby. juices The inquisitive friends with good. especially are US$2-6; is devotedthis friendly roadside spot to the bird, serving it up in salads, curries stews, hut. You in a thatched and barbecue dishes and if you stick around can’t go wrong here, to join a bound to be invited at night you’re dominoes. of game

957- break- % 957-4621; and es- 957-4318; 957-4318; h

This for- This un- % % (Map pp222-3 ; (Map p225 ;

957-4648; Charela Inn; Inn; 957-4648; Charela breakfast, lunch & din- breakfast, lunch & dinner) breakfast, lunch & dinner) breakfast, % (Map p225 ; h

(Map pp222-3 ; h

h duck à l’orange duck à l’orange breakfast, lunch & dinner) lunch & dinner) breakfast, NEGRIL •• Eating This highly ranked restaurant restaurant This highly ranked (Map p225 ; p225 (Map h

775-0386; mains US$4-7; Gambino’s Italian Restaurant

Royal Kitchen Vegetarian Café Kuyaba on the Beach Le Vendôme there are plenty of fruit juices. plenty of are there includes curried goat and fish, conch steak steak includes curried goat and fish, conch is served No alcohol and pepper steak. but by locals. Portions are heaped, prices are in- heaped, prices are by locals. Portions are and the food authentic. The menu expensive assuming bright-blue clapboard houseassuming bright-blue is a among several authentic Jamaican favorite frequented in Sheffield Rd that are restaurants Sweet Spice Restaurant Sheffield Rd; mains US$3-16; West End West End BUDGET range of pasta dishes, a great pepper steak, pepper steak, pasta a great dishes, of range with cakes and pumpkin or the Cuban crab papaya mustard. sandwiches, plus superb pepper shrimp. sandwiches, plus superb pepper shrimp. a wide menu offers For dinner the changing restaurant and heaps of ambience. The lunch The lunch ambience. and heaps of restaurant and gourmet kebabs burgers, menu features language, which is exactly what happens here happens here is exactly what which language, beach evening at sunset.each This perennial open-air for its thatched is well loved favorite The name means ‘Celebrate!’ in the Arawak Margaritaville next door. Margaritaville The fettuccine with lobster is good enough with lobster to The fettuccine from distract you from the noise drifting over classics, many seasoned with Jamaican spices. many seasonedclassics, with Jamaican fast, lunch & dinner) deck on the sand across a capacious spread serves pasta and other Italian of a wide range – or curried goat if you prefer Jamaican fare. Jamaican prefer – or curried goat if you five-course gourmet dinner (US$26 to US$39) gourmet five-course cargots Burgundy style, or regional creations creations style, or regional Burgundy cargots with locally snapper, all prepared baked like a daily and spices. There’s grown vegetables pleasantand choose garden view from classic like dishes French gourmet cuisine can also be healthful. Take be healthful. Take gourmet cuisine can also with a your table terrace on the terra-cotta mains US$30-42; mains US$30-42; that is living proof restaurant mal French more burger and tuna-melt oriented. and burger more turous. Expect to find the likes of lobster, lobster, of turous. Expect to find the likes and pasta as hen, jerk chicken Cornish game ‘rasta are pasta.’ Lunches well as tricolored flagship. The ‘new world Caribbean’ The ‘new flagship. at food just as adven- is restaurant beach this stylish lonelyplanet.com Kuyaba; mains US$18-30; % 4170; Beachcomber Club & Spa; mains US$10-25; 4170; Beachcomber Club & Spa; NEGRIL & WEST COAST h Star; mainsUS$10-32; h is anexcellent ‘boat’of papayafilled with should stopbyforasinful bananas Foster. with mangochutney. Atthevery least,you termelon spare ribsandblackened mahi-mahi ger, anddaily specialslike specialtypastas wa- such asvegetable tempura withlimeandgin- nouvelleboasts outstanding Jamaican treats thispriceyyetrelaxed atnight, Lamplit spot 4373; mainsUS$15-30; &Bar Restaurant Rockhouse TOP END from the cliffs. 10m-tall you eat,localdivers trytooutdoeach other courses –thisplacefitsthebill.While between the moodforaparty–ordipinpool precludes anintimate meal,butifyou’re in fresh andCajun fare. seafood Theloudmusic The somewhatpriceymenufeatures steaks, at thisever-popular WestEndinstitution. h orthe ster Benedict conch burger. Jamaican dishes. Trythelob- andcontinental and reasonably pricedmenumixingseafood restaurantestablished features avariedand explore before andafter yourmeal,thiswell- thatyouwillwantto setting lous cliff-face friends. local it’safavoriteCafé, hauntof expatsandtheir only schnitzel intown.Justsouthof Rick’s steaks andburgers, andquite possiblythe chicken withcallalooandcream, anarrayof with Jamaican dishes,deliciouscreations like bar andrestaurant features an eclecticmenu open-air dinner,thissmallclifftop for asunset is enhanced by candlelight. withcallaloo.stuffed Thelively tropicaldecor food fondue,lobster incurry,andred snapper European touch andincludeanexcellentsea- and olives.cheese Meals are prepared witha tizers such asmozzarella goat withtomatoes, recommended eatery features splendidappe- 20; Lighthouse Inn MIDRANGE 238 restaurant overlooking Papaya thesea. Ahoy doubt about Falling thefoodatCatcha Star’s canbealittlebewildering, there’s no service Rick’s Café Café Rick’s Xtabi Ivan’s Bar LTU Pub h lunch &dinner) 7:30am-midnight) breakfast, lunch&dinner) NEGRIL •• Drinking & Entertainment &Entertainment NEGRIL ••Drinking lunch &dinner) Mp pp222-3; (Map Mp pp222-3 ; (Map ( (Map pp222-3; (Map a pp222-3; Map Mp pp222-3; (Map You’lljointhetouristythrong h Providing aperfect setting Aka‘Busha’s Place,’this lunch &dinner) h % % %

breakfast, lunch&dinner) % Offering amarve- Offering 957-0121; mainsUS$8-24; % 957-0382; 957-0380; mainsUS$20-30;

Mp pp222-3; (Map 957-0390; CatchaFalling 957-4052; mainsUS$10- Although the Although

mains US$9-18;

% 957-

beach bars take over. beforein theearlyevening petering outasthe to lure youin.IntheWestEnd,bars are lively when manybars offer happy-hourincentives sun, intimetotoastthesetting Long Bay flowingeach along The boozestarts evening Bars rabble-rousing spring break. Things well intothenight. beach where live actskeep thingsthrobbing venues andseveral onthe one bignightclub live reggae music.There are dozensof bars, dancingand,bestofcocktails, all,white-hot when itcomestotheafter-hours pursuits of Negril gives Kingstonarunforitsmoney DRINKING &ENTERTAINMENT extensive menuof cocktails and juices. an The musicistrancelike, andthebarserves decorated withearthtonesandoriginalart. The alfresco rooftop diningroomistastefully withshrimp stuffed andcheese.or quesadillas dishes,likeetarian avegetarian shepherd’spie from achanging menuof mostlyfishandveg- intricate fare paintedthis brightly spotserves mains US$12-30; bcakes alsohit the spot. Coconut pimentochicken cra- andCaribbean shrimp orsnapperdrizzledinacoconutsauce. of that name,hasa cool barifyouwant to cover for entry. andcharge atnight off theirbeach sections a andbeachtables parties.Alltheabove fence with Margaritaville pool withsatellite TVs, and p225; (Map OceanPalacebarstools Alfred’s fortheevening. front-row deckchairs and forthesunset frankly, interchangeable, offering boozers Sunday. on specials,includingkaraokeand hasnightly It hostswetT-shirt contests andthelike, mocks andmultiplebars withentertainment. volleyball,swingham- trampolines inthesea, There abasketball are court, big-screen TVs, aspring-breaksustains vibeallyear long. 4467) Jimmy Buffett’sMargaritaville LONG BAY 4330) o Sunrise Club Sunrise Most of thebars alongthebeach are, quite Risky Business Risky , , themostostentatiousof thebeach bars, Legends BeachResort % Hungry Lion 967-4735) h Mp p225; (Map dinner) Mp p225; (Map , Cosmo’s Renovated inlate 2007, Mp pp222-3; (Map %

957-4293) Mp p225; (Map %

really hopduring

957-3918) Mp p225; (Map Mp p225; (Map lonelyplanet.com , atthehotel % % compete 957-4486; 957-3834) % % 957- 957-

NEGRIL & WEST COAST

239 op- Hotel Rutland Tue, Fri Tue, Mon, Thu Wed and h h h 957-4669; Mon, Thu & Sat) . % h Negril Crafts Market 957-4405; 957-4735; 957-4479; just north of Plaza just north of % 957-4395) % % % 957-4405; (Map p225 ; p225 (Map (Map p225 ; Norman Manley Blvd) p225 (Map %

(Map ; p225 (Map pp222-3 ; West End Rd) pp222-3 (Map

(Map p225 ; p225 (Map (Map p225 ; p225 (Map MXIII (Map pp222-3 ;

(Map p225 ; p225 (Map Tue, Fri & Sun) This Negril institution is one of the Tue, There are three main crafts centers: main crafts centers: three are There You will also find sound-system jams jams You will also find sound-system events upcoming is Information about reggae free stage The following venues & Sat) This place goes all out during spring break. Occa- US$12. Cover on Wednesday night. sionally, jazz is featured oldest beach bars. Shows begin around 10pm and continue oldest beach bars. US$4. Cover deep into the night. be hustled into a purchase the fun. Don’t of don’t want. you Point Craft Centre ; Norman Manley Blvd) p225 (Map & Sun) The best spot for live reggae on Long Bay, Bourbon & Sun) The best spot for live reggae to Beach occasionally hosts big-name acts. Cover US$5 US$10. h Roots Bamboo De Buss Risky Business SHOPPING Locals hawk carvings, caps, ham- woven mocks, jewelry, macramé bikinis, T-shirts along West End and and crafts on the beach is part Haggling Rd. Competition is fierce. where the DJs (‘selectors’) play shatteringly the DJs (‘selectors’) shatteringly play where with some loud music – usually dancehall railroad the size of Euro-disco – on speakers in the The most popular jams are boxcars. Bay.Little Negril Hills, near poles. on streetside posted concerts. Bourbon Beach Alfred’s Ocean Palace II, Couples, Beaches Negril and Grand Lido. BeachesII, Couples, Lido. and Grand Negril party booze and you can the gates Once inside shell to without having content to your heart’s cent. another out Live Music with legendary, concerts are Negril’s reggae every performances night peak season, in live to be some big talent in sure when there’s weeklytown. Several jams, with offer venues the a piece of all get a rotation so they system big-name acts usually per- action. The really form at The house band here is well loved and draws a sizable is well loved and draws a The house band here crowd. & Sun) With a rotating roster of musicians anchored by a & Sun) With a rotating roster of musicians anchored ‘riddim’rock-solid section, the house Hurricane Band shows tourists each Wednes- a thing or two about roots music here to US$10. jazz show. Cover US$5 day. Sundays see a free Samsara posite Couples Negril, the posite

Wed- 24hr) time h This is the h long Another daily) A friendly h 957-0694) A little pricey A little pricey 957-0925) 957-4442; % 957-0382) % % 957-0380) know what they’re know what they’re % % Even if you can’t afford to Even 957-4005; admission US$10; (Map pp222-3 ; NEGRIL •• Shopping

% (Map ; pp222-3

definitely (Map pp222-3 ; (Map pp222-3 ;

(Map pp222-3 ; (Sheffield Rd; admission US$5;

(Map pp222-3 )

(Map p225 ;

A happening disco and the only one you’ll Nonguests can obtain passes (US$25-50) Triple-X Mia’s Winebar Mi Yard Mi LTU Pub LTU Pirate’s Cave Sands shamelessly touristy (it’s been shamelessly touristy (it’s a all-inclusive resorts: Sandals Negril, Hedonism Sandals Negril, Hedonism resorts: all-inclusive for entry to the discos in the following upscale go-go club of choice in Negril. choice club of go-go midnight, and Saturday. There’s not much not much midnight, and Saturday. There’s midnight. before action from Miami and New York regularly takes takes from Miami and New York regularly the turntables. The best nightscommand of before free enter when women Thursday, are but the DJs doing; during the high seasontalent guest find outside of an all-inclusive resort. It’s not resort. an all-inclusive find outside of the most urbane place, with its tacky decor, Jungle Sun) and beer (of course, you can get those too) and you can get course, and beer (of glass. each access with internet free offers Nightclubs newcomer eschews the local focus on cocktails newcomer eschews night when you wee crowd into the hours, rum and slap down white of can swig shots with locals. dominoes Popular with locals, this place draws a late- and comfortable clifftop haunt centered on and comfortable clifftop haunt centered tiki bar:a small yet lively place to the perfect at sunset or enjoy a up a conversation strike noon. before Bloody Mary after after 7:30pm. hot spot for sunset, starts a off Pirate’s great bars nearby hotel mellow than the little more strength locals and gathers but attracts more evening progresses. as the stay at Caves, you can still join sunset you stay cock- at Caves, allowed to stay tails. are Sadly, only guests spot from which to launch a big night out. a big to launch spot from which since the Rolling Stones have stopped by), but have since the Rolling Stones proper Rick’s the the party-hearty vibe makes form still has its kitschy charm. To be sure, it To be sure, charm. form still has its kitschy is sun deck, rope swing and cliffsun deck, rope diving plat- Rick’s Café lays on the band really cover and the reggae with two-story restaurant, yet this schmaltz, when there are no acts on stage. acts no are when there WEST END escape the beach mayhem. All the live-music live-music All the mayhem. the beach escape even bars, also terrific are below listed venues lonelyplanet.com NEGRIL & WEST COAST it has Cbn cigars. Cuban ec way). each airport andNegril(aboutMontego US$35 Bay % p225; seeking. you’re can askforthedeparture pointof thebus office east of theroundabout.There’s an center transportation (US$12, aboutfourhours) depart from the (US$3), Savanna-la-Mar (US$3)andKingston US$35. around operated bytourcompaniesmake therunfor pect topayabout US$10). Alternatively, buses (thepriceisnegotiable,butex- Montego Bay Donald Sangster International Airportin and route alsoleave taxis forNegrilfrom tochangeneed vehicles inLucea. Minibuses hour journeycostsaboutUS$5,andyoumay The1½- NegrilandMontegobetween Bay. domestic charter service. See Montego Bay. p292 formore on details at US$66perperson Negriland between Rios, PortAntonioandKingston.Fares start Ochofor smallgroupsgoingtoMontego Bay, offering on-demandcharter flights service p225; by thedomesticcharter company about 11kmnorthof NegrilVillage, isserved Aerodrome Negril GETTING THERE&AWAY noted local artists. showing originalpaintingandsculpture by Blvd) Hotel, NormanManley Ja-Ja Originals pp222-3; the Kuyabahotel. p225; (Map the crafts, asdoes Rd) including Square Plazahasduty-free andjewelrystores, 3 ; WestEndRd) Plaza Blvd) Manley Village, West End Rd) de Negriland 240 sells Wassi Artpottery andotherquality sells The tourcompanies Gallery Kush Art Times Plaza Square In Negril, buses bound for Montego Bay boundforMontego Bay In Negril,buses Dozens of run androute taxis minibuses 957-4110)

ERLT RAL • renIln abu NEGRIL TOTRYALL ••Greeen IslandHarbour % Mp pp222-3) (Map Cigar World ( h % 957-3309) 957-5374; www.timair.net) % , 7am-6pm) 957-4486; TheHungryLion,WestEndRd) Tajmahal’s Plaza deNegril offer minibustransfers between have goodsouvenir shops. Times 957-4318; Kuyaba, Norman Manley Blvd) 957-4318; Kuyaba,NormanManley

Mp p225; (Map . A Fi WiPlaza and

and

Mp pp222-3; (Map

( Mp p225; (Map insidethegate, where you % Kuyaba Arts and Crafts Boutique andCrafts Kuyaba Arts (Map (Map pp222-3 ; Sheffield Rd)

Mp p225; (Map

Collectibles Art Gallery Art Collectibles

Mp p225; (Map 957-5016) Sunshine Village are traditionalgalleries Tropical Tours %

Mp pp222-3) (Map Caribic Vacations Caribic % 957-4326; CocoLaPalm

% Mp pp222-3; (Map % , at Bloody Bay , atBloodyBay % 957-3299) , an‘airtaxi’ 957-0728; WestEnd 957-9263; Norman 675-4579)

, TimAir (Map (Map pp222-

Mp p225; (Map inspector’s inspector’s Coral Seas Coral Seas , selling , selling , 1km

, and Negril Negril

(Map (Map and (Map (Map (Map (Map

Manley BlvdandWestEndRdrent motor- Mp pp222-3; (Map % bicycle rentals, try (US$25 toUS$35)andbicycles(US$10).For cycles (US$40toUS$50perday),scooters Norman ManleyBlvd Rentals Car pp222-3; (Map US$2. to two pointsshould bemore never thanUS$1 them downanywhere. Thefare any between Manley BlvdandWestEndRd.Youcanflag Negril Village ortoanypoint in between. theairportand US$15 forajourneybetween the airstrip andhotels. costsabout Ataxi the WestEndrunshuttles to the beach. have hotels shuttlestothevillage, on andseveral Upscale resorts atthenorthendof LongBay stage you’llmostlikely transportation. need line, anditcanbeawitheringwalk.Atsome Negril stretches alongmore than16kmof shore- GETTING AROUND (JUTA; call the Negril willcostaboutUS$60.InMoBay, the Great Morass. After 16kmyoupass the ofaround a wideexpanse swampland – Immediately northof Negril,theA1swings GREEN ISLAND HARBOUR draw inthearea is Mayfield Falls. The onlytownof note isLuceaandthemain way leadstoTryallandonMontego Bay. Northeast fromNegril,thenewA1 express- NEGRIL TOTRYALL in frontof Coral Plaza. Seas are attheNegrilCraftsMarket stands taxi and from can ordertaxis cab. Yourhotel willcallacabforyou,oryou Negotiate yourfare before stepping into the US$2 per3km)butfew drivers meters. use Fares are regulated bythegovernment (about Blvd; Rental Bike also offers scooter rentals, asdoes More thanadozen placesalong Norman Local car-rental companiesinclude and Montego between Bay taxi A licensed Tourist taxis displayaredTourist taxis plate. license Minibuses and route taxis cruise Norman androutecruise taxis Minibuses between There’s noscheduled busservice 957-4908; Norman Manley Blvd) 957-4908; NormanManley

% % 957-4354). 979-0778) Jamaica Union of Travelers Association Jamaica UnionofTravelers (Map (Map p225 ; Vernon’s NormanManley CarRentals,

( % Plaza deNegril % Map Map p225 ; 957-0094; WestEndRd) 957-9224; WestEndRd). . Wright’s Bike Rental Bike Wright’s JUTA Map Map pp222-3 ; %

( 957-4354) % or lonelyplanet.com 957-9197) Negril YachtNegril Club and . % The latter Dependable Mp p225; (Map

Vernon’s 957-4522; . There Jus Jeep

NEGRIL & WEST COAST is is 956- 241 gallery Cool Cool Hanover % , which , which ( 956-2280;

Cleveland % The

( is centered is centered 956-2348; Main St) 956-2205; Internet access % 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) ( courthouse % Hanover Museum 8:30am-5pm Mon-Thu, 8:30am- 8:30am-5pm Mon-Thu, h ( 956-2584; Watson Taylor Dr) Taylor 956-2584; Watson , established in 1725. It’s h 956-2233, 956-3836) On the head- % 956-2222; Sir Alexander Bustamante 956-2222; Sir Alexander Bustamante (

, which bustles on Saturdays. , which Wide Sargasso Sea. Wide Sargasso 956-2553) Faces the roundabout in the 956-2553) Faces % % ( has limestone balustrades and a ( % ( and 956-2241; Seaview Dr; The town’s restored The town’s restored is the square On the east side of In a yellow house about 100m east of the In a yellow house about 100m east of A side road that begins 200m west of the A side road that begins 200m west of The once-bustling port abounds in old in old abounds port The once-bustling % Sq, Watson Taylor Dr) Taylor Sq, Watson church leads to the church 2584; admission US$2; per 30min US$1) West of downtown. per 30min US$1) West of Church, with an emergency land behind Hanover Parish department. of town. center the courthouse. beside Dr) Watson Taylor clapboard upper story topped by a clock tower by Corinthian columns. The clock supported was sent – it was to Lucea in 1817 by mistake for the Caribbeanactually intended island of without a It has supposedlySt Lucia. worked ever since. hitch Stanhope market road curls A walk north up the main frontage houses, Lucea’s finest historical past some of and de- near decrepitude, of many in a state posits you atop the headland with a fine view is At the hillcrest Lucea Harbour. east over Hanover Parish Church but has several in- uninspired architecturally the section of monuments; a Jewish teresting the days when Lucea recalls walled cemetery community. Jewish had a vibrant Information Information Hanover Parish Library Lucea Hospital National Commercial Bank Police station Scotiabank Sights Sir Alexander Bustamante Square on a small fountain fronting the handsome engine 1932 fire the vintage courthouse. Note limestone-and-timber structures in ‘Carib- structures limestone-and-timber wood style, with gingerbread bean vernacular’ verandas. and wide frontages trim, clapboard has to the mid-1700s. Lucea The oldest dates in several films, including appeared Runnings Historical Society town’s preservation. the in active town, the gas station of in the center Texaco has a Hoffstead well-known artist Lloyd ( displays his paintings and sculptures. displays his paintings Sir Has ) , 3km , 3km a 922-1287; admis- 957-6334) % Island Harbour •• Green NEGRIL TO TRYALL

( 957-6334; www.rhodes % (

% ( 957-6467; admission US$1; US$1; 957-6467; admission

957-6467; camping US$10, cab- % ( . It includes memorabilia

% (

is a beautiful, hassle-free stretch stretch hassle-free is a beautiful, Offers camping and five simple simple and five camping Offers 9am-5pm) h

8am-10pm) Rhodes Hall Plantation

You can eat cheaply at the roadside jerk You can eat cheaply Rhodes Hall Plantation Rhodes Hall Plantation Half Moon Beach sides. Forty kilometers equidistant from Negril sides. Forty kilometers Bay,and Montego Lucea is small enough for walk everywhere. to visitors pop 7500 is Lucy,’ as the town is commonly known, ‘ by hills on three built around a harbor ringed LUCEA LUCEA Alexander Bustamante Museum sion free; room wooden shack where Bustamante Bustamante where room wooden shack as the was born has been reconstructed minister. ‘Busta’ is honored with a memorial ‘Busta’ is honored minister. August 6. The rustic three- each ceremony is important as the birthplace of national hero is important as the birthplace of prime Alexander Bustamante, island’s first the BLENHEIM BLENHEIM Cove, Davis of This tiny hamlet, 6km inland stalls at Green Island Harbour. Island stalls at Green sandwiches, burgers and simple Jamaican and simple Jamaican sandwiches, burgers to US$5). snacks (mains US$3 furnishings. The thatched restaurant serves restaurant furnishings. The thatched Half Moon Beach ins from US$50) Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating restaurant backing a small but attractive beach beach a small but attractive backing restaurant up. Follow hot mineral springs bubble where west and you may seethe beach crocodiles at riding is Horseback the river. the mouth of one/two hours). (US$50/60 per offered picturesque, 220-hectare fruit-and-coconut 220-hectare picturesque, plantation and a with several bars thatched just offshore and no motorized watercraft. watercraft. and no motorized just offshore is permitted. Nudism of sand beloved by locals and families. Part of of Part by locals and families. sand beloved of healthy reefs are there Park, the Negril Marine h Island Harbour. shores of a deep cove – Green Island Harbour Island Harbour – Green a deep cove of shores gray-sand the thin, pirogues line – where Minibuses taxis route and going shore. between in Green Negril and Lucea stop Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book southwest of Green Island Harbour, is a a is Island Harbour, Green southwest of but spacious wooden cabins with bare-bones but spacious wooden cabins with bare-bones telling of the hero’s life. It has public toilets the hero’s life. of telling the rear. to and a picnic area resort.com; 2-person/family cottage US$95/330; two handsome beachfront cottages with pri- cottages two handsome beachfront plus kitchen. bath with hot water, vate NEGRIL & WEST COAST this isanever-popular placethatserves town square andHanover Parish Church, cades. The grandestof are these atMayfield, Moskito Cove andare knownfortheir cas- The DolphinHead inlandof rise Mountains MAYFIELD FALLS costs minibus orroute taxi about US$5. orNegrilcostsabout US$3.A and MoBay change vehicles here. Lucea Abusbetween to andNegril,youmay need Bay public vehicles traveling Montego between the market. Luceaisamidwayterminus for depart Luceafromtheopenground opposite arrive androute taxis minibuses and Buses, Getting There&Away tonic of sorrel and ginger. stewed greens andpeasarefreshing ‘culture cooked foods’like tofu andgluten, bor, avivaciouslydecorated shack serving h steamed fish and natural juices. healthy naturalfoods,includingtofu dishes, U$2-10; hearty serving Jamaican fare. and tiledfloors. There’s agoodrestaurant nished, cleanroomswithlouvered windows of townontheA1,itoffers 10nicelyfur- hotmail.com; rUS$50-60; a modestbar and restaurant. and private bathroomswithhotwater. Ithas has 23simpleroomswithbasicfurnishings building behind Hanover Parish Church that without air-conU$35/30; West Palm Hotel Sleeping &Eating tress stillboasts cannonsin its embrasures. George IIIof for- England.Theoctagonal named afterCharlotte, Queen wife of King School. High It’s beyondRusea distance Charlotte Fort army barracks.Theovergrown remains of red-brick buildingconstructed in1843asan School Rusea High gift shop, toiletsand a snack bar. andmeasures.lead weights Italsohasatiny a woodenbathtubandmiscellanyof pots, includeprisoners’barracks. Exhibits stocks, 4pm Fri) 242 Vital Ital Vital Tommy’s Restaurant GuestHouse Global Villa On theheadlandbeyondchurch is 9am-’whenever’) ERLT AAN-AMR NEGRIL TO SAVANNA-LA-MAR , a tiny affair housed inanoldpolice housed , atinyaffair h breakfast, lunch&dinner) ( % overlook thechannel ashort

( 956-2218; Seaview Dr;mainsUS$3-5; 956-2218; Seaview East of East townbesidethehar- % , avenerable Georgian-style 956-2321; Fort CharlotteSt;rwith/ 956-2321; Fort a a

( % Eight kilometers Eight west Amustyoldwooden ) ) (

% 956-3106; Main St;mains 956-3106; Main 956-2916; globalvilla@ Between the Between through theWestmorelandthrough Plains. This Pondside, orbyturningnorthatSavanna- Mayfield Falls fromTryallorHopewellvia your waytobesure. Youcanalsoreach the route isquite complex;youshouldask signed, butthere are turnoffs and several Moskito Cove Theroute viaCascade. is From theA1,take theroadinlandfrom Getting There&Away refreshment. and hotels; lunch thepriceincludestransportation, Norman Manley manylocal Blvd,orthrough (per person US$65)attheofficeinNegrilon Tuesday andFriday).Youcanbookatour music anddanceduringshow time(2:30pm flowers, joinintraditionalAfrican andeven and otherJamaican fruits,vegetables and stones. Youcanlearnabout ackee, breadfruits dappled river course,clamberingover river bamboo-and-log bridge thenfollowthesun- traction. Toreach thecascadesyou’llcrossa US$25) 4864; www.mayfieldfalls.com; admissionUS$10,with lunch through a cave. by gladesof bamboo. swim Youcaneven swimmingholes,whichlightful are shaded to take arefreshing dipinanyof thede- ofa series 21fallsandpoolsbeckonsyou Moskito Cove (6kmeastof Lucea).Here, near Pennycooke, about16kmsouthof cluded swampy areas, alongsidean endemic a few crocodiles maystilllive in more se- its lowerreaches. Thefishing isgood,and River, whichCabarita feeds swamplandsat entirely insugarcane,is drainedbythe area,flat, mountain-rimmed planted almost import. any gritty Savanna-la-Mar theonlytownof ish dependentonthesugarindustry, with the southernshore of Westmoreland, apar- along slowtodevelop Tourism hasbeen SAVANNA-LA-MAR NEGRIL TO 957-3309) Negril is deplorably potholed. Cross routes (about24km)alongaroadthat la-Mar orAmity theBanbury andtaking Original Mayfield Falls & Mineral Springs Falls Mayfield &Mineral Original Roads fanoutfromSavanna-la-Mar Vacations Caribic isaworkingtropicalfarmandtourat- offers excursions (US$65). Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

(in MontegoBay % 953-9896, in

( % 957- NEGRIL & WEST COAST 243 , in a , in a , on the B9 955-6080) 640-1111, in the USA 800- 640-1111, in the With a wide, sandy With a wide, ) % (

% (

at a crossroads north of at a crossroads north of St Barnabas Anglican Church pais monument Free tours of the factory can be arranged arranged the factory can be of tours Free Frome also boasts two attractive churches, churches, Frome also boasts two attractive A Lost Beach Resort the Working People of Jamaica.’ of the Working People reservation. by including style. Teutonic vaguely Although workers were promised a dollar a were Although workers only received hired day, the men who were 15 cents a day and women only 10 cents. for higher pay, pas- went on strike Workers When sions ran high and violence erupted. to the cane and setthe crowds rioted fire by firing into the fields, the police responded The whole island crowd, killing four people. The situation exploded in violent clashes. was defused activist Alexander when labor His efforts the dispute. Bustamante mediated un- rise mass labor to the island’s first gave political party, organized ions and the first ). p31 (see under his leadership for Alexander Bustamante and the Workers fight of in 1938. On behalf their courageous There is a large sundeck, kids’ playground, is a large There with pool table. library and a huge Jacuzzi the season. depend on Rates FROME foremost Jamaica’s at the heart of Frome lies alluvial a rich of sugar estate, in the center by the Frome is dominated plain. The area sugar-processing factory the and south of Savanna-la-Mar north of in 1938, Hill. Constructed Grange town of the factory became the setting for a vio- During the dispute. lent nationwide labor the 1930s many small factories of Depression boughtWest Indies Sugar out by the were from all Company. Unemployed workers seeking here work. the island converged over water. Bicycle and snorkel-gear rentals are are rentals snorkel-gear Bicycle and water. Jamaican excursions. guided as are offered, served.are to US$5) meals (US$3 apt 2-bedroom apt US$129-149, 3-bedroom apt US$99-129, US$149-179; is good for families hotel this quiet beach, peaceful environment a more who want The modern hotel than Negril can offer. in 14 furnishings exotic hardwood features with suites spacious one- to three-bedroom beach Two thatch-and-wood kitchenettes. bedrooms and kitchenettes. loft cabins have the factory gates reads: ‘To Labour reads: leader the factory gates 626-5678; www.lostbeach.com; cabin US$59, 1-bedroom 1-bedroom cabin US$59, 626-5678; www.lostbeach.com;

is is (locals call it (locals call 442-3721; info@ •• Little Bay & Around SAVANNA-LA-MAR NEGRIL TO . Crocodiles and Also known as Also known as % ( still stands beside still stands beside

and a long sliver of of and a long sliver Homers Cove Lost Beach , where he bathed; it’s now , where Uncle Sam’s Donkey Derby 867-2897; per tent US$10, cabin with % ( Hope Wharf

Bob Marley’s house

A mangrove swamp extends east of Little east of swamp extends A mangrove Bob Marley used to hang out here in the in used to hang out here Bob Marley

Romie’s Ocean View The annual Several fishing commu- with active beaches verandas and bathrooms with solar-heated and bathrooms with solar-heated verandas Simple yet charming wooden cottages with wooden cottages Simple yet charming ryone parties down. ryone when a cavern is lit up with hundreds of of is lit up with hundreds when a cavern up and eve- is cranked candles, the reggae soup and other simple fisherfolk fare. Uncle fare. soup and other simple fisherfolk events. Sam’s also puts on sound-system held in the Bat Cave, Full-moon parties are boo bar festooned with girlie posters, crab crab with girlie posters, boo bar festooned shells and other miscellany – serves ‘dapper’ and communal showers and toilets. Its at- and and communal showers bam- – a gaily decorated mospheric eatery the cliffs of Little Bay offers camping amid the cliffs Little Bay offers of well as rustic cabins as shady almond trees shared/private bathroom US$20/25) marine turtles can be found here. Dolphins marine turtles can be found here. Sleeping & Eating Garden Park in February. offshore offshore year-round. and humpback whales frequent the waters the waters and humpback whales frequent white sand called white Bay, fishing com- lies the beyond which munity of Bob Marley’s Spring house. private a 1970s. trepreneurial wits. The area is popular for is popular for wits. The area trepreneurial that lure and dancehall sound systems reggae miles around. the local crowd from who live by a carefree axiom in ramshackle axiom in ramshackle by a carefree who live and their en- homes, dependent on fishing onset of commercialization. It’s a great place commercialization. It’s a great onset of to commune with Rastas and other Jamaicans bathing. Little Bay is imbued with the kind of bathing. Little Bay with the kind of is imbued that pervaded feel laid-back the Negril before ‘Brighton Beach’) east, Little and, immediately Bay, and peaceful with handsome beaches Southeast of Retirement, a badly eroded side a badly eroded Retirement, Southeast of to road loops down LITTLE BAY & AROUND & AROUND LITTLE BAY navigable by small boat for 19km. small boat by navigable life. an insight Jamaican into nities provide fish – the ‘God-a-me’ – that can live out of out of can live – that the ‘God-a-me’ fish – is The river spots. moist, shady in water Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book held on Little Bay beach the first Sunday Sunday held on Little Bay the first beach RomiesOceanView.com; Homers Cove; cottage US$30) Uncle Sam’s, this little budget heaven on on heaven Uncle Sam’s, this little budget NEGRIL & WEST COAST juices and herbal teas. dishes,fruit is known foritsveggie feast, I-tal US$10. is hills withfullyequipped kitchen. Camping Retreat,’ which cabininthe isaseparate Here youcanalsorent Mountain ‘Esau’s toiletsandshowersenclosed are alfresco. charming lifestyle retreat thatoffers twovery rusticbut up frombeneathamatting of foliage. further uptheroad,where thewater foams source of theRoaringRiver isabout 400m waters.dip withthefishinturquoise The overpriced, butgrantsachance foracool Entryis calledEsau. property of aRasta ginger torch andheliconiaontheprivate surrounded byalandscapedgardenfullof admission US$8) www.jamaicaescapes.com/Villas/BlueHole/BlueHole.html; lage toBlueHoleGardens River thevil- forabout 1kmuphillthrough hill overlooking the burbling spring. Jamaican fare, ChillOutView,ona asdoes cheap and craftsshops. Arestaurant serves tion lounge, changing rooms,playground tour guides.Ithassecure parking,arecep- the toutswhocongregate outsideposingas then aroundthegardensandcave; ignore you toshow thewaytoticket office,and roost in the recesses. hole outsidethecave. Harmless fruitbats inside thecave, orinthe‘bottomless’blue sit inthemineralspringthatpercolates up and stalactites.Take yourswimminggear to leads downtochambers fullof stalagmites cooperative). Inside,apathwithhandrails can enter thecaves onlywithguidesfromthe ranean passage litbyelectriclanterns (you facegashed bythemouthofcliff asubter- which runsturquoise-jade. Steps leadupa stone aqueducttakes offsomeof thewater, full of water hyacinths and water lilies.A that gush upfromthegroundinameadow mineralwatersnatural beautyspotcontains Park hour ortwodownthecaves at fun-in-the sunethosof Negril,spendan If you’re lookingforabriefescapefromthe RIVER&BLUEROARING HOLE 244 house’ cabinsits house’ the edge of thetumblingbrook(the‘water- This is also a quintessential countercultureThis isalsoaquintessential As youarrive anofficialguidewillmeet Also here is The lanethencontinuesbeyondRoaring (cave toursadult/childUS$15/8; NEGRIL TO SAVANNA-LA-MAR &BlueHole River ••Roaring cottages , a beautiful sinkhole thatis, abeautifulsinkhole Lovers Café Café Lovers over thestream). Bamboo- (US$40-80) (mains US$3-8)

( set ingardensat set % h 918-1341; http:// 8am-5pm) Roaring River Roaring , which . This

parish. ‘Sav,’ asitislocallyknown,offers ern Jamaica of andthecapital Westmoreland Savanna-la-Mar isthelargest towninwest- pop 20,000 SAVANNA-LA-MAR swim ina local creek. (US$30perhour)and horses alongthesand is an800-hectare farm,where youcanride Park and Montego Bay. where itbeginsasteepclimbtoWhithorn road –theB8leadsnortheasttoGalloway, to BlackRiver andthesouthcoast.Another the A2turnssoutheastandfollowscoast the A2,8kmeastof Savanna-la-Mar. Here Ferris Crossisamajor crossroadshamleton FERRIS CROSS&PARADISE PARK by companiesinNegril (around US75). Roaring River from Petersfield (US$1). fields. Routeandcoasters taxis alsorunto thecane ride downthepotholedroadthrough Petersfield. Fromthere it’sahotwalkorrough can catch abusinSavanna-la-Mar asfar (8km northeastof Savanna-la-Mar). You 2km northof themaincrossroadsinPetersfield Roaring River isatShrewsbury Estate,about &Away There Getting within a few years of being built.Itsinnards St. Parts of intothe swamps itcollapsed atthefootof Great George Fort Savanna-la-Mar completedThe Englishcolonialists never the Sights Scotiabank Hospital Savanna-la-Mar Post office Police station National CommercialBank Information have swept the town. Nature isconcerned,asnumeroushurricanes an unremarkable historyexceptwhere Mother shipping portduringthecolonialera. Ithas around 1730andgrew modestlyasasugar- is 2km-longGreat George St.Itwasfounded attractions. few gency service 24hr) On the A2 on the northeast side 24hr)OntheA2onnortheast gency service of town. Gog St) George courthouse. Organized tours toRoaringRiver are offered About amilewestof Ferris Cross, Sav isvirtuallyaone-street town.Itsaxis ( % 955-2675; admissionUS$5; ( ( % % ( % 955-9295; Great George St) 955-9295; Great George 955-2601; Great George St) 955-2601; Great George 918-1865; Great George St)Nearthe 918-1865; Great George ( % ( % 955-2133;

h 955-2623; Great lonelyplanet.com 9am-4:30 Mon-Sat) h Paradise emer-

NEGRIL & WEST COAST 245 955-3362; mains 955-3362; mains % (

918-0159; 10 Rose St; mains US$3-5; 918-0159; 10 Rose % (

A tiny outdoor place serving A tiny outdoor Serves and the patties, pastries In the fort at the foot of Great Great of In the fort at the foot lunch & dinner) You can buy fresh fish and produce from fish and You can buy fresh J’s Jerk Centre Hammond’s Pastry Old Fort Club Restaurant bathrooms. Eightbathrooms. annex a modern rooms in decor. better offer the market at the base of Great George St, but George Great at the base of the market great. aren’t the sanitary conditions Getting There & Away Buses, minibuses taxis fre- operate and route betweenquently along the A2/B8 Montego Bay (US$3) and Negril (US$3). Public vehi- basis from the cles also depart on a regular Beckford St transportation in Kingston center hours). three (US$10, h mains US$1.50-5) St. ServesGeorge staples as such Jamaican curried goat. US$1.50-7) best traditional coco-bread around. coco-bread best traditional great jerk chicken and festival (a fried biscuit (a fried biscuit and festival jerk chicken great fish. steamed a sausage) plus shaped like court- •• Savanna-la-Mar SAVANNA-LA-MAR NEGRIL TO 955-9344; Sheffield Rd; 955-9344; Sheffield Rd; , opposite, was built was built , opposite, % (

, built in 1738 and named after after , built in 1738 and named On the A2, 2km east of town, this town, this On the A2, 2km east of , built in 1925 at the junction of Great Great at the junction of , built in 1925

St George’s Parish Church The most interesting building is the The most interesting

At the north end of town by the roundabout town by the roundabout At the north end of in 1905. It’s uninspired, but has a stately but pipe in 1905. It’s uninspired, in 1914. that was dedicated organ

the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ everyone it. See you know, or resell the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to restricted. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes In return, © Lonely Planet Publications. To makeis not digitally it easier for you to use, access to this chapter © Lonely Planet Publications. some of its 14 rooms are appealing. All have appealing. All have 14 rooms are its some of in private and hot water utilitarian furniture great house delightful that looks from the great down, though Inside it’s a bit run outside. house r US$20-30) two-story is another old stone-and-timber, Lochiel Guest House Manning’s School Thomas Manning. planter, a Westmoreland Sleeping & Eating known as Hendon Circle is the very handsome Circle is the very known as Hendon George and Rose Sts, where there’s a fountain there’s Rose and George Sts, where with the words, cast iron, inscribed made of dry.’ pavements the ‘Keep form a small cove where locals swim. A bus- locals swim. where small cove form a in vegetables specializing market, tling daily the fort. be found by can and local fish, Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book