A Quick Trip Through UAE
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A quick trip through UAE A short trip from Dubai to the east coast of UAE and back 255 km (158 miles) over 6 days from October 31, 2002 to November 5, 2002 Curtis Mahr A quick trip through UAE Table of Contents Introduction....................................................................................................................................... 1 Preparation and Planning .................................................................................................................. 2 Dubai to somewhere close to Masafi: It seemed like a good idea at the time.................................. 4 Day 2: To the beach!......................................................................................................................... 7 Day 3: My day off in Khor Fakkan.................................................................................................... 12 Day 4: An evil road to Fujairah ........................................................................................................ 14 Day 5: Fujairah-what to do, what to do... ........................................................................................ 18 Day 6: back to Dubai....................................................................................................................... 20 Epilogue .......................................................................................................................................... 23 Introduction The United Arab Emirates (UAE for short) are on a sliver of land north of Saudi Arabia, and west of Oman. I decided to cycle in UAE because I had a two week gap between my flight from Vancouver and my flight to Delhi. This may seem like a pretty weak reason, but then again, I spent the last seven years choosing travel destinations based on what letter of the alphabet they started with. The cycle trip was part of a larger trip through Qatar, UAE, India, Sri Lanka, and Europe. Because of time constraints, congestion, and maniacal drivers, I decided not to bike in India. Instead, I bought cheap bikes in UAE and Sri Lanka. This was easier than packing a bike each time I had to take a plane. My route started from Dubai, and went into the Hajar mountains to Masafi. From there I went north to the Omani border and then road along the coast to Khor Fakkan and Fujairah. I then headed back to Dubai, and completed the circle. A quick trip through UAE by Curtis Mahr - Page 1 Preparation and Planning Not much planning went into this one. I usually try to see if I have enough time to get where I want to go, and cut out going somewhere if it isn't feasible. Originally, I was planning to ride north to Mussandem in Oman, and then go along the east coast to Fujairah, and back to Dubai. Because of possible visa snags and delays in Dubai and Qatar, I cut out going to Mussandem. For bike maintenance, I took a tool kit of a pump, a cool tool, a set of allen keys, some screwdrivers, and a patch kit. For baggage, I used a 45 l hiking pack, a strap on cordura case, and 35 l daypack. Everything dense went in the cordura case and hiking pack, while bulky items went in the daypack. Because this was a trip through the desert, it was easy to travel light, and I skipped carrying a tent, and camping gear. However, as I would be trekking in India a week, I also had to carry a -20C sleeping bag, a set of gloves and a fleece jacket. Because I was unsure of how many towns would have supplies outside Dubai, I took five liters of water and a dozen bars of fruit leather for emergencies. In Dubai, I bought a brand new Taiwanese mountain bike of questionable quality, but good enough to last a week. It had analog shifters, passable brakes, and 24 speeds, with 4 speeds being unreachable due to bad tuning at the manufacturer. The cranks had some play, and the headset was loose. It was not a great bike, but would do. Then again, what can you expect for $65? That is in Canadian smackeroos, too! A quick trip through UAE by Curtis Mahr - Page 2 Preparation and Planning Travelling really light... A quick trip through UAE by Curtis Mahr - Page 3 Dubai to somewhere close to Masafi: It seemed like a good idea at the time 70 km (43 miles) - of total 70 km (43 miles) - on Thursday October 31, 2002 Today was going to be rough. I hadn't been on a bike for a few weeks, and had not yet acclimatised to the heat. The sun was bearing down the entire day, and the temperature was reaching 35-38 C. All things considered, it would be smart not to try to cover too much ground at first. To get at least a bit of pleasant riding time, I left from Dubai at sunrise. It would be cool in the morning, and I would have to face much less rush hour traffic. From the center of town to the eastern highway was 10 km of city streets and roundabouts. Although I am not fond of having to weave into traffic on roundabouts, there was little in the way of cars or trucks so early in the morning. It took an hour to get out of Dubai, and onto the main highway. Even this early, it was already getting hot. I resorted to taking rest breaks in the shade of the occasional overpasses. The traffic on the highway was much less than I expected, and riding was easy because of the paved shoulder. Not surprisingly, there was sand as far as the eye could see, and in all directions. The desert was remarkably populated, with buildings scattered along the side of the highway, and the occasional camel grazing area. Because I was planning on returning by the same road, I kept my eyes open for potential camping spots, in the event that I arrived too late to get to Dubai. Most of the road was populated, or fenced off, and I could find nothing that looked all that suitable. A quick trip through UAE by Curtis Mahr - Page 4 Dubai to somewhere close to Masafi: It seemed like a good idea at the Camels grazing by the highway At eleven, I stopped in a small town called Daid. I had lunch at an Indian greasy spoon, bought some more water and continued for 15 minutes to the edge of town. It was now far too hot, with the heat of the sun assaulting me from all directions. I hadn't acclimatised, had a full stomach, and was going nowhere fast. I pulled the bike to a carwash, and asked if I could take a nap there. The workers were shutting down for the afternoon siesta and kindly allowed me take a nap on a shady bench. A few hours later, it was only very hot, and I continued. As I got closer to the Hajar mountains, the countryside slowly changed from flat desert to rocky hills. While the passing scenery was much more interesting than the desert, it was also uphill. By five, I was exhausted, and making only slow progress. I wasn't sure how long it would continue uphill, and I decided to look for a place to camp. I took a turnoff to a promising looking quarry, and found a good camping site nestled between two small hills. A quick trip through UAE by Curtis Mahr - Page 5 Dubai to somewhere close to Masafi: It seemed like a good idea at the Hajar mountains With no tent, and no sleeping mat, it wasn't going to be comfortable. However, I laid a groundsheet out, used the sleeping bag as a mat. Being a -20 C bag, it was far too much for the night time low of 20 C in the desert, but good enough to pad the rocky ground. To keep away any creepy crawlies, I rigged up a mosquito net and a camera tripod as a makeshift shelter. After a meal of bread, nuts, and yogurt, I settled in to get some sleep. Just as it was getting dark and I was drifting off, I heard the sound of a mosque call. Here I was, in the middle of nowhere, and managed to set up beside a mosque. A quick trip through UAE by Curtis Mahr - Page 6 Day 2: To the beach! 75 km (47 miles) - of total 145 km (90 miles) - on Friday November 1, 2002 I woke at dawn, and packed everything and hit the road at first light. When I turned onto the main highway, and rode over the crest of the hill, I saw the sign for the Masafi Friday market. I had unknowingly stopped only 100m away from the main market area. This explained the mosque call. The market had not started because it was too early in the morning. Despite its name, the Friday market runs every day, and is called the Friday market because that is the day that all the people from Dubai show up. I passed the market, and rode out of Masafi, an otherwise unremarkable town. The plan of the day was to ride along the northern road to Dibba, and then down the coast to Khor Fakkan. The Hajar mountains were beautiful in the morning, and it was downhill all the way. With little traffic, and a cool breeze, it was a perfect riding day. I rode into Dibba by nine in the morning, and decided to see a bit of the town. According to the guidebook, there was a huge graveyard in Dibba that couldn't be missed. And I missed it. You would think it wouldn't be too hard to find a 10000 plot graveyard. Perhaps my navigation skills need some work. A quick trip through UAE by Curtis Mahr - Page 7 Day 2: To the beach! End of the downhill stretch The coastal highway to Khor Fakkan was much flatter, hotter, and noisier. Just out of Dibba, two dozen Porsches and a few infidel BMWs screamed past me, trying to break the sound barrier. There is lots of money in the Gulf, and it was showing itself off that day.