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Växbo Lin and Womenweave

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Växbo Lin and Womenweave LICENCIATE THESIS LICENCIATE LICENCIATE THESIS LICENCIATE Textiles and Fashion Global Fashion, via the logic of high speed, large scale industrial production and anachronistic high- volume consumption habits, causes significant social David Goldsmith and environmental damage. Local Fashion is under- stood as part of the Slow Fashion movement that aims to change the functions of fashion so that they support or lead the quest to flourish within known human and plan- etary boundaries. LOCAL FASHIONALITIES: VÄXBO LIN AND LOCAL VÄXBO LIN FASHIONALITIES: This Licentiate thesis examines, through an exploratory narrative based on new and existing research, two Local Fashionalities. Växbo Lin is a small linen manufacturer/brand in Hälsingland, Sweden, producing new heritage home textiles. WomenWeave is a handloom social enterprise in Madhya Pradesh, India, making naya khadi. Their approaches and practices are presented and discussed vis-à-vis notions of globality, locality, design management, and the quest for sustainability. The narrative aims to improve understandings of what Local Fashion LOCAL FASHIONALITIES: is, and contribute to the effort to design new fashion systems grounded in logic relevant to contemporary human needs and aspirations. WOMENWEAVE VÄXBO LIN AND WOMENWEAVE Key Words: Slow Fashion, Textiles, Sustainability, Local Fashion, Small Enterprise, David Goldsmith Social Enterprise, Design Management, Sustainable Development. Digital version: http://hdl.handle.net/2320/14325 ISBN 978-91-87525-30-8 (printed) ISBN 978-91-87525-31-5 (pdf) ISSN 0280-381X, Skrifter från Högskolan i Borås, nr. 55 Local Fashionalities: Växbo Lin and WomenWeave David Goldsmith Thesis for the Degree of Licentiate in Textile Management The Swedish School of Textiles The University of Borås Table of Contents Abstract ................................................................................................................................ 1 Acknowledgements ......................................................................................................... 2 Preface .................................................................................................................................. 3 Introduction ....................................................................................................................... 5 The Global Fashion Problem .................................................................................................. 5 The “New” Roles for Design and Design Management .............................................13 Purpose of Thesis ......................................................................................................................20 Outline of the Chapters ...........................................................................................................21 Definitions of Terms.................................................................................................................21 The Beginning of the Research Journey ..........................................................................24 Approach and Methods ............................................................................................... 29 A Narrative Approach ..............................................................................................................29 Methods .........................................................................................................................................32 Fashion Globalities ....................................................................................................... 36 Recent Economic Globalization and Fashion ................................................................38 Anachronistic Globalities of Fashion ................................................................................41 A Model Misfit for the Times ...........................................................................................41 A Problematic Pattern of Exploitation ........................................................................46 An Impoverished Aesthetic .............................................................................................49 Framing Fashion Localities ....................................................................................... 54 Local Fashionalities: Växbo Lin and WomenWeave Local Fashionalities ...................................................................................................... 69 David Goldsmith Växbo Lin.......................................................................................................................................69 Material and Immaterial Value ......................................................................................74 Copyright © 2014 David Goldsmith WomenWeave .............................................................................................................................84 Material and Immaterial Value ......................................................................................90 Published by The Swedish School of Textiles The University of Borås A Local and Global Wardrobe ........................................................................................... 100 Skaraborgsvägen 3 Lali’s Red Saree .................................................................................................................. 106 501 90 Borås Total Global Ensemble .................................................................................................... 107 Sweden Hanna’s Pink and White Striped Dress .................................................................... 108 Lali’s Really New Saree ................................................................................................... 109 ISBN 978-91-87525-30-8 (printed) Two True Local Fashion Anecdotes .................................................................... 115 ISBN 978-91-87525-31-5 (pdf) In a Field of Grass ................................................................................................................... 115 On a Lawn of Grass ................................................................................................................ 116 ISSN 0280-381X, Skrifter från Högskolan i Borås, nr. 55 Conclusions .................................................................................................................... 119 Digital version: http://hdl.handle.net/2320/14325 The Macro and the Micro .................................................................................................... 120 Printed in Sweden by Ale Tryckteam, Bohus 2014 Works Cited ................................................................................................................... 126 Table of Contents Abstract ................................................................................................................................ 1 Acknowledgements ......................................................................................................... 2 Preface .................................................................................................................................. 3 Introduction ....................................................................................................................... 5 The Global Fashion Problem .................................................................................................. 5 The “New” Roles for Design and Design Management .............................................13 Purpose of Thesis ......................................................................................................................20 Outline of the Chapters ...........................................................................................................21 Definitions of Terms.................................................................................................................21 The Beginning of the Research Journey ..........................................................................24 Approach and Methods ............................................................................................... 29 A Narrative Approach ..............................................................................................................29 Methods .........................................................................................................................................32 Fashion Globalities ....................................................................................................... 36 Recent Economic Globalization and Fashion ................................................................38 Anachronistic Globalities of Fashion ................................................................................41 A Model Misfit for the Times ...........................................................................................41 A Problematic Pattern of Exploitation ........................................................................46 An Impoverished Aesthetic .............................................................................................49 Framing Fashion Localities ....................................................................................... 54 Local Fashionalities: Växbo Lin and WomenWeave Local Fashionalities ...................................................................................................... 69 David Goldsmith Växbo Lin.......................................................................................................................................69
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