Cafreal Central

eat out eat out chef special off thechef eaten special track Cafreal Central FlorentineIn Goa, the search for Chicken Cafreal begins and ends at Florentine, the pioneering restaurant that put this Goan fried chicken on the global food map Words VIVEK MENEZES Photographs ASLESH KAMAT aetano D’Costa first encountered Chicken Cafreal in the early ’80s. At the time, he Cwas working in the kitchens of the Mandovi Hotel in Panjim, under the tutelage of a senior chef, Caridade Alfonso. D’Costa’s parents had a tiny taverna in a bylane of Saligao, Florentine’s signature The newly refurbished selling cashew and palm feni distilled Chicken Cafreal interiors of the restaurant by a relative. His mother added homemade snacks to go along Old-timers flock to Florentine with drinks, and the little taverna for its laidback charm immediately became a hit with the motorcycle-pilots of the region who operated a local taxi service on their bikes. They brought their customers in increasing numbers. In 1985, the then 24-year-old D’Costa left his job at the Mandovi Hotel and the taverna turned into Florentine. On its menu was Chicken Cafreal. Today, this richly aromatic, long-marinated fried chicken that’s smothered in a spicy, coriander-heavy sauce is ubiquitous on restaurant menus across the state, and widely known across the world as a signature Goan dish. But in fact, until the 1970s, Chicken Cafreal was unknown in Goa. Chicken Cafreal is a wonderful illustration of the Goan penchant to make instant classics out of new dishes. While storied traditions of the past are as prized as ever, the state’s culinary canon Florentine has come a long way since its beginnings as a shack remains broadmindedly open to reinterpretation. “I love the way we 4 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2012 JUNE 2012 BBC GoodFood 5 005-006-L2 off the eaten track-Anant-R1.indd 122 14/11/13 3:36 PM 005-006-L2 off the eaten track-Anant-R1.indd 123 14/11/13 3:36 PM eat out chefoff the special eaten track accept new things, and make them “That is how this restaurant grew our own,” enthuses Fatima Da Silva from a four-table little room,” says Gracias, the state’s best known food a visibly proud D’Costa, now 51. historian and author. She points “We never ever take shortcuts with out how rissois, the wildly popular the food, and have always remained stuffed pillows of dough derived consistently focused on our local from Portugal, are made in crescent customers. They have been loyal to us shapes only in Goa, a clear influence from the beginning, and they know that of the traditional Hindu neuri Florentine will remain loyal to them.” pastries that are made both savoury And so, while Florentine’s premises and sweet for special occasions. Cafreal had already earned a reputation itself have transformed radically from a Another newly invented item that has across the state. shack to a multi-storeyed building that become established in Goa’s culinary By then D’Costa had established includes a paved children’s playground repertoire is Panjim city’s favourite the routine of personally marinating at the rear, its laidback charm and snack: the ‘mushroom samosa’. each piece of chicken in a secret blend emphasis on fresh ingredients has The first man to serve Cafreal was of fresh spices, chillies, lime, vinegar, remained unaltered. As for the staff, Gines Viegas, long-time proprietor of and ground coriander paste. All those several familiar faces from the shack what was once Goa’s only standalone hints come to your nostrils when the days are still around. D’Costa and his restaurant, O’ Coqueiro. A devoted Cafreal appears on your table, but they wife personally visit the markets at food enthusiast who had travelled in no way prepare you for the first bite. daybreak to select the day’s offerings: all across the world, Viegas tried to make The D’Costas fry the hefty chunks of the seafood on offer is correspondingly a local version of the ‘African chicken’ chicken, with plenty of marinade, for fresh and well prepared. The drink of he’d encountered in Macau (where far longer than you might imagine, choice is still unlabelled feni straight it is buried under a thick layer of but always under cover. This lends the from the distillery. While D’Costa is less of a fixture at “The D’Costas fry the hefty chunks of the restaurant than he was in the early WHAT days, his philosophy has not budged chicken for far longer than you might WE from the days when he scorned the idea imagine, but always under cover. This LIKE of the simplest signboard on the nearby highway to the beach belt. “Word of lends the dish its blackened look, and Only a mouth,” he used to say. “If my food steeped, piquant taste, but also leaves smattering of is good, they will come.” (Directions places across pointing to Florentine are still sparse; the meat wonderfully moist and tender” the sunshine first-timers looking for the restaurant state can offer often lose their way, while others satay-style peanut sauce). His own dish its blackened look, and steeped, the authentic happen to chance upon it.) coriander-flecked version became piquant taste, but also leaves the meat laidback The place remains packed with popular with tourists (gangster Charles wonderfully moist and tender. atmosphere and locals all year round, even at the Sobhraj was a regular too, before being It is a wonderfully addictive dish. the quality of height of the monsoons. Despite the arrested in Viegas’ restaurant). Soon, I know many people who’ve gorged on food that made fact that visitors to the state now come other eateries began to put their own Florentine’s Chicken Cafreal for lunch, Goa the global in unceasing droves, and Florentine spin on the dish. then gone home (or back to their hotel) tourism hotspot is singularly associated with one of However, it is Florentine in north to nap, only to wake up craving it again, it is. Florentine, the most famous dishes in Goa, Goa’s Saligao that can claim the and return like homing pigeons for tucked away in D’Costa is uninterested in franchising greatest credit for popularising the dinner. Others pack it in coolers to take the bylanes of or expanding the restaurant any dish. Most Goans remember their back to Mumbai, or even Manchester. sleepy Saligao, further. That’s not Florentine’s style. first taste of Chicken Cafreal there. It “I immediately loved Florentine’s consistently In a state that has long since lost most became a widespread favourite in just Chicken Cafreal,” says Da Silva delivers on of its once-prized, laidback sussegado a few decades, and in popularising the Gracias. Her husband would drive to both counts: vibe, D’Costa’s restaurant remains dish, Caetano D’Costa and his family the restaurant several times a month its Chicken an oasis of contentedness and simple have changed the face of Goan food to pick up the dish for dinner. “Unlike Cafreal mopped Goan food. in no insignificant way. When I first some of the versions I have tried before, up with fresh CHOGM Road, Saligao, Goa. visited Florentine in 1992, it was still a it has a delicious, tangy gravy that goes poee justifies Tel: +91 832 227 8122. Tuesday proudly unlabelled shack (albeit with really well with the Goan poee [a robust, its legendary to Sunday, 11.30 am – 3 pm; a restaurant licence). But its Chicken pita-like local bread].” status. 6.30 pm – 10.30 pm. 6 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2012 005-006-L2 off the eaten track-Anant-R1.indd 124 14/11/13 3:36 PM.

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