©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd DUBROVNIK & THE DALMATIAN COAST PETER DRAGICEVICH Contents Plan Your Trip 4 Welcome to Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast .......4 Top Sights ............................6 Eating .................................10 Wine ....................................12 Drinking & Nightlife ..........14 For Kids ..............................16 Shopping ............................18 Beaches ............................ 20 Boat Cruises & Rental ..... 22 Walking Tours ................... 23 Four Perfect Days ............ 24 Need to Know ................... 26 Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast Regions ............................. 28 Trogir (p154) JOHN AND TINA REID/GETTY IMAGES © Explore Survival Dubrovnik & Guide 158 the Dalmatian Before You Go ................ 160 Coast 31 Arriving in Dalmatia........ 161 Dubrovnik ......................... 33 Getting Around ...............162 Dalmatian Coast ............... 71 Essential Information ....163 Korčula Town & Language ........................ 166 Korčula Island ...................91 Index .................................169 Hvar Town & Hvar Island ....................... 101 Bol & Brač Island ............ 113 Special Features Split ..................................123 City Walls & Forts ............ 34 Srđ .....................................40 Worth a Trip Strolling through Lokrum Island .................. 66 Ploče & Viktorija .............. 42 Mljet National Park .......... 86 Beach-Hopping in Lapad ............................ 68 Salona ............................. 148 Ston Walls ..........................72 Klis Fortress ....................152 St Mark’s Cathedral ........ 92 Trogir ............................... 154 Pakleni Islands ................102 Zlatni Rat ......................... 114 Diocletian’s Palace .........124 Bačvice & Firule Beach Life ....................... 130 Marjan Hill Hike ...............132 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast If your Mediterranean fantasies feature balmy days by sapphire waters in the shade of ancient walled towns, Dalmatia is the place to turn them into reality. The extraordinary island-speckled coastline is backed by rugged mountains and bookended by two of Croatia’s most intriguing cities: Dubrovnik, to the south, and Split, to the north. Dubrovnik (p33) S-F/SHUTTERSTOCK © CREATIVE TRAVEL PROJECTS/SHUTTERSTOCK © p34 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Publications Planet ©Lonely Dubrovnik City & Forts Walls walls. city finest The world’s Top Sights Top 6 Plan Your Trip Top Sights 7 JAZZMANY/SHUTTERSTOCK © JAZZMANY/SHUTTERSTOCK Diocletian’s Palace A vibrant, living, ancient quarter. p124 Plan Trip Your Top Sights Top MARCUTTI/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES MARCUTTI/GETTY Mljet National Park Forest, lakes and ancient ruins. p86 DREAMER4787/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES DREAMER4787/GETTY Trogir World Heritage walled city. p154 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast Regions Split Klis Fortress Airport E# Trogir#– E# E# Salona BOSNIA & Split (p123) HERCEGOVINA A lively, buzzy city that’s both historic and Brač modern. #–Airport Pakleni E# Islands Ston E# Walls Hvar Town & Hvar Mljet E# Island (p101) National The sunniest spot in the Park country, with elegant restaurants and a E# buzzing nightlife. Bol & Brač Island Lokrum Island #– Dubrovnik (p113) Airport Central Dalmatia’s largest island has dramatic steep cliffs, inky waters and pine forests. Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast Dalmatian Coast (p71) Regions Historic towns and stunning beaches are strung along the Split Klis Fortress coast, with a dramatic Airport E# mountain backdrop. Trogir#– E# E# Salona BOSNIA & HERCEGOVINA Brač #–Airport Korčula Town & Korčula Island (p91) # Pakleni E Historic coastal citadel Islands surrounded by vineyards, olive groves and villages. Ston E# Walls Mljet E# National Park E# Dubrovnik (p33) Lokrum Island #– Dubrovnik A unique, betwitching Airport city in a sublime setting; the essence of a medieval Mediterranean fantasy. Explore Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast Dubrovnik ........................................................33 Dalmatian Coast ..............................................71 Korčula Town & Korčula Island ................... 91 Hvar Town & Hvar Island .............................101 Bol & Brač Island ...........................................113 Split ................................................................. 123 Worth a Trip g Lokrum Island ............................................................66 Mljet National Park ...................................................86 Salona ....................................................................... 148 Klis Fortress ............................................................. 152 Trogir ......................................................................... 154 Walking Tours c Strolling through Ploče & Viktorija ...................... 42 Beach-Hopping in Lapad .........................................68 Bačvice & Firule Beach Life ..................................130 Marjan Hill Hike ......................................................132 Hvar Town (p101) © SANTIAGO URQUIJO/GETTY IMAGES © 33 Explore Y Dubrovnik Ringed by mighty defensive walls that dip their feet in the cerulean sea, Dubrovnik (population 28,500) encapsulates the very essence of a medieval Mediter- ranean fantasy. The city is simply unique; its beauty is bewitching, its setting sublime. Thousands of visitors walk along its marble streets every day, gazing, gasp- ing and happily snapping away. Start with a walk around the City Walls (p34) and then descend into the old town to explore its labyrin- thine lanes and the grand spread of its main street, Placa. Take time to visit at least a few of its numerous churches, monasteries and museums, the top options being the Rector’s Palace (p46), War Photo Limited (p46) and the fresco-covered St Ignatius of Loyola Church (p47). Climb up to the cable car and take a ride to the top of Srđ (p40). Finish your day with a stroll through Ploče and Viktorija (p42), ending with a dip at Sveti Jakov Beach (p43). Getting There & Around Dubrovnik’s old town is compact and car-free. A There’s a major international airport at Čilipi, just south of Dubrovnik. J Coaches head to Dubrovnik from neighbouring countries and from all over Croatia. N From April to November, car ferries travel between Dubrovnik and Bari in Italy. Local ferries link Dubrovnik to various islands and to Split. Dubrovnik Map on p44 Dubrovnik’s Old Town CGE2010/SHUTTERSTOCK © 71 Explore Y Dalmatian Coast The coast of mainland Dalmatia is a stretch to be savoured by beach seekers, wine lovers and history buffs alike. All along its length, rugged mountains form a dramatic backdrop to a string of historic towns and beautiful pebbly beaches. Although tourism is in full swing here, there’s still plenty of lush Mediterranean greenery to enjoy, including pine forests, olive groves, vineyards and orchards. Ideally you would throw in some beach time and stretch out your stay over a few days, but you can still see a lot on a single day’s drive up the coast. Start at Trsteno Arboretum (p75) then continue up the highway as far as the Pelješac Peninsula, turning off towards Ston. After exploring the walls (p72), stop for an oyster-filled lunch at Kapetanova Kuća (p73). Continue along the peninsula, pausing for a wine tasting (p76) on your way to the car ferry at Trpanj. Try to squeeze in a quick swim and look around Makarska before hitting Omiš in time for dinner. Getting There & Around J Coaches traverse the coast between Dubrovnik and Split regularly. Some turn inland and travel down the Pelješac Peninsula. N Car ferries head between Orebić and Korčula, Makarska and Brač, and Drvenik and Hvar. From June to September, catamarans also stop in Makarska en route between Split, Bol, Korčula, Mljet and Dubrovnik. Dalmatian Coast Map on p74 Brela (p82) ANNA LURYE/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top Sights A Ston Walls The economic importance of the salt industry 1 MAP P74, E4 to the Republic of Ragusa (Dubrovnik) led, in Stonske zidine 1333, to the construction of one of the longest adult/child 70/30KN fortifications in Europe, stretching clear across h8am-6.30pm Apr-Oct, the isthmus that connects the Pelješac Peninsula 9am-3pm Nov-Mar with the mainland. Twenty towers and 5.5km of this extraordinary wall are still standing, arching far up the hill between the town of Ston and its diminutive sibling Mali (‘little’) Ston. 91 Explore Y Korčula Town & Korčula Island Rich in vineyards, olive groves and small villages, and harbouring a glorious old town, the island of Korčula is the sixth-largest Adriatic island, stretching nearly 47km in length. Korčula Town is breathtaking. Ringed by imposing defences, this coastal citadel is dripping with history, its marble streets lined with Renaissance and Gothic buildings. Start by wandering through Korčula’s old town, stop- ping to explore St Mark’s Cathedral (p92) and the Korčula Town Museum (p95). If you’re interested in religious art, call in to the Icon Museum (p95) and Ab- bey Treasury (p93). Take a drive to Konoba Mate (p98) for lunch. Afterwards, head down the steep hill to Pupnatska Luka for a swim before returning to Korčula Town in time for a sunset cocktail at Massimo (p99). Getting There & Around J Routes connecting Ston, Dubrovnik and Split to Korčula Town use the Orebić car ferry. N Car ferries head between Orebić and Dominče, 3km east of Korčula Town, and between Split and Vela Luka. Catamarans head to