TOUR 9-17 June 2017 Decorative Arts of Transylvania ‘I have such good memories; HALI’s calm and enthusiastic leadership, plus the local guides contributed to a super experience.’ HALI Tour Armenia 2015 participant

‘Everyday I learned something and found myself looking at unbelievable treasure. Great trips are memorable and this was.’ Welcome HALI Tour Iberia 2015 participant

I am delighted to announce that White ground ‘Transylvanian’ rug (detail), Brukenthal , day 7 HALI will be returning to Transylvania in 2017 with Executive Editor, Daniel A huge number of 16th-17th century Ottoman rugs known Italian velvets, early embroideries, local and Shaffer and Stefano Ionescu offering from Anatolia have survived in the Saxon churches of folk kilims previously thought to be from Bessarabia. Transylvania; these were the focus of the inaugural exclusive access to one of the world’s Join Stefano Ionescu, world expert and leading authority HALI Tour in 2013. Questions emerged surrounding the most important treasure troves of on ‘Transylvanian’ rugs on his last tour to the region, astonishing context and condition of such rugs, which still Ottoman textile art. accompanied by HALI’s Daniel Shaffer. Romanian, Saxon decorate historic places of worship in . and Hungarian people from local communities will Ben Evans We are pleased to offer another chance to take part in a augment the cultural experience, as we meet with Lutheran journey of cultural discovery in this timeless region, exactly pastors, carpet collectors, museum curators, scholars and Editor, Hali Publications Limited 500 years since the Reformation first defined the region; artisans along the way. HALI Tours maintain a small group the area was described by Michael Franses following size and offer the best possible opportunities to view the his visit as ‘a treasure house set in Paradise’. Travel from worlds finest antique carpets and textiles. The tour will to Transylvania against the scenic backdrop of the offer the chance to see and handle objects not on view to Carpathian Mountains, see magnificent medieval towns, the public, and is possibly the last opportunity to see the churches and numerous textile treasures, including little region in the company of the world’s leading experts. Sighișoara Hotel Binder Bubi 5 6

Mediaș

Biertan Mălâncrav

Cozia Sibiu Sfântu Gheorghe Golden Tulip Hotel 7 8 Prejmer O L D O M V E A N U P E A K Brașov Hotel Ambient Bran 3 4

Câmpulung Sinaia

Ploiești Piteșt Târgoviște R  The Black Church of Braşov, the greatest Gothic monument in Romania, day 4

Bucharest Boutique Hotel Amzei 1 2 Itinerary Transylvania Silk voided velvet kaftan (detail), Italy, 15th century, National Museum Open-air Village Museum, Bucharest ‘Dracula’ Castle, Bran

HALI Tours represent the distillation DAY 1 Friday 9 June DAY 2 Saturday 10 June DAY 3 Sunday 11 June of more than thirty-five years of HALI articles and the experience gathered BUCHAREST BUCHAREST SINAIA & BRAN through their preparation. We guarantee Accommodation: Boutique Hotel Amzei, Bucharest Accommodation: Boutique Hotel Amzei, Bucharest Accommodation: Hotel Ambient, Braşov special access to material not normally on Arrive independently to Bucharest Royal Peleş Castle public view in the company of experts. Fly into Otopeni International Airport for transfer to View one of the largest collection of Romanian Nestled at the foot of the Carpathian Mountains the hotel. flatweaves from the regions of Oltenia, Transylvania, in the picturesque town of Sinaia, Peleş Castle is a Moldavia, and Bessarabia. An array of local regional masterpiece of German new-Renaissance architecture, National Art Museum crafts are available from a courtyard Craftsman’s Fair. and is considered one of the most stunning castles in The gallery of Medieval Art contains Orthodox Europe. The former residence of the Royal Family has icons, 16th century post-Byzantine embroideries and Mogoşoaia Palace Museum retained original furnishings, including 18th-century Ottoman textiles while three paintings by El Greco are Built by Prince Bâncoveanu, the palace combines Persian carpets. among the highlights in the gallery of European Art. Ottoman and Venetian stylistic elements and houses around 300 items donated by top Romanian art Bran Castle Welcome reception collectors Liana and Dan Nasta, including Kula, The so-called ‘Dracula’ Castle is nestled in an idyllic Meet the lecturer and group in the evening for an Ghiordes, and Kirshehir rugs, Senneh kilims and valley; view it from the outside and sample local introductory presentation and dinner. Romanian scoarţe. delicacies at the nearby market.

Village Museum Rosenau Church Open-air museum showing examples of historic Encounter Ottoman Lotto and Kula rugs in a Lutheran vernacular architecture with original looms and church with a presentation and discussion on why so furnishings from different regions of the country. many of these rugs survived in Saxon churches.

Buhara Gallery View the collection of dealer and passionate rug collector, Norbert Hauser. DA Tours Co. oara oara is a ş ş Wednesday 14 June 14 Wednesday Hotel Binder Bubi, Sighi : OARA & BIERTAN BIERTAN & OARA tion Ş

ccommoda DAY 6 SIGHI A charming medieval centre included on the UNESCO charming medieval centre displays world heritage list. The Monastery Church several about thirty rugs, amongst them a Star Ushak, rug dated 1641, and Lottos, a very important bird several double-niche ‘Transylvanians’. Malâncrav Painted Church this Also called the Sistine Chapel of Transylvania, 15th century where is one of the very few churches survived the rigours of the Reformation. frescos Biertan the This charming village, was the former seat of (now on the The church Saxon Lutheran Church. a small but very UNESCO Heritage List) treasures collection 5 rugs. A fragment of Lotto interesting rug, datable to 1600, will allow some technical observations on this type of Anatolian weaving, which CG Ellis attributed to a local production. Return to Sighişoara Monastery Church Monastery Church Founded by German craftsmen and merchants Sighi known as the Saxons of Transylvania, West Anatolian rug (detail), 15th century, Monastery Church, Sighişoara Monastery Church, 15th century, Anatolian rug (detail), West oara ş OARA Tuesday 13 June Tuesday Ş Hotel Binder Bubi, Sighi : ov shop in the 1930’s. tion ş

OV - SIGHI - OV Ş ccommoda DAY 5 BRA Székely National Museum, Sfântu Gheorghe a Hungarian The museum of the Székely minority, close to speaking population who inhabited regions new display includes , textiles, A the borders. kilims and an amazing wedding carriage. to Sighişoara. Travel walls of the Citadel on foot. the medieval Explore A Fortified Churches Harman and Prejmer refuge in case used as The fortified churches, of the cultural a vivid picture of attacks, provide seven are there At Harman landscape of Transylvania. has been Prejmer Lotto rugs displayed in the church. Heritage List since 1999. on the UNESCO World Petersberg Fortified Church and is still undergoing restoration This church some superb rugs which for long time preserves have not been accessible. Private Saxon home, Prejmer we will discuss a fake ‘single-niche Here from directly which the owner bought Transylvanian’, Bra Tuduc’s Harman Fortified Church Harman Fortified ov ş Monday 12 June Monday ov ş Hotel Ambient, Bra : tion

OV Ş ccommoda DAY 4 BRA şov Bra Black Church, A A town resplendent with gothic, baroque and with gothic, baroque A town resplendent at the intersection of trade architecture renaissance with western Ottoman Empire Europe. linking the routes dinner with folk music in the mountains Transylvanian at the Poiana Braşov ski resort. Black Church followed by an Private tour of the historic church Schlandt. View performed by Steffen organ recital a ‘must the collection of Ottoman rugs, which are see’ for every carpet enthusiast. Important examples Selendis, Lotto, and other types of of white-ground in detail. rugs will be discussed ‘Transylvanian’ Blumenau Church examples of rugs some very interesting are There worth amongst this Braşov collection which are viewing closely. Hungarian Lutheran Church and Viewing and handling of ‘Transylvanian’ rugs. Gördes St. Nicholas Orthodox Church afternoonFree in Bra St. Margaret Church, Mediaş Bird rug fragment, 17th century, Brukenthal, M2180 Church altar, Sibiu

DAY 7 Thursday 15 June DAY 8 Friday 16 June DAY 9 Saturday 17 June MEDIAŞ & SIBIU SIBIU SIBIU - BUCHAREST Accommodation: Golden Tulip Hotel, Sibiu Accommodation: Golden Tulip Hotel, Sibiu Accommodation: Not included

Travel to Mediaş Brukenthal Museum Cozia Orthodox Monastery Guided tour with the curator in the most important St. Margaret Church, Mediaş art museum in Transylvania displaying German and Travel to Bucharest Probably the most beautiful Lutheran church in Italian painting, furniture, religious art and Italian Arrive at Otopeni International airport at 2.30pm Transylvania. The collection of forty rugs includes four velvets. Exclusive visit to the storerooms to see Holbeins, several Lottos (including one of the best in additional Ottoman rugs in breath-taking condition. Independent onwards travel the region), a Çintamani, and bird and scorpion rugs. Presentation of the replica of a lost animal rug, woven Great Lutheran Church of Sibiu in Konya, after Schmutzler plate 9. Viewing and Visit the church, then meet with Bishop Reihart Guib, handling of a fragmentary Holbein and two Lottos former Pastor of Mediaş kept in storage. Free time in Sibiu OPTIONAL 2 DAY EXTENSION TO BUKOVINA Travel to Sibiu ASTRA Open Air Museum of Folk Civilisation Travel to the region further north of the HALI Teutsch Haus Located in a large park navigated by horse and Tour route via scenic roads taking in Tg Mureş, The Museum of the Lutheran Evangelic Church in carriages. Among the highlights are two wooden Bistriţa, Tihuţa Pass and Moldoviţa Monastery Romania shows the history of the Saxon community churches with paintings from Maramureş and some (360 km, approx. 6 hours). Take a one day in Transylvania and has an excellent book shop. homes which display textiles and looms. tour of Sucevita, Arbore, Voronet and Humor in the Bukovina region before taking the only Museum of the Lutheran Church Farewell dinner internal flight from Sucheava to Bucharest Otpeni Airport at 5.55am, landing at 7.10am on Monday 19 June 2017. Led by Stefano Ionescu.

Please enquire for further information at the time of booking.

Highlights

Local folk weaving and costume Early Ottoman rugs in Transylvanian churches

Distinctive Romanian kilims known as scoartze form a major component of the regions’ folk art. Traditionally they had The Black Church in Braşov displays many 17th-century Turkish rugs that still decorate the pews and walls, as do other utilitarian and ceremonial roles beyond their intrinsic artistic value. places of worship in the region including St. Margaret Church in Mediaş and the Monastery Church in Siagşoara.

Medieval towns, Royal palaces, castles and fortified churches Private access to museum stores and church archives

The tour encompasses some of the most interesting examples of architecture in Romania and allows time to take in the Gain unique access to collections that are not normally accessible to the public or tour groups. Get close-up, ‘hands-on’ charm of these historic buildings and places where a timeless character remains intact. viewings of rugs kept in storage, such as the Holbein from Sibiu, one of the best preserved examples in the world. Hotels DAYS 1 - 2 9-10 June DAYS 3 - 4 11-12 June DAY 5 - 6 13-14 June DAYS 7 - 8 15-16 June We provide the best standard of HOTEL AMZEI HOTEL AMBIENT HOTEL BINDER GOLDEN TULIP hand-picked accommodation available. Hotels are graded as BUCHAREST BRAŞOV BUBI SIGHIŞOARA HOTEL SIBIU Accommodation: H H H H Accommodation: H H H H Accommodation: H H H H H Accommodation: H H H H 4 to 5 stars, local star ratings do Duration of stay: 2 nights Duration of stay: 2 nights Duration of stay: 2 nights Duration of stay: 2 nights not necessarily correspond to international categories but all A small, privately owned hotel in a In an ideal location close by the Belonging to the best luxury hotel Undoubtedly one of the best luxury house built in 1912 and renovated in medieval centre of Braşov, this very chain in this tranquil area, this Saxon hotels in Transylvania, breakfast in the have been selected for their 2008, right in the heart of the town. pleasant hotel with a friendly team of style hotel is situated at the confluence roof top restaurant comes with an Well placed for reaching some of staff offers spacious rooms, spa and of three Transylvanian Saxon districts, unmatched view of Sibiu. comfort, ambience and charm. Bucharest Old Town’s best cultural gym facilities. Hintergasse, Schasergasse and sights on foot. Hemdchen, just a short walk from the www.goldentulipsibiu.ro www.hotelambient.ro/en medieval centre of Sighişoara. www.hotelamzei.ro www.binderbubisighisoara.ro Practicalities Tour details Pricing Booking This includes: Price per person: €2,200 For further information, bookings or to ❖ travel by private, air-conditioned coach Single supplement: €220 be added to the HALI Tours mailing list, ❖ hotel accommodation as described please contact: ❖ full-time services of experienced leader, A €300 deposit is payable at the Stefano Ionescu and HALI editorial staff time of booking. Rachel Meek ❖ all admissions HALI ❖ all state taxes 8 Ability Plaza ❖ full board; all breakfasts in hotels, Arbutus Street 7 lunches and 8 dinners in selected London HALI subscribers are E8 4DT restaurants with soft drinks, plus wine entitled to a 10% discount or beer in the evenings on early bookings. [email protected] Please note: The deposit must be paid +44 (0) 207 657 1220 Flights are not included, independent travel should be arranged to join the before 3 February 2017 in order to take advantage of It may be necessary to slightly amend the tour which begins and ends in programme according to local conditions Bucharest, Romania. The optional this special offer. extension offered is at additional cost. Maximum group size 22 people, excluding staff

❖ ❖ Ben Evans +44 (0)207 657 1211 [email protected] On the cover: ‘Transylvanian’ couple-columned rug, west Anatolia, mid- Rachel Meek ❖ +44 (0)207 657 1220 ❖ [email protected] 17th century, Black Church, Brasov, no.227