©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 38 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips Northern Jutland p259 Central Jutland p216 Copenhagen Zealand p40 Southern p84 Funen Bornholm Jutland p158 p190 p140 Møn, Falster & Lolland p123 PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 313 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP iPhone phrasebooks at the Apple App Store. Directory A–Z ..................... 314 Transport ............................323 Language As a member of the Scandinavian or North You’re welcome. Selv tak. sel taak Germanic language family, Danish is closely Excuse me. Undskyld mig. awn·skewl mai related to Swedish and Norwegian. With about Language ............................ 331 5.5 million speakers, it’s the o՗ cial language Sorry. Undskyld. awn·skewl of Denmark and has co-o՗ cial status – along- side Greenlandic and Faroese respectively – How are you? in Greenland and the Faroese Islands. Until Hvordan går det? vor·dan gawr dey 1944 it was also the o՗ cial language of Ice- land and today is taught in schools there as Good, thanks. the À rst foreign language. Danish is also a Godt, tak. got taak Index ....................................343 minority language in the area of Schleswig- What’s your name? Holstein in northern Germany, where it has Hvad hedder va hey·dha some 30,000 speakers. De/du? (pol/inf) dee/doo Most of the sounds in Danish have equiva- My name is … lents in English, and by reading our coloured Mit navn er … mit nown ir … pronunciation guides as if they were English, you’re sure to be understood. There are short Do you speak English? Map Legend ........................ 351 and long versions of each vowel, and addi- Taler De/du ta·la dee/doo tional ‘combined vowels’ or diphthongs. Con- engelsk? (pol/inf) eng·elsk sonants can be ‘swallowed’ and even omitted I don’t understand. completely, creating (together with vowels) Jeg forstår ikke. yai for·stawr i·ke a glottal stop or stød steudh which sounds rather like the Cockney pronunciation of the ‘tt’ in ‘bottle’. Note that ai is pronounced as in ACCOMMODATION ‘aisle’, aw as in ‘saw’, eu as the ‘u’ in ‘nurse’, ew Where’s a …? Hvor er der …? vor ir deyr … as the ‘ee’ in ‘see’ with rounded lips, ow as in ‘how’, dh as the ‘th’ in ‘that’, and r is trilled. The campsite en camping- min kaa ·ping· stressed syllables are in italics in our pronun- plads plas ciation guides. Polite and informal forms are guesthouse et gæstehus s it ge ·te·hoos indicated with ‘pol’ and ‘inf’ respectively THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Carolyn Bain Cristian Bonetto, Andrew Stone 00-title-den6.indd 1 2/02/2012 3:17:42 PM Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required COPENHAGEN . 40 MØN, FALSTER & AROUND COPENHAGEN . 81 LOLLAND . 123 Louisiana . 81 MØN . 125 Arken Museum of Stege . 125 Modern Art . .82 Ulvshale & Nyord . 127 Charlottenlund . .82 Keldby . .129 Klampenborg . .83 Elmelunde . .129 Lyngby . .83 Møns Klint & Around . .130 Klintholm Havn . 131 ZEALAND . .84 Western Møn . .132 ØRESUND COAST . 85 Bogø . 133 Rungsted . .85 FALSTER . 133 Helsingør . .88 Nykøbing F . 133 INLAND TOWNS . 94 Marielyst . 135 Hillerød . .94 LOLLAND . 137 Esrum Kloster . .95 Maribo . 137 Fredensborg . .96 Fuglsang Kunstmuseum . .138 NORTH COAST . 97 Around Lolland . .139 Hornbæk . .97 Gilleleje . .99 BORNHOLM . 140 Tisvildeleje. .100 Rønne . 142 FJORD TOWNS . 102 Åkirkeby . .145 Roskilde . .102 Interior Woodlands . .146 Lejre . .106 Dueodde . .146 Dragsholm Slot . .107 Snogebæk . .146 SOUTHERN ZEALAND . 107 Hallegård . 147 Køge . 107 Nexø . 147 Vallø . 112 Svaneke . .148 Sorø . 112 Gudhjem & Melsted . .150 Trelleborg . 116 Around Gudhjem & Storebælts- Melsted . 153 forbindelsen . 117 Sandvig & Allinge . .154 Næstved & Around. 118 Hammershus Slot . 155 Vordingborg . 121 Hammeren. .156 Christiansø . .156 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book. On the Road FUNEN . 158 CENTRAL Hjørring . .276 ODENSE . 160 JUTLAND . 216 Løkken . .277 AROUND FUNEN . 170 AARHUS . 217 Hanstholm . .278 Kerteminde . 170 DJURSLAND . 234 Rubjerg Knude . .279 Ladbyskibet & Ebeltoft . .234 Klitmøller . .279 Vikingemuseet Ladby . 172 Mols Bjerge Thy National Park . 280 Egeskov Slot . 172 National Park . .236 Hindsholm . 172 Grenaa . .236 Faaborg . 173 Around Djursland . .237 Svendborg . 176 THE LAKE DISTRICT . 238 Tåsinge . .180 Silkeborg . .238 LANGELAND . .181 Ry . .242 Rudkøbing . .182 Heart . .242 Northern Langeland . .183 Himmelbjerget . .244 Southern Langeland . .184 THE INTERIOR . 244 ÆRØ . 185 Jelling . .244 Ærøskøbing . .186 Billund & Legoland . .246 Marstal . .188 Randers . .249 Søby . .189 Hobro . .252 Rebild Bakker & SOUTHERN Rold Skov . .253 JUTLAND . 190 Viborg . .254 Kolding . 191 CENTRAL WEST COAST . 256 Esbjerg . .194 Hvide Sande . .256 Fanø . .198 Ringkøbing . .257 Ribe. .199 Wadden Sea NORTHERN National Park . 206 JUTLAND . .259 Rømø . 206 Aalborg . 260 Tønder . 209 Frederikshavn . .267 Møgeltønder . 211 Sæby . 268 Sønderborg . 212 Læsø . .269 Frøslevlejren . 213 Skagen . 271 Gråsten Palace . 214 Råbjerg Mile . .275 Als . .214 Hirtshals . .275 Denmark Top Experiences To Kristiansand To Larvik To Oslo (Norway) (Norway) (Norway) Bornholm Gothenburg S W E D E N Relax on Denmark's perfect Gammel To Stavanger; Skagen Skagen Bergen; holiday island (p000) (Norway) Christiansø Skagen To Sandvig Enjoy sunshine, seafood Hirtshals Ålbæk To Faroe Sweden Allinge beaches and art (p000) Islands; Tornby Iceland Gudhjem Sindal Hasle BORNHOLM Hjørring Frederikshavn 0 40 km Svaneke Øster 0 20 miles Rønne Østerby Nexø Løkken Vrå Havn Sæby Læsø Åkirkeby Brønderslev To Vesterø Køge Byrum To Germany Same Scale as Blokhus Havn Main Map Tranum Hjallerup Strand Aabybro Hanstholm Asaa Varberg Fjerritslev Nørresundby Klitmøller Aalborg Hals K A T T E G A T Thisted Nibe Limfjord Stenbjerg Silkeborg Støvring Ponder the great outdoors and bog-body mysteries (p000) Nykøbing M Aars Skørping Agger Hurup Farsø Hadsund Aarhus Anholt Halmstad Jutland's West Coast Assens Explore Denmark's surprising Let the wind fill your Hobro second city (p000) kitesurfing sails (p000) Mariager Skive Lemvig Handest Helsingør Vinderup Struer Randers Visit Hamlet's majestic castle Viborg (p000) Auning Nimtofte Bjerringbro Holstebro Grenaa Karup Rønde Tirstrup Ulfborg Copenhagen Dråby Envy the locals' sky-high Ebeltoft quality of life (p000) Herning Ikast Silkeborg Aarhus Gilleleje Ringkøbing Ry Sjællands Odde Helsingør Helsing- Kibæk JUTLAND Skanderborg Odden Frederiksværk borg Hvide Sande Hundested Skjern Odder Samsø Humlebæk Rørvig Hillerød Lynæs Rungsted N O R T H Hov Frederikssund Give Horsens Sælvig Øresund S E A Nørre Snaptun Nebel Ølstykke Lyngby Jelling Hellerup Billund Legoland Holbæk Henne Strand Embrace your inner child Jyderup COPENHAGEN Henne Vejle Roskilde Strandby Juelsminde (p000) Varde Korshavn Fredericia Bogense St Dragør o ZEALAND Oksby re Gørlev Holsted Strib Otterup Køge Middelfart Søndersø Køge Esbjerg B Bugt Båring Munkebo æ Sorø Nørre Kerteminde l Ringsted Nordby Vejen Kolding t Rindby Bramming Åby Korup Slagelse Store Langeskov Heddinge Fanø Jels Årup Odense Ullerslev To Rønne Sønderho (Bornholm) Ribe Christiansfeld Nyborg Korsør Fakse W a d d e n Glamsbjerg Årslev Næstved Rødvig Vojens Assens Skælskør To Harwich FUNEN Ørbæk Fakse S e a Ringe (UK) Toftlund Haderslev Hårby Ladeplads Rømø L i l l e Korinth Kværndrup Roskilde Fakse Skærbæk B æ l t Lakolk Bøjden Lohals Investigate Viking ships Præstø Bugt Faaborg and reposing royals (p000) Havneby Løgumkloster Nordborg Svendborg Aabenraa Stege ALS Vordingborg List Tåsinge Augustenborg Fynshav Rudkøbing Spodsbjerg Møgeltønder Nørre MØN Gråsten Søby Sylt Højer Tønder Alslev Tinglev Mommark Ærøskøbing Tårs Stubbekøbing Kruså Dybbøl Sønderborg Nakskov Sakskøbing Ærø Padborg Marstal LANGELAND Horreby Søllested Maribo Nykøbing F Flensburg Bagenkop Holeby FALSTER Ribe Rødby Marielyst Nysted Soak up centuries of Rødbyhavn history (p000) LOLLAND Gedser ELEVATION Puttgarden B A L T I C 225m G E R M A N Y 150m S E A 75m Kiel 0 G E R M A N Y 25 itiner­ Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a aries lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers. NORTHSEA SW ED EN DE NM AR K Silkeborg #• #• Aarhus Jutland Legoland #• #_ COPENHAGEN Roskilde #• Kolding #• Odense #• #• Zealand Bornholm Ribe Funen BALTIC SEA GE RM AN Y Two Weeks Denmark’s Classic Hits The beauty of Denmark’s compact size is that it never takes too long to get from point A to B. To cover the classic sites, start in Copenhagen and soak up the riches (cultural, culinary, retail) of the capital. From there, it’s a short hop west to ros­ kilde to investigate Denmark’s royal and Viking heritage. Further west, odense offers up fairy-tale charm in abundance and plenty of ways to connect with the city’s famous native son, Hans Christian Andersen. Stop in Kolding for a polished mix of the old and cutting-edge before you reach history-soaked ribe, Denmark’s oldest town, ooz- ing chocolate-box appeal. From here, you can pause on the history lessons for a hefty dose of childhood nostalgia at Legoland, then some lakeside R&R in silkeborg (go canoeing or do a cruise through the picturesque lakes of the area). Finally, stop by cosmopolitan Aarhus, the country’s second city. It holds a few surprises – not