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PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 38 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

Northern Jutland p259

Central Jutland p216

Copenhagen Zealand p40 Southern p84 Bornholm Jutland p158 p190 p140

Møn, Falster & Lolland p123

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 313 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

iPhone phrasebooks at the Apple App Store. Directory A–Z ...... 314 Transport ...... 323 Language

As a member of the Scandinavian or North You’re welcome. Selv tak. sel taak Germanic language family, Danish is closely Excuse me. Undskyld mig. awn·skewl mai related to Swedish and Norwegian. With about Language ...... 331 5.5 million speakers, it’s the o՗ cial language Sorry. Undskyld. awn·skewl of and has co-o՗ cial status – along- side Greenlandic and Faroese respectively – How are you? in Greenland and the Faroese Islands. Until Hvordan går det? vor·dan gawr dey 1944 it was also the o՗ cial language of Ice- land and today is taught in schools there as Good, thanks. the À rst foreign language. Danish is also a Godt, tak. got taak Index ...... 343 minority language in the area of Schleswig- What’s your name? Holstein in northern Germany, where it has Hvad hedder va hey·dha some 30,000 speakers. De/du? (pol/inf) dee/doo Most of the sounds in Danish have equiva- My name is … lents in English, and by reading our coloured Mit navn er … mit nown ir … pronunciation guides as if they were English, you’re sure to be understood. There are short Do you speak English? Map Legend ...... 351 and long versions of each vowel, and addi- Taler De/du ta·la dee/doo tional ‘combined vowels’ or diphthongs. Con- engelsk? (pol/inf) eng·elsk sonants can be ‘swallowed’ and even omitted I don’t understand. completely, creating (together with vowels) Jeg forstår ikke. yai for·stawr i·ke a glottal stop or stød steudh which sounds rather like the Cockney pronunciation of the ‘tt’ in ‘bottle’. Note that ai is pronounced as in ACCOMMODATION ‘aisle’, aw as in ‘saw’, eu as the ‘u’ in ‘nurse’, ew Where’s a …? Hvor er der …? vor ir deyr … as the ‘ee’ in ‘see’ with rounded lips, ow as in ‘how’, dh as the ‘th’ in ‘that’, and r is trilled. The campsite en camping- m in kaa ·ping· stressed syllables are in italics in our pronun- plads plas ciation guides. Polite and informal forms are guesthouse et gæstehus s it ge ·te·hoos indicated with ‘pol’ and ‘inf’ respectively

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Carolyn Bain Cristian Bonetto, Andrew Stone

00-title-den6.indd 1 2/02/2012 3:17:42 PM Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required

COPENHAGEN ...... 40 MØN, FALSTER & AROUND COPENHAGEN . . . 81 LOLLAND ...... 123 Louisiana ...... 81 MØN ...... 125 Arken Museum of Stege ...... 125 Modern Art ...... 82 Ulvshale & Nyord ...... 127 Charlottenlund ...... 82 Keldby ...... 129 Klampenborg ...... 83 Elmelunde ...... 129 Lyngby ...... 83 Møns Klint & Around . . . . .130 Klintholm Havn ...... 131 ZEALAND ...... 84 Western Møn ...... 132 ØRESUND COAST ...... 85 Bogø ...... 133 Rungsted ...... 85 FALSTER ...... 133 Helsingør ...... 88 Nykøbing F ...... 133 INLAND TOWNS ...... 94 Marielyst ...... 135 Hillerød ...... 94 LOLLAND ...... 137 Esrum Kloster ...... 95 Maribo ...... 137 Fredensborg ...... 96 Fuglsang Kunstmuseum . . .138 NORTH COAST ...... 97 Around Lolland ...... 139 Hornbæk ...... 97 Gilleleje ...... 99 BORNHOLM ...... 140 Tisvildeleje...... 100 Rønne ...... 142 FJORD TOWNS ...... 102 Åkirkeby ...... 145 Roskilde ...... 102 Interior Woodlands ...... 146 Lejre ...... 106 Dueodde ...... 146 Dragsholm Slot ...... 107 Snogebæk ...... 146 SOUTHERN ZEALAND . . . . 107 Hallegård ...... 147 Køge ...... 107 Nexø ...... 147 Vallø ...... 112 Svaneke ...... 148 Sorø ...... 112 Gudhjem & Melsted ...... 150 Trelleborg ...... 116 Around Gudhjem & Storebælts- Melsted ...... 153 forbindelsen ...... 117 Sandvig & Allinge ...... 154 Næstved & Around...... 118 Hammershus Slot ...... 155 Vordingborg ...... 121 Hammeren...... 156 Christiansø ...... 156 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

FUNEN ...... 158 CENTRAL Hjørring ...... 276 ...... 160 JUTLAND ...... 216 Løkken ...... 277 AROUND FUNEN ...... 170 AARHUS ...... 217 Hanstholm ...... 278 ...... 170 DJURSLAND ...... 234 Rubjerg Knude ...... 279 Ladbyskibet & Ebeltoft ...... 234 Klitmøller ...... 279 Vikingemuseet Ladby . . . . 172 Mols Bjerge Thy National Park ...... 280 Egeskov Slot ...... 172 National Park ...... 236 Hindsholm ...... 172 Grenaa ...... 236 ...... 173 Around Djursland ...... 237 ...... 176 THE LAKE DISTRICT . . . . . 238 Tåsinge ...... 180 Silkeborg ...... 238 LANGELAND ...... 181 Ry ...... 242 Rudkøbing ...... 182 Heart ...... 242 Northern Langeland . . . . .183 Himmelbjerget ...... 244 Southern Langeland . . . . .184 THE INTERIOR ...... 244 ÆRØ ...... 185 Jelling ...... 244 Ærøskøbing ...... 186 Billund & Legoland ...... 246 Marstal ...... 188 Randers ...... 249 Søby ...... 189 Hobro ...... 252 Rebild Bakker & SOUTHERN Rold Skov ...... 253 JUTLAND ...... 190 Viborg ...... 254 Kolding ...... 191 CENTRAL WEST COAST . . 256 Esbjerg ...... 194 Hvide Sande ...... 256 Fanø ...... 198 Ringkøbing ...... 257 Ribe...... 199 Wadden Sea NORTHERN National Park ...... 206 JUTLAND ...... 259 Rømø ...... 206 Aalborg ...... 260 Tønder ...... 209 Frederikshavn ...... 267 Møgeltønder ...... 211 Sæby ...... 268 Sønderborg ...... 212 Læsø ...... 269 Frøslevlejren ...... 213 Skagen ...... 271 Gråsten Palace ...... 214 Råbjerg Mile ...... 275 Als ...... 214 Hirtshals ...... 275 Denmark Top Experiences To Kristiansand To Larvik To Oslo (Norway) (Norway) (Norway) Bornholm Gothenburg S W E D E N Relax on Denmark's perfect Gammel To Stavanger; Skagen Skagen Bergen; holiday island (p000) (Norway) Christiansø Skagen To Sandvig Enjoy sunshine, seafood Hirtshals Ålbæk To Faroe Sweden Allinge beaches and art (p000) Islands; Tornby Iceland Gudhjem Sindal Hasle BORNHOLM Hjørring Frederikshavn 0 40 km Svaneke Øster 0 20 miles Rønne Østerby Nexø Løkken Vrå Havn Sæby Læsø Åkirkeby Brønderslev To Vesterø Køge Byrum To Germany Same Scale as Blokhus Havn Main Map Tranum Hjallerup Strand Aabybro Hanstholm Asaa Varberg Fjerritslev Nørresundby Klitmøller Aalborg Hals K A T T E G A T Thisted Nibe Limfjord Stenbjerg Silkeborg Støvring Ponder the great outdoors and bog-body mysteries (p000) Nykøbing M Aars Skørping Agger Hurup Farsø Hadsund Aarhus Anholt Halmstad Jutland's West Coast Assens Explore Denmark's surprising Let the wind fill your Hobro second city (p000) kitesurfing sails (p000) Mariager Skive Lemvig Handest Helsingør Vinderup Struer Randers Visit Hamlet's majestic castle Viborg (p000) Auning Nimtofte Bjerringbro Holstebro Grenaa Karup Rønde Tirstrup Ulfborg Copenhagen Dråby Envy the locals' sky-high Ebeltoft quality of life (p000) Herning Ikast Silkeborg Aarhus Gilleleje Ringkøbing Ry Sjællands Odde Helsingør Helsing- Kibæk JUTLAND Skanderborg Odden Frederiksværk borg Hvide Sande Hundested Skjern Odder Samsø Humlebæk Rørvig Hillerød Lynæs Rungsted N O R T H Hov Frederikssund Give Horsens Sælvig Øresund S E A Nørre Snaptun Nebel Ølstykke Lyngby Jelling Hellerup Billund Legoland Holbæk Henne Strand Embrace your inner child Jyderup COPENHAGEN Henne Vejle Roskilde Strandby Juelsminde (p000) Varde Korshavn St Dragør o ZEALAND Oksby re Gørlev Holsted Strib Køge Søndersø Køge Esbjerg B Bugt Båring æ Sorø Nørre Kerteminde l Ringsted Nordby Vejen Kolding t Rindby Bramming Åby Korup Slagelse Store Heddinge Fanø Jels Årup Odense To Rønne Sønderho (Bornholm) Ribe Christiansfeld Korsør Fakse W a d d e n Årslev Næstved Rødvig Vojens Assens Skælskør To Harwich FUNEN Ørbæk Fakse S e a Ringe (UK) Toftlund Haderslev Hårby Ladeplads Rømø L i l l e Korinth Kværndrup Roskilde Fakse Skærbæk B æ l t Lakolk Bøjden Lohals Investigate Viking ships Præstø Bugt Faaborg and reposing royals (p000) Havneby Løgumkloster Nordborg Svendborg Aabenraa Stege ALS Vordingborg List Tåsinge Augustenborg Fynshav Rudkøbing Spodsbjerg Møgeltønder Nørre MØN Gråsten Søby Sylt Højer Tønder Alslev Tinglev Mommark Ærøskøbing Tårs Stubbekøbing Kruså Dybbøl Sønderborg Nakskov Sakskøbing Ærø Padborg Marstal LANGELAND Horreby Søllested Maribo Nykøbing F Flensburg Bagenkop Holeby FALSTER Ribe Rødby Marielyst Nysted Soak up centuries of Rødbyhavn history (p000) LOLLAND Gedser ELEVATION Puttgarden B A L T I C 225m G E R M A N Y 150m S E A 75m Kiel 0 G E R M A N Y 25

Itiner­ Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a aries lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

NORTHSEA

SW ED EN

DE NM AR K

Silkeborg #• #• Aarhus

Jutland Legoland #• #_ COPENHAGEN Roskilde #• Kolding #• Odense #• #• Zealand Bornholm Ribe Funen BALTIC SEA

GE RM AN Y

Two Weeks Denmark’s Classic Hits

The beauty of Denmark’s compact size is that it never takes too long to get from point A to B. To cover the classic sites, start in Copenhagen and soak up the riches (cultural, culinary, retail) of the capital. From there, it’s a short hop west to Ros­ kilde to investigate Denmark’s royal and Viking heritage. Further west, Odense offers up fairy-tale charm in abundance and plenty of ways to connect with the city’s famous native son, Hans Christian Andersen. Stop in Kolding for a polished mix of the old and cutting-edge before you reach history-soaked Ribe, Denmark’s oldest town, ooz- ing chocolate-box appeal. From here, you can pause on the history lessons for a hefty dose of childhood nostalgia at Legoland, then some lakeside R&R in Silkeborg (go canoeing or do a cruise through the picturesque lakes of the area). Finally, stop by cosmopolitan Aarhus, the country’s second city. It holds a few surprises – not least its rainbow-topped art museum – and from here, you can take a ferry to northern Zealand for an easy and scenic return to Copenhagen. , - . A . lot Fanø . Head . Head S for top- for warrants warrants #• rnholm is a must-see must-see a is Bo , an enchanting , an enchanting Aarhus IC Egeskov Egeskov A Helsingør Aalborg LT SE dense Møn , , and on to southern BA O Als EDEN SW , then on to to on then , r ingø ls COPENHAGEN He n will recharge your batteries. your recharge will ilkeborg • # #_ #• S Mø #• Ærø #• ebæk ge Kø , then catch a ferry out to the Baltic bombshell bombshell Baltic to the a out ferry catch , then Huml Køge v for history lessons with a decidedly friendly face (mock (mock face friendly decidedly a with lessons history for agen ko y ibe , and the marvellous Renaissance treats at at treats Renaissance marvellous the and , Sk ø #• R db g #• Slot Eges Ær • # or La Aarhus #• #• is essential – this place will blow your mind with its astounding astounding its with mind your blow will place – this is essential Ladby Aalb ense s • # #• Al and magnificent castles such as Kronborg Slot at at Slot asKronborg such castles and magnificent Od K some quality time in your itinerary, and make a time some in quality of couple your itinerary, day trips Y g AR • # , hugging Denmark’s northernmost tip. Make time to admire the artwork, artwork, the admire to time Make tip. northernmost Denmark’s hugging , d AN land . go Legoland tlan – spend a few days exploring the island’s bike trails, sandy beaches and gas and beaches sandy trails, bike island’s the exploring days few a spend – Le DENM Silkebor Ju GERM kagen #• H ande S #• A S Humlebæk SE outside the outside to capital check out the superb modern art at the Museum Louisiana in Got some time up your sleeve and a desire to delve deep into Denmark? Designate Designate Denmark? into deep to delve a and desire sleeve up your time some Got Copenhagen Ribe #• NORT e e nø id nd #• Hvide Hvide A detour to A detour From here, wend your way east to leafy, lakeside lakeside leafy, to east way your wend here, From Onward Onward west – a ferry can take you from Ærø to easygoing Bornholm Head back across southern Zealand to reach the island of Funen. Funen. of island the reach to Zealand southern across back Head Fa Hv Sa and take a pause in Sønderho. in pause a take and made from the creations Then brick. back plastic humble it’s to the west coast for more kitesurfing for perfect just winds, Sea of North courtesy time – this activity mind-blowing in Viking settlements, a nightwatchman’s tour of the cobbled streets), plus some outstanding outstanding some plus streets), cobbled the of tour nightwatchman’s a idyllic settlements, to Viking trip 12-minute the for Esbjerg of out boat a on Jump nearby. bird-watching a a stop for its and Utzon a architecture Viking burial but ground, the seas. best comes angry last at the in toe a dip and cinematic light northern incredible the in soak seafood, fine in indulge south to potter about pretty, historic historic pretty, about to potter south of of city northern rejuvenated The noshing. and museum-mooching notch Jutland, where you can reach reach can you where Jutland, Three to Weeks Four Denmark in Detail tronomic treats. Once you’re back on Zealand, head further south to south further head on Zealand, back you’re Once treats. tronomic island with some of the country’s most dramatic scenery – for such a flat country that’s not not that’s country flat a such for – scenery dramatic most country’s as the of are and some sea with island jade-green a over sharply rise Møn of cliffs white-chalk the but much, saying picture. a as pretty day or two on the friendly old seafaring island of of island seafaring old friendly the on two or day for its various tributes to hometown-hero Hans Christian Andersen, but take time to visit to visit time take but Andersen, Christian Hans to hometown-hero tributes various its for at grave ship Viking the

26 Plan your Trip itineraries itineraries

27 Plan your Trip ­ EDEN offers offers anders SW R can get your your get can puts on her Hobro Aalborg , which has some fine some has , which n ommerland Læsø av S #• to take a step back in time Aarhus ederiksh Læsø Fårup Fårup by Skagen Fr • # Sæ #• # • #• e g il • # or lb us g M • # Aa s • # # • Aarh s Råbjer • # nder , a delightful slice , of slice life with a a seaside art delightful winning you can connect with Danish literature and go back back go and literature Danish with connect can you #• o let you know mother nature is still in charge here, Ra rtshal br en #• Hi Ho d æby kk S kagen Lø northern Jutland delivers, with some quirky treats alongside alongside treats quirky some with delivers, Jutland northern K S – but not too much. Nearby Nearby much. too not but – AR , catch , a catch ferry to the of island ommerlan NM åbjerg åbjerg Mile R p S DE ru you can largest admire more of at her Europe’s handiwork northern Løkken Få H A Hirtshals Frederikshavn SE For some seaside R&R, R&R, seaside some For the expected sun, sea, sand and seafood. Start from from Start seafood. and sand sea, sun, expected the museums, including the ARoS art museum, and head north, stopping in stopping north, head and art museum, ARoS the including museums, for a man-made rainforest and a left-field dose of Elvis kitsch. Sleepy Sleepy kitsch. Elvis of dose left-field a and rainforest man-made a for NORT From From best face to impress you with a rejuvenated waterfront and the final design from revered revered from design final the and waterfront a rejuvenated with you to impress face best sweet At Utzon. Jørn architect for seconds at bounteous seafood buffets. seafood bounteous at seconds for history history in the shape of a 10th-century Viking ring fortress, before Two Weeks Two Northern Exposure heart pumping with amusement rides and a waterpark. You’ll return to return with the Aarhus You’ll and rides a with amusement waterpark. heart pumping away. blown truly and well cobwebs while while in in Relax aquarium. about about sand dunes of (salt baths optional). Next is optional). baths (salt museum, boutique hotels and alfresco dockside dining. Southwest of Skagen, the walk Pep Roig / Alamy © (above) Louisiana art museum (p81). art museum Louisiana (above) near northern tip, (left) (p271). Skagen » » » »

Holger Leue / lonely planet iamges ©

28 Plan your Trip itineraries Plan your Trip itineraries 29 - ­ øn S and on to Langeland Falster , connected by road , connected , an enchanting island island enchanting an , Als sland Hopping sland Ærø I . . And now in you’re the southeast . . This trio is known as Denmark’s , , then across to dering option is option rural for after those dering Most travellers between Copenhagen Copenhagen between travellers Most direct the quickest, take and Jutland route across Funen, but this mean Møn From From the capital make a beeline south Western Lolland connects to connects Lolland Western retreats and quiet villages, with small ferries ferries small with villages, quiet and retreats potential. island-hopping providing to Funen South the in you’re now and – ferry by in of green stretch sleepy This Archipelago. to connects turn with drip here Villages exploring. worth well history and maritime are home to crooked old houses. When a on to ferry you’ve there’s had of town your larger the at proper fill, Jutland to derborg to peninsula whole a with Jutland, of corner explore... Lolland the lack may they While Islands’. Sea ‘South coconut palms and hula hoops associated normally with that label, they do offer a fine glimpse of rural Scandinavian island andrustic beaches sandy fields, rolling life: chalky Møn’s to time Allocate houses. manor Falster), (on beach glorious Marielyst’s cliffs, parks. theme Lolland’s and One Week Southern ------is are . and the , , where you , , much more Hornbæk Tisvildeleje . It’s hard to decide decide to hard It’s . Copenhagen oskilde Humlebæk R Helsingør Hillerød and Hornbæk. mains, fairytale castles, Viking ships castles, mains, fairytale architecture. cutting-edge and An easy and accessible circuit of north north of circuit accessible and easy An re royal beaches, glam offers Zealand Start Start in fjord-side For For northern light and sunbathing Further along the coast stands historic Louisiana Louisiana Museum – its splendid architec ture ture rivals its collection of the along contemporary drive picturesque but A short art. to leads Riviera’ ‘Danish One Week North Zealand Gems can can check out Dan of Viking worth longships millennia’s a to and respects your pay finest at country’s the queens and kings ish cathedral. North from here is magnificent Frederiksborg Slot, dominating the unas of town suming inte baroque the impressive, more is which grounds. regal the or riors beaches: to head the northern Scandi-style, the chic hotels bathing of between sculptures the are as a stop, worth Gilleleje appre to go gorgeous and young the where own. their and beauty natural the both ciate Kronborg Slot in than simply the home of Be sure to Hamlet. the take scenic ditherer the existential coastal road south to OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Carolyn Bain Coordinating author, Southern Jutland, Central Jutland, Northern Jutland As a teenager, Melbourne-born Carolyn spent a year living smack in the heart of Jut- land, and today speaks (often mangled) Danish with a jysk (Jutlandish) accent, according to those who know such things. Since her year among the Danes, Carolyn has frequently returned to dose up on history, hospitality and hygge, and she drops in while updating guidebooks to various parts of northern Europe (including Sweden and Estonia). She also covered Jutland for the previous edition of this title. As with every Denmark visit, on this trip she was in heaven revisiting favourite haunts such as Skagen and Ribe, coveting designer chairs, rummaging in fl ea markets and lingering over brunch plates. Read more about Carolyn Bain at: lonelyplanet.com/members/carolynbain Cristian Bonetto Copenhagen; Zealand; Møn, Falster & Lolland; Bornholm As a fan of modernist furniture, locavore menus, and cycle-toned bodies, Cristian’s lust for Denmark was fate. Since his fi rst visit in 2003, the reformed soap scribe has developed a chronic obsession with the country’s enlightened attitudes and creative edge. His musings on all things Danish have appeared in Lonely Planet’s Copenhagen Encounter and Scandinavia guides, as well as in numerous magazines across the globe. When he’s not nibbling on wood sorrel, peddling across Møn, or downloading Alphabeat songs, chances are you’ll fi nd Cristian cool-hunting in his other favourite haunts – New York, Naples and his beloved hometown, Melbourne. Read more about Cristian Bonetto at: lonelyplanet.com/members/cristianbonetto Andrew Stone Funen, History, Directory Journalist and author Andrew fi rst visited Denmark in the late 1990s to see friends who had settled there and has been back almost every year since for work and pleasure. In his time he has explored most of the country while researching the previous two editions of this title as well as three editions of Lonely Planet’s Scandinavia.

Read more about Andrew Stone at: lonelyplanet.com/members/andrewstone

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 6th edition – May 2012 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 281 2 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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