Let's Bet on Sediments!
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Load more
Recommended publications
-
Continental Shelf the Last Maritime Zone
Continental Shelf The Last Maritime Zone The Last Maritime Zone Published by UNEP/GRID-Arendal Copyright © 2009, UNEP/GRID-Arendal ISBN: 978-82-7701-059-5 Printed by Birkeland Trykkeri AS, Norway Disclaimer Any views expressed in this book are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views or policies of UNEP/GRID-Arendal or contributory organizations. The designations employed and the presentation of material in this book do not imply the expression of any opinion on the part of the organizations concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area of its authority, or deline- ation of its frontiers and boundaries, nor do they imply the validity of submissions. All information in this publication is derived from official material that is posted on the website of the UN Division of Ocean Affairs and the Law of the Sea (DOALOS), which acts as the Secretariat to the Com- mission on the Limits of the Continental Shelf (CLCS): www.un.org/ Depts/los/clcs_new/clcs_home.htm. UNEP/GRID-Arendal is an official UNEP centre located in Southern Norway. GRID-Arendal’s mission is to provide environmental informa- tion, communications and capacity building services for information management and assessment. The centre’s core focus is to facili- tate the free access and exchange of information to support decision making to secure a sustainable future. www.grida.no. Continental Shelf The Last Maritime Zone Continental Shelf The Last Maritime Zone Authors and contributors Tina Schoolmeester and Elaine Baker (Editors) Joan Fabres Øystein Halvorsen Øivind Lønne Jean-Nicolas Poussart Riccardo Pravettoni (Cartography) Morten Sørensen Kristina Thygesen Cover illustration Alex Mathers Language editor Harry Forster (Interrelate Grenoble) Special thanks to Yannick Beaudoin Janet Fernandez Skaalvik Lars Kullerud Harald Sund (Geocap AS) Continental Shelf The Last Maritime Zone Foreword During the past decade, many coastal States have been engaged in peacefully establish- ing the limits of their maritime jurisdiction. -
Littoral Cells, Sand Budgets, and Beaches: Understanding California S
LITTORAL CELLS, SAND BUDGETS, AND BEACHES: UNDERSTANDING CALIFORNIA’ S SHORELINE KIKI PATSCH GARY GRIGGS OCTOBER 2006 INSTITUTE OF MARINE SCIENCES UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SANTA CRUZ CALIFORNIA DEPARTMENT OF BOATING AND WATERWAYS CALIFORNIA COASTAL SEDIMENT MANAGEMENT WORKGROUP Littoral Cells, Sand Budgets, and Beaches: Understanding California’s Shoreline By Kiki Patch Gary Griggs Institute of Marine Sciences University of California, Santa Cruz California Department of Boating and Waterways California Coastal Sediment Management WorkGroup October 2006 Cover Image: Santa Barbara Harbor © 2002 Kenneth & Gabrielle Adelman, California Coastal Records Project www.californiacoastline.org Brochure Design & Layout Laura Beach www.LauraBeach.net Littoral Cells, Sand Budgets, and Beaches: Understanding California’s Shoreline Kiki Patsch Gary Griggs Institute of Marine Sciences University of California, Santa Cruz TABLE OF CONTENTS Executive Summary 7 Chapter 1: Introduction 9 Chapter 2: An Overview of Littoral Cells and Littoral Drift 11 Chapter 3: Elements Involved in Developing Sand Budgets for Littoral Cells 17 Chapter 4: Sand Budgets for California’s Major Littoral Cells and Changes in Sand Supply 23 Chapter 5: Discussion of Beach Nourishment in California 27 Chapter 6: Conclusions 33 References Cited and Other Useful References 35 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY he coastline of California can be divided into a set of dis- Beach nourishment or beach restoration is the placement of Ttinct, essentially self-contained littoral cells or beach com- sand on the shoreline with the intent of widening a beach that partments. These compartments are geographically limited and is naturally narrow or where the natural supply of sand has consist of a series of sand sources (such as rivers, streams and been signifi cantly reduced through human activities. -
Relationship Between Continental Rise Development and Palaeo-Ice Sheet Dynamics, Northern Antarctic Peninsula Pacific Margin
ARTICLE IN PRESS Quaternary Science Reviews 25 (2006) 933–944 Relationship between continental rise development and palaeo-ice sheet dynamics, Northern Antarctic Peninsula Pacific margin David Amblasa, Roger Urgelesa, Miquel Canalsa,Ã, Antoni M. Calafata, Michele Rebescob, Angelo Camerlenghia, Ferran Estradac, Marc De Batistd, John E. Hughes-Clarkee aGRC Geocie`ncies Marines, Universitat de Barcelona, Martı´ i Franque`s s/n, E-08028 Barcelona, Spain bIstituto Nazionale di Oceanografia e di Geofisica Sperimentale (OGS), Borgo Grotta Gigante 42/c, 34010 Sgonico, Trieste, Italy cCSIC Institut de Cie`ncies del Mar, Passeig Marı´tim Barceloneta 37-49, 08003 Barcelona, Spain dRenard Centre of Marine Geology, Ghent University, Krijgslaan 281 S8, B-9000 Gent, Belgium eOcean Mapping Group, University of New Brunswick, Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada E3B 5A3 Received 17 December 2004; accepted 10 July 2005 Abstract Acquisition of swath bathymetry data west of the North Antarctic Peninsula (NAP), between 631S and 661S, and its integration with the predicted seafloor topography of Smith and Sandwell [Global seafloor topography from satellite altimetry and ship depth soundings. Science 277, 1956–1962.] reveal the links between the continental rise depositional systems and the NAP palaeo-ice sheet dynamics. The NAP Pacific margin consists of a wide continental shelf dissected by several troughs, tens of kilometres wide and long. The Biscoe Trough, which has been almost entirely surveyed with multibeam sonar, shows spectacular fan-shaped streamlining sea-floor morphologies revealing the presence of ice streams during the Last Glacial Maximum. In the study area the continental rise comprises the six northernmost sediment mounds of the NAP Pacific margin and the canyon-channel systems between them. -
Feasibility Study of an Artifical Sandy Beach at Batumi, Georgia
FEASIBILITY STUDY OF AN ARTIFICAL SANDY BEACH AT BATUMI, GEORGIA ARCADIS/TU DELFT : MSc Report FEASIBILITY STUDY OF AN ARTIFICAL SANDY BEACH AT BATUMI, GEORGIA Date May 2012 Graduate C. Pepping Educational Institution Delft University of Technology, Faculty Civil Engineering & Geosciences Section Hydraulic Engineering, Chair of Coastal Engineering MSc Thesis committee Prof. dr. ir. M.J.F. Stive Delft University of Technology Dr. ir. M. Zijlema Delft University of Technology Ir. J. van Overeem Delft University of Technology Ir. M.C. Onderwater ARCADIS Nederland BV Company ARCADIS Nederland BV, Division Water PREFACE Preface This Master thesis is the final part of the Master program Hydraulic Engineering of the chair Coastal Engineering at the faculty Civil Engineering & Geosciences of the Delft University of Technology. This research is done in cooperation with ARCADIS Nederland BV. The report represents the work done from July 2011 until May 2012. I would like to thank Jan van Overeem and Martijn Onderwater for the opportunity to perform this research at ARCADIS and the opportunity to graduate on such an interesting subject with many different aspects. I would also like to thank Robbin van Santen for all his help and assistance for the XBeach model. Furthermore I owe a special thanks to my graduation committee for the valuable input and feedback: Prof. dr. ir. M.J.F. Stive (Delft University of Technology) for his support and interest in my graduation work; Dr. ir. M. Zijlema (Delft University of Technology) for his support and reviewing the report; ir. J. van Overeem (Delft University of Technology ) for his supervisions, useful feedback and help, support and for reviewing the report; and ir. -
Recent Sediments of the Monterey Deep-Sea Fan
UC Berkeley Hydraulic Engineering Laboratory Reports Title Recent Sediments of the Monterey Deep-Sea Fan Permalink https://escholarship.org/uc/item/5f440431 Author Wilde, Pat Publication Date 1965-05-01 Peer reviewed eScholarship.org Powered by the California Digital Library University of California RECENT SEDIMENTS OF THE MONTEREY DEEP-SEA FAN A thesis presented by Pat Wilde to The Department of Geological Sciences in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doc tor of Philosophy in the subject of Geology Harvard Univer sity Cambridge, Massachusetts May 1965 Copyright reserved by the author University of California Hydraulic Engineering Laboratory Submitted under Contract DA- 49- 055-CIV-ENG- 63-4 with the Coastal Engineering Research Center, U. S. Army Technical Report No. HEL-2-13 RECENT SEDIMENTS OF THE MONTEREY DEEP-SEA FAN by Pat Wilde Berkeley, California May, 1965 CONTENTS Page Abstract ................... 1 Introduction ...................... 5 Definition ..................... 5 Location ..................... 5 Regional Setting .............. 8 Subjects of Investigation ............... 9 Sources of Data .................. 10 Acknowledgements ................ 10 Geomorphology ..................11 Major Features ..............'11 FanSlope ................... 11 Under sea Positive Relief ............15 Submarine Canyon-Channel Systems . 16 Hydraulic Geometry ................ 19 Calculations ............... 19 Comparison with other Channel Systems ..30 Lithology ........................32 Sampling Techniques ............... -
Coastal and Ocean Engineering
May 18, 2020 Coastal and Ocean Engineering John Fenton Institute of Hydraulic Engineering and Water Resources Management Vienna University of Technology, Karlsplatz 13/222, 1040 Vienna, Austria URL: http://johndfenton.com/ URL: mailto:[email protected] Abstract This course introduces maritime engineering, encompassing coastal and ocean engineering. It con- centrates on providing an understanding of the many processes at work when the tides, storms and waves interact with the natural and human environments. The course will be a mixture of descrip- tion and theory – it is hoped that by understanding the theory that the practicewillbemadeallthe easier. There is nothing quite so practical as a good theory. Table of Contents References ....................... 2 1. Introduction ..................... 6 1.1 Physical properties of seawater ............. 6 2. Introduction to Oceanography ............... 7 2.1 Ocean currents .................. 7 2.2 El Niño, La Niña, and the Southern Oscillation ........10 2.3 Indian Ocean Dipole ................12 2.4 Continental shelf flow ................13 3. Tides .......................15 3.1 Introduction ...................15 3.2 Tide generating forces and equilibrium theory ........15 3.3 Dynamic model of tides ...............17 3.4 Harmonic analysis and prediction of tides ..........19 4. Surface gravity waves ..................21 4.1 The equations of fluid mechanics ............21 4.2 Boundary conditions ................28 4.3 The general problem of wave motion ...........29 4.4 Linear wave theory .................30 4.5 Shoaling, refraction and breaking ............44 4.6 Diffraction ...................50 4.7 Nonlinear wave theories ...............51 1 Coastal and Ocean Engineering John Fenton 5. The calculation of forces on ocean structures ...........54 5.1 Structural element much smaller than wavelength – drag and inertia forces .....................54 5.2 Structural element comparable with wavelength – diffraction forces ..56 6. -
Measuring Currents in Submarine Canyons: Technological and Scientifi C Progress in the Past 30 Years
Exploring the Deep Sea and Beyond themed issue Measuring currents in submarine canyons: Technological and scientifi c progress in the past 30 years J.P. Xu U.S. Geological Survey, 345 Middlefi eld Road, MS-999, Menlo Park, California 94025, USA ABSTRACT 1. INTRODUCTION processes, and summarize and discuss several future research challenges constructed primar- The development and application of The publication of the American Association ily for submarine canyons in temperate climate, acoustic and optical technologies and of of Petroleum Geologists Studies in Geology 8: such as the California coast. accurate positioning systems in the past Currents in Submarine Canyons and Other Sea 30 years have opened new frontiers in the Valleys (Shepard et al., 1979) marked a signifi - 2. TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCES submarine canyon research communities. cant milestone in submarine canyon research. IN CURRENT OBSERVATION IN This paper reviews several key advance- Although there had been studies on the topics of SUBMARINE CANYONS ments in both technology and science in the submarine canyon hydrodynamics and sediment fi eld of currents in submarine canyons since processes in various journals since the 1930s 2.1. Instrumentation the1979 publication of Currents in Subma- (Shepard et al., 1939; Emory and Hulsemann, rine Canyons and Other Sea Valleys by Fran- 1963; Ryan and Heezen 1965; Inman, 1970; Instrument development has come a long way cis Shepard and colleagues. Precise place- Drake and Gorsline, 1973; Shepard, 1975), this in the past 30 yr. The greatest leap in the tech- ments of high-resolution, high-frequency book was the fi rst of its kind to provide descrip- nology of fl ow measurements was the transition instruments have not only allowed research- tion and discussion on the various phenomena from mechanical to acoustic current meters. -
Mapping the Canyon
Deep East 2001— Grades 9-12 Focus: Bathymetry of Hudson Canyon Mapping the Canyon FOCUS Part III: Bathymetry of Hudson Canyon ❒ Library Books GRADE LEVEL AUDIO/VISUAL EQUIPMENT 9 - 12 Overhead Projector FOCUS QUESTION TEACHING TIME What are the differences between bathymetric Two 45-minute periods maps and topographic maps? SEATING ARRANGEMENT LEARNING OBJECTIVES Cooperative groups of two to four Students will be able to compare and contrast a topographic map to a bathymetric map. MAXIMUM NUMBER OF STUDENTS 30 Students will investigate the various ways in which bathymetric maps are made. KEY WORDS Topography Students will learn how to interpret a bathymet- Bathymetry ric map. Map Multibeam sonar ADAPTATIONS FOR DEAF STUDENTS Canyon None required Contour lines SONAR MATERIALS Side-scan sonar Part I: GLORIA ❒ 1 Hudson Canyon Bathymetry map trans- Echo sounder parency ❒ 1 local topographic map BACKGROUND INFORMATION ❒ 1 USGS Fact Sheet on Sea Floor Mapping A map is a flat representation of all or part of Earth’s surface drawn to a specific scale Part II: (Tarbuck & Lutgens, 1999). Topographic maps show elevation of landforms above sea level, ❒ 1 local topographic map per group and bathymetric maps show depths of land- ❒ 1 Hudson Canyon Bathymetry map per group forms below sea level. The topographic eleva- ❒ 1 Hudson Canyon Bathymetry map trans- tions and the bathymetric depths are shown parency ❒ with contour lines. A contour line is a line on a Contour Analysis Worksheet map representing a corresponding imaginary 59 Deep East 2001— Grades 9-12 Focus: Bathymetry of Hudson Canyon line on the ground that has the same elevation sonar is the multibeam sonar. -
On the Circulation and Water Masses Over the Antarctic Continental Slope and Rise Between 80 and 1503E Nathaniel L
Deep-Sea Research II 47 (2000) 2299}2326 On the circulation and water masses over the Antarctic continental slope and rise between 80 and 1503E Nathaniel L. Bindo!! *, Mark A. Rosenberg!, Mark J. Warner" !Antarctic Co-operative Research Centre, GPO Box 252-80, Hobart, Tasmania 7001, Australia "School of Oceanography, University of Washington, Seattle, USA Received 18 December 1998; received in revised form 18 October 1999; accepted 22 December 1999 Abstract The circulation and water masses in the region between 80 and 1503E and from the Antarctic continental shelf to the Southern Boundary of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current (ACC) (&623S) are described from hydrographic and surface drifter data taken as part of the multi-disciplinary experiment, Baseline Research on Oceanography Krill and the Environment (BROKE). Two types of bottom water are identi"ed, Adelie Land Bottom Water, formed locally between 140 and 1503E, and Ross Sea Bottom Water. Ross Sea Bottom Water is found only at 1503E, whereas Adelie Land Bottom Water is found throughout the survey region. The bottom water mass properties become progressively warmer and saltier to the west, suggesting a westward #ow. All of the eight meridional CTD sections show an Antarctic Slope Front of varying strength and position with respect to the shelf break. In the water formation areas (between 140 and 1503E) and 1043E, the Antarctic Slope Front is more `Va shaped, while elsewhere it is one-sided. The shape of the slope front, and the presence or absence of water formation there, are consistent with other meridional sections in the Weddel Sea and simple theories of bottom-water formation (Gill, 1973. -
45. Sedimentary Facies and Depositional History of the Iberia Abyssal Plain1
Whitmarsh, R.B., Sawyer, D.S., Klaus, A., and Masson, D.G. (Eds.), 1996 Proceedings of the Ocean Drilling Program, Scientific Results, Vol. 149 45. SEDIMENTARY FACIES AND DEPOSITIONAL HISTORY OF THE IBERIA ABYSSAL PLAIN1 D. Milkert,2 B. Alonso,3 L. Liu,4 X. Zhao,5 M. Comas,6 and E. de Kaenel4 ABSTRACT During Leg 149, a transect of five sites (Sites 897 to 901) was cored across the rifted continental margin off the west coast of Portugal. Lithologic and seismostratigraphical studies, as well as paleomagnetic, calcareous nannofossil, foraminiferal, and dinocyst stratigraphic research, were completed. The depositional history of the Iberia Abyssal Plain is generally characterized by downslope transport of terrigenous sedi- ments, pelagic sedimentation, and contourite sediments. Sea-level changes and catastrophic events such as slope failure, trig- gered by earthquakes or oversteepening, are the main factors that have controlled the different sedimentary facies. We propose five stages for the evolution of the Iberia Abyssal Plain: (1) Upper Cretaceous and lower Tertiary gravitational flows, (2) Eocene pelagic sedimentation, (3) Oligocene and Miocene contourites, (4) a Miocene compressional phase, and (5) Pliocene and Pleistocene turbidite sedimentation. Major input of terrigenous turbidites on the Iberia Abyssal Plain began in the late Pliocene at 2.6 Ma. INTRODUCTION tured by both Mesozoic extension and Eocene compression (Pyrenean orogeny) (Boillot et al., 1979), and to a lesser extent by Miocene com- Leg 149 drilled a transect of sites (897 to 901) across the rifted mar- pression (Betic-Rif phase) (Mougenot et al., 1984). gin off Portugal over the ocean/continent transition in the Iberia Abys- Previous studies of the Cenozoic geology of the Iberian Margin sal Plain. -
The Impact of Makeshift Sandbag Groynes on Coastal Geomorphology: a Case Study at Columbus Bay, Trinidad
Environment and Natural Resources Research; Vol. 4, No. 1; 2014 ISSN 1927-0488 E-ISSN 1927-0496 Published by Canadian Center of Science and Education The Impact of Makeshift Sandbag Groynes on Coastal Geomorphology: A Case Study at Columbus Bay, Trinidad Junior Darsan1 & Christopher Alexis2 1 University of the West Indies, St. Augustine Campus, Trinidad 2 Institute of Marine Affairs, Chaguaramas, Trinidad Correspondence: Junior Darsan, Department of Geography, University of the West Indies, St Augustine, Trinidad. E-mail: [email protected] Received: January 7, 2014 Accepted: February 7, 2014 Online Published: February 19, 2014 doi:10.5539/enrr.v4n1p94 URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.5539/enrr.v4n1p94 Abstract Coastal erosion threatens coastal land which is an invaluable limited resource to Small Island Developing States (SIDS). Columbus Bay, located on the south-western peninsula of Trinidad, experiences high rates of coastal erosion which has resulted in the loss of millions of dollars to coconut estate owners. Owing to this, three makeshift sandbag groynes were installed in the northern region of Columbus Bay to arrest the coastal erosion problem. Beach profiles were conducted at eight stations from October 2009 to April 2011 to determine the change in beach widths and beach volumes along the bay. Beach width and volume changes were determined from the baseline in October 2009. Additionally, a generalized shoreline response model (GENESIS) was applied to Columbus Bay and simulated a 4 year model run. Results indicate that there was an increase in beach width and volume at five stations located within or adjacent to the groyne field. -
Shaping the Beach, One Wave at a Time New Research Is Deciphering How Currents, Waves, and Sands Change Our Shorelines
http://oceanusmag.whoi.edu/v43n1/raubenheimer.html Shaping the Beach, One Wave at a Time New research is deciphering how currents, waves, and sands change our shorelines By Britt Raubenheimer, Associate Scientist nearshore region—the stretch of sand, for a beach to erode or build up. Applied Ocean Physics & Engineering Dept. rock, and water between the dry land be- Understanding beaches and the adja- Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution hind the beach and the beginning of deep cent nearshore ocean is critical because or years, scientists who study the water far from shore. To comprehend and nearly half of the U.S. population lives Fshoreline have wondered at the appar- predict how shorelines will change from within a day’s drive of a coast. Shoreline ent fickleness of storms, which can dev- day to day and year to year, we have to: recreation is also a significant part of the astate one part of a coastline, yet leave an • decipher how waves evolve; economy of many states. adjacent part untouched. One beach may • determine where currents will form For more than a decade, I have been wash away, with houses tumbling into the and why; working with WHOI Senior Scientist Steve sea, while a nearby beach weathers a storm • learn where sand comes from and Elgar and colleagues across the coun- without a scratch. How can this be? where it goes; try to decipher patterns and processes in The answers lie in the physics of the • understand when conditions are right this environment. Most of our work takes A Mess of Physics Near the Shore Many forces intersect and interact in the surf and swash zones of the coastal ocean, pushing sand and water up, down, and along the coast.