©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

DUBROVNIK & THE DALMATIAN COAST

PETER DRAGICEVICH Contents

Plan Your Trip 4 Welcome to & the Dalmatian Coast...... 4 Top Sights...... 6 Eating...... 10 Wine...... 12 Drinking & Nightlife...... 14 For Kids...... 16 Shopping...... 18 Beaches...... 20 Boat Cruises & Rental...... 22 Walking Tours...... 23 Four Perfect Days...... 24 Need to Know...... 26 Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast Regions...... 28

Trogir (p154) JOHN AND TINA REID/GETTY IMAGES © Explore Survival Dubrovnik & Guide 158 the Dalmatian Before You Go...... 160 Coast 31 Arriving in ...... 161 Dubrovnik...... 33 Getting Around...... 162 Dalmatian Coast...... 71 Essential Information.....163 Korčula Town & Language...... 166 Korčula Island...... 91 Index...... 169 Town & Hvar Island...... 101 Bol & Brač Island...... 113 Special Features Split...... 123 City Walls & Forts...... 34 Srđ...... 40 Worth a Trip Strolling through Lokrum Island...... 66 Ploče & Viktorija...... 42 National Park...... 86 Beach-Hopping in Lapad...... 68 Salona...... 148 Walls...... 72 Klis Fortress...... 152 St Mark’s Cathedral...... 92 ...... 154 Pakleni Islands...... 102 Zlatni Rat...... 114 Diocletian’s Palace...... 124 Bačvice & Firule Beach Life...... 130 Marjan Hill Hike...... 132 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast If your Mediterranean fantasies feature balmy days by sapphire waters in the shade of ancient walled towns, Dalmatia is the place to turn them into reality. The extraordinary island-speckled coastline is backed by rugged mountains and bookended by two of ’s most intriguing cities: Dubrovnik, to the south, and Split, to the north.

Dubrovnik (p33) S-F/SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 6 Top Sights

Dubrovnik City Walls & Forts The world’s finest city walls. p34 Plan Your TripPlan CREATIVE TRAVELPROJECTS/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top Sights 7

JAZZMANY/SHUTTERSTOCK © Diocletian’s Palace A vibrant, living, ancient quarter. p124 Plan Your TripPlan Top Sights

MARCUTTI/GETTYIMAGES © Mljet National Park

Forest, lakes and ancient ruins. p86

DREAMER4787/GETTYIMAGES © Trogir World Heritage walled city. p154 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast Regions

Split Klis Fortress Airport E# Trogir#– E# E# Salona BOSNIA &

Split (p123) HERCEGOVINA A lively, buzzy city that’s both historic and Brač modern. #–Airport

Pakleni E# Islands

Ston E# Walls Hvar Town & Hvar Mljet E# Island (p101) National The sunniest spot in the Park country, with elegant restaurants and a E# buzzing nightlife. Bol & Brač Island Lokrum Island #– Dubrovnik (p113) Airport Central Dalmatia’s largest island has dramatic steep cliffs, inky waters and pine forests. Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast Dalmatian Coast (p71) Regions Historic towns and stunning beaches are strung along the Split Klis Fortress coast, with a dramatic Airport E# mountain backdrop. Trogir#– E# E# Salona BOSNIA & HERCEGOVINA

Brač #–Airport

Korčula Town & Korčula Island (p91) # Pakleni E Historic coastal citadel Islands surrounded by vineyards, olive groves and villages.

Ston E# Walls Mljet E# National Park

E# Dubrovnik (p33) Lokrum Island #– Dubrovnik A unique, betwitching Airport city in a sublime setting; the essence of a medieval Mediterranean fantasy. Explore Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Dubrovnik...... 33

Dalmatian Coast...... 71

Korčula Town & Korčula Island...... 91

Hvar Town & Hvar Island...... 101

Bol & Brač Island...... 113

Split...... 123

Worth a Trip g Lokrum Island...... 66

Mljet National Park...... 86

Salona...... 148

Klis Fortress...... 152

Trogir...... 154

Walking Tours c Strolling through Ploče & Viktorija...... 42

Beach-Hopping in Lapad...... 68

Bačvice & Firule Beach Life...... 130

Marjan Hill Hike...... 132

Hvar Town (p101) © SANTIAGO URQUIJO/GETTY IMAGES © 33 Explore Y Dubrovnik Ringed by mighty defensive walls that dip their feet in the cerulean sea, Dubrovnik (population 28,500) encapsulates the very essence of a medieval Mediter- ranean fantasy. The city is simply unique; its beauty is bewitching, its setting sublime. Thousands of visitors walk along its marble streets every day, gazing, gasp- ing and happily snapping away.

Start with a walk around the City Walls (p34) and then descend into the old town to explore its labyrin- thine lanes and the grand spread of its main street, Placa. Take time to visit at least a few of its numerous churches, monasteries and museums, the top options being the Rector’s Palace (p46), War Photo Limited (p46) and the fresco-covered St Ignatius of Loyola Church (p47). Climb up to the cable car and take a ride to the top of Srđ (p40). Finish your day with a stroll through Ploče and Viktorija (p42), ending with a dip at Sveti Jakov Beach (p43).

Getting There & Around Dubrovnik’s old town is compact and car-free. A There’s a major international airport at Čilipi, just south of Dubrovnik. J Coaches head to Dubrovnik from neighbouring countries and from all over Croatia. N From April to November, car ferries travel between Dubrovnik and Bari in Italy. Local ferries link Dubrovnik to various islands and to Split.

Dubrovnik Map on p44

Dubrovnik’s Old Town CGE2010/SHUTTERSTOCK © 71 Explore Y Dalmatian Coast The coast of mainland Dalmatia is a stretch to be savoured by beach seekers, wine lovers and history buffs alike. All along its length, rugged mountains form a dramatic backdrop to a string of historic towns and beautiful pebbly beaches. Although tourism is in full swing here, there’s still plenty of lush Mediterranean greenery to enjoy, including pine forests, olive groves, vineyards and orchards.

Ideally you would throw in some beach time and stretch out your stay over a few days, but you can still see a lot on a single day’s drive up the coast. Start at (p75) then continue up the highway as far as the Pelješac Peninsula, turning off towards Ston. After exploring the walls (p72), stop for an oyster-filled lunch at Kapetanova Kuća (p73). Continue along the peninsula, pausing for a wine tasting (p76) on your way to the car ferry at . Try to squeeze in a quick swim and look around before hitting Omiš in time for dinner.

Getting There & Around J Coaches traverse the coast between Dubrovnik and Split regularly. Some turn inland and travel down the Pelješac Peninsula. N Car ferries head between Orebić and Korčula, Makarska and Brač, and Drvenik and Hvar. From June to September, catamarans also stop in Makarska en route between Split, Bol, Korčula, Mljet and Dubrovnik.

Dalmatian Coast Map on p74

Brela (p82) ANNA LURYE/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top Sights A Ston Walls The economic importance of the salt industry 1 MAP P74, E4 to the (Dubrovnik) led, in Stonske zidine 1333, to the construction of one of the longest adult/child 70/30KN fortifications in , stretching clear across h8am-6.30pm Apr-Oct, the isthmus that connects the Pelješac Peninsula 9am-3pm Nov-Mar with the mainland. Twenty towers and 5.5km of this extraordinary wall are still standing, arching far up the hill between the town of Ston and its diminutive sibling Mali (‘little’) Ston. 91 Explore Y Korčula Town & Korčula Island Rich in vineyards, olive groves and small villages, and harbouring a glorious old town, the island of Korčula is the sixth-largest Adriatic island, stretching nearly 47km in length. Korčula Town is breathtaking. Ringed by imposing defences, this coastal citadel is dripping with history, its marble streets lined with Renaissance and Gothic buildings.

Start by wandering through Korčula’s old town, stop- ping to explore St Mark’s Cathedral (p92) and the Korčula Town Museum (p95). If you’re interested in religious art, call in to the Icon Museum (p95) and Ab- bey Treasury (p93). Take a drive to Konoba Mate (p98) for lunch. Afterwards, head down the steep hill to Pupnatska Luka for a swim before returning to Korčula Town in time for a sunset cocktail at Massimo (p99).

Getting There & Around J Routes connecting Ston, Dubrovnik and Split to Korčula Town use the Orebić car ferry. N Car ferries head between Orebić and Dominče, 3km east of Korčula Town, and between Split and . Catamarans head to Korčula Town’s West Harbour from Hvar and Split year-round, with seasonal services from Dubrovnik, Mljet, Makarska and Bol.

Korčula Town Map on p94

Korčula Town TUUL & BRUNO MORANDI/GETTY IMAGES © Top Sights A St Mark’s Cathedral Dominating the little square at Korčula’s heart 1 MAP P94, C3 is this magnificent 15th-century cathedral, built Katedrala svetog Marka from Korčula limestone in a Gothic-Renaissance Trg Sv Marka style by Italian and local artisans. The sculptural church 10KN, bell tower detail of the facade is intriguing, particularly the adult/child 20/15KN naked squatting figures of Adam and Eve on the h door pillars, and the two-tailed mermaid and el- 9am-9pm Jul & Aug, hours vary Sep-Jun ephant on the triangular gable cornice at the top. 101 Explore Y Hvar Town & Hvar Island Long, lean Hvar is vaguely shaped like the profile of a holidaymaker reclining on a sun lounger, which is appropriate for the sunniest spot in the country. His- toric Hvar Town has swanky hotels, multiple hostels, elegant restaurants, buzzy bars and a general sense that, if you care about seeing and being seen, this is the place to be.

You can knock off all of Hvar Town’s sights in half a day, starting with a hike up to Fortica (p105) before it gets too hot. Wander down through the walled town to St Stephen’s Cathedral (p105) and the Episcopal Museum (p106), then stroll along the waterfront to the Franciscan Monastery (p106). In the afternoon, either head to the Pakleni Islands for some beach time or take a trip to Stari Grad (p108), the island’s oldest town. Aim to be at Hula-Hula Hvar (p111) at sunset. Grab a bite to eat, then join the party crowd at Kiva Bar (p111).

Getting There & Around N Car ferries head to Stari Grad (from Split) and to Sućuraj (from Drvenik). Catamarans head to Hvar Town (from Split and Korčula year-round, and seasonally from Bol, Mljet and Dubrovnik) and Jelsa (from Split and Bol). J Services connect Hvar Town with Stari Grad (30KN, 30 minutes) and Jelsa (33KN, 50 minutes).

Hvar Town Map on 104

Hvar Town XBRCHX/500PX © Top Sights A Pakleni Islands Stretched out in front of Hvar Town, the Pakleni Islands (Pakleni otoci) are a gorgeous chain of wooded isles with crystal-clear waters, hidden beaches and peaceful lagoons. Although the name is often translated as ‘Hell’s Islands’, it’s thought to derive from paklina, a pine resin that was once harvested here to waterproof boats. 113 Explore Y Bol & Brač Island Brač is the largest island in central Dalmatia, with sev- eral towns and villages, and a dramatic landscape of steep cliffs, inky waters and pine forests. The two main centres, and Bol, are quite different: Supetar is pleasant if unassuming, while Bol revels in its more exclusive appeal.

Start with an early-morning swim at Zlatni Rat (p114) before hitting the road and heading to the Blaca Hermitage (p119) and Vidova Gora lookout (p115). Continue on to Supetar for lunch and a quick look around before circling back to Bol via the Island of Brač Museum (p120) at Škrip and Pučišća. That even- ing, see if you can squeeze in a pre-dinner wine tasting at Stina (p117) or a blast around the Branislav Dešković Art Gallery (p117).

Getting There & Around N Car ferries head to Supetar from Split, and to Sumar- tin from Makarska. High-speed catamarans head to Bol year-round from Split and seasonally from Makarska, Hvar, Korčula, Mljet and Dubrovnik J Supetar is the hub, with services to Bol (43KN, one hour) and other towns. A Brač airport, 14km northeast of Bol, only has scheduled flights from mid-May to September.

Bol Map on p116

Bol DREAMER4787/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top Sights A Zlatni Rat Croatia’s most photographed beach extends like 1 MAP P116, A3 a tongue into the sea for about 400m. Despite the hype and constant crowds, the ‘golden cape’ is a gorgeous place. Made up of white pebbles, its elegant tip is constantly shuffled by the wind and waves. Pine trees provide shade and rocky cliffs rise behind it, giving it one of Dalmatia’s loveliest settings. 123 Explore Y Split Croatia’s second-largest city, Split (Spalato in Italian, population 178,000) is a great place to see Dalmatian life as it’s really lived. Always buzzing, this exuberant city has just the right balance between history and modernity. Daily life and commerce hums along within the ancient walls of Diocletian’s Palace as it has done for millennia.

Start by thoroughly exploring Diocletian’s Palace (p124). Take a look around the Split City Museum (p136) and, time allowing, the Gallery of Fine Arts (p136) before heading to the Veli Varoš neighbourhood for lunch at one of its excellent seafood restaurants. Take a stroll up to Marjan Forest Park (p133) for the views. From here you can either press on to Kašjuni beach (p133) for a swim, or wander back down to the city and head to the Archaeological Museum (p138). Finish up with a meal and drink in the old town.

Getting There & Around A Dozens of airlines fly here from all over Europe. J Intercity and international buses arrive at the main bus station beside the harbour. N Split is a major ferry port, with services to Italy, the Dalmatian islands, Trogir, Makarska and Dubrovnik. L Four trains a day travel between Split and Zagreb (194KN, 6½ hours).

Split Map on p134

Trg Republike, Split DREAMER4787/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top Sights A Diocletian’s Palace Taking up a prime harbourside position, this 1 MAP P134, G4 extraordinary complex is one of the most impos- ing ancient Roman structures in existence today, and where you’ll spend most of your time while in Split. Don’t expect a palace, though, nor a museum – this is the city’s living heart, its labyrin- thine streets packed with people, bars, shops and restaurants. Survival Guide Before You Go 160 Book Your Stay...... 160 When to Go...... 160 Arriving in Dalmatia 161 Dubrovnik Airport...... 161 Split Airport...... 161 Brač Airport...... 162 Getting Around 162 Air...... 162 Boat...... 162 Bus...... 162 Car & Motorcyle...... 163 Essential Information 163 Accessible Travel...... 163 Business Hours...... 163 Discount Cards...... 164 Dos & Don’ts...... 164 Electricity...... 164 LGBTIQ+ Travellers...... 164 Money...... 164 Public Holidays...... 165 Tourist Information...... 165 Visas...... 165

Dubrovnik (p33) CHALFFY/GETTY IMAGES © 166 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Language

Croatian pronunciation is not dif- Do you speak (English)? ficult – in the Croatian writing sys- Govorite/ go·vo·ree·te/ tem every letter is pronounced and Govoriš go·vo·reesh its sound does not vary from word li (engleski)? lee (en·gle·skee) (pol/inf) to word. The sounds are pretty close to their English counterparts. I (don’t) understand. Note that in our pronunciation Ja (ne) ya (ne) razumijem. ra·zoo·mee·yem guides zh is pronounced as the ‘s’ in ‘pleasure’. The stressed syllable is indicated with italics in our Eating & Drinking pronunciation guides. What would you recommend? To enhance your trip with a Što biste nam shto bee·ste nam phrasebook, visit lonelyplanet. preporučili? pre·po·roo· com. Lonely Planet iPhone phrase- chee·lee books are available through the

Language Apple App store. What’s in that dish? Od čega se od che·ga se Basics sastoji ovo jelo? sa·sto·yee o·vo ye·lo Hello. Bok. bok Please bring the bill/check. Goodbye. Molim vas mo·leem vas Zbogom. zbo·gom donesite račun. do·ne·see·te Yes./No ra·choon Da./Ne. da/ne Vegetarian meal. Please. Vegetarijanski ve·ge·ta·ree·yan· Molim. mo·leem obrok. skee o·brok Thank you. Hvala. hva·la menu jelovnik ye·lov·neek Excuse me. breakfast doručak do·roo·chak Oprostite. o·pro·stee·te lunch ručak roo·chak Sorry. dinner večera ve·che·ra Žao mi je. zha·o mee ye beer pivo pee·vo My name is … coffee kava ka·va Zovem se … zo·vem se … water voda vo·da What’s your name? Kako se zovete/ ka·ko se zo·ve·te/ tea čaj chai zoveš? zo·vesh (pol/inf) with/ sa/bez sa/bez without ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 169 Index See also separate subindexes for: 5 Eating p172 6 Drinking p173 3 Entertainment p173 7 Shopping p173

A Bellevue Beach 48 Carpe Diem cycling Benedictine Beach 103 Mljet National Abbey Palace 93 Monastery (Sveta Cathedral of St Park 89 accessible travel 163 Marija Island) 87 Domnius 127-9 tours 23 accommodation 160-1 Benedictine Cathedral of the air travel 161-2 Monastery & Assumption D airports 161-2 Gardens (Lokrum (Dubrovnik) 47 Dalmatian Coast Andrijić, Marko 93 Island) 67 Cavtat 56 bicycle travel, see 71-85, 74 Aquarium 37-8 cell phones 26 cycling transport 71 Archaeological children, travel with Biokovo Nature Danče 48

Museum 16-17 Index Park 80-1 (Dubrovnik) 39 Church of the Dingač 76 Blaca Hermitage 119 Archaeological Annunciation Diocletian’s Palace 7, Museum boat travel 22, (Dubrovnik) 50 124-9, 128 (Split) 138 27, 162 Church of the disabilities, travellers Arsenal 106 Bol 113-21, 116 Annunciation with 163 drinking 121 () 120 diving 89 B food 119-21 Church of the Mljet National sights 117-19 Annunciation Park 89 Bačvice 130-1, 130 transport 113 (Supetar) 118 tours 23 Bačvice Beach 131 bookshops 18 Church of the Dominican Banje Beach 43 Brač Island 113-21, Assumption Monastery & bars 14-15, see (Jelsa) 106 116 Museum also Drinking City Bell Tower 48 (Dubrovnik) 49 subindex transport 113 climate 160 Dominican Baška Voda 83 Branislav Dešković coffee 14 Monastery (Bol) beaches 16-17, 20-1, Art Gallery 117-18 Copacabana 118-19 see also individual 82-3 Beach 69 Dominican beaches Bukovac House 56 costs 26 Monastery (Stari Dubrovnik 48 bus travel 162-3 Grad) 108 Hvar Town 107 business hours 163-4 166-7 Donja Banda 76 beer 14, 15 Buža Gate 35 cruises 22 Donji Humac 120 Cultural History Ɖorđić-Mayneri C Park 62 Sights 000 Museum 46 cable car 41 Dragon’s Cave 121 Map Pages 000 currency 26, 164 car travel 163 170

drinking 14-15, see food 10-11, 19, see Hvar Island 101-11, entertainment 99 also beer, wine, also Eating sub- 104 food 96-8 Drinking subindex, index, individual transport 101 shopping 99 individual locations locations Hvar Town 101-11, 104 sights 92-3, 95-6 language 166 language 166 drinking 111 transport 91 driving 163 Fort Bokar 37 food 107-10 Korčula Town Dubrovnik 33-65, , 42 Fort Lawrence 38-9 sights 105-7 Museum 95 44-5 Fort Minčeta 36 transport 101 Kotišina Botanical beaches 48 Fort Revelin 39 Garden 80-1 drinking 54-9 Fort Royal 67 I food 50-4 Fortica 105 L history 37, 52 Icon Museum 95 forts, see Dubrovnik lace 19 shopping 59-65 city walls & forts insurance 163 language 26, 166-7 sights 34-41, 46-50 individual forts Island of Brač Lapad Bay 69 transport 33 Franciscan Museum 120 Lapad Peninsula walking tours 42-3, Monastery & itineraries 24-5 68-9, 68 42 Museum Large Onofrio Dubrovnik city (Dubrovnik) 49 J Fountain 49-50 walls & forts 6, Franciscan 76 34-9, 38 Monastery (Hvar lavender 18 Jelsa 106 Dubrovnik in the Town) 106-7 Lazareti 43 Homeland War 41 Franciscan Jerolim 103 LGBTIQ+ Index Dulčić Masle Pulitika Monastery travellers 164 Gallery 50 () 62 K Little Onofrio Franciscan Fountain 50 Kamerlengo Castle Monastery Lokrum Island 8, 66-7 E 157 (Makarska) 82 Lopud 62 Elafiti Islands 62 Karmen 77 Franciscan Love Stories electricity 164 Kašjuni Beach 133 Monastery Museum 50 entertainment, see (Orebić) 77 Kaštel Gomilica 144 Entertainment Kaštel Lukšić 144 M subindex, G Kaštel Lukšić individual locations Museum 144 Makarska 81-2 Gallery of Fine Episcopal Kaštel Sućurac 144 Makarska Municipal Museum 106 Arts 136 Museum 82 Kaštela 144 etiquette 164 sites Mali Most 87 Kaštilac 144 39, 64, 67, 75, 144 Mali Ston 73 kayak tours 23, 54 F gay travellers 164 Malo Jezero 87 Grand Cipiko Klis Fortress 9, 152-3 ferry travel 162 Manastirine 149 Palace 156 Koločep 62 Firule 130-1, Marinkovac 103 130 Grgur Ninski Komiža 142 Maritime Museum Firule Beach 131 statue 136 60 (Dubrovnik) 38 Five Martyrs Korčula Island 91-9, Basilica 150 Maritime Museum H 94 (Orebić) 77 highlights 6-9 history 96 Marjan Forest transport 91 Sights 000 holidays 165 Park 133 Korčula Town 91-9, 94 Map Pages 000 hotels 160-1 Marjan Hill 132-3, drinking 98 132 171 markets 19 Our-Lady-of- Salona 9, 148-51, St Nicholas’ Church Marmont’s the-Snow 150 (Dubrovnik) 56 Gloriette 157 Monastery 56 Saplunara 89 St Nicholas’ Convent Meštrović, Ivan Ovčice Beach 131 sea urchins 17 (Trogir) 157 93, 133 shopping 18-19, see St Sebastian’s Meštrović P also Shopping sub- Church 156 Gallery 133 St Stephen’s Pakleni Islands 8, index, individual Cathedral (Hvar Meštrović 102-3 locations Kaštilac 133 language 167 Town) 105-6 Palača Dešković 120 Milna 120 Šipan 62 St Stephen’s Church Pasjača 60 (Stari Grad) 108 Mirabela Fortress 84 Šipanska Luka 62 Pelješac Peninsula 76 Stari Grad 108 Mljet National Park Škrip 120 7, 86-9 Pelješac Wine Trail 76 Stina 117 Solana Ston 73 mobile phones 26 Pile Gate 35 Stobreč 85 148-51 money 26, 164-5 planning 160-1 Ston Walls 8, 72-3 Split 123-47, 134-5 motorcycle travel 163 Ploče Gate 35 Suđurađ 62 drinking 140-3 Museum of Modern 85 Šulić Bay 48 entertainment 145 Art 43 Polače 88-9 Sumartin 120 food 138-40 Museums of Polo, Marco 97 Šunj 62 Dubrovnik pass 46 history 127, 129 Porporela 48 Supetar 118 shopping 145-7 Porta Caesarea 150 Sveta Marija Island N sights 124-9, 136-7 Postup 76 87-8 Index Narona Potomje 76 transport 123, 146 Sveti Jakov Archaeological Prapatno 73 Split City Museum Beach 43 Museum 80 public holidays 165 136 Sveti Klement 103 Neum Corridor 78 Pučišća 120 Split Ethnographic Synagogue & Jewish nightlife 14-15, see Museum 137-8 Pulitika Studio 38 Museum also Drinking sub- Split synagogue 127 Punta Rata 82 (Dubrovnik) 49 index, individual Sponza Palace 48-9 locations Pupnat 98 Srđ 9, 40-1 T nude beaches 21 R St Blaise’s taxis 27, 161, 162 Church 48 O telephone services 26 Račić Family St Ignatius of Loyola Temple of Jupiter Omiš 83-5 Mausoleum 56 Church 47 129 opening hours 163-4 Radmanove St Lawrence’s time 26 Orebić 77-9 Mlinice 84 Cathedral (Trogir) top sights 6-9 Orlando Column 48 rafting 84 155 Ragusa 52 St Lawrence’s tourist information Our-Lady-of-Carmel 165 Church (Bol) 118 rakija 14 Church () tours 23, see also Our-Lady-of-Carmel Rector’s Palace 46 110 walking tours Church Roman Palace 88-9 St Luke’s Tower 36 (Dubrovnik) 77 St Mark’s Cathedral transport 27, 161-3 language 167 Our-Lady-of-Health S 8, 92-3 Church 136-7 St Mary’s Island 87-8 Trg Sv Stjepana 105 Our-Lady-of- Sacred Art St Michael’s Trogir 7, 154-7 Museum 156 Mercy Church- Church 84 history 157 Fortress 110 safety 167 172

Trogir Museum 155 weather 160 G N Trogir Town Hall 156 windsurfing 115 Grande Luna 110 Nautika 53-4 Trstenica 77 wine 12-13, 76 Gušt 138 Nishta 51-3 Trstenik 76 Nonica 107 Trsteno 75-6 Z K Trsteno Zlatni Rat 9, 114-15 Arboretum 75 Kapetanova Kuća 73 O Žrnovo 98 Tusculum 149 Kaša Grill & Bar 85 Oliva Pizzeria 53 Tvrdalj 108 Konoba Andiamo 78 5Eating Konoba Belin 98 P U Konoba Dubrava 41 Palmižana Konoba Fetivi 139 Upper Corner A Meneghello 103 Konoba Galija 87 Panorama Tower 39 Aterina 98 Konoba Girasole 149 Restaurant 41 Konoba Kalalarga 82 Pantarul 69 V B Konoba Kopačina 120 Peppino’s 51 Veli Varoš 133 Bastion 84 Konoba Koraćeva Pink Shrimp 51 Velika & Mala Petka Beer Garden 118 Kuća 60 Pizzeria Tabasco 43 Forest Park 69 Bota Šare Oyster & Konoba Mali Raj 115 Pojoda 142 Veliki Revelin Sushi Bar 53 Konoba Marjan 139 Portofino 140 Tower 96 Brasserie on 7 140

Index Konoba Maslina 98 Proto 54 Veliko Jezero 87 Bugenvila 56 Konoba Mate 98 Vid 79-80 Konoba Matejuška R Vidova Gora 115 C 139 Ranč 119 Viganj 79 Chops.Grill 140 Konoba Menego 109 Restaurant 360° 53 Island 142 Croccantino cafe 78 Konoba Ribar 53 visas 26, 165 Restaurant Cukarin 96 Konoba Trs 155 Dubrovnik 54 Vrboska 110 Korta Katarina 77-8 Restoran Perlica 153 D Kruščić 138 W Dalmatino 109 S walking tours 23 Del Posto 83 L Shizuku 69 Bačvice & Firule DiVino 110-11 La Casa 78-9 Stagnum 73 130-1, 130 Dolce Vita 50 La Fabbrica 84 Lapad 68-9, 68 Đuđa i Mate 80 Lacroma T Marjan Hill 132-3, Dvor 131 Restaurant 67 Taverna Riva 119-21 132 LD Terrace 97 Ploče & Viktorija E Lola 108 42-3, 42 V Luka 138 War Photo Eremitaž Restaurant Villa Spiza 139 108 Limited 46 Vinotoka 118 Way of the Cross 41 M F Makrovega 138 Z Fast Food Republic Marco’s 97 Sights 000 Zinfandel 140 50-1 Mizarola 109 Map Pages Zoi 139 000 Fig 107-8 173

Zora Bila 131 Gradska kavana V F Zori 103 Arsenal 58-9 Grgić Vina 76 Varadero 121 Fish Market 146 Vidilica 133 G 6Drinking H Vina Carić 110 Hula-Hula Hvar 111 Vinum Bonum 98 Grad Market 63 3 Pršuta 111 Green Market 147 K Z A Kiva Bar 111 Žbirac 131 K Academia Ghetto Korta Katarina 77-8 Zenta 131 Kawa 43 Club 143 Kutak Knjiga 99 Art Cafe 58 L Auro 115 3 Lix 84 Entertainment L B Luxor 143 Croatian National Little Brothers Theatre Split 145 Pharmacy 61 Bard Mala Buža 54 M Kino Karaman 145 Beer Garden 118 M Malvasija 57 Kinoteka Zlatna Vrata Buža 55 Marcvs Marvlvs 145 Medusa 61 Buzz Bar 57 Spalatensis 140 Moreška Cultural Marinero 121 Club 99 O C Split City Puppet Massimo 99 Index Theatre 17, 145 Old Market 147 Carpe Diem 111 Matuško 58, 76 Cave Bar More 69 R Central Park Club 111 N Cogito 58 7Shopping Romana Atelier 64 Nautica 111 Coral Beach Club 69 S P A Sebastian Art 65 D Algebra 63 Paradox 141 Stjepko Art 65 D16 141 Peninsula 76 Arterija 145 Deep 82 Studio Naranča 146 Dubrovnik Beer R B Factory 55 T Revelin 57-8 Bag & Co 145-6 D’vino 54 Talir 65 Rock Caffe Exit 57 Bonbonnière Kraš 63 Terra Croatica F Dubrovnik 59-60 S C Fabrique 141-3 Think Pink 146 St Riva 143 Croatia Records 147 Fluid 143 Croatian Fashion U Design 64 G T Uje 61, 146 Taverna Gaffe 58 D Domanoeta 76 V Galerija 143 Tavulin 55 Diocletian’s Glam Beer Vina Miličić 65 Teak 143-5 Cellars 146 Therapy 59 Troubadour 59 Dubrovnik Grabovac wine bar 82 Treasures 64 Turjun 84 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 176 Our Writer

Peter Dragicevich After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi wander- lust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his current nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere. Our WriterOur

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