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2000 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARY Denali National Park and Preserve

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2000 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARY Denali National Park and Preserve 2000 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARY Denali National Park and Preserve News from Mt. McKinley The 2000 climbing season at Denali There were three winter attempts on National Park & Preserve was one of the Denali, each unique because of the Inside this issue: most tragic and one of the most memora- routes attempted: the American Direct, ble seasons in recent history. The terrible the West Rib, and the Muldrow Glacier. th plane crash that happened June 19 The winter on Denali turned back all of Introduction 1 stunned the Denali National Park staff, the the attempts, but a pair of Canadian town of Talkeetna, the state of Alaska and climbers on the West Rib reached the Cleaning Up Mt. 2 the entire National Park Service. The 19,500-foot level before descending be- crash killed mountaineering ranger Cale cause of the severe cold. 2000 Staff & Volun- 4 Shaffer, volunteer patrol members Brian The 322 expeditions that attempted teers Reagan and Adam Kolff, and pilot Don Denali this year met with milder weather Bowers. This catastrophic accident hap- conditions overall than last season allow- Achievement Awards 5 pened during the height of the season re- ing more opportunities to attempt the quiring the South District staff to continue summit from high camp. Of the 1,209 Denali Pro 6 working during this heartbreaking time. climbers, the weather permitted 52 per- It was the last season for Annie Du- cent of the climbers to reach the summit Notable Ascents and 7 Route Information quette, one of the most legendary persons as compared to 43 percent last year. to work on the mountain, who after 10 International climbers comprised 40% Rescue Summary 8 years finally decided to retire. As Ka- or 470 of the total number of climbers on hiltna basecamp manager, Duquette was Mt. McKinley this year. Climbers came Denali’s ambassador to pilots, climbers, from 41 different countries and the top 5 Rescue Summary & 9 Medical Statistics and visitors. countries represented were: the United For the second year in a row there States (739), Canada (62), United King- The Lost Patrol 10 were no fatalities on Denali, although well dom (55), France (38) and Spain (33). known climber, Seth Shaw, was killed on This year, the average age of moun- the Ruth Glacier when an ice serac col- taineers on Denali was 34. Women Kichatnas photo by 12 lapsed on him. climbers made up 10 percent of the total R. Robinson It was the first year that the National number of climbers, with 43 percent Park Service initiated a comprehensive reaching the summit. Guided climbers trash and human waste management pro- comprised almost 18 percent of total • The Annual gram on Denali. Also, the mountaineering climbers. Mountaineering orientation program was revised with a As in most years past, climbs made in Summary is cre- greater emphasis on sanitation and re- the milder month of June were more suc- ated by the Tal- source management It was the first year cessful in reaching the summit than those keetna Ranger of modifying the NPS mountain patrol in May. Of those parties that both Staff to inform schedules to have two rangers at the started and finished their climbs in mountaineers 14,200-foot camp. This enabled the rang- June, 60% reached the top; the com- about the activi- ers to have increased presence and to bet- parative statistic for May was 37%. ties on Mt. ter monitor the mountain at both the In 2001, our goal will be to instill a McKinley during 17,200-foot high camp and the 14,200- stronger climber commitment to the climbing sea- foot camp. “Leave No Trace” ethics. son. Page 2 2000 2000 2000Motaineering Mountaineering Motaineering Summary Summary Summary 2000 Mountaineering Summary Cleaning Up Mt. McKinley There is evidence of abandoned equipment and dis- posal of trash on the mountain from the earliest expe- ditions to Mt. McKinley. Even with all of these concerted efforts, a signifi- cant amount of garbage was still being left on the “When the mercurial barometer had been mountain and improper disposal of feces at the camps read the tent was thrown down and aban- continued. In 1997, one mountaineering patrol doned. The tent-pole was used for a moment cleaned up moreEven that with 700 all pounds of these of concerted garbage fromefforts the a as a flagstaff… Then it was put to its perma- 14,200-foot campsignificant alone. amount Then, in of 1998, garbage a college was stillstu- nent use… planted on one of the little snow dent institutedbeing a simple left onstudy the onmountain one-gallon and fuelimproper cans. turrets of the summit.” This study founddisposal that of30% feces of theat the expeditions camps continued. left one or more fuel Incans 1997, on theone mountain. ranger patrol From cleaned this infor- up --- From Hudson Stuck’s mation, the NPSover initiated700 pounds a mandatory of garbage return from system the 1913 ascent for fuel cans 14,200’and found camp a 90%alone. compliance In 1998, arate college with The Ascent of Denali the climbers surveyedstudent instituted in 1999. a simple study on one- Because ofgallon the success fuel cans. in the This fuel study can monitoringfound that From this historic context it should come as no sur- program, the30% NPS of began the expeditions a pilot study surveyed to determine left one prise that trash continues to be a problem on Mt. the amount of trash generated per person per user day McKinley. It is an unfortunate reality that for much of that should be returned by a climbing party. A secon- the history of mountaineering it was considered an ac- dary objective was to determine if there was a corre- cepted and necessary part of expeditionary climbing to lation between the weight of food and packaging effi- leave behind gear and trash in the mountains. In the ciency of each expedition to the amount of trash ulti- early 70s nearly 300 climbers a year were spending mately produced. A third objective was to track the three weeks on the mountain. Most of these people return rate of fuel containers. The final objective was left their garbage behind on the mountain and dug pit to study the practicality of an expedition removing toilets for their feces on the glacier. In the camps all of its human waste from the mountain. above 16,000-feet, human waste was deposited among small rock outcrops. Attempts were made by the Na- tional Park Service (NPS) and private organizations to cleanup some of this debris and to educate climbers about proper human waste disposal. In 1977, the Park Service initiated a ‘climb clean’ policy by requiring climbers to pack out all gear, re- fuse and fixed line. A pit toilet was also established at the 7,200-foot basecamp. Seven hundred climbers a year attempted ascents on Mt. McKinley by 1980, and the Park Service had taken a passive approach to man- aging sanitation concerns primarily through education and orientation before each expedition’s departure. In 1982, a pit toilet was placed at the 14,200-foot camp. Two years later, all climbers were required to deposit their feces into crevasses. Twenty-one day ranger pa- trols became common practice, which helped with en- forcement. By 1989 a toilet was placed at 17,200-feet using a removable box that would be dumped in a cre- vasse. In 1995, the Park Service’s booklet ‘Mountaineering’ was made available in eight lan- NPS staff members weighing trash at Kahiltna Basecamp guages. This booklet provided educational informa- (NPS Photo) tion to the international climbing community on clean climbing ethics. 2000 2000 Mountaineering Mountaineering Summary Summary Page 3 CLEANING UP MT. MCKINLEY Continued from page 2 Projects implemented this season To accomplish the trash monitoring objectives, tic boxes devised for river travel and his patrol re- blue plastic bags were issued for garbage and clear moved all of their human waste from the mountain. bags for human waste. All blue bags were returned Rangers observed that one of the major benefits of and weighed at basecamp while the clear bags were these studies was that trash return rates improved thrown into crevasses with the group’s human waste. simply because of the increased attention paid to re- Clear bags were chosen for human waste disposal so source management by the National Park Service. that rangers and other climbers could see that garbage Also, rangers reported a significant decrease in gar- was not illegally tossed into crevasses. The number bage found in the popular camps and Denali appeared of the expedition was written on both the blue and to be much cleaner than in years past. clear bags incorporating the same numerical system This project provided valuable baseline informa- used on the fuel cans in the 1999 study. This manda- tion upon which to build an education and enforce- tory weighing and numbering system made climbers ment program in future seasons. It established a more accountable for their garbage and human waste. framework that should provide accurate results in the Data on food weight was collected prior to an expedi- coming years, but most importantly, it has also sent a tions departure and all of their trash was weighed clear message that the NPS is working hard to fulfill upon return. its mission to protect park resources by appropriately On the human waste study, Park Ranger Roger managing current uses. Robinson’s patrol used a toilet system of sturdy plas- Trash in transit (NPS Photo) Page 4 2000 Motaineering Summary 2000 Mountaineering Summary South District Staff and Volunteers – 2000 Special thanks to Acting South District Ranger Daryl Miller Punky Moore Acting Lead Mountaineering Ranger Roger Robinson for all her hard Administrative Technician Miriam Valentine work organizing Mountaineering Rangers Kevin Moore the information Joe Reichert and completing Meg Perdue the summary Gordy Kito before her Scott Metcalfe departure Cale Shaffer to a new job with Helicopter Manager Dave Kreutzer the US Forest Helicopter Pilots Jim Hood Service in Carl Cotton Colorado.
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