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Bright Future THE HOT ISSUE AN ISSUE OF WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY BRIGHT FUTURE HOW A MULTICULTURAL MARKETING APPROACH IS ENERGIZING U.S. BEAUTY BB1409-PG0X-Cover.a;14.indd 1 8/27/14 11:14 AM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT ©2014 Maybelline LLC. ©2014 Maybelline LLC. 6 14 8 nless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ve doubtless heard of the Ice Bucket Challenge Unlocking to support ALS research. The Challenge the key to a involves people getting doused with a bucket In This Issue million-dollar of ice water on video, posting the video to door. 8 Well Oiled 20 Come As You Are Usocial media, then daring others to do the same. You Sales of oils The oil juggernaut shows As the U.S. undergoes a can either accept the challenge or make a donation to rose 40 percent no signs of slowing, with a demographic revolution, in the first half an ALS charity or do both. Launched around August of 2014. slew of launches for fall. beauty marketers are 6, the campaign went viral and by August 22—16 days transforming their approach later—$55.3 million had been raised. Can you think 10 Like-Minded Spirits to retail—on a door-by-door Fast friends Drew basis—accordingly. of a more timely example that illustrates the power of Barrymore and Gucci digital? More and more, beauty brands are tapping into Westman gab about all 26 The Ever-Expanding that power and are radically rethinking their approach things beauty. Social Orbit How the to digital and traditional marketing. Discover how in As social media becomes influence the “The Ever-Expanding Social Orbit” on page 26. 12 Entrepreneur of the an entrenched part of of digital is Month: Sabrina Tan the marketing mix, brands giving rise GE CHINSEE Beauty marketers are also tuned into another R A former tech exec–turned are radically rethinking their to a new era radical change taking place—that of the demographic of emotion- skin-care pro is bringing approach to digital. based transformation across the U.S. Again—you’ve probably her line stateside. marketing. seen the numbers: By 2050, 54 percent of the U.S. 30 California Dreaming Inside Artdeco’s GEO BY IL PHOTO population will be composed of non-Caucasian ethnic first-ever 14 The Beauty of Paris Hot on the acquisition trail? O boutique, Jennifer Weil visits the Here, 10 innovative brands groups, with the Asian-American population expected plus a slew newest spas, shops and from the Golden State that VITA; OLCE to increase by 142 percent and the Hispanic by 167 of launches D inspired by the salons in the capital of chic. analysts say may be next. percent. Already, as WWD’s executive editor of beauty City of Light. OUCHES/ Pete Born reports, the figures have had a significant 17 Page Turners 34 Beauty Nation T DES DES impact on beauty, as retailers and brands tailor their Books from some of From body jewelry to brightly The latest hair R beauty’s biggest names are colored locks, bold beauty ANIE and makeup P approach on a door-by-door basis to better reflect the . due to hit shelves this fall. was the name of the game trends as O BY BY changing face of America. For a full report, turn to at BeautyCon Los Angeles. worn by R IO beauty R “Come As You Are” on page 20. 18 Shopper Stalker bloggers and One company that understood early on the What makeup artists are the girls who evolution of both digital and demographics was NYX buying—and why—at two love them. ODOLPHE INTE pro stores in Manhattan. R Cosmetics, the Los Angeles-based makeup brand that Rounding L’Oréal acquired in June for a reported $500 million. up the latest makeup artist OWNING; According to financial sources, 17 companies were vying must-haves. ON THE COVER: Photograph by Ruven BR for NYX at one point, which got us to wondering who Afanador. Styling by Isabel Dupré. Hair by Italo Gregorio at Bryan Bantry Agency. Makeup by would be next. Read our assessment of California’s Joanne Gair for Walter Schupfer Management top-10 indie brands on page 30, and get ready for using Nars Cosmetics. Manicures by Elissa what one analyst says is going to be a “record-breaking Ferri at See Management. Models, from left: Bianca at Supreme Management; Jing Ma and year.” The gold rush, it seems, is on. —JENNY B. FINE Rachelle at Muse; Marina at The Society. ROSIE BY PHOTO ELIZABETH WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 208, NO. 50. S UNDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive O¢cer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating O¢cer & Chief Financial O¢cer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative O¢cer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing o¢ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post O¢ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883.For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/ subscriptions. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that o¬er products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these o¬ers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. 4 WWD BEAUTY INC BB1409-PG0X-TOC.a;11.indd 4 8/26/14 3:48 PM 08262014155023 Approved with warnings © 2014 Target Brands, Inc. Target and the Bullseye are registered trademarks of Target Brands, Inc. 094312 Inc. Brands, Target of trademarks registered are Bullseye the and Target Inc. Brands, Target 2014 © Celebrating 15 years of brilliance. Target.com/SoniaKashuk EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, WWD PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY JENNY B. FINE EDITOR JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR JAYME CYK MASS MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR ANNA DYSINGER EDITORIAL ASSISTANT KATIE KRETSCHMER CONSULTING COPY EDITOR NANCY BUTKUS CREATIVE DIRECTOR ART BARBARA SULLIVAN CONSULTING ART DIRECTOR CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (London), MILES SOCHA (Paris), CYNTHIA MARTENS (Milan), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (Los Angeles), MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (Berlin), AMANDA KAISER (Tok yo) PHOTO Alexandra CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO DIRECTOR Elizabeth on LEXIE MORELAND ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR the runway at JENNA GREENE ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR CARTER LOVE Versace... BOOKINGS EDITOR VERSACE, VIKTOR & ROLF, AND CHANEL PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; CR FASHION BOOK BY ROSIE BROWNING ROSIE BOOK BY GIANNONI; CR FASHION GIOVANNI BY AND CHANEL PHOTOS & ROLF, VIKTOR VERSACE, EILEEN TSUJI PHOTO COORDINATOR ROBERT COHEN PHOTO FACILITATOR JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOGRAPHERS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS RUVEN AFANADOR, KENJI AOKI, DAN BORRIS, NIGEL DICKSON, HENRY LEUTWYLER, MARK HANAUER, MICHAEL NAGLE, JEFF RIEDEL, PHILIPPE SALOMON, DAVID LEWIS TAYLOR, YASU+JUNKO BEAUTY INC ADVERTISING PAUL JOWDY VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER PAMELA FIRESTONE ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ELLIE GHADIMI ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, BEAUTY ...AT VIKTOR & ROLF... JILL BIREN WEST COAST DIRECTOR GUGLIELMO BAVA INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR OLGA KOUZNETSOVA ACCOUNT MANAGER, ITALY BRITTANY MUTTERER BEAUTY SALES ASSISTANT MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES EMILY CORTEZ ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, MARKETING KRISTEN M.
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