VOLUME 9 NO. 4 JUNE 25 – JULY 8, 2020 SUBMIT STORIES TO: [email protected] STRIPESKOREA.COM FACEBOOK.COM/STRIPESPACIFIC FREE ShareINSIDE yourINFO piece of paradise with us

BasesPages 12-13 full, stadiums empty Stars and Stripes is asking readers to write about their own piece of paradise. Yes, that means you! Our annual Destination Paradise magazine highlights must-see travel spots across the Pacific — and your bit of paradise could be included in our 2020-21 edition that hits the streets on Pacific bases in September. Submit your story and photos to [email protected] by July 19. We’ll make you famous!

Check out our previous Destination Paradise mags

LET’S JUMP OUT OF APAGES PERFECTLY 8-10 FINE AIRPLANE!

FREE FALLIN’ 2 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC JUNE 25 − JULY 8, 2020 Troops call for action to fight racism

STORY AND PHOTOS BY KIM GAMEL, dubbed “Stronger Together” at STARS AND STRIPES a chapel on Camp Humphreys Published: June 8, 2020 “I feel safer Max D. Lederer Jr. — with everybody in civilian Publisher clothes — after tweeting on CAMP HUMPHREYS — U.S. outside the Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic Friday that he had spoken pri- Commander military leaders have been un- country that Joshua M Lashbrook usually outspoken about the I serve than vately with several black ser- Chief of Staff need to address institutional I do in it.” vice members and had directed Chris Verigan leaders at all echelons to hold Engagement Director racism amid a growing wave – Sgt. Dasha Long, Marie Woods of civil unrest over the latest (Pictured) discussions on the issue. Publishing and Media Design Director killing of a black man in police While the event only drew a Chris Carlson few dozen people in-person, it Publishing and Media Design Manager custody. also was broadcast live on Face- Eric Lee Many black service mem- Advertising and Circulation Manager bers speaking June 7 at a fo- book and had 27,000 views by Enrique “Rick” W. Villanueva Jr. Monday evening. Korea Area Manager rum organized by U.S. Forces Jinsun Song Korea welcomed the outrage Most in the audience wore Operations Manager but called for words to be trans- face masks and every other pew Kentaro Shimura was roped off to prevent the Production Manager lated into deeds. Rie Miyoshi Sgt. Dasha Long, 35, thanked spread of the coronavirus. Engagement Manager U.S. Forces Korea commander “Now, from my time of ser- Denisse Rauda Publishing and Media Design Editor Gen. Robert Abrams for tack- vice I’ve tried real hard to be Publishing and Media Design Writers ling the long taboo topic, saying part of the solution, and it was ChiHon Kim really difficult for me to come to Shoji Kudaka the discussion was an impor- Takahiro Takiguchi tant first step. grasp this week that I have fall- Layout Designers “This isn’t new, right? But it, so I want to know aside from Nearly 19% of active-duty en way short in helping elimi- Mamoru Inoue Yukiyo Oda it feels like it took too long for words what actions are going to enlisted service members are nate racism and bigotry in our Yuko Okazaki us to hear something about it,” take place because I’m tired,” black, but that number falls own ranks,” Abrams said. Kayoko Shimoda she said. sharply to just under 9% when it “Let me be clear about this Multimedia Consultants Long said, wearing a T-shirt Max Genao Doug Johnson emblazoned with the phrase Anger over Floyd’s death, comes to officers, according to - we are better together where Brian Jones Jason Lee which was captured on video, a 2018 Defense Department de- Hans Simpson Chae Pang Yi “I Can’t Breathe,” which was everyone is treated with dig- Gianni Youn Robert Zuckerman uttered by George Floyd be- has sparked massive protests mographics report. Many also nity and respect regardless of Graphic Designers fore he died as a calling for racial complain that they are unfairly the color of their skin, or their Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji justice and an targeted by the military justice Sales Support white Minneapo- EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: gender, or where they practice Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa lis police officer end to police bru- system and receive unfair sen- their faith, or whether they Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro Yusuke Sato Saori Tamanaha kneeled on his tality in the Unit- tences compared to their white practice faith at all, or their Toshie Yoshimizu Un Chong Yu neck for nearly ed States. It also counterparts. gender orientation,” he added. For feedback and inquiries, nine minutes on has led to soul “I also want to be clear about contact [email protected] May 25. searching in the military, which Falling short this. There is zero room, zero, To place an ad, call DSN 755-2255 “I feel safer outside the has long prided itself as promot- Abrams convened the two- stripeskorea.com/contact country that I serve than I do in ing diversity. hour town hall-style meeting SEE ACTION ON PAGE 4 JUNE 25 − JULY 8, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 3 4 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC JUNE 25 − JULY 8, 2020 ACTION: ‘There is zero room for racism’

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 2 In true military fashion, he offered a new acronym, CA- for racism and bigotry and hate REEE, which stands for creat- in the military.” ing a safe space for dialogue, Troops and other members acknowledging the problem, of the military community also recognizing how it’s affecting expressed concern about fami- unit morale, empathizing with lies at home and asked how those affected, emphasizing re- they can express solidarity sources available and empow- without violating regulations ering leaders with knowledge. against political activity. Sgt. Maj. Keyana Washing- The director of USFK’s of- ton, who is assigned to the 65th fice of judge advocate gave Medical Brigade, suggested troops a green light to partici- that the military review the pate in gatherings planned on outcomes and results of past base to denounce racism and courts-martial and nonjudicial social injustice, including a candlelight vigil that he said punishment at all levels to de- was scheduled for June 4 on termine the disparity. Camp Humphreys. The com- “I’m sure they’ll be very munity at Osan Air Base held a similar to what the outcomes candlelight vigil on June 7. are to our society and commu- “You can speak. You can nities at home,” she said. “And when you receive those results shout. You can march. You can U.S. Forces Korea commander Gen. Robert Abrams, far left, leads a panel discussion dubbed “Stronger Together” at Camp protest. You can demonstrate, Humphreys to address concerns about racism in the military. how are we going to change or and you can do all of these reconstruct the military justice things on this and every USFK injustice and systemic racism Starting dialogue Floyd’s killing, but he grew in- system?” installation,” said Col. Robert is a political issue. He said Many black service mem- creasingly frustrated and wor- Abrams promised action. Penland. “I ask only please that troops may wear T-shirts with bers said the forum was the ried for his son and daughter. “This is a small step of a you do not do so in connection slogans like “Black Lives Mat- first time they had felt free to “I’m not an emotional per- larger effort,” he said. “We’re with a particular candidate or ter.” discuss race during long mili- son, but over the past couple going to develop an action plan incumbent in any political of- “That’s not a problem. That’s tary careers. weeks I’ve been a different per- with real meat on the bones to fice.” not a political statement,” he Lt. Col. Nick Williams, who son. It changed me,” he said. “I get after this. We are not going Penland also apologized for said, adding later in an email is assigned to USFK headquar- also started feeling disappoint- to put up with this one second earlier guidance that he said that troops are still barred ters, said he initially v“huddled ed because in the Army we’re longer this time.” may have “inadvertently” cre- from participating in demon- in corners” with other black of- supposed to be better. We’re [email protected] ated the impression that racial strations off base. ficers and civilians to talk about supposed to be a brotherhood.” Twitter: @kimgamel JUNE 25 − JULY 8, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 5

t’s summer PCS season, Within military spouse culture, together like they always have, when 40% of the 400,000 telling tales of moving mishaps to chat around fire pits, bunco Imilitary and DOD civilian is a sort of competitive sport. The Meat and tables, kitchen islands, base moves take place each year. This Kind of like talking about child- housing patios, backyard bar- time brings back memories of birth. The spouse who has en- becues and coffee shops. They our family’s final military move dured the most misery wins. Potatoes of Life will share bottles of wine and in May 2017. It was our 11th in It’s hard to imagine the PCS pots of coffee; they will laugh, 23 years of marriage, and it was experience getting worse for and they will tell miserable pretty much like all the rest — a military families, but thanks Lisa Smith Molinari stressful experience involving to the coronavirus, moving tales about childbirth, deploy- tediousPandemic planning, unexpected hassles have ramps reached epic new up PCS move rivalriesments and PCS moves — just crises, broken levels. The Stop like military spouses have for decades. The only thing that re- and lost belong- Movement Order moved into temporary housing, caused by the COVID-19 shut- ings and physi- announced by then got stuck without their be- down, and provide medical mains to be seen is, now that the cal exhaustion. Secretary of De- longings. Parents can’t register personnel and troops who can pandemic has upped the ante, Like most fense Mark Esper their children for the 2020-21 deploy immediately so that who will win the unspoken com- military spous- in April has been school year because they don’t readiness is not further com- petition over who has endured es, I’ve told extended through know where they will be living. promised. However, moving the most hardship? stories of PCS June 30, causing Kids who planned to enter new priority will go to those who can I, for one, will resist the urge moves to my delays that could schools at the end of summer deploy or fill medical billets, to offer up my often-told PCS friends around last until the end may have to enroll mid-school while waiting families will be stories while in the company of kitchen islands, of the year. year, making it more difficult pushed back in the line. anyone who has endured a PCS bunco tables Two-thirds of Two-thirds for them to adjust socially and The Pentagon says that it will move during the pandemic. Out and backyard PCS moves have patios. Like the of PCS moves been delayed, academically. While Congress is allow 30,000 waiting families of respect, I will graciously con- time the mov- causing a massive working to pass legislation that to be granted waivers to move cede defeat. ers snapped have been backup. Some mil- would provide financial relief to before June 30. However, those But there’s no guarantee I the leg off our itary families who many of the affected families, who are able to move will be won’t try to get back in the game dining room delayed, had already start- uncertainty and stress abounds. required to follow mandatory with a good labor and delivery buffet, or when ed the moving pro- To make matters worse, the coronavirus prevention guide- story. Our firstborn weighed they neglected causing a cess got trapped backup is further complicated lines that could further delay more than nine pounds, so it’s to put our crib in limbo between by the military branches’ ef- the process. No matter which a doozy. back together massive two locations, forts to offer incentives to delay way you cut it, military families Score. when I had a paying double retirements and separations, will endure major PCS hard- Read more of Lisa Smith Molinari’s newborn baby and a toddler,backup. or housing costs due to leases or and to reenlist those who had ships this year. columns at: that move when my husband’s mortgages executed before the already retired or separated. One day, when life returns to themeatandpotatoesoflife.com entire collection of military Stop Movement Order. Others They hope these strategies will some form of normalcy, military Email: meatandpotatoesoflife@ challenge coins disappeared. shipped household goods and balance the drop in recruits spouses will inevitably gather googlemail.com

onto the College Acceptance 6 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC JUNE 25 − JULY 8, 2020 From the Archives On May 14, 1945, Stars and Stripes published its first newspaper in the Pacific. To commemorate 75 years serving the military community in the theater, we’re taking a look back at Stripes history through the writing and photography of a dedicated staff spanning generations. Stars and Stripes has proudly supported the Pacific military community since the beginning and will continue to serve the troops and families at the heart of our work. Pueblo crew of 82 freed by N. Korea BY CRAIG GARNER, by Gen. Woodward said that the the U.S. for the men’s freedom. STARS AND STRIPES Pueblo had illegally intruded After the Pueblo crew was Published: December 24, 1968 into North Korean territorial exchanged at Panmunjom’s waters and conducted espio- joint security area they were PANMUNJOM — The 82 crew- nage activities. scheduled to be taken to the men of the USS Pueblo began Immediately after reading UNC advance camp, four miles their trek to freedom Monday the statement Gen. Woodward south of the truce area. at 11:30 a.m. Korean standard followed up with a repudiation At the advance camp they time across a small footbridge in which he said U.S. authori- were to clean up and be given a nicknamed “the bridge of no re- ties have found “no convincing meal in private. Then they were turn” leading from North Korea evidence that the ship at any to be transported to the 121st to the truce site at Panmunjom. time intruded into the territo- evacuation hospital at ASCOM The march from Commu- rial waters claimed by North near where each crew nist captivity came exactly 11 Korea.” member was to receive a physi- months after North Korean pa- Woodward made it expressly cal examination. trol boats seized the U.S. Navy clear that he signed the Com- A Defense Department intelligence ship off the port of munist document “to free the spokesman said plans called for Wonsan last Jan. 23. crew and only to free the crew.” the crew members to be taken Cmdr. Lloyd M. Bucher, the He explained at a press con- to a U.S. naval hospital in San captain of the Pueblo who came ference after the signing that Diego upon leaving Korea.. under much fire for not putting he did not think it meant “a hu- Their scheduled departure up a struggle at the time of the miliation” for the U.S. govern- time from Korea is still tenta- seizure, was first across the ment. tive, but the spokesman said bridge as a steady snow fell. The U.S. never naturally everyone hoped the He identified EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: did “apologize” for crew would be able to be home the six officers, 74 the alleged intru- for Christmas. enlisted men and sion as the North The Pueblo was seized last two civilians who Koreans had insist- January and precipitated a cri- filed into the Pan- ed in countless pro- sis in the U.S. which saw Presi- munjom Joint Security Council paganda broadcasts. dent Lyndon Johnson activate after him. However, a U.S. Defense over 14,000 Air Force reserv- The body of Seaman Duane Department spokesman said ists and dispatch the nuclear D. Hodges, of Creswell, Ore., the U.S. concurred to sign the aircraft carrier Enterprise off who was seriously injured when “purported agreement” since the coast of North Korea. the ship was captured and died the North Koreans had taken Many U.S. congressmen later, was also returned. a firm stance in the 28 secret Cmdr. Lloyd Bucher talks to the press. Photo by Pete Vegell, Stars and Stripes branded it an act of war and The formal signing of the meetings held at Panmunjom a speedy military buildup in document which handed the since the seizure that “the crew across the Panmunjom confer- he said the U.S. State Depart- was carried out. crew over to the U.S. was con- would be held indefinitely if the ence table North Korea’s Gen. ment had violated the agree- Since then the U.S. and ducted at Panmunjom at 9 a.m. statement was not signed.” Pak told Woodward that “the ment between the two nations North Korean negotiators have Monday between senior United In Woodward’s repudiation crew was in normal condition.” about publicizing the time of been locked in verbal combat Nations command delegate he firmly asserted that “the Woodward said in Pak’s terms the release. However, he later over how and when the surviv- Maj. Gen. Gilbert H. Woodward ship was not engaged in illegal this means the 83 crewmen reneged and delayed the return ing crew members would be and North Korean spokesman activities” and that “he could were in good health. only a half-hour. returned. It appears that the Maj. Gen. Pak Chung Kook. not apologize for action which North Korea’s delegate Gen. Woodward said he was cer- major breakthrough took place In the document prepared he did not believe took place.” Pak during the meeting threat- tain there was no compensation at the 26th Pueblo meeting at by the North Koreans and read At the brief 9 a.m. meeting ened to delay the release since paid to the North Koreans by Panmunjom on Dec. 17. SFC, wounded 9 Times, wants 3rd Korean tour

STARS AND STRIPES Bronze Star with four clusters, and with the Bronze Star and Purple Published: March 15, 1953 the Purple Heart with eight clus- Heart, was awarded during action ters. near Kaesong when he led a platoon CAMP DRAKE, Japan — Fifteen THE DSC, his most recent deco- that annihilated 235 Communists. years of Army service and a chest- ration, was awarded him Ashton received the Sol- ful of decorations, including the na- after his ingenious escape dier’s Medal the year before tion’s second highest award, hasn’t from a Communist PW camp Pearl Harbor while he was satisfied SFC Charles E. Ashton’s in January, 1951, in which he assigned to basic cadre at appetite for a good scrap. The Camp plotted and carried out a res- Camp Polk, La., when he as- Drake military policeman from cue plan for 159 other Amer- sisted in evacuating troops Colton, Cal., has asked to go back to ican prisoners. He had been from a burning barrack. Korea for the third time. interned near Pyongyang for From the North African shores 42 days. Following his escape from where he first saw enemy action Much of his combat expe- the Reds and his ultimate during the second World War, up rience has been with patrols, hospitalization, Ashton re- through Europe, and in the Korean and the Silver Star, Bronze turned to the States in Sep- 75.stripes.com campaign, Ashton has collected Star, and Purple Heart tember, 1951, and again among his other decorations, the awards all resulted from his feats volunteered for Korean service. He Distinguished Service Cross, the while engaged in patrol and scout- was sent to the Far East in Novem- Sgt. 1st Class Charles E. Ashton, at work at Camp Drake, Japan, in Silver Star with three Oak Leaf ing activity. One of the Silver Stars, ber, 1952, and assigned to the MP March, 1953. Clusters, the Soldier’s Medal, the which he received simultaneously detachment at Camp Drake. JUNE 25 − JULY 8, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 7 Beautiful sunsets at Amisan Mountain HAPS KOREA MAGAZINE to view the mouth of the Nakdonggang Riv- before sunset. As the sun falls across the er. Nakdonggang River, a breathtaking view ome of Busan’s finest, most awe-in- The Nakdong Estuary Delta was desig- of blazing scarlet over the river emerges. spiring sunsets can be found on Da- nated as a natural monument Besides the incredible nature, S daepo Beach, in Saha-gu (district), that has allowed more than exhibitions on the Nakdonggang located in the far southwestern corner of 100,000 migratory birds, includ- Sand Island and migratory birds the city. Perhaps even finer are those that ing a wild goose and whooper are available in the observatory can be viewed close by and a bit higher up, swan to take up residence. Sev- building. Additionally, another ob- at Amisan Mountain Observatory Park. eral sand islands were formed at hapskorea.com servatory deck is on the rooftop to Located between Lotte Castle apart- a point where the Nakdonggang observe the Nakdonggang River. ments and Molundae Apartment in Dadae- River and the southern sea meet, making Geojedo Island, Busan Harbor, even the HOURS: 9 dong (neighborhood), Amisan Mountain for a most charming view. Sasang area can be seen from here when a.m. to 6 Observatory Park might be the best place Head to Amisan in the late afternoon, just the weather is clear. p.m. Entry available until 5 p.m. Closed Mondays. ADDRESS: 77, Dadaenakjo 2-gil, Saha-gu HOW TO GET THERE: Dadaepo Beach Station (Metro line 1), exit 1. Walk 15 minutes toward Molundae Apartment. The observatory deck can be seen after passing by the apartment. 8 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC JUNE 25 − JULY 8, 2020

BY CHIHON KIM, STRIPES KOREA

fter dipping my toes into indoor skydiving last year, trying the real thing went on my bucket list. If it was as exhilarating as indoor sky- diving, I knew that I would eventually just have to take the plunge— A literally — out of a plane. Sky Adventure, a drop zone in Chungju, hosts first-timers and also has a school where you can take courses to become a professional skydiver. Despite my slight fear of heights, I felt safe strapped to my experienced in- structor when, together, we jumped out of a perfectly functioning plane at the height of 10,000 feet. The thrill of the freefall of speed up to 200 kph and the breathtaking views of Namhan River and the mountain ranges surrounding the drop zone are indescribable; you just have to try it for yourself! It was one of the most amazing things that I have ever done in my life.

Sky Adventure is housed in- side an old schoolhouse with plenty of parking. After I ar- rived for myT assigned reservaE- tionA time and signed a waiver, M Take off I s e AdLrenaTline junki I was transported to the drop- U zone by an off-road truck. It HE was a bumpy ride that felt like T being in a monster truck. E NOnce I arrivedA at theL drop IN RUSH REzone, I convinced myself that AD it was a perfect day for skydiv- ing. The sun was shining, the weather was warm, and the sky was a bright, clear blue. I passed others who had just landed from their jumps and they were beaming from the adrenaline. The instructors who have jumped dozens of time, didn’t seem any less excited to jump with the newcomers they would soon be taking up. At the drop zone, I was introduced to the USPA (United Stated Parachute Association)-certified tandem instructor who would accompany me throughout my entire skydive and assigned to a group. My instructor Lee Dong-woo assisted me with my gear. After a short safety briefing, there was a 30-minute break until it would be our turn to board the plane.

PRICE nA COURSE: 2,300m at 480,000 won (freefall for 20 to 30 seconds) nB COURSE: 2,800m at 550,000 won (freefall for 40 seconds)

VIDEO&PHOTO PACKAGE nOPTION#1: 55,000 won (Selfie video) nOPTION#2: 165,000 won (Professional outside video) nOPTION#3: 220,000 won (Professional outside video plus DSLR photography) nDISCOUNTS: 2 People: 10,000 won off per person, 4 People: 20,000 won off person, 6+ People: Free Selfie Video

REQUIREMENTS & AGE LIMIT nPLEASE NOTE: You should be at the drop zone at least one hour prior to your booked slot. nMust be at least 16 years of age or older. (Parent or legal guardians consent required for ages under 18) nMaximum weight limit is 100 kg (There is an additional 100,000 won fee for any tandem student weighing between 90 to 100 kg.) nAbsolutely NO alcohol or drugs in your body before doing a tandem skydive. nPlan to spend at least 1 to 4 hours at the drop zone for the whole experience.

nADDRESS: 19-1, Danam-gil, Angseong-myeon, Chungju-si, Chungcheongbuk-do Use Waze to drive to 스카이어드벤처 (Skydiving Korea): https://waze.com/ul/hwydgdfuj0 nOPERATION HOURS: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. nWEBSITE: www.skyadventure.co.kr nTEL:1588-8715 nE-MAIL: [email protected]

Photos courtesy of Sky Adventure JUNE 25 − JULY 8, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 9

Lee dragged me to the edge of the door and put me in posi- tion with my body leaning half out of the plane. I saw the pho-

tographer hanging by the door 10 ready to jumpT haheade jandum capp- ture the moment on camera. The anticipation was high as we walked on the runway towards the air- As I started thinking about craft that would take us up, but not bring us down. I sat in front of Lee as how crazy I was for doing this, he adjusted the straps to ensure we would be in tandem when we jumped. Lee yelled out “Banana posi- Other skydivers also boarded with their instructors. As we lifted off and got tion!” This position was one I ATE higher and higher above the ground, my anxiety also began to rise. learned during the safety brief- “What if the parachute doesn’tff open?” IM Take o ing which involves tilting your T “What if the strap gets undone?” L head back and arching your U No sooner had these thoughts started when I felt Lee start pulling on the E back and helps keep the diver H harnesses to ensure I was strapped in tightly. I knew I was in safe hands, in a position so the instructor can maneuver. but I couldn’t help T NE R Almost immediately after getting into the banana position, I found my- LI but feel nervous. He US NA H self free-falling at a frantic pace. In a split second, my heart pounded so E tapped my shoulder R hard I thought it was going to burst so I let out a scream, “Ahhhhh!” D and said, “Don’t be A We reached astonishing velocity and an extreme adrenaline rush set in nervous, now it’s – I couldn’t help but smile. After those first few seconds, the initial fear dis- time to get your gog- appeared with the wind and it turned gles on.” When he to pure excitement. “I’m flying!” said this, I was sud- The strong wind on my body and denly conscious of loud sounds were a slight reminder of my rising heart rate. last year’s indoor dive but multiplied I had started the by much more. Lee soon opened the trip joking around parachute and our trajectory signifi- with the other in- cantly slowed. structors, mak- Overwhelmed with what just hap- ing funny faces for pened during the last 40 seconds or so, the camera, but as I realized I was still hundreds of feet soon as my goggles in the air and had time to enjoy the were on, I froze scenery. Lee gave me a high five and from nerves. Soon, I let me control the canopy for a while. heard the in-flight beeping indicating we had reached the altitude of 10,000 I couldn’t stop smiling and I don’t think I stopped until we hit the ground. feet. “Dang-it! I don’t think I’m going to make it.” Soon, the dive was over as quickly as it had started. Only a few minutes When the door opened, I could feel the cold air rushing in and felt my before I landed, I had been sitting on a plane a little terrified to be 10,000 heart beating even faster than earlier. I could see the

feet above Earth. Now back on the ground, I felt a sense of accomplishment. ON PAGE SEE CAFÉ DIA AND OPTIMUS PRIME FROM JUNKYARD PRICE ground beneath me. “This is no joke!” I thought to my- It was such an amazing experience that I will carry with me for the rest nA COURSE: 2,300m at 480,000 won (freefall for 20 to 30 seconds) self. Two-by-two instructors and their divers pushed out of my life. It’s an expensive activity, but definitely one for the books. nB COURSE: 2,800m at 550,000 won (freefall for 40 seconds) of the plane, disappearing from view. [email protected]

VIDEO&PHOTO PACKAGE nOPTION#1: 55,000 won (Selfie video) nOPTION#2: 165,000 won (Professional outside video) nOPTION#3: 220,000 won (Professional outside video plus DSLR photography) nDISCOUNTS: 2 People: 10,000 won off per person, 4 People: 20,000 won off person, 6+ People: Free Selfie Video

REQUIREMENTS & AGE LIMIT nPLEASE NOTE: You should be at the drop zone at least one hour prior to your booked slot. Check it out nMust be at least 16 years of age or older. (Parent or legal guardians consent required for ages under 18) nMaximum weight limit is 100 kg (There is an additional 100,000 won fee for any tandem student weighing between 90 to 100 kg.) nAbsolutely NO alcohol or drugs in your body before doing a tandem skydive. nPlan to spend at least 1 to 4 hours at the drop zone for the whole experience. nADDRESS: 19-1, Danam-gil, Angseong-myeon, Chungju-si, Chungcheongbuk-do Use Waze to drive to 스카이어드벤처 (Skydiving Korea): https://waze.com/ul/hwydgdfuj0 nOPERATION HOURS: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. nWEBSITE: www.skyadventure.co.kr nTEL:1588-8715 nE-MAIL: [email protected] 10 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC JUNE 25 − JULY 8, 2020

Photos by ChiHon Kim, Stripes Korea

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 9

nce the adrenaline rush from mountains, as this café on the banks of jumping out of a plane began to a small stream offers a great view of the O settle, I needed a warm cup of tea landscape. to help put my mind at ease. There was My appetite was piqued once the ten- no way I could handle a full meal after all sion in my body started to subside. I went that excitement. Five minutes away from for a homemade Italian lemon cake for Sky Adventure drop zone, DIA is proba- 6,000 won. The citrusy dessert wasn’t too bly only one of the best coffee shops that sweet and didn’t overpower the flavor of serve up great drip coffee in this seclud- the delicate magnolia tea. ed neighborhood. Both the tea and the cake were great I was greeted by the café owner and choices, but the star of DIA is their drip after explaining what I had just done, coffee made from Ethiopian coffee beans. ADDRESS: 574-83, Jeomdong-ro, she suggested the magnolia flower tea I gave in and had a cup of coffee as well Jeomdong-myeon, Yeoju-si, Gyeonggi-do (8,000 won, or $6.28).Café Mang-Gea, the andDIA was glad I did. Check this out-of-way USE WAZE TO DRIVE TO 카페 디아(DIA): café’s adopted shelter poodle, might beg coffee shop when you find yourself in the https://waze.com/ul/hwydgd6btg you to play while you wait. I enjoyed solitary village of Chungju. TEL: 031-822-2136 my cup watching the sunset behind the – ChiHon Kim, Stripes Korea

n my drive home, there was quite a site that stopped me in my tracks. About Ofour or five enormous robots made out of car parts looking like they’d come out of a Transformers movie on the side of the road. I just had to pull over and see what they were all about. These art sculptures stand tall in a junk- yard where artist Jin Gi-yun finds parts to create them. As luck would have it, the artist was in and allowed me to step inside and get a closer look. Aside from the Optimus Prime- like sculpture, he had other art pieces made of recycled materials. “I’ve been doingJunkyard this for over 20 years. gems ADDRESS: 372-1, Yongpo-ri, Angseong-myeon, Chungju-si Some people looked down on my work because USE WAZE TO DRIVE TO 정크아트 사람 냄새 : it was made of car https://waze.com/ul/hwydg4vney parts,” he said. CONTACT INFO CELL PHONE: 010-4313-6689, “But my philoso- E-MAIL: [email protected] phy about my work is not about what materials are used low iron fence was a unique gallery-like work- to make the sculp- place full of childhood wonder and artistry. tures, but the pro- If you have kids, or you are a big kid like me, cess.” check out this fun workplace, just a 10-minute The small yard drive from the Sky Adventure drop zone. surrounded by a – ChiHon Kim, Stripes Korea

Seu-ka-i da-i-bing hae-bon jeok A-ni-yo, i-sseo-yo? jeo-neun go-so SPEAKIN’ KOREAN gong-po-jeung-i iss-eo-yo. n It’s great weather for skydiving! Seu-ka-i da-i-bing-ha-gi ttak joh-eun nal-ssi-ya! n Have you gone sky diving before? Seu-ka-i da-i-bing hae-bon jeok i-sseo-yo? n No, I haven’t. I have acrophobia. A-ni-yo, jeo-neun go-so gong-po-jeung-i iss-eo-yo. n I haven’t, but I’ve always wanted to try sky diving. Hae-bon-jeok eop-seoyo. Ha-ji-man jeo-neun hang-sang seu-ka-i-da-bing-eul he-bo-go si-peo-sseo-yo. n I’ve been sky diving before. Hae-bon-jeok i-sseo-yo. n It makes me nervous every time. Hal ttae-ma-da gin-jang dwae-yo. n It was one of the best experiences I’ve ever had! Je in-saeng chhoe-go-ui gyeong-heom-i-eot-sseo-yo! n We are going to go skydiving this weekend. I-beon ju ju-mal-e seu-ka-i-da-i-bing ha-leo gal geo-e-yo. n Do you want to go with me? Ga-chi gal-lae-yo? JUNE 25 − JULY 8, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 11 Korea websites worth bookmarking

Stripes.com and StripesKorea.com are of course Korea 4 Expats is a cornucopia of English- the most accessible sources of military and local language information – from events and public military community news, respectively. More transportation to business and daily life – for English- and Korean language newspapers can foreigners living in the ROK. www.korea4expats. be accessed online via: www.w3newspapers.com/ com south-korea Korea.Net is a government-run English site that Bustago is an integrated electronic service for has breaking news, features and great information intercity buses. It offers mobile and Internet on the history of Korea. www.korea.net/index.jsp intercity ticket reservations and home ticketing Life in Korea is a great source for finding out more without visiting terminals. www.bustago.or.kr/ about the local scene – from sports, shopping, Easy Korean Food is for do-it-yourselfers, offering travel – even food. Just select a food type from a plethora of Korean recipes for those who want to “Grilled,” “Soups,” etc. for the pronunciation cook Korean food at home. www.easykoreanfood.com and specific descriptions of what you are about to E law is for those who like to invest in Korea enjoy. www.lifeinkorea.com and anyone who lives in Korea. It offers a good Live in Korea is a Ministry of Gender Equality breakdown of Korean law. https://elaw.klri.re.kr/ and Family run website. It has comprehensive eng_service/main.do information on daily life in Korea, from Korean klaguru is run by a Korean attorney addressing language to culture. www.liveinkorea.kr legal issues covered by the media and daily life Seoul Eats is a comprehensive collection of examples of Korean law. This website specializes restaurant reviews that lets users search and in criminal law, criminal procedure code and penal read about eateries by type of cuisine, location responsibility. https://klawguru.com/ and price. Users can also post their own reviews. Ride out the Gb is a local government run website in www.seouleats.com Gyeongsangbuk-do area, offering information My Korean Eats is not your ordinary food website. storm with Dave about local festivals, events, government activities They provide authentic Korean cooking recipes, Dave Ornauer has been with Stars and Stripes more. gb.go.kr/eng/main.jsp food reviews and food photography. http:// since 1981, and one of his first assignments as Haps Korea, if you’re visiting Busan, has you mykoreaneats.com/ a beat reporter in the old Japan News Bureau covered on what’s happening there. hapskorea.com Seoul Magazine, though apparently not regularly was “typhoon chaser.” Pacific Storm Tracker Daegu Compass is for foreigners who live in updated, offers a wealth of articles on this city’s is designed to take the technical weather lingo Daegu, offering local news and features on travel, culture, sites, fashion, food and more. www. and simplify it for the average Stripes reader. food and culture. https://daegucompass.com/ seoulselection.com www.stripes.com/blogs/pacific-storm-tracker Hike Korea is a great little website for the serious Seoul Metro provides details on the city’s subway and casual hiker alike to start researching their system including maps, fares, timetables – even next walkabout in the Land of the Morning Calm. commuter etiquette. Choose English at the top of www.hikekorea.com the homepage. www.seoulmetro.co.kr Hostels: Seeing South Korea on a shoestring budget is ShipitAPO helps ensure that online shopping is a better experience if you are well rested. In Korea alive and well in Korea. www.shipitapo.com/home. you can find accommodations well below $20 per php person per night. www.hostels.com/south-Korea Templestay is a way to get away from the rat H ticket offers information about express buses of race and find some inner calm by participating in 42 routes throughout the country. If you are unable temple life. This experience is not for everyone, to find a suitable bus for your travel, check this but for some it is a real vacation. eng.templestay. website out. www.hticket.co.kr com Imagine Your Korea is the Korea Tourism The Jeju Weekly is more than this resort island’s Organization’s official site. It is an inexhaustible only English newspaper. It has comprehensive source of detailed information on what The Land of news and information on all things Jeju – from arts, the Morning Calm has to offer – attractions, natural culture and conventions to tourism, attractions beauty, hotels, travel, shopping and more. english. and business. www.jejuweekly.com visitkorea.or.kr The Man in Seat Sixty-One is a British creation Korea Blog is a well-honed collection of polished devoted to travel by train, bus and ferry. As such, prose that offers valuable insights on all things it is a portal to sites with this kind of travel and Korea – travel, culture, art and more. Koreanetblog. schedule info to and from, as well as within, South blogspot.jp/ Korea. www.seat61.com/SouthKorea.htm Adventurekorea allows you to sign up for events, daily trips, team building activities, as well as customize your own trip. www.adventurekorea.com/ 10 Magazine is more than the sum of its parts

Recommended apps with regularly updated events, ranging from high KakaoTalk If you are traveling on the art and fun for the family to concerts, films and train, there is a handy mobile app nightlife. 10mag.com that will help you navigate the rail is for those who like exploring a system in English. Set the app to Zen Kimchi English and off you go. You can book country through its food. It offers restaurant a ticket on the app and just show your reviews and info on food-related events and tours. reservation info from the phone if the zenkimchi.com train employee asks for your tickets. Gmarket is a shopping site based in Korea. Like KakaoMap Google Maps app does not the online shopping sites in States, you can find work on the peninsula. Try KakaoMap all the categories you can think of, with a large instead. KakaoMap will automatically choice of Korea-made goods to choose from. track your current location, calculate and show an approximate distance to global.gmarket.co.kr/Home/Main the final destination.

KakaoMetro KakaoMetro offers accurate estimated fares and quickest routes to get home. The app also provides real-time subway information based on location, and also lets you set an alarm so you know your stop is coming up. The app will even tell you which door leads to the fastest transfer during high-traffic commutes.

Overlooking Jeju island’s coast. Photo by Brigitte Patton 12 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC JUNE 25 − JULY 8, 2020

Cute dolls sent by fans filled the stands of the Eagles Park in a game between Hanwha Eagles and in Daejeon, Jun 3. Photo courtesy of SPOTV Sometimes it takes a bow

Crazy cheering crowds

BY CHIHON KIM, STRIPES KOREA

s South Korea does its best get things back to A normal, baseball fans can let out a cheer because the Ko- rean Baseball Organization, the country’s professional baseball league, has started its season. For now, you won’t be able to go a stadium to watch the action. Instead, you can turn on ESPN, which started airing KBO games Photo courtey of Kiwoom Heroes in May to try to fill the void left by canceled or postponed profes- sional sports in the States, includ- ing Major League Baseball. If you’ve ever caught a game of Korean baseball you may have noticed Ko- Photo courtesy rean players flipping their bat after hitting a home run or even a foul ball. You of may have expected the player to get beaned with ball in his next at bat for show- Photo courtesy of ing up the pitcher, which is common place in the States. Gunpra Lab However, bat-flipping is not tabooan in a Korea.rt f oIt! is commonly referred to as “ppa- ng L rm lippLi in Bat-f Korea Bdun,” whichA is a compound slang word that combines the first syllables of the Y words for “ppatta” and “dunjigi.” “Ppatta” is a Japanese way of saying “bat” in A Korea, and “dunjigi” means “throw.” L No one knows when this antic became a common occurrence in KBO, but it has since become a fan favorite. In Korea, bat-flipping is considered a skill, and Baseball in Korea is relativelyP new in comparison to the long history of the how it will be executed and by which player is always highly anticipated by fans. sport in the U.S. Chun Doo-hwan, a former South Korean soldier who came to power through a military coup in 1979, used baseball as a strategy to distract the The difference in eti- public from his politics. He promised various tax breaks to big companies in re- quette between the Amer- turn for the funding14 a 4pro g baseballame teams s and,ch toe thisdu day,le dyou’ll find many teams ican and Korean baseball in Korea are named after and owned by large companies. is something Korean play- The league, which made its debut in 1982 and has grown to 10 teams, is slated ers with aspirations of play a 144-game season this year. joining the MLB have to KBO and MLB consider. A notable exam- are both professional ple is Park Byung-ho, 33, baseball league, but a slugger and one of the each has its different most entertaining bat flip- rules and culture, and, pers in KBO history. He of course, the quality had a hard time getting of play in MLB can’t rid of the habit of hitting be matched by its home runs and throwing Korean counterpart. bats right after he was But that doesn’t mean offered to join the KBO isn’t entertain- Minnesota Twins in ing. the MLB league. Photo courtesy of ESPN JUNE 25 − JULY 8, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 13

Another unwritten rule in KBO is when a pitcher hits a I love baseball batter. The pitcher apologizes by taking off his hat and giv- Jeo-neun ya-gu-reul ing the hitter a slight nod to avoid a bench-clearing brawl. joa-hae-yo. It is also common in Koreas i tfor t pitchersak to show respect to the homeSom platee tumpireime by taking off theires hats a andbo bowingw to- Baseball banter Who’s your favorite player? ward the ump before the game starts. You won’t see that in the Je-il joa-ha-neun seon-su-neun MLB, well, unless it’s by a Korean player. Park Chan- nu-gu-eyo? ho, a former MLB pitcher who joined the LA Dodgers Speakin’ Who’s your favorite team? in the 90s, made headlines Eo-tteon tim-eul je-il joh-a-ha-se-yo? for greeting the MLB ump Korean the way he always did in Who’s the best bat flipper? Korea. During games in Korea, young players also Eo-tteon seon-su-ga bae-teu-peul-lib-eul show their respect to older, je-il jal-hae-yo? more established players, Photo courtey of KBO in the same way. Look at the crowd! Jeo-gi gwan-jung-deul bo-se-yo!

Korean base- ball fans are known for their unique way of cheering. raThiszy cheering crowds season, youC won’t find spectators in the stadium stands, only ban- ners with images of the crowd. But, KBO fans are known for Photo courtesy of their boisterous cheers. Each team has its own team anthem and fans shout them- selves hoarse during games. Oh, and similar to baseball in Japan, Korea teams have their own cheerleaders. The cheer- leader and fans’ chants might be more closely aligned with those soccer stadium or concert than a professional baseball game. Even if you are not a die-hard baseball fan like me, just give the highlights of the bat-flip footage a watch on YouTube or on ESPN. You’ll soon realize why bat flipping and the KBO culture are worth tuning in to see. And besides, who knows when MLB will begin its season. [email protected] BALL! PLAY

Stripes Korea is A Stars and Stripes Community Publication. This newspaper is authorized for are located. The appearance of advertising in this publication, including inserts or supplements, publication by the Department of Defense for members of the military services overseas. However, does not constitute endorsement of those products by the Department of Defense or Stars and the contents of Stripes Korea are unofficial, and are not to be considered as the official views of, Stripes. Products or services advertised in this publication shall be made available for purchase, or endorsed by, the U.S. government, including the Department of Defense or the U.S. Pacific Command. As a DOD newspaper, Stripes Korea may be distributed through official channels and use use, or patronage without regard to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, marital status, appropriated funds for distribution to remote and isolated locations where overseas DOD personnel physical handicap, political affiliation, or any other nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron. 14 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC JUNE 25 − JULY 8, 2020 17 photo hotspots in Gyeongnam

HAPS KOREA MAGAZINE Dal Park, Tongyeong — A popular spot for photographers for its spectacular sunrise and sunset. yeongnam province has recently released a list Seopirang, Tongyeong G of 17 hotspots for wed- — Its western slope facing the mural village has always been a couple’s favorite photo ding photos and for couples spot. looking for a great Instagram- worthy shot. Namildae Beach & Elephant Rock, Sacheon As many couples have had — A popular nature spot with clear blue skies and sandy beaches along with the fa- to change their wedding plans mous elephant rock. due to coronavirus, many have turned to local destinations to Daeseong-dong Ancient Tombs, Gimhae get a great photo to create new — The small hills provide an exquisite backdrop for any photos. Sacheon City Photos by Wendy Corniquet, Pixabay memories. The 17 hotspots include: Bonghwang-dong Ruins, Gimhae — Blue skies provide a scenic backdrop to the popular photo location for couples.

Flower Saemaul Village, Milyang — Located on the mountainside, fairytale photos can be had from the flowers and mountain landscape.

Geunpo Village Cave, Geoje — A recent resurgence in tourism has made it one of the hotspots on Korean SNS for couples.

Wind Hill, Geoje — A spectacular backdrop for photos has made it a popular place for couples for years. Wind Hill hapskorea.com Goryeo Historic Site, Haman — Historical sites provide a unique backdrop, and this 600-year-old entrance is no different.

Hakdong Village Stone Wall Road, Goseong — A unique stone wall with a footpath provides fantastic shots.

Horticultural Art Village, Namhae — Various gardens around the site provide beautiful photos for couples.

Maeam Tea Garden, Hadong — Beautiful tea gardens add amazing color to any couple’s photos.

Namsayedam Village, Sancheong — Designated the number 1 small village in Korea, the coniferous tree has been a Hadong Bukcheon Cosmos and Buckwheat Festival favorite destination for new couples for years.

Gyeongnam Hamian Wine Valley, Hamyang province — Enjoy a glass of wine with the beautiful shots of the wine region. Lee Sumi Farmberry, Gocheong — A healing complex cultural space with attractive pensions and farmhouse cafes.

Video Theme Park, Hapcheon — A popular and unique wedding photo site that lets you recreate the appearance of years gone by with unique costumes.

Hapcheon Hwangmaesan, Sancheong — Silver grass and the green summer plains have made here one of the top hotspots for couple photos. Hapcheon-gun JUNE 25 − JULY 8, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 15

Before 2014, this university didn’t have a former player enshrined in the NFL Hall of Fame. Since then, the school has become the alma mater of a pair of Hall-of-Famers, including the only punter, Ray Guy. The other guy followed a couple years later when the “There’s Something About Mary” star, Brett Favre, got in. Which school did the two play for?

Stripes Sports TriviaMississippi Southern of University

Answer Biweekly Crossword - Week of 6/22/20

Crossword by Margie E. Burke ACROSS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

1 Parks in 1955 14 15 16 news 5 Playful water 17 18 19 critter 20 21 22 10 Picnic staple 14 Comic strip 23 24 penguin 25 26 27 28 29 30 15 Most writing DID YOU 16 First-rate 31 32 33 34 17 Card balance KNOW? 18 Carry out (crime) 35 36 37 38 39 20 Install as king 40 41 42 43 44 22 Set up, perhaps 23 Touch up, as 45 46 47 48 n South Korea, a one-on-one text 49 50 blind date called ‘So-Gae- 24 Hammerhead Ting,’ is a common way to part 51 52 53 54 55 56 Thanksgiving Imeet potential future girlfriend 25 57 58 59 or boyfriend. This is set up by Day event 60 61 62 a mutual friend and the two 27 Milton's "_____ Lost" 63 64 65 strangers agree to meet only 31 Little helper with limited information about 32 Earliest stage Copyright 2020 by The Puzzle Syndicate the other. 34 1,000 kilograms 35 Bit of slander 3 Deceptive action 38 WWII's Rosie 52 Nothing other 37 That group's 4 Bronchial and others than 39 Close in on disorder 41 Greg Louganis, 53 Like some 40 Behind bars 5 Frazier, to Ali e.g. proportions 42 Steer clear of 6 Pollster's find 43 Cable competitor 54 Parasitic insect 44 Caesar's seven 7 Damaged, as a 46 Securing strip 55 Emulate Pisa's 45 Not fit to eat ligament 48 PC start-over tower 47 Full of testoster- 8 Psychic ability 50 Filled with ennui 56 Uber rival Hangul of one 9 Pot, in the past 51 Loads from 58 "Take ___" 노인 49 Planetary path 10 Costner's "Bull lodes the week 50 Plague Durham" co-star noin (old people) 51 Egg entree 11 Fertile soil 54 Closet repellent 12 Penny ___ Answers to Previous Crossword: 57 Bag of tricks 13 Hoe target A D A M S H A F T A R U M 59 Do as directed 19 Grab the tab C O L A C O C O A C O P E Language Lesson 60 One of the 21 Start over H E L M O P E N S E A S O N Waltons 24 Place for a E R E M I T E D E A D E N D 61 Key word pergola G A D P A R S E 62 Norwegian king 25 "GoodFellas" S T I L E T T O E M M A Me too. 63 Broken-off Oscar winner E R A A U S T R A L I A N S branch 26 Detective R U N G B A T O N A R G O 64 Has to have Pinkerton A C C E L E R A T O R I S M Biweekly Sudoku - Week of 6/22/20 65 Camping shelter 27 Grievance K E N O G E N E R A T E 28 Sure to happen D O W S E N A B Jeodo(yo). DOWN 29 Kind of mail O R G A N I C R E T R E A T 1 Was a 30 Chill-inducing F A I R Y T A L E S E L M O passenger 33 Must, in legalese F I R M C R E E P S L O P 2 Start the bidding 36 Reminiscent S L O E H E A D Y T O S S

SUDOKU Edited by Margie E. Burke Difficulty: Medium HOW TO SOLVE: 1 2 Each row must contain the numbers 1 to 9; each column must contain the numbers 1 to 9; and 5 4 1 3 each set of 3 by 3 boxes must 7 6 contain the numbers 1 to 9. 3 7 5 Answers to Previous Sudoku: 7 2 6 9 4 1 5 3 8 3 8 2 1 9 8 5 6 3 4 2 7 4 5 3 8 7 2 9 6 1 7 5 5 1 4 2 9 7 6 8 3 6 2 8 8 6 2 3 1 4 7 5 9 9 3 7 6 5 8 2 1 4 2 1 6 7 1 4 8 5 3 9 2 3 8 9 1 2 8 9 7 3 6 1 4 5 Copyright 2020 by The Puzzle Syndicate 3 4 5 1 2 9 8 7 6

16 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC JUNE 25 − JULY 8, 2020