7. The City of Santa Fe

Th e Span ish settlers arrived in northern New of Spain , and later for 25 years the flag of Mexico. Mexico in July of 1598. Unde r the command of Don Th e Army of the West, under the command of Ju an de Onate, they built their village, San Gabriel. Brigadier General Stephen \Vatt s Kearn y, occupied on the west side of the Hio Grandc. Th e site, which the city on August 18, 1846; the 28 star flag of the has been recentl y excavated, is located across the United States of America was raised over the capital river from San Juan Pueblo. This, the first capital of city. In 1862 a Confede rate army from Texas marched the Kingdom of New Mexico, was eventually aband­ up the Hio Grande and occupied Santa Fe. Follow­ don ed and the land revert ed to Indian ownership. ing the Battl e of Glorieta Pass, however, the Con­ In January 1610 Don Pedro de Peralta arrived federate forces withdrew from ew Mexico. Th e from Mexico to establish a new capital city. Th e flag of the Confederate States of America was low­ Villa de Santa Fe, (The City of Holy Faith ), was ered from above the Plaza and the flag of the United founded at its present site and built upon the rubble States flew aga in over the city. of an aba ndoned Indian settlement. It was not until Santa Fe is a city of 40,000 people, and sits in Jun e 1823 that the city government and the clergy rolling hills at the southwestern base of the adopted St. Francis of Assisi as the patron saint Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Th e hills with their and the citv becam e known as La V illa de Santa Fe piiion and juniper tree cover, and the mountains, de Sail Fra'llcisco de Assisi. with their tall pine forests, aspen groves and trout Except for the 12-year period of Indi an occu­ filled streams belie the popul ar eastem belief that pation following the Pueblo Indi an Revolt of August Northem New Mexico is a flat arid desert. Th e city's 1680, Sant a Fe has served continuously as the capitol altitude, 6,990 feet above sea level, contributes to of _ ew Mexico. Four national flags have flown the crisp, clear air and makes Santa Fe a head ­ from the original capital building, the Palace of the quarters for some of the finest winter skiing in the Covernors. Th e first flag, of course, was the bann er country.

Sonro Fe in 1868. Looking east across the Plaza toward the adobe parish church which stood on the site of the present Cathedral. 64

NMA Septemb er · October 1966 39 OUR 28TH YEAR CLIMATE DESIGNING WESTERN MOUNTAIN REGIONAL PAINT FOR THE SOUTHWEST ARCHITECTS HAN lEY'S and the

COLOR ~.m:: EWWORLD GU I LD --.. L' ....oe .... • •• -c "'V 01" COLoR WE SALUTE YOU

IN ARCHITECTURAL QUALITY PAINTS

Best Wishes for a Successful Conference SUNFOE AMBASSADOR

O'MALLEY GLASS (7 MILLWORK CO. Albuquerque EI Paso HANLEY PAINT MFG. CO., INC. Phoenix EL PASO, TEXAS ALBUQUERQUE Tucson PH . 532-6921 NEW MEXICO 755-9821 PH. 265-1524

Get the facts about @mstrong SIDING

Home furnishings of distinction

Professional Staff: Modesta Comeford-AID, NSID Merritt W. Hope-AID - - Carrie McCollough- AI D «: J'~o tli~o Oibson 108 Vassar, S.E. 242-961 4 e"LUMBER Albuquerque, New Mexico 4100 Fourth Street, N. W. • 344-3434

.... 0 NMA Sept ember · October 1966 ( which wou ld be at the ap proxi­ mat e position of the present gas station ). Th e propert y was sold in 1746 by his widow to Don Manu el Saenz de Garviso, a Lieutenant of the Hoyal Presidio. All of the pres­ ent buildings on the site which in­ cludes the Sena Plaza, were built in the middl e 1700's, or early 1800's.

Pa lace of the Gove rnors Originally buit in 1610-12, when the colonists moved from San Gabri el to establish a new capital at Sant a Fe. Th e building served as the seat of governmen t and as a protective fortress. Th e Casas Beales (" Hoyal Houses" ) included a chapel, the private apartments of the Covernor, rooms for government business, a storeroom for gunpowder, headquarters for the military , and rooms for servants; the complex was Sena Pla za Ea st Palace Avenue built around a large central patio which contained a vegetable garden. This house is built upon the east­ During those early days, before the Indian Revolt of 1680, the entire em portion of the Arias de Quiros palace compound consisted of man y acres fronting on the main plaza lands. After 1864 the Sena Family of Santa Fe. occupi ed sections of the house on Much of the compound was destroyed during the revolt; only three sides of a large patio with a that portion, known as £1 Palacio Real survived. In 1866 some 50 feet stable, chicken ' house, coach house of the west end of the building, which had contained a tower in which and servants quarters on the north. gunpowder had been stored, was demolished, and Lincoln Avenu e Th e house was sold in 1927 and was open from the Plaza through to the uncompleted Federal Building. the second story was added on the Th e portal across the front was probably first built in 1705, as a north and east portions. At that simple Spanish Coloni al type, with pealed logs and a dirt roof. In 1878 time the building was remodeled the portal was replaced by a porch in the current Territorial style only into offices and shops. to be reconverted once again in 1913 to the Spanish mann er. Fortunately however, a number of handsome pedi mented window and door fram es 1------,-\ from the 1860's remain in place and give the building such architectura l distinction as it possesses.

;ar-~,-_- -..--/: . I ~~w:u.._ 1 Chapel of San Miguel College and DeVargas Streets I

66. the present Pa lace with the Arias de Quiros site and Sena Plaza beyand. , The original chapel of San Mi­ guel, built in 1626 by Fray 'Alfonso The Arias de Quiros Site East Pa lace Avenue de Bena viedes, was demolished in 1640, rebuilt, and badly damaged . _A native of .Spain, Capitan Arias de Quiros campaigned with de by the Indian Revolt of 1680. It Vargas during -the Reconquest of ew Mexico in 1693. In '1697 he was was built anew in 1710 on a larger granted property on the north side of the Plaza extending from the scale, and ' over. the years many east end of the Palace of the Co vernors to what is now the east boundary changes and repairs have alt ered its of Sena Plaza. He built his own house on the west end of the site appearance. In 1955, in the process

NMA September · October 1966 41 I NTERIORS

PRESENTS

HERMAN M ILLER FOR NEW MEXICO

HERMAN MILLER INC.

OUR TRAINED DESIGN STAFF CAN ASSIST YOU

• INTERIOR PLANNING

• D ESIGN SERVICE

• PREPARATION OF SPECIFICATIONS

DESIGN INTERIORS CONTRACT SA L~S DIVISION

THE PAPER MILL, INC. DES IGN INTERIORS THE INK WELL, INC. 132 West Las Cruces 120 Morningside S.E. 314 9th Street Las Cruces, N. M. Albuquerqu e, N. M. Alamogord o, . M. 524.-2866 255-2513 437-7300

42 NMASeptember · Octo ber 1966 of a thorough restoration, the foun ­ teet, Antoine Moul y, whose design hou ette form a striking contrast dations of the earlier chapels were is remeniscent of Romanesque with the compact, lethargic build­ discovered . This obliterates the churc hes of the bishop's home pro­ ings of adobe which had hitherto basis for the legend of the "oldest vince. During construction of the been built in the cit y. churc h in the United States," Ca thedral, Moul y becam e blind, The architectural excellence of (Churc hes at Isleta, 1629, Acom a, and, there after, turned the job of the chann ing littl e chapel is out­ by 1644, and Lagun a, about 1700, completion over to his architec t shown by the popular reputation are all older). At the time of res­ son, Projectu s. Th e apse and north of its frag ile wooden staircase in­ toration the reredos was cleaned transept of the incompl ete cathe­ side whi ch winds to the musicians an d repa ired and its 1798 date dis­ dral are formed by the ado be walls ga llery. Th e spiraling stai rcase is in­ cove red. of an earlier chapel. The facade deed a miracle of ingenuity if not, also is fortunately unfinished for perhap s, of angelic authors hip . twin towers were pro jected which would have carried the spires to an ungainly heigh t above their pres­ en t elevation. Th e adobe chape ls were bu ilt between 1714 and 1721 on the site of the pre-Reb ellion par ish church. The tran sept houses a sma ll wood­ en sta tue of the Virgin known as 'La Conquistadora." She was car­ Donaciano Vigil House ried out of Santa Fe during the He­ 518 Alto Street volt by a fleeing Spani sh lad y. and Th e house was bequeathed to brought back in triumph by de Donaciano Vigil by his parents in Vargas in 1693. 1830. It is probabl y one-half of a once large hom e, whose central Cathedral of St. Francis courtyard or pla cita was approach ­ of Assisi Cathedral Place ed by the double gate and passage The Ca thedral was built between way (z agtuln) wide enough to per­ 1869 and 1886 by the first Bishop mit an ox cart to pass. The ex­ of New Mexico, Jean-Baptiste terior windows date from the last Lam y who came to the area in third of the nin eteenth century . 1851. A native of Auver gne, the Long prominent in New Mexico bishop sent to France for his archi- political affairs, Sr. Vigil served as secretary to Governor Manuel Ar­ mijo during the Mexican regime. He was appointed by General Kearn ey as Secretary of New Mex­ ico, and later served as Civil Gover­ nor from 1847-48.

Chapel College Street Olive Rush Studio Commissioned by the Sisters of 630 Canyon Road Loretto as early as 1878, this littl e Known to be over 100 years old , cha pel is the most success ful fac­ this hous e probabl y gives the best simile of a Medi eval building eve r idea of a Spanish Colonial home created in New Mexico. Probably of any in the city. Parti cularl y fine the architects were Antoine and are the garden and portal on the Projectu s Moul y who also designed east side of the struc ture whi ch for the Ca thedral. Construc ted of well man y yea rs was the studio and resi­ cut stone, the light, vertical com­ dence of the well known artist, The Cathedral as originally designed position and the active Gothic sil- Olive Hush.

NMASeptember · October 1966 43 CONFERENCE

from: BUILDERS' SPECIALTY SERVICE, INC.

.. . a firm representing manufacturers of fine engineered building products dedicated to serving

IIITHE ARCHITECT IIITHE CONTRACTOR Come visit our exhibit at the Conference!

CLINTON E ANDERSON AGENCY INC.

We specialize in service to contractors -on bid and performance bonds -on casualty insurance coverage

44 NMA September· October 1966 Rogue 311 Washingto n Avenue Built soon after 1785 by Rogue Lob ato, a soldier and armorer for th e Hoyal Spani sh Ga rrison. The house was remodeled and restored in 1910 by Dr. Sylvanus G. Morl ey, one time direct or of th e Museum of New Mexico and a famous archaeologist. Th e brick coping was adde d at a later date. Lobato house before remodeling The Juan Rodriguez House Cerro Gordo and Gonzales Thi s magnificent dwelling dates back to the mid -eighteenth century since a part of the struc ture was built as a grist mill in 1756 for Don Santiago Royb al, Vicar of Santa Fe. Th e mill was still in use in 1911 -..... wh en the Public Servi ce Company install ed a pumping sta tion that cut off its water supply from th e Santa Fe river. Fort una tely for its occupants but unh appily for sightsee rs little of th e pla ce can be seen from th e road. Although modern fasc imiles, th ere some extremely interesting double hung windows of th e type first construc ted by th e Yankees in Santa Fe. Th e small panes be­ tween the heav v muntins could have been filled ~vith mica or glass from the Midwest.

Rosario Cemetery This chapel was built in 1807 on the site wh ere Don Diego de Var­ gas encamped before th e re-con­ Padre Gallegos House 227-237 Washington Avenue quest of Santa Fe in 1693. It wa s Both sections of this hous e were built by Padre Jose Manuel remodeled in 1914 to its present Gall egos a few years after th e padre was defrocked by Bishop Lamy in California Mission design , while a 1852, but probably th e door trim and certainly the turned posts of th e new and larger sanctuary was con ­ porch date from after the Civil War, The pitched roofs record an early structed at the back of the cha pe l atte mpt to overcom e the New Mexico traditional leaking roofs . in 1961-2.

NMA September · October 1966 4u Right at When it rains this point... it drains

....Thisis highschool "x" .Three days after the rains stopped, people under its roof were st ill "up to their ears in leaks." ....But it stayed dryas the desert unde r the roof of high school "Y" (same city), rain or no rain. Zonolite Vermiculite concrete mad e the difference. we can help you give your client an extra service (and at no extra cost)

Just ask our Communications Consultant to drop by. He-can help you provide facilities for communications tha t will keep pace with growth. Zonolite" Vermiculite concrete is At no cost, he'll be happy to take your building the cast-in-place insulation that plan, provide a schematic for your building's a. Provides proper slopes for drain age entire communications system, and deliver it to you to make it a part of your complete plan...... ' - ZON~L!T.E C~N~R .ETE . ".' - ' -- moow - '.- At the blueprint stage, he can show you how you STRUCTURAL CONCRETE can save the extra costs and delays that can crop up by waiting to plan communications b. in a seamless, monolithic structure after construction has begun. C•with high insulating val ues that are

J ust call our Business Office and ask for our d.leak-proof for the life of th e building e Communications Consultant. There's ZONOLITE no obligation, of course. tCAACEJ Southwest Vermiculite Co. @ Mountain States Telephone 5119 Edith Blvd. N.W., Albuquerque, N. M. 345-1633

46 NMA Sept ember · October 1966 EI Zaguan 545 Canyon Road "EI Zaguan" is hardly a typical New Mexican structure as far as its plan is concerned, but it is cer­ tainly one of the city's most attrac­ tive buildings. The strung-out, in­ defensible arrangement of rooms La Fonda Hotel San Francisco and Shelby Streets could only have been employed after the establishment of the La Fonda Hotel is a conspicuous example of the so called Santa strong Territorial government. Fe style, a revival of the Spanish-Indian architectural tradition of the Probably beginning with three Southwest. By the time it was designed in 1920 by Rapp, Rapp , and rooms in 1849, the dwe lling was Henrickson, the revival was well on its way to becoming the dominant gradually increased until it tota led style in New Mexico. Two subseq uent enlargements in 1929 and 1950 twenty-four rooms including ser­ have carried the hotel along San Francisco Street in the direction of the vants quarters across the street Cathedral. from the main section. On the Th e site of La Fonda Hotel had previously been occupied by the portal and in some of the main Exchange Hotel, a single story building, which had, at least in part, rooms, this house contains some of been constructed before the mid 1850's. Like its predecessor, La Fonda the best Territorial trim in the city. organized itself around an interior courtyard. In the newer structure adobe was replaced by walls of reinforced concrete and tile, which were battered inward in many places, and its surface was covered by a roughly applied cement stucco. Op en towers, wood balconies, a succession of terraces, and rows of projecting vegas provide an irregular and pic­ turesque silhouette to the structure .

The Borrego House 724 Canyon Road Although named for the socially and politically promin ent Borrego fami ly, who owned it from 1839 to 1906, this house was built by Ge­ ronimo Lopez sometim e prior to 1769. Th e rooms at the rear arc the most anci ent; the large one across the front, with its Terri­ toria l Style portal, was add ed in the later half of the 19th century. In 1961 the house was purchased by Th e Old Santa Fe Association. It is now the Three Cities of Spain , one of the popular eating places of Santa Fe.

NMA September · October 1966 47 PRESTRESSED CONCRETE PRODUCTS, INC. MANUFACTURERS OF ROOF AND FLOOR DECKS

THEY EXCEL IN MATOTAN BUILDI NG 230 Truman, N.E., Albuquerque, New Mexico • ECONOMY • PEMIANENCY • DURABILITY A versatile two-story office building with 40 foot • VERSATILITY • FLEXIBILITY clear span twin tee floor and roof members. Wolter Gathman, Architect and most important. FIRE RESISTANCE Contractor - Franklin Construction Co.

1900 MENAUL ROAD N. E., ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO 87106 (505) 345-2536

ALBUQUERQUE Dependable . TESTING LABORATORY SOUND, INTERCOM AND POCKET PAGING Sub-soil Investigations FOR EVERY BUILDING TYPE For Structura l and Dam Foundat ions Two Drills and Crews now Our broad experience in this specialized field available for Prompt Service is available to you. Contact us for general Laboratory Analysis and planning help. Eva luat ion of Construct ion Materials All work done under the supervision No obligation, of course. of Registered Professional Engineers

532 Jefferson St., N.E. - P. O. Box 41 01 1riiii1Ooe OF NEW MEXICO Phone AL 5-891 6 Albuquerque ll1 -A CORNELL DR., S.E., ALBUQUERQUE, N. M. 87106 Phone AL 5-1322 New Mexico PHONE 242-4611

BUILDERS and Hew 9K Mew lKe~.,. DECORATORS HARDWARE MANZANO QUARTZ, INC. 614 Headingly Ave. N.W. (505) 344-3337 Largest selection Albuquerque, New Mexico in the southwest. 20 different finishes Wholesalers of Crushed Quartz Building and Veneer Stone Come in, visit and linger in our Wonderful in the accenting of show rooms. Buildings, Fireplaces and Landscaping Display Spanish Designs

BIG JO LUMBER CO. Visit our "Stone Yard" of Santa Fe 6023 Ed ith Ave. N.E. (recrl from 2 to 6 p. m. 309 San Francisco St. Ph . 983-7395

48 NMASeptem ber · October 1966 For this brief history of the early architecture of New Mexico the editors relied heavily on "Taos Adobes" by Bainbridge Bunting. Other sources were consu lted, some of which are listed below. • Since 1871 • It is the expectation of the edi tors tha t this his­ tory will be continued in a future issue of New SERVING NORTHERN Mex ico Architec ture. Th ey want to record the de­ velopments in the arc hitecture which took place NEW MEXICO WITH during the Early Statehood Period and beyond. COMPLETE BAN KING These later developments are mentioned only brief­ ly in this issue of the magazine. SERVICES Many fine Victorian buildings were built in 1 ew Mexico, and many charming Victorian details were applied to older colonial and territorial homes. Unfortunately this period is generally looked upon with some scorn by today's society -- even by the ar­ THE FInST NATIONAL BANK dent preservationists. OF SANTA FE SANTA FE. LOS ALAMOS Th e 1910's saw the arrival of the archaeologists THE O l OE S' B ANI( IN 'HE S OU I H w E s r into New Mexico; in the 1920's cam e the artists. With them began the revival and developm ent of the earlier Indian and Spanish arc hitectural styles. The result was actua lly a new style -- the so-called Santa Fe Style, which is an elaboration upo n and a COPIES combination of the Indian, Spanish, Colonial and DIRECT une Terri torial styles. Th e Mabel Dodge Luhan house -- or better -- complex -- in Taos is an example; the . BLUE [PRInTS] unES homes along El Camino del Monte Sol in Santa Fe . PHOTOSTATS are others. La Fonda Hot el, also in Santa Fe, is a . XEROX large commercial example. · Superior Reproductions In northern New Mexico the invasion of con­ temporary arc hitectural thought is being arden tly . f ree Pickup and Deliuerq opposed by the forces of roman tic preservationism. All Work Held In Strictest Confidence The battle is vital and real. Th e editors of NMA want to bring history of the 982,·-4422 far past, as outlined in this special isssue, down to date. By the use of time and research, and with the IDESTERN support of our advertisers, they will do this. BLUEPRINT &. SUPPLlJ COMPANlJ 000 0 129 illest Palace Santa Fe. N M. For the benefit of visitors to Santa Fe , a new book is to be published about October 10, 1966. "Old Santa Fe Today" will contain detailed informa­ tion about some 35 of the older buildings in Santa HAND CRAFTED DOORS Fe. Published by the School of American Research, "Old Santa Fe Today" has been edited by Silvia • with mortise ond tenon Glidden Loomis and has an introduction written by joints pinned through door John Caw Mcem, FAIA. • we design and custom build doors to any dimension o o o o end/or specifications

• 4 varieties of wood available Taos Adobes - by Bainbridge Bunting, published by the Museum of New Mexico and the Fort Burgwin Re­ • send for free catalogue dis­ search Foundation. playing our complete line Old Santa Fe Today-Edited by Silvia Glidden Loomis. af our standard doors Intr oduction by John Gaw Meem, FAIA. Autoguid e to Northern New Mexico - Published by The " INCA" "Landscape" Magazine. sunburst motif The Rel igious Architecture of New Mexico-by George Southwest Kubler. Embudo - a Pilot Planning Project f or the Embudo Sl'anlsh Craftsmen Inc- Watershed of New Mexico-Prepared by the New Mexica State Planning Office , 1962. 412 La Madera - P. O. Box 1805 - (505) 982-1767 SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO Campo santo s-by Dorothy Benrimo, E. Boyd & Rebecca Salsbury James, 1966.

NMA September· October 1966 4 H