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Home , Ayutthaya Kingdom, Chai (king of Ayutthaya), Chao Phraya River, Prang (architecture), Thailand

DISCOVER

!" D ISCOVERY JULY !"#$ by CYNTHIA ROSENFELD

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Take a leisurely cruise up the and step back in time to the ancient former Thai capital of Ayutthaya

During its heyday, three and than 400 gilded , including the Yai Mongkol, made Ayutthaya a glittering sight 400 DISCOVER THAILAND

FTER THE morning mists rise but before the equatorial heat descends, wooden barges begin their journey north up Thailand’s Chao Phraya, the River of . They meander past the shimmering magnificence of ’s Grand and stark beauty of , the of Dawn, before sailing out of Bangkok’s bustling metropolis towards and simple wood houses on stilts above the muddy river. This scenic 70-kilometre trip is something of a journey through time, taking visitors back from Thailand’s mod- ern capital to Ayutthaya, a city founded in 1350. Ayutthaya was established by U-Thong as the second capital of the Kingdom of Siam, after Sukhothai. It held the position for more than 400 years. Also accessible by road and train, the once sleepy island village of Ayutthaya made head- lines in recent years as an international industrial centre, one so important that flooding here in late 2011 brought the Thai economy to a standstill. Trips on these historic barges last about two , with most visitors returning to Bangkok by air-conditioned coach. Travellers who prefer a more drawn-out journey can take a slow boat such as the Earth. Dr Timothy Curtis, Chief of the Culture Unit Anantara Song or the more spacious Anantara Dream, at UNESCO Bangkok, calls Ayutthaya by the end of two vintage barges exquisitely restored and the 16th century “a city, similar in size converted expressly to linger along the river over two and importance to Paris and the other capitals of or three days, with five- guestrooms, exceptional pre-Industrial Revolution Europe”. gastronomy and dedicated guides. Just as importantly, Curtis asserts: “Ayutthaya’s mages The pastoral setting en route belies the grandeur urban planners understood something forgotten I of the . King U-Thong chose here in our modern era, namely how to live with the location for its protected position on a conch- water.” Curtis is referring to the floods of 2011. shaped island formed by a confluence of the Chao “Ayutthaya was placed in the middle of the flood Phraya, Pa Sak and rivers. Its geographic plain deliberately for protection against enemy

position between , and the Malay Archi- attacks by the Burmese.” Getty spread: Previous K.

pelago (what is now , the and This strategy proved successful through the OTH

Indonesia) made this an important hub for , reigns of 33 kings from five as Ayutthaya – etto T Arab and European trade, home to emissaries from flourished, from the 14th to the 18th century, then

the Japanese and Chinese imperial courts as well finally succumbed to the Burmese army in 1767, nvernizzi I as ambassadors from the French Court at Versailles a date that still evokes emotions among patriotic and the Mughal Court in Delhi. Three palaces and Thais. Most temples were demolished, leaving only more than 400 gilded temples led foreign visitors charred brick ruins. The once bustling metropolis

to describe Ayutthaya as the most glittering city on lay utterly abandoned until the 1950s, when the Luca River: Photos.

!# D ISCOVERY JULY !"#$ Temples visible from Chao Phraya River, such as Wat Chai Wattanaram, are indications of Ayutthaya’s former glory

Thai government began excavation work. Ayut- thaya was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991. Boats transporting tourists from Bangkok often make a first morning stop at the 17th-century Bang Pa-In Royal Palace, the royal summer retreat aban- mages I doned in 1767 and later completed by King Chula- longkorn ( V) in 1889. The palace was inspired by Versailles in and is European in style. For the most comprehensive panorama of the Chinese, Baroque, Gothic and Victorian structures enhanced

K. Previous spread: Getty Getty spread: Previous K. by gardens and , head to the top of Ho Withun

OTH Thasana, the Sages’ Lookout, a candy-striped tower

etto – – etto originally used to survey the surroundings for invad- T ing enemies. Across the river, Rama V ordered the

nvernizzi building of Wat Niwet Thammaprawat in 1878 to I resemble an English Gothic cathedral, complete with The Anantara Dream, a vintage teak barge, can be ornate stained-glass windows. This active Buddhist hired for trips on the river lasting several days temple is accessible by a cable car manned by temple

Photos. River: Luca River: Photos. Anantara Dream and strung across the river.

JULY !"#$ D ISCOVERY !$ DISCOVER THAILAND

What’s hot – Bangkok

ORIENTAL RESIDENCE BANGKOK Stylish one- to three-bedroom and studio apartments in the embassy and business www.oriental-residence.com

ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB Cool crowd and spicy flavours from Thai celebrity chef Ian Kittichai www.issaya.com/issaya-club.php

SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN Mural Traditional Thai dishes get an avant-garde twist (above) in the crypt from Danish chef Henrik Yde-Andersen of Wat Ratchaburana depict Ayutthaya www.kempinskibangkok.com court life; Bang Pa-In (right) is a summer SEVEN SPOONS RESTAURANT palace inspired by Industrial-chic gastropub in using Versailles locally sourced ingredients where possible sevenspoonsbkk.wordpress.com () VIVA & AVIV () All-day laid-back lounge with outdoor deck on the Chao Phraya River vivaaviv.com

MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART A collection of some 400 modern Thai artworks amassed over two decades by a local entrepreneur www.mocabangkok.com Continue onward for the short boat ride to SPA The Siam ’s indulgent spa using 100 percent Ayutthaya, an archaeological ruin of soaring chemical-free Sodashi products from reliquary towers and monumentally proportioned www.thesiamhotel.com Buddhist . “These barest of bones and the Chao Phraya River, which is still very impor-

MAISON TAKUYA Photos. Limited/Click gents tant, are the elements that allow one to imagine A

Chic bags, wallets and iPhone and iPad cases ree F handmade from leather and exotic skins how grand Ayutthaya was some 300 or even 500

years ago,” says Christophe Pottier, Director of the eaton/ www.maisontakuya.com H École Française d’Extrême-Orient in Bangkok, For full listings, visit cathaypacific.com/discovery which studies Asian civilisations. allas and John John and allas

A few valuable clues will help the imagination, D n: n: such as the mural paintings in the crypt of Wat I Ratchaburana that depict Ayutthaya court life. This 15th-century shrine was built to commemorate two , who both died while duelling atop Laid-back luxury to determine who would assume the throne. The tock ettoni – Click Photos. Bang Pa- Bang Photos. Click – ettoni S

at the Oriental capital’s great wealth funded its prolific temple T . I Residence building, including , completed Bangkok in 1491 and now Ayutthaya’s most recognisable ruin for its photogenic row of three Buddhist built

to hold the remains of three kings. Another worthy Luca Mural: Photos. tree:Panorama Bodhi stop is the 14th-century Khmer- influenced Wat Mahathat. Once famed for its soaring 40-metre CATHAY PACIFIC tower, this site’s draw now is its Bangkok: !" x Weekly serene Buddha head cosseted by the roots of a holy Bodhi tree. The vast majority of Ayut- 47 thaya’s treasures were stolen, burned or melted down by the Burmese or later by looters. What riches remain are on display at the Chao Sam Phraya Museum in Ayutthaya, including a trove found at Wat Ratch- aburana of Buddha images from , and Java, as well as gem-embellished statues. Seven months after the spectacular sacking of Ayutthaya, the Thai-Chinese General overthrew the Burmese, and became the new king Taksin the Great. He subsequently moved the capital downstream to , opposite Bangkok. When a new capital was established in 1782 on Rattana- Wat Mahathat’s kosin Island in Bangkok under Taksin’s successor main draw is a Buddha head – founder of the current Chakri nestling in – the new royal court hired Ayutthaya’s remaining the roots of a architects and even conferred “Ayutthaya” as part holy Bodhi tree of Bangkok’s formal title. But as one cruises back into Thailand’s modern city, ablaze each night with neon on both sides of the Chao Phraya, one could be forgiven for failing to see any resemblance.

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D #))# n: n: I &"" #! Anantara Song Ho Withun Thasana tock ettoni – Click Photos. Bang Pa- Bang Photos. Click – ettoni S

T Anantara Dream . I Photos. Mural: Luca Mural: Photos. tree:Panorama Bodhi

JULY !"#$ D ISCOVERY !%