39 St. John's Street, Devizes, Wiltshire, SN101BL

39 St. John’s Street, Devizes, Wiltshire, SN10 1BL

Documentary Research By Louise Purdy

October 2019

Photograph of The Crown Centre, 39 St John’s Street, Devizes taken between 1971 and 19741

1 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - F14/500/21 - Wiltshire County Council (WCC) Planning Dept, Architectural or Historic Building Grant Applications to W.C.C. - The Crown Centre, St.John’s Street, Devizes- 1971-74. Copyright permission has been kindly granted by the Wiltshire and Swindon History Centre to reproduce this photograph in this report.

1. Introduction

39 St John’s Street, up to recently known as ‘The Crown Centre’ is a large grade II* listed building on a main thoroughfare linking Long Street with the Market Place in Devizes. Prior to that it was known as The Crown Inn and Crown Hotel.

The Victoria County History of Wiltshire refers to its early history when it states

Next comes the Crown, which occurs in 1538–44… It seems to have continuously occupied the same site in St. John's Street …until its closure in 1966. ….Its use in the 17th century by lodgers of good social standing suggests that it was then one of the best inns in the town…2

The building falls within the Devizes conservation area which was first designated on 26 November 1970 and extended on 27 October 1977. 3

Since the 18th century, the highway in front of 39 St John’s Street has been known as Castle Street, St John Street and St. John’s Street.

Research has been conducted at the Wiltshire and Swindon History Centre in Chippenham and at the Wiltshire Museum in Devizes when preparing this report. Additionally, the current owner, Philip O’Shea has kindly provided a substantial amount of material relating to the history of the site during a visit to 39 St John’s Street on 11 September 2019. 2. The Emergence of the Town of Devizes

The development of a settlement at Devizes began as the result of the building of Devizes castle by Bishop Osmund in c.1080.4 As the castle was built at the boundaries of the King's manor of Rowde and Bishop Osmund’s manors of Cannings and Potterne it became known as ' castrum ad divisas', the castle at the boundaries. The current name of the town of ‘Devizes’ was derived from this. 5

It is said that the first castle was a wooden structure which was destroyed by fire so a second stone castle was built in the 12th century. The new castle was described as a being one of the largest in Europe and the most important fortress in the West of England. Once the castle was completed a garrison was established along with a community of craftsmen to maintain the castle.6 The town of Devizes began to emerge and a market place developed in the Monday Market Street area close to St Mary’s parish church. By 1305, this area was part of the Old Port [which corresponds approximately with St Mary’s parish] which was the main urban area between the outer and inner town ditches. The remainder of the Borough of Devizes became known as the ‘New Port’.7 39 St John Street is found in the area formerly known as the ‘New Port’.

2 A P Baggs, D A Crowley, Ralph B Pugh, Janet H Stevenson and Margaret Tomlinson, 'The borough of Devizes: Trade, agriculture and local government', in A History of the County of Wiltshire: Volume 10, ed. Elizabeth Crittall (London, 1975), pp. 252-285. British History Online http://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/wilts/vol10/pp252-285 [accessed 8 October 2019]. 3 http://www.wiltshire.gov.uk/planning-conservation-areas [accessed 21 September 2019] 4 Wiltshire County Archaeology Service, The Archaeology of Wiltshire’s Towns - An Extensive Urban Survey - Devizes - August 2004 5 https://history.wiltshire.gov.uk/community - Devizes [accessed 22 September 2019) 6 WSHC, Local Studies Library - DEV.940 - Lornie Leete-Hodge 1983, The Story of Devizes p.11

7 A P Baggs, D A Crowley, Ralph B Pugh, Janet H Stevenson and Margaret Tomlinson, 'The borough of Devizes: Town, castle and estates', in A History of the County of Wiltshire: Volume 10, ed. Elizabeth Crittall (London, 1975), pp. 225-252. British History Online http://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/wilts/vol10/pp225-252 [accessed 12 June 2017].

The early prosperity of the town was due its proximity to the castle, its shops and markets supplying its garrison.

Edward H. Stone (writing in 1920) suggests the outer ditch of Devizes Castle, a fortification to defence its outer bailey ran behind the Crown Hotel when describing its route if plotted on a modern map.8

Following the decline of the castle other industries took over the town at different times including textiles, leather trades, metal making, brewing and malting. By the 17th century, Devizes was one of the largest towns in Wiltshire.9 3. Historic England - Listed Building

On 9 April 1954, 39 St. John’s Street, Devizes was given a grade II* listing. The listing description was then amended on 19 September 1972. It has a listing national grid reference (NGR) of SU 0039561422.10

Details of the listing are as follows:

1. 1042 ST JOHN'S STREET (West Side)

No 39 (Formerly listed as The Crown Hotel) SU 0061 3a/63 9.4.54.

II* GV

2. Late C18/early C19. 3 storeys painted stucco. Rusticated ground floor with stringcourse at lst floor level supporting flanking Doric pilasters. Moulded cornice broken forward over pilasters and parapet with stone coping. Concealed gable end slate roof. 3 recessed sash windows, 4 panes wide on 2nd floor with block sills. 3 recessed early C19 marginal glazed casements on lst floor. 2 square windows, 3 panes wide, on ground floor and very wide central door of 6 vertical flush panels in plain surround with low pitch open moulded pediment on cut brackets and broken cornice. Balcony over, formerly in good condition, of diagonal bar pattern with rings and star ornament at bar junctions and double panelled corner standards with diagonal bars on balls with acanthus ornament.

Nos 23 to 41 (consec) and the part of the National Westminster Old Bank in Market Place form a very fine group.

4. 39 St John’s Street in the 16th and 17th Centuries

It is clear from records of a Court of Chancery case held at The National Archives at Kew in London that a tenement called the Crown existed in Devizes in 1538. The subject of the case was the detention of deeds relating to the property. The plaintiff was Elizabeth, granddaughter and heir of Richard Smythe and the defendants, Maud Trewe and Robert, son and heir of John Drewe (Trewe).11

8 WSHC, Local Studies Library - DEV.726 - Edward Herbert Stone (1920) Devizes Castle, Its History and Romanance p.158 9 WSHC, Local Studies Library - Wiltshire Record Society Vol 69 - The Churchwardens’ Accounts of St Mary’s Devizes - edited by Alex Craven p.xii and xiii 10 https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1252317 (accessed 21 October 2019) 11 The National Archives - C1/1062/50-54, Court of Chancery, Short title: Smythe v Trewe. Plaintiffs: Elizabeth, Granddaughter and heir of Richard Smythe. Defendants: Maud Trewe and Robert, son and Heir of John Drewe (Trewe) Subject: Detention of deeds relating to a tenement called the Crown in Devizes (Vyes), Wiltshire. 1538 - 1544

This primary source and the reference to it in the Victoria County History when referring to the Crown provide an explanation for ‘The Trust for Devizes’ blue plaque attached to the front elevation of 39 St John’s Street displaying the date of 1538 (see Fig.1). There is little physical evidence showing now of a 16th century or earlier building, but it is quite possible that the Crown referred to in 1538 was located somewhere within the current site of 39 St John’s Street based on research conducted by the Wiltshire Building Record.

Fig.1 - The Trust for Devizes blue plaque displaying the date 1538 on the front elevation of 39 St John’s Street, Devizes

It is known that John Trew (Drew) a clothier from Devon held the Southbroom estate in the parish of Bishops Cannings from about 1501-2.12 A deed of 1517 refers to John Drew of Southbroom clothier.13 In his will of 1521 he refers to Maude, his wife and a son called Robert.14 An abstract of title relating to an owner of the Crown Inn in the 17th century does suggest that the Crown Inn, the subject of our research was previously part of the estate of a descendent of John Trew (Drew), John Drew of Devizes (see later).15

12 A P Baggs, D A Crowley, Ralph B Pugh, Janet H Stevenson and Margaret Tomlinson, 'The borough of Devizes: Town, castle and estates', in A History of the County of Wiltshire: Volume 10, ed. Elizabeth Crittall (London, 1975), pp. 225-252. British History Online http://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/wilts/vol10/pp225-252 [accessed 30 September 2019]. 13 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 212B/2295, (1) Drewe, John, of Southbroom, clothier (2) Wyllowes, Henry, draper. Quit claim to an orchard or garden to the south of St. John's church in a place called "Wormecliff", Devizes, 9 September 1517

14 The National Archives - PROB 11/20/253, the will of John Drewe of Devizes 1521 15WSHC, Local Studies Library - Wiltshire Notes and Queries Vol 7 (1911-13) - Drew, of Southbroom

Edward Kite writing about ‘The Inns of Devizes’ in the Devizes and Wiltshire Gazette on 26 April 1900, refers to ‘The Crown’.

Next comes “The Crown.” In the reign of Philip and Mary the Devizes Corporation granted to tradesmen and others, for a small annual payment, leases for 21 years of the plots of ground between their houses and the King's highway, and in 1555 Thomas Hull, described as clothman, became lessee of a plot or parcel of the street or market place lying directly square in front of the inn “callyd the Crowne”, he undertaking to well and sufficiently keep and repair the same “as well with stones as pycheng or pavying,” at a yearly rent of 20d, payable to the Bailiffs.16

The lease in question has been found with a note attached possibly in the hand of Edward Kite (see Figs.2 and 3).17

Fig.2 - A note accompanying a set of leases dating from 1555-6 from the Mayor and Commonality of Devizes, each for 21 years relating to plots of ground in the public street or market place.

16 WSHC, Local Studies Library - Wiltshire and Devizes Gazette -26 April 1900 (on microfilm) 17 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 212A/36/2 -

Fig.3 - One of the leases dated 1555-56, referred to in Fig.1, granted by the Mayor and Commonality of Devizes. This is the 21 year lease granting Thomas Hull, a plot of ground lying directly square between the Inn callyd the Crowne and the public highway.

It is known that a Thomas Hull was a wealthy clothier who became mayor of the town and went on to become a Borough M.P. He died in 1576.18 It is unclear if he occupied the Crown Inn as well or was just leasing the piece of land in front in order to erect a market stall.

An examination of the Wiltshire Quarter Session Records dating from 1599 by the Wiltshire Archaeological and Natural History Society (WANHS) in 1881-2 shows that an inn known as ‘The Crowne’ existed in the town of Devizes in 1599. Nicholas Barret was stated as being its innkeeper. It is likely that this inn was on the site of 39 St John’s Street. Barret was one of nine innkeepers who obtained licenses for their establishments at the Michaelmas Session of the Wiltshire Quarter Sessions held at Devizes in 1599.19

Bradby (writing in 1985), does suggest that ‘The Crown’ rather than ‘The Bear’ was probably the chief inn in 1600. This was based on the fact, Nicholas Barrett [aka Barret] was already a burgess, later to be the Mayor and the Chamberlain’s accounts suggest his inn was often used for official

18 A P Baggs, D A Crowley, Ralph B Pugh, Janet H Stevenson and Margaret Tomlinson, 'The borough of Devizes: Trade, agriculture and local government', in A History of the County of Wiltshire: Volume 10, ed. Elizabeth Crittall (London, 1975), pp. 252-285. British History Online http://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/wilts/vol10/pp252-285 [accessed 16 October 2019]. 19 WSHC, Local Studies Library - The Wiltshire Magazine (publication of the Wiltshire Archaeological and Natural History Society), Vol 20, Numbers 58-60, 1881-1882, pp.327-329. It should be noted that the Victoria County History in 1975 interpreted the date differently referred to by the Wiltshire magazine as 1600 rather than 1599.

6 orders.20 Bradby refers by way of example to the election dinner and the entertainment of distinguished guests such as the Lord Chief Baron in 1610.

Cunnington (writing in 1925), provides quotes from municipal records for Devizes Borough from the late 16th century to the early 17th century relating to payments made to Mr Barrett.21

1595 Pd. Mr. Barrett for Wine at the Eleccon dinner, 2/7.

1610 Paide to Mr. Barrett for the L. Chiefe Barons charges for a supp & breakfast lying in the towne, £4 2s.10d.

1613 Paied Mr. Barrett for sacke & clarett wine at the last Countinge Daye, 6/9.

1614 Paide Mr. Barrett for Mr. Brewer & Mr. Davis at the vensione feast, 4/6.

Further to this Cunnington provides a list of mayors of Devizes Borough which confirms that Nicholas Barrett held the position of mayor in 1617.

Edward Kite (writing in 1900) provides more evidence from the Chamberlain’s accounts of the good fare provided by Mr Barrett to Devizes Corporation.22

1613 To Mr. Barrett for the Muster Master’s diet and his horsemeat.. £1 1 10

To ditto for wine and sugar which was given to the Lord Riche and Mr. Mitchell.. 5 8

Paied to Mr. Barrett for a supper which Mr. Maior and his brethren had at the King’s cominge .. £1 2 0

To ditto for wine and sugar sent to drink with the King’s Usher .. 5 0

Kite explains that James I visited and hunted several times in local forests and stayed in Old Bromham House as a guest of Sir Edward Baynton and Devizes Corporation lent various items for the King’s service.

Edward Kite continues with further extracts from the Chamberlain’s accounts

1614 Paide to Mr Barrett for Mr. Peter Vanlore’s supper .. £2 0 10

Kite explains that Mr Peter Vanlore purchased the disparked park of Devizes Park from the Crown.

On 4 July 1619, Nicholas Barret had passed away and was buried in St. John’s parish.23

In 1623, pressure was placed on the Mayor and Burgesses of Devizes by the Lords of his Majesty’s Privy Council to reduce the number of public houses. This was a national initiative in response to the need to reduce the quantity of beer and ale being produced and consumed in order to ensure the

20 WSHC, Local Studies Library - R DEV.940 - Edward Bradby (1985) The Book of Devizes, published by Baracuda books Ltd, p.52

21 WSHC, Local Studies Library - DEV.327 - B.Howard Cunnington (1925), Devizes Borough Annals 1555-1791, published by George Simpson & Co Devizes Ltd, pp.27, 46, 48, 53 and 60 22 WSHC, Local Studies Library - Wiltshire and Devizes Gazette -26 April 1900 - The Inns of Devizes, Past and Present (on microfilm) 23 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 1597/1, St.John the Baptist, Register: baptisms; marriages and burials to 1648 and Ancestry.com. Wiltshire, England, Church of England Baptisms, Marriages and Burials, 1538-1812 [database on-line]. Lehi, UT, USA: Ancestry.com Operations, Inc., 2017.

7 price of barley reduced so this grain could be purchased by the poor. The number of public houses in the Borough of Devizes was then reduced by 12.24

A stark judgement is made about the state of alehouses at this time.

… and for the most part places of disorder & entertainment of lewd & ill-governed persons and likewise to take a strict course & have a vigilant care, that in such Innes and Alehouse as shalbe allowed, the strength of Ale & Beere brewed or soulde be soe moderated and reformed, as that there maye be no vayne consumpcon of the grayne of the Kingdome, whereof this yere there is much scarity…

The Crown Inn appears to have survived this cull.

Cunnington refers to Henry Barrett, possibly the son or grandson of Nicholas Barrett when quoting from the Chamberlain’s accounts dated 1630 to 1631.25

Payd Henry Barrett for one quart of Sack and one quart of Clarrett to give to a Doctor that preached, 1/8.

It is quite possible that Henry Barrett had taken over as innkeeper at The Crown at some point after the death of Nicholas Barret in 1619. He then died and was buried in the parish in 1655. 26

A map of Devizes Park including the site of Devizes Castle has been found dated 1654 which identifies a building in St John’s Street as ‘The Crowne’ in close proximity to another inn called ‘The George’ (see Fig.4).27 The position of the building on this map corresponds approximately to where the site of 39 St John’s Street is found today.

24 WSHC, Local Studies Library - DEV.327 - B.Howard Cunnington (1925), Devizes Borough Annals 1555-1791, published by George Simpson & Co Devizes Ltd, p.70-71 25 WSHC, Local Studies Library - DEV.327 - B.Howard Cunnington (1925), Devizes Borough Annals 1555-1791, published by George Simpson & Co Devizes Ltd, p.88. 26 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 1597/2, St.John the Baptist, Register: baptisms; marriages and burials to 1648 and Ancestry.com. Wiltshire, England, Church of England Baptisms, Marriages and Burials, 1538-1812 [database on-line]. Lehi, UT, USA: Ancestry.com Operations, Inc., 2017. 27 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 1553/86H - “The Mapp of the Devizes Parke with the true Number of Acres therin Conteyned, finished the eight Day of Aprill in the yeare of Our Lord 1654”. Surveyed by Edward May Scale: 18 in. to one mile (1:3520) 56 x 76cm. Vellum; ink; coloured. Shows the Old Park in the chapelry of St John with field- names, acreages, names of the tenants, a portion of the town, Devizes castle, and much topographical detail, including “the George”, “the winde Mill” and “The Lodge”, the latter being occupied by keepers of the deer and other parkland beasts until its demolition shortly before 1839 (VCH, Wilts., iii, p. 246) - 1654

Fig.4 - Extracts from a Map of Devizes Park dated 1654. The Crowne Inn is marked by a blue arrow and the site of the Castle mount with a purple arrow. Castle Lane can be seen below the Crowne.

Part of a relatively modern copy of the 1654 map can be found in Fig.5.28

28 Wiltshire Museum, Devizes - DZSWS Map 698 - Devizes Map 1654. Copyright permission has been kindly provided by the Wiltshire Museum, Devizes to use this image in this report.

©Wiltshire Museum, Devizes

Fig.5 - Extract from a copy of the Map of Devizes Park dated 1654. The Crown Inn is marked by the letter ‘C’.

The copy map appears to confirm that the Crown Inn was located in St John’s Street, close to Castle Lane in 1654. No original castle buildings are marked.

A copy of a Survey of Devizes Old Park has been found by John May dated 8 April 1654 which accompanied the 1654 map.29 It shows that the estate had been sub-divided and Henry Barrett, probably the innkeeper at the Crown Inn at that time is referred to as holding land within Devizes Park (see Fig.6).

Fig.6 - An extract from a copy of the Survey of Devizes Park dated 1654. Henry Barrett is included as holding five grounds containing over 21 acres.

It is known when John Leland a king's antiquary visited Devizes in the 1545, he described the castle as a ruin.30 What is interesting to see is the presence of a windmill on the 1654 map close to the castle mount and by 1723 there were two windmills within a drawing by William Stukeley dated 17th July 1723 (see Fig.7).31 This view contrasts with a former description of Devizes castle as ‘the finest and most splendid in Europe’.32 Devizes Castle had been demolished in 1649.33

©Wiltshire Museum, Devizes

Fig.7- William Stukeley’s drawing of the site of Devizes Castle with two windmills on the castle mount dated 17th July 1723

29 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 212B/2356 - Survey of Devizes Old Park, by John May. (copy) - 8 April 1654 30 A P Baggs, D A Crowley, Ralph B Pugh, Janet H Stevenson and Margaret Tomlinson, 'The borough of Devizes: Town, castle and estates', in A History of the County of Wiltshire: Volume 10, ed. Elizabeth Crittall (London, 1975), pp. 225-252. British History Online http://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/wilts/vol10/pp225-252 [accessed 6 October 2019]. 31 Wiltshire Museum, Devizes - DZSWS : MSS4217 - Relics of Old Devizes, No. 41 - Printed Engraving of Devizes by Stukeley dated 17th July 1723. Copyright permission has been kindly provided by the Wiltshire Museum, Devizes to use this image in this report. 32 Lorna Haycock (1993, reprinted 2012 by The History Press) Devizes, History and Guide - p.12 33 WSHC, Local Studies Library - DEV.940 - James Waylen (1839) Chronicle of The Devizes - p.155

During the 17th century, it is likely the business of The Crown adapted to the provision of a wagon service between London and Devizes. This would have placed more emphasis on providing overnight accommodation and stabling. Such a service had commenced by 1637 and was on a weekly basis by 1690.34

An abstract of title has been found for the property of Sir Henry Andrews in Devizes, which was formerly the estate of John Drew of Devizes, covering the period 1656 to 1692. This document firstly refers to the will written by John Drew in 1656 who had a substantial Wiltshire estate, some of which was within the Borough of Devizes. Following John Drew’s death the estate passed to his wife, Elizabeth, who was later to marry Sir Henry Andrews of Lathbury Baronet. Their marriage settlement dated 1662 refers to the Crown Inn. It is highly likely the Crown Inn was part of the property recently inherited by Elizabeth from her deceased husband, John Drew (see Fig.8).35

Fig.8 - Extract from an abstract of title of the property of Sir Henry Andrews covering the period from 1656 to 1692. Two references can be seen to the Crown Inn within the entry relating to the marriage settlement of 1662

In fact, Elizabeth held within her large estate, six inns in Devizes; The Green Dragon, The Crown Inn, The George, The Bull, The Red Lyon and The Greyhound. She then married Sir Henry Andrews around 1662 and their estates were brought together. The Crown Inn was occupied by Paul Tatenell in 1662. He also occupied three meadows in Rowde.

On 25th July 1670, Warden Woodward, a man of some status, who oversaw the estates of New College, Oxford stayed overnight in Devizes at the Crown. We know this from a journal he kept of his of his activities as a warden36

…when wee came to Stert, there was noe man to entertaine us. Mr Topp had noe notice of a court to bee kept there, soe that at last I was desired to returne for that night unto the Vize and lye there. His tenant our baliffe provided for us at the Crowne where we supp’d and lay. William Shaw mett Mr Minshall in the Vize and brought him to the Crowne, about 7 of the clocke Mr. Steward came in also. Mr. Topps bailiffe rode the same night unto Stockin and acquainted Mr. Topp with our comeing; Mr.

34 A P Baggs, D.A. Crowley, Ralph B Pugh, Janet H Stevenson and Margaret Tomlinson, 'The borough of Devizes: Town, castle and estates', in A History of the County of Wiltshire: Volume 10, ed. Elizabeth Crittall (London, 1975), pp. 225- 252. British History Online http://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/wilts/vol10/pp225-252 [accessed 16 October 2019]. 35 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 254/1 - Abstract of title of Sir Henry Andrews' estate (formerly John Drewe's estate) in Poulshot, Devizes and Rowde. 1656-1692 36 WSHC, WANHS Vol XIII (1957) ed. R.L Rickard - Progress Notes of Warden Woodward for the Wiltshire Estates of New College, Oxford 1659 to 1675

Topp was gone into Dorsetshire. On the morrow morneing being Tuesday about 9 a clocke, Mr. Aud came to us at the Crowne…

In 1675, Sir Henry Andrews and Dame Elizabeth placed property in Devizes and in nearby parishes into a trust including the Crown Inn, which was still occupied by Paul Tatnell [Tatenell] (see Fig.9).37

Fig.9 - Extract from an abstract of title of the property of Sir Henry Andrews covering the period from 1656 to 1692. Two further references can be seen to the Crown Inn within an entry relating to the set-up of a trust arrangement in 1675

Another abstract of title relating to a later owner of the Crown Inn, Mr Thresher [Robert Thresher Woolstapler] indicates Sir Henry Andrews and his wife, Elizabeth sold the Crown Inn in 1678 to Richard Hillier of Devizes for £500. The sale included the three closes of meadow in the parish of Rowde (see Fig.10).38 It is interesting to note that the Crown described as a common inn had an alternative name, ‘the Kings Armes’ at this stage.

37 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 254/1 - Abstract of title of Sir Henry Andrews' estate (formerly John Drewe's estate) in Poulshot, Devizes and Rowde. 1656-1692 38 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 248/85 - 10 documents, mainly abstracts of title to the Crown Inn in Devizes (c1686-1800) - 1801

Fig.10 - Extract from an abstract of title of the property of Mr Thresher covering the period from 1678 to 1728, showing a reference to the Crown Inn and three closes of meadow in the parish of Rowde

In 1685, the abstract of title of Mr Thresher to the Crown Inn shows a marriage settlement between Richard Hillier’s daughter Honor and her future husband, Robert Thresher, a woolstapler. This marriage settlement refers to their use of the Crown Inn during their lifetimes, once they had married and Richard Hillier had died.39

The actual marriage settlement has been found and can be seen in Fig.11.40

39 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 248/85 - 10 documents, mainly abstracts of title to the Crown Inn in Devizes (c1686-1800) - 1801 40 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2799/3 - Deeds and papers of the Crown Inn, St. John Street, Devizes, sold in 1967 by Wadworth and the site used for the telephone exchange. Including:- 1.Copy probate of the will of Mary King, proved P.C.C., 1837. 2. Sale particulars, 1869. 3. Abstract of title 1802- 1869. 4. Certificate of redemption of land tax, 1936. Sale particulars, 1967. Principal parties: Hiller, Thresher, Sharp King, Leach, Humby and Wadworth Ltd. 1686-1967

Fig.11 - The deed relating to the marriage settlement of Robert Thresher and Honor Hillier dated 1685

The precise wording in the 1685 deed referring to the Crown is as follows:

…All that messuage or tenement and Common Inn (called the Crown) with the backside outhouses, stables & appurtenances thereunto belonging heretofore in the tenure or occupation of William Buckler and Mr John Long, Mercer deceased but now in the occupation and possession of the sayd William Buckler and one Joseph Carey.41 All the sayd premises are situate lying and being in the New Port of the Borough of Devizes and in the parish of St John the Baptist there having the George Inn there being the land of Mr George Watton and now in the occupation of Alexander Ash… on the south part that of a messuage or tenement now in the occupation of James Webb mercer on the north part the common street on the east part...42

41 Mr John Long’s profession was inserted on the deed at a later date. 42 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2799/3 - Deeds and papers of the Crown Inn, St. John Street, Devizes, sold in 1967 by Wadworth and the site used for the telephone exchange. 1686 to 1967

5. 39 St John’s Street in the 18th Century

In circa 1708, a Richard Hillier, a gentleman from Devizes died.43 It is believed that this was the same Richard Hillier referred to in the abstract of title of Sir Henry Andrews. 44 It is clear that the marriage settlement was then enacted, as a deed has been found dated 1709 between Robert Thresher, a gentleman, Honour his wife, Honour his daughter and Sir William Pynsent of Urchfont leasing the Crown Inn and the adjacent messuage to Sir William Pynsent for a 1000 years for a price of £250 and a peppercorn rent with the proviso that the premises could be redeemed if a payment of £263 15 shillings was made. From the deed, it is possible to ascertain that the buildings were now occupied by John Deane and Joseph Webb. 45 The abstract of title of Mr Thresher to the Crown Inn makes it clear that this was a mortgage.46

The mortgage was transferred to Mary Massey, widow in 1725 and then to William Benger in 1728. By 1728, it is clear from the mortage details that Robert Thresher was now a widower, described as Robert Thresher the elder, a gentleman, whilst his son Robert Thresher [the younger] was now the innkeeper of the Crown Inn.47

A map of the South Ward of Devizes by John Overton has been found which shows the site of the Crown Inn in 1737-8 (see Fig.12). It is unclear how accurate this map might be, but it does suggest that the buiding on the site of 39 St John’s Street extended back further in its plot than neighbouring properties at this stage. It is also possible to get some idea of the size of the site and the possible length of the frontage onto the street. It appears that the section of St John’s Street, where the Crown Inn was found was then known as Castle Street.48

43 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - P1/H/655 - Administration bond and will of Richard Hillier, Gentleman, Devizes dated 1708 44 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 254/1 - Abstract of title of Sir Henry Andrews' estate (formerly John Drewe's estate) in Poulshot, Devizes and Rowde. 1656-1692 45 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2799/3 - Deeds and papers of the Crown Inn, St. John Street, Devizes, sold in 1967 by Wadworth and the site used for the telephone exchange. 1686 - 1967 46 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 248/85 - 10 documents, mainly abstracts of title to the Crown Inn in Devizes (c1686-1800) - 1801 47 Ibid 48 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 1553/87H - Map of the South Ward of Devizes. Surveyed by John Overton of Devizes. Scale 6 inches to one mile 1737-38

Fig.12 - Extract from a map of the South ward of Devizes dated 1737-8

In 1756, two deeds, a lease and release refer to the Crown Inn and indicate that Robert Thresher the younger, innkeeper had died and now Henry Thresher of Wilton, a surgeon, the only son and heir of Robert Thresher the younger was taking ownership of the premises.49 The description of the premises remained unchanged

…All that messuage or tenement and Common Inn called the Crown with the Backside outhouses Stables and appurtenances thereunto belonging heretofore in the tenure or occupation of William Buckler and Mr John Long Mercer deceased and lately of said Robert Thresher the younger but now of James Seane…

49 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2799/3 - Deeds and papers of the Crown Inn, St. John Street, Devizes, sold in 1967 by Wadworth and the site used for the telephone exchange. 1686 to 1967

A well-known map of Devizes was surveyed by Edward Dore in 1759. The map is titled ‘An accurate Plan of the Ancient Borough of Devizes with the Gardens, Nurseries adjac' (see Figs. 13a and 13b).50

Fig.13a - Extract from Edward Dore’s map of Devizes dated 1759 Due to the scale of the map, it is not possible to see detailed footprints of the buildings on the site of 39 St John’s Street nor to ascetain the precise size of the site.

Fig.13b - Extract from Edward Dore’s map of Devizes dated 1759 focussing on the site of 39 St John’s Street

50 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - X6/26HC - Detailed map of the Borough of Devizes. Surveyor: Edward Dore. Includes elevations of some principal buildings. - 1759

By 1722, the wagon service from London to Devizes was now twice weekly. By 1762, there were two direct routes from London to Bath, by Chippenham and by Devizes. All of which may have had an impact on the business of the Crown Inn.51

In 1782, two deeds, a further lease and release transferred the Crown Inn at Devizes to Henry Thresher’s two children, John Thresher and Mrs Mary Sharp. The deeds indicate that Henry Thresher of Wilton had died and his will dated 14 November 1767 resulted in the set up of a trust for the benefit of his children, once all of Henry Thresher’s freehold and leasehold estates had been sold to release funds. The only exception to this was, the Crown Inn was to be retained. Once his children had both reached twenty one years, the Crown was to be conveyed to them.52 Reference to the Crown in the deeds is as follows

…all that the said Messuage or Dwelling house being a public house known by the name the Crown Inn situate in or near the Borough of Devizes…

The following lithogram print shows St John’s Street in the late eighteenth century (see Fig.14).53

©Wiltshire Museum, Devizes

Fig.14 - Undated lithogram showing St, John’s Street Devizes in the late 18th century whilst the Crown Inn is just out of view.

51 A P Baggs, D A Crowley, Ralph B Pugh, Janet H Stevenson and Margaret Tomlinson, 'The borough of Devizes: Town, castle and estates', in A History of the County of Wiltshire: Volume 10, ed. Elizabeth Crittall (London, 1975), pp. 225-252. British History Online http://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/wilts/vol10/pp225-252 [accessed 16 October 2019]. 52 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2799/3 - Deeds and papers of the Crown Inn, St. John Street, Devizes, sold in 1967 by Wadworth and the site used for the telephone exchange. 1686 - 1967 53 Wiltshire Museum, Devizes - DZSWS : MSS4217 - Relics of Old Devizes, No. 52 - Mounted Printed Engraving- Town House & Marketplace at the Devizes. Copyright permission has been kindly provided by the Wiltshire Museum, Devizes to use this image in this report.

6. 39 St John’s Street in the 19th Century

In 1802, Mr Thomas Sharpe the husband of Mary Sharpe and their son, Mr Thomas Thresher Sharpe conveyed the Crown Inn in St John Street to Mrs King, a widow.54 John Thresher had died unmarried and without issue. It appears that James Power had become the innkeeper at the Crown after James Seane and then Mary King prior to the conveyance of the property to her.55

In 1814, Mary King purchased stables and other premises behind the Crown Inn from Mr Robert Bruges, linen draper and Mr James Tilby, a gentleman. At least some of these buildings were already occupied by Mary King as a tenant of Robert Bruges.56

Cunningham (writing in 1926), lists individuals authorised to keep Common Inns, Alehouses and Victualling Houses in the Borough of Devizes in the year 1818, having provided sureties to obey regulations relating to such establishments. Mary King appears on this list as the innkeeper of the Crown Inn.57

A copy will of Mrs Mary King widow has been found with the deeds of the Crown Inn and it indicates that she died in January 1837. Mary left the Crown Inn and the associated buildings behind it, to one of her sons, George King, who was already the tenant of the premises (see Fig.15) 58 It is clear she owned two inns at the time of her death, the second being the Kings Arms in the parish of Bishops Cannnings.

Fig.15 - Extract from a copy will of Mary King who died in January 1837 In J.Pigot’s Commerical Directory of 1822, the Crown is listed as a Commercial Inn and George King as the innkeeper as well as being a maltster and corn factor in St John Street, Devizes. By 1830 in the same directory, he still occupied the Crown, was still described as being a brewer and corn dealer in St John Street but now a maltster at the Green in Devizes.

54 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2799/3 - Deeds and papers of the Crown Inn, St. John Street, Devizes, sold in 1967 by Wadworth and the site used for the telephone exchange. 1686 to 1967 55 Ibid 56 Ibid 57 WSHC, Local Studies Library - DEV.327 - BH Cunningham (1926), Devizes Borough Annals 1791- 1835, George Simpson & Co Devizes

58 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2799/3 - Deeds and papers of the Crown Inn, St. John Street, Devizes, sold in 1967 by Wadworth and the site used for the telephone exchange. 1686 to 1967

A plan of the Borough of Devizes with boundary changes dating from 1834 has been found, surveyed by George Oakley Lucas (see Fig.16).59

Fig. 16 - An extract from a plan of the Borough of Devizes with boundary changes dating from 1834. Note No.20 refers to Devizes and Wiltshire Bank

It does show infilling of the plots along St John’s Street including the development of the site behind the Crown Inn.

The Tithe Award of the parish of St John, The Baptist dated 1839, also surveyed by George Oakley Lucas shows this infilling in more detail and provides more information about the Crown Inn site (see Fig. 17). Unfortunately the Tithe Award register for this parish provides no further useful information.60

59 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - G20/1/96H - Plan of Devizes with the New Boundary of the Borough, surveyed by George Oakley Lucas in 1834 60 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - Tithe Award plan for the parish of St John the Baptist dated 1839

Fig. 17 - Extract from The Tithe Award plan of the parish of St John, The Baptist dated 1839

The 1841 Census shows George King aged 50 was residing at the Crown Inn with his wife, Sarah, John Sten another innkeeper possibly his deputy and 4 servants.61

By 1842, George King still held the Crown Inn and was listed in J.Pigot’s Commercial Directory as a corn dealer and maltster in the Market Place.62 This suggests that some of George King’s business operations had been moved from the St John’s Street address to the Market Place. It is known from Kelly’s Trade Directory of Wiltshire dated 1848, that the Crown Inn had become a commerical inn and posting house by that date. The posting house based at the Crown would have supported the carrier services transporting passengers and mail on the regular routes passing through Devizes. Stabling in particular behind the inn would provide fresh horses and personnel to assist with onward travel.63

Kelly’s Trade Directory of Wiltshire dated 1848 makes reference to coaches and carriers departing the Crown Inn as follows:

Coaches

From the Crown inn, St. John Street:-

61 1841 Census - St John the Baptist, Devizes 62 WSHC, Local Studies Library - W.R.S. Vol 47 - Early Trade Directories of Wiltshire pp. 51, 71, 72, 114 and 115 63 WSHC, Local Studies Library - Kelly Directory of Wiltshire dated 1848

Royal Express, at ½ past 7, to Chippenham, thence to London, via Great Western railway, in 3 ½ hours

Royal Mail, 12 noon, to London & Bristol

Aurora, at 5 p.m. to Chippenham

Aurora, at 1 p.m. to Salisbury & Southampton

Optimus, at ½ past 4 p.m. to Hungerford

Carriers

To MARLBOROUGH & SWINDON – Mortimore, from the Crown inn, St. John street, thurs

To CALNE – Fennell, from the Crown inn, St. John street, thurs & sat

To TILSHEAD & MANNINGTON – Franklin, from the Crown inn, St. John street, thurs

To CHARLTON, UPHAVEN & COLLINGBOURNE – Smith, from the Crown inn, St. John street, thurs

Today the role of the Crown as a posting house is still commemorated with signage on the main front door surround showing some of the destinations of the coaches over time using the Crown as a staging post (see Fig.17).

Fig. 17 - Signage found on the main front door surround commemorating the role of the Crown Inn as a posting house

A further printed engraving has been found showing a view from near the Crown Inn in St John’s Street towards the Market Cross in 1843 (see Fig.18).64

©Wiltshire Museum, Devizes

Fig. 18 - Mounted printed engraving showing view from St John’s Street, Devizes towards the Market Cross dated 1843

A detailed plan of the town of Devizes has been found dated 1849 produced by the surveyor J.R. Bramble of Devizes (see Fig.19).65

64 Wiltshire Museum, Devizes – DZSWS: MSS4217 - Relics of Old Devizes, No. 53 - Mounted Printed Engraving - Devizes, Wilts dated 1843. Published by H. Bull, Devizes. Copyright permission has been kindly provided by the Wiltshire Museum, Devizes to use this image in this report. 65 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - G20/700/1L - Devizes, plan of the town - J.R. Bramble surveyor 1849

Fig. 19 - Extract from a Plan of the Town of Devizes dated 1849

It provides a clear indication of the development of the site, particularly the inn, as opposed to the outbuildings behind between the years 1839 and 1849. It is highly likely George King was responsible for the external changes to the frontage of the Crown Inn and further expansion on the site in the 1840s. He had received a substantial inheritance, part of which was the Crown Inn from his mother, Mary King in 1837. He was referred to as the innkeeper of the Crown until at least 1850.66

In George King’s will dated 9th November 1850, he provided a description of the premises at that stage and outlined his instruction for a trust to be set up following his death in order to disposal of his assets in an appropriate manner, over time, in order to provide for his wife during her lifetime, Mary Gale King and for his daughter. He then died on 28th March 1851.67

…All that Messuage or Tenement called the Crown Inn in Devizes aforesaid with the buildings & premises thereto adjoining & belonging and…

…All that Stable with the Buildings & ground thereto situate at the back of the said Messuage & premises and which he purchased of Richard John Webb…

66 WSHC, Local Studies Library - Robert Jago (2019) Wiltshire Inns from Directories 1783 - 1900 - Devizes, Crown, St John Street - Slaters Directory of 1850 67 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2799/3 - Deeds and papers of the Crown Inn, St. John Street, Devizes, sold in 1967 by Wadworth and the site used for the telephone exchange. 1686 to 1967

…And also all that Coach house with the Stable and Ground adjoining which he had contracted to purchase of Robert Valentine Leach…68

The 1851 Census shows Elizabeth King aged 40, head of the household, an innkeeper lived at the Crown Inn. She is described as being a widow; it is suspected she was George King’s daughter who had lost her husband as well her father. She was supported by two nephews, Thomas aged 30 described as an innkeeper and Edgar aged 20 described as being an assistant. There was also Elizabeth King, probably a relative working as a barmaid aged 30. A third nephew was living there employed as an auctioneer and also her sister, Maria Reeves described as being a gentlewoman. Live in servants included a barwoman, a waitress, a cook, an ostler and a boy to clean boots. Hotel guests on the day of the census included a builder and a commercial traveller.69 The need to have a servant to clean boots was caused by the dirty state of the streets in the town partially due to the number of horses used in transportation and cattle being driven through the street on market days.

The Post Office Directory of Wiltshire indicates by 1855, Benjamin Palmer had become the occupier of the Crown in St John Street. Further to this, the Southbroom Brewery now existed at the Green in the ownership of Frederick Peter Humby, a brewer, a future owner of the Crown.70 Kelly’s Directory of Wiltshire in 1859 confirms that Benjamin Palmer was still the innkeeper at the Crown but also provides an address for the premise of 39 St John Street. Whilst Humby & Robbins were located at the Green, who were beer, ale and porter brewers, as well as wine and spirit merchants.71

In Gillman’s Devizes Register in 1861, an advert was placed for the Crown Commercial Hotel whilst Benjamin Palmer was the proprietor.72 This is the earliest known reference to the premises being called a hotel and this may suggest some form of renovation and expansion around this time (see Fig.20).

68 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2799/3 - Deeds and papers of the Crown Inn, St. John Street, Devizes, sold in 1967 by Wadworth and the site used for the telephone exchange. 1686 to 1967 69 1851 Census - St John the Baptist, Devizes 70 WSHC, Local Studies Library - The Post Office Directory of Wiltshire dated 1855 71 WSHC, Local Studies Library - Kelly’s Directory of Wiltshire dated 1859 72 WSHC, Local Studies Library - Gillman’s Devizes Register I (1858 - 63)

Fig. 20 - An advert for the Crown Commerical Hotel found in Gillman’s Devizes Register in 1861

The 1861 Census shows that Benjamin Palmer was aged 62, married to Ann aged 52. Three daughters lived with them, one of them being a schoolmistress and another an assistant possibly to her father. Staff included two bar assistants, a cook, a waitress and a waiter. Hotel guests included on the day of the census, a land agent, a land surveyor and auctioneer’s clerk and an auctioneer’s porter.73

A map of the borough of Devizes by Henry Weaver, surveyor to the Local Board of Health provides a footprint of the site of the Crown Inn in 1869 (see Fig.21).74

73 1861 Census for the parish of St. John the Baptist 74 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives – G20/700/2H - Map of Devizes borough and district by Henry Weaver, surveyor to the Local Board of Health. Scale c 30 inches: 1 mile. 1869

Fig. 21 - Extracts from a map of the borough of Devizes by Henry Weaver, surveyor to the Local Board of Health dated 1869 focussing on the Crown Hotel site

On 26 January 1869, the Crown Hotel was advertised for sale and sale particulars can be seen in Appendix A. Interestingly it was advertised as an inn rather than as a hotel.75 Robert Valentine Leach Esq. of Devizes Castle purchased the Crown at the auction for £1,825.

Robert Leach then conveyed the freehold of the Crown Inn on 26th March 1869 to Frederick Peter Humby and Frederic Robbins, the owners of Southbroom brewery for £1,400. A plan within the 1869 deed showing the extent of the site at that time (see Fig.22).

75 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2799/3 - Deeds and papers of the Crown Inn, St. John Street, Devizes, sold in 1967 by Wadworth and the site used for the telephone exchange. 1686 to 1967

Fig. 22 - A plan of the Crown Inn site found within the conveyance of the Crown Inn to Humby and Robbins in 1869

An undated advertisement for the Southbroom brewery owned by Humby & Robbins can be found in Fig. 23.76

76 Wiltshire Museum, Devizes - DZSWS: Box 194, MSS1795 - Advertisement for Southbroom Brewery, Devizes (undated). Copyright permission has been kindly provided by the Wiltshire Museum, Devizes to use this image in this report.

©Wiltshire Museum, Devizes

Fig. 23 - An advertisment for Humby & Robbins Southbroom Brewery in Devizes (undated)

The last reference in Gillman’s Devizes Register to Benjamin Palmer as proprietor of the Crown Hotel was in 1869. The following year Thomas Raymond had replaced him.77 It is clear from the sale particulars of 1869, Benjamin Palmer was planning to retire.

The 1871 Census shows Thomas Raymond aged 55 as the innkeeper at the Crown Inn. He was married to Jane aged 36 and there were four servants, a barmaid, two general servants and a boy to clean boots.78

In 1875, Kelly’s Directory of Wiltshire shows Thomas Raymond was still the proprietor of the Crown Hotel at 39 St John Street.79 Gillman’s Devizes Register shows that Samuel Hill was running the Crown Hotel in 1876, although by 1877 he had been replaced by his widow Mrs Hill. Thomas Raymond was again recorded as the proprietor in 1878.80

Gillman’s Devizes Register shows that in the years 1880 and 1881 the widow of Thomas Raymond, Jane Maria Raymond was running the Crown Hotel. This was the case when the freehold of the Crown Inn was conveyed by Humby & Robbins and a trustee to Frederick Peter Humby on 7th June 1880.81 Jane Raymond was replaced by William Sly in 1882.82 In 1882, Frederick Peter Humby died and the Crown Hotel was purchased in January 1883 by James Frederick Humby a common brewer and wine and spirit merchant for £1,820.83

The 1881 Census refers to Jane M Raymond aged 47, a widow as head of household and decribed as being a licensed victualler, she lived with a barmaid, housemaid, general servant and a boy to clean boots.84

From 1884 to 1893, William Eades Cole was running the Crown Hotel. The same advertisement appeared in 1884 and 1887 in Gillman’s Devizes Register (see Fig.24). 85 During his tenure, a half share of the freehold of the Crown Hotel was conveyed to Henry Stiles Humby in 1885 as agreed previously when James Frederick Humby acquired the Crown Hotel in 1883.86

77 WSHC, Local Studies Library - Gillman’s Devizes Register III (1869-73) 78 1871 Census - the parish of St John the Baptist, Devizes 79 WSHC, Local Studies Library - Kelly’s Directory of Wiltshire dated 1875 80 WSHC, Local Studies Library - Gillman’s Devizes Register IV (1874 - 78) 81 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2799/3 - Deeds and papers of the Crown Inn, St. John Street, Devizes, sold in 1967 by Wadworth and the site used for the telephone exchange. 1686 to 1967 82 WSHC, Local Studies Library - Gillman’s Devizes Register V (1879 - 82) 83 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2799/3 - Deeds and papers of the Crown Inn, St. John Street, Devizes, sold in 1967 by Wadworth and the site used for the telephone exchange. 1686 to 1967 84 1881 Census - the parish of St John the Baptist, Devizes 85 WSHC, Local Studies Library - Gillman’s Devizes Register VI (1883 - 86) and Register VII (1997 - 90) 86 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2799/3 - Deeds and papers of the Crown Inn, St. John Street, Devizes, sold in 1967 by Wadworth and the site used for the telephone exchange. 1686 to 1967

Fig. 24 - An advertisment for the Crown Hotel, Devizes in the Gillman Devizes Register of 1884

It should be noted some renovation work had occurred around 1884 and there is attempt here to attract families as well as commercial travellers.

The first Ordnance Survey (O.S.) maps available for the town of Devizes were surveyed in 1885 and published in 1886. The first map has a 25 inch scale and the second a 1/500 inch scale (see Figs.25a and 25b).87 88 Both maps provide good detail about the buildings on the Crown Hotel site.

87 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - Ordnance Survey map of Wiltshire 1886 - 25 inch - sheet 34/13 and 34/14 surveyed 1885 published 1886 88 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - Ordnance Survey map of Wiltshire 1886 - 1/500 inch scale - sheet 34.13.10 and sheet 34.14.6 surveyed 1885 published 1886

Fig 25a - Extract from the 25 inch OS map of 1886 showing the Crown Hotel in St. John’s Street, Devizes

Fig 25b - Extract from the 1/500 inch OS map of 1886 showing the Crown Hotel in St. John’s Street, Devizes

A photograph has been found at the Wiltshire Museum which shows the Market Place in the 1880s. An extract from the photograph shown in Fig.26 shows the entrance to St. John’s Street. The Crown Hotel is just out of view. 89

89 Wiltshire Museum, Devizes - DZSWS : MSS4217 - Relics of Old Devizes - photograph of the Market Place. Copyright permission has been kindly provided by the Wiltshire Museum, Devizes to use this image in this report

Fig 26 - An extract from a photograph showing the entrance to St. John’s Street viewed from the Market Place in the 1880s

In 1889, Wadworth & Co Limited in Devizes purchased the firm of J.F and H.S Humby, Southbroom Brewery in Devizes. Wadworth owned the Northgate Brewery in Devizes which the founder of Wadworth, Mr H.A Wadworth had built in 1885 after his purchase of the old original brewery in 1875. Wadworth & Co continued to expand by acquisition of other local breweries and between 1904 and 1968 purchased many licenced premises throughout the south west. 90 A trust deed dated 7th March 1890 conveyed the Crown Hotel to trustees of Wadworth & Co Ltd. The document

90 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2816/451/1 - Wadworth & Co Ltd - Illustrated brochures and handbooks listing Company public houses, history of the firm and illustration of the houses and brewery processes. c1940-c1990

34 provides a description of the buildings which would have been on the Crown Hotel site when Wadworth & Co purchased the firm of J.F. and H.S. Humby in 1889.

…All THAT messuage or tenement and Common Inn called the Crown Hotel with the backsides outhouses and stables thereunto belonging….AND ALSO ALL THOSE several buildings barn rooms lofts stables erections sheds yard hereditaments and premises adjoining the said Inn or some part thereof severally situate lying and being at the back of the Crown Hotel aforesaid and within the said Parish and from time to time occupied with the said Inn by the Occupiers thereof AND ALSO ALL THAT three stalled stable with the lofts over the same also adjoining the aforesaid premises or some part thereof and occupied as aforesaid …91

An advert for Wadworth & Co from 1894 can be found in Fig. 27.92

Fig. 27 - An advertisment for Wadworth & Co, Devizes in the Gillman’s Almanack of 1894

91 Extracted from documentation provided by the current owner on a WBR site visit to 39 St John’s Street on 11 September 2019 92 WSHC, Local Studies Library - Gillman’s Almanacks 1891-94 - Wadworth & Co advert appeared in 1894

The 1891 Census shows William E Cole aged 38 as the hotel keeper of the Crown Hotel. He was living with his wife, Elizabeth aged 28 and two very young children. His sister in law, Mary Feltham lived with them along with a waitress, cook, nurse and a man employed to clean boots.93

In 1894, Robert Blair became the proprietor of the Crown Hotel. An advert appeared for the Crown Hotel in 1895 (See Fig. 28).94

Fig. 28 - An advertisment for the Crown Hotel, Devizes in the Gillman’s Devizes Register IX in 1895

93 1891 Census - the parish of St John the Baptist, Devizes 94 WSHC, Local Studies Library - Gillman’s Almanacks 1891-94 and Gillman’s Devizes Register IX 1895-98

In 1889, 1895 and 1899, the Crown was being described as a first class family and commerical hotel and posting house. It was also being promoted in Kelly’s Directories as being within 3 minutes of the G.W. Railway station, suggesting the train service through Devizes was now contributing to its business.95 7. 39 St John’s Street in the 20th Century

The next 25 inch O.S. map available for Devizes was surveyed in 1884, revised in 1899 and published in 1900 (see Fig. 29).96

Fig 29 - Extract from the 25 inch OS map of 1900 showing the Crown Hotel in St John’s Street, Devizes

The 1901 Census refers to Robert Blair from Tyrone in Ireland aged 45 as being a licensed victualler. His wife, Maria aged 37 was from Belgium and they had 3 young children. A barmaid, waitress and boot boy lived with them.97

A photograph of The Crown Commercial Hotel in 1901 can be found in the publication ‘A Devizes Camera’ by David Buxton and John Girvan.98

95 Kelly’s Directories of Wiltshire dated 1889, 1895 and 1899 96 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - Ordnance Survey map of Wiltshire 1900 - 25 inch – sheets 34/13 and 34/14 surveyed 1884, revised 1899 and published in 1900 97 1901 Census - the parish of St John the Baptist, Devizes 98 WSHC, Local Studies Library - DEV.771 - David Buxton and John Girvan (1983) - A Devizes Camera, Devizes Books Press plate 115

In 1903, the Crown was being described in Kelly’s Directory as a ‘Commerical Hotel and Posting House’, still with Robert Blair as the proprietor. An advertisement appeared in this edition of the Directory (see Fig.30).99

Fig. 30 - An advertisment for the Crown Hotel, Devizes in the Kelly’s Directory of 1903

It is interesting to note the hotel branching into outside catering. However by 1907, John Pain had become the proprietor. A further advertisement appeared in 1907 (see Fig.31).100

99 Kelly’s Directory of Wiltshire dated 1903 100 Kelly’s Directory of Wiltshire dated 1907

Fig. 31 - An advertisment for the Crown Hotel, Devizes in Kelly’s Directory dated 1907

A planning application was made in 1910 for proposed alterations to the Crown Hotel by F.G. Billingham on behalf of Wadworth & Co Limited (see Appendix B). These alterations related to the extension of the Crown Room on the south side.

The nationwide Inland Revenue Survey of 1910 -1915 was conducted in the town of Devizes.

Both an Inland Revenue map and register are available (see Fig. 32).101 Please note the base map used for the Inland Revenue map was the 1/500 inch OS map of the town of Devizes dated 1886. The Inland Revenue map indicates that the building was No. 371 in the register.

101 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - L8/1/109 and L8/10/34 (map) - Inland Revenue Survey 1910 - Devizes St John

Fig 32 - Extract from the Inland Revenue Survey map showing the site of the Crown Hotel in St John’s Street, Devizes (labelled no. 371)

The entry in the Inland Revenue register for the building states:

No.371

Owner - Wadworth Occupier - Henry Thomas Richard Walker Description of Property - Alehouse Name of Property - Crown Hotel

In 1911, Kelly’s Directory of Wiltshire shows the Crown was still being called a ‘Commercial Hotel & Posting House’ and it was described as being centrally situated with a billiards room, stabling, garage etc. This directory confirms Henry Walker was the proprietor.102

It appears from the 1911 Census that Henry aged 40 and his wife, Mary aged 31 who assisted him in the business, had been living in Nawalapitiya in Ceylon previously as two of his children had been born there in 1901 and 1907. Their third child was born in Devizes in 1910, possibly soon after he took over at the Crown Hotel. They had four staff living in, a barmaid, 2 general helpers and a young woman employed as both a house maid and waitress.103

In 1915, during the First World War, Mrs B.P. Donkin was now the proprietor of the Crown Hotel and the premises had a garage, along with a billiard room and stabling. After the war in 1920 and 1923 Walter L. Durnford is recorded as being the proprietor and the hotel description was unchanged.104

102 Kelly’s Directory of Wiltshire dated 1911 103 1911 Census - parish of St John the Baptist, Devizes 104 Kelly’s Directories of Wiltshire dated 1915, 1920 and 1923

A sketch has been found of St John Street and Wine Street in the 1920s and 1930s. It provides information about the businesses and establishments found in the two streets. The Crown Hotel is marked and a general comment has been made that this was a busy part of town. It is believed that the sketch was produced by a local inhabitant of Devizes (see Appendix C).105

The next 25 inch O.S. map available for the town of Devizes was surveyed in 1884 and published in 1923 (see Fig.33).106

Fig 33 - Extract from the 25 inch OS map of 1923 showing the Crown Hotel in St. John’s Street, Devizes

Kelly Directories show in the years, 1927 and 1931, Francis William Porter was the proprietor of the Crown Hotel in St John’s Street. Whilst in the years 1935 and 1939, William Bowditch was running the Hotel.107

A plan of the Crown Hotel site dated 1936 has been found attached to a Land Tax Redemption form (see Fig. 34).108

105 Wiltshire Museum, Devizes - DZSWS: MSS2802 - Plans of Devizes streets showing the shops and businesses in 1920s and 1930s. Copyright permission has been kindly provided by the Wiltshire Museum, Devizes to use this image in this report 106 WSHC Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - O.S. map - 25 inch - Devizes 1923 - sheets 34/13 and 34/14 surveyed 1884, levelling revised 1899, revised 1922 and published in 1923 107 Kelly’s Directories of Wiltshire dated 1927, 1931, 1935 and 1939 108 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2799/3 - Deeds and papers of the Crown Inn, St. John Street, Devizes, sold in 1967 by Wadworth and the site used for the telephone exchange. 1686 to 1967

Fig.34 - A plan of the Crown Hotel site dated 1936 has been found attached to a Land Tax Redemption form

A photograph taken circa 1937 has been found of the Crown Hotel in an undated booklet advertising Wadworth & Co Limited titled ‘Jaunts around Wiltshire’. It is estimated the booklet dates from 1937 due to the results of sports fixtures produced within it up to 1937. The booklet can be viewed at the Wiltshire and Swindon History Centre in Chippenham.109

On 9th April 1954, The Crown Hotel was given a grade II* listing.

Documentation has been found of a valuation by Quartley Sons and White, auctioneers and valuers of Castle Street, Trowbridge at the Crown Hotel Devizes on 8th November 1954.110 It appears that a change of proprietor was occurring from Mr Percy Sidney James Burge to Mr Archibald Llewellyn Richmond-Parry (see Fig. 35).

109 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2816/451/1 - Wadworth & Co Ltd - Illustrated brochures and handbooks listing Company public houses, history of the firm and illustration of the houses and brewery processes. c1940-c1990 110 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 1895/526 - Valuations at The Bridge Inn, Near Yatton, Somerset; The Crown Hotel, Devizes; The Three Horse Shoes, Chirton; The Bell Inn, Newtown, Bradford on Avon.1954

Fig 35 - Extract from a valuation book of Quartley Sons and White, auctioneers and valuers of Trowbridge focussing on an entry for the Crown Hotel in St. John Street, Devizes dated 1954

Extensive notes were found in this valuation book relating to the Crown Hotel. It has been possible to ascertain from this valuation the rooms and areas on each floor of the main building and the use of outbuildings on the Crown Hotel site (see Appendix D).

In 1967, Wadworth & Co Ltd sold The Crown Hotel to Her Majesty’s Postmaster General for £14,800. A plan of the Crown Hotel site included in the sale can be seen in Fig.36.111 112 It is understood that the Hotel had closed in 1966.113

111 Extracted from documentation provided by the current owner during a WBR site visit to 39 St John’s Street on 11 September 2019 112 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - 2799/3 - Deeds and papers of the Crown Inn, St. John Street, Devizes, sold in 1967 by Wadworth and the site used for the telephone exchange. 1686 to 1967 113 The Gazette and Herald (22 August 2019) p. 11 ‘Right Royal plan for hotel’

Fig 36 - A plan of the site of the Crown Hotel when sold by Wadworth &Co Ltd to the Postmaster General on 4th July 1967

The building remained empty until the Postmaster General (Devizes Telephone Exchange) sold most of the site on 14th April 1969 to the trustees of ‘The Golden Age Club’ for £3,000. A plan of the site when sold in 1969 can be seen in Fig.37.114

114 Extracted from documentation provided by the current owner during a WBR site visit to 39 St John’s Street on 11 September 2019

Fig 37 - A plan of the site of the Crown Hotel when sold by the Postmaster General to the trustees of The Golden Age Club on 14th April 1969

The site being sold to The Golden Age Club is coloured mauve with a right of way over the yard coloured green.

The Golden Age Club intended to renovate the building in order to establish day centre facilities within it for the elderly and lonely in Devizes and the surrounding district. Details of the history and activities of the Crown Centre, which it became, when officially opened in December 1971 can be found in Appendix E.115

Much work was required to get the building back into a fit state for even partial habitation as highlighted by a report of the Holding Committee of the Golden Age Club on 29th June 1971 (See Appendix F).116 Several photographs of the dilapidated state of the interior of the building in 1971- 72 are in the possession of the current owner.

Fundraising activity including the obtaining of grants was a key activity for The Crown Centre committee over many years.

Photographs have been found which were taken during the renovation of the front elevation of the building in the early 1970s (see Figs.38a and 38b).117

115 Documentation provided by the current owner on a WBR site visit to 39 St John’s Street on 11 September 2019 116 Ibid 117 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - F14/500/21 - Wiltshire County Council (WCC) Planning Dept, Architectural or Historic Building Grant Applications to W.C.C.- The Crown Centre, St. .John’s Street, Devizes- 1971-74. Copyright permission has been kindly granted by the Wiltshire and Swindon History Centre to reproduce these photographs in this report.

Fig 38a - A photograph of the Crown Centre looking along Wine Street. The balcony undergoing repair.

Fig 38b - A photograph of the Crown Centre looking along St John’s Street. The balcony now repaired.

A plan for the new dining room and kitchen dated June 1972 can be found in Fig.39.118

Fig 39 - A plan for the proposed ground floor dining room and kitchen dated June 1972

A survey of the Crown Centre was conducted on 28th November 1988 by C.G. Johns from the Department of Planning and Highways at Wiltshire County Council. This visit resulted in a condition report and photographic record (please see Appendix G). This survey appears to have been linked to a request for funding. On 23rd March 1990, a grant was paid of £1,788 towards roof repairs.119

118 Extracted from documentation provided by the current owner during a WBR site visit to 39 St John’s Street on 11 September 2019 119 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - F14/503/14 - Wiltshire County Council (WCC) Planning Dept, Architectural or Historic Building Grant Applications to W.C.C. - Crown Centre, St. John’s Street, Devizes- 1989-92. Copyright permission has been kindly granted by the Wiltshire and Swindon History Centre to reproduce in this report the photographs found in Appendix G.

A copy plan, sadly not of the best quality, has been found of the Crown Centre, the original was drawn up by Kennet District Council Technical Services on 28 July 1989. Unfortunately, it has not been possible to locate the original (see Appendix H). 120

Further plans of part of the Crown Centre were produced in 1997 (see Appendix I).121

8. 39 St John’s Street in the 21st Century

The Crown Centre provided an invaluable service for the elderly and vulnerable in Devizes for many years but sadly with the number of users falling the decision was taken to close the Crown Centre on 27 July 2018.

This year, a new chapter in its long and fascinating history began when it was purchased by Phillip O’Shea, the owner of the Peppermill Restaurant next door. He is planning to expand his business into the building, converting the former Crown Centre into a hotel again, to be known as The Peppermill Hotel.122

120 WSHC, Wiltshire and Swindon Archives - F14/503/14 - Wiltshire County Council (WCC) Planning Dept, Architectural or Historic Building Grant Applications to W.C.C. - Crown Centre, St. John’s Street, Devizes- 1989-92 121Plans provided by the current owner 122 The Gazette and Herald (22 August 2019) p. 11 ‘Right Royal plan for hotel’