17_0708_MSM_OneMeal.indd 1

Photo: Noam Moskowitz R eage to the dozens of countries to which Jews fled after expulsion expulsion after fled Jews which to of countries dozens the to eage population. Jewish the half about up only make background of European Jews Ashkenazi where Israel, in bit players are they table, Jewish American North world. the around and here both food, of Jewish nature the changed has in 1948 establishment Israel’s after and before Holy Land the anything.” make can She Yafa multifaceted. is curious. also “But we are 36. Saraf, says food,” the is alive tradition that keeps still that thing only the clock. Presley Elvis an rabbis—and of photos famous alongside walls on the hang trinkets Jewish diverse. equally home’sis Their decor travels. by her inspired Tex-Mex prepare to foods other known and been Yafa has ples, sta Libyan her from stray never would mother own her While backgrounds. ethnic of Jewish mixing increased the and Israel in families of evolution the Yafa’s He says menu reflects Indian. grandchildren. and children husband, her by sured trea dishes elaborate the It’s prepare to music. aday-long labor Eastern Middle favorite up her cranks and kitchen the to heads stove. the on marry ancestries The Georgian. and were Kurdish parents Roni’s Libya. and Morocco from came ents today. Yafa’s Israel is that par diaspora from.” we come of where us It reminds It’s heritage. our chain. Tel a south like is Aviv. food “The in of 61, adeli Roni, owner says the on one table. world joined the like feel It can strong. generations three family, for the dinner Sabbath the The piquant flavors of the Sephardim, who trace their lin their trace who Sephardim, the flavors of The piquant of the stars the are bagels and blintzes borscht, brisket, If to of Jews immigration mass the exile, of years 2,000 After and blur to begins ethnicity your generation, each “With and is Moroccan son-in-law, Saraf, Shay Ben-Davids’ The at 6 a.m., early. Yafa wakes begins cooking the Fridays, On intense the of areflection is that And night,” of a Friday taste the is “This on Fridays, when Yafa cooks Yafa when cooks on Fridays, Particularly cooking. wife’s by his tears to brought is ben-david oni sometimes sometimes All Food Israeli Is Food - [ or Libyan. Because anything can be Israeli. be can anything Because Libyan. or Tex-Mex be could Sabbath the of taste The ONE MEAL S Aron by Hellertory - - - ] Holon, Israel can be made Israeli.” made be can everything and It’s food. everything, Israeli as thing no such is really “There by tradition. bound less even is on, she passed raging. is conversation culinary the arrives, fruits dried and other of nuts assortment an and walnuts with stuffed dates dumplings. khinkali her as well as bread, khachapuri Georgian the and couscous grandma’s their are foods favorite Asia. of Central Jews Bukharan the from garlic and chickpeas carrots, shaved with dish rice a oshplau, is There parsley. and mushrooms in cooked beef roast atender and pastry, dough a phyllo bourekas, are There olives. and eggplants peppers, member. family each to of long life blessing a offering and piece on each salt sprinkling bread, and wine for the prayers the recites Roni at sundown. candles Sabbath the by lighting evening the start nonetheless Shirley, daughter, Yafa’s brought mother atradition from Tripoli.challah, homemade cinnamon—and and onions chopped eggs, beef, Morocco. to roots its traces also turmeric with said. “The food connects the family.” the connects food “The said. of Israel. for all did food as together, family the draw to net For Roni, the Friday night dinner is served mostly as amag as mostly served is dinner night Friday the For Roni, has mother her recipes the values she while that says Shirley dried cake, chocolate salad, of fruit dessert the time the By their 4—say Naama, 5, and Yafa’s granddaughters—Daniel, cabbage, hummus, salads, of array an with starts meal The and her but Yafa religious, deeply are not Ben-Davids The ground with stuffed mafrum—potatoes Libyan is There “I know everyone will be here, and that’s a good feeling,” he feeling,” agood that’s and here, be will everyone “I know green olive and chicken stew seasoned seasoned green stew chicken and olive A lemony seeds. caraway and paprika cumin, garlic, with spiced and sauce tomato in cooked then salt, on and lem in marinated perch of Nile strips with stew afish chreime, of Moroccan families. Israeli many define that long histories with dishes of homemade smorgasbord ied but var it’s the foods, national Israel’s considered are falafel and Hummus diet. Israeli on the influence greater a far 1492, have had in Spain from Tonight’s dinner features a version aversion features Tonight’s dinner

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