INDEX

See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below.

GENERAL INDEX near the airport, Alexander Nevsky Monastery 230–231 and Cemetery (Lavra Alek- South of Nevsky, sandra Nevskogo; St. alto, Alvar, 302 A 227–229 Petersburg), 253–254 Abim Plus (St. Petersburg), Upper Nevsky Pros- Alexandra, empress, 15 276 pekt, 222–225 Alexandra Nevskogo Bridge Above and Beyond Tours, 70 Vasilevsky & The (St. Petersburg), 61 Academic trips and language Petrograd Side, Alexandrinsky Theater classes, 77 229–230 (St. Petersburg), 282 Access-Able Travel Source, 71 Suzdal, 198 All-Russian Exhibition Accessible Journeys, 71 Vladimir, 198 Center (formerly VDNKh; Accommodations, 79–81. See Adamant-Caprice (St. Peters- ), 152 also Accommodations burg), 310 Ambassador (St. Petersburg), Index Addresses, finding, 54 291 best, 5–6 Admiralty (Admiralteistvo; Amber, 276 environmentally-friendly, St. Petersburg), 210, 253 Amber House (Yantarny 74 Aeroexpress train, 50 Dom; St. Petersburg), 276 Moscow, 96–113 Agate Pavilion (Tsarskoye The (Tsarskoye Arbat, 107–108 Tselo), 297 Tselo), 296–298 around the Kremlin AirAmbulanceCard.com, 71 American Express and , Air Force Museum, Russian Moscow, 304 97–101 (Moscow), 148–149 St. Petersburg, 308 “foreigner tax,” 102 Air travel traveler’s checks, 66 near the airport, 113 around , 57 American Express Travelers outside the Garden deep vein thrombosis Cheque Card, 66 Ring, 110–113 (economy class syn- American Foundation for the Petrovka and the drome), 68 Blind (AFB), 71 Ukrainian Quarter, jet lag, 50 American Medical Center 104–106 Moscow, 48 Moscow, 304 prostitution, 105 St. Petersburg, 57–58 Petersburg, 309 south of Moscow River, Akhmatova, Anna, 27 Ananov (St. Petersburg), 279 108–110 Museum (St. Petersburg), Andrei Rublev (film), 145 Tverskaya and envi- 262–263 Andropov, Yuri, 21, 22 rons, 101–104 Aktsia (Moscow), 170 Anglia British Bookshop in package tours, 77 Akunin, Boris, 29–31 (St. Petersburg), 277 Peredelkino, 202–203 Akvarel (St. Petersburg), Angliiskaya Naberezhnya rates, 96 287–288 (English Embankment; St. Petersburg, 217–231 COPYRIGHTEDAkvatoria (St. Petersburg), MATERIAL St. Petersburg), 281 around The Hermitage, 291 Angliisky Podvorye (English 218–222 Alexander Gardens (Alexan- Courtyard; Moscow), 160 floor monitors (dezhur- drovsky Sad; Moscow), Anna Akhmatova Museum naya), 227 89, 142 (St. Petersburg), 262–263 landing the best room, Alexander I, Czar, 20 Annunciation, Cathedral of 224 Alexander II, Czar, 15, 20, the (Moscow), 136 Lower Nevsky to 254, 268 Smolny Cathedral, Alexander III, Czar, 20 225–227 324 Antikvariat na Bronnoi Pushkin Museum of Stanislavsky Nemirovich- (Moscow), 170 Fine Arts, 93, 149 Danchenko Theater Antiques and collectibles Spaso-Andronnikov (Moscow), 179 Moscow, 170 Monastery, 145 Banyas (bathhouses), Mos- St. Petersburg, 276 cow, 157 Apartment rentals, 80–81 (Tretyakovskaya Bars, St. Petersburg, 290 Apraksin Dvor (Sadovaya Galereya), 148–149 Battleship Potemkin (film), 28 Ulitsa; St. Petersburg), Museum of History and Art Baza (Moscow), 189 275, 278 (Sergiev Posad), 194 BB King (Moscow), 187 Apshu (Moscow), 187 The State Hermitage Bed & breakfasts (B&Bs), Arbat District (Moscow), 83 Museum (St. Petersburg), 80–81 accommodations, 107–108 209 Bee-Line, 78 restaurants, 130–131 Arts Bureau (Khudozhestven- Belazh (St. Petersburg), 276 shopping, 168 noye Buro; Moscow), 170 Belochka (St. Petersburg), Arbatskaya Lavitsa (Mos- Assessment Committee of 278 cow), 173 the Ministry of Culture, 46 Bi-Ba-Bo (Moscow), 190 Archangel Gabriel, Church of Association of Independent Biblio-Globus (Moscow), 170 the (Moscow), 163 Tour Operators (AITO), 74 Biking, St. Petersburg, 265 Archangel Michael, Cathedral Assumption, Cathedral of the Billiard Cafe-Club Island of of the (Moscow), 136 Moscow, 136–137 Crimea (Moscow), 189 Archangel Michael, Church of Sergiev Posad, 194 Billiards the (Arkhangelskoye), 200 Vladimir, 197 Moscow, 189 Architecture, 24–25 Atlas of St. Petersburg Roads St. Petersburg, 291 best, 7–8 (Atlas Dorog Peterburga), 60 Birzhevoy Bridge (St. Peters- Shchusev Museum of ATMs (automated-teller burg), 61 (Moscow), 53 machines), 65 Bitsevsky Park (Moscow), 156 “Stalin Gothic,” 53 Atrium (Moscow), 169 Blagoveshchenksy Bridge Arctic and Antarctic, Museum Australia (formerly Leytenanta of (Muzei Arktiki I Antark- customs regulations, 47 Shmidta), 61 tiki; St. Petersburg), 257 ecotourism, 74 Blockade Museums (St. Aristocratic estates, Moscow, embassy of, 305 Petersburg), 256–257 152–153 health-related travel Boar House (Moscow), 188 Arkhangelskoye, 199–201 advice, 67 Boating Armed Forces, Museum of Russian consulate in, 45 Moscow, 156 (Moscow), 148 Autumn, 39 St. Petersburg, 265 Armed Forces Day (Defend- Jazz Festi- Boat travel and cruises ers of the Motherland val (St. Petersburg), 286 St. Petersburg, 58, 63–64, Day), 40 Avis Rent a Car, for disabled 215, 264 The Armory Museum (Mos- travelers, 71 from St. Petersburg to cow), 138 Avrora, Cruiser (St. Peters- Moscow, 75 Aromatny Mir (Moscow), 176 burg), 261 Body and Soul (Dusha I Telo; Art, 23–24 Azbuka Vkusa (Moscow), 172 Moscow), 189 export permits for, 46 Bolshoi Okhtinsky Bridge Art galleries (St. Petersburg), 61 Moscow, 150, 170 Babushka (St. Petersburg), Bolshoi Theater (Moscow), St. Petersburg, 276–277 279 178–179, 183 Art Garbage (Moscow), 186 Babushkas, in Moscow, 88 Books, recommended, 30–31 Art market, Moscow, 171 Bakhili (slippers), 154 Bookstores Art Modus (St. Petersburg), Ballad of a Soldier (film), 29 Moscow, 170 276 Ballet, 26 St. Petersburg, 277 Art MUSEON (Moscow), 146 Bolshoi Theater (Moscow), , 194 Art museums 178–179 Botanical Gardens Moscow Mariinsky Theater (St. (Botanichesky Sad; Art MUSEON, 146 Petersburg), 283 Moscow), 152 Museum of Private Moiseyev Ballet (Moscow), Botkin City Hospital Collections, 149 179 (Moscow), 305 New Tretyakov Gallery/ Mussorgsky Theater (St. Ring (Moscow), 86 Museum of Modern Petersburg), 283 Bowling Art (Novaya Tretya- Moscow, 190 kovka), 149–150 St. Petersburg, 291–292 Brezhnev, Leonid, 21, 22 Carbonfund, 74 Chekhov, Anton, 27, 30 325 Bridges, St. Petersburg, 61 Carbon Neutral, 74 Chekhov House Museum British travelers Carbon offsetting, 74 (Moscow), 154 consulate of (St. Peters- Car rentals, 57 Chernenko, Konstantin, burg), 309 St. Petersburg, 62 21, 22 customs regulations, 47 Cartier (Moscow), 174 Cherry Orchard Arts Festival embassy of, 305 Car travel, 51 (Moscow), 178 gay and lesbian travelers, around Russia, 57 Chesma Cathedral and Mon- 71 St. Petersburg, 60, 62 astery (St. Petersburg), 254 green travel, 74 Casinos Children, families with, 72, health-related travel Moscow, 190 100. See also Circus; Zoos advice, 67 St. Petersburg, 292 Moscow Russian consulate in, 45 Cathedral of Dmitry (Suzdal restaurants, 125 for seniors and persons and Vladimir), 197 shopping, 171, with disabilities, 72 Cathedral of Our Lady of 175–176 Bronze Horseman (Medny Smolensk (Moscow), 143 sights and attractions, Vsadnik; St. Petersburg), Cathedral of the Annuncia- 154–155 210, 259–261 tion (Moscow), 136 St. Petersburg B-2 (Moscow), 186 Cathedral of the Archangel accommodations, 219 Buddhist Temple (Budisky Michael (Moscow), 136 restaurants, 240 Khram; St. Petersburg), 254 Cathedral of the Assumption shopping, 278, 280 Budget Travel, 76–77 Moscow, 136–137 China and porcelain Bulgakov, Mikhail, 27, Sergiev Posad, 194 Moscow, 171 151–152 Vladimir, 197 St. Petersburg, 277 Burnt by the Sun (film), 29 Cathedral of the Trinity Chinese Pilot Jao Da Business hours (Sergiev Posad), 194 (Moscow), 187 Moscow, 304 Cathedral of the Twelve Chistiye Prudy (Clean Ponds; St. Petersburg, 308 Apostles (Moscow), 137 Moscow), 86, 163 Bus tours, Moscow, 95 Cathedrals of Kitai-Gorod Chocolate, St. Petersburg, Bus travel, 51–52 (Moscow), 92 277–278 around Russia, 57 Cathedral Square (Sobornaya Christmas, Russian Ortho- Moscow, 54 Ploshchad), 135–136 dox, 39, 40 St. Petersburg, 58, 62 Catherine II (The Great), Christ the Savior Cathedral Butter Week (Maslenitsa), 76 13–14, 20, 153 (Khram Khrista Spasitelya; Bvlgari (Moscow), 174 Catherine’s (Yekater- Moscow), 93, 143 insky Dvorets; Tsarskoye Churches, visiting, 145 Tselo), 297, 298 Church of the Savior on the CafeMax (Moscow), 305 Caviar, 45 Spilled Blood (Tserkov Café Max (St. Petersburg), Cellphones, 78 Spasitelya Na Krovi; St. 309 St. Petersburg, 78 Petersburg), 212, 254, 268 Calendar, 16 Center for Russian Circus Calendar of events, 39–44 Language, 77 Moscow Circus Named Calling cards, international, Centers for Disease Control after Y. Nikulin (Tsen- 308 and Prevention, 67 tralny Tsirk), 155 Canada Central Department Store New Moscow Circus (Novy consulate of (St. Peters- (Moscow), 169 Tsirk), 155 burg), 309 Central House of Artists St. Petersburg, 264 customs regulations, (Tsentralny Dom Khudozh- City Children’s Hospital no. 1 46–47 nika; Moscow), 150, 170 (St. Petersburg), 309 embassy of, 305 Central Library (Vyborg), 302 City Hospital No. 1 (Moscow), gay and lesbian travelers, Central Moscow Tourist 305 71 Club, 157 City Realty, 81 green travel, 74 Chaliapin House Museum Classical music, 26 health-related travel (Moscow), 182 Moscow, 182–183 advice, 67 Chaplin Club (St. Peters- St. Petersburg, 283, 286 Russian consulate in, 45 burg), 289–290 Clean Ponds (Chistiye Prudy; Canal (Moscow), Che (Moscow), 185 Moscow), 86 90 Chechnya, 18–19, 22 Cleansing Day, 76 Capital Tours (Moscow), 155 terrorism in, 69 Clothing, 25. See also Fashions size conversions, 35–37 326 Club and music scene Day of Reconciliation and Square of the Arts up Moscow, 184–187 Accord, 44 to Summer Gardens, St. Petersburg, 287–290 Deep vein thrombosis (econ- 239–240 Club XIII (Moscow), 185 omy class syndrome), 68 tea traditions, 234 Coat check, 150 Defenders of the Motherland Upper Nevsky Pros- Columned Hall (Kolonny Zal; Day (Armed Forces Day), 40 pekt, 235–239 Moscow), 182 Dentists Vasilevsky Island & Connection kit, 79 Moscow, 304 The Petrograd Side, Conservatory (Moscow), 188 St. Petersburg, 308 244–246 Constitution Day, 44 Department stores, St. Sergiev Posad, 194–195 Consulates, Russian, 45 Petersburg, 282 Suzdal, 199 Convention centers, Deposition of the Robe, Vladimir, 199 Moscow, 304 Church of the (Moscow), Vyborg, 303 Corner Drawing Room 136 Disabilities, travelers with, (Pavlovsk), 299 Detsky Mir (Moscow), 171 71–72 Cosmic (Moscow), 190 DHL, 165, 306 Discount shopping Cosmonautics, Museum of The Diamond Fund (Mos- Moscow, 171 (Moscow), 146, 148 cow), 138 St. Petersburg, 278 Cosmos Tours, 75 Dietary red flags, 67 Discrimination, dealing Crafts, Moscow, 171 Dining, 34. See also Restau- with, 70 Crafts festival (Suzdal), 198 rants Index DLT (St. Petersburg), 278 The Cranes Fly (film), 29 Arkhangelskoye, 201 Dmitry, Cathedral of (Suzdal Credit cards, 66 best, 6–7 and Vladimir), 197 Crown of Monomakh environmentally-friendly, Doctors (Shapka Monomakha; 74 Moscow, 304 Moscow), 136 Kronshtadt, 301 St. Petersburg, 308–309 Cruiser Avrora (St. Peters- menu terms, 31, 34 Dome Cinema (Moscow), 191 burg), 261 Moscow, 114–133, 184 Dom Knigi Cruises Arbat, 130–131 Moscow, 170 St. Petersburg, 58, 63–64, around Red Square St. Petersburg, 268, 277 215, 264 and The Kremlin, Domodedovo Airport, 50 from St. Petersburg to 117–121 Dostoyevsky, Fyodor, 14, Moscow, 75 business lunches, 115 27, 30 CSKA (Red Army) Sports by cuisine, 115–116 Dostoyevsky House Museum Complex (Moscow), 159 family-friendly, 125 (St. Petersburg), 263 Currency and currency beyond the Garden Dowager Empress Rooms exchange, 64, 96 Ring, 131–133 (Pavlovsk), 299 Moscow, 304 Petrovka and the Drawbridges, St. Petersburg, St. Petersburg, 308 Ukrainian Quarter, 61 Customs & Border Protec- 125–129 Drugstores, 306, 309 tion, U.S. (CBP), 46 reservations, 121 Dudayev, Dzhokhar, 18, 19 Customs regulations, 45–47 sushi, 123 DVK (Dom Voyennykh Knig; Cynic (Tsynik; St. Peters- Tverskaya and envi- St. Petersburg), 277 burg), 289 rons, 121–124 Dvortsovaya Ploshchad (Pal- Cyril and Methodius Monu- vegetarian, 117 ace Square; St. Petersburg), ment (Moscow), 162 Zamoskvarechye, 204, 209 Cyrillic alphabet, 12, 314 129–130 restaurants, 234–235 Czar Bell (Moscow), 138 Pavlovsk, 299–300 sights and attractions Czar Cannon (Moscow), 138 Peterhof (Petrodvorets), around, 251–253 295–296 Dvortsovy Bridge (St. Peters- St. Petersburg, 232–246 burg), 61 Dance clubs and discos around Palace Square Dzerzhinsky, Felix, 17 Moscow, 184–186 and The Hermitage, St. Petersburg, 287–288 234–235 Dance performances. See buffets, 233 Easter, Orthodox, 41 also Ballet by cuisine, 232–234 Easter Arts Festival Moscow, 178–179 family-friendly, 240 (Moscow), 41, 178 Davranov Travel (St. Peters- Lower Nevsky Prospekt Eastern Tours, 75 burg), 264, 294, 296, 300 up to Smolny Cathe- East-West (film), 29 dral, 241–242 Eclectica (St. Petersburg), Euthimiev Monastery-For- Forgiveness Day, 76 327 264 tress (Suzdal), 197–198 Frigate Tours, 296, 300 Eco Directory, 74 EXile (newspaper), 177, 185, Frommers.com, 77 Economic slump of 2008-09, 306 FSB (Federal Security 11 Export permits, 46 Service), 17 Economy class syndrome Extreme sports, St. Peters- Furs, Moscow, 172 (deep vein thrombosis), 68 burg, 266 Ecotourism, 73–75 Extreme weather exposure, 68 Eisenstein, Sergei, 28 Eyeglass repair, 305 Gagarin, Yuri, 147 Elderhostel, 72–73 The Gagarin Monument ElderTreks, 73 (Moscow), 145 Electricity, 79, 305 Fabrique (Moscow), 185 Gallery D-137 (St. Peters- Electronics, Moscow, 175 Families with children, 72, burg), 277 Eliseyevsky Gastronom 100. See also Circus; Zoos Gambling (Moscow), 165, 172 Moscow Moscow, 190 Elizabeth I, 20 restaurants, 125 St. Petersburg, 292 Embassies, 305 shopping, 171, Garden Emergencies 175–176 (Moscow), 83 Moscow, 305 sights and attractions, Gardens and parks St. Petersburg, 309 154–155 Moscow, 150–152 Emerging Horizons (maga- St. Petersburg St. Petersburg, 259 zine), 71 accommodations, 219 Gate Church of the Interces- English Courtyard (Angliisky restaurants, 240 sion (Moscow), 143 Podvorye; Moscow), 160, shopping, 278, 280 Gay Central (Moscow), 189 182 Family Travel Forum, 72 Gay.com Travel, 71 English Embankment (Angli- Family Travel Network, 72 Gays and lesbians, 70–71 iskaya Naberezhnya; St. Fashions (clothing) Moscow, 188–189 Petersburg), 281 Moscow, 171–173 St. Petersburg, 291 Entertainment and nightlife St. Petersburg, 278 GayTraveler, 71 Moscow, 177–191 Fasol (Moscow), 185 Gazgolder (Moscow), 185 all-night establish- FedEx, 306 General Staff Building ments, 178 Female travelers, 72 (Generalny Shtab; St. bars, 188 Festivals and special events, Petersburg), 251–252 club and music scene, 39–44 Gerlen (Moscow), 307 184–187 Figure skating Gestures, 25 gay and lesbian, Moscow, 158–159 Gifts and souvenirs 188–189 St. Petersburg, 266 Moscow, 172–173 performing arts, Filigree, 280 St. Petersburg, 279 178–184 Films, 28–29 Godunov, Boris, 13, 20 tickets, 177 Finlyandsky Bridge (St. Gogol, Nikolai, 27, 30, St. Petersburg, 281–292 Petersburg), 61 116, 127 bars, 290 Fishfabrique (St. Petersburg), statues of author club and music scene, 289 (Moscow), 86 287–290 Fishing Golden Gates (Vladimir), 197 gay and lesbian, 291 Moscow, 156 Golden Palace (Moscow), 190 performing arts, St. Petersburg, 265 Google searches, 78 282–287 Flying Wheels Travel, 71 Gorbachev, Mikhail, 21, Entry requirements, 44–47 Flying with Disability, 71 22, 32 Environmentally Friendly Fontanka River, 214 Gorbunov House of Culture Hotels, 74 Food and cuisine, 31 (Dom Kultury im. Gorbu- Escorted general-interest Moscow, picnics, 128 nova; Moscow), 186 tours, 75 street food in St. Peters- Gorbushka (Moscow), 175 Escorted Russian Tours, 75 burg, 238 Gorky Park (Moscow), Etiquette and customs, 25 tea traditions (St. Peters- 150–151, 158 Euromed (St. Petersburg), burg), 234 Gorky Park (Park Kultury i 309 zakuski, 242 Otdkykha Imeni M. Europcar (St. Petersburg), 62 Food stores and markets Gorkovo; Moscow), 93 European Medical Center Moscow, 172 Gostiny Dvor (St. Peters- (Moscow), 304 St. Petersburg, 275, 278 burg), 269–270, 274, 275, 278 328 Gostiny Dvor Shopping Historical Museum, National landing the best room, Arcade (St. Petersburg), (Nationalny Istorichesky 224 214 Muzei; Moscow), 142 Lower Nevsky to Gothic bridge (Arkhangels- History and Art, Museum of Smolny Cathedral, koye), 200 (Sergiev Posad), 194 225–227 Grand Cascade (Peterhof), History Museum, St. Peters- near the airport, 294 burg, 256–257 230–231 The History of Russia, 10–25 South of Nevsky, (Moscow), 138 books about, 30 227–229 Grand Palace (St. Peters- early tribes, 11–12 Upper Nevsky Pros- burg), 276 Soviet collapse and after- pekt, 222–225 Grand Palace (Veliky Dvorets; math, 22–25 Vasilevsky Island & The Pavlovsk), 299 Soviet Russia, 17–19 Petrograd Side, Great Depression (St. Peters- Hockey 229–230 burg), 290 Moscow, 159 Suzdal, 198 Great Hall (Tsarskoye St. Petersburg, 266 Vladimir, 198 Tselo), 297 Holidays Hotel Ukraina (Moscow), 53 Great Palace (Peterhof), 294 Moscow, 305 Green Channel at airport St. Petersburg, 309 Customs, 45 Holy Gates (Arkhangels- IAMAT (International Associ- Green Dining Room (Tsar- koye), 200 ation for Medical Assis- skoye Tselo), 297 Homestays, 80–81 tance to Travelers), 67 The Green Directory, 74 Hospitals Iceberg (St. Petersburg), 279 Greenhotels, 74 Moscow, 305 Ice Palace (Ledovy Dvorets; Green Pages, 74 St. Petersburg, 309 St. Petersburg), 266 GSM (Global System for Host Families Association, 81 Ice-skating Mobile Communications), Hotel Association of Moscow, 158 78 Canada, 74 St. Petersburg, 265 Gulag Archipelago (Solzhenit- Hotel Leningradskaya Icons, Russian Orthodox, 165 syn), 28 (Moscow), 53 St. Petersburg, 279 GULAG History, Museum of Hotels, 79–81. See also IGLTA (The International Gay (Muzei Istorii GULAG; Accommodations Index and Lesbian Travel Associa- Moscow), 148 best, 5–6 tion), 70 GUM (Moscow), 89, 168–169, environmentally-friendly, Igor Chapurin Boutique 172 74 (Moscow), 173 Gyms Moscow, 96–113 Ikra Club (Moscow), 186 Moscow, 156 Arbat, 107–108 Independence Day, Russian, St. Petersburg, 265 around the Kremlin 43 and Red Square, In-line skating, Moscow, 158 97–101 International Association Hare’s Island (Zaichy “foreigner tax,” 102 for Medical Assistance to Ostrov; St. Petersburg), 252 near the airport, 113 Travelers (IAMAT), 67 Health concerns, 67–69 outside the Garden International calling Helikon Opera (Moscow), 183 Ring, 110–113 cards, 308 Help (Moscow), 188 Petrovka and the International Film Center The Hermitage (St. Peters- Ukrainian Quarter, (Moscow), 190 burg) 104–106 The International Gay and accommodations around, prostitution, 105 Lesbian Travel Association 218–222 south of Moscow River, (IGLTA), 70 restaurants, 234–235 108–110 International House of Music sights and attractions, Tverskaya and envi- (Mezhdunarodny Dom 247–251 rons, 101–104 Muzyki; Moscow), 182 Store in package tours, 77 International Society of (St. Petersburg), 277 Peredelkino, 202–203 Travel Medicine, 67 Hermitage Theater (St. St. Petersburg, 217–231 International SOS Clinic Petersburg), 282 around The Hermitage, (Moscow), 304 Hertz/Travel Rent (St. Peters- 218–222 International Women’s Day, burg), 62 floor monitors (dezhur- 40 Hiking, Moscow, 156–157 naya), 227 Internet access, 79 Kamenny Island (Kamenny Krestovsky Island 329 Moscow, 305 Ostrov; St. Petersburg), 260 (Krestovsky Ostrov; St. Petersburg, 309 Karma Bar (Moscow), 185 St. Petersburg), 260 InTouch USA, 78 Katarina (St. Petersburg), 279 Krestovsky Sports Complex Intourist Kazan Cathedral (Kazansky (St. Petersburg), 266 Moscow, 52, 156 Sobor; St. Petersburg), Kronshtadt, 300–301 Sergiev Posad, 193 254–255, 267 Kronshtadt Museum of Naval Suzdal and Vladimir, 196 KGB (Committee of State History, 301 Ireland Security), 17 Krylov, Ivan, 152 embassy of, 305 Khodorkovsky, Mikhail, 10 Kunstkamera (St. Peters- Russian consulate in, 45 Khram Vasiliya Blazhennogo burg), 257 Itineraries, suggested (St. Basil’s Cathedral), 88 Kuskovo estate (Moscow), Moscow, 86–95 Khrapkoff (St. Petersburg), 152 in 1 day, 86–90 288 Kvas, 34 in 2 days, 90–92 Khrushchev, Nikita, 19, 21 in 3 days, 93–95 Kids, 72, 100. See also Circus; St. Petersburg, 209–216 Zoos Labor Day/Spring Festival, Ivan III (The Great), 20 Moscow 41 Ivan IV (Ivan the Terrible), restaurants, 125 Lacquer boxes, 274 12–13, 17, 20 shopping, 171, Ladoga Station (St. Peters- Ivan the Great Bell Tower 175–176 burg), 58 (Moscow), 135 sights and attractions, Laika, 147 Izmailovsky Hotel Complex 154–155 Language, 305–306 (Moscow), 111 St. Petersburg transliteration, 60 Izmailovsky Market accommodations, 219 useful terms and phrases, (Vernisazh; Moscow), 171 restaurants, 240 314–322 Izmailovsky Park (Moscow), shopping, 278, 280 Language classes, 77 151, 158, 168 Kievan Rus, 11, 12, 30 Lavrushinsky Lane Kievskaya (Moscow), 146 (Moscow), 90 Kitai-Gorod (Moscow), 82 Le Club (Moscow), 187 Jazz and blues (Moscow), Lenin, Vladimir, 21 Moscow, 186–187 76, 153 Leningrad, siege of, 250 St. Petersburg, 289 Kolomenskoye (Peredelkino), The Lenin monument Jazz festivals, St. Petersburg 203 (Moscow), 145 Autumn Marathon Jazz Konyushenny Dvor (St. Lenin’s Mausoleum (Mavzolei Festival, 286 Petersburg), 288 Lenina; Moscow), 142 White Nights Jazz festival, Kotelnicheskaya apartment Lenta (St. Petersburg), 278 281 building (1 Kotelniches- Lermontov, Mikhail, 27 Jazz Philharmonic Hall (St. kaya Naberezhnaya; House Museum Petersburg), 289 Moscow), 53 (Moscow), 154 Jet lag, 50 Krasnaya Ploshchad (Red Linens, Moscow, 174 Jewelry Square; Moscow), 82, 88 Liquor laws, 306 Moscow, 174 accommodations around, Liteiny Bridge (St. Peters- St. Petersburg, 279 97–101 burg), 61 JFC (St. Petersburg), 289 restaurants around, Literature, 26–30 Jimi Hendrix Blues Club (St. 117–121 Little Vera (film), 29 Petersburg), 289 sights and attractions Liverpool (St. Petersburg), Jogging around, 139–142 288 Moscow, 158 Krasnaya Presnya Tower Lodging, 79–81. See also St. Petersburg, 265 (Moscow), 53 Accommodations Index Journeywoman, 72 The Kremlin best, 5–6 Julian calendar, 16 Moscow , 82, 89 environmentally-friendly, JVL (Moscow), 187 accommodations 74 around, 97–101 Moscow, 96–113 restaurants around, Arbat, 107–108 Kalinka Stockmann (St. 117–121 around the Kremlin Petersburg), 278 sights and attractions, and Red Square, Kamennoostrovsky Palace 135–139 97–101 (St. Petersburg), 260 Suzdal, 197 “foreigner tax,” 102 330 Lodging (cont.) Mandelstam, Osip, 255 Moiseyev Ballet (Moscow), near the airport, 113 Maps, websites, 43 179 outside the Garden Marble Bridge (Tsarskoye M-111 (St. Petersburg), 292 Ring, 110–113 Tselo), 297 Money and costs, 64–66 Petrovka and the Mariinsky Theater (formerly Money Honey/City Club (St. Ukrainian Quarter, Kirov Theater; St. Peters- Petersburg), 288 104–106 burg), 214, 283, 286 Mono (St. Petersburg), 291 prostitution, 105 Market Square (Rynochnaya Monopol (St. Petersburg), 280 south of Moscow River, Ploshchad; Vyborg), 302 Monorail, Moscow, 54 108–110 Marly Palace (Peterhof), 294 Monplaisir (Peterhof), 294 Tverskaya and envi- Maslenitsa (Butter Week), 40 Monrepos Park (Vyborg), 302 rons, 101–104 Master and Margarita Monument to Victims of in package tours, 77 (Bulgakov), 152 Soviet Repressions (Mos- Peredelkino, 202–203 MasterCard traveler’s cow), 162 rates, 96 checks, 66 Morozovskaya Children’s St. Petersburg, 217–231 Matryoshka nesting dolls, Hospital (Moscow), 305 around The Hermitage, 169 Moscow Art Theater, 184 218–222 Mavzolei Lenina (Lenin’s Moscow Circus Named after floor monitors (dezhur- Mausoleum; Moscow), 142 Y. Nikulin (Tsentralny naya), 227 Mayakovskaya (Moscow), Tsirk), 155 landing the best room, 146 Moscow Conservatory (Kon- 224 Mayakovsky, Vladimir, 27 servatoria; Moscow), 182 Lower Nevsky to MedicAlert identification Moscow Cultural Fund, 171 Smolny Cathedral, tag, 69 Moscow Doesn’t Believe in 225–227 Medical requirements for Tears (film), 29 near the airport, entry, 47 Moscow International Film 230–231 MedjetAssist, 68 Festival, 190 South of Nevsky, Medny Vsadnik (Bronze , 52–54 227–229 Horseman; St. Petersburg), Moscow Operetta Theater, Upper Nevsky Pros- 259–261 179 pekt, 222–225 Medvedev, Dmitry, 21 Moscow Service for the Vasilevsky Island & Memorial Museum of the Preservation of Cultural The Petrograd Leningrad Siege (St. Peters- Property, 46 Side, 229–230 burg), 256–257 Moscow Shipping Company, Suzdal, 198 Metelitsa-Cherry Casino 156 Vladimir, 198 (Moscow), 190 , 53 Lomonosov Porcelain Metro Moscow Taxi, 50 Factory, 277 Moscow, 52–54, 146 The Moscow Times, 52, 177, Losiny Ostrov (Moscow), 156 St. Petersburg, 61–62 185, 306 Lower Nevsky Prospekt (St. Metro Museum (Moscow), Moscow Zoo (Zoopark), 155 Petersburg), restaurants, 146 Moskovsky (Moscow) Station 241 Mikhail I, 20 (St. Petersburg), 58 Lubyanka (Moscow), 92, 162 Mikhail Lermontov House (Moscow), 170 Luzhniki Sports Complex Museum (Moscow), 154 MossRehab, 71 (Moscow), 159 Mikhailovsky Castle & Gar- Movies, Moscow, 190 dens (Mikhailovsky Zamok; MTS, 78 St. Petersburg), 214 Museum of Arctic and Ant- Magrib (St. Petersburg), Mikhailovsky Castle & Gar- arctic (Muzei Arktiki I 288 dens (St. Petersburg), 268 Antarktiki; St. Petersburg), Mail, 306. See also Post Mikhail Romanov, 13 257 offices Minayev, Sergei, 30 Museum of Armed Forces Maltevsky Rynok (Ulitsa Mir space station, 147 (Moscow), 148 Nekrasova; St. Petersburg), Mobility-Advisor.com, 71 Museum of Cosmonautics 275 Modest Charm of the Bour- (Moscow), 146, 148 Maly Theater (Moscow), geoisie (Skromnoye Oboy- Museum of GULAG History 183–184 aniye Burzhuazi; Moscow), (Muzei Istorii GULAG; Maly Theater (St. Peters- 185 Moscow), 148 burg), 283 Moika (St. Petersburg), 209 Museum of History and Art (Sergiev Posad), 194 Museum of Modern Art Naval Cathedral (Kro- Nightwatch (film), 29 331 (Novaya Tretyakovka; nshtadt), 301 Nikolayevsky Palace (St. Moscow), 149–150 Naval History, Kronshtadt Petersburg), 283 Museum of Musical Instru- Museum of, 301 Nikolsky Old Believers’ Com- ments (St. Petersburg), 258 Neighborhoods mune (Nikolskoye Staroo- Museum of Private Collec- Moscow, 82–83 bryadtsoye Kladbishche; tions (Moscow), 149 St. Petersburg, 204–208 Moscow), 144 The Museum of the Romanov Nesting dolls, 169 Nostalgia (film), 29 Boyars (Moscow), 160, 162 Nevskiye Berega (St. Peters- Novaya Tretyakovka (New Museum of Wooden Architec- burg), 278 Tretyakov Gallery/Museum ture and Peasant Life Nevsky Prospekt (St. Peters- of Modern Art; Moscow), (Suzdal), 198 burg), 204, 210, 274 149–150 Museums New Holland (Novaya & best, 8 Gollandiya; St. Petersburg), Cemetery (Novodevichy websites, 42 205 Monastyr i Kladbishche; Museum stores, Moscow, 174 New Moscow Circus (Novy Moscow), 93, 143 Music Tsirk), 155 Novokuznetskaya (Moscow), classical, 26 New Opera (Novaya Opera; 146 Moscow, 182–183 Moscow), 183 Novoslobodskaya (Moscow), St. Petersburg, Newspapers and magazines 146 283, 286 Moscow, 306 Now, Voyager, 70 club and music scene St. Petersburg, 309 Moscow, 184–187 New Tretyakov Gallery/ St. Petersburg, Museum of Modern Art Obrazstov Puppet Theater 287–290 (Novaya Tretyakovka; (Kukolny Teatr; Moscow), folk and alternative Moscow), 149–150 155 Moscow, 187 New Year, “Old,” 39–40 Offense, avoiding, 25 St. Petersburg, 289 New Year’s Day, 39 Ofitserskoye Sobraniye International House of New Year’s Eve, 40–41 (Peterhof), 296 Music (Mezhdunarodny New Year’s Festival (St. Okhotny Ryad (Moscow) Dom Muzyki; Moscow), Petersburg), 286 89,169, 172 182 New Zealand customs regu- Old Believers, 144 jazz and blues, Moscow, lations, 47 Old Believers’ Commune, 186–187 Nicholas I, 20 Nikolsky (Nikolskoye rock and pop Nicholas II, Czar, 15, 16, Staroobryadtsoye Klad- Moscow, 186 20–21, 32, 252 bishche; Moscow), 144 St. Petersburg, 288 Nightlife “Old” New Year, 39–40 Musical Instruments, Moscow, 177–191 Old Vyborg district, 302 Museum of (St. Peters- all-night establish- Olimpiisky Sports Complex burg), 258 ments, 178 (Moscow), 159 Music stores bars, 188 Olivia, 71 Moscow, 175 club and music scene, Onegin (St. Petersburg), 288 St. Petersburg, 279 184–187 Opera, 26 Mussorgsky Theater (St. gay and lesbian, Moscow, 183 Petersburg), 283, 286 188–189 St. Petersburg, 286 Muzei Izobratitelnykh nightclubs and caba- Orthodox Christianity, 12 Isskustv imeni Pushkina ret, 187 Ostankino mansion (Mos- (Pushkin Museum of Fine performing arts, cow), 152 Arts; Moscow), 93, 149 178–184 Ostrovsky Square (Ploshchad Muzei Kosmonavtiki tickets, 177 Ostrovskogo; St. Peters- (Museum of Cosmonautics; St. Petersburg, 281–292 burg), 214, 261 Moscow), 146–148 bars, 290 Our Lady of Smolensk, club and music scene, Cathedral of (Moscow), 143 287–290 Out & About (magazine), 71 Nabokov, Vladimir, 27–28 gay and lesbian, 291 Outdoor activities, Museum (St. Petersburg), nightclubs and caba- Moscow, 156–158 263 ret, 289–290 St. Petersburg, 265–266 National Historical Museum performing arts, (Nationalny Istorichesky 282–287 Muzei; Moscow), 142 332 Petrovich (Moscow), 188 The Polytechnical Museum Package tours, 75–77 Petrovka district (Moscow), 82 (Moscow), 162 Palace of Soviets (Moscow), 53 accommodations, 104–106 Porcelain and china Palace Square (Dvortsovaya restaurants, 125–129 Moscow, 171 Ploshchad; St. Petersburg), (St. St. Petersburg, 277 204, 209, 267 Petersburg), 267 Post offices restaurants, 234–235 Pharmacies, 306, 309 Moscow, 306 sights and attractions Philharmonic, Shostakovich St. Petersburg, 309 around, 251–253 (St. Petersburg), 269, 286 Prescription medications, 69 Panda and Kartathena (St. Picnics, Moscow, 128 Prestige (St. Petersburg), 310 Petersburg), 291 Pink Taxi, 50 Prisoner of the Caucasus Panteleimonovsky (St. Piskarevo Park and Memorial (film), 29 Petersburg), 276 Cemetery (Prospekt Progonnaya Ulitsa (Vyborg), Paragliding, 266 Nepokorionnikh; 302 Parks and gardens St. Petersburg), 262 Project OGI (Moscow), 187 Moscow, 150–152 Pivnaya Birzha (St. Peters- Prokhodimets Beerhouse St. Petersburg, 259 burg), 290 (St. Petersburg), 290 Passage (St. Petersburg), 275 Pivnaya Bochka (St. Peters- Propaganda (Moscow), Passport (magazine), 177 burg), 290 185, 189 Pasternak House Museum Planeta Fitness Prospekt Nepokorionnikh (Peredelkino), 202 Moscow, 156 (Piskarevo Park and Memo- Patriarch’s Palace (Moscow), St. Petersburg, 265 rial Cemetery; St. Peters- 137 Planning your trip, 38–81 burg), 262 Patriarch’s Ponds (Patriar- academic trips and lan- Prostitution in Moscow, 105 shiye Prudy; Moscow), guage classes, 77 Pryalka (St. Petersburg), 278 151–152, 156 accommodations, 79–81 Pulkovo-1 Airport (St. Peters- Patriarshy Dom Tours (Mos- calendar of events, 39–44 burg), 58 cow), 155, 193, 196, 201 customs regulations, Puppet theaters, Moscow, Paul’s Library (Pavlovsk), 299 45–47 154, 155 Pavlovsk, 298–300 entry requirements, 44–47 Pushkin (Tsarskoye Tselo), Pechatnaya (St. Petersburg), escorted general-interest 296–298 277 tours, 75 Pushkin, Alexander, 14, 26, Pelevin, Viktor, 30, 31 getting around Russia, 30, 261 Pelmeni, 34 56–57 Pushkin Apartment Museum Peredelkino, 201–203 health concerns, 67–69 (Moscow), 154 Perekhods (underground money and costs, 64–66 Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts walkways), 56 package tours, 75–77 (Muzei Izobratitelnykh Performing arts, 25–26 specialized travel Isskustv imeni Pushkina; Moscow, 178–184 resources, 70–73 Moscow), 93, 149 St. Petersburg, 282 sustainable tourism, 73–75 Pushkinskaya 10 (St. Peters- Peter and Paul Cathedral (St. Suzdal and Vladimir, 196 burg), 258, 277 Petersburg), 252, 283 traveling to Moscow, 48, Pushkin Square (Moscow), 86 Peter & Paul Fortress (Pet- 50–56 Pushkin Square (Pushkins- ropavlovskaya Krepost; when to go, 38–39 kaya Ploshchad; Moscow), St. Petersburg), 210, 252 Ploshchad Isskustv (Square 92 Peterburgsky Sport Complex of the Arts), 204, 212, 261 Putin, Vladimir, 10, 11, 17, (St. Petersburg), 267 restaurants, 239–240 21, 22 Peterhof Palace and Park Ploshchad Ostrovskogo Pyatnitskaya Street (Mos- (Petrodvorets), 215, 281, (Ostrovsky Square; St. cow), 168 293, 295 Petersburg), 214, 261 The Pyramid (Tsarskoye Peter I (the Great), 13, 20, 24, Ploshchad Revolutsii Tselo), 297 60, 205, 208 (Moscow), 146 Petersburg Taxi (St. Peters- Pokrovsky Convent (Suzdal), burg), 62 197 uo Vadis (St. Petersburg), Monument Q Police 309 (Moscow), 93, 95 Moscow, 306 The Petrograd Side (St. St. Petersburg, 309 Petersburg), 208 Police Relay Race (Moscow), asputin, Grigory, 15, 144 accommodations, 229–230 R 154 The Real McCoy (Moscow), restaurants, 244–246 188 Red Channel at airport Cus- buffets, 233 The Russian Museum (Russky 333 toms, 45 by cuisine, 232–234 Muzei; St. Petersburg), 212, Red Fox Jazz Club (St. Peters- family-friendly, 240 258, 268–269 burg), 289 Lower Nevsky Prospekt Russian Orthodox Christmas, Red Lion (St. Petersburg), up to Smolny Cathe- 39 290 dral, 241–242 Russian Orthodox icons, 165 Red Square (Krasnaya Square of the Arts up Russian Tours, 75 Ploshchad; Moscow), 82, 88 to Summer Gardens, Russian Travel Service, 81 accommodations around, 239–240 Russian Winter Festival 97–101 tea traditions, 234 (Moscow), 178 restaurants around, Upper Nevsky Pros- Russkaya Piramida (Moscow), 117–121 pekt, 235–239 189 sights and attractions Vasilevsky Island & The Russkaya Starina (St. Peters- around, 139–142 Petrograd Side, burg), 276 Red Staircase (Moscow), 136 244–246 Russkaya Vyshyvka (Mos- Reed, John, 30 Sergiev Posad, 194–195 cow), 174 Regional Medical Unit no. 20 Suzdal, 199 (St. Petersburg), 309 Vladimir, 199 Rent-a Bike (St. Petersburg), Vyborg, 303 Safety and Security for 265 Restrooms, 309–310 Women Who Travel, 72 Repentance (film), 29 Revolution Museum Safety concerns, 69 Reservations, restaurant, 121 (Moscow), 146 St. Basil’s Cathedral (Khram Respiratory illnesses, 68 Rizopolozhensky Monastery Vasiliya Blazhennogo or Responsible Travel, 74 (Suzdal), 197 Pokrovsky Sobor; Moscow), Restaurants, 34. See also RoadPost, 78 88, 139, 142, 160 Restaurants Index Rock and pop music St. George’s Church Arkhangelskoye, 201 Moscow, 186 (Moscow), 162 best, 6–7 St. Petersburg, 288 St. Isaac’s Cathedral (Isaakev- environmentally-friendly, Rolf- (St. Petersburg), 62 sky Sobor; St. Petersburg), 74 Romanov Boyars, Museum of 210, 255 Kronshtadt, 301 the (Moscow), 160, 162 St. Petersburg Bus Station, menu terms, 31, 34 Rosie O’Grady’s (Moscow), 58 Moscow, 114–133, 184 188 St. Petersburg Chamber Arbat, 130–131 Rossi’s (St. Petersburg), 288 Opera, 287 around Red Square Rossi Street (Ulitsa Zodchego St. Petersburg Circus (Tsirk), and The Kremlin, Rossi; St. Petersburg), 261 264 117–121 Route taxis, Moscow, 56 St. Petersburg Conservatory, business lunches, 115 Rurik, 20 283, 286 by cuisine, 115–116 Russia Info-Center, 77 St. Petersburg History family-friendly, 125 Russia Journal, 177, 306 Museum, 256–257 beyond the Garden Russiana, 75 St. Petersburg Metro, 61–62 Ring, 131–133 Russian Air Force Museum St. Petersburg Mosque Petrovka and the (Moscow), 148–149 (Mechet; St. Petersburg), Ukrainian Quarter, Russian Cruises (St. Peters- 255–256 125–129 burg), 264, 294 The St. Petersburg Times, 60, reservations, 121 Russian Gateway, 75 282, 309 sushi, 123 Russian Holiday (St. Peters- St. Petersburg Zoo, 264 Tverskaya and envi- burg), 264 St. Theodore Stratilites, rons, 121–124 Russian Icon (St. Petersburg), Church of (Moscow), 163 vegetarian, 117 279 Salons, 306–307, 310 Zamoskvarechye, Russian Independence Samolyot (Airplane; Mos- 129–130 Day, 43 cow), 190 Pavlovsk, 299–300 Russian language, 305–306 Samotsvety (Moscow), 174 Peterhof (Petrodvorets), transliteration, 60 Samson (Peterhof), 295–296 useful terms and phrases, 294, 296 St. Petersburg, 232–246 314–322 Sandunovskiye Banyi (Mos- around Palace Square cow), 157 and The Hermitage, 234–235 334 SATH (Society for Accessible Tsarskoye Tselo (Push- South of Nevsky (St. Peters- Travel & Hospitality), 71 kin), 296–298 burg), restaurants, Savior on the Spilled Blood, Vyborg, 301–303 242–244 Church of the (Tserkov Spa- , 250 Soviet Russia (Soviet era), sitelya Na Krovi; St. Peters- Sights and attractions 17–19 burg), 212, 254, 268 Moscow, 134–163 Moscow sights and attrac- Scandinavia (St. Petersburg), aristocratic estates, tions, 145–148 309 152–153 Space exploration, 147 Sedmoi Kontinent (Moscow), around Red Square, Spartacus International Gay 172 139–142 Guide, 71 Seleznyovskiye Banyi cathedrals, monaster- Spaso-Andronnikov Monas- (Moscow), 157 ies and convents, tery (Moscow), 145 Senior travel, 72–73 143–145 Special events and festivals, Serebryanny Bor (Silvery for kids, 154–155 39–44 Islet; Moscow), 151 The Kremlin, 135–139 Spectator sports Sergiev Posad, 193–195 literary sights, 153–154 Moscow, 158–159 Seventeen Instants of Spring major museums, St. Petersburg, 266–267 (film), 29 148–150 Sport Line Club (Moscow), Severnaya Lira (St. Peters- organized tours, 190 burg), 279 155–156 Sputnik, 147 Shakespeare and Co. parks and gardens, Spying and spy agencies, 17 (Moscow), 170 150–152 Square of the Arts Shamrock Bar (St. Peters- St. Petersburg, 247–271 (Ploshchad Isskustv; St. burg), 290 around Palace Square, Petersburg), 204, 212, 261 Shangri-La (Moscow), 190 251–253 restaurants, 239–240 Shapka Monomakha (Crown cathedrals, monaster- Stalin, Josef, 17–18, 21, 32 of Monomakh; Moscow), ies & more, 253–256 World War II bunker 136 for kids, 264 (Peredelkino), 203 Shchusev Museum of Archi- literary sights, 262–263 “Stalin Gothic” architecture, tecture (Moscow), 53 major museums, 53 Sheremetevo-1, 51 256–258 Stanislavsky Nemirovich- Sheremetevo-2 Airport, monuments, memori- Danchenko Theater 48, 50 als and squares, (Moscow), 179, 183 Shoes, size conversions 259–262 Star City (Peredelkino), 203 for, 36, 37 organized tours, 264 Stars of the White Nights Shopping parks and gardens, 259 (St. Petersburg), 281 best gifts to bring home, Silvery Islet (Serebryanny State Academic Kapella 8–9 Bor; Moscow), 151 (St. Petersburg), 286 Moscow, 164–176 Sinners (Greshniki; St. Peters- The State Hermitage shopping centers, burg), 291 Museum (St. Petersburg), 168–169 Skiing 209 St. Petersburg, 271–280 Moscow, 158 State Kremlin Palace Shostakovich Philharmonic St. Petersburg, 266 (Moscow), 179 (St. Petersburg), 269, 286 Slippers (bakhili), 154 Stoma (St. Petersburg), 308 Side trips Smoking, 307 Street food, St. Petersburg, from Moscow, 192–203 Smolny Cathedral and Con- 238 Arkhangelskoye, vent (Smolny Sobor; St. Study Russian, 77 199–201 Petersburg), 256, 286 Summer, 38–39 Peredelkino, 201–203 Soccer Summer Palace & Gardens Sergiev Posad, Moscow, 159 (Letny Dvorets, Letny Sad; 193–195 St. Petersburg, 267 St. Petersburg), 76, 204, Suzdal and Vladimir, Society for Accessible Travel 214, 259, 281 195–199 & Hospitality (SATH), 71 restaurants, 239–240 from St. Petersburg, Sohorooms (Moscow), 186 Sustainable tourism, 73–75 293–303 Solaris (film), 29 Sustainable Travel Interna- Kronshtadt, 300–301 Solzhenitsyn, Alexander, tional, 74 Pavlovsk, 298–300 28–29 Sustain Lane, 74 Peterhof (Petrod- South of Nevsky, St. Peters- Suzdal, 195–199 vorets), 293–296 burg, accommodations, Synagogue (St. Petersburg), 227–229 256 Tour Vacations To Go, 76 335 Tabakov Theater Studio Toy Museum (Sergiev Posad), Ukrainian Quarter (Mos- (Moscow), 184 194 cow), 82 Tatyana Parfionova (St. Toys accommodations, 104–106 Petersburg), 278 Moscow, 175–176 The Ukrainian Quarter, res- Taurida Gardens (Tavr- St. Petersburg, 280 taurants, 125–129 ichesky Sad; St. Peters- Train travel, 51, 56–57 Uncle Sam’s Billiard Bar and burg), 259, 281 St. Petersburg, 58 Cafe (Moscow), 189 Taxes, 307 Trams United Kingdom St. Petersburg, 310 Moscow, 54 consulate of (St. Peters- Taxi Blues, 50 St. Petersburg, 62 burg), 309 Taxi Park (St. Petersburg), 62 Transfiguration, Church of customs regulations, 47 Taxis the (Peredelkino), 202 embassy of, 305 Moscow, 50 Transportation gay and lesbian travelers, route taxis, 56 Moscow, 52–55 71 St. Petersburg, 58, 62 Sergiev Posad, 193 green travel, 74 Tchaikovsky, Pyotr, 14 Suzdal and Vladimir, 196 health-related travel Tchaikovsky Competition Traveler’s checks, 65–66 advice, 67 (Moscow), 178 Travel Health Online, 67 Russian consulate in, 45 Tchaikovsky Concert Hall Traveling, to Moscow, 48, for seniors and persons (Kontsertny Zal Im. Tchai- 50–56 with disabilities, 72 kovskogo; Moscow), TravelWithYourKids.com, 72 United States 182–183 Tread Lightly, 74 consulate of (St. Peters- Telephone, 307–308 Tretyakov Gallery (Tretya- burg), 309 Temperatures, average, 39 kovskaya Galereya; customs regulations, 46, 47 Ten Days That Shook the Moscow), 90, 148–149 embassy of, 45, 305 World (Reed), 30 shopping, 174 health-related travel Tennis tournaments Tretyakovsky Proyezd advice, 67 Moscow, 159 (Moscow), 165 Russian consulate in, 45 St. Petersburg, 267 Tri El (Three Ls; St. Peters- Upper Nevsky Prospekt (St. Terem Palace (Moscow), 136 burg), 291 Petersburg) Terrorism, 69 Trinity, Cathedral of the accommodations, 222–225 Theater (Sergiev Posad), 194 restaurants, 235–239 Moscow, 183–184 Trinity Monastery of St. Ser- UPS, 165, 306 St. Petersburg, 287 gius (Troitse-Sergiyevo US Dental Care (Moscow), 304 Theater Square (Teatralnaya Lavra), 193 Ploshchad; Moscow), 89–90 Triumph Palace (Moscow), 53 Room (Pavlovsk), 299 Troitskiy Bridge (St. Peters- Valentin Yudashkin Trading , 13 burg), 61 House (Moscow), 173 Time Online (Moscow), 305 Trolley buses Vareniki, 34 Time zones, 308, 310 Moscow, 54 Vasilevsky Island (Vasilevsky Tinkoff (St. Petersburg), 290 St. Petersburg, 62 Ostrov; St. Petersburg), 208 Tipping, 308 Tsaritsino estate (Moscow), accommodations, 229–230 Tolstaya, Tatyana, 30 153 restaurants, 244–246 Tolstoy, Leo, 14, 27, 30 Tsarskoye Tselo (Pushkin), Vermel (Moscow), 187 Tolstoy House Museum 296–298 Vernisazh (St. Petersburg), (Moscow), 153 Tsentr Design (St. Peters- 274, 279, 280 Tomb of the Unknown Sol- burg), 279 Victory Day, 42 dier (Moscow), 142 TsUM (Moscow), 169, 172 Victory Park (Park Pobedy; Tourism Concern, 74 Tuchkov Bridge (St. Peters- Moscow), 151, 158 Tourist information burg), 61 Victory Park (Park Pobedy; Moscow, 52 Tverskaya, restaurants, St. Petersburg), 259 St. Petersburg, 60 121–124 Visas, 44 websites, 42–43 (Moscow), St. Petersburg, 64 Tours, organized 82, 89, 92, 165 websites, 43 escorted general-interest, accommodations around, Visa traveler’s checks, 66 75 101–104 Visitor information Moscow, 155–156 Twelve Apostles, Cathedral Moscow, 52 package, 75–77 of the (Moscow), 137 St. Petersburg, 60 St. Petersburg, 264 websites, 42–43 336 Vladimir, 195–199 The Worker and Collective Hilton Moscow Leningrads- Vladimir I, Grand Prince, Farmer (Moscow), 145 kaya, 110–111 12, 20 World Trade Center Holiday Inn Lesnaya, 103 Vladimirsky Passage (St. (Moscow), 304 Holiday Inn Vinogradovo, Petersburg), 276 World War II, 18, 42 110 Vladimirsky Rynok Stalin’s bunker (Peredel- Hotel Sokol (Suzdal), 198 (Kuznechny Pereulok; St. kino), 203 Le Royal Meridien National, Petersburg), 275 Tomb of the Unknown 97, 100 Vnukovo airport (near Soldier (Moscow), 142 Likhoninsky House (Suzdal), Moscow), 51 198 Vodka and wines, 32–34 Marco Polo Presnja, 101 Moscow, 176 Yelagin Island (Yelaginsky Metropol, 100–101 St. Petersburg, 280 Ostrov), 260 Mir, 108 Vodka Museum (St. Peters- Yelagin Palace Museum Novotel, 113 burg), 33 (St. Petersburg), 260 Ozerkovskaya, 109–110 Vodokhod company Yeltsin, Boris, 21, 22, 32 Patriarch’s Ponds, 102 (Dvortsovaya Naberezh- Yubileiny Sports Palace Pekin, 103 naya; St. Petersburg), 264, (St. Petersburg), 266 Pokrovskaya Hotel (Suzdal), 294 Yusupov Palace (Arkhangels- 198 Volodarskiy Bridge (St. koye), 200 Polesye, 106 Petersburg), 61 Yuvelirny Center (Moscow), President Hotel, 109 Vologodsky Len (Moscow), 174 Radisson SAS Slavyanskaya, 174 Yves Rocher (Moscow), 307 107 Volunteer travel, 74 Ritz-Carlton, 100 Vyborg, 301–303 Russian Village (Russkaya Vyborg Castle, 302 Zaichy Ostrov (Hare’s Island; Derevnya; Vladimir), 198 Vysotka (Moscow), 190 St. Petersburg), 252 Savoy, 101 Zakuski, 242 Sheraton Palace, 102–103 Zamoskvarechye (land south Sovietsky Hotel, 111 Walking tours of the Moscow River), Sretenka, 105 Moscow, 160–163 83, 92 Sverchkov, 106 St. Petersburg, 267–270 restaurants, 129–130 Tsentralnaya, 103–104 Water, drinking, St. Peters- Zoos Varshava, 110 burg, 62, 67 Moscow (Zoopark), 155 Vega, 112 Wax Museum (Suzdal), 198 St. Petersburg, 264 Villa Peredelkino, 202 Websites, 42–43 Volga Hotel, 106 health-related travel Zolotoye Koltso, 107 advice, 67 ACCOMMODATIONS— The Wedding (film), 29 MOSCOW AND Whale and Dolphin Conser- ACCOMMODATIONS— ENVIRONS vation Society, 74 ST. PETERSBURG Wheelchair accessibility, Akademicheskaya, 109 AND ENVIRONS 71–72 Akvarel, 104 White Days (St. Petersburg), Alpha, 111 Alexander House, 219, 286 Ararat Park Hyatt, 97 227–228 White Days Festival (St. Arbat, 107 Ambassador Hotel, 222–223 Petersburg), 44 Baltschug Kempinski, Angleterre, 218–219 White Nights, 43–44 108–109 Arbat Nord, 225 White Nights Jazz festival Belgrade, 108 Astoria, 218 (St. Petersburg), 281 Budapest, 104 Bed and Breakfast, 226 where to go during, Cosmos, 111–112 Corinthia Nevsky Palace, 281–282 Domodedovo Aerohotel, 113 219, 222 Wi-Fi access, 79 East-West Hotel, 101 Dostoyevsky Hotel, 228 Winter, 39 Galina’s Flat, 105–106 Fifth Corner, (Pyaty Ugol), The (St. Peters- Gamma-Delta, 112 219, 228 burg), 251, 267 G&R Hostels, 112–113 Grand Hotel Europe, 223 Women travelers, 72 Globus, 112 Herzen House, 219, 222 Wooden Architecture and Golden Apple, 104–105 Hotels on Nevsky, 223–224 Peasant Life, Museum of Golden Ring Hotel (Vladi- (Suzdal), 198 mir), 198 Kristoff, 228–229 Okhotny Ryad Shopping Cafe Slavyanka (Pavlovsk), 337 Marco Polo, 229 Center, 121 299 Marshal, 225 Parizhsk, 131 Cafe Tsarskoye Tselo, 298 Moskva, 226 Pavilion, 163 Chainaya Lozhka, 239 Nevsky Forum, 225 Pavilion at Patriarshy, 122 Corinthia Nevsky Palace, 240 Nevsky Prospekt Bed and Poslednaya Kaplya, 124 Cote Jardin, 233 Breakfast, 224 Prisoner of the Caucasus, 132 Face Café, 239 Oktyabrskaya, 226 Rakhat-Lukum, 127 Flying Dutchman, 244 Piter, 230 Red Square, 117 Glyanets, 238 Pribaltiyskaya, 229–230 Rostik’s, 124, 125 Great Column Hall (Bolshoi Pulford Apartments, 222 Russkaya Skazka (Sergiev Kolonny Zal; Pavlovsk), 299 Pulkovskaya, 230–231 Posad), 195 Hermitage Cafe, 235 Radisson SAS Royal, 223 Russky Dvorik (Sergiev Idiot, 244 Rossiya, 229 Posad), 194–195 ...ILI..., 214 Rus, 227 Sheraton Palace, 125 Imperatorsky Stol (Peterhof), St. Petersburg, 230 Shesh-Besh, 129 215, 295 Shinok, 132 Karavan, 243 Shokoladnitsa, 130 Kavkaz Bar, 241 RESTAURANTS— Sobornaya Ploshchad Kilikia, 242–243 MOSCOW AND (Vladimir), 199 Kruglaya Bashnya (Vyborg), Starlite Diner, 123–125 303 ENVIRONS Stary Gorod (Vladimir), 199 Lenin Lives (Lenin Zhiv), 240 Aristocrat, 125–126 Sudar, 132 Literaturnoye Café, 209, 238 Arkhangelskoye Restaurant, Sushi Vyosla, 120 Lucky Shot (Udachny 201 Tandoor, 124 Vystrel), 235, 238 Baba Marta, 130 Taras Bulba-Korchma, 127 NEP, 234 Bosco Bar, 89, 120 Tchaikovsky Concert Hall Ob’ekt, 287 Café Posadskoye (Sergiev restaurants, 124 Ofitserskoye Sobraniye Posad), 195 TGI Friday’s, 125 (Peterhof), 296 Cafe Pushkin, 92, 121–122 Traktir Kupechesky, 128–129 Palkin, 235 Carre Blanc, 131 Trapeznaya (Suzdal), 199 Park Giuseppe, 239, 268 Correa’s, 133 Turandot, 122 Pelmeny Bar, 238–239 Delifrance, 124 Uncle Vanya, 90, 129–130 Podvorye (Pavlovsk), 300 Donna Clara, 123 Vanil, 95, 130 Porto Maltese, 242 Drova, 128 White Sun of the Desert, 127 Restoran, 244–245 Durdin, 133 Yar, 132–133 Russkaya Rybalka, 240, 245 Expeditsiya, 126 Yolki-Palki, 124, 125 Russky Kitsch, 246 FAQCafe, 120 Yugos, 133 7:40 (Sem Sorok), 246 Genatsvale, 130–131 Sevilla Restaurant, 233 Gogol, 128 Standart (Peterhof), 295 Grilyazh, 129 RESTAURANTS— Staraya Bashnya (Old Tower; Il Patio, 123, 125 ST. PETERSBURG Tsarskoye Tselo), 298 Kharchevnya (Suzdal), 199 Staraya Tamozhnya, 245 Kitezh, 126 AND ENVIRONS Stary Gorod (Old Town; Kovcheg Hotel (Sergiev Admiralty (Admiralteistvo; Kronshtadt), 301 Posad), 195 Tsarskoye Tselo), 298 Stray Dog Cellar (Podval Krem, 120 Akademiya, 245–246 Brodyachy Sobaki), Kremlyovsky Cafe, 121 Atlantik (Vyborg), 303 212, 240 Mama Zoya, 131 Backstage (Za Kulisom), 235 Tinkoff, 243 Mama Zoya on the Water, 93 Bagration, 241 Triton, 242 McDonald’s, 125 Bierstube, 233 Troitsky Most (Trinity Metropol, 90, 117 Black Cat, White Cat, 241 Bridge), 246 Na Melnitse, 126–127 BlinDonalt’s, 240, 243–244 Noah’s Ark, 126 NOTES NOTES NOTES NOTES NOTES