Page 1 Wednesday

FINANCIAL: s NEWS: Escada

Key dates edges closer s RETAIL: loom to insolvency Evidence for CIT, filing, page 2. mounts of s page 14. a dismal back-to-school NEWS: Graff hit by season ahead, $65M robbery in s page 2. London, page 2.

Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • August 12, 2009 • $3.00

WwDWednesdaySportswear Fete Accompli It’s been four decades since , but that doesn’t mean its , free-love vibe has resonated any less with subsequent generations. Here, designer Prabal Gurung’s take on that seminal moment. “The dress [in my sketch] coming undone exudes the spirit of freedom, which, in the end, is what Woodstock truly embodies,” said Gurung. For more young designer takes on the Woodstock spirit, see pages 4 and 5. Losing a Key Anchor: Ellen Tracy Eyes Shift From Bridge to Better By Lisa Lockwood NEW YORK — The bridge category just can’t get a break. After seeing heavy markdowns and few profits in recent years, the market now is about to lose one of its premier names and major anchors: Ellen Tracy. Under a new operating license with RVC Enterprises, Ellen Tracy plans to morph into a better sportswear player, taking its prices down considerably and competing with firms such as Michael Michael Kors, Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Jones New York, Calvin Klein white label, Liz Claiborne and AK Anne Klein. Sources indicated that Ellen Tracy is talking with several major retail groups, namely Macy’s, Dillard’s and Lord & Taylor, about an exclusive sportswear arrangement. See Ellen, Page 12 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2009 WWD.COM Evidence of Slow B-t-s Mounts By Arnold J. Karr of the very basic commodity items stores are sell- ing best — things like basic white polo shirts,” WwDwednesdSportswearay The NPD Group Tuesday added to the Cohen said. “An honest retailer will tell us that growing body of evidence that this year’s back- they might have cost themselves some sales, but FASHION to-school season will be late and lean. most don’t know or won’t admit that they could The Port Washington, N.Y.-based market re- have sold 24 of an item if they’d had them.” 4 Young designers born after the Woodstock search firm reported 44 percent of those surveyed Among the commodity basics that have sold generation give their takes on the era’s groovy said they would spend less this b-t-s season than best, Cohen noted, were denim and men’s under- fringe, flowers, beads and bell-bottoms. they did a year ago, while 32 percent expect to wear, much of it on a replacement basis. GENERAL spend the same and 23 percent foresee greater ex- The worst of the financial crisis hadn’t yet penditures. Last year, 35 percent expected to spend hit a year ago, so stores are facing more difficult 1 After seeing heavy markdowns and few profits less, 34 percent the same and 31 percent more. comparisons than they will for holiday. Cohen in recent years, the bridge market is about to lose Although still the second-most critical cat- said some parents are using the b-t-s season as a one of its top names: Ellen Tracy. egory behind school supplies, apparel is a lower means of previewing fall merchandise. s 8 MARKETING: Woodstock’s impact on popular priority this year than last, with 52 percent of The NPD report adds to the evidence, advanced culture is established, so the product array for its respondents expecting to purchase it versus 60 by the poor same-store sales results for July, that 40th anniversary brings some irony. percent last year. Footwear was down to 39 per- the b-t-s season will be an exceedingly tough one cent from 48 percent, but held the number-three for stores and the vendors that supply them. The FTC charged four firms with selling products spot in order of priority. Apparel accessories fell Last month, the National Retail Federation 10 deceptively labeled as bamboo that were really to 16 percent from 20 percent, and beauty prod- said the average family with children will spend rayon and making false environmental claims. ucts declined to 13 percent from 17 percent. $548.72 on b-t-s purchases, down 7.7 percent 11 Just a few weeks shy of its fifth anniversary, “Back-to-school will be a big indicator of from $594.24 in 2008. On Monday, three Citi re- LittleMissMatched, the New York-based legwear the consumer’s psyche with regard to overall tail analysts projected a 3 to 4 percent decline in label, is opening a Fifth Avenue store. spending this year compared to last year,” said same-store sales for August and September ver- Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD. sus a 0.9 percent rise last year and a 4.3 percent 14 CIT Group Inc. has two key deadlines looming on “Consumers are clearly putting need over de- average increase over the last decade. the horizon — this Friday for a debt tender offer sire. They will be more highly influenced by The International Council of Shopping and Oct. 1 for a restructuring plan. value than by fashion or trendy products.” Centers on Tuesday forecast a same-store sales Despite a drop in second-quarter profits and Value remained the top reason to purchase decline of 3.5 to 4 percent for August, “a slight 14 sales, Warnaco Group Inc. is sticking with its b-t-s merchandise, with 79 percent of respon- improvement from the underlying trend be- dents indicating its importance versus 80 per- tween December 2008 and July 2009,” according plans for retail expansion. cent a year ago. “Required by school” dropped to Michael Niemira, ICSC chief economist. to 45 percent from 51 percent, and replacement Perhaps sensing the tough times ahead, retail Classified Advertisements...... 15 dropped to 28 percent from 30 percent. stocks fell for a second straight day Tuesday as To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is Only 6 percent of NPD’s 66,000 online respon- the S&P Retail Index gave back 1.59 points, or [email protected], using the individual’s name. dents had purchased b-t-s merchandise when 0.4 percent, to end the day at 363.71, perform- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 the survey was conducted last month, while 17 ing slightly better than the Dow Jones Industrial FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. percent hadn’t yet begun and 77 percent said Average, S&P 500 and Nasdaq Composite, all VOLUME 198, NO. 31. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one they won’t shop specifically for b-t-s. A year ago, down more than 1 percent. The S&P 500 slipped additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June and the respective figures were 8, 13 and 79 percent. back under the 1,000 benchmark, giving up 12.75 August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Cohen noted that, while the season is the sec- points to close at 994.35. Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice ond most important for retailers behind holiday, While most retailers saw their shares decline, President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and many stores, focused on making do with less stock, Target Corp. picked up 22 cents, or 0.5 percent, to at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services may wind up being short on inventory when b-t-s close at $42.20 after it was revealed activist inves- Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box shopping winds up extending into mid- and even tor William Ackman has cut his ownership stake 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK late September. “When I’m in the South, where in the company to 4.4 percent from 7.8 percent. ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or schools start earlier, there’s a noticeable absence — With contributions from Matthew Lynch visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Escada Close to Insolvency Filing Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not By Melissa Drier offer. The management supervisory boards are want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or meeting Wednesday to discuss further steps, but call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, BERLIN — Having failed to reach the targeted 80 Escada said the management board planned to pres- PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, percent acceptance level for its bond exchange ent its proposals for the company’s reorganization to PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS offer, Escada AG has reiterated plans to file for the court-appointed insolvency administrator. SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER insolvency later this week. German law does not The market seemed to have expected the latest MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. have the equivalent of Chapter 11, and planned in- news, with Escada’s shares falling 30.7 percent in solvency is the closest procedure to bankruptcy. trading Tuesday to close at 1.65 euros, or $2.33. Late Tuesday night, the German fashion house Escada has been struggling for years following DAILY The factories need work said the bond exchange offer, which expired at 3 a series of management miscues and its troubles p.m. German time on Tuesday, achieved only a 46 worsened as the brand, like most German luxury “ percent acceptance rate. As a result, the planned players, has been hit hard by the recession. Still, QUote and the mills need work. capital increase of 29.05 million euros, or $41.1 the latest turn marks a far fall for one of Germany’s million at current exchange, has fallen through, leading luxury houses and a brand which, at its peak Instead of being fashion designers, we’ve as has the extension of the bank credit line of 13 in the Eighties, was considered one of the premier million euros, or $18.4 million. fashion labels in the world. Escada was founded in become fashion negotiators. In a new ad hoc announcement late Tuesday, 1976 as a contract knitwear company by Wolfgang ” Escada repeated its intention to file for insolvency and Margaretha Ley, and three years later, the duo — Elie Tahari on the pressure this week given the failure of the bond exchange established the Escada brand. to lower prices. Page one.

Tina Turner and Ann- TODAY ON Margret at the opening Graff Store Hit in $65M Robbery party for Tommy in 1975. By Nina Jones Dover Street, firing another shot and making off in a silver Mercedes. Some of the suspects then got into LONDON — Armed robbers seized jewelry val- a third vehicle in Mayfair. “These men are extreme- ued at $65 million when they raided Graff ’s ly dangerous and fired at least two shots in busy WWD New Bond Street boutique Thursday afternoon, London streets as they made their getaway,” said de- London’s Metropolitan Police said Tuesday. tective chief inspector Pam Mace of London’s Flying .com Police described the heist as “a well planned Squad, which investigates armed crime. robbery,” with 43 items of jewelry including Police said that among the pieces of jewelry rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches taken taken were a platinum and white marquise dia- from the store. A police spokesman said Tuesday mond ring with pear shaped diamond shoulders, • Back in Time: the raid is “one of the biggest” jewel robberies a Chronograff men’s watch and a multicolored WWD looks back at the in British history. and white pear shape, round and cushion cut 1975 “Tommy” Premiere The two male robbers, of whom police have yellow diamond flower necklace. released CCTV footage, walked into the bou- Last week wasn’t the first time Graff has been • Continued Woodstock tique at 4:40 p.m. Thursday and threatened staff targeted by armed gangs. In 2003, 23 million pounds, 40th anniversary coverage with handguns. They then brought a female staff or $38 million, worth of jewelry was stolen from the • Behind-the-Scenes member outside the jeweler and fired a shot on same Graff boutique. Two men, one from Serbia Video from WWD’s the street, but no one was injured. and another from Montenegro, were convicted and The robbers subsequently fled New Bond Street jailed for the robbery in 2004, but only $4.9 million Woodstock shoot in a blue BMW, before abandoning the car on nearby worth of the stolen jewelry was recovered. • Global breaking news A COMMUNITY OF STYLE AND SUBSTANCE

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I<>@JK@:FEC@E<%:FD FI8K/..%,,+%+/*+ 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2009

Peter Som

Designers have flirted with Woodstock style for decades, going back to Yves Saint Laurent and his peasant tops. But what about young designers who are more likely to wax nostalgic about “Desperately Seeking Susan” and Nineties grunge? WWD asked them for their takes on the era’s fringe, flowers, beads and bell-bottoms. The results ranged from Alexander Wang’s bare-all babe to Jeremy Laing’s cheeky cartoon pun. As for Bensoni’s hippie chick, designer Sonia Yoon noted there’s more of her to come: “It’s a lil’ hint of our inspiration for spring,” she said. — Venessa Lau

Richard Charlotte

Chai t Ronson

Gilded Age William Rast

Victor

Glemaud t WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2009 5 WWD.COM

s Jeremy Laing

Doo.Ri Koi

s Cushnie et Ochs

s Alexander Wang

s Bensoni

Trovata

s Altuzarra

Bibhu Mohapatra 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2009

If you stage it, they will come. It was but one lesson learned from Woodstock. Sure, the masses came for the music, but they stayed for what quickly became a legendary event. It’s a lot for the music fests that have followed to live up to. Yet in the 40 years since Woodstock, festivals championing every genre of music and targeting every social niche have popped up, from the Erie Canal Soda Pop Festival (1972) to Live Aid (1985) to Ozzy Osbourne’s ongoing OzzFest and Sarah McLachlan’s female-friendly Lilith Fair (1997 to 1999). The list goes on. Here, a glimpse into some of Mass Appeal today’s most popular festivals. — Nick Axelrod OF CONTEMPORARY PERFORMING ARTS Perry Farrell Glastonbury founder Michael Eavis hadn’t heard of Woodstock when he decided and wife Etty to mount a music fair at his family’s farm in 1970. Instead, he was inspired by the Lau Farrell at nearby and the 1970 Bath Festival of Blues. “It had all the Lollapalooza, best bands in the world — , Frank Zappa, Jefferson Airplane,” says 2007. Eavis. “It had a massive impact on me. I was just a Methodist, going to chapel in the village.” Eavis produced his fi rst event several months later, rigging a stage from a tarp-covered farm trailer and charging a mere pound for admission. “It was a farmer’s attempt,” he says. “It was all tied up with string and stuff. It wasn’t a proper job at all.” What his fi rst go lacked in sophistication, it made up for in “the charm of the farm,” as Eavis calls it. “We gave away cow’s milk for free.” Thirty-nine years later, Glastonbury is one of the largest festivals in the world. More than 170,000 fans fl ock annually to Eavis’ Worthy Farm in , , many camping on-site for six to seven days. And at 73, Eavis is still very much involved in creating the lineups. “I do write a personal letter and follow it up with a phone call,” he says. “I try to deal with the headliners myself.” As for that style arbiter Kate Moss, whose Glastonbury getup — Hunter Wellies and short shorts — launched a major trend when she was photographed traipsing the grounds in 2005, Eavis acknowledges that “young hippie girls are very well dressed.”

•Past Headliners: David Bowie, Joan Baez, Genesis, Sinéad O’Connor, Lou Reed, Lenny Kravitz, Johnny Cash, Oasis, Robbie Williams, Bob Dylan, , Jay-Z, Blur, Lady GaGa •Celebrity Attendees: Kate Moss, Peaches and Pixie Geldof, Kelly Osbourne •Festival Fashion: Wellies, Liberty prints, rain slickers

• Past Headliners: Jane’s Addiction, Nine Inch Nails, Rage Against The Machine, Hole, The Smashing LOLLAPALOOZA Pumpkins, Wu-Tang Clan, Weezer, Amy “It was unbelievable,” says Perry Farrell of the US Festival, Winehouse, Kanye a three-day concert held in San Bernardino, Calif., in 1982, West, Kings of Leon which featured the likes of The Ramones, David Bowie • Celebrity Attendees: and The Kinks. For Farrell, then a wannabe musician Lady GaGa was fi rst waiting tables in Los Angeles, attending the Steve Wozniak- noticed here, Ashlee sponsored festival was a revelatory experience. “I bopped Simpson, Lindsay around on LSD and I had this precognitive [idea] that I’d be Lohan up there one day and putting shows together, ” he says. • Festival Fashion: In the late Eighties, Farrell envisioned a roving multicity Ray-Ban Wayfarers, fair with music, art and alterna-culture (tattoo artists, pro Converse sneakers wrestlers) — “like taking a Woodstock on the road,” he says — that would showcase his popular band, Jane’s Addiction, and others like it. And from its debut in 1991, Lollapalooza enjoyed a strong run as the venue for Nineties grunge and alt-rock. That is, until increased competition, industry corporatization and dwindling ticket sales led Farrell to shelve the concept after 1997. Despite several revivals, Lollapalooza didn’t hit its stride again until 2005, when Farrell and his new partners, Austin- based promoters C3 Presents, anchored the festival in Chicago’s Grant Park. Now, he says, “Our business has never been better, and the quality of our festival has never been better.” That’s not to say Farrell doesn’t have issues with the state of music today. Take the dwindling drug culture, for example. “They’ve clamped down so much that the youth of today, they’re just not as experimental,” he says. “I know that drugs cause a lot of problems for people, but if I look at it as an artist and as a musician, I would tell you that music that does not have a trace of drugs in it, which is the pop music of today, it’s not very good. It’s not very creative.” He maintains that festival fashion, too, has declined: “The kids at the original Lollapaloozas did not look like [they] had just come off the street; you looked like you had been underground. Kids today, it looks like everything is prefabricated for them, even their look. “I’m a little sad about it,” Farrell muses. “I’m supposed to be the guy who’s Kate Moss at Glastonbury, 2005. getting older and afraid of the youth, and I’m wishing that they would be wilder.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2009 7 WWD.COM AUSTIN CITY LIMITS As Perry Farrell says of his Lollapalooza partners and Austin City Limits Music Festival founders C3 Presents, “You know, in Texas, they like to do things large. But in Austin, they like to keep it freaky.” The result is this eclectic and bluesy fall festival, founded in 2002 in the Lone Star State’s most laid-back • Past Headliners: city. “We started doing our festivals Ryan Adams, Wilco, from the ground up, not the top R.E.M., Sheryl Crow, down,” says Charles Attal, one of Van Morrison, John the three Cs at C3 Presents, who got Mayer, Bob Dylan, Björk, his start playing and later booking Beck, Foo Fighters club gigs. “We always went for the • Celebrity meat of the lineup fi rst. Then, if Attendees: Matthew the headliners came in, great. If McConaughey, Drew they didn’t, it was OK, too, because Barrymore, Lance we knew we had 80 to 120 bands Armstrong that were really cool and that were • Festival Fashion: selling 1,000 or 2,000 tickets a night Bathing suits, fl ip- [playing] nightclubs.” fl ops, cowboy hats It’s an outlook that has earned the annual event, which owes its name to the renowned PBS concert series, a reputation as the go-to festival for indie rock acts on the brink of stardom. “If something’s popping at the Fans at club level, we want it,” says Attal, adding that a well- Austin City balanced lineup is as important as keeping the names Limits Music fresh and new. “It’s like putting a puzzle together.” Festival, 2005.

BONNAROO MUSIC AND ARTS FESTIVAL PYTs at Coachella, 2007. Of all the Stateside music festivals, Bonnaroo’s four-day camping/music/hippie fest comes closest to capturing the Woodstock peace-and-love ethos. Situated on a 700-acre farm in Manchester, Tenn., Bonnaroo was created by Superfl y Productions, a concert promotion company with roots in jazz and jam-band music, and AC Entertainment. Rick Farman, a partner in Superfl y, explains: “We started to see bands that were attracting an audience that wanted to travel to see them play and to be at an event where a lot of different music was being presented.” They were right: In 2002, Bonnaroo’s inaugural year, the jam-band-heavy festival grossed $9 million. “[People are] coming for the music and all the activities we have going on,” says Farman. “But a lot of it is about living there for four days, meeting people, going to a farm and camping.” Sound familiar? “Obviously there were other political factors driving that moment [at Woodstock],” Farman says. “But the [Bonnaroo] concept of trying to get young people to peacefully camp together and build their own sort of city out of nothing has a very similar feeling.” Thus, corporate presence is subtle and potential sponsors, thoroughly vetted. “We always come from the standpoint of, What are you doing for the fan? How • Past Headliners: is the fan benefi ting from that particular company’s Trey Anastasio, presence?” says Farman, noting that Garnier, which has Widespread Panic, a multiyear deal with Bonnaroo, has upgraded shower Dave Matthews Band, facilities on the campgrounds and provides free bath Neil Young & Crazy products and a hair salon, where attendees can get blow-

Horse, Jack Johnson, JASON MERRITT/FILMMAGIC BY outs and cuts — amenities one would have been hard Jurassic 5, The Police, pressed to fi nd at Woodstock. Pearl Jam, Bruce Springsteen and the E Street Band

• Celebrity Attendees: BUSH; BONNAROO Drew Barrymore, Justin Long, Joy Bryant • Festival Fashion: Dreadlocks, face paint, tie-dye, feathers, psychedelic prints •Past Headliners: Madonna, Iggy and the Stooges, The Chemical Brothers, Radiohead, Justin Long Red Hot Chili Peppers, and Drew The Pixies, Depeche Barrymore at Mode, Prince, Paul Bonnaroo, McCartney, M.I.A. 2009. •Celebrity Attendees: COACHELLA VALLEY MUSIC AND ARTS FESTIVAL Nicole Richie, Shia

LaBeouf, Sienna Miller, TIM MOSENFELDER/GETTY CHRISTY LIMITS BY IMAGES; COACHELLA BY “We wanted to do something that was a little different,” Kate Bosworth, says Paul Tollett, president of Los Angeles-based Jake Gyllenhaal, concert promotion agency Goldenvoice, of Coachella. Reese Witherspoon, “[We wanted] something that had a heavy dance Chloë Sevigny component to it, but also rock, indie rock and hip-hop — •Festival Fashion: what everyone was listening to out here. And we wanted Rompers, fedoras, to make it a little higher-end.” gladiator sandals, And as festival launches go, Tollett, who had denim cutoffs previously promoted raves and other concerts in Southern California, lays claim to one of the most harrowing. He and his company launched Coachella mere months after Woodstock ’99 went up, quite literally, in smoke — bonfi res and crowd violence were so severe, even MTV fl ed the premises. The event also lost $800,000, forcing him to shelve the project until 2001. CITY JOSIE MINER; AUSTIN BY IMAGES; LOLLAPALOOZA “It was kind of bad timing,” acknowledges Tollett, who grew up watching festival documentaries like D.A. Pennebaker’s “Monterey Pop” (1968) and Michael Wadleigh’s “Woodstock” (1970). “[I was nervous] that our show might get canceled. We were trying to sell tickets and people were saying that festivals were over. Like, ‘Look at what happened at Woodstock — this stuff should be outlawed.’ And even if MJ KIM/GETTY BY it’s not outlawed, who would want to go to something like that?” The show went on, albeit after a one-year hiatus. Coachella is now one of the best-known and fanciest festivals in the country, luring A-list musicians, Hollywood stars and the most fashionable fans out there to the desertlike Empire Polo Field in

Indio, Calif., several hours east of Los Angeles. GLASTONBURY PHOTO 8 WWD, wednesday, august 12, 2009

Woodstock Inc. By Valerie Seckler themselves,” he said. “Woodstock was supposed to be antimaterialist. Younger generations don’t have a prob- Woodstock has long since traveled to the lem with marketing. Gen-Xers and Millennials are more marketing mainstream. like, ‘Why not market it?’” But the cascade of retro merch ahead of its 40th an- Especially since they’re fascinated with the pop cul- niversary — including pricy items such as tapestries, ture being repackaged. “What’s amazing is how younger fine art photographs, and a $500 box set featuring the generations defer to the excellence of Boomer pop cul- “Woodstock Experience” coffee-table book by official ture,” added Howe, 57, who graduated from high school festival photographer Henry Diltz — brings with it a himself in 1969. “I’ve got a son who knows more about dose of irony. the Sixties and Seventies bands than I do.” “The counterculture was gone a long time ago,” said One Baby Boomer having a laugh about Woodstock , who created the Woodstock Music and is Bob Wendover, 54, director of the Center for Art Fair 40 years ago with then-Capitol Records execu- Generational Studies in Aurora, Colo. Wendover was tive and fellow Brooklyn native Artie Kornfeld. invited to a “come as your favorite hippie” Woodstock “If you can do something with a brand that can have party Saturday for a friend who was turning 60. “Baby a positive effect and doesn’t hurt the brand, there’s Boomers are always going back to the past,” Wendover nothing wrong with that,” Lang said of marketing the said. “They had happy childhoods, despite the Vietnam Sixties phenomenon. Lang, Kornfeld and Woodstock War and [fight for] civil rights, and they like to reflect backer Joel Rosenman have been doing that through back to that time.” Woodstock Ventures, originally formed in February 1969 to stage the event that drew almost 500,000 people to T-shirts Max Yasgur’s farmland at White Lake in Bethel, N.Y. marking Woodstock’s To wit: 40th anniversary were • A Summer of Love apparel collection of T-shirts sold exclusively at Target. and baby-doll tops exclusive to Target was a near sellout in about two weeks, when licensing agent Live Merchandise expected it to be available for the summer season. • “The Woodstock Experience,” in the form of a Sony/Legacy lim- ited edition box set of 10 CDs plus memorabilia is an Amazon top-40 rock bestseller (at $77.49, reduced from s “The Road to Woodstock”: Michael Lang revisits three $99.98) in its first six weeks. days of peace and music. • An exhibit of about 50 Woodstock artifacts, including John Sebastian’s tie- ing ventures in video, such as Warner’s new “3 Days of dyed cape, which have become emblematic Peace & Music: Ultimate Collector’s Edition” DVD/Blu- of the event, are on display for five months at ray; a new two-hour documentary, “Woodstock: Now the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum and Then,” produced by Barbara Kopple, which airs in Cleveland. Friday on VH1 and Monday on the History Channel; Marketing has become the way many people Lang and George-Warren’s Woodstock memoir, and try to experience Woodstock anew, said Kate merchandise deals in about 30 countries via Newlin, of Kate Newlin Consulting and author of Live Nation Merchandise, the licensing agent “Passion Brands” (Prometheus Books: 2009). “It’s of Woodstock Ventures. Products range from a seminal event in our lives together, and we’re guitar straps and picks to blankets, beach processing it as a marketing event,” Newlin said. towels, glassware, coasters and mugs. “Marketing as a way we experience things, versus Spencer Gifts has been carrying some ceremonies, parades — social gatherings not pri- of the goods in the U.S. In Japan, there is marily linked to the selling of something — has even a cobranded license for purses fea- resonated [very] strongly. Life-event marketing turing both the “Peanuts” cartoon charac- moves us from one thing to another. This speaks ter Woodstock and messages of “Woodstock: to the rising commercial aspect of our lives. We 1969-2009” and “Love.” The offer of products in mourn Michael Jackson and take his records to the U.S. via 20 licensees of Live Nation Merchandise number one.” — granted the Woodstock “master license” by Woodstock It also reflects the demystification of an event After 40 years, “it may make you feel nos- Ventures in 2005 — has generated retail sales of about $10 that in its time was considered a threat to the sta- talgic in more of a good way,” suggested Holly George- million this year, said Michael Krassner, Live Nation’s ex- tus quo. “As it grows older, we take the danger out,” Warren, a former editor at Rolling Stone and co-author ecutive vice president of retail and licensing. generation expert Neil Howe said. “It no longer seems of Lang’s new book, “The Road to Woodstock” (Ecco: “Target had exclusivity on the Woodstock-inspired disrupting. We’re left with the artifice.” $29.99). In 1969, “there was a lot of griping in the coun- Summer of Love’ apparel through September; J.C. Amusement about the packaging and marketing terculture by people opposing the festival as a rip-off Penney, Macy’s, Gap and Kohl’s are [expected to] bring in of Woodstock probably runs strongest among Baby of the culture. Even [rock impresario] Woodstock product after that,” Krassner said. As of Aug. Boomers, who by Howe’s markers are now 49 to 66. “The was adamantly against the festival at first; [he thought] 3, target.com was offering a handful of Woodstock-related people who make fun of the whole idea are the Boomers these upstarts were usurping his efforts.” goods, including two slim-fit cotton Summer of Love People’s interest in owning and experiencing a piece T-shirts at $8.99 apiece (even though “Summer of Love” of Woodstock was evident in the viewer response to a one- actually refers to 1967); a silver metal beverage bucket im- hour QVC offering of festival-related goods on July 22 by printed with the dove-on-guitar-neck symbol ($16.99), and Lang and Baron Wolman, who photographed the event for the “Woodstock 40th Anniversary Ultimate Collector’s Rolling Stone. “We sold a considerable amount of mer- Edition” Warner Home Video Blu-ray set ($59.99). The re- chandise — $150,000 worth at 2 a.m.,” Wolman said of the maining Ts were gone from the site on Aug. 4. relatively inexpensive products, which included T-shirts, Woodstock’s trip to the mainstream began in the CDs, photos and books. “Woodstock — Three Days That Eighties, historians and generation experts said, peg- Rocked the World,” a limited edition of Wolman’s photo- ging its broader acceptance to the quieting of social graphs, plus Wolman’s picture of Carlos Santana at the and cultural disruptions and the ascendancy of Ronald festival, signed by the photographer, went for $42. Reagan to the White House. “People came to terms with “Even with an increase in sales of digital music, it in 1989, and totally by 1999,” Howe said of 10-year an- there is still a demand for the physical product,” Rich niversary intervals. “In 1979, the values it represented Yoegel, director of merchandising for QVC, said of the were still extremely controversial and many targets of decision to televise the network’s “Woodstock Festival that countercultural movement were still in power.” 40th Anniversary Celebration.” Lang himself retreated from the fair he staged just “In addition to our focus on the now-collectible, after the event, and only returned to Woodstock Ventures physical product, QVC also has the opportunity to bring 15 years ago. “Right after it, I shut all that out. It was an the music to life through our on-air guests’ stories or by overpowering event,” said Lang, head of the Michael having the artist perform live,” Yoegel said. Lang Organization, an event production and artist man- The two priciest Woodstock items on QVC went for agement group. “It was a hard thing to get away from.” $150: a framed replica of the original dove-on-a-guitar- There’s an underlying theme that’s been the basis of neck poster paired with authentic Woodstock tickets, marketing Woodstock, said Diltz, the only photographer and a limited edition print of the crowd, which Wolman of the event who was paid by Woodstock Ventures ($500 captured onstage with his “widest-angle lens.” and round-trip airfare). He characterized that feeling as, One thing that has changed markedly is the sprawling “We’ve done it. Let’s all get along. Why are we fighting?” enterprise Woodstock Ventures has become. Originally Now, there’s Woodstock as museum piece. “Woodstock: funded with $495,000 — $220,000 of it for the festival — The 40th Anniversary” opened July 3 at the Rock and Roll VH1’s Woodstock microsite promoting Barbara Kopple’s new from venture capitalist John Roberts, a business partner of Hall of Fame and Museum, two years after the Whitney documentary, “Woodstock: Now and Then.” Rosenman’s, the business has grown to encompass licens- Museum of American Art’s “Summer of Love” show. The WWD, wednesday, august 12, 2009 9 WWD.COM

Morrison Hotel Gallery updated a Woodstock festival poster to tell of a Michael Lang/Henry MusicalWoodstock means something toNotes everyone — those who actually played in the mud piles Diltz book-signing event. of Bethel, N.Y., and those who watched the footage decades later. Here, diverse types weigh in on those infamous three days of peace and music. — Amanda FitzSimons

“[Woodstock] was where anyone who aspired to be a hippie wanted to be. I wasn’t old enough at the time [to go], but I The whole reason that you want to did read about it and definitely knew about it. Anybody that play“ in music festivals is because of what lived in America knew about it. It was on the cover of Life Magazine and in every paper. — Anna Sui Woodstock stood for. Then you get to one “I was the only one who didn’t go….There was a feeling that and it’s nothing like that. ­ you could do anything — no rules and restrictions [that were] — Shirley ”Manson, singer, Garbage part of the late Fifties, early Sixties. [We went] from girdles to no bra or panties. Ultimate freedom, however, always has “I have a little farm up in the area now and whenever I drive consequences, but it was an exhilarating time.” to Woodstock, I feel that atmosphere hanging around in — Norma Kamali the streets even though the festival was a bit away from the village. The good vibe lives on and the music is everywhere.” “Woodstock is one of the biggest inspirations of community — Helena Christensen getting together. Unfortunately, I didn’t go because I was too young.” — Donna Karan “The first thing that comes to mind is the music. People don’t feel music the way they used to. Woodstock was the “Music has always had a profound and positive effect on epitome [of that]. I wish I was around back then. It was just people, and with the it was an overt expression of a magical time. I go to a lot of festivals because I love music. that happiness. I may not know The Grateful Dead, but I At Woodstock, you were amongst legends, and not one or two do know that Sri Swami Satchidananda actually opened but tons. Only time will tell whether there’s a moment like Woodstock and spoke about peace and love through music, that again.” — Nicole Richie which are both things that I can support even if I don’t love the whole folk music thing.” — Russell Simmons “I was there. I didn’t have my driver’s license at that point. My older cousin surreptitiously wrangled her father’s car (fabricating a tall tale that we were invited to her friend’s family’s house on Cape Cod — none of us who went told I was thrilled I wasn’t there. What I our parents the truth in advance) and we embarked totally “wanted in life was to see the world. Then unprepared for the event and the conditions awaiting. It was three days of incredible music, mud, naked bodies, peace, I discovered a job that if I worked harder love and rationed Raisinettes — the only provision we were able to get our hands on.” than anyone else, I could travel and take — Charles DeCaro, creative director, Laspata DeCaro the time off as I pleased. That was the “My older brothers were complete hippies. I grew up in great thing about modeling. I was more France listening to Janis Joplin, The Doors, Jimi Hendrix, interested in going to Northern Uganda Bob Dylan. It was a borderless movement — still to this day, the name ‘Woodstock’ is magical to my French ears.” than Northern New York. I liked 1,000 — Sophie Theallet elephants more than 1,000 hippies. ­ “Woodstock was a revolution, liberation, constitution and — Lauren” Hutton real f--- off rock ’n’ roll. I think it’s a moment in history that speaks to so many generations because who can’t identify with peace, love and good times? We all need more of that.” “I grew up in San Francisco in the Seventies, so I’m used to — Erin Wasson that vibe. Woodstock was all about revolution and thinking of things in a different way. It’s actually a lot like the times we’re living in now.” — Peter Som Because I’m old, I was there. I “We Brits loved the music, but we were not so great at remember“ mom and pop there, a woman being hippies. We did not really have the deep ideological commitment to the counterculture. Me and my pals were screaming, and there’s a guy — this more about working on our look than worrying about politics woman with watermelon, watermelon on and changing the world. We had jobs in a department store, which was very un-Woodstock and very uncool. We loved Jimi my body and this woman with pink on her in his orange feather boa, but for all the wrong reasons. In face. And a black guy, with his guitar on the U.K., we had our Woodstock equivalent, the Isle of Wight Festival — Jimi Hendrix, Miles Davis, Jethro Tull, The Who fire — so that was one of them. And this and more. And Joni Mitchell. I remember her yelling at us woman screaming. And that is all. And I, and calling us a ‘bunch of tourists.’ I am sure she was right.” — Simon Doonan you know, searched. ­ — Courtney Love “Woodstock to me was something that I always assigned to ” (Love was five in 1969. WWD could find no prior my parents’ generation, and I always thought of it as a bit reference to her childhood attendance at Woodstock. elderly, something that was very distant and happened a However, at the in 1967, s A psychedelic poster for Ang Lee’s upcoming movie, very long time ago….[Doing this film] made me understand Jimi Hendrix did set his guitar on fire.) “Taking Woodstock.” my parents a little bit better.” — Mamie Gummer, star of “Taking Woodstock” exhibit, scheduled to run through Nov. 29, showcases a va- “I wasn’t around in 1969, but I still listen to tons of riety of “artifacts” including apparel, footwear, drawings “Babies were made at Woodstock from strange people who musicians from that time — Janis Joplin, The Band, Bob and layouts of the festival grounds, letters of regret from hadn’t met before. It was the place where all this energy from Dylan, Joe Cocker and Jimi Hendrix. And all of the bikinis acts including the Moody Blues, who could not make the this aggression and art and culture came together in one and cover-ups I did with Shoshanna for our Made With Love dates, and excerpts from the original “Woodstock” movie. moment. I want to go sit [at Woodstock] now and make my Collection this summer were inspired by Woodstock — the Among the highlights are the cape and jacket worn on- own mud pile and pretend 100,000 people are with me.” florals and the colors.” — Charlotte Ronson stage by Sebastian, who Diltz said was tie-dying all of his — Davis Guggenheim, director of “An Inconvenient Truth” clothes and bedsheets, as well as the tent he was living “What a tremendous influence that whole summer had. It in. Also on display are the brown leather boots Stephen “My dad went to Woodstock and I grew up hearing stories was about the Sixties, about young people thinking about Stills wore in performance, the brown vest donned by from that generation. I always wished our generation had the world, wars and politics and questioning things. That’s Lang during the festival and a letter from Apple Records gotten its s--- together to do something that cool.” exactly what’s happening today on a number of levels, and offering Billy Preston, James Taylor and a conceptual — Sophie Buhai, Vena Cava while it may be a different vibe now, this all came out of the artwork to stand in for the Plastic Ono Band. (Plastic Sixties.” — Patrick Robinson Ono’s John Lennon was unable to gain admittance to the U.S. at that time.) The letter from Apple went overlooked I didn’t go to Woodstock. I thought “For me, it wasn’t defining as far as style, but for Nicole as festival leaders scrambled to pull the event together. about“ it. I don’t like crowds. I just was too [Richie] it clearly was. From a musical perspective, it had “I’m as surprised as anybody about the sheer volume of an enormous impact on the world. For me, the coolest part all that’s going on this year with Woodstock as a marketed much of a scaredy cat to take LSD and would have been to see Joe Cocker play. He’s a legend.” phenomenon,” said Jim Henke, the museum’s vice presi- — Joel Madden dent of exhibitions and chief curator. “It was a cultural wild drugs. God, I would have loved to have turning point for rock, a who’s who of the late Sixties, been there. But I was really too chicken.­ — With contributions from Sarah Haight, early Seventies,” he added. “If not for Woodstock, you Marcy Medina, Bobbi Queen, Nick Axelrod, would not have a lot of the other festivals you have now.” — Betsey Johnson” Alessandra Codinha and Anne Riley-Katz 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2009 WWD.COM La Fontaine Launches Men’s Line Douglas Perfumeries By David Lipke Boss, Badgley Mischka, J. Crew and Coach. “I’ve been in this business for 25 years and I’ve DESIGNER PAul lA FONTAINE IS HOPING THE always wanted to work on my own brand,” said Posts Sales Increase third time’s a charm. Tsang, who got to know la Fontaine when the two The veteran men’s designer, who has held worked together on the aborted BCBG Attitude By Susan Stone design director posts at brands like BCBG and men’s sportswear launch in 2006. Claiborne, is launching an eponymous label for Born and raised in Melbourne, Australia, la BERLIN — Douglas Perfumeries reported Tuesday a sales uptick spring 2010, following two previous Fontaine launched his first label, of 2.2 percent to 1.45 billion euros, or $1.99 billion at average ex- efforts earlier in his career. a denim and sportswear collec- change, for the first nine months of its fiscal year. The expansive men’s contempo- tion called Cappuccino Club, in Douglas also maintained its outlook for the year, after a disap- rary collection is produced in his early 20s with the backing pointing second quarter caused the company to downgrade its over- partnership with the Hong of the Australian distributor of all sales and profits forecast in May. Its expectation for sales growth Kong–based manufactur- French Connection. After a short of 2 percent for the fiscal year remains unchanged. ing company D-Signs run of success, the line fizzled out The nine-month results cover the period from Oct. 1, 2008, to Inc. ltd. and la Fontaine went on to design June 30. The fiscal year for the Douglas Group, which includes “It’s sexy but wear- jobs at JAG, All Saints in london books, jewelry, fashion and confectionary retail businesses in addi- able, and downtown WWD and then Claiborne in New York. tion to the perfumeries, ends Sept. 30. cool without being over- In 2002 he struck out on his Nine-month figures for the firm’s 451 German perfumeries ly aggressive,” noted la Men’s own with the first incarnation of showed a 1.6 percent sales rise to 718.9 million euros, or $955.9 Fontaine of his designs, which the Paul la Fontaine label, which million, but a 0.3 percent decline on a like-for-like basis. Douglas are being sold under the Paul la lasted for eight seasons and was Perfumeries’ 766 international doors increased sales by 2.8 percent Fontaine lounge moniker. A higher- sold at a number of major ac- in the nine-month period to 728.8 million euros, or $969 million.

priced Paul la Fontaine Collection WILLIAMS counts including Bloomingdale’s, Highlights were Russia and Poland, while sales declined in Spain, brand is planned down the road. Macy’s West, Nordstrom and Portugal, Italy, France and the Baltic States. Suits in the collection are mer- A look from TODD Printemps. When that collection Net income for Douglas Group fell 16 percent to 73.6 million chandised as separates, with jack- the spring BY closed due to financial pressures, euros, or $97.9 million, during the nine-month period. Sales for the collection.

ets retailing for $375 and pants for PHOTO la Fontaine was tapped by BCBG group, which includes a network of 1,999 stores, were up 2.7 percent $175. Woven shirts are $135 to $195, Max Azria Group to launch a over the previous year to 2.5 billion euros, or $3.32 billion, with like- denim is $150 to $195, sweaters are men’s sportswear line under the for-like sales down 0.9 percent. $90 to $225, outerwear is $395 to $595 and leath- BCBG Attitude label. The debut collection was sold Group operating earnings dropped to 120.5 million euros, or er pieces are $695 to $750. The overarching aes- into about 100 stores for the spring 2007 season, but $160.2 million, against the previous year’s figure of 136.7 million thetic is one of American classicism melded with the company decided to shelve the project before euros, or $181.8 million, an 11.8 percent decline. Earnings before European flair, as evidenced in the clean lines of the product came to retail. interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization dipped 9 percent to a sharply tailored suit and the elegant expressive- For the past two years, la Fontaine has worked 205 million euros, or $272.6 million. ness of a voile shirt with a bold floral print. at Italy’s John Richmond and David Mayer brands, Operating earnings before taxes came in at 120 million euros, or Fabrics are sourced from both Europe and the latter of which he continues to consult for. $159.6 million. Asia, with almost all the pieces made in the facto- As part of the spring Paul la Fontaine launch, Year-to-date, Douglas Perfumeries opened 69 new stores across ries of D-Signs Inc. ltd, except for knits. The line the designer has created a sublabel called 72 Europe. The perfumery arm will continue to be the focus of group is sold out of New York’s Market Showroom. Hours, which is a capsule collection of travel- investment, with store openings and updates on tap in most of the D-Signs Inc. is a company set up by factory owner friendly pieces made from technical Japanese and countries where Douglas is present, according to the company, Derek Tsang to produce the Paul la Fontaine col- Korean fabrics that are both wrinkle and water re- which added that underperforming perfumeries will be closed in lection. Tsang’s Hong Kong facilities have in the sistant. The line is priced 15 to 20 percent higher some foreign markets. past done work for clients like Donna Karan, Hugo than the Paul la Fontaine lounge range. BEAUTY BEAT Philosophy Taps Stevens as CEO Philosophy Inc. has named Ken Stevens as chief executive officer, effective Aug. 17. Stevens has been serving as the prestige beauty firm’s interim ceo since May, following Michael McNamara’s deci- sion to exit the post. — Molly Prior

when others fail... FTC Charges 4 Firms waitex provides In False Labeling Probe Complete end-to-end supply chain solutions By Liza Casabona WASHINGTON — The Federal Trade Commission has charged four • 28 years of experience in the garment industry companies with selling clothing and textiles deceptively labeled as bamboo that were actually rayon and with making false environ- • 3 million sq. ft. of modern distribution facilities in New mental claims on their products. The FTC also indicated that the advent of bamboo as a “green” al- York, New Jersey, & Los Angeles ternative natural fiber in recent years could be called into question. The FTC said Tuesday that it filed cases against Pure Bamboo • 1000 service specialists in the U.S. llC; Sami Designs llC, which operates as Jonano; CSE Inc., doing business as Mad Mod, and the M Group, operating as Bamboosa. • EDI, UCC128, ASN, TMS, scan & pack capability Three of the companies settled the charges and agreed to fix the problems. litigation against the M Group is pending. • Complete back office data processing services According to the FTC, the companies made unsubstantiated “green” • Apparel ERP software on demand via remote access claims and did not accurately represent the fiber content of their prod- ucts when they were labeled as “100 percent bamboo fiber.” • Pick, pack & ship by piece or pre-packed carton The FTC said to manufacture soft textiles out of bamboo, the raw material usually goes through chemical processes that turn it into • GOH/Flatpack storage by carton/unit/sq.ft. rayon, a man-made fiber, and strip it of natural antimicrobial prop- erties and biodegradability. In addition, the process requires toxic • Garment refurbishment and label sewing chemicals that release pollutants into the air, the FTC said. “Companies and buyers should be aware that clothing and textiles • Hoffman Press / Steam tunnel labeled as bamboo are likely rayon made from bamboo and should be labeled as such,” said Korin Ewing, a staff attorney with the FTC. • Purchase order financing (LDP Program) “From what we’ve seen, this is a fairly widespread problem.” A spokesman for Bamboosa said the FTC complaint is “splitting For a risk-free assessment: hairs on the language,” but acknowledged that the claims it makes about the environmental sensitivity and properties of its bamboo NY - Barry: (212) 967-8100 products are accurate. The filings marked the first FTC action regarding bamboo tex- LA - Alfred: (909) 476-8128 tiles, but Canada’s Competition Bureau said in March it will step up monitoring and regulation of fabrics labeled “bamboo” begin- Email: [email protected] ning Sept. 1. The majority of bamboo fiber and fabric is sourced from China. www.waitex.com The Organic Trade Association, a membership-based business group for the organic industry in North America, did not return calls seeking comment about the impact of the FTC ruling. WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2009 11 WWD.COM MEMO PAD BACK FROM THE DEAD?: Music magazine Vibe appears its subscriber file of users to check the availability of products in the magazine to have been resuscitated. On Tuesday, Uptown Media more than 600,000. at stores near to them and reserve them. The app will be and its backers, InterMedia Partners, were close to CapitalSource, which refreshed monthly and will include products chosen by a deal to buy Vibe and relaunch the urban music reportedly provided the celebrity cover model. Actress Selena Gomez is on the title, which folded in June. The impending deal was the financing to Wicks September cover (there are actually three different covers first reported by Advertising Age and The Wall Street Group, had no comment featuring Gomez). Journal and later confirmed by InterMedia, although on the deal, and Wicks Seventeen may represent the first iPhone app from it declined further comment. According to the Journal Group could not be Hearst but it isn’t the only magazine with one. Over report, InterMedia plans to publish the title as a reached for comment at Condé Nast, Lucky and reviews from Wired.com are quarterly and reload the Web site, which could go by press time. available on the iPhone, while Condé Nast’s Web-only live in a few weeks. Vibe would fit into InterMedia’s — Stephanie D. Smith brands such as Style.com, Men.Style.com and Epicurious portfolio of media holdings, which include not only also have apps, and Concierge.com will launch one Uptown, a lifestyle magazine for the African-American THERE’S AN APP FOR at the end of the month. Men’s Health and Women’s elite, but music program “Soul Train.” And one of the THAT: Seventeen and Health, published by Rodale, have iPhone apps, as does group’s principals has deep roots at Vibe — Uptown’s its parent, Hearst BlackBook magazine. Time Inc. has apps for People, founder and group publisher Len Burnett was one Seventeen magazine has Magazines, are joining CNNMoney, Sports Illustrated (Swimsuit app) and Golf. of the founders of the magazine. In 2006, Wicks developed an iPhone app. the iPhone app rush. Meredith is slated to introduce apps for More and Parents Group purchased Vibe for a reported $35 million, The teen title will allow this fall. — Amy Wicks and Burnett served as group publisher. Even then, according to former Vibe insiders, Burnett expressed an intent to buy Vibe. (Burnett did not return calls for comment by press time). In 2007, Burnett left Vibe to rejoin Uptown. Vibe folded this summer after suffering from a loss of advertising revenue and THE EDGE YOU NEED operational mismanagement under Wicks Group. Though financial details have not been FRESHNESS • TREND • VITAL ENERGY revealed, Vibe is saddled with debt, a large chunk of that from LittleMissMatched Readies Launch Of Fifth Ave. Unit Just a few weeks shy of its fifth anniversary, LittleMissMatched, the New york-based legwear label, is opening a fifth avenue store. the company will unveil a 1,500-square-foot space at 565 fifth avenue at 46th street on aug. 19. Next month, there are plans to open a 1,000-square- foot store in Disneyland, where LittleMissMatched already has a temporary one. the brand also has a store in Grand Central terminal, which bowed Over 500 lines of Juried ReadyToWear and Accessories in May. Both of the new locations will have white interiors to play up the colorful patterned AUGUST 31  SEPTEMBER 2, 2009 socks, as well as giant “mixing bowls,” where shoppers are en- THE VENETIAN HOTEL & RESORT, LAS VEGAS couraged to scoop up various styles, try them on and create customized three-packs. Jonah Attend: 8666966020 | Exhibit: 2126864412 staw, LittleMissMatched’s co- founder and chief executive of- ficer, said, “In keeping with our existing retail strategy of open- accessoriestheshow.com | modalasvegas.com ing stores in the most highly trafficked areas in the country, fifth avenue is one of the most popular shopping districts for both local New yorkers and tourists alike.” Projected retail volume for the next 12 months is $1.5 million. ann acierno, who joined the company earlier this sum- mer as president, is trying to give the brand more of a fashion spin. Most recently, Remember to visit MRket she served as chief execu- tive officer of Bill Blass New The Exclusive Menswear Show york and prior to that was president of new business de- velopment at tommy hilfiger. LittleMissMatched will in- troduce sportswear for teens and tweens this spring, and a women’s collection is being considered. Properties of Business Journals, Inc. — Rosemary Feitelberg 12 WWD, wednesday, august 12, 2009 WWD.COM Ellen Tracy Falls Off Bridge Continued from page one A spokesman for Macy’s said, “We’re always talking to all of our vendors about opportu- nities,” but declined to comment on any discussions. Liz Rodbell, executive vice president, merchandising, at Lord & Taylor, noted, “We’ve certainly let the management know we’d be interested in pursuing opportunities with them.” Dillard’s declined to comment. William Sweedler, co-chairman and chief executive officer of Brand Matter LLC, parent company of Ellen Tracy, declined to comment on the brand’s plans. But, he admitted, “We are in the process of evaluating a better line.” Ellen Tracy’s licensees, in areas such as footwear, coats and suits, are already po- sitioned in the better category, and an exclusive sportswear deal with a major retailer wouldn’t impact those licensed businesses with other retailers, said sources. The company’s plan to exit the bridge floor has put major real estate in limbo at key accounts such as Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Dillard’s and Lord & Taylor — and is a further blow to a brand that was once the un- disputed leader of the category, with sales of more than $170 million at wholesale at its peak. It also represents yet another hiccup in retailers’ attempts to reinvigorate the bridge market — which have included calling it anything but bridge. Yet for labels such as Eileen Fisher, Lafayette 148, Elie Tahari and even Tory Burch, the departure of Ellen Tracy could present a significant opportunity to further increase their market share. Ellen Tracy, which has a following among Baby Boomers for its versatile separates, has been an anchor brand on the bridge floor for decades, and its departure next spring will require not only a shifting of real estate, but also the addition of some new re- sources to fill the gap. The company’s problems with retailers have been further com- pounded by the fact that its fall deliveries were about four weeks late as it transitioned from one operator — Fashionology — to another — RVC. Fashionology, which had man- Fall looks from Lafayette 148. ufactured Ellen Tracy’s bridge line, is being wound down and liquidated. Sources said Right: A fall Eileen Fisher style. there were several million dollars worth of unpaid bills to Chinese suppliers, part of which stemmed from a dispute over the quality of the merchandise with one company, which refused to take it back or reduce the price. Sweedler declined to comment. RVC has purchased Ellen Tracy’s fall inventory and, going forward, will manufac- We’re just getting the business going with Ellen ture and distribute the better sportswear line. Ellen Tracy has moved out of its cor- “ porate showroom at 1400 Broadway, let many people go, and the brand is relocating Tracy and we’re disappointed with the situation. within RVC at 1384 Broadway. — Liz Rodbell, Lord & ”Taylor After a year of bringing the Ellen Tracy brand back to life and stores seeing an uptick in sales over the past few months — with further improvements ex- pected for fall 2009 — retailers are clearly disappointed the company plans to need work. Instead of being fashion designers, we’ve become fashion negotia- vacate the bridge area. tors,” said Tahari. Lord & Taylor’s Rodbell said, “We certainly have had a nice run with the Deirdre Quinn, ceo of Lafayette 148, said, “We love where we’re at. We found a return of Mark [Mendelson, Ellen Tracy president] to the brand. We’re just niche.” She said her collection is really about “Edward’s [Wilkerson, the brand’s getting the business going with Ellen Tracy and we’re disappointed with designer] understanding the customer. He gets her.” the situation.” Quinn said Wilkerson designs 1,500 styles a year and there are no restric- However, Rodbell added, “I do think the brand will have tremendous tions. Quinn likes to describe the line as “chic, modern and luxurious.” opportunity in the better zone and look forward to seeing it. The brand Starting this past spring, Lafayette 148 began adjusting its price means so much to our customer. I think there’s a consumer interest in points by lowering them by 15 percent. In addition to its department great product.” store clientele, Lafayette 148 sells several hundred specialty stores. She believes Ellen Tracy sportswear, positioned on the better “It’s really important to us. We only do trunk shows with specialty floor, will reach customers it hasn’t served previously. Rodbell noted stores. They give us a direct read. They’ve been good partners.” L&T also does business with Ellen Tracy’s better licensees, includ- One benefit of Ellen Tracy’s move to better? “I could scoop ing shoes and coats. The better floor at Lord & Taylor is dominated up some good people who are available,” she said. by brands such as Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Kors by Michael Kors, Monica Forman, president of Magaschoni, said, “This kind Calvin Klein white label and Jones New York. Its bridge floor in- of stuff is always going on in the industry. I never liked the word cludes brands such as Eileen Fisher, Lafayette 148, Anne Klein and, bridge. We’re all dressing all types of people, and the names don’t new for fall, Elie Tahari. Rodbell sees a big opportunity for Tahari’s work anymore. People are looking for quality and style, and change is line, which is going into a handful of stores. always happening in our industry, and we just want to be focused and stay One retailer told WWD that he was disappointed Ellen Tracy was the course.” leaving the bridge floor and was planning the next few seasons without Executives at Saks, Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale’s de- the brand, even though the store hadn’t received any definitive word. clined comment for this story. Ellen Tracy’s decision to depart bridge departments has prompted Paul Charron, a senior adviser at Warburg Pincus, and former chairman other companies in the category to take a hard look at their own busi- and ceo of Liz Claiborne Inc. — who, in fact, ran the company when Claiborne nesses. Several firms interviewed said they’re staying the course, and acquired Ellen Tracy — has seen major changes in the bridge sector. many have lowered price points. They feel they have a clear identity and Claiborne bought Ellen Tracy in September 2002 from the company’s a strong relationship with the bridge customer. founders for about $180 million when the brand was doing about $171 million “It [Ellen Tracy] was such a dominant and big company in the bridge in sales, and sold it in April 2008 to Fashionology LLC and Brand Matter for market. They were an anchor, and stores will have to find other people,” said $42.3 million. RVC was licensed to produce Ellen Tracy last month. designer Elie Tahari. He believes it’s tough in the bridge market, and he Under Claiborne, Ellen Tracy went through several management and de- doesn’t feel his line has any crossover customers with Ellen Tracy. The Ellen sign changes, and was criticized for being over-designed and costumey. By Tracy customer “is much older; we border on contemporary,” he added. eliminating costs and combining many of the front- and back-end capabilities Elie Tahari is a top vendor on the bridge floors of stores such as Saks with Dana Buchman, which Claiborne also owns, the Ellen Tracy line lost Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale’s, and is positioned on the contemporary much of the DNA established by Herb Galen and Linda Allard, who ran the floor of Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. brand at its peak. The business suffered from the weakening of the tradition- Tahari believes firms such as Eileen Fisher and Lafayette 148 will take al bridge market and product issues, and never regained its footing. Under the Ellen Tracy business, as well as some new resources that are being Claiborne’s ownership, Ellen Tracy’s volume slid steadily and was about $100 put on the bridge floor. In fact, Saks Fifth Avenue is adding several new million when the company was sold. vendors on the bridge floor this fall, he noted. “Over the past several years the bridge category has moved from classic Earlier this year, Saks set up a new department called Wear in all and traditional to updated and modern,” said Charron. “With the prolifera- 53 units in an effort to instill new life into the stale bridge category. tion of brands like Tahari and Theory, the evolution of the consumer and the (Bloomingdale’s was first to do so four years ago, renaming its bridge floor retailers’ desire to become more modern and updated, it was a disadvantage “The New View” and rejiggering the vendor mix.) An Ellen Tracy for brands like Ellen Tracy.” Wear at Saks puts the focus on less distributed labels such as Lavia 18, look for fall, its Charron said the evolution of the market “posed a real conundrum for brands Aquascutum and Natorious, as well as Elie Tahari, Tory Burch, Eileen last season in like Ellen Tracy and Dana Buchman.” Last year, Liz Claiborne Inc. decided to Fisher, Lafayette 148, DKNY, M Missoni and the private label Clothes bridge. take Dana Buchman, a previous bridge vendor, to Kohl’s exclusively. (real). Suits and head-to-toe dressing previously drove bridge sales, but He believes that if Mendelson plays an active role, “it can be very successful Saks decided to focus on items and less formality, as well as color and mix and match- at department stores at the better level.” However, he warned, “I think it’ll be hard ing to create outfits using different labels. to remake Ellen Tracy into something it has not traditionally been. It has to have a “It’s very tough to be profitable in bridge,” said Tahari. “Between the markdown similar point of view on the better floor.” Charron feels a good idea would be to have money and the amount of sales the stores run, you have to pay so much.” Tahari be- an exclusive arrangement with a Dillard’s or a Macy’s. lieves department stores need to revamp the bridge floors to bring in more traffic and “I think it’s probably intelligent on their part,” Charron said of the move. “Will this more excitement and to make it more contemporary. be a $200 million business again? Probably not. Will there be markdown challenges? Despite the downturn in the economy, Tahari said his business is doing better than Yes, there will be. projected at stores such as Bloomingdale’s and Saks. He also believes stores will have an “As long as the Ellen Tracy on the better floor sets itself apart on the better floor easy time beating their numbers this fall, versus last fall when the economy crashed. and is within the ladies’ price point that’s a much more powerful story line,” he said. For this upcoming fall, Tahari lowered some of its price points, but for spring 2010, “When women see brands they couldn’t previously afford now affordable and acces- prices are down between 20 and 30 percent. “The factories need work and the mills sible, it resonates with the customer.” demandjump start for yourbrand atCoterie Photo by john aquino

COTERIE shOw pREvIEw - Section ii

In prInt & onlIne: September 16 Close: August 28 Bonus DIstrIButIon: Coterie Show

For more information on advertising, contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher, at 212-630-4737, or your WWD salesperson. 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2009 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes and more financial news, see WWD.com / business-news.

Deadline Pressure Remains for CIT 10 Best Performers By Vicki M. Young the Aug. 17 tender offer. The SEC filing was necessitated by CIT Group Inc. has two stress- CIT’s failure to file its quarterly report DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt inducing deadlines looming on the hori- for the period ended June 30. CIT includ- zon: Friday, for a debt tender offer, and ed information about the tender offer High Low Last %Change Oct. 1, for a restructuring plan. and events leading up to it, as well as the In a regulatory filing Tuesday planned restructuring strategy, as rea- with the Securities and Exchange sons for being unable to file a quarterly 0.6 0.54 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 32546 0.60 +15.38 Commission, CIT said the first steps Form 10-Q report on time. The quarterly of its restructuring plan are to com- reports are due 40 days after the end of 1.05 0.99 Frederick’s of Hollywood (FOH) - 27800 1.02 +5.15 plete a tender offer for its outstanding the fiscal period, according to the SEC. $1 billion in senior notes due Monday. CIT said it expects to file the 10-Q by 0.50 0.47 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) - 5368 0.49 +4.26 It already reached an agreement with Monday. It also reiterated material from major bondholders for a $3 billion se- a Form 8-K report filed on July 21 in cured term loan facility, which has been which it said it expects to file a second- 50.50 44.00 French Connection * (FCCN:L) - 236897 49.75 +3.65 drawn down. Presuming the tender offer quarter net loss in excess of $1.5 billion. is successful, neither CIT nor the steer- The six months loss is expected to be 2.41 2.18 Casual Male (CMRG) - 103778 2.40 +3.45 ing committee of the bondholder lend- more than $1.9 billion. ing group intends to file for Chapter 11 Moreover, the company repeated 31.45 30.41 Family Dollar (FDO) 15.1 1937197 31.32 +2.35 bankruptcy court protection. from its July 21 filing that its “ability to However, if the tender offer is not continue as a going concern” had been 0.46 0.43 Safilo * (SFL:MI) - 1383370 0.44 +2.33 completed and the firm is unable to ob- placed in “substantial doubt” because tain alternative financing, the company of the effects of “ongoing stress in the 27.74 26.45 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 24.4 4752410 27.46 +2.31 said it would be in default under its cred- credit markets, operating losses, credit it facility and “could seek relief ” under ratings downgrades and regulatory and the auspices of the bankruptcy court. cash restrictions” on its funding strategy 10.82 10.08 K-Swiss (KSWS) 29.0 139153 10.66 +2.11 CIT previously said it had received and liquidity position. enough offers, or 58 percent of the debt to An Aug. 9 research note by CreditSights 3.50 3.31 Retail Ventures (RVI) - 102950 3.45 +2.07 be tendered, to complete the repurchase analysts Adam Steer and David Hendler program. The tender offer expires Friday. left much doubt about CIT’s future. Shares of CIT dropped 28 cents, or The two said, “Over the longer time ho- 18.9 percent, to $1.20 in New York Stock rizon, we believe the threat of bankruptcy Exchange trading Tuesday. becomes more viable because CIT’s busi- 10 Worst Performers Looking ahead, CIT is working with ness model is broken.” They added a the steering committee to develop a re- broad-reaching exchange offer might be a DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt structuring plan acceptable to a major- possibility given CIT’s sizable maturities ity of the committee’s members by Oct. in November totaling $872 million and the High Low Last %Change 1. A draft agreement is due Friday and terms of the loan facility that require the presumably will include completion of adoption of a restructuring plan by Oct. 1. 0.10 0.10 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 4055 0.10 -16.67 Warnaco’s Q2 Profits, Sales Decline 6.25 5.59 Revlon (REV) 4.8 359334 5.60 -10.69 By Evan Clark Asia, Latin America and parts of Western Europe. “The good news is we have the 26.27 24.19 Fossil (FOSL) 15.0 2343894 25.07 -9.56 A drop in second-quarter sales balance sheet to support it,” he said. and earnings isn’t disrupting Warnaco Warnaco ended the quarter with cash 20.40 18.60 Cato (CTR) 16.9 601617 18.78 -7.94 Group Inc.’s plans for retail expansion. and cash equivalents of $177.6 million, a Net income for the three months ended war chest that could also come in handy as 24.12 22.34 Weyco (WEYS) 22.4 21712 22.51 -6.79 July 4 fell 8.2 percent to $17.8 million, or the firm evaluates potential acquisitions. 38 cents a diluted share, from $19.4 mil- In addition to growing the direct busi- 11.47 10.54 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 14.9 39793 10.60 -6.69 lion, or 41 cents, a year earlier. Revenues ness, Warnaco is working to expand its for the three months pulled back 9.4 per- Calvin Klein business generally and to cent to $455.9 million from $503.3 million. further increase its international pres- 6.29 5.86 Penn Real Estate (PEI) - 412853 5.88 -6.52 After adjusting for restructuring ence, which already accounts for about and other expenses, earnings per share 53 percent of the company’s revenues, 36.00 34.93 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 21.6 3360466 35.71 -6.30 came in as analysts tracked by Yahoo adjusting for currency fluctuations. Finance projected, at 48 cents. Sales in the sportswear group fell 13.18 12.50 Movado (MOV) - 105396 12.52 -4.79 Warnaco opened 43 stores during the 10.4 percent to $223.5 million, as inti- second quarter and is on a course to ex- mate apparel sales dropped 8.2 percent 4.14 3.95 American Apparel (APP) 82.8 182349 3.95 -4.59 pand its retail footprint by 24 percent this to $158.1 million and swimwear sales year, adding 120,000 square feet of space. declined 9.1 percent to $74.2 million. The company, which has 1,003 Calvin For the first half, income shot up 49.2 * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on Klein stores and has focused its direct percent to $55.3 million, or $1.19 a dilut- the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss efforts on the international markets, ed share, on a 7.2 percent decline in rev- francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. sees plenty of retail growth ahead. enues to $994.3 million. Lower expenses “Over the next three years, 20 per- helped boost results earlier in the year. cent [growth] a year seems like it’s do- Profits for the year are expected to be able for us,” said Joe Gromek, president somewhat better than previously indi- Fossil Stock Drops on Weak 3Q Guidance and chief executive officer, on a confer- cated. The company now expects earn- ence call with Wall Street analysts. ings of $2.60 to $2.75 a diluted share this By Matthew Lynch operating officer, said second-quarter Gromek said “white space” remained in year, up from a range of $2.50 to $2.66. sales were affected by U.S. retailers’ con- Shares of Fossil Inc. slid nearly servative inventory management prac- 10 percent in trading Tuesday after the tices and Fossil’s reluctance to ship to accessories maker beat second-quarter credit-challenged customers in Europe. Three Hartmarx Facilities Closed earnings expectations but missed on sales The company said it expects net sales Three former Hartmarx opera- the Hartmarx acquisition actually closed, and issued a weak third-quarter outlook. in the current quarter to decrease be- tions were shuttered on Friday because sources said on Tuesday. Modifications For the three months ended July 4, the tween 6 and 9 percent without adjusting they weren’t part of the assets picked up were made after the owners uncovered Richardson, Tex.-based firm’s net income for currency effects. It estimates earnings by new owners Emerisque Brands and irregularities in the firm’s cash accounts fell 33.9 percent to $16.6 million, or 25 per share in the period will be between SKNL North America. in the days before the closing. cents a diluted share, from $25.1 million, 38 cents and 42 cents. Analysts had been The two factories are the Seaford Sources familiar with those last-min- or 36 cents a share, a year ago. expecting third-quarter EPS of 46 cents Clothing Co. plant in Rock Island, Ill., ute discussions said the former Hartmarx Sales in the quarter fell 10.6 percent on average. and the Hart Schaffner Marx plant fa- operating company was supposed to have to $315.9 million from $353.2 million. Fossil is anticipating a possible re- cility in Anniston, Ala. About 300 work- informed employees about the plant shut- Analysts polled by Yahoo Finance had turn to positive sales figures in the fourth ers lost their jobs at Rock Island, which downs, as required by the bankruptcy expected earnings of 20 cents a share quarter when it expects EPS of 74 cents sources said was open just a few days a process. That never happened, sources on revenues of $321 million, on average. to 80 cents on net sales that will be flat to week. The number of workers affected said, and Hartmarx didn’t make its pay- Shares of Fossil fell $2.65, or 9.6 percent, 3 percent better than a year earlier. at the plants facility was 175. roll on Friday. Emerisque and SKNL to close at $25.07. In the first half of the year, the watch Also closed was the shirt factory in were left scrambling over the weekend to On a call with investors, chief execu- and leather goods maker’s net income Hamilton, Ontario, part of the compa- ensure employees got their paychecks. tive officer Kosta Kartsotis attributed the fell 38.7 percent to $33.9 million, or 51 ny’s Canadian Coppley division, where The new firm, Hartmarx Operating better-than-expected profits to gains in cents a share, from $55.4 million, or 80 50 jobs were lost. Co. LLC, includes a head count of 2,400 Fossil’s direct-to-consumer channel, ex- cents a share, in 2008. Sales in the six Initially, Rock Island was set to remain workers. Officials at Hartmarx couldn’t pense management and favorable foreign months slid 9.9 percent to $638.9 million open, but the asset purchase agreement be reached for comment Tuesday. currency rates. from $709.4 million in the comparable was changed Thursday, the night before — V.M.Y. Michael Barnes, president and chief 2008 period. WWD, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2009 15 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS Louis Vuitton ALFANI RED TALES: Ne-Yo, the new Thiessen and Gap creative director Patrick Robinson turned out to the packed Macy’s pitchman for the retailer’s space formerly home to Robert Clergerie. “This is where I’m from, so it’s Names McLeod contemporary Alfani Red collection, home to me, and the store on Robertson is such a great fit for the city and hit New York’s Metropolitan Pavilion the new denim launch,” Robinson said. To Creative Post on Tuesday to talk up the partnership. Good Charlotte’s Joel Madden endured the heat generated by the throngs The brand’s new black-and-white ads while playing DJ for the evening before leaving to join his belle, Nicole Richie, Faye McLeod has featuring the R&B singer were unveiled and friends at Chateau Marmont, where Sienna Miller, Kirsten Dunst and joined Louis Vuitton as cre- at the press conference. The campaign Keanu Reeves also turned out for what happened to be a busy night at the ative director of visual mer- was shot by Walter Chin in Prague, to celeb-friendly hotel. A private K-Swiss dinner with Simpson-Wentz, Topher chandising. accommodate Ne-Yo’s filming schedule Grace, Katie Cassidy and Jessica Stroup was also under way at the hotel, where In this role, she is over- on “Red Tails,” a movie about the guests used their appetizers to fend off paparazzi trying to snap photos over seeing the direction of Tuskegee Airmen. “I play a young fighter the hotel gate. In return for their trouble, each attendee made off with a pair global creative for store pilot named Smoky from Alabama,” of the relaunched classic sneaker — a popular item, as Dunst, while not a windows and special proj- said Ne-Yo. “The film is about the guest at the dinner, requested a pair of her own. ects. Most recently, McLeod struggle of African-Americans to be served as visual director for accepted by the Air Force during World STERLING SIMS: Molly Sims’ next gig won’t be on NBC. The star is launching Jigsaw. she exited that post War II, even as we help protect America a costume jewelry collection with HSN in November called Grayce. The line last month. from the Germans.” The movie, which is inspired by Art Deco design from the Twenties, “understated glamour” at Louis Vuitton, McLeod is produced by George Lucas and co- reminiscent of the Sixties and her love for travel and photography. Grayce is based in Paris and reports stars Terrence Howard and Cuba Gooding includes earrings, cuffs and bracelets. to séverine Merle. photo by robert mitra robert by photo Jr., is Ne-Yo’s second big screen role, despite a 23 percent de- Ne-Yo and the Alfani Red campaign. following 2007’s “Stomp the Yard.” NICOLE’S NEWEST BABY: Speaking of Nicole Richie, she unveiled her first cline in profits for the first maternity line, Nicole for A Pea in the Pod, at the chain’s Beverly Drive half of the year, LVMh Moët MIDTOWN MOVE: Jason Wu, who showed his fall collection at Exit Art on 10th boutique Thursday night, revealing it took just four months from conception hennessy Louis Vuitton ex- Avenue in February, is going for a more classic — and central — venue this to retail rollout. “I was really excited to do this line because I think the pects to gain market share fashion week. On Sept. 11, Wu will present his spring show on the second pregnant body is beautiful and I know how difficult it is to change your whole in 2009 because of prod- floor of the St. Regis Hotel. For the first time, Wu also is working with Alex wardrobe just because you’re pregnant,” said Richie, who is expecting her uct launches, expansion de Batek of Bureau Betak on the show’s production and decor — but don’t second child this fall. “I wanted to make pieces that I felt didn’t look like in new markets and cost expect the White House to inspire the look for one of Michelle Obama’s classic maternitywear.” The 14-piece collection, ranging from $48 to $148 containments. The Louis favorite designers. “For our first collaboration, Alex and I wanted to stage at retail for black jersey leggings, skirts and tank tops, silk tops and paisley Vuitton label has been a the show in a New York institution that had a distinct personality,” Wu said. tunics and maxidresses, filled a void for the Philadelphia-based maternity relative bright spot. The “We chose the St. Regis because its original historic decor has been so retailer. “This celebrity collaboration is a first, but we’ve been thinking French luxury group re- beautifully preserved and served as the perfect canvas for us to bring totally about it for awhile with the pregnant celebrities getting so much attention,” ported fashion and leather foreign elements into the space. The stark juxtaposition between the classic said Rebecca Matthias, president and chief creative officer of A Pea in the goods sales grew 8 percent and ultramodern represents the brand’s DNA perfectly.” Pod. “I think Nicole’s style is very California, so it’s a perfect summer and to 2.98 billion euros, or $4 transitional launch, and different from our other offerings,” she said, adding billion, due partially to the GAP GETS JUMPING: Gap’s 1969 pop-up store on Los Angeles’ Robertson the collection may continue based on initial sales. That would make Richie a strength of Louis Vuitton Boulevard was a hot spot — both literally and figuratively — on a balmy busy woman: In addition to her House of Harlow 1960 costume jewelry line, bags and luggage. Thursday night when Halle Berry, Ashlee Simpson-Wentz, Molly Sims, Tiffani she also is designing a clothing and shoe line launching next spring. — Rosemary Feitelberg

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise. West Menswear manufacturer needs finan- PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Fashion District B’way/7th Ave cial arm. If you have an infrastructure Manhattan-based Children’s manufac- 149 W. 36th. Entire Floor 4000 SF perfect in place and can handle 8 million in turer seeks Production Coordinator. for showroom/design /open space. Full sales in the next 12 months with spe- Duties include extensive communica- height windows and wood floors. Direct cialty stores with large markups, we tion with overseas factories, agents, SALES EXECUTIVE electric. Call leasing agent - have a nationwide sales force, design etc. Track production, delivery status, Premier contemporary women’s designer SALES REP Newmark Knight Frank. team, manufacturing and collections data entry update. Send tech packs to brand which distributes domestically Est’d co is looking for New York junior Ken Kronstadt (212) 302-3652 in place. Have signed license agree- factories, coordinate trim approvals, & internationally to dpmt & specialty sales rep that must have strong relation- SALESPERSON [email protected] ment with well known entertainer. care labels, hangers, etc. Monitor test- shops seeking a committed whole sale ships with major retailers. Experience in WANTED NOW! Currently have 1.5 million in backlog ing. Maintain and present weekly ship- sales executive w/a min of 5 yrs exp, managing accounts extremely important. Well established manufac- orders. If interested call 551-580-4956 ping reports. Minimum 3-5 years ability to travel, must have great comm Fax resume to 323 375 0117 Att. Chau experience. Proficient in MS-Excel skills & work w/diligence. Email resumes Or email: [email protected] turer company looking for and Outlook. Salary commensurate & 3 pro references to: [email protected] both a Junior, and a with experience. Send resume to: Contemporary salesperson. [email protected] Must have strong relation- ships with accounts and Purchasing Manager ready to get orders. Please Industry leading NY/NJ accessory e-mail resume to: importer requires component Purch [email protected] Mgr to oversee a very busy dept. Must be organized, hands on exp. in fast As if business was not tough enough, turn mfg in China and sales oriented now we have to worry about getting with 5-10 years industry exp. Excellent new lenders! If this is your problem MERCHANDISER – GRAPHIC TEES comp for right person. E-mail resume and you need advice as well as someone Leading int’l manufacturer seeking exp’d to: [email protected] who is close to these financial institutions. graphic tee merchant to lead direction, STORE MANAGER Please call 516 353 6244. concept & design for mass market & Contemporary retailer seeks experienced candidate to open and manage Spaces All matters are confidential. mid-tier accounts. Req: Independent drive, great presentation skills, motivating all aspects of new retail boutique in the meatpacking district. design & sales teams, 10+ yrs exp. NY SALESPERSON or LA based. Email resumes to: Salesperson needed for established Minimum 3 yrs management and clienteling experience within the contem- PATTERN/SAMPLES [email protected] line of Missy/Plus knit tops, Denim & porary market. COMMERCIAL Garment center location. Professional dresses. Must have minimum 7 years /Reliable Quality. Men & women all style. experience and current buyer contacts. REAL ESTATE Low Cost. Small production. 212-563-3331 Please send resume to: Please forward resume to: [email protected] MERCHANDISER...... TO $60K [email protected] Home Fashion exp A + prices, samples Allen Platt SRI Search 212-465-8300 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, [email protected] PRODUCTIONS SALES PRO All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Established updated novelty top vendor Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Product Fabric Coordinator looking for seasoned JR. sales pro to Large children’s wear co seeks product launch new division. Key contacts development coord who understands necessary. Please email resume to: 8th Ave #555 NYC fabric construction, able to work [email protected] 24/7 Attendant Lobby PATTERNS, SAMPLES, w/overseas suppliers & deliver fabrics on 511 - 3108 sqft. @ $26.95 per sqft. time. Sourcing exp preferred. Must have Beautifully Renovated, light, high ceil- PRODUCTIONS exp w/Walmart, CTL & Retail Link. Excel SPEC TECH $45-55K Top Industry Executive ing. Frt & pass. elevator. Owner 212- Full service shop to the trade. req’d, Illustrator a+. Fax/email resume att: Work with Domestic factories on looking for company that wants long 695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Mark: 212.967.8631 / [email protected] QC 1st samples. Illus/Photo. term growth: Well connected at top [email protected] or 212-947-3400 management. Please call 609 519 1399