indledningIntroduction Watchful walking on the 5b Gendarmstien (the Gendarme Path) – then and now 5c

Walking along the Gendarmstien, it’s easy imagining the gendarmes keeping eyes and ears open as they patrolled on foot, moving across the steep cliffs and deep forests and flat 5a beaches. Their job was to catch dangerous smugglers illegally moving goods in and out of the country to avoid paying customs duty, which for centuries was one of Denmark’s main sources of income. 11b gråsten 11a The Border Gendarmerie was formed in 1839 The police took over border control in 1958 and to protect customs officials who worked for the the regiment was disbanded after more than 100 10c 11d duchies at the border along the Elbe. years of service. But fragments of the historic After the defeat of 1864, the Danish border Gendarmstien remained and the path was resto- At Busholm 1950 10a 10b høruphav was moved north to Kongeåen and in 1866 the red in the 1980s. So now you can walk along one 11c regiment moved there. of Denmark’s most beautiful nature trails, keeping After reunification in 1920, the regiment moved a lookout for rare plants and animals while explo- egernsund 6a south again and patrolled the current border, ring the many myths and stories associated with 12a from the Wadden Sea to the west to Als’ southern this part of Denmark. point to the east. sønderborg 11e Skomagerhus border crossing, circa 1920 11f rendbjerg 7c broager If you’re planning a walk on the Gendarmstien and want details about overnight Explore the outdoors responsibly accommodation or the route or other information, contact any of the area’s Most people have a reasonable three tourist information centres. The centres’ websites are always up to date idea of how to behave responsibly with the latest events and venues and have a wealth of useful information about when exploring the countryside the options in the area. – if you use marked paths, keep 7b sandager 9e dogs on leads and do not litter 4a Kruså Turistbureau Aabenraa Turistbureau Sønderborg Erhvervs- the countryside, you won’t go far Flensborgvej 11 Storegade 30 og Turistcenter wrong. 4c 4b DK-6340 Kruså DK-6200 Aabenraa Rådhustorvet 7 But if you’re unsure and want Tel.: +45 74 67 21 71 Tel.: +45 74 62 35 00 DK-6400 Sønderborg to learn more about using the Tel.: +45 74 42 35 55 7a [email protected] [email protected] countryside and coastal areas, visit stensigmose [email protected] 9d www.visitkrusaa.dk www.visitaabenraa.dk www.skovognatur.dk www.visitsonderborg.com

brunsnæs 7d Aabenraa Municipality Sønderborg Municipality Byg, Natur & Miljø Natur og Miljø Skelbækvej 2 Rådhustorvet 10 Part-financed by the EU sønderhav The European Regional DK-6200 Aabenraa DK-6400 Sønderborg Development Fund 3a Tel.: +45 73 76 76 76 Tel.: +45 88 72 64 00 Investing in your future [email protected] [email protected] 8c 8d kruså Explore the local history, myths, legends, Selected places and sights along 9c Queens sights and beautiful countryside along Gendarmstien Map key 8b Dukes the Gendarmstien. The map is marked with a selection of sights, places, etc. Some War Peace of these are briefly described on the back of the map. Gendarmsti (Gendarme Path) The 1e The map’s back page gives a taste of the many experiences and Castles kollund adventures waiting for you on the Gendarmstien. The small coloured 1a “Den Krumme Vej” / The border in Rønsdam 7c Broager Church with two spires Gendarmsti along the beach icons divide the text into different subjects: 1b Traces of old castle in Nyhus 7d Former ferry berth in Brunsnæs Alternative trail 9b Black woodpeckers 1c Bov Museum/Oldemorstoft 8a Water level marker at Røjhus Hærvejen Gendarme Path 2c 1d Haraldsdal 8b The pirates’ “Skrækkeshøj” Frog concerts Marked bicycle route 8a 1e Kruså Vandmølle (watermill) 8c Barrow in Skelde 9a 74 km path along the Danish-German border Not marked bicycle route Pirates 1g Memorial at jernbanebroen 8d Reed forests in Skeldevig 2b History 1h Frøslevlejrens Museum 9a Liebestunnel kragesand Smugglers Parking spaces Toilet padborg 2a Skomagerhus border crossing 9b Brudestenen Springs 1a Nature and 2b Christian IV’s copper mill 9c Burial mound in Skeldekobbel Forest Caravan site Barbecue or campfire area 2c Abrahams Spring 9d Cliff at Stensigmose Brickworks Ice Age 2a geology Primitive overnight Bus stop 3a Ferry connection to Store Okseø 9e Gratelund vantage point accommodation Fossils 4a 1c Brickworks ruins at Stranderød 10a Historiecenteret 1864 Tourist office Train station 1b Nearby sights 4b Brickworks ruins at Brændstoft 10b Dybbøl Mill Mussels Vantage point Nature playground Follow the signs with the blue gendarme 4c Munkemølle and memorial to 10c Kongeskansen on Dybbøl Bank Queen Margrethe I Border crossing Sea kale Gendarmstien stretches from the Danish-German border at 11a Alsion 1. udgave 2013. beSouled / Lindén Kommunikation Padborg, across Kollund, Rinkenæs, Gråsten, Broagerland Sagas and 5a Former spa hotel in Gråsten 11b Former navy station Border crossing for pedestrians and cyclists only Camp fires and Vemmingbund, past Dybbøl and on to Sønderborg legends 5b Gråsten Castle 11c Sønderborg Castle 1g 1d and Høruphav on Als. Hugging the coast, the route passes 5c Paludan-Müller Memorial 11d Ringridermuseet 1 km Border crossing through varied landscape with forests, moors and meadows. Activities for 6a Egernsund Church 11e Sports academy Twinkling fossils 7a Cathrinesminde Teglværksmuseum 11f Skydestranden in Sønderborg 1h 3 km The 74 km route follows marked roads and paths. all ages Scale approx. 1:40.000 7b Teglværksstien 12a Trillen Scale 1:40.000 Padborg to Kruså approx. 5 km Sønderhav to Sandager approx. 6.5 km Rendbjerg to Brunsnæs approx. 6 km Stensigmose to Sønderborg approx. 12 km

South Jutland is a central gateway if you want to “Ground tel- The area was covered by ice over 100,000 years Ships were once the easiest form of transport Teglværksstien *7b Siege of Dybbøl Frog concerts move to Europe via Denmark or to the other Nor- ephone” *1a ago and the ice disappeared 11,000 years ago. Shaped by the Ice Age because roads were almost impassable and you Part of Gendarmstien is followed by the This part of Gendarmstien offers a constant view You can enjoy the ”frog concerts” along dic countries from Europe. For over 1,000 years, Speak into The Ice Age has shaped the landscape – with couldn’t move a lot of goods over stony ground. Plain sailing Teglværksstien path. There are information of Dybbøl Bank, site of the Siege of Dybbøl, which War in 1864 Gendarmstien in April, May and June. commoners with livestock, traders and dukes have funnelled the “ground large hills, slopes and lakes. and humans Coal-laden ships could sail near to the brickworks and points where you can see traces of the old took place in April 1864. Natterjacks ’sing’ at Gammelmark. At Dyb- across the border. telephone” at the The Ice Age also meant brick production could thrive once loaded, they transported bricks and tiles all over the brickworks. Part of the Second Schleswig War that ended in disastrous bøl you can hear natterjacks, edible frogs border crossing in and European tree frogs, which are also The most popular route was Hærvejen, which Gendarmstien Rønsdam and look here for hundreds of years. Fine underground clays that world. defeat for Denmark, which lost 40% of its land area and a found in Sønderskoven. crosses just north of Padborg. Hærvejen stretches from are free of stone were able to form in the still waters of Broager population that went from 2.6 million to 1.6 million citizens. out for the numbered border markers. The church Trondheim in the north to Rome in the south. It also links first 49 are found on the Gendarmstien. the glacial lakes. The first steamship came to Flensborg Fjord in 1866. Ten The Danish army were entrenched *7c at Dybbøl while the Prussian troops to the Camino de Santiago pilgrim route that ends at the Along the route you can still see traces of the Ice Age in years later, there were 23 of them. There were 32 jetties Hear the difference Broager Church is well 18 April 1864 were positioned at Gammelmark on The edible frog is the smallest frog in Den- Spanish town of Santiago de Compostela, near the Atlantic the landscape, and along the beach and elsewhere there and 50 departures each day. The ships transported a million known because it has From 2–18 April, grenades rained down upon the entrench- Broagerland. mark. At dusk it makes little short croaks. Ocean. are many relics from the brick industry’s era, e.g. the passengers each year. two spires. The church ment, and the Danes were unable to counterattack because The natterjack toad is grey or brownish Gateway to Europe abandoned brickworks in Stranderød and Brændstoft. The steamships operated until World War I. was built in the 12th their cannons were too old. The enemy assault began at The landscape with a distinctive yellow stripe. Its croak Adder Stone century. The Gothic 10:00 on 18 April, and one by one the Danish positions fell. Between Padborg and Kruså, Gendarmstien sounds like a cicada or like someone You may find adder stones spires were built around 1400. Legend has By 14:00, the Danes had lost and retreated to Als. passes through a distinctive tunnel val- Life as a border gendarme blowing through a comb. ley, formed during the last Ice Age over walking the Gendarmstien. it that the two spires are memorials to two Bov Museum/Oldemorstoft *1c The route passes small houses that were built for the Edible frogs can grow to 10 cm long. Their 10,000 years ago. The area has steep cliffs Find enough and you sisters from a nearby castle. The collection includes a copy of gendarmes. The life of a gendarme was peaceful but Cathrinesminde Teglværks- short croaks can come in volleys, like a and ravines and many springs, lakes and can join them on a string the 12th century Frøslevskrinet, there were dangers too, especially during World War II. museum (museum) *7a machine gun. watercourses. and protect your house which was probably brought to Denmark In 1944 during the occupation, every single Danish police officer There were once eight brickworks The destroyed Dybbøl Mill in 1864 Pay careful attention against evil charms. Called Hidden from Southern Europe by Christian pilgrims. was arrested and 291 border gendarmes were sent to Frøslevlej- on Iller Beach. Only Cathrines- Historiecenteret to the vertical cliffs ”Hühnergott”in German, works of art The Crown Prince and Crown Princess ren, a prisoner of war camp, from which 141 were deported to the minde brickworks (1732-1968) 1864 *10a is a and you may catch they were once believed to have magical Three large works of art of Denmark were given a copy of Frøs- Neuengamme concentration camp where 36 of them died. The remains, now a museum where museum on the top sight of the rare powers and could protect people and are hidden in the area levskrinet as a wedding gift from South head of the Border Gendarmerie, S.B. Paludan-Müller, was killed you can explore the history and of Dybbøl Bank where you can kingfisher which animals from disease. around Cathrinesminde Jutlandic residents in 2004. in his home in 1944. There is a memorial to him at Gråsten. *5c lives of the workers. learn about the war. Next to builds nests deep in Teglværksmuseum. Try to the cliffs. find them. Dybbøl Mill *10b. “Den Krumme Vej”(The Crooked Road) S.B.Paludan-Müller Cathrinesminde with a view of Holnis on the German side of the fjord.

Kruså to Kollund approx. 5 km Sandager to Egernsund approx. 5 km Brunsnæs to Kragesand approx. 10 km Sønderborg town approx. 3 km

“Mum! Alsion Danish or German? Vote Danish.” Black Wood- The forgotten artists’ colony The Pirates are There are many Arriving in Sønder- Art Nouveau buildings On this part of the Gendarmstien you are walk- pecker holes This part of the route is next to water, where 100 coming edible plants in borg, you cross a There are examples of art ing on a very special border because it was The Black Wood- years ago there were numerous brickworks and Recreation and There is nothing more the woods and bridge linking the nouveau buildings with decided by popular vote. pecker is very rare in countless jetties. The area was also popular for recreational idyllic than walking on on the beach. mainland to Als – offering a beautifully decorated facades Denmark. This large, throughout Sønderborg. This At the Treaty of Versailles at the end of World War I in and inspirational pursuits. the Gendarmstien on Hedges are laden with fantastic view – to the north impressive bird can inspiration blackberries and nuts in kind of architecture is almost 1919, it was decided that the border between Germany Until reunification in 1920, people and artists from Germany a summer’s day next lies Alsion, where there are use its strong bill to autumn, and there are Wood sorrel exclusive to South Jutland in and Denmark should be decided by a referendum. The strike the trunk of a tree up to 20 times in flocked to the area to stay at health resorts or the artists’ *5b Gråsten Castle to the calm waters of businesses, a concert hall and the University of Southern Denmark because the area was under Flensborg Fjord. But the area has known dangers too – more exotic delicacies: referendum was carried out in 1920. just two seconds. So, keep a sharp lookout colony in Egernsund. A Royal retreat Eating out tart forest floor wood sorrel in early spring. Denmark with the largest population of foreign students in German control. The current border was decided by that vote. when you see a tree with Black Woodpecker The artists’ colony is almost forgotten in Denmark but still Gråsten was built by Count Ahlefeldt in the storms, floods and pirates! Delightful sea buckthorn; the orange berries Denmark. However, minority groups of Danes and Germans ended up holes. well known in Germany, as famous there as the Skagen 17th century. The castle belonged to one of During times of war in the Middle Ages, the King might plucked after the first frost and crunchy sea Opposite is the barracks building (Kasernebygningen) over Enjoy tilting at the ring in on the ‘wrong’ side of the border. Painters are in Denmark. Museumsberg Flensburg has a Denmark’s most influential families until the grant pirates the right to plunder enemy ships. kale that grows on the beach at Kragesand Alssund. It was built by the German navy in 1907. Sønderborg in July Both countries offer a lot of support to these minority com- permanent collection that includes about 50 paintings government purchased the castle for DKK 5 and elsewhere. To the south at the harbour mouth lies Sønderborg Castle, Jousting and tilting at the ring munities with schools, kindergartens, newspapers and as- by Egernsund artists. The picture shown here is by Jacob million in 1921. *8b Skrækkeshøj was home to a pirates’ lair and the pirate built in the Middle Ages to protect the realm. were popular entertainments for medieval *2b Kobbermølle The Royal Family has used Gråsten Castle sociations helping them to retain their respective languages (copper mill) Nöbbe, from 1890. ”Den Røde Ons” (The Red Ons). kings and princes. since 1935 and they spend part of their sum- Many towns in South Jutland have summer and cultures. Founded by Christian mer holidays there each year. *8a On Højvandsstenen in Røjhus you can see how high the water IV of Denmark Gravenstein apple from Gråsten Healing rose hips tilting at the ring The beautiful castle garden with its nume- reached during a storm in 1872. competitions. around 1600. The mill Denmark’s national fruit has been rous roses is open to the public when the Rose hips are well-known as the cultivated in the castle garden for used water power Royal Family are away and it boasts an orange fruit filled with ’itching Sønderborg Castle *11c to make copper hundreds of years. Originally from France, the powder’. But they’re also full of vitamins, fibre You can learn about From Kruså to Kollund, the Gendarmstien passes ancient Gravenstein apple tree. Pirate Alf Built around 1200, it was developed in the Middle Ages and brass plate for apple was introduced into Denmark by count and nutrients. Rose hips are the tasty fruits the jousting traditi- mainly through hilly coastal woods. Formed during At the end of the 13th century, a pirate called and became the country’s strongest castle. It was used as ships and roofs. The yellow mill worker Frederik Ahlefeldt the Younger in 1669. of many different kinds of wild roses. They ons at Sønderborg The democratic a hospital during the Schleswig Wars in the 19th century. After the the Ice Age, the area has hills, steep slopes, deep houses are similar to houses in Nyboder in The Gravenstein’s popularity extends well Alf caused mayhem around Flensborg Fjord and out to can be eaten raw (avoid the hairs) or used to Ringridermuseum defeat at Dybbøl and the loss of South Jutland, it was used as a Prus- Forwards and gorges and abundant wildlife. And with a little luck, you can Copenhagen. beyond Denmark. Cuttings from the tree have the Baltic Sea. Legend has it that he would hide around make jam, jelly or syrup. *11d during the sian barracks. The Danish state has owned it since 1920. get very close to the forest-dwelling animals. border Kobbermølle sits on German soil. been sold all around the world, and in distant Gråsten. Several place names can be traced to him. Alf was summer. It is now a museum of South Jutlandic history (16th century California they hold the annual ”Gravenstein captured and hanged in 1298. His booty was never found. backwards in time onwards). Border crossing at Skomagerhus Apple Fair”.

Kollund to Sønderhav approx. 4 km Egernsund to Rendbjerg approx. 2 km Kragesand to Stensigmose approx. 7 km Sønderborg to Høruphav approx. 5.5 km Skydestranden Trillen Strong German-Danish bonds When you cross the bridge you are in the heart People have lived next to Gendarmstien for more World War Legacy Goosander All along the beach you can literally see the close of the brick industry – an industry that stretched than 4,500 years. Fertile soils meant abundant food The route through The goosander is a relationship between Germany and Denmark. Once from Denmark to the whole of Northern Europe and the forests were rich in prey. Sønderborg passes very rare breeding Alpine Newt it was all Danish. Once it was all German. Today it represents and from the Middle Ages to today. Ancient burial many old military buildings and bird in Denmark. Gendarmstien passes through the only area Bricks, bricks war memorials. Usually sighted in peaceful cross-border coexistence and mutual cooperation. in Denmark where the alpine newt lives. It For over 1,000 years people collected clay from below The cliff at Stensigmose *9d mounds *9c the soil surface and used it to build homes, churches and From branch to branch There are well- Skydestranden was closed to the winter, it rarely breeds Glücksborg Castle lies on the other side of the fjord and has has a distinctive yellow and reddish orange The route passes the Egernsund- There was plenty of life before people arrived. The in Denmark. With the a rich Danish royal history – Frederik VII died there and castles. Until the middle of the 20th century, tiles and everywhere! preserved barrows in Skelde Kobbelskov public during World War II. The abdomen and throat. broen bridge. According to legend, the ice has deposited mussels and snails in sandy layers occupying forces used it as a shooting range. Immediately after municipal merger in Christian IX came from there. bricks were still mainly made by hand. Both women and forest. Most are burial mounds, and inside sound was once so narrow that the oak tree in the cliff at Stensigmose. Black bands show where the veg- the chambers people have found skeletal the war ended in May 1945, the bodies of five Danish resistance 2007, Sønderborg Municipality became An excellent example of the South Jutlandic people’s children helped, and frequently whole families worked at branches on either side stretched across it, etation turned to peat during the ice Age 75,000 years ago. fighters were discovered buried there. responsible for protecting the goosander. the brickworks. remains, flint axes, amber jewellery and Wonderful nature community spirit, despite the politics of the past, so that you could see the squirrels cross the earthen vessels. As part of this process, nest boxes have quarrels and war, is the creation of holiday camps for sound - hence its name meaning ”Squirrel been installed in the area, including Trillen. children in need. Since the 20th century, children from *6a Egernsund church is made from local stone. The foreign Sound”. The Danish elephant Ancient traces Brudesten *9b South and North Schleswig have been able to stay here. names on many of the gravestones show how many different Sensationally, an elephant’s molar teeth and tusk were found in On the coast there is a truly In Kollund the Gendarmstien passes Julemærkehjemmet nationalities worked in the brickworks. the cliff in 1906. The straight-tusked elephant could grow to 4 m in gigantic stone called Brudesten. Trillen and De Syv Søstre Orchids along height and lived in Denmark 130,000 years ago during a warm period Fjordmark, established in 1938. Gendarmstien Legend has it that a man left his wife (the seven sisters) The fabled between ice ages. on top of the stone on the way home You may be lucky Just before Høruphav the route goes through Find bricks to Flensborg after their wedding in enough to find orchids Trillen, a nature reserve. The wetlands have abundant The beach is full of bricks of all different shapes Sønderborg. Okseø islands along the route, like the *3a Two beautiful green islands rising out of the blue and colours. They came from the 76 Vætter (evil little creatures) bird life. At high tide the lakes fill with salt water. The common twayblade waters of the fjord. According to legend, Margaret I died brickworks that once operated in the area. Along Gendarmstien you may encounter lakes become very saline because of evaporation, and (image), the broad-leaved here or close by as she returned from peace negotiations Sometimes you can even see which ”vættelys”, fossilised examples of an extinct only salt-tolerant vegetation grows here. helleborine and the sword- in Flensborg in 1412. Visitors can sail from Sønderhav to factory the brick came from species of octopus from the Cretaceous Period more Liebestunnel *9a Trillen has some fine Austrian pine trees that are over leaved helleborine. Enjoy Store Okseø in the summer season. because the name is imprinted than 65 million years ago. The trees on the slope form a tunnel just discovering them on your 100 years old. Named ”the seven sisters”, though there in the brick. The name is related to the Danish word for evil little creatures east of Kragesand. ”Liebestunnel” means The tomb of Margaret I in Visitors can sail from Sønderhav to journey, but remember that are only six left. (vætter) that twinkled in the moors and meadows at night. tunnel of love. Roskilde Cathedral Store Okseø in the summer season all orchids are protected! Goosander