Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
TRANSLATION LINKS 1. type into your browser ... english+italian+glossary+nautical terms 2. utilise the translation dictionary ‘Nautical Terms & Expressions’ from Euromodel website
An interpretive review & research paper of the Euromodel Kit - La Renommee
18th. Century French Frigate Launched in 1744
Scale 1:70
C hecked the Esse ntial Resource Informa tion File ?
10.STANDING RIGGING May 2020
This paper is based on the supplied drawings, external references, kit
material – and an amount of extra material. It serves to illustrate how thi s ship might be built.The level of complexity chosen is up to the ind ividual
The origins for this paper were based on the original text supplied by Euromodel and then expanded in detail as the actual ship was constructed by the author, Peter Coward [Additional support was gratefully received from MSW members Landlubber Mike and J.P. My sincere thanks to them]. This paper has no commercial merit or intent and represents a personal research of the La Renommee.
1 Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
This is not an instructional manual but is a collaboration amongst a number of MSW members whose interpretations were based on the drawings and the supplied kit.
• Additional material used was dictated by personal choices. • Greater simplification would be achieved by using the material as it is supplied.
Plan Sheets 1, 2 and 17 were used for the base references. If there was any question about other drawings, it was these three that were referred to.
References Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld (1989) Seventeenth Century Rigging by R.C. Anderson (1955) [almost a complete copy of his earlier book The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600 – 1720 (1927) ] The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War 1650-1850 by Peter Goodwin (1984) The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625 – 1860 by James Lee (1984) An Introductory Outline of the Practice of Ship-Building by John Fincham (1821) The Ship-builders’ Complete Guide by Charles Partington (1826)
Head Timber Photograph: https://www.google.com.au/search?biw=1336&bih=667&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=UT4hXcbLM7_Uz7sPt5upwAY&q=hms+victory+head+tim bers+derrickjknight&oq=hms+victory+head+timbers+derrickjknight&gs_l=img.12...55017.59670..62418...0.0..0.188.2378.0j15...... 0....1..g ws-wiz-img.IpAa_839B6o#imgrc=RsbKY6XgEhU6UM:
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[To navigate through the contents – use ‘control + click’]
Contents Plan Sheet Translations (8, 11,12 & 15) ...... 7 Chapter 1: RIGGING GUIDE ...... 9 Rigging Systems ...... 9 Information from Drawings ...... 9 Blocks ...... 10 1-hole, 2-hole & 3-hole ...... 10 violin/ sister ...... 10 closed heart ...... 10 open heart ...... 10 Standing Rigging Sequence ...... 11 Symbols, Notations & Sequence...... 14 Line Names & Functions ...... 15 Chapter 2: BOWSPRIT RIGGING ...... 17 Boomkin (Bumkin) ...... 17 Gammoning...... 18 Lashing Block ...... Error! Bookmark not defined. Bobstays ...... 20 Shrouds ...... 21 Bee and Bee Block ...... 22 Horses (Manropes) ...... 23 Aft of the Mastcap ...... 23 Forward of the Mastcap ...... 24 Jibboom Heel Sheave ...... 25 Jibboom Guys ...... 26 Traveller ...... 27 Chapter 3: SHROUDS ...... 28 Shroud Collar ...... 28 Rope Sequencing ...... 28 Deadeyes ...... 30 Lower Alignment ...... 30 Upper Alignment ...... 31 Channels ...... 32 Fore & Main Channels ...... 33 Channel Supports ...... 34 Chain Plates ...... 35 Upper Deadeye Alignment (continued) … ...... 36 Seizing the Shroud Rope ...... 37 Deadeye Rigging ...... 38 Chapter 4: STAYS ...... 39 Stays and Preventer Stays ...... 39 Diameters ...... 40 Stay Mouse...... 41 Serving ...... 42
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Main Stay Collar ...... 42 Main Preventer Stay Collar ...... 43 Serving Machine ...... 44 Top Crowsfeet ...... 45 Main Mast and Foremast Stays ...... 47 Stays at Mast Top...... 47 Topmast Stays ...... 48 Topgallant Mast Stays...... 49 Mizzen Mast Stays ...... 50 Lower Mast Stay ...... 50 Topmast Stay ...... 50 Royalgallant Mast Stay ...... 50
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Illustrations Figure 1: Rotating with an old Chair ...... 12 Figure 2: Stepping in Completed Mast ...... 12 Figure 3: Rigging Away from the Ship...... 13 Figure 4: Main Course Sheet and Tack Lines ...... 15 Figure 5: Fore Topsail Yard Brace and Lift Lines ...... 15 Figure 6: Running Lines ...... 16 Figure 7: Approx. Boomkin Shroud Attachment ...... 17 Figure 8: Fore Tack ...... 17 Figure 9: Beginning the Gammoning ...... 18 Figure 10: Successive Turns in Gammoning ...... 18 Figure 11: Frapping...... 18 Figure 12: Bobstays ...... 20 Figure 13: Bobstay Collars ...... 20 Figure 14: Bobstay Positioning on Bowsprit ...... Error! Bookmark not defined. Figure 15: Shroud Lateral Support ...... 21 Figure 16: Shroud Attachment ...... 21 Figure 17: Hook Seized to Shroud Line ...... 21 Figure 18: Fore Stay and Preventer Stays ...... 22 Figure 19: Absence of Bee ...... Error! Bookmark not defined. Figure 20: Long Block Ending for Stays ...... 22 Figure 21: Upper Manropes aft of Mastcap ...... 23 Figure 22: Horserope Forward of Mastcap ...... 24 Figure 23: Jibboom End of Horserope ...... 24 Figure 24: Jibboom Heel Sheave and the Mast Cap ...... 25 Figure 25: Omission of Collar 37 Blocks ...... 25 Figure 26: Shroud Collar Basic Seizing...... 28 Figure 27: Shroud Sequencing ...... 28 Figure 28: Foremast Shroud Sequencing ...... 29 Figure 29: Main Mast Shroud Sequencing ...... 29 Figure 30: Mizzen Mast Shroud Sequencing ...... 29 Figure 31: Fixing the Shrouds...... 30 Figure 32: Fixing Shroud Extremities...... 30 Figure 33: Lack of Alignment of Chain Plates with Shroud Lines...... 30 Figure 34: Shroud Jig ...... 31 Figure 35: Channel Tapering ...... 32 Figure 36: Non-tapering of Channel CS ...... 32 Figure 37 : Channels Made from Plywood ...... 32 Figure 38: Fore Channel Curvature ...... 33 Figure 39: Slots for the Chain Plates ...... 33 Figure 40: Channel Slots to be Created Later ...... 33 Figure 41: Channel Spurs & Knees ...... 34 Figure 42: Channel Support ...... 34 Figure 43: Carved Channel Ends ...... 35 Figure 44: Pinning Underneath a Channel ...... 35 Figure 45: Using Kit-supplied Chain Plates ...... 35 Figure 46: Chain Plate Links ...... 35 Figure 47: Deadeye Orientation ...... 36 Figure 48: Short End of Shroud Rope...... 37
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Figure 49: Order of Deadeye Rigging ...... 37 Figure 50: Triple Half-Hitch ...... 37 Figure 51: Seizings and Half-Hitches ...... 38 Figure 52: Royal William Deadeye Rigging ...... 38 Figure 53: Stays, Backstays, Preventer Stays & Shrouds ...... 39 Figure 54: Stay Collar ...... 41 Figure 55: Stay Mouse ...... 41 Figure 56: Mouse Alignment ...... 41 Figure 57: Stay Eye Without a Mouse ...... 41 Figure 58: Simplified Mouse and Eye ...... 41 Figure 59: Main Stay Collar ...... 42 Figure 60: Main Stay & Main Preventer Stay in a Build ...... 42 Figure 61: Main Preventer Stay Collar (basic drawing) ...... 43 Figure 62: Main Preventer Stay Collar (modified) ...... 43 Figure 63: Main Stay & Main Preventer Stay ...... 43 Figure 64: Crowsfeet Rigging (not LAR) ...... 45 Figure 65: Crowsfeet Rigging (based on Lees Description) ...... 45 Figure 66: Main and Foremast Top Rigging...... 47 Figure 67:Main Topgallant Stay Belayed to Foremast Top ...... 49 Figure 68: Diagram Error ...... 49
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Plan Sheet Translations (8, 11,12 & 15)
Plan Sheet 8 – Running Rigging of Spars
Particolare dei paranchi di drizza dei pennoni di trinchetto e di maestra - detail for the jeer tackle for the fore yard and the main yard.
Barrre costiere della coffa (per maggior chiarezza la coffa non e stato rappresentata) – trestletree of mast top (as shown in large diagram for clarity of the top but without being accurate)
Particolare della drizza dei pennoni di parrocchetto e di gabbia – detail for the halyard hoist for the fore and main topsail yards
Particolare della trozza dei pennoni di parrocchetto di gabbia – detail of the parrel tackle for the yards of the fore and main topsail yards
Storette in 1 mm. legno forate oppure perline in vetro dd bigiotteria di pinte color legno - wooden beads of 1 mm. diameter with a central hole or using costume jewellery glass beads painted brown
Bozzelli fissati sotto le barre traverse delle coffe – fixed blocks under crosstree of top
Particolare della trozza dei pennoni di trinchetto, maestra e mezzana - detail of the parrel tackle for the fore, main and mizzen yards
Salsicciotto di cavo intreccia (0.4) e rivestito in cuoio sp 0.1 – dolphin made from interwoven rope (0.4 mm.) and covered in rope (0.1 mm.)
Il cuoio non e compreso neva scalola di montaggio – the construction of the rope weaving is not fully understood
Particolare della trozza dell’asta di mezzana – detail of the parrel structure for the lateen yard
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Plan Sheet 11 – Standing Rigging particolare B – detail B landra da realizzarsi a cura del modellista – chain plate to be produced by the builder fanno dormiente a due anelli sulla coffa di bompresso – must be linked to two rings on the bowsprit
N.B. per le bigotte, bozzellie, gallocce e moche di ragna vedere Tavola No. 10 – for the deadeyes, blocks, cleats and crowsfeet blocks, refer to Plan Sheet 10
Plan Sheet 12 – Staysails prima sartia prodiera di destra e sinistra – seized to first shroud on both sides bozzella tipo F1 su faccia opposta – block type F1 on the opposite side per i riferimenti numerici degli alberi e delle coffe vedi tav. 3 – per le bandiere vedi tav. 10 – per le vele vedi tav. 1 - for the numerical references of the masts and of the tops see Plan Sheet 3; for the flags see Plan Sheet 10; for sails see Plan Sheet 1
Plan Sheet 15 – Mizzen Mast faccia poppiera – looking towards the stern faccia prodiera – looking towards the bow fa dormiente sull ‘ultima sartia poppiera dell ‘ albero di maestra a destra e a sinistra – the line is fixed on the last shroud of the Main Mast on both the right and left danne volta a 2 anelli sulla coffa – allow for two rings on the top fanno dormienti sullo stroppo delle bigotte della coffa di bompresso – make fixed onto the deadeye strop of the bowsprit top
Il pennone di mezzana ha la sold funzione di poter tesdre la vela di belvedere - mizzen flagpole has the only function of being able to tension the mizzen topsail. particolare dell’attacco della vela al pennone (inferitura) – detail of the sail attachment to the flagpole
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Chapter 1: RIGGING GUIDE
Rigging Systems
Rigging a ship is primarily a method of securing and tensioning all the spars (masts, yards, booms, gaffs and sprits) through a system of standing (fixed) rigging which includes stays, backstays & shrouds.
The rigging also includes a system of running (moveable) rigging to alter tension amongst the spars, raise and lower the yards and booms, furl and unfurl the sails, alter the positioning of sails and to generally control/restrict the movement of the large expanses of sail.
Many builders do not entertain the inclusion of sails even though Euromodel includes the material for this. This then reduces a large amount of the running rigging needed and makes for a far more simple process. To simplify this interpretation, the rigging will be for a ship with no sails
Information from Drawings If the builder is serious about the task of rigging – and most are – then it is worth the time to investigate books on rigging such as …
The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625 – 1860 by James Lee (1984).
Even with the accurate drawings provided, this type of work by its very nature is complicated and maybe painful. No matter how good the drawings are, reference to historically accurate texts and drawings is essential to provide a more open mind to what will be done.
In building this ship, there was a need to constantly make comparisons between the original drawings and what was to be read in other references. That is what ship-building is all about. Another useful text is … Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld (1989).
This introduction simply highlights a few specific areas of the standing and running rigging.
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Blocks The drawings shows a wider variation of block sizes than that provided in the kit. This kit has amalgamated a number of blocks with similar sizes together – e.g. Y and H are used along with L. Some blocks (or groups of blocks) will show different dimensions to that intended in the drawing.
Blocks provided in the kit can be used as supplied or placed into a ‘block tumbler’ to create rounded edges. Commercial sources of blocks are available... (e.g. https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/) but that comes at a considerable cost.
1-hole, 2-hole & 3-hole L/Y*/H*: 3mm., 1 hole(178) 2L/2Y*/2H: 4mm., 2 hole(123) M: 5mm., 1 hole (40) 2M: 5mm., 2 hole (2) 3H/ 3L*: 5mm., 3 hole (37) N: 7mm., 1 hole (9) 2N: 7mm., 2 hole (8)
violin/ sister F*: violin, 6 mm. (4) - Bozzelli a violino da mm. 8 (Art.22/083)
closed heart 33*,: 3 mm. (4) … jibboom horses - forward end
34: 7 mm. (6) .... size to be reduced to 4.5 mm. bowsprit mast shrouds (4) mizzen stay (2; plan sheet 15)
35/36*: 10 mm. (3) ... 35 is used as a substitute for 36 foremast stay and preventer stay (2); main stay (1)
N.B. * not available commercially
open heart Both to be produced by the builder or purchased from a commercial source (e.g. Syren).
‘37’ (18.5 x 11.2 x 2.5 mm.) foremast stay (1) foremast preventer stay (1)
‘38’ (12.6 x 10.0 x 3.5 mm.) main stay (1)
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Standing Rigging Sequence
(some random thoughts)
Work proceeds from … bow to stern … and from … bottom to top.
However, some builders will work from stern to bow and some will also work from top to bottom (the latter comment allows for work on each mast without the very wide lower yards in the way). In other words, it really comes down to what each person is comfortable with.
To add to this wide difference in approach, some will tackle the main mast first !
Success is dependent on … tension … and … counter-tension. Consideration must be given to creating a tension in a rope and then taking into account the counter-tension being exerted by other connecting ropes.
1. Masts (especially bowsprit) fitted with any required blocks.
2. Mast Sequencing • start with the bowsprit and then follow through aft with the fore, main and mizzen
• start with the mizzen and work forwards
N.B. if starting with the bowsprit fixed in position, some prefer to leave off the jibboom to lessen the chance of damage. Standing rigging added (including gammoning).
3. Mast Fixing The alternatives for fixing the masts in position include … • permament glueing of the foot into the hull
• using the standing rigging alone
• using a wax such as ‘Quick-Fix’ placed underneath the heel will definitely hold the mast in a fixed position and yet still allow for a bit of ‘tweaking’
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4. Rigging on the Ship or away from the Ship
There are a number of different approaches used by builders.
• lower mast is stepped in position and rigged with its shrouds,
or …..
Figure 1: Rotating with an old Chair
• completed mast is assembled & stepped in position before adding any standing rigging.
Figure 2: Stepping in Completed Mast
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… or …
• completed mast is assembled and rigged away from the ship before fixing in position
Figure 3: Rigging Away from the Ship
5. Channels added; lower deadeyes and chain plates in position.
6. Main, Fore & Mizzen Lower Masts a. Shrouds attached along with ratlines. b. Stay lines fixed in position.
7. Backstays (fore, main and mizzen) fixed in position.
8. Topmast shrouds (fore and main) attached along with ratlines.
9. Etc ……
… leave all lines & tackles temporarily fixed … until … all standard rigging fitted.
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Symbols, Notations & Sequence
number of the belaying pin or cleat where the running rigging must be tied.
point where the rigging is not fixed but passing through.
e.g.
rigging must be tied to the bitt marked by the number in the circle
rigging is tied to the strap of the corresponding block
indicates the passage of running rigging (block or pass-through bulwarks, etc.) before being fastened/ seized.
indicates the sequential order of fixing of the rigging.
code in brackets indicate the corresponding block on the opposite side of view shown in the plan.
“3H,, 1 ... “3H,, 2 ... “3H,, 3 ... “3H,, 4 number (coloured) indicates sequence of adding blocks
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Line Names & Functions
Sheet lines (green) ... attached to the outer clew on the foot of the sail to control the lower, moveable corner; released when furling the sail. The main course sheets extend aft almost the full length of the ship.
Tack line (red) … a second line also attached to the clew along with the sheet, but the inboard end may be taken to a suitable point well forward of the sail and pulled taut to tighten the leech into some kind of leading edge; usually a single line rather than having blocks. This additional line on the clew allows for a far greater leverage on the sail when required. In Fig. 4, the main course tack passes over a sheave Figure 4: Main Course Sheet and Tack Lines contained within a chesstree (yellow)
Brace lines (green) ... in pairs, they rotate the yard to allow the ship to sail at different angles to the wind.
Lift lines (blue) ...in pairs, they maintain the correct horizontal line of the yard; brace pendant shown in red.
Figure 5: Fore Topsail Yard Brace and Lift Lines
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Clew lines (dark blue) and bunt lines (purple) ... raise the sail up to the yard arm when furling – clew lines are attached to the bottom corners of the sail whilst the thinner buntlines are attached across the sail foot.
Leech lines (brown) and leechleg lines (green) ... pull the sail in and upwards during furling.
Bow lines (light blue) ... attached to sail cringles via bridles (red)
bunt bunt leech leechleg
leech bridle
bowline
Figure 6: Running Lines
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Chapter 2: BOWSPRIT RIGGING (initial rigging)
Boomkin (Bumkin) Its function was to draw the foresail tack down tightly through the aid of a block at its outer end. The block was omitted in the drawings but has been added in Fig. 8 (broken blue circle) for the sake of completeness.
In Plan Sheet 16, the boomkin shrouds appear to be attached in some way to the bowsprit but they are seized underneath - one to an eyebolt mounted on the stem and another to an eyebolt mounted just above the upper cheek of the head. Fore tacks are passed through blocks M1 & M2 (green) and to the focs’le pin rack, belaying pins 5 & 6 (Fig. 8).
boomkin shrouds
boomkin shrouds Figure 7: Approx. Boomkin Shroud Attachment
fore tack
Figure 8: Fore Tack
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Gammoning
Gammoning is the first rope (standing rigging) on the bowsprit.
Seven turns of gammoning were employed for each one, keeping the bowsprit turns forward and the turns through the lower hole aftwards. This creates a cross-over/ twist in the centre of the gammoning which is frapped with the same number of turns.
• off the ship, a small eye is spliced into one end of the gammoning line
• the opposite end of the line is then reeved through the eye and tightened so that the eye splice lies immediately below the bowsprit mast.
• the line then passes through the gammoning hole in the stem and up around the bowsprit (Fig. 9). Figure 9: Beginning the Gammoning
• each successive turn lays forward on the bowsprit and aft in the stem (Fig. 10) and this is what gives the gammoning its unique twisting shape. The gammoning should be taut (without being excessive) during this process.
• The line is then frapped (circled around) the mid-point of the gammoning (Fig. 11). Lees [1948] states that the number of turns on the frapping is equal to the number of turns around the bowsprit. The frapping is pulled tight to pinch the gammoning in the middle - this means that the gammoning itself must not be too tight around the bowsprit, Figure 10: Successive Turns in otherwise pulling the frapping will not be possible and the Gammoning gammoning won't look right.
Positioning of the slits and how they were used was quite variable over time without any hard and fast rule.
Figure 11: Frapping
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Figure 12: Typical Gammon Lashing Block
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Bobstays
To withstand the upward force on the bowsprit exerted by the stays and masts in general, bobstay lines under tension were usually employed beneath the bowsprit mast.
NOT Lerenommee
Figure 13: Bobstays Figure 14: Bobstay Collars
Bobstays were generally served along the entire length but rarely seen in builds.
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Shrouds
From around 1720 (Mondfeld, 1989), one or two pairs of shrouds were added to give lateral support (Fig. 15).
Figure 15: Shroud Lateral Support
Secured to the wales with eye bolts and hooks, they were set up with closed heart blocks (#34).
[Fig. 17 is not from LeRenommee]
Figure 16: Shroud Attachment
Figure 17: Hook Seized to Shroud Line
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The following section is ‘not in sequence’ and will obviously only be looked at after the fore topmast is in position.
Bee and Bee Block (for future reference)
The fore topmast stay roves through the aft starboard sheave whilst the fore topmast preventer stay roves through the forward port sheave.
fore topmast preventer stay
fore topmast stay
Figure 18: Fore Stay and Preventer Stays
For a more basic construction, the bees and their blocks could be omitted and a simple eye pin included.
Rigging between the single block (blue) and long block (yellow) in Fig. 20 commences with the red broken line and continues through to the blue broken line.
The single block is supported by an eye bolt passing through a metal band surrounding the bowsprit.
The excess line allows for Figure 19: Long Block Ending for Stays changes in the length of both the foremast stay and its preventer stay.
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Horses (Manropes)
Aft of the Mastcap This pair of safety ropes (Fig. 21, broken red line showing starboard side only) had their forward ends seized to eyebolts either side of the bowsprit cap (green circle, starboard side; yellow port side) and the aft ends seized to eyebolts set in the timber heads either side of the bowsprit. A pair of short legs (broken blue line showing starboard side only) were seized to the forestay.
leg
manrope
Figure 20: Upper Manropes aft of Mastcap
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Forward of the Mastcap The system continued forward as a pair of ropes (Fig. 22, green) hanging about 2 feet/ 590 mm. (approx. 8 mm. at this scale) beneath the center of the jibboom – the forward ends spliced separately around the jibboom end and the inner ends were generally seized to eyebolts set either side of the mastcap on the forward face (in Fig. 23, that termination is shown aft of the mastcap). Overhand knots were made along the length approx. 2 feet apart.
Figure 21: Horserope Forward of Mastcap
The forward end shown in Plan Sheet 16 is set with a pair of closed heart blocks (Fig. 23; No. 33, yellow) which would then mean four are required in total – although the block table in Plan Sheet 14 indicates only two. From my observations, very few builds have gone to the trouble of including such blocks and even to including these horses at all.
Figure 22: Jibboom End of Horserope
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Jibboom Heel Sheave The drawings were unclear as regards the line that passed around this sheave where both ends were seized against the mast cap. It appears that the starboard line is fixed to a ring set in a metal band supporting the sprit topmast but I am far from sure about that and so have chosen an extra eyebolt alongside the bowsprit. The two nominated eyebolts in Fig. 24 are shown by the two red circles. The position of the sheave (red) is a view from the forward end looking to the aft.
Figure 23: Jibboom Heel Sheave and the Mast Cap
Figure 24: Omission of Collar 37 Blocks
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Jibboom Guys
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Traveller
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Chapter 3: SHROUDS
Shroud Collar wrapping rope cut end will There is an intricate way of doing the seizing but the just be visible simple choice is most commonly used by most at end of builders. It involves : wrapping … a simple knot (e.g. reef knot), reef (square) ….a few wrapping turns, and then knot … a dab of glue.
In Fig. 26, one end of the seizing rope is laid down (broken red line showing the part hidden) on the ropes being seized, the other end is then wrapped around a number of times over these three ropes and Figure 25: Shroud Collar Basic Seizing held in place by glue. The other end of this seizing rope (indicated by the red circle), is then neatly cut back. This is the method that most will utilize !
Rope Sequencing Their fixing (‘wrapping’) around the mast is carried out in a specific sequence that begins with the foremost single (main) or foremost pair (fore and mizzen) on the starboard side. The sequence is explained in more detail below.
A ‘shroud gang’ was formed from one rope length well over double the distance from channel to masthead with an eye seized in the middle. The eye was very slightly larger than the mast girth and fitted over the mast with the two rope lengths coming down on the starboard side and then ‘seized’ down to the deadeyes anchored on the hull just below the channels. This was then carried out for the port side and the sequence alternated until the required number of shroud ropes were added. If there were an odd number of ropes, then the last rope added was a single rope with an eye splice. Sufficient length should be left to allow for the ropes to wrap around the upper deadeyes and the short lengths seized.
Figure 26: Shroud Sequencing
Lower mast shroud numbers … 8 foremast 9 main mast 5 mizzen mast
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The main and mizzen lower mast first rope added was a single rope added to each side – all other ropes were in pairs. Sufficient length should be left to allow for the ropes to wrap around the upper deadeyes and the short lengths seized.
8 6 4 7 5 3 2 1
Figure 27: Foremast Shroud Sequencing
7 9 8 6 5 4 3 2 1
Figure 28: Main Mast Shroud Sequencing
5 4 3 2 1
Figure 29: Mizzen Mast Shroud Sequencing
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Deadeyes
The lower deadeyes are held by ‘chain plates’ that pass through the channels and fixed onto the hull beneath.
Figure 30: Fixing the Shrouds
Lower Alignment The correct positioning of the lower dead eyes that will be fixed into the channels is essential since they will not be evenly spaced apart.
The position of the foremost and aftermost shroud lines need to be established – red lines in Fig. 32.
Other shroud positions in between these can then be determined by lines of best fit between gunports, etc (Fig. 33 below). The extensions of all these lines can be marked in pencil on the hull and used to determine the positions for the lower deadeyes and chain plates.
alignment of deadeyes
chain plate incorrectly positioned correct alignment for chain plate
Figure 32: Lack of Alignment of Chain Plates with Shroud Lines
Fig. 33 illustrates the difficulty in producing the theoretically correct alignment whilst Fig. 34 is correct. Note the uneven distribution of shroud lines necessitated by the presence of gun ports.
Figure 31: Fixing Shroud Extremities
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Upper Alignment A jig can be used to create the correct shroud rope length and the upper deadeye ‘horizontal’ alignment. With permission, an edited version is produced (not for the RW but the same principles apply) from the Model Ship World Forum written by Gene Bodnar. Thanks Gene.
“A balsawood jig (Fig. 26) is made for each side and firmly clamped onto the channel and its location marked at either end so it can be repositioned exactly at a later time.
Each shroud line is then pulled taut to the centre of the lower deadeye, and its 'run' marked on the balsa block to the point where it intersects the lower deadeye. Also mark a line which indicates the uppermost height of the upper deadeyes – refer to Fig. 34.
Figure 33: Shroud Jig
Editor’s note … a significant problem is highlighted by Fig. 33. The slots (or holes) for the chain plates were produced in the channel before fixing to the hull. Chain plates were subsequently inserted into the channel and fixed in position. This has resulted in a non-alignment of shroud lines with the chain plates.
Ideally each shroud line and the corresponding chain plate should form a continuous straight line. This is not without its difficulty but the mast should be set in position, the channel added in a temporary position, and the shroud alignments determined.
A discussion of the channels follows ….
31 Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
Channels parasartie The channel timber is supplied as … 2 x 11 x 500 mm. (1)
This kit provides timber that ‘allows’ for the full channel width (of 11 – 10.5 mm.) but the reality is that there were a number of timbers joined together to form that width. Either using a number of such lengths or simulating the timber widths would be an obvious step for the builder.
Goodwin (1984, 184) makes no distinction between the widths for these three channels but that will depend on the shape of the tumblehome and this should be considered.
Using his discussion as a guide, the following dimensions would typically apply to a smaller ship like the La Renommee at a scale of 1:70 ... width: 13 mm thickness (hull): 1.5 – 2.4 mm. thickness (outer edge): 0.4 – 0.7 mm.
The difference in the thickness across the channel indicates a tapering outwards (Fig. 35 on the upper surface) but the Euromodel drawing indicates no tapering. Another choice to be made !
Figure 35: Non-tapering of Channel CS Figure 34: Channel Tapering
Some builders utilize 2 mm. thick plywood instead of the supplied timber. The plywood is then ‘covered up’ by painting it black.
In the build shown in Fig. 37, a more basic and alternative approach was used … • channels were made from plywood, • small nails used for reinforcement, • holes drilled for chain plates,
Figure 36 : Channels Made from Plywood
32 Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
Fore & Main Channels
Channel width from the Drawing: The width requires timber to be a minimum of 13.4 mm to allow for the curvature of the interior edge. Kit timber supplied is only 11.0 mm. wide meaning an additional strip must be added to the inner edge – or a smaller width accepted using just the supplied timber.
9.6 mm. 11.4 mm. 13.4 mm. 11.0 mm.
Figure 37: Fore Channel Curvature
The holes allow for the insertion of chain plates. At this stage, it is suggested that the channels be made slightly longer than that shown in the drawings.
From two respected authors, there is a slight contradiction regarding introduction of slots for the chain plates instead of the holes. [Anderson’s comment is favoured.]
Anderson (1955, 37) ....”Deadeyes in the period 1650-1720 and later were set in slots on the outer edge of the channels, and covering strips were nailed over them”
Goodwin (1987, 187) ... ” In 1771, an improvememnt was made to facilitate removal of the deadeyes, for replacement or maintenance. This modification required slots to be cut into the outer edge of the channel, in place of the original Figure 38: Slots for the Chain Plates holes through which the chain plates passed. Over these slots, along the edge, a thin capping was nailed, to prevent the deadeyes and chainplates from being unshipped. This batten was made to 2/3 of the thickness of the outer edge of the channel, and was generally fashioned with a plain moulding”
Two thirds of 2 mm. is approx. 1.3 mm. Fig. 38 ignored the capping strip altogether but the upside of adding the capping strip is that it will supplement the width of the supplied channel material.
It is recommended that the holes/ slots be determined only after the shroud lines are ready to be installed.
The above comment is made on the basis that many observed builds of this ship have failed to produce the correct alignment through, it is suspected, creating the holes/ slots in the initial stages of channel production. Small deviations in each of the mast rakes would have to be a main source of errors in alignment of the shroud lines.
Figure 39: Channel Slots to be Created Later
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Historical Channel Width: The 13.0 mm width (Goodwin - as discussed earlier) requires timber to be a minimum of 16.4 mm. It was decided to adhere more to the historical sense by joining three 2 x 5 mm. strips together to create the required width. Along with a 1 mm. thickness capping strip, the overall width of the channel would be approx. 13.0 mm.
Channel Supports Due to the lateral stresses that the shrouds control, the channels were typically pinned through the hull side and greatly strengthened by the presence of knees and spurs (Fig. 41) located along the channel upper surface. No ship of this size would have been built without them but strangely, they are absent from this Euromodel-designed ship.
Due to the presence of gun ports, their distribution along the channels was invariably uneven.
Figure 40: Channel Spurs & Knees not the La Renommee
knee (or bracket) spur
How they are produced is up to the individual but one person made the comment … “the metal spurs were made from 0.8 x 1.5 mm. brass strip using a combination of looping & needle nose pliers”.
Brass pins were installed to help hold the not the La Renommee channels in place.
Figure 41: Channel Support
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Figs. 42 & 43 show an embellishment to the channel ends which could be considered.
Figure 42: Carved Channel Ends
In contrast to the pinning shown in Fig. 18, One builder simplified matters by resting the channels on brass pins (Fig. 44). Not a recommended practice.
Figure 43: Pinning Underneath a Channel Chain Plates
The chain plates need to be arranged at various angles so that they avoid crossing over in front of the gun ports. This has the effect of varying the chain plate lengths or if using the same length, grossly distorting the chain plate alignment (Fig. 45) Figure 44: Using Kit-supplied Chain Plates
The presence of wales could well affect where the chain plate is fixed onto the hull causing the plate to be modified, custom made or sourced commercially. upper links This might all be disregarded (Fig. 45) and chain plates used from the kit as they are.
Rarely shown in kits but there was an extra short middle links security link termed the ‘preventer link’. Unlike the other links, this took the form of a short plate (Fig. 46, inset).
toe link
preventer link Figure 45: Chain Plate Links
35 Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
Upper Deadeye Alignment (continued) …
Where this upper deadeye line intersects the tackle lines – and without worrying about orientation at this point) - the deadeyes are each fixed in position with a couple of brass plank nails that are easily pushed into the balsa wood.
Each of the shroud ropes/tackle is then pulled taut around each deadeye. Using tweezers, the rope is arranged so the wrap-round occurs at the top and in line with the upper deadeye line. Ropes are sealed with a drop of instant glue – without applying glue to the deadeye! This process is repeated alternately from port-starboard-port etc.
The deadeye must have the correct orientation.
Each line should tie up with the same tension with the deadeyes being at the same Figure 46: level (well, almost). Deadeye Orientation
36 Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
Seizing the Shroud Rope
The shroud rope is secured with two or three seizings. Historically there were three seizings: 1. an ‘eye seizing’ nearest the deadeye, 2. a ‘middle seizing’, and 3. an ‘end seizing’ near the short end of the shroud rope.
The short end … … should always be forward on the port side and aft on the starboard side.
Fig. 48 was taken from the starboard side of another model where both forward and aft positions on the deadeye are evident for the short end. A case of how exacting you wish to be
Figure 47: Short End of Shroud Rope All short ends must be finished to the same length but at this stage leave excess length.
Initially, complete the eye seizing to fully secure the wrap-around. Many will choose to leave this till later but I wanted to be sure about securing that rope.
end seizing
middle seizing triple half- hitch overlay eye seizing
3 3
5 1 1 5 * knot
2 2 6 6 Figure 49: Triple Half-Hitch 4 4
front view back view Figure 48: Order of Deadeye Rigging
37 Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
Deadeye Rigging Rigging the deadeyes once they are mounted is a straightforward task (adding a sticky label to each rope with a number to identify each shroud can be useful). Fig. 49 illustrates the sequence normally involved in rigging the deadeye. Until that is completed, ignore the seizings included in the figure.
seizings
With deadeyes rigged and tensioned, the half-hitches jig was modified by adding a height to it equal to the length of the short wrap- aound rope which will be seized to the shroud above the deadeye. This extra height gives a gauge to determine the length of that short rope – which will vary according to the angle of each shroud rope.” Figure 50: Seizings and Half-Hitches Seizing Completion In Fig. 49, the lanyard (blue line) is shown extending from the rear of the bottom deadeye and forming a triple half-hitch over the eye seizing at the base of the shroud rope. Fig. 51 shows an attempt at creating a knot/ hitch of some sorts but is not the hitch described above - this illustrates the variance possible in any build.
Over the lower seizing, there was usually at least a triple half-hitch (blue lines) – refer to Fig. 50. This photograph appears not to have a triple but perhaps a double half-hitch. Once all deadeyes are rigged and tensioned, the jig is placed back in its original position and some brass nails used to secure the upper deadeyes to the jig by pushing them through the threaded holes. You may need thin brass pins for this.
The deadeyes are now held in a fixed positions and the task of seizing the shroud ropes above the deadeye should be relatively straightforward.
Figure 51: Royal William Deadeye Rigging
38 Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
Chapter 4: STAYS
Stays and Preventer Stays
With paired stays, the stay is the upper larger diameter line, whilst the lesser thickness underneath is the preventer stay.
The exception to this rule is seen in the foremast & fore topmast stays and preventer stays where each of the four lines are of the same diameter. In this case, the upper line in each pair is termed the preventer stay and the lower line is the stay.
Lower ends of stays were secured to dead eyes, long tackles or just seized whilst those of the preventer stays were rove through blocks.
main royal stay
main topgallant stay fore royal stay
mizzen topmast fore topgallant stay stay
main topmast stay main topmast preventer stay
mizzen topmast fore topmast preventer stay preventer stay fore topmast stay
fore backstays main stay main preventer stay mizzen fore preventer stay stay fore stay
MAIN mizzen MAST FORE main backstays preventer MAST stay
Figure 52: Stays, Backstays, Preventer Stays & Shrouds
39 Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
Preventer Stays
The preventer stay was introduced about 1700. Both Anderson (1955) and Lees (1984) state that the preventer stay was generally above the stay rope and of a lesser diameter. Its function was to spread the tension exerted on the masts and thus avoiding/reducing distortion along the mast length. Another significant aspect was that with the snaking of line between the stay and the preventer lines, there would be a reduced chance of the stay collapsing onto the decks during conflict. Anderson (1955) points out that there is no definitive answer as to whether snaking was a permanent feature or not. Some believe that the snaking was only carried out before a conflict.
A decision for the builder then is whether such rigging would be built using the kit- supplied natural-coloured rope or a darker form. Rule of thumb is that the natural rope is used for the running, temporary lines and the darker for the standard, fixed lines.
In this ship there is a mixture of combinations: • individual stays, • preventer stays paired with stays
Diameters
The following table lists all the standard stays (and one running stay) read from aft of the mizzen mast and upwards, aft of the main mast and upwards and finally aft of the foremast and upwards.
Stay diameter (mm.) mizzen backstay 0.4 mizzen preventer stay 0.75 mizzen stay 1.0 fore backstays 0.5/ 0.75 mizzen topmast preventer stay 0.4 mizzen topmast stay 0.5 main backstays 0.5/ 0.75 main preventer stay 0.75 main stay 1.5 main topmast preventer stay 0.5 main topmast stay 0.75 main topgallant stay 0.4 main royal stay 0.3
fore stay 1.25
fore preventer stay 1.25
fore topmast stay 0.75
fore topmast preventer stay 0.75 jib stay (running stay) 0.75 fore topgallant stay 0.4 fore royal stay 0.3
40 Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
Stay Mouse served stay eye at main masthead The stay eye was wrapped around a mast but prevented from pulling tight by the use of a stay mouse – a structure raised on the stay rope large enough not to pass through a approx. 25.4 mm small loop at the stay end. (6 feet)
mouse
spliced eye
Figure 53: Stay Collar
Figure 54: Stay Mouse
The fore side of the mouse (Fig. 56, broken line) should at least be not any further forward than under the fore edge of the top but quite often was slightly aft of that. A woven texture is a feature of the mouse which contrasts strongly with the served collar.
Figure 55: Mouse Alignment
A majority of builders avoid producing the mouse (Fig. 57) and yet it can be created with a high degree of accuracy or simulated to look realistic. Some approaches include using cotton wool packing which is then covered over with rope or the utilisation of a self adhesive bandage to simulate the intricate weaving ! The latter interesting approach is to be found on MSW forum. Even if this Figure 56: Stay Eye Without a Mouse method is not fully followed, there are some useful techniques that could be used.
Without getting too carried away with the complexities of the mouse and eye, Fig. 58 illustrates an effective method of construction.
Figure 57: Simplified Mouse and Eye 41 Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
Serving
Standing rigging is sometimes created with a multi-layered protection against chafe and deterioration and without discussing all aspects of this layering, the Euromodel drawings do show serving in certain places.
This outer layer of protection is formed from small diameter rope wrapped as tightly as possible around the line, each progressive turn of the twine laid as close as possible against the last, covering the line completely. The course run is laid against the lay of the rope which helps prevent sideways chafe from opening up the protection. Traditionally hemp ‘twine’/‘marline’/‘cordage’ was used.
Many builders ignore this serving.
Main Stay Collar Fig. 59 shows the main stay collar where the 2 mm. diameter loop (Euromodel kit only supplies a maximum of 1.5 mm rope ) has been served over with 0.1 mm line (red). Also visible are the closed and open heart blocks used to seize the main stay to the collar.
Figure 58: Main Stay Collar
Fig. 60 shows a build with a closed heart block on the main stay … but … the collar has been greatly simplified ! There is no open heart block and the ‘collar’ is just wrapped around the mast. Also visible is the main preventer stay underneath that is seized to an eye bolt on the foremast.
In summary, it is possible to take many simplified steps.
Figure 59: Main Stay & Main Preventer Stay in a Build
42 Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
Main Preventer Stay Collar
This collar is completely served. Fig. 40 show a large collar which is seized around the foremast but is further explained in Fig. 61 with two eye splices being seized together.
Figure 60: Main Preventer Stay Collar (basic drawing)
The preventer stay is rove through a one-hole deadeye (Fig. 62, yellow) but many choose to completely ignore this collar (refer back to Fig. 61). The hole is opened up in the direction of the incoming stay to form a channel that deepens into the hole. This allows for a lessening of any chafing. Figure 61: Main Preventer Stay Collar (modified)
Fig. 63 illustrates a section of the main preventer stay that is served (red).
Figure 62: Main Stay & Main Preventer Stay
43 Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
Serving Machine
Tigersteve posted the following photos on MSW for the Syren Serv-o-Matic machine.
44 Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
Top Crowsfeet
These are rigged from the forward edge of the top of each mast to the mizzen and main stays and the fore preventer stay.
The following text refers to all three tops – the forward edge has eleven holes for the main top and nine holes for both the fore and mizzen tops. The actual number of holes formed horizontally in the rim is a point of conjecture since Plan Sheet 15 shows five and four holes in cross-section respectively. Assuming that the count represents each side, then there would be one on the centre line but not shown. Figure 63: Crowsfeet Rigging (not LAR)
Lees, 1984, 44 offers an alternative approach where the rigging holes in the rim are vertically formed rather than horizontally through the rim… “Introduced in the middle of the seventeenth century, and comprised a rope spliced round the strop of the euphroe block, its other end reeving through the centre hole in the rim of the top from above, up through the next hole to port, through the upper hole of the euphroe block, up through the inner starboard hole in the top and so on until the end finally came out of the outer hole on the starboard side of the top. There it was hitched to the under part of the previous lead through the top.”
Given the fragile nature of the round top, Lees comment about drilling through the top surface of the rim seemed a more suitable way to go. Fig. 65 follows Lees method and finishing up with eleven lines for the main mast top.
6 5 this side-view diagram of the 2 main mast top shows 5 holes
1 which could be inferred as representing a total of 11 holes 3 (counting a central hole which is not shown) 4 7
euphroe blocks were formed with only five (main) or four holes (fore).
Figure 64: Crowsfeet Rigging (based on Lees Description) 45 Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
Euphroe Tackle By the 18th century, its shape had become simply a long block with parallel sides and containing a number of holes – the drawings only indicate a long block without any detail and indeed the Euromodel Museum model does not contain and suggestion of the crowsfeet rigging. Shaped eurphroe blocks were created after drilling three sets of holes first in one length of timber sufficient to create those blocks. A groove was cut around the outside surface of each of the three blocks so formed.
The standing part of the fall was made fast to the upper block, whilst the running part, after reeving through both blocks was hitched to the stay below. In this case, the hitching is made via a cleat.
46 Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
Main Mast and Foremast Stays
Stays at Mast Top
Plan Sheet 16 utilises a joint diagram to explain the rigging associated with the top for both the main mast and the foremast.
The English translation reads ... N.B. On the side view of the tops, the deadeyes and the shrouds have been omitted for better clarity. Parts indicated with dot and dash lines refer only to the mainmast. The diameters of the rigging above the line refer to the mainmast and those under the line refer to the foremast.
[‘F’ – foremast; ‘M’ – main mast]
deadeyes on both M: 0.5 mm. (mizzen topmast stay masts would be size – not 0.4 mm.) ‘B’ ; drawings F: 0.75 mm. (main topmast stay) indicate ‘C’ on main mast ... incorrect
M: 0.4 mm. (mizzen topmast stay – not 0.3 mm.) F: 0.5 mm. (main topmast preventer stay) M: 1.50 mm. (main mast stay) 0.75 mm. (main mast preventer stay) F: 1.25 mm. (foremast stay & preventer stay)
Plan Sheet 9 appears to be the only reference to this second main mast preventer stay. It was not included in this build.
Figure 65: Main and Foremast Top Rigging
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Topmast Stays
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Topgallant Mast Stays
Main Topgallant Stay
At the top of Plan Sheet 15 there is a drawing – below as Fig. 68 - which shows a stay (blue arrow) roving through a block, down through a crosstree (shaded yellow) and extending down to a tackle fixed to the ‘coffa di maestra’/ main mast top.
Looking at the main mast, there is no stay that can pass main topgallant through the top mast crosstree on the main mast. The line stay dimensions and deadeye sizes in Fig. 68 do not correspond to those shown for the main mast but if the notation ‘coffa di maestra’ is changed to ‘coffa di trinchetto’/ foremast top, then the rigging is part of the foremast, not the main mast. Clearly there is now a stay, the main topgallant stay, that passes through the fore topmast crosstree and then joins with a tackle on the foremast top.
Fig. 67 is also the basis for rigging the mizzen topmast stay through the main mast top to tackle on the main deck.
main topgallant stay
caption should read ‘coffa di trinchetto’ / foremast top Figure 67: Diagram Error
Figure 66:Main Topgallant Stay Belayed to Foremast Top 49 Euromodel – La Renommee.10.Standing Rigging.May 2020
Mizzen Mast Stays
Lower Mast Stay
Topmast Stay
Royalgallant Mast Stay
50