Issue 106 June - July 2018 FREE please take one the Drinker

Inside: Oxford Beer Week reviewed; Two departures in Witney; Black Country Minibus Trip; Church Hanbrewery; plus all the regular features, and brewery news

The free newsletter of the Oxford and White Horse Branches of CAMRA www.oxford.camra.org.uk www.whitehorsecamra.org.uk June - July 2018 106 106 June - July 2018

FRONT COVER PICTURE : The Plough in Wolvercote, as visited by Pete Flynn. Read about it on page 14. Welcome ...to a not-so-different CAMRA, and why we all need CHAPS SO THE BIG CAMRA vote has hobby horse to decry the anti- come and gone, bringing some alcohol lobby, which has necessary changes to our become relentless that it has got constitution but failing, by a some landlords seriously small margin, to establish our worried. When our publican organisation as the champion of columnist Paul Silcock talks in The Oxford Drinker is the newsletter all pub goers, whatever they this edition about opening a fruit of the Oxford and White Horse might drink. smoothie bar, I’m not sure he’s branches of CAMRA, the Campaign joking! for Real Ale. The national papers greeted this 5000 copies are distributed free of news with headlines such as The most ridiculous thing I’ve charge to across the two “Trouble Brewing”, predicting seen so far from dear old Nanny branches’ area, including Oxford, that modernisers might cut up State is from that inferior outfit Abingdon, Witney, Faringdon, Cambridge University. One Eynsham, Kidlington, Bampton, their membership cards as we’re Wheatley and Wantage and most of not going to embrace quality David Spiegelhalter, Winton the villages in between. beers however they might be professor for the public served, including keg. But understanding of risk (who funds PDF downloads of past issues are frankly, as you will read shortly, these people – surely not available at the Oxford CAMRA taxpayers?), has published a webiste, www.oxford.camra.org.uk . I’m more concerned about CHAPS. paper in The Lancet arguing that Editorial team: over the age of 40, every drink A 75% majority of those who you have above the very low Editor: Dave Richardson “safe drinking” limit cuts your life [email protected] voted – and there were 18,000 of us – was needed to achieve expectancy by 30 minutes. Advertising: Tony Goulding this change, but only 72% voted [email protected] in favour meaning the proposal I’ve never been any good at Tony: 07588 181313 was narrowly lost. Although it maths, but I reckon that as I Layout/Design: Matt Bullock was agreed that CAMRA turned 40 some years ago, then

Valuable contributions have been festivals can serve non-real ale if that was true I should have received for this issue from Richard including keg if they so wish, that been dead long ago. So my life Queralt, Dita Kolomeyevova, Paul won’t be happening at our expectancy could be reduced – Silcock, Dick Bosley, Michael Oxford festival in November. bring it on, if that means not Cadilhac, Dennis Brown, Tony ending up in a care home. With Goulding, Pete Flynn, and Graham Personally I backed the change, care home providers going bust Shelton. Photographs for Black as although I don’t drink much and Brexit threatening their Country article by Michael Sibbald. keg beer myself, I recognise that already perilous supply of staff, that would suit me just fine. Please send contributions to the nearly all breweries are now editor at the above email address. making quality keg ale and lager and we should respond to that The problem with this sort of Pub news can be sent to trend. Who would have thought thing is that while there might be [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk that would ever a serious message in there, it The views expressed in this brew a lager, but it is as you can only encourages most people to publication are those of the individual read in this edition. Although disregard it. My own CHAP contributors and not necessarily cask ale sales overall are falling, includes continuing to drink beer, those of Oxford or White Horse as with all beer sales, you have as you might have guessed. Branches of CAMRA, or of CAMRA Limited. only to look around at the huge choice of real ale everywhere to As ever, your news, views and Printed by MRD Digital Print know that it is safe. contributions to the Oxford www.mrddigitalprint.com Drinker are welcome – just drop On to CHAPS then – not male me a line. persons of any persuasion, but DAVE RICHARDSON Care Home Avoidance Plans. Now I’m getting back on my June - July 2018 106

BELOW : The Beacon Hotel (upper) and the Britannia (lower) RIGHT: The Beacon itself (built 1846) on the pub sign, and inside Fixed Wheel Brewery Back to Photographs by Michael Sibbald Black Dave Richardson joins a branch minibus tour to the renowned Black Country in the West Midlands

MY ONLY PREVIOUS “drinking” visit to the Black Country was in 2014, so I welcomed the opportunity of a return match. It’s not unusual to come across another CAMRA group as you go around, such is the Black Country’s popularity.

First stop was a pub that I must have passed hundreds of times on the train, but never knew existed as it sits right by the viaduct on which the former Wolverhampton High Level station was built. Since 1972 this has been the town’s only railway station, but part of the listed Low Level station has now been adapted as a meetings venue. The railway which operated Low Level gave the pub its name – the Great Western .

Railway memorabilia – some of it probably valuable – covers the walls, but it is even more popular with beer drinkers than rail enthusiasts. This former National Pub of the Year is owned by local brewery Holden’s, but in addition to a full range of Holden’s beers it also serves several guests. Today’s choice included Black Country and Black Country Mild (I had a half of each, a great way

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to start the day), Golden Glow Sarah Hughes tower brewery conservatory with palms, and and Black Country Special from which was re-activated in 1987 the practice of all beers being Holden’s, plus Bathams Best having been closed for 30 served in jugs rather than Bitter, Enville’s Ginger (both years. This is home to the glasses. local); and Kelham Island Pale eyeball-rattling Dark Ruby Mild Rider and Cask Lager, from which, at 6%, is not a beer to It was hard to tear yourself Sheffield. get stuck into so early in the away from here but the whip day. Most of our group ignored was duly cracked after 45 You can really soak up the this advice – but at least I minutes and we moved on to atmosphere in this historic pub, sampled a half of its Pale another pub in this book, the and try the pearls of Black Amber (4%) before succumbing Britannia at Upper Gornal. This Country cuisine such as to Ruby’s charms. Sedgley lovely old pub is owned by Faggots, Chips and Mushy Surprise (5%) is also brewed on Bathams brewery whom I Peas (I didn’t). The Great site; while guests included an greatly admire for not Western dates from 1830 when unfined beer by Fixed Wheel embracing “trendy” names for converted from two cottages, called Lady in a Hat, Shiny the beers which are called, when it was open 18 hours a brewery’s unfined Belgian IPA simply, Best Bitter (a great pint) day, seven hours a week except Code Breaker (6.7%!), and Hop and Mild. Here we caught up “during divine service”. and Stagger’s Triple Hop (5%). with former Oxford CAMRA Apparently there were 170 pubs member Dave Hill who now in Wolverhampton by 1851, and The Beacon is named after a lives in the West Midlands, the beers sold hereabouts were local hilltop landmark, and it is settling down in the rear room the second strongest in England said many visitors start which has a rare surviving “to resist infection”. gibbering because of the example of hand pumps not altitude – I suspect another situated at a bar or counter, and With three distinct bar areas reason! This was one of three still used occasionally. plus a conservatory for food, the pubs we visited in the CAMRA Great Western is a handy book Britain’s Best Real The Perry family ran the stopping off point if travelling by Heritage Pubs , by Geoff Britannia from 1864 until 1991, train through Wolverhampton. Brandwood, as it has a layout with the rear bar being called With a Premier Inn next door, I long since swept away by many Sallies’ after the lady who ran it plan to make a night of it one hostelries of similar vintage. It from 1942. It really is a lovely day. has a small snug, a larger old place, and my eye was Smoke Room, small Tap Room caught by a press cutting on Our second stop, just 15 and more modern extension, display from 1967 which painted minutes away, was the with beer served from a hatch a picture of a long-gone wonderful Beacon Hotel at rather than at the bar. Other industrial age, with regulars Sedgley, home of the historic quirky features are a engaged in pastimes such as

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homing pigeons. What a gem, in the Heritage Pubs book. It is in a working brewery here with and with large baps costing only little altered since Victorian stacks of hops and malt, and £1.50 there was something to times with an odd enamel the mash tun and hot liquor tank soak up the beer with. ceiling, and a rambling layout in the room where you drink. including a Smoke Room, The stout has won a Regional We then moved on to what for “Ladies Room” and snug, plus a Beer of Britain award, but me was the only disappointment larger bar after the pub took however good the beers I miss of the day, the Black Bear at over the shop next door. The the pub atmosphere in such a nearby Lower Gornal. Why this clock that goes backwards is an place. Pretty, it ain’t. pub is in the Good Beer Guide appropriate touch, and so is the when others we visited such as organ with songbook open at Our final stop was at the the Olde Swan are not is “Love Divine, All Loves Waggon and Horses in beyond me, although the Excelling” -- I wonder if anyone Halesowen, run by Black Salopian Lemon Dream and plays it now? Country Ales and with no fewer Hereford Pale Ale (Wye Valley) than 15 hand pumps serving were totally acceptable. The We next went “off-piste” to three of its own beers plus house ale is by Kinver and cost Fixed Wheel brewery, one of many guests. What a way to only £3.10 a pint for a 5.8% whose beers was available at finish but sadly I didn’t, as I was beer, low prices for us stretched the Beacon . It reminded me a lured away to a very good fish Oxford folk being remarked on bit of Oxford’s Tap Social as it’s and chip shop up the road and all day. Greene King’s Abbot located in a grey and faceless didn’t manage even one drink and Abbot Reserve (6.5% -- industrial estate in Blackheath, before it was time to go. £3.75) were avoided by most of near Halesowen, although it is Reports were good, although the party. considerably smaller. The some commented that it had owners are apparently cycling been “gentrified” after a recent What let this pub down for me is enthusiasts and a fixed wheel refurbishment. I wonder. it has absolutely no bike was indeed on display, atmosphere, while the these being two interests that We made our way homewards overgrown garden is an eyesore often go together. after a splendid day out, and and the fusty carpets and décor some truly memorable beers not appealing. Not reasons to Six hand pumps and many and pubs. These were just exclude it from the GBG, I more taps were dispensing a some of the renowned agree, but there seemed to me range of quality beers and hostelries of the Black Country, to be more worthy ciders, but as all the cask ales so if you can find a minibus contenders….. such as the were light or golden (a driver like our own, ever willing Olde Swan (Ma Pardoe’s) in regrettable trend in my opinion), Tony Goulding (thanks Tony!) Netherton. This is a brewpub I chose the keg Blackheath then go for it. We might see you producing Olde Swan ales, and Stout at 5% which was cold but on our way around. it has been brewing them since not gassy. You really feel you’re 1863 apart from a break between 1988 and 2001. Unusually there is no branding on the pumps but a list on the wall, and I sampled a half of Original and a half of the excellent Dark Swan. Also available, all from its own range, were NPA (Netherton Pale Ale) and Bumble Hole, made with honey.

The beers are just part of the attraction, as the Olde Swan (also called Ma Pardoe’s after a long-serving incumbent) is also The Waggon & Horses in Halesowen

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the Oxford Drinker 7 June - July 2018 106 Farewell to brew for Jeff Drew…. Dave Richardson meets Wychwood’s outgoing head brewer and his successor, Jon Tillson

six, such as Whitbread and Allied.

“Breweries such as Ringwood and Wychwood saw a meteoric rise, and then under a Labour government we saw the duty escalator which allowed start-up breweries to pay considerably less duty. There has been a huge growth in small breweries and a development of beer styles that became mainstream, such as hoppy golden beers.”

Wychwood’s core brand is of course Hobgoblin, and the evil looking but rather humorous ABOVE: Jeff Drew (right) and Jon hobgoblin himself pre-dates the Tillson Marston take-over. His sneering face challenging lager drinkers JEFF DREW BRINGS down the King take-over in 2000 he to try the tasty ruby alternative curtain on a brewing career moved on to Brakspear in has fronted a highly successful spanning nearly four decades in Henley, and in 2002 joined campaign, although the new-ish July. A youthful 60 in Ringwood – each brewery Hobgoblin Gold, launched in September, he intends to go joined being smaller than the 2014, was introduced in travelling as he reflects on all last. response to consumer trends. the changes that have Wychwood even produces a transformed the industry during He was head brewer when hoppy Hobgoblin IPA, in bottle his time. Marston’s took over Ringwood and soon on keg. in 2007, staying on because of The job of head brewer is in Marston’s policy to keep its “Wychwood is still safe hands as it goes to Jon acquisitions local. When fundamentally a Hobgoblin and Tillson, a Witney man through Marston’s bought Wychwood in Brakspear brewery, but we and through, who started at 2008 he moved to Witney, have to consider what next?” Wychwood doing work becoming head brewer there in says Jeff. “Wychwood is by far experience in 1992 and has October of that year when the smallest brewery in the been second brewer since Jeremy Moss retired. Marston’s group by physical 2006. size, but the third largest in “The first really big change was production.” Jeff started with Whitbread, the Monopolies and Mergers once a major brewer and pub Commission beer orders of Other members of the group owner but now a hotel and 1989, which led to a major sell- include Jennings (Cumbria), restaurant company. He got all off of pubs and allowed pubs to Ringwood (Hampshire) and the his qualifications here before bring in guest ales,” he says. Eagle Brewery, formally Charles moving on to Morland in 1995, “This created opportunities for Wells (Bedford), its most recent producing Old Speckled Hen in regional brewers to get a acquisition. Marston’s “own” Abingdon. After the Greene foothold in pubs run by the big beers are produced in Burton-

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on-Trent, where there is also Jon Tillson explains: “Our team bottled range is extensive, the DE14 micro-brewery, and in here has over 100 years of including King Goblin (6.6%), Wolverhampton (Banks’s). brewing experience, and we still Black Wych porter (5%) and produce beers in the same style Imperial Red (4.7%). Some real ale drinkers have and tradition as always. We’re questioned Wychwood’s right to still a 150-barrel brewery, and Jon Tillson took a business be considered a local none of the materials we use degree and worked in independent brewery since the has changed. Marston’s is wise accountancy before returning to Marston’s take-over, especially enough to realise they need to Wychwood, and is relishing the as although Hobgoblin is keep us as a local brewery.” challenge of becoming head brewed in Witney, it is bottled brewer after 12 years as Jeff’s and casked by Marston’s in Hobgoblin has outgrown deputy. Burton. Following closure of Witney, however, and some of it Brakspear in Henley, the is brewed in Burton to Witney’s “I’ve enjoyed a wealth of original historic equipment was recipe and neither Jeff nor Jon experience through Wychwood moved to Witney where can tell the difference. and Marston’s, as you can soak Brakspear Bitter and Oxford Marston’s brings Hobgoblin up so much knowledge,” he Gold continue to be brewed. great marketing clout, and you says. “It’s a very sociable can now find it at many music business to work in, and But this criticism is wide of the festivals and other events through the Oxford Brewers mark, as despite its ownership nationwide. Alliance we can learn from each Wychwood remains a local other. The key thing is to carry brewery in the true sense – as Lots of seasonal and one-off on the Wychwood tradition of the 200 people who take beers are also produced at quality and consistency, but we brewery tours each week would Wychwood, current seasonals can never sit still.” agree. including Hooray Henley. The

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… and farewell to Martin at the New Inn Paul Silcock , MARTIN CORNISH , landlord of the New Inn for nearly 15 years, landlord of the retired in June from one of Gardeners Arms in Witney’s best real ale pubs. Plantation Road, North

The former Punch Taverns Oxford, continues his property is now owned by regular column Heineken’s Star brand, which had acquired many Punch pubs. A rarity in that it doesn’t serve food, the New Inn could be in for changes but Martin said he did not know who might take over.

Real ale has expanded greatly on Martin’s watch, from the two Tetley pumps when he arrived to six today. On the bar during a visit shortly before his retirement were regulars Side Pocket for a Toad (Tring Brewery); Sharp’s Doom Bar; we’ve had a good time and met Brakspear Bitter, brewed some great people, and I will around the corner at miss the live music.” Wychwood; and St Austell’s Proper Job. There have been few closures in Witney – among them the “Punch had a good range of House of Windsor, Robin Hood guest ales, but I was finding it and Butcher’s – and new micro- hard to sell stronger beers,” he pubs may be opening. Martin added. “Most of our customers said the opening of are older and want to stay all Wetherspoon’s Company of evening, so weaker beers have Weavers had not affected made a come-back. business, as it attracted a different clientele. “A publican’s life has become massively less rewarding since “I leave with some regrets,” he I’ve been here, and unless you added. “The sense of have a big food pub you are community is missing squeezed. The pressure to nowadays, and you can’t find keep prices low is huge, as people for a carnival float, or every supermarket has pallets darts and Aunt Sally teams. of beer that they sell for less Anyone coming into the than we can buy for. business now should beware of the costs and of their own “You can’t survive just on expectations. I’d like to thank weekend business, and on everyone who has supported weekdays you can struggle. But real ale, and not just CAMRA.”

10 the Oxford Drinker 106 June - July 2018 Gardeners’ World

I’M BACK , did you miss me? Hang on, don’t stop reading, let like they used to because they Probably not, which is actually me explain. The role of social have all become far more aware better than a friend who came media can be used very of appearance than we ever into the pub waving a copy of effectively by pubs to promote were. It’s simply because in the last issue of the Oxford themselves. Facebook pages their world it is now so easy to Drinker . “You’re not in it!” he are free, Instagram accounts share images of yourself. beamed. “Have they fired you?” are free, even quizmasters are I proceeded to serve him, which capable of setting up fan sites When I was that age, the last is almost as amazing as the fact for dedicated quizzers. With thing that would have crossed that I began that anecdote by only a little time and effort it’s my mind would have been to calling him “a friend”. (You know possible to keep anyone willing show the world a picture of who you are). But there you go. to follow you (on the myself. I didn’t, and still don’t, aforementioned social media believe anyone would have The Cannes film festival banned accounts, not follow you down much interest in a wild haired the selfie this year, and it’s a the street in stalker-esque heavy metal fan in an Iron little odd for a festival that is fashion) informed about what is Maiden T-shirt, and acne that essentially the celebration of going on at the pub right now or looked like it would need most images to go and ban the in the future. of the Clearasil in Boots to deal creation of more images, with, waving a pint of Wards particularly as the images are of Got a really exciting beer? Slap around (anyone remember that people they already have the a photo on the Instagram wonderful Sheffield brewery?) images of. Maybe they didn’t account of the pump clip. Got a want duplicates? Whatever their quiz night? Put the date on So the kids these days have so reasoning I wholeheartedly Facebook and let people know. much pressure to look good support their idea for whatever Got Morris Men dancing outside they’re not going to risk looking reason they imposed it. The your pub? Warn everyone with out of shape or unhealthy for selfie may well be the single a post on Facebook (only that selfie. They’ll happily take a largest threat pubs currently joking, Morris Men, your skill at selfie standing at the bar, but have to face. drinking is always welcomed.) just get a glass of water to go with their food. So what have I got against the selfie, then? Why am I agreeing At this point I should have a with Cannes and wanting it solution to suggest for this, well, banned? Because the purpose let’s call it an epidemic just to of a selfie is self-promotion. And create panic, but I don’t. How if you want to promote yourself, can you turn a generation away you’re going to want to look from the social pressure of good. This is where the problem looking good? Short of any with selfies comes in. better idea I’m gonna start stocking more non-alcoholic One of the fastest diminishing beer and open a fruit smoothie groups of drinkers is the 18-21 bar on the other side of the pub. age group, who aren’t drinking And somewhere in the middle I’ll start selling alcoholic fruit smoothies. All the benefits of fruit and all the fun of booze.

It’s not a great plan, but it is at least a plan.

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12 the Oxford Drinker 106 June - July 2018 Success for Oxford Beer Week THE SECOND ANNUAL Oxford Beer church repairs. On the Bank Week from 5-13 May built on holiday weekend the Perch in last year’s inaugural campaign Binsey held its annual festival by getting more pubs selling with its own beer brewed by local beer. Organised by the Hook Norton, called Hoplar. Oxford Brewers Alliance, a collaboration brew called Oxford Bank Holiday Monday belonged Special Bitter (OSB) was to Tap Social and its monthly produced with input from all comedy night, and six local members and brewed at brews raised money for charity. Shotover, and this was sold On the Tuesday BrewDog had a by 15 pubs. showcase with a few local brewers and their keg products. It was also available at the Witney and Banbury beer On the Wednesday at the Rose festivals, and all the money and Crown you had a chance to made from Oxford Special Bitter sample OSB and meet local goes to charity Helen & Douglas brewers, and a generous House. gesture by landlord Andrew Hall donated a firkin of OSB which Oxford Beer Week started on 5 raised £197. On the Thursday May with the eighth annual White Rabbit had a tap takeover Witney Beer Festival at St. with Loose Cannon Brewery Mary’s Church, where all 70+ where you could try Double IPA beers were sponsored by local as well as the range of cask and businesses and profits went for craft beer.

The Banbury, Kidlington (King’s Arms) and Castle Oxford festivals started on the Friday, with Hook Norton holding a mini -festival on the Sunday to conclude a memorable week. DITA KOLOMEYEVOVA

LEFT: Aaron Baldwin of Oxbrew, George Clarke of Hook Norton and Andrew Hall of the Rose and Crown, North Parade ABOVE: Dita Kolomeyevova of Loose Cannon

the Oxford Drinker 13 June - July 2018 106 Pete’s Pubs Branch chairman Pete Flynn goes wandering in Wolvercote

“GERIATRICS AND JUVENILES ” were as a hospice to serve the Wolvercote Green. Run by the two classes of people who aforementioned Nunnery. I landlord Tim Bowring for the used buses, I used to say when chatted to Heather Payne, who past 22 years, this is a popular I was a young man. Times have told me it is a Mitchell and local and family friendly Greene moved on and I’m happy to use Butlers pub and part of its King pub where Tim operates the bus especially if I’m going Premium Country Pub portfolio. under an old Morrells Brewery out for a pint or two, as I was on arrangement so is tied to the this occasion as I boarded the The pub focuses mostly on food GK range of beers, but free of Number 6 bus in Magdalen serving the needs of hungry lease. Street. tourists, and would never be classified as a “local”. The Three real ales were available – The last stop, and my beers available were Bobby’s Golden Ale (in memory destination on this perfect Brakspear’s Oxford Gold, of the late England football sunny morning, was the small Sharp’s Doom Bar, Fuller’s captain, Bobby Moore, and a village of Wolvercote which lies London Pride and Wainwright reminder that it’s World Cup to the north-west of Oxford. It Golden Beer. I chose the latter, year), Olde Trip, and Hardy and features the Thames path and which was perfectly acceptable Hanson’s Bitter. Being able to some interesting pubs, as well but not particularly interesting. rotate from a list of beers, Tim is as the timeless attractions of One resident of the pub and the able to alternate guest ales Port Meadow and the ruined last of his contemporaries is each week which adds to buildings of Godstow Nunnery. “Krug”, a rather handsome and diversity with real ciders also colourful peacock named after a available. Daughter Katy helps A 15-minute walk took me to champagne variety. to run the pub whilst Tim Caitlin 12th century Trout Inn, built of is on hand to look after the well- stone with polished flagstone Retracing my steps, I arrived at kept cask beer. flooring, originally established my next venue – The Plough at I tried the Golden ale which was very refreshing on such a hot day. The pub successfully operates on an even split between food and wet-led sales, and really caters for the locals and all kinds of clubs as well as a quiz night, occasional music and even theatre. The Plough has always been either first or second in the quiz league of Oxford, Tim is proud to tell me, with one contestant a past Mastermind winner.

Each year Tim helps to organise a charity/fun day which proves very popular with around 2,000 visitors enjoying music from three live bands and ABOVE: Tim Catlin and Tim Bowring at the Plough sponsorship provided by local OPPOSITE: Amanda Jones from the White Hart; the Trout businesses, all for a good

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cause. This year the event is My final stop, almost adjacent, strawberry liquorice finish. The being held on Saturday 22 July was The White Hart, one of other beers available were so why not turn up and enjoy eight pubs in Hook Norton 169, a strong and real ale, local fun, and the owned by the community. It’s a spicy beer with an ABV of (you Oxfordshire countryside in a superb pub offering three guessed it) 6.9%, and most picturesque setting? constantly changing real ales an Harviestoun’s Bitter and all-day breakfast on Sunday to Twisted, which I have covered My next stop, just over the coincide with the weekly before in a previous Pete’s railway bridge and returning to farmers’ market held in the pub Pubs article. the village square, was Jacobs itself with stallholders including Inn which is one of five Jacobs fruit and veg, a Polish I thanked Amanda for her time and Field pubs. This is a small Delicatessen, and Farmability and wished her every success family-run business from (eggs). as I headed for the bus stop. Headington, Oxford which The weather, the people I had started life as a delicatessen I introduced myself to manager, met and the beer had all made prior to expanding to include Amanda Jones, with whom I sat it a glorious day. restaurant-style pubs amongst down to talk about what makes its portfolio. The White Hart such an attractive venue for the locals. I The emphasis is very much on have to say that Amanda is quality food as evidenced by the vivacious, hard-working and name of Aubrey Allen as popular with locals and staff supplier of meat, and an alike; a real credit to Alastair Sawday sign in the shareholders who are fortunate window indicating inclusion in to have someone with such this popular guide to food pubs. passion running the business. The beer is provided by Marston’s, which owns the Amanda, who grew up in a pub freehold, and obviously environment, told me that the provides very favourable terms 15-strong shareholder undercutting any potential third community is more interested in party offering. how the pub is run, rather than the usual financial metrics Four real ales were available which govern a business including Wychwood Hobgoblin, undertaking. Listening to what Banks’s Sunbeam Bitter, Amanda told me I could see Brakspear bitter and Wainwright that there is real community Golden Ale. I chose Hobgoblin involvement with a sea shanty as it’s a particular favourite of evening, jazz kitchen, Irish mine and brewed in Witney music and a bike clinic all held possibly by one of my favourite monthly. brewers, Dave Carter. If you ever get a chance to meet Locals keep the pub going and Dave, usually on a tour of the the quality of the beer was plant, you will find his charm excellent as I downed a pint of and passion for all things beer Ossett Brewery’s Big Red, both fascinating and infectious. which had a lovely malty flavour balanced out against a

the Oxford Drinker 15 June - July 2018 106 106 June - July 2018 Another round of DD! Dick Bosley continues his pub walk along the Darcy Dalton Way

THE SECOND STRETCH of this long- distance footpath saw us having to walk away from Hook Norton – however strange that felt – to get to the A40 near Burford.

As before we walked through some lovely countryside of hedged fields and rolling hills, but sadly we got to The Unicorn in Great Rollright too late (by about five years) and The Black Horse in Salford too early (by about 5 minutes) for drinks.

However we did manage to find three open pubs for our refreshments. The Chequers in Churchill has a pub sign declaring this to be a “village pub”, but I must say that from Donnington – admittedly anywhere that takes three lines not my favourite. Donnington to describe a cheese and ham Brewery was started by Richard Branch toastie is a bit on the posh side Arkell in 1865 and has been run for me. However there were six by the family ever since. Diary beers available – Timothy However, returning to more Taylor’s Landlord, Hooky, important things, its Gold was in Saturday 23 June Sharp’s Doom Bar and Atlantic, very good condition and we Beer Festival Social Butcombe Bitter, plus HPA from were sorely tempted to stay 12 noon Wye Valley Brewery, that was longer. Social at the Cricketers Arms excellent. It was so good we Beer Festival, Littleworth. Short tried it twice. But the final half mile of walking walk from the bus at Wheatley. just proved to be irresistible, so From the pub courtyard there is we moved on to The Inn For Saturday 30 June a good view of the church – with All Seasons on the A40. The Beer Festival Social a tower based on Magdalen end at last! A choice of 12 noon College, and the interior on New Butcombe Gold and St Austell’s Social at Charlbury Beer Festival College and Christ Church. Tribute, together with friendly (next to railway station) . service and the temptation of a Getting near the end of the trek, very good fish specials menu, Monday 2 July revived our spirits. The Fox at Barrington has the Branch Meeting atmosphere and character of a 7.30pm traditional village local. It was At the Fir Tree, Iffley Road. once a coaching inn and has a Meet beforehand for a chat at the garden overlooking the River Chester Arms (6.30pm) and the Windrush. All the beers were Magdalen Arms (7.00pm).

the Oxford Drinker 17 June - July 2018 106 Pub News From the Oxford and White Horse regions

Appleton joint investment with Hawthorn sentence after admitting fraud Leisure to restore the former by false representation, after Plough Greene King pub with an faking a gas certificate for the A planning application has been emphasis on local ales and pub’s boilers. The new submitted to build two fresh, locally sourced food. leaseholders had to spend residential properties in the George said that the intention heavily to replace the unsafe garden. An Asset of Community was to move on from a failed boilers, which has caused them Value order is in place and pub with only a few regulars to plead for community help to locals are objecting as the and give the pub back to the keep the pub open. She was character of the pub will be lost. wider community. given a 16-month jail term It is regarded as a possible suspended for two years and community purchase. The re-fit includes church pews ordered to pay compensation or German-style benches, with and costs. Childrey full table service. The beer

Hatchet garden has re-opened and is a Kennington major feature. This pub has been closed for Tandem over a year, and Vale of White The bar has 10 hand pumps or The Greene King Hungry Horse Horse District Council has pub had a major refurbishment advised the owners that they taps with a rotating selection of real and craft beer from costing six figures in May, and are in breach of planning law by now has a wider range of real not applying for a change of use breweries all over the UK, including local suppliers such as ales including Doom Bar. or not opening as a pub. The village has a local action group Little Ox Brewery in nearby Freeland. À La Carte or sharing Milton in place called “Don’t Hatchet the Hatchet”, and it is listed as boards are offered, as at the Plum Pudding an Asset of Community Value. Jolly Post Boys, plus Sunday The pub (opposite, top) has roasts. been named South Oxfordshire Coleshill CAMRA’s Cider Pub of the Gozzards Ford Year.

Radnor Arms The pub closed in May and its Black Horse future is unknown, although it is Former landlady Dawn Neil has owned by the National Trust. received a suspended prison The Old Forge brewery at the pub has also stopped production.

Eynsham

Red Lion The pub – often previously regarded as the roughest in town – has had a major make- over and is now run by the tenants of the Jolly Postboys in Oxford who have done a good job over the last two years in turning this failed pub around.

Drew Brammer and George Harwood-Dallyn have made a

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July and then every Sunday afternoon throughout the summer, it offers Sunday Afternoon Chill sessions from 3pm with live music with various performers.

South Moreton

Crown Villagers’ attempts to buy the Crown as the ninth community- owned pub in Oxfordshire have still not been resolved despite raising £230,000 from over 100 shareholders. The former Wadworth pub closed in 2015, Oxford SOS spokesperson, Susannah when acquired by a property Wilson, said: “Progress does company which wants to Royal Blenheim seem frustratingly slow at the develop housing on the site of An £85,000 revamp has moment. We are looking into the last pub in the village. smartened up this real ale pub the various different options in which is owned Everards but terms of next steps: setting up a Wantage managed by Titanic, a Community Benefit Society with Kings Arms shareholder in White Horse a view to acquiring the pub as a Brewery which previously ran The pub is due to re-open at the community asset; and making end of June with six hand pulls the pub. A wide range of Titanic contact with potential beers is now available including and tanked beer/lager from XT. purchasers in order to try to It has been purchased by Oak the renowned Plum Porter, but open up negotiations with the White Horse and other Taverns. Peter and Trudi current owner. We are also Lambert, of renowned real ale independent breweries are well putting pressure on the council represented. Previous tenants and cider pub the Cross Keys in to enforce planning regulations. , will be the landlord and Mike and Jane Binyon have We have on-the-record moved on, and the pub is now landlady and plan to install a evidence that more than one micro-brewery later in the year. managed by Steve Hay. pub company has made a competitive offer for the pub Somerset lease, which has been Efforts to save the long-closed Two micro-pubs for advertised with Chancellors for Witney? Marston Road pub continue the past few months. It seems despite the apparent reluctance the current owner is not serious Oxbrew has confirmed plans of the property’s owners to re- about leasing the premises as a open it as a pub. The SOS public house.” to open a micro-pub in (Save Our Somerset) campaign Witney this summer, close to held another hugely successful Victoria Arms Market Square by the pop-up pub on Sunday 22 April, The Wadworth pub, with an Waitrose car park – a when it ran out of beer as over enviable location beside the development that comes less 300 people come through the River Cherwell on the edge of than two years after the doors of the Scout Hall. It has the city, has many special brewery opened in Church raised a large sum of money events planned this summer. Enstone. from donations from local On 23 June it hosts Marston people and also profits from the Family Fun Day, while live A second micro-pub might pop-up pub, and continues to music includes Georgia also open as the owners of the Siege of Orleans in liaise with planning consultant, Gardener on 1 July and Dale Ingram, a nationally Shakedown Prophets on 7 July. Carterton have also shown recognised expert on pub The Riverside Music Festival is interest. planning law. held on 21 July, and from 29

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Fancy a pint?

Graham Shelton , who led the community buy-out of the Red Lion at Northmoor, continues his regular column

Of course you do! On a sunny team. I can recommend their We also discovered that almost day and sharing with happy freshly home-made pork pies every week new groups of friends, there can be few too. ordinary people are clubbing greater pleasures than quaffing together to test out the cellar-cool drinks at your local. Some 30 of us gathered with feasibility of doing it Or can there? How about our good friends from CAMRA themselves: raising the money, supping your own specially- to share our knowledge and negotiating to buy the premises, brewed Community Ale in your experience, and hopefully to finding tenants, dealing with all very own pub? inspire others to embark on the the rules and regulations, same journey. It may not be the maintaining an old building and For some, this is just an alcohol magic solution for every single countless other unpaid and -fuelled dream. But not for the one of the pubs forced to close frankly quite onerous tasks. As shareholders of Oxfordshire’s every week through lack of for the tenants, these are the eight community-owned pubs, profitable business, but the benighted souls who have to who jointly own or lease the numbers of community pubs are put in the 100-hour weeks of bricks and mortar of their locals growing fast, and they are toil, and still come up smiling as and in some cases serve the beginning to look like a modern we walk through the door. They beer as well. trend. deserve our special thanks and support. You might remember that in What we discovered in previous columns I expressed Oxfordshire was the huge I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the hope of bringing all eight variety of offerings, some drinks all our pubs by name: my very Oxfordshire community-owned only, some both drinks and own favourite Red Lion in pubs together. We had a most food, and all catering for their Northmoor, the Abingdon Arms successful CAMRA tour of them own unique local clientele. And in Beckley, the White Hart in last year, and now I’m thrilled to can I say what an enthusiastic Wolvercote, the Seven Stars in say we have all met face-to- bunch community-owned pub Marsh Baldon, the Ampleforth face to map out how we can be people and landlords are? They Arms in Risinghurst, the Bull in stronger together and better are all strongly driven to make Great Milton, the Plough in able to serve the needs of our their pubs successful by doing Great Haseley and the Plough local communities. whatever it takes, whether it’s in West Hanney. Do, please, events, marketing, food, real ale visit them often. They can’t The Oxfordshire Community and, dare I say, other drinks as survive if you don’t. Pubs Network was born on 16 well. April 2018 at 7pm: a bouncing And so, what about having baby and a very lively little The truth, of course, it that it “your own specially brewed fellow. As far as we know, we needs all of those things in Community Ale”? Our friends at are the first of our kind in the fulsome measure. Some love Oxbrew are on the case, country. We held our inaugural their pubs so much that you can courtesy of Matt Todd at the meeting at the Abingdon Arms sleep there too, with increasing White Hart in Wolvercote, and I in Beckley and were able to numbers offering overnight hope to have more on that next sample their excellent local accommodation for those time. brews, skilfully kept and served evenings when it is best not to by Aimée Bronock and her drive home.

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BELOW: Steve Pitt at Clockwork RIGHT: Martin Godwin at the Wellington Arms; Steamtwon Tony’s Travels Brew Co at Eastleigh Tony Goulding ranges near and far

There were plenty of beer A superb community pub, the provided many other venues. festivals during May with the Plum Pudding in Milton, near Saturday all-day fest in St Didcot, served 20 beers, mainly The festival season often starts Mary’s church, Witney proving from the North country, plus in cold and uninviting weather, very popular with all 70 beers ciders in a very relaxed summer but never miss the village hall and ciders consumed in great garden ambiance. The festival at Merton, near summer weather. I would think programme read, no Watney’s Bicester, in late February. Some they need to double the size of Red Barrel or craft keg beer. rare and one-off brews are the church! I can’t wait till next The White Hart in Headington, served here. year when this super our current City Pub of the atmosphere is again created Year, never disappoints you, As part of our hobby of along with the more modest, and with 45 beers and ciders observing model and real cosy fest in nearby Church served in the wonderful back railway operations, a trip to Hanborough. garden, this was a great social Southampton was planned with event. editor Dave Richardson. The Perch in Binsey is well Already a good drinking city, the known for high quality food, but My super local, the King’s Arms lure of potentially six micro-pubs once a year a large marquee is in Kidlington, served 12 beers was a no-contest. erected in the idyllic Thames- and four very tasty ciders to side garden to serve 40-odd locals and a few visitors at its Opposite our first model shop in beers and ciders. The Banbury festival, with funds raised for Shirley Road appeared festival was as always superb, prostate cancer research. The Clockwork, which you might with 80 beers and ciders. I Castle, Hook Norton’s city think was a former clock repair managed to sample all the non- centre pub, had a fine selection or jewellery shop, but you’d be flavoured ciders and perries – of Oxfordshire ales to taste. wrong – it was previously a looking forward to next time. Oxford Beer Week also Chinese takeaway. Only opened last July, this smart micro is owned and run by Steve Pitt, a veteran of many jobs. One of three micros and many other good pubs around the “Bermuda Triangle” of Shirley Road, this is in a very diverse suburb of the city very much like our own Cowley Road.

What a great start, as Clockwork has a very smart café-bar style of drinking ambiance. The five hand-pulls served Upham’s Tipster, a 3.6% golden ale; and a stop-your- messing-around 4.2% New World hoppy ale from Fallen

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Oxford Branch Contacts:

Chairman Acorn brewery. Another local served all day, plus Sunday Pete Flynn brewery, Dancing Cows, roasts. If you want community [email protected] provided the beautiful spirit, then the Welly is a must. Chocolate Orange Porter; then Secretary from Broken Bridge, yet another We travelled a short distance by Steve Lawrence local brewery, came Tessellate, train to that railway and plane 01235 525436 a 4% pale ale. Finally, the only spotters’ haven, Eastleigh, [email protected] beer I recognised – Roaring close to Southampton airport. Meg, a 5.5% IPA from The Wagon Works, a typical Editor of the Oxford Drinker Springhead, which has been ’Spoons, provided a bargain Dave Richardson brewing for over 20 years. lunch along with a tasty Great [email protected] Newsome brewery Holderness Clockwork also serves seven Dark Mild. Over the railway White Horse Branch Contact: keg beers, three keg ciders and bridge, another very interesting [email protected] three boxed ciders, along with pub and brewery appears on some interesting spirits. Drinks the corner. Steamtown Brew Co Oxfordshire Trading Standards are served over a rather only opened last November, Service: splendid bar top salvaged from and sounds and looks like an Graham Hill House a long-gone building in the old American diner. Electric Avenue Quay area. This micro is a do- Ferry Hinksey Road not-pass experience. Food is served in a big way but Oxford does not detract you from a OX2 0BY The two other micros along choice of up to 14 kegs, two keg Tel: 01865 815000 Shirley Road weren’t open at ciders, two hand pulled ciders www.oxfordshire.gov.uk lunchtime, but a short distance and five real ales, including two away is the totally different from the on-site brewery, Barton Keeping in touch with Oxford Wellington Arms, a true 1860s- Bitter and Pacific. Branch: built back street community boozer. Renamed from the Manager David Mackie advised Get all the latest news and Swan back in 1975, this us that the kegs had become events, and share information Heineken-owned house is very popular and Fuller’s had about what’s happening in your managed by a very helped with the cellaring, hence area. To join send an e-mail with enthusiastic, passionate Martin London Pride was served along ‘subscribe’ as the subject to Godwin, with many years’ with two very tasty Cornish [email protected]@oxford. experience behind the bar. Orchards ciders. We sat in camra.org.uk comfortable first class seats Some good old-fashioned salvaged from a 1970s train To receive copies of the Oxford names appeared on the 12 carriage. Do visit the Gents to Drinker by post, please send A5 hand-pulls including see an alternative use for beer sized, self addressed envelopes Woodforde’s, with Wherry; kegs – the contents may remind with postage to cover 100g letter Wickwar, with BOB; and you of certain smooth-flow to: Harvey’s, with Sussex Bitter bitters! Oxford Drinker, 25 Chamberlain and Pale Ale. Four ciders were Place, Kidlington OX5 1SG very welcome along with some and we will send you as many very tasty basic pub food, issues as you send envelopes.

the Oxford Drinker 23 June - July 2018 106 Brewery Focus: Church Hanbrewery WHEN A BIG crowd of over 200 including the Blenheim and events. It has developed two people descended on an Abingdon food festivals and special beers for this, Teardrop industrial estate near Witney on Cowley Road Carnival this Pure Citra (a single hop pale ale a sunny Friday evening in May, summer. It’s nice to meet our at 4.2%), and Teardrop Bitter, a it marked the first open day and customers and talk to them session Irish bitter at 3.8%. another success for Church directly.” During Oxford Beer Week its Hanbrewery. keg beers were featured by Pint All Church Hanbrewery beers Shop, BrewDog, the Castle Everything about this brewery is are produced in bottles and Oxford and other pubs. unusual, from its name to the some are produced in cask or range of beers produced, and keg. The most popular are Ale Its motto is “cloudiness is the background of its owners. X, a 4.5% IPA, followed by purity”, and all ingredients are Brazilian-born couple Luciana Honey and Oatmeal Porter natural and sustainable. It and Christian Gyuricza (5.5%). Witty Bea is a 4.5% wanted to sell beer in reusable (Christian being of Hungarian wheat beer while Ze Braun is a bottles but can’t find strong descent) started brewing at 5.5% dark wheat concoction. enough bottles to re-use safely, home in Church Hanborough in but all its labels are made from 2015, but in October 2016 Even more eclectic are a recycled newspaper and moved to the New Yatt Smoked English Beer called attached without glue. Business Centre. The open day Rauk at 5%; the Indian Black was organised with a hog roast, Ale called Matt Black at 5.5%; Church Hanbrewery is a good Brazilian delicacies and live Red Beetter, an English red ale example of a very modern trend bands. with beetroot at 5.5%; and 1 4 – a small brewery using original Keeps, a French-style Bier de ideas with a focus on taste and Christian has a full-time job as a Garde at 6%. Less commonly sustainability, and selling management consultant in civil available are raspberry and wild through non-traditional outlets. engineering, whereas Luciana berry beers. Whatever it does next, you can is a lawyer by profession. They be sure it’s worth looking out came to the UK in 2003 and Church Hanbrewery now has a for. have three children aged 9, 15 mobile bar, Teardrop Bar, for DAVE RICHARDSON and 16, and set up the brewery with an eye on future employment as well as making some money out of their passion.

“In two years we have doubled production, and we sell everything we produce,” says Luciana, who does most of the brewing. “It is still hard for a small brewery such as us to get into pubs as the competition is so intense, and some competing beers are priced so low that it’s hard to match their prices.

“So we are interested in attending all sorts of events, ABOVE: Jean Glendinning with Luciana and Christian Gyuricza

24 the Oxford Drinker 106 June - July 2018 Brewery News

Hook Norton The west coast American IPA The hugely popular HopCat – Big Sur is a deep golden beer, which is now one of the best- “The rumours are true,” it brewed with Maris Otter and selling beers from XT in just a admits, as Hooky is breaking Crystal malts to provide a solid few months – will need a name with tradition by brewing its first backbone for massive additions change. Following a long legal lager, Trial #1 (4%). Brewed in of American hops. battle with a bar company in the pilot plant using a special Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA lager yeast, this first trial batch Specials include Red Card which claims worldwide delivers a crisp clean (4%), a ruby red ale with subtle ownership of the name, XT will continental style, not over spicy hop flavours celebrating instead be calling the 3.9% hoppy – but very drinkable. the festival of sport happening hyper hoppy beer HopKitty. over the summer; and Under Managing Director James the Boat (4.5%), a deep golden Clarke says: “I would never session IPA with juicy citrus have thought we would have monster hops. been brewing a lager, a real departure for us. But when I joined Hook Norton Brewery we didn’t have mobile telephones or the Internet, brewed three different beers, records were handwritten, and 90% of beer drunk in the UK was drunk in pubs. Times and tastes change and we like to think down here at Hooky we can do the same.

“What would our forebears say? I think they would chuckle, and acknowledge that we are in a different world today and when The beer will stay exactly the it comes down to it, it’s usually same and hopefully the new the occasion more than the name will prove just as popular. drink you’ll remember.” To mark the name change XT will also brew two stronger Vale limited edition versions, the street fighting alley cat, Bad April saw the grand opening of XT Kitty at 5.9%; and the utterly the new tap room and shop. feral Evil Kitty which will be as The tap room is open on XT will be back at the Great strong as it can get it! Fridays from 12-6pm and on British Beer Festival in August Saturdays from 12-5pm. with its own brewery bar, to The latest Animal beers from Brewery tours will again be showcase the core range of XT Notley Farm are Giraffe, an offered this summer and an and Animal beers plus special amber beer at 4.6% using a open day will be held in July – one-off beers brewed just for satisfying pairing of grapefruit check website for details. the event. Having seen the and chocolate; and Wolf Pale success of the foreign bars at Ale at 4.6%, brewed with the Vale is producing its first craft last year’s show, XT is keen to new Styrian Wolf Hop keg beers. Kölner Dom is a pale prove that British brewers can developed by the Slovenian golden Kölsch-style ale, crisp easily match the competition Institute for Hop Research and and refreshing with delicate from overseas and produce Brewing, and used for the very floral hop aromas from both something for visitors to get first time at XT. German and American hops. excited about.

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The Science of Beer

Dick Bosley gets a little technical on a visit to Tap Social Movement in West Oxford

BACK IN FEBRUARY Science I see it as a little bit less Bud shaking a can of beer and then Oxford, a charity promoting beer on earth. tapping the top so it didn’t froth science and enterprise, everywhere when opened, collaborated with Tap Social to Yeast: Apparently this is quite pouring shaken bottles of beer host an evening of beery based often taken into space because through filter paper with the science and a brewery tour. of its genetic similarity to same result and, my favourite, humans. Sadly it does get putting sultanas in beer and Tap Social is a social enterprise harmed by the radiation levels watching them float up and company formed in 2016 and in space but it can be repaired down. It wasn’t that exciting but works with day-release and using human genes. The good it did improve the flavour of the recently released prisoners to news is that zero gravity seems sultanas. help them find employment. It to be very good for produces a range of mainly craft fermentation, creating beers We then had a tour of the beers and has transformed an about three times as strong. brewery led by American head industrial unit into a brewery The bad news is that because brewer, Jason Bolger. All of the and very welcoming tap room “the bubbles of CO2 aren’t beers made are suitable for and café. buoyant”, the beer is very vegetarians as no finings are foamy. Very, very foamy. used. It always aims to have a We started with an entertaining gluten-free beer available as talk by Terence Eden about the So in essence, if you like very well as a “session” beer of possibilities of brewing beer in alcoholic, slightly cannibalistic about 3.5%. New World hops space. This may seem an bubbles with a hint of wee you are used in all the beers and the unusual aim but as he pointed could, no should, consider a relatively small volumes give out, space is very boring while career as an astronaut. Jason the chance to try some beer is not. Also as brewing is a newer flavours. He also wants fairly simple process, you can We then carried out a couple of to experiment with some sour look at the ingredients in turn to simple experiments such as beers using natural wild yeasts. see how possible it is.

Water: The main component of beer but sadly very hard to get in space. It costs about £15,000 for each litre taken up in a rocket and so the only practicable solution includes the use of filters following a process pioneered in Belgium under the title “from sewer to brewer”. Enough said.

Malt: Amongst the many and varied items taken to space on Elon Musk’s SpaceX rocket were some barley seeds and a camera supplied by Anheuser- Busch. It wants to check on things like germination etc, and

26 the Oxford Drinker 106 June - July 2018 Quick Halves... Home Brewers GL54 5AQ (near the Gloucestershire and The Oxford Brewers Group is Railway). your local home brewing club, offering activities and meeting This is a festival of real ale, real opportunities for home brewers food, and real friends and I know some of this might raise and craft beer enthusiasts family. For 42 years it has been the eyebrows – and possibly alike. Monthly meetings are celebrating award winning ales blood pressure – of some held on the third Wednesday of and ciders at a unique venue, CAMRA members, but I have to each month at the Chequers on Postlip Hall Barn and gardens, say that the beers I tried (Hop of High Street, Oxford, to discuss which is as authentic as the the Press and the award techniques and ingredients, and beer. winning Goodsize Eh?) were to sample the beers of your both excellent and not as cold peers. At the last meeting, The festival comes with live jazz or gassy as other craft beers I home brewers brought a variety sessions and a BBQ sizzle. You have tried. Also all the beers of brews including two stouts, a can soak up the atmosphere of produced are available as RyePA, an amber lager and an the barn with a pint, or picnic in bottled conditioned. English bitter. the gardens and share a brew with friends and family. It has also organised recently a visit to The Oxford Artisan www.postlip.camra.org.uk Distillery (TOAD) and a termly home brewing competition. Maidenhead Beer Festival Each competition focuses on a specific style, most recently a The Maidenhead Beer & Cider Trappist Single. Five home Festival returns to Desborough brewers took part in that round, College, Shoppenhangers paling by comparison with the Road, Maidenhead SL6 2QB on 11 of the previous contest, and Thursday 26-Saturday 28 July. all the attendees judged the Chris Brown, Borough Town beers for compliance with the Crier, will open the festival on style’s guidelines. The winner the Thursday at 12 noon, and a of that edition was John programme of entertainment Snelson, with his Flying and good quality food is now Buttress featuring Belgian being organised. pilsner malt and traditional Tap Social is well worth finding noble hops. The next www.maidenheadbeerfest. with the café open from 9.30am competition will take place on camra.org.uk/ -4pm on weekdays and 12-6pm 18 July, focusing on German on Sundays, and the Tap Room Weißbier. open 4-11pm on Thursday, Friday and Saturday and 12- To get involved, simply head to 6pm Sundays. The venue is the website and subscribe to also used for a variety of social the mailing list. events such as music, comedy www.oxfordbrewers.com and food. MICHAEL CADILHAC

PHOTO LEFT: The Tap team (from Cotswold Beer Festival left to right): James Bolger, Matt Elliott, and co-founders Tess The 42nd CBF will be held from Taylor, Paul Humpherson and 20-22 July at Postlip Hall, Amy Taylor. Winchcombe, Cheltenham,

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28 the Oxford Drinker 106 June - July 2018 Festival Diary Compiled by Richard Queralt Further details can be found on our website www.oxford.camra.org.uk Friday 15 - Saturday 16 June Cricket Green, Main Street, A4074 Wallingford to Reading Salisbury Beerex Fringford (open noon-11pm) Road Salisbury Arts Centre, www.fringford.info www.woodcoterally.org.uk/ Bedwin Street, Salisbury festivalofale.html 48 beers plus 10 ciders Friday 6 - Saturday 7 July Entry by ticket only Stratford-upon-Avon Beer & Friday 20 - Sunday 22 July www.salisburyartscentre.co.uk Cider Festival Cotswold Beer Festival Stratford-upon-Avon Racecourse, Postlip Tithe Barn, nr Friday 22 - Saturday 23 June Luddington Road, Stratford-upon- Winchcombe, Cheltenham Nor Lye Music, Real Ale & Avon 60 beers plus 20 ciders & perries Cider Festival 75+ beers plus 30+ ciders & Admission by ticket only – see North Leigh Football Club, perries website for details Eynsham Park, North Leigh www.stratfordbeerfestival.org.uk www.gloucestershire.camra.org.uk www.norlyefestival.com Friday 6 - Sunday 8 July Friday 20 - Sunday 22 July Saturday 23 June Beer on the Wye Tree Hotel Beer & Cider Cricketers Arms Summer Hereford Beer & Cider Festival Festival Beer Festival Hereford Rowing Club, Greyfriars Church Way, Iffley, Oxford Cricketers Arms, Littleworth, nr Avenue, Hereford 01865 775974 Wheatley 135+ beers plus 130+ ciders & www.treehotel.co.uk 01865 872738 perries www.cricketers-arms.co.uk www.herefordcamra.org.uk Saturday 21 July Hook Norton Festival of Fine Saturday 23 June Saturday 7 July Ales Tingewick Village Fete & Beer Haddenham Summerfest Held in a field off Clay Bank, Hook Festival Haddenham Community Junior Norton Recreation Ground, Water School, Woodways, Haddenham www.hookybeerfest.co.uk Stratford Road, Tingewick, nr (open noon—8pm) Bicester (open 1pm-11om) www.haddenham-beer- Thursday 26 - Saturday 28 July www.tingewickfete.co.uk festival.co.uk Maidenhead Beer & Cider Festival Saturday 23 - Sunday 24 June Friday 13 - Saturday 14 July Desborough College, Tackley Beer Festival Buckingham Beer & Music Shoppenhangers Road, Gardiner Arms, Medcroft Road, Festival Maidenhead Tackley Buckingham Rugby Union Club, 100 beers plus 20 ciders 01869 331266 Floyd Field, Maids Moreton, nr www.mbcf.camra.org.uk www.gardinerarmstackley.co.uk Buckingham 40 beers plus 10 ciders & perries Thursday 26 - Sunday 29 July Saturday 30 June www.buckinghambeerfestival.co.uk North Moreton Beer & Cricket Charlbury Beer Festival Festival Charlbury Cricket Club, Dyers Hill, Friday 13 - Sunday 15 July Bear at Home Inn, High Street, Charlbury Bastille Day Beer Festival North Moreton, nr Didcot Incorporating ‘The World Aunt Horse & Groom, Lower Heyford www.bear-at-home.co.uk Sally Open Singles Road, Caulcott, nr Bicester Championship’ 18 beers plus 6 ciders Friday 27 - Sunday 29 July 50+ beers, ciders & perries www.horseandgroomcaulcott.co.uk Cogges Beer and Cider www.charlburybeerfestival.org Festival Saturday 14 - Sunday 15 July , Church Saturday 30 June Woodcote Festival of Ale Lane, Witney Fringford Beer & Cider (with Woodcote Steam Rally) 30+ beers & ciders Festival Tidmore Lane, Woodcote, off www.cogges.org.uk

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status of “intangible cultural we find that these things are heritage”, marking it as best experienced in their home something to protect. Co-author context. We're delighted to of the book Joe Stange argues show you where.” that the Belgian style has since become “interchangeable” and The Good Beer Guide lacking context. Belgium includes information on breweries, beers and bars, Brewers from around the world explaining different styles currently produce a huge range including Flemish Reds, of “Belgian” beers, while their saisons, lambics and gueuze. It Belgian counterparts make also features the history of familiar IPAs with Americana. Belgian beer and its many Thanks to modern ingredient quirks, as well as sharing and technology, comprehensive advice on brewers are able to build their getting there, what to eat, where brews to match any profile from to stay and where to go. any place. Full-colour province-by-province “The beer world is full of maps and detailed city maps JUST HOW BELGIAN are the Belgian credible imitations these days, highlight over 800 bars, cafés beers of today? That is the but nobody yet has been able to and beer shops. It features question posed by the latest clone Belgian panache,” said hundreds of beers from over edition of CAMRA's Good Beer Joe. “Whether it's in the deep 240 Belgian breweries, and has Guide Belgium (£14.99). wood-and-patina brownness of been completely revised and an old estaminet, or in the updated. You can buy direct In 2016, UNESCO granted sparkle and resilient foam of a from the CAMRA online shop. Belgium's beer culture the strong, bottle-conditioned ale, The Pub History Society THE PUB HISTORY SOCIETY (PHS) Harvey’s pub with the feel of a Simple eh? was formed in 2001 to “promote village local, even though it is the heritage of British pubs and only half a mile from London Amongst the social events the people associated with Bridge. I was amused to realise being organised is a tour of them”. I joined last year and, on that it is a pub I used when, Oxford’s historic pubs, that a whim, decided to attend the many years ago, I was walking should be worth the AGM in May, which was held at the Thames Path. subscription in itself. For more the Royal Oak in Tabard Street, info go to London. The relatively small size of the www.pubhistorysociety.co.uk PHS meant that the AGM itself DICK BOSLEY Before I reached there I called had the feel – and humour – of into the George in Borough a CAMRA branch AGM. High Street – an old coaching Everyone there shared a love of inn on what was, at the time, a the institution that is the British principal route into London. pub, and there is no need for With connections with Dickens dictats from Head Office etc. and Shakespeare, the George The annual subscription was is now owned by the National held at £14 per annum, for Trust. There is a good range of which you get a knowledgeable changing – if pricey – beers, and interesting quarterly and drinkers are encouraged to magazine and access to all of wander through the various the society’s archives. Should bars, rooms and balcony. you prefer to receive the magazine on-line the The Royal Oak is a lovely subscription is reduced to £7.

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