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From Disposable to Sustainable Kirsi Niinimäki From Disposable to Sustainable The Complex Interplay between Design and Consumption of Textiles and Clothing. 2011 Aalto University School of Art and Design Aalto University publications series Doctoral Dissertations 84/2011 © Kirsi Niinimäki Graphic Design: Emmi Kyytsönen ISBN 978-952-60-4284-8 (pdf ) ISBN 978-952-60-4283-1 ISSN-L 1799-4934(pdf ) ISSN 1799-4942 (pdf ) ISSN 1799-4934 Printed in Unigrafia Helsinki 2011 1 coat 1 scarf 1 pair of gloves 2 shirts 5 T-shirts 2 pairs of trousers 2 skirts 10 pieces of lingerie 8 pairs of socks 2 pairs of pantyhose 3 pairs of shoes 1 nightdress1 1 All the garments I took with me on a three-month research period in Delft, spring 2010. The idea was to test how little clothing I could manage with for three months. I also aimed for minimum laundering times by letting garments air between wearing. Abstract From disposable to sustainable The Complex Interplay between Design and Consumption of Textiles and Clothing This study approaches the complex interplay of consumption, the meaning of products, and person-product relationships in the context of textiles and clothing. By doing so, it opens novel views into our material world and contemporary con- sumer culture, and it especially shows how consumption patterns are linked to the current industrial system of designing and manufacturing. The purpose of this study is to understand more deeply the balance (or unbal- ance) in Sustainable Consumption and Production, SCP. Drawing on literature from psycho-sociology, sociology, philosophy and economics, the study constructs alternative views to sustainable design. The study explores sustainable textile and clothing design through person-product relationships by approaching them in the light of previous theories and by applying this knowledge to empirical analysis. Three consumer questionnaires were conducted and analyzed to provide informa- tion on consumers’ environmental interest and person-product relationships. This novel consumer-centered knowledge is then transferred onto the design discipline to provide knowledge on human aspects in sustainability. The dissertation is com- prised of seven research articles. This study both extends and narrows the views on sustainable design. First- ly, narrow insight, or knowledge from a more micro perspective, is provided on person-product attachments and consumer satisfaction in the field of textiles and 4 clothing. Deep insights into consumers’ values and environmental interests and commitment are furthermore presented in articles. Secondly the study extends the approach by including the design perspective into the focus of attention, and the human aspects of consumption are especially examined as they pertain to the sus- tainable design field. Hence this research extends previous studies by approaching issues in sustainable design more holistically. The study constructs a theoretical discussion on how to strengthen the person- product relationship through various design strategies or through a Product-Serv- ice System (PSS) approach by either deepening the person-product attachment or better delivering consumer satisfaction. Furthermore the study opens a conceptual discussion on new value creation, which offers opportunities to find new paths towards more sustainable design, manufacturing and consumption of textiles and clothing. Finally, by addressing radical change the study discusses the new value creation that is needed in the SCP agenda. Designers have an important role by creating far-sighted and future-oriented sustainable design, which can change consumption behaviors towards more sus- tainable ones. In this way design for sustainability can be a redirective practice that aims for sustainable consumption. Keywords: Consumption, Sustainable design, Fashion design, Textile design, Per- son-product attachment, Product satisfaction, Value creation 5 Tiivistelmä Kertakäyttöisyydestä kestävyyteen Tekstiilin ja vaatetuksen suunnittelun ja kulutuksen monitasoinen yhteisleikki Tämä tutkimus lähestyy monitasoista kulutuksen, tuotteiden merkitysten ja tuo- tesuhteiden keskinäistä kytkentää tekstiilin ja vaatteiden kontekstissa. Tämän lähestymistavan kautta tutkimus avaa uusia näkökulmia materiaaliseen tavara- maailmaan, kulutuskulttuuriin ja osoittaa, miten nykyinen kestämätön kulutus- käyttäytyminen linkittyy teollisiin suunnittelu- ja valmistuskäytäntöihin. Työn tavoitteena on kestävän kuluttamisen ja tuottamisen tasapainon (tai epä- tasapainon) syvempi ymmärrys. Tutkimus nojaa sosiopsykologian, sosiologian, fi- losofian ja ekonomian näkökulmiin rakentaen niiden kautta vaihtoehtoista ym- märrystä kestävään ja ympäristömyötäiseen tuotesuunnitteluun. Tutkimuksessa lähestytään tekstiili- ja vaatesuunnittelua käyttäjä-tuotesuhteen kautta soveltaen aiempia teorioita empiiriseen analyysiin. Tutkimuksen empiirinen aineisto koos- tuu kolmesta kuluttajakyselystä, joiden avulla tuotettiin tietoa kuluttajien ympä- ristöasioiden kiinnostuksesta ja kuluttajien tuotesuhteista. Tätä kuluttajakeskeistä tutkimustietoa heijastettiin suunnittelun kenttään, tavoitteena tuoda uusia näke- myksiä ympäristömyötäiseen tuotesuunnitteluun. Tutkimus rakentuu seitsemästä tutkimusartikkelista. Tutkimus avaa sekä laajemman että kapeamman näkökulman ympäristömyö- täiseen tuotesuunnitteluun. Kapean näkökulman kautta kuluttajien tuotesuhteisiin tuotetaan tietoa tuotekiintymyksistä ja tuotetyytyväisyydestä tekstiilin ja vaatteen 6 kontekstissa. Myös kuluttajien arvoja ja ympäristöasioiden kiinnostusta käsitellään artikkeleissa. Laajempi näkökulma syntyy, kun tätä kuluttajakeskeistä tietoa pei- lataan suunnitteluun. Täten tutkimus laajentaa aiempia tutkimuksia lähestymällä holistisesti ja ihmiskeskeisesti kestävää tuotesuunnittelua. Tutkimuksessa rakennetaan teoreettinen keskustelu siitä, miten pidentää kulut- tajan tuotesuhteita eri suunnittelustrategioiden avulla tai tuote-palvelusysteemin kautta. Tässä keskustelussa fokuksessa on tuotesuhteen syventäminen tai tuotetyy- tyväisyyden parantaminen. Lisäksi tutkimus avaa konseptuaalisen keskustelun uu- desta arvonmuodostuksesta, jota tarvitaan radikaalissa muutoksessa kohti kestävää tuotesuunnittelua, tuotteiden valmistusta ja kulutusta. Tutkimustulokset osoittavat, että suunnittelijalla on keskeinen rooli muodos- tettaessa uudenlaista ymmärrystä kestävästä ja ympäristömyötäisestä muotoilusta, joka on tulevaisuus-orientoitunutta ja kauaskatseista designia ja joka tavoittelee kestävää kulutuskäyttäytymistä. Avainsanat: Kulutus, Kestävä tuotesuunnittelu, Ympäristömyötäinen tuotesuun- nittelu, Vaatesuunnittelu, Tekstiilisuunnittelu, Tuotekiintymys, Tuotetyytyväisyys, Arvon muodostus 7 Acknowledgements This research journey began in 2004, alongside my full-time work. It has been a long journey, and many people have positively influenced my work and made this research possible. I hereby want to thank you all! I want to thank especially Adjunct Professor Riikka Räisänen from the Univer- sity of Helsinki, whose supervision has guided me through this research. Special thanks for the helpful feedback on my academic writing. I am most grateful to Professor Turkka Keinonen for the opportunity to concentrate on research work and be one of the researchers in the Design Research unit in Aalto University School of Art and Design from November 2008 to the end of 2011. Without this period, this work would still be in process. An important period during this study was also my research visit to TUDelft in the Netherlands in spring 2010. For this opportunity I want to thank Professor Jan Schoormans. Thank you, Jan, for all the beneficial and concise feedback. I also wish to thank Assistant Professor Ruth Mugge and Researchers Oscar Person and Natascha van der Velden. Thanks also to the Product Innovation Management, the Marketing and Consumer and the Design for Sustainability research groups in Delft Technical University. I would also like to thank the futures researchers from TULIO Graduate School in Future Business Competencies, the doctoral program at the Turku School of Economics, 2006-2009. Furthermore I wish to thank Professor Cha from EWHA University for the possibility to finalize my manuscript in Seoul, South Korea in September 2011. 8 Thanks must also be extended to Professor Ilpo Koskinen, for all help and wis- dom, researcher Lotta Hassi, for sharing research information, and Doctor Ossi Naukkarinen, for guidance in the equivocal world of beauty and aesthetics. I also wish to express my gratitude to the pre-examiners Professor Minna Uotila from the University of Lapland and Research Director Päivi Timonen from the Nation- al Consumer Research Centre for constructive critique during the review process. I am also most grateful to all the researchers in the Design Department and the Design Connections Doctoral School. It was fun to be one of you. Special thanks to coordinator Maarit Mäkelä, for all encouraging words during my learning proc- ess. Thanks also to Salu, Kirsikka, Petra, JJ, Karthik, Salil, Susanne, Katja, Tuuli, Tero, Antti and all others. Thanks also to the Sustainable Design Research Group in the School of Art and Design: Tiina, Tatu, Pekka, Cindy and Alastair. And Tiina Laurila, thanks for starting me off on this research journey in 2004. Fur- thermore I want to thank Helsinki Metropolia University of Applied Sciences for study leave in 2009-2011. And Cindy Kohtala for improving my academic English. For funding I want to thank the following: Design Connections Doctoral School, Academy of Finland 2008-2011 Jenny and
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