Voices from Denali “It’S Bigger Than Wilderness”
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Alaska Range
Alaska Range Introduction The heavily glacierized Alaska Range consists of a number of adjacent and discrete mountain ranges that extend in an arc more than 750 km long (figs. 1, 381). From east to west, named ranges include the Nutzotin, Mentas- ta, Amphitheater, Clearwater, Tokosha, Kichatna, Teocalli, Tordrillo, Terra Cotta, and Revelation Mountains. This arcuate mountain massif spans the area from the White River, just east of the Canadian Border, to Merrill Pass on the western side of Cook Inlet southwest of Anchorage. Many of the indi- Figure 381.—Index map of vidual ranges support glaciers. The total glacier area of the Alaska Range is the Alaska Range showing 2 approximately 13,900 km (Post and Meier, 1980, p. 45). Its several thousand the glacierized areas. Index glaciers range in size from tiny unnamed cirque glaciers with areas of less map modified from Field than 1 km2 to very large valley glaciers with lengths up to 76 km (Denton (1975a). Figure 382.—Enlargement of NOAA Advanced Very High Resolution Radiometer (AVHRR) image mosaic of the Alaska Range in summer 1995. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration image mosaic from Mike Fleming, Alaska Science Center, U.S. Geological Survey, Anchorage, Alaska. The numbers 1–5 indicate the seg- ments of the Alaska Range discussed in the text. K406 SATELLITE IMAGE ATLAS OF GLACIERS OF THE WORLD and Field, 1975a, p. 575) and areas of greater than 500 km2. Alaska Range glaciers extend in elevation from above 6,000 m, near the summit of Mount McKinley, to slightly more than 100 m above sea level at Capps and Triumvi- rate Glaciers in the southwestern part of the range. -
Chapter Four
Chapter Four South Denali Visitor Center Complex: Interpretive Master Plan Site Resources Tangible Natural Site Features 1. Granite outcroppings and erratic Resources are at the core of an boulders (glacial striations) interpretive experience. Tangible resources, those things that can be seen 2. Panoramic views of surrounding or touched, are important for connecting landscape visitors physically to a unique site. • Peaks of the Alaska Range Intangible resources, such as concepts, (include Denali/Mt. McKinley, values, and events, facilitate emotional Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter, Mt. and meaningful experiences for visitors. Huntington, Mt. Dickey, Moose’s Effective interpretation occurs when Erratic boulders on Curry Ridge. September, 2007 Tooth, Broken Tooth, Tokosha tangible resources are connected with Mountains) intangible meanings. • Peters Hills • Talkeetna Mountains The visitor center site on Curry Ridge maximizes access to resources that serve • Braided Chulitna River and valley as tangible connections to the natural and • Ruth Glacier cultural history of the region. • Curry Ridge The stunning views from the visitor center site reveal a plethora of tangible Mt. McKinley/Denali features that can be interpreted. This Mt. Foraker Mt. Hunter Moose’s Tooth shot from Google Earth shows some of the major ones. Tokosha Ruth Glacier Mountains Chulitna River Parks Highway Page 22 3. Diversity of habitats and uniquely 5. Unfettered views of the open sky adapted vegetation • Aurora Borealis/Northern Lights • Lake 1787 (alpine lake) • Storms, clouds, and other weather • Alpine Tundra (specially adapted patterns plants, stunted trees) • Sun halos and sun dogs • High Brush (scrub/shrub) • Spruce Forests • Numerous beaver ponds and streams Tangible Cultural Site Features • Sedge meadows and muskegs 1. -
Breasts on the West Buttress Climbing the Great One for a Great Cause
Breasts on the West Buttress Climbing the Great One for a great cause Nancy Calhoun, Sheldon Kerr, Libby Bushell A Ritt Kellogg Memorial Fund Proposal Calhoun, Kerr, Bushell; BOTWB 24 Table of Contents Mission Statement and Goals 3 Libby’s Application, med. form, agreement 4-8 Libby’s Resume 9-10 Nancy’s Application, med. form, agreement 11-15 Nancy’s Resume 16-17 Sheldon’s Application, med. form, agreement 18-23 Sheldon’s Resume 24-25 Ritt Kellogg Fund Agreement 26 WFR Card copies 27 Travel Itinerary 28 Climbing Itinerary 29-34 Risk Management 35-36 Minimum Impact techniques 37 Gear List 38-40 First Aid Contents 41 Food List 42-43 Maps 44 Final Budget 45 Appendix 46-47 Calhoun, Kerr, Bushell; BOTWB 24 Breasts on the West Buttress: Mission Statement It may have started with the simple desire to climb North America’s tallest peak, but with a craving to save the world a more pressing concern on the minds of three Colorado College women (a Vermonter, an NC southern gal, and a life-long Alaskan), we realized that climbing Denali could and should be only a mere stepping stone to the much greater task at hand. Thus, we’ve teamed up with the American Breast Cancer Foundation, an organization that is doing their part to save our world, one breast at a time, in order to do our part, in hopes of becoming role models and encouraging the rest of the world to do their part too. So here’s our plan: We are going to climb Denali (Mount McKinley) via the West Buttress route in June of 2006. -
2016 Annual Mountaineering Summary
2016 Annual Mountaineering Summary Photo courlesy of Menno Boermans 2016 Statistical Year in Review Each season's !!!~~D.~~.iD.~.~- ~!~~ . !:~':!.!~ . ~!~!!~!!~~ · including total attempts and total summits for Denali and Foraker, are now compiled into one spreadsheet spanning from 1979 to 2016. For a more detailed look at 2016, you can find the day to-day statistics, weather, and conditions reports discussed in the !?.~.':1.~.1.i __ g!~P.~!~~~~ blog. Quick Facts-Denali • Climbers from the USA: 677 (60% of total) Top states represented were Alaska (122), Washington (103), Colorado (95), and California (64) • International climbers: 449 (40% of total) Foreign countries with the most climbers were the United Kingdom (52) Japan (39), France (28). In a three-way tie for fouth position were the Czech Republic, Korea, and Poland, each with 23 climbers. Nepal was close behind with 22. Of the less-represented countries, we welcomed just one climber each from Montenegro, Iceland, Mongolia, and Croatia. • Average trip length Overall average was 16.5 days, start to finish. • Average age 39 years old • Women climbers Comprised 12% of total (132 women). The summit rate for women was 59%. • Summits by month • May: 112 • June:514 • July: 44 • Busiest Summit Days • June 16: 83 summits • June 23: 71 summits • June 1: 66 summits • May 31: 35 summits 2016 Search and Rescue Summary Avalanche Hazard A winter climber departed Talkeetna on January 21, 2016 for a planned 65-day solo expedition on the West Ridge of Mount Hunter. On April 3 (Day 72 of the expedition), the uninjured soloist was evacuated from 8,600 feet via short-haul rescue basket after becoming stranded with inadequate food and fuel due to persistent avalanche conditions. -
Defining and Sizing-Up Mountains
Defining and Sizing-up Mountains By Steven Fry What are the ten highest mountains in the world? ridge-level, before it is considered an individual Is Mount Everest larger than Mount McKinley? Does mountain. Mount Rainier rise higher above its base than In 1981, following 12 years of academic, profes- Everest? Unbelievably, these questions have never sional and recreational mountain study, I decided to been answered with any certainty, for the simple rea- make a serious attempt to establish a workable defi- son that mountains have remained essentially nition for mountains. I studied thousands of moun- undefined. tains and hills before I arrived at the conclusion There are some who may say defining mountains presented in this article. My research mainly focused is irnposstbte. However, the word "impossible" on Washington's Cascade Range, but I also studied should be used with great caution, especially within other sections of the Cascade Range, the Rockies, the climbing community. Furthermore, classifica- Sierra Nevada, Appalachians, Himalayas, Andes, tion systems are ubiquitous for such things as trees, Alps, British Isles, Alaska Range and numerous animals, rocks and clouds-and although not other geographic localities. perfect - these systems do help people better de- Mountain Definitions scribe and eventually understand the world around A mountain can be defined based upon the follow- us. ing three geographic parameters: A. Local Relief; B. Various geographers and geologists have stated Elevation; and C. Prominence. These three that a mountain must have: 1. 1,000 or 2,000 feet parameters are utilized in the mountain definitions of local relief; 2. Relatively steep slopes; and 3. -
North America Summary, 1968
240 CLIMBS A~D REGIONAL ?\OTES North America Summary, 1968. Climbing activity in both Alaska and Canada subsided mar kedly from the peak in 1967 when both regions were celebrating their centen nials. The lessened activity seems also to have spread to other sections too for new routes and first ascents were considerably fewer. In Alaska probably the outstanding climb from the standpoint of difficulty was the fourth ascent of Mount Foraker, where a four-man party (Warren Bleser, Alex Birtulis, Hans Baer, Peter Williams) opened a new route up the central rib of the South face. Late in June this party flew in from Talkeetna to the Lacuna glacier. By 11 July they had established their Base Camp at the foot of the South face and started up the rib. This involved 10,000 ft of ice and rotten rock at an angle of 65°. In the next two weeks three camps were estab lished, the highest at 13,000 ft. Here, it was decided to make an all-out push for the summit. On 24 July two of the climbers started ahead to prepare a route. In twenty-eight hours of steady going they finally reached a suitable spot for a bivouac. The other two men who started long after them reached the same place in ten hours of steady going utilising the steps, fixed ropes and pitons left by the first party. After a night in the bivouac, the two groups then contin ued together and reached the summit, 17,300 ft, on 25 July. They were forced to bivouac another night on the return before reaching their high camp. -
Spring/ Summer 2018
CATALOG SPRING/ SUMMER 2018 S18_Cover_Alt.indd 2 8/30/17 11:13 AM WHEN THE WORLD SUDDENLY CHANGES “Give him to us! We will kill him!” About one hundred belligerent men had gathered in front of the tent, calling for me. Greg Vernovage, an American mountain guide, and Melissa (Arnot) guarded the tent and tried to keep the Sherpas at bay. A lone Sherpa, Pang Nuru, was standing next to them. He had nothing to do with us but was obviously perturbed by the situation and knew that this was just not right. I could hear a fierce discussion. The Sherpas ordered me to come out. I would be the first they would beat to death, and when they had finished with me they would go for the other two. I felt powerless and could not see a way out. How could we possibly turn the situation into our favor? What would happen to us? It was over. I couldn’t do anything. My hands were tied. I thought about how ridiculous the situation was. How many expeditions had I been on and then come back from in one piece? How many critical situations had I survived? And now I was crouching in a tent on Mount Everest, just about to be lynched by a mob of Sherpas. This was impossible and the whole situation so absurd that I had no hope. The Sherpas were incalculable, but I would probably not survive. I started to imagine how my life would end by stoning. —Excerpt from Ueli Steck: My Life in Climbing MOUNTAINEERS BOOKS is the publishing division of The Mountaineers, a nonprofit membership organization that has been a leader in outdoor education for more than 100 years. -
Denali National Park and Preserve 1993 Mountaineering Summary
DENALI NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE 1993 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARY The 1993 climbing season was essentially normal compared to the tragic season last year. Weather was better than normal and climbers generally exhibited more caution contributing to the safer season. There was one fatality on Mt. McKinley and 13 other rescue missions within the mountains of the Park. This compares to the 13 fatalities last year (11 on Mt. McKinley and 2 on Mt. Foraker). This season's rescue costs totaled $70,800 compared to $206,000 for 1992. Consideration for new regulations including pre-registration are ongoing. At the present time, all climbers are required to register for Mt. McKinley and Mt. Foraker prior to their expedition. Four 24-day mountaineering patrols were rotated through the 14,200' Ranger Station from May 1st through the first week in July. The U.S. Army provided its CH-47 Chinook helicopters to establish and extract our mountain facilities. Alaska Air National Guard Rescue personnel assisted our first patrol. They also provided supplies and equipment for the 14,200' camp infrastructure. The open concession left last year by Genet Expeditions has been filled by Alpine Ascents International. They will be conducting commercial operations on Mt. McKinley beginning in 1994. STATISTICS: Number of Climbers on Mt. McKinley: A record number of 1108 climbers attempted Mt. McKinley with 670 (60%) reaching the summit this season. With a superb weather season on the mountain, surprisingly only 17% attempted routes other than the West Buttress. The West Rib is the second busiest route with 92 climbers compared to 923 on the West Buttress. -
DENALI NATIONAL PARK and PRESERVE 1990 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARY Heavy Winter Snows, Volcanic Ash Deposits, Near Record Numbers Of
DENALI NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE 1990 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARY Heavy winter snows, volcanic ash deposits, near record numbers of climbers, few accidents and generally good weather summarizes the 1990 mountaineering season in the Alaska Range. Record snows fell at the lower elevations during the winter of 1989-90. There was one winter attempt made by a Japanese team of four on the West Buttress. They encountered extended periods of poor weather and spent nearly 20 days between the 11,000’ and 14,300’ camps. The 14,300’ basin was their highest camp. No other winter attempts were made on any other major peak within Denali National Park and Preserve. Throughout most of the winter, Mount Redoubt volcano, located approximately 150 miles south of the Alaska Range, repeatedly erupted, lightly dusting the Alaska Range with multiple layers of volcanic ash. A similar scenario occurred in 1986 when Mount Augustine erupted. The dark ash layers, once exposed to radiant heat from the sun, caused greatly accelerated melting of the snow pack as well as uneven melting of the snow surface. This resulted in an early closure of aircraft landing strips on the glaciers. Concern over a repeat of the 1986 early closures was well publicized and a number of groups planning late expeditions to the Alaska Range either moved their trips ahead or cancelled altogether. Late June snows extended the season longer than was expected, nevertheless, flights into the southeast fork stopped after the first several days of July. In an effort to cope with the number of people still on the mountain, landings to pick up parties were authorized at the 9,500’ level on the Kahiltna Glacier. -
WINTEK VIEW of MOUNT Mckinley from the NORTHWEST. UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT of the INTERIOR Harold L
GEOLOGICAL SURVEY BULLETIN 907 FRONTISPIECE WINTEK VIEW OF MOUNT McKINLEY FROM THE NORTHWEST. UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR Harold L. Ickes, Secretary GEOLOGICAL SURVEY W. C. Mendenhall, Director Bulletin 907 GEOLOGY OF THE ALASKA RAILROAD REGION BY STEPHEN R. CAPPS UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE WASHINGTON : 1940 For sale by the Superintendent of Documents. Washington, D. C. ..... Price $1.25 (paper) ft 3 -vu> CONTENTS Page Abstract. _._._.-._.._.___._______-_---.--_--__------_--..-.-.-__._ 1 Introduction.._.._..._..__-__-__-------l---_._-...--.-.---_-__.-_. 1 History., of, exploration. _..__._.._._-----..--_.___-____.-_-____.-__.. 4 Present report__....--..-__._-.--------.----...----_----_----.-._ 21 Geography.. .-...._-.___-_--.-------_------_-__--.-_-----___.._ 23- Geographic provinces._______----_--_----_-_._---.---_.--...._. 23' Chugach-Kenai Mountains._----_---_.__--_--_---.---...-.. 24 Talkeetna Mountains._-_-------_---__--._.____._-..._-._.. 25 Cook Inlet-Susitna lowland.-----_----__--_---.-_---_-,-_-__ 26 Copper-Susitna lowland._------------..___-..._.--_.-.-.-._ 27 Alaska Range.______.___------__----_-_-__--_-_-__________ 27 Tanana-Kuskokwim lowland.._-..__.__._.__._._____.__.____ 29 Yukon-Tanana'upland. __--_------------__--------------.-- 30 Climate. _-_-__-------_---_-_-----------_-----------._-_-_-_--_ 31 Vegetation... _._._.__._-:___-.._.---.___.--._----__-_-__--._-__ 33 Animal life.___-_---_-_--_----_-----------_-------__.-__.---._ 35 Population..................----.-.----I.-.-..--.-.-......... -
1987 Mountaineering Summary
DENALI NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE 1987 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARY For the second year in a row a new record was set for the number of mountaineers attempting to climb Mount McKinley. Despite the increase in attempts, extended periods of poor weather throughout the Alaska Range resulted in the lowest success rate since 1971. Previous winter’s snow falls were about average for the Alaska Range. However, extended periods of clear weather during the late winter and early spring created extensive avalanche conditions throughout the Range. At least five and possibly six persons died in avalanche related accidents this season. An Alaskan team, Art Mannix and Chris Leibundgut, attempted a winter ascent of the South Buttress of Mount McKinley from the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier. They reached 15,000’ before frostbite caused their retreat. The only other winter mountaineering activity in the park was a first winter ascent of Mount Silverthrone by a party of three Alaskans. Brian and Diane Okonek and Rick Ernst reached the summit via the Brooks Glacier and the Silverthrone Col. The High Latitude Research Project was not funded this season, but a short research project was conducted by several medical personnel. Dr. Peter Hackett coordinated the project in which they investigated a possible link between retinal hemorrhaging and cerebral edema of climbers at altitude. Following completion of the project, the Mountaineering Rangers staffed the camp for the remainder of the season. Once again, the transportation of the camp to and from the mountain was provided by the U.S. Army, 242nd Aviation Company, Ft Wainwright, Alaska. -
Projekt Wspinaczkowo - Naukowy ”Mount Hayes 2009”
Projekt wspinaczkowo - naukowy ”Mount Hayes 2009” Żołądek Marek i Apollo Michał na Denali (West Rib – Cut Off) Apollo Michał Żołądek Marek Cel wyjazdu: Mount Hayes (4215 m n.p.m.) najwyzszy szczyt Eastern Alaska Range, zdobyty po raz pierwszy w 1941 roku przez zespol Bradforda Washburna. Gora ta jest rzadko odwiedzana przez wspinaczy ze wzgledu na skaplikowana logistyke wyprawy. Naszym celem jest powtorzenie jednej z drog w ramach aklimatyzacji a nastepnie proba wytyczenia nowej drogi. W masywie tym nie dzialala do tej pory zadna ekipa polskich wspinaczy. Nie ograniczamy się tylko do wspinaczki, na naszych wyjazdach prowadzimy badania i zbieramy dane z zakresu zmian klimatycznych: „Lodowce górskie świata” pod kierownictwem prof. zw. dr hab. Jana Lacha (IG AP Kraków). Specyfikacja warunkow wspinaczkowych na Alasce jest nam dobrze znana po ponad miesiecznym pobycie w masywie Denali w 2007 roku i powtorzeniu drog West Butters oraz West Rib (Cut Off). Cel zapasowy: Mount Hunter lub Mount Foraker Trermin wyjazdu: Kwiecien – Maj 2009, ok. 3-4 tygodnie dzialalnosci gorskiej Sklad wyjazdu Marek Zoladek KW Warszawa Michal Apollo KW Warszawa Kosztorys: Przelot Krakow – Anchorage – Krakow 3500 PLN Transfer Anchorage – Talkeetna – Anchorage 190 USD Przelot Talkeetna – BC Mt Hayes – Talkeetna (Talkeetna Air Taxi) 1100 USD Zywnosc 500 PLN Ubezpieczenie 280 PLN Noclegi 200 USD Suma na osobe: 4280 PLN oraz 1490 USD = ok. 8450 PLN Wklad wlasny: 2950 PLN Sponsorzy: 2000 PLN PZA: 3500 PLN Wczesniejsze dofinansowania z PZA Marek Zoladek: Zima 2006 Wspinanie lodowe w Dolinie Gastein, Lato 2006 Dolina Miyar w Himalajac O nas Michał Apollo (ur. 1981) Absolwent geografii Akademii Pedagogicznej w Krakowie, członek Koła Naukowego Geografów, Klubu Wysokogórskiego Warszawa oraz Polskiego Towarzystwa Geograficznego.