39 St. John's Street, Devizes, Wiltshire, SN101BL
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39 St. John’s Street, Devizes, Wiltshire, SN10 1BL Documentary Research By Louise Purdy October 2019 Photograph of The Crown Centre, 39 St John’s Street, Devizes taken between 1971 and 19741 1 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - F14/500/21 - Wiltshire County Council (WCC) Planning Dept, Architectural or Historic Building Grant Applications to W.C.C. - The Crown Centre, St.John’s Street, Devizes- 1971-74. Copyright permission has been kindly granted by the Wiltshire and Swindon History Centre to reproduce this photograph in this report. 1 1. Introduction 39 St John’s Street, up to recently known as ‘The Crown Centre’ is a large grade II* listed building on a main thoroughfare linking Long Street with the Market Place in Devizes. Prior to that it was known as The Crown Inn and Crown Hotel. The Victoria County History of Wiltshire refers to its early history when it states Next comes the Crown, which occurs in 1538–44… It seems to have continuously occupied the same site in St. John's Street …until its closure in 1966. ….Its use in the 17th century by lodgers of good social standing suggests that it was then one of the best inns in the town…2 The building falls within the Devizes conservation area which was first designated on 26 November 1970 and extended on 27 October 1977. 3 Since the 18th century, the highway in front of 39 St John’s Street has been known as Castle Street, St John Street and St. John’s Street. Research has been conducted at the Wiltshire and Swindon History Centre in Chippenham and at the Wiltshire Museum in Devizes when preparing this report. Additionally, the current owner, Philip O’Shea has kindly provided a substantial amount of material relating to the history of the site during a visit to 39 St John’s Street on 11 September 2019. 2. The Emergence of the Town of Devizes The development of a settlement at Devizes began as the result of the building of Devizes castle by Bishop Osmund in c.1080.4 As the castle was built at the boundaries of the King's manor of Rowde and Bishop Osmund’s manors of Cannings and Potterne it became known as ' castrum ad divisas', the castle at the boundaries. The current name of the town of ‘Devizes’ was derived from this. 5 It is said that the first castle was a wooden structure which was destroyed by fire so a second stone castle was built in the 12th century. The new castle was described as a being one of the largest in Europe and the most important fortress in the West of England. Once the castle was completed a garrison was established along with a community of craftsmen to maintain the castle.6 The town of Devizes began to emerge and a market place developed in the Monday Market Street area close to St Mary’s parish church. By 1305, this area was part of the Old Port [which corresponds approximately with St Mary’s parish] which was the main urban area between the outer and inner town ditches. The remainder of the Borough of Devizes became known as the ‘New Port’.7 39 St John Street is found in the area formerly known as the ‘New Port’. 2 A P Baggs, D A Crowley, Ralph B Pugh, Janet H Stevenson and Margaret Tomlinson, 'The borough of Devizes: Trade, agriculture and local government', in A History of the County of Wiltshire: Volume 10, ed. Elizabeth Crittall (London, 1975), pp. 252-285. British History Online http://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/wilts/vol10/pp252-285 [accessed 8 October 2019]. 3 http://www.wiltshire.gov.uk/planning-conservation-areas [accessed 21 September 2019] 4 Wiltshire County Archaeology Service, The Archaeology of Wiltshire’s Towns - An Extensive Urban Survey - Devizes - August 2004 5 https://history.wiltshire.gov.uk/community - Devizes [accessed 22 September 2019) 6 WSHC, Local Studies Library - DEV.940 - Lornie Leete-Hodge 1983, The Story of Devizes p.11 7 A P Baggs, D A Crowley, Ralph B Pugh, Janet H Stevenson and Margaret Tomlinson, 'The borough of Devizes: Town, castle and estates', in A History of the County of Wiltshire: Volume 10, ed. Elizabeth Crittall (London, 1975), pp. 225-252. British History Online http://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/wilts/vol10/pp225-252 [accessed 12 June 2017]. 2 The early prosperity of the town was due its proximity to the castle, its shops and markets supplying its garrison. Edward H. Stone (writing in 1920) suggests the outer ditch of Devizes Castle, a fortification to defence its outer bailey ran behind the Crown Hotel when describing its route if plotted on a modern map.8 Following the decline of the castle other industries took over the town at different times including textiles, leather trades, metal making, brewing and malting. By the 17th century, Devizes was one of the largest towns in Wiltshire.9 3. Historic England - Listed Building On 9 April 1954, 39 St. John’s Street, Devizes was given a grade II* listing. The listing description was then amended on 19 September 1972. It has a listing national grid reference (NGR) of SU 0039561422.10 Details of the listing are as follows: 1. 1042 ST JOHN'S STREET (West Side) No 39 (Formerly listed as The Crown Hotel) SU 0061 3a/63 9.4.54. II* GV 2. Late C18/early C19. 3 storeys painted stucco. Rusticated ground floor with stringcourse at lst floor level supporting flanking Doric pilasters. Moulded cornice broken forward over pilasters and parapet with stone coping. Concealed gable end slate roof. 3 recessed sash windows, 4 panes wide on 2nd floor with block sills. 3 recessed early C19 marginal glazed casements on lst floor. 2 square windows, 3 panes wide, on ground floor and very wide central door of 6 vertical flush panels in plain surround with low pitch open moulded pediment on cut brackets and broken cornice. Balcony over, formerly in good condition, of diagonal bar pattern with rings and star ornament at bar junctions and double panelled corner standards with diagonal bars on balls with acanthus ornament. Nos 23 to 41 (consec) and the part of the National Westminster Old Bank in Market Place form a very fine group. 4. 39 St John’s Street in the 16th and 17th Centuries It is clear from records of a Court of Chancery case held at The National Archives at Kew in London that a tenement called the Crown existed in Devizes in 1538. The subject of the case was the detention of deeds relating to the property. The plaintiff was Elizabeth, granddaughter and heir of Richard Smythe and the defendants, Maud Trewe and Robert, son and heir of John Drewe (Trewe).11 8 WSHC, Local Studies Library - DEV.726 - Edward Herbert Stone (1920) Devizes Castle, Its History and Romanance p.158 9 WSHC, Local Studies Library - Wiltshire Record Society Vol 69 - The Churchwardens’ Accounts of St Mary’s Devizes - edited by Alex Craven p.xii and xiii 10 https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1252317 (accessed 21 October 2019) 11 The National Archives - C1/1062/50-54, Court of Chancery, Short title: Smythe v Trewe. Plaintiffs: Elizabeth, Granddaughter and heir of Richard Smythe. Defendants: Maud Trewe and Robert, son and Heir of John Drewe (Trewe) Subject: Detention of deeds relating to a tenement called the Crown in Devizes (Vyes), Wiltshire. 1538 - 1544 3 This primary source and the reference to it in the Victoria County History when referring to the Crown provide an explanation for ‘The Trust for Devizes’ blue plaque attached to the front elevation of 39 St John’s Street displaying the date of 1538 (see Fig.1). There is little physical evidence showing now of a 16th century or earlier building, but it is quite possible that the Crown referred to in 1538 was located somewhere within the current site of 39 St John’s Street based on research conducted by the Wiltshire Building Record. Fig.1 - The Trust for Devizes blue plaque displaying the date 1538 on the front elevation of 39 St John’s Street, Devizes It is known that John Trew (Drew) a clothier from Devon held the Southbroom estate in the parish of Bishops Cannings from about 1501-2.12 A deed of 1517 refers to John Drew of Southbroom clothier.13 In his will of 1521 he refers to Maude, his wife and a son called Robert.14 An abstract of title relating to an owner of the Crown Inn in the 17th century does suggest that the Crown Inn, the subject of our research was previously part of the estate of a descendent of John Trew (Drew), John Drew of Devizes (see later).15 12 A P Baggs, D A Crowley, Ralph B Pugh, Janet H Stevenson and Margaret Tomlinson, 'The borough of Devizes: Town, castle and estates', in A History of the County of Wiltshire: Volume 10, ed. Elizabeth Crittall (London, 1975), pp. 225-252. British History Online http://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/wilts/vol10/pp225-252 [accessed 30 September 2019]. 13 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 212B/2295, (1) Drewe, John, of Southbroom, clothier (2) Wyllowes, Henry, draper. Quit claim to an orchard or garden to the south of St. John's church in a place called "Wormecliff", Devizes, 9 September 1517 14 The National Archives - PROB 11/20/253, the will of John Drewe of Devizes 1521 15WSHC, Local Studies Library - Wiltshire Notes and Queries Vol 7 (1911-13) - Drew, of Southbroom 4 Edward Kite writing about ‘The Inns of Devizes’ in the Devizes and Wiltshire Gazette on 26 April 1900, refers to ‘The Crown’.