THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

America the Beautiful INSIDE THE EVER-CHANGING MINDSET OF THE U.S. CONSUMER ≈ WHAT MAKES HER BUY ≈ WHY SHE CAME BACK ≈ THE KEY FACTORS FUELING GROWTH

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Name Initials Date MCX-1A109C – Cover 2 Dir of Studio Services C. Weston Proofreader D. Heiges Corporate “Fashion Week Beauty Inc. – Gatefold Cover 2” Art Director E. Turner Bleed: 10" x 12.25" Copywriter N/A Trim: 9.75" x 12" Global Creative Director J. Mauksch Safety: 9" x 11.25" Creative Director B. O’Reilly 4/C Bleed Page Project Manager P. Krell Line Screen: 150 Dir of Graphic Services S. Turner WWD-Beauty Inc.: September 2011 Account Executive E. Cross Client Maybelline This Advertisement Created by PDF Version HI-RES IN PLACE PROOF # 0 150 East 42ND Street, New York, NY 10017 Main Tel: 212.414.7000 Paper Fortune Gloss Text Line Screen 150 © 2011 Maybelline LLC.

YOUTUBE.COM/LIVERUNWAYYOUTUBE.COM/LIVERUNWA Y Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. Lips: Eye Studio® Explosion™ Eyeshadow in Blowout, Eye Studio® Color Plush™ Silk Eyeshadow in Siren, Shine Sensational™ Lipgloss in Minty Sheer.

MCX-1A109A – Outer Gate Flap Name Initials Date Maybelline Dir of Studio Services C. Weston Corporate Proofreader D. Heiges “Fashion Week Beauty Inc. – Blue Lips Gatefold Panel 1” Art Director E. Turner Bleed: 9.75" x 12.25" Trim: 9.5" x 12" Copywriter NA Safety: 8.75" x 11.25" Global Creative Director J. Mauksch 4/C Bleed Page Creative Director B. O’Reilly Line Screen: 150 Project Manager P. Krell WWD-Beauty Inc.: Sept 2011 Dir of Graphic Services S. Turner Account Executive E. Cross This Advertisement Created by Client Maybelline PDF Version HI-RES IN PLACE ND 150 East 42 Street, New York, NY 10017 PROOF # 0 Main Tel: 212.414.7000 Paper Fortune Gloss Text Line Screen 150 ©2011 Maybelline LLC.

Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. Eyes: Eye Studio® Color Gleam™ Cream Eyeshadow in Flash of Forest and Blue Freeze, Eye Studio® Color Plush™ Silk Eyeshadow in Give Me , Color Sensational® Lipcolor in Very Cherry.

MCX-1A109B – Inner Gate Flap Name Initials Date Maybelline Dir of Studio Services C. Weston Corporate Proofreader D. Heiges “Fashion Week Beauty Inc. – Emily Painted Eyes Gatefold Panel 2” Art Director E. Turner Bleed: 9.75" x 12.25" Copywriter N/A Trim: 9.5" x 12" Safety: 8.75" x 11.25" Global Creative Director J. Mauksch 4/C Bleed Page Creative Director B. O’Reilly Line Screen: 150 Project Manager P. Krell WWD-Beauty Inc.: September 2011 Dir of Graphic Services S. Turner Account Executive E. Cross This Advertisement Created by Client Maybelline PDF Version HI-RES IN PLACE ND 150 East 42 Street, New York, NY 10017 PROOF # 0 Main Tel: 212.414.7000 Paper Fortune Gloss Text Line Screen 150 © 2011 Maybelline LLC.

Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. Eyes: Eye Studio® Color Explosion™ Eyeshadow in Amethyst Ablazed, Eye Studio® Lasting Drama™ Gel Eyeliner in Eggplant.

MCX-1A109D – Page 1 Name Initials Date Maybelline Dir of Studio Services C. Weston Corporate Proofreader D. Heiges “Fashion Week Beauty Inc. – Eyes Kemp Gatefold Page 1” Art Director E. Turner Bleed: 10.25" x 12.25" Copywriter N/A Trim: 10" x 12" Safety: 9.25" x 11.25" Global Creative Director J. Mauksch 4/C Bleed Page Creative Director B. O’Reilly Line Screen: 150 Project Manager P. Krell WWD-Beauty Inc.: September 2011 Dir of Graphic Services S. Turner Account Executive E. Cross This Advertisement Created by Client Maybelline PDF Version HI-RES IN PLACE 150 East 42ND Street, New York, NY 10017 PROOF # 0 Main Tel: 212.414.7000 Paper Fortune Gloss Text Line Screen 150 2 WWD BEAUTY INC contents 21

Departments CORNER OFFICE 08 Master Class: Steve Stoute The master of multicultural marketing and the man behind the ascent of Carol’s Daughter 16 talks trends, story telling and the tanning of America. 12 Catching Up With: Andie MacDowell Beauty’s longest-serving spokesmodel (25 years and counting!) is gearing up for her latest role. 12 My First Job: Ole Henriksen The milk boy turned magnate on his humble beginnings.

38 BEAUTY BULLETIN 14 Blue Valentine This fall, beauty’s got the . Features 16 Launch Window The season’s coolest launches. 21 Apothecary Now Harrods unveils the 28 The Anxiety Gap As the economy continues its harrowing newest addition to its storied beauty halls. pattern of highs and lows—dragging the consumer confi dence index down with it—the chasm between the haves and have-nots has never been wider. Here, a look at how the shopping habits of CONSUMER CHRONICLES Americans have changed to meet the new economic reality. 22 On Beauty’s Trail in Boston 34 Hand Power Forget the index: Beauty’s newest A makeup newbie heads to the recession-proof winner is nail color, with sales continuing to soar Burlington Mall for a fresh look. to new highs. 24 What’s Selling Where: 38 The Simple Life Fragrance executive Catherine Walsh fi nds The bestsellers in a relaxation deep in the of Texas. hot category. 40 Messenger Center For today’s cutting-edge beauty editors, 26 Shopper Stalker: Short Hills, N.J. month-by-month communication with their readers has turned Who’s buying what—and why. into minute-by-minute contact, online and off. MISC 06 Pete Unplugged Looking at the 08 THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY supply side conundrum. ON THE COVER: 44 Country Fair Some leading stylemakers Illustration by weigh in on who’s the fairest of them all. Christoph Niemann America the Beautiful INSIDE THE EVER-CHANGING MINDSET OF THE U.S. CONSUMER: ≈ WHAT MAKES HER BUY ≈ WHY SHE CAME BACK ≈ THE KEY FACTORS FUELING GROWTH

WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. or up to one year a" er the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 202, NO. 53. Sunday, September 11, 2011. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks a" er receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive O! cer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating O! cer & Chief Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that Financial O! cer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative O! cer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing o! ces. Canada Post Publications Mail o# er products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these o# ers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. North , CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS,

O! ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. CHINSEE GEORGE BY TIM JENKINS; PRODUCTS BY HARRODS MIKE NAGLE; BY BORRIS; STOUTE DAN BY PHOTO WALSH

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EDITOR’S LETTER EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, WWD

PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY JENNY B. FINE EDITOR

State of the Union JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR ANDREA NAGEL MASS MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR n the past six months alone, WWD Beauty Inc has published JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR wonderfully compelling stories on ’s booming direct-sell MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR business, the evolution of the Indian fragrance market, ’s BELISA SILVA EDITORIAL ASSISTANT aggressive expansion into China and Southeast Asia and the global KATIE KRETSCHMER COPY EDITOR WENDY WANG EDITORIAL INTERN worldviews of some of beauty’s most powerful chief executives. But when we stopped to take stock, we realized that much of the uncertainty ART I ART DIRECTOR BARBARA SULLIVAN roiling the industry is happening in our own backyard: The U.S. The fi rst half REBECCA TULIS DESIGN INTERN of the year has certainly presented a mixed bag: Prestige beauty sales shot up CONTRIBUTORS just as the consumer confi dence index was heading towards a 30-year low; SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (London), MILES SOCHA (Paris), retail stock prices surged, but the unemployment rate stubbornly hovered at KERRY OLSEN (Milan), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL (), MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (Berlin), AMANDA KAISER (Tokyo) 9 percent. The contradictions aroused our curiosity, and the result is this, an issue entirely devoted to America. PHOTO CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITOR We started by asking questions: Who’s shopping today? Why? What is LEXIE MORELAND, ASHLEY LINN MARTIN ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITORS she looking for in terms of beauty products and experiences? And how ERIN FITZGERALD PHOTO COORDINATOR ROBERT COHEN PHOTO FACILITATOR did the recession permanently alter her consumption patterns, overall PHOTOGRAPHERS JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, and with beauty specifi cally. As you’ll see in “The Anxiety Gap,” the results KYLE ERICKSEN, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA are fascinating. One fact that became abundantly clear is that the affl uent are clearly driving sales; the concept of the upper middle class has all but BEAUTY INC ADVERTISING ALISON ADLER MATZ PUBLISHER, BEAUTY INC disappeared and the middle class itself remains wary about discretionary CYNTHIA BONIELLO BEAUTY MANAGER spending. “The recession is over, but the behavior people have learned JILL BIREN WEST COAST DIRECTOR ALLISON JOYCE WEST COAST MANAGER is not,” retail analyst Wendy Liebmann told me during the course of my ODILE EDA-PIERRE ACCOUNT MANAGER, PARIS interviews. Discover what the permanent changes are, and how they will SAM TODD BEAUTY SALES ASSISTANT

impact your business on page 28. MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES The nail category has not only not been hard hit during the recession, it JANET MENAKER EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING has positively thrived. Prestige nail sales soared 58 percent in the fi rst half DANIELLE MCMURRAY SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR KRISTEN M. WILDMAN EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, EVENT MARKETING of this year alone. As Rachel Brown reports in “Hand Power,” women have FABIO SALLES CREATIVE DIRECTOR turned to nail as an affordable indulgence, and the trend shows no signs of JENNIFER PINCUS DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING JULIA DONAHUE COPY DIRECTOR slowing down. Turn to page 34 for insight on how the category is expected ANJALI VIRMANI ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING to evolve, and the hottest products driving growth. BRIDGIT MAZZA SENIOR MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING MARISSA HAYES SENIOR MANAGER, DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT When it comes to infl uencing what women buy, few have a voice as BRIANNA LIPOVSKY SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER powerful as the beauty editor. While social media and the rise of bloggers JAMIE RUDOLPH MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING KRISTIN MOONEY MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING have certainly added to the chorus of credible advisors, a group of forward- JESSICA INTRONA ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING looking editors have retrenched and created new ways to dimensionalize DANIELLE K. STEWART COORDINATOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING the pages of their publications, both online and offl ine. As you’ll learn LEIGH ALCOTT MARKETING COORDINATOR in “Messenger Center,” on page 40, what was once a month-by-month PRODUCTION GENA KELLY VICE PRESIDENT, MANUFACTURING communication with readers has CHRIS WENGIEL GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR nownow become minute by minute—and KEVIN HURLEY PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

eveneve extended to the retail counter. CIRCULATION “People“Pe call it new media and social ELLEN DEALY SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR media,me but to me, it’s media,” says DAN DYNAN EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR JOHN CROSS ASSOCIATE AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR, PLANNING AND OPERATIONS TeenTe Vogue’s beauty director Eva JAMES ROSSI MARKETING DIRECTOR Chen.Ch “It’s different layers and RICHARD FRANZ CIRCULATION/SALES DIRECTOR everythingev has to serve its purpose.” FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA Chen’sC statement refl ects not only WILL SCHENCK CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER ELLIS MATTHEW ASSISTANT: PHOTO MODELS NYC; COVINGTON/PARTS MODEL: ASHLY theth new democratic approach to the SUZANNE REINHARDT VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE & OPERATIONS DAN SHAR VICE PRESIDENT, GENERAL MANAGER, DIGITAL disseminationd of information, it’s MELISSA BRECHER ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, MARKETING alsoa a perfect summation of how MICHAEL ATMORE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT DAN SCHEFFEY DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS wew live and shop in America today. KAREN CHIU BUSINESS DIRECTOR LetL me know what you think at DEVON BEEMER FINANCE DIRECTOR TANYA DAVIS BUSINESS ANALYST jenny_fij [email protected]. Nails strike gold JANET JANOFF GENERAL MANAGER at the retail level. —JENNY B. FINE NANCY BUTKUS CREATIVE DIRECTOR

PETER W. KAPLAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

GINA SANDERS PRESIDENT & CEO PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHNNY BUENAVENTURA; NAILS BY LISA LOGAN; LOGAN; LISA NAILS BY JOHNNY BUENAVENTURA; BY PHOTOGRAPHED

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6 WWD BEAUTY INC p!te unplugg!d

The Price Paradox Beauty sales may be on the rise, but the cost of raw materials continues to soar. PETE BORN talks coping strategies with beauty’s biggest suppliers and manufacturers.

emember the cliché about the worthlessness of a hill of Packaging designer Marc Rosen notes that the consumer has come to expect beans? Well, nobody is laughing now, particularly the mass market packaging to be just as attractive as the pricier department keepers of corporate P&Ls. store variety. One solution is to do new tricks with cheaper materials, such as Much has been written about cost increases, primarily inexpensive and sustainable aluminum, which can be anodized to look like in the consumer products industry, but beauty has also gold. “Designers should redefi ne what a luxury product looks like,” Rosen says, suffered strains from topsy-turvy price increases for key noting that the consumer instinctively equates heaviness with quality. Rosen ingredients grown by farmers on the other side of the world, hopes to help change attitudes to the point where people appreciate the inherent Rand even outbreaks of scarcity. Beauty is learning a few lessons in the true beauty of lighter-weight, more sustainable and inexpensive materials. One such meaning of sustainability. example is Eastar CN, a plastic resin made to look as luxurious as glass, with Fragrance suppliers are nurturing direct relationships with farmers by thick walls, sharp edges and bright clarity to show off the color of the product. guaranteeing them a market, a practice they adopted some years ago; product Nicolas Mirzayantz, group president of fragrances at IFF, notes avant- designers are pioneering use of cheaper, more sustainable packaging materials, garde thinking already is evident in packaging design. “Luxury has a different manufacturers are rethinking how they deal with the supply chain and meaning and there are different expectations,” he says. “It’s all about service “transparency” is the big word as fragrance houses talk to and experience.” He adds that in going back to the their customers about necessary price increases. fundamental building blocks of perfumery, “we are Some suppliers say the industry can no longer take for connecting back to the world.” granted that the key components of top-selling products “Fundamentally, the Maintaining that sales were up last year in local will always be available at tolerable prices. Within the past world economy in currencies, Gladys Gabriel, IFF’s vice president of sales and month, Givaudan, International Flavors & Fragrances raw materials has marketing for fragrance ingredients, asserts, “When you Inc. and Symrise all noted signifi cant increases in their have increases in demand, you have to have a good program overall raw materials costs. Givaudan reported a higher changed. We’re talking to ensure supply.” IFF made one of the most high profi le than expected 15 percent jump on a full-year basis. Other a dramatic shi! .” sustainability moves in 2000, when it acquired Laboratoire suppliers have cited sporadic price spikes, like double- Monique Remy in Grasse, , an organization that digit increases in the cost of blossom fl owers. for 30 years has been encouraging cultivation of natural “Clearly we have to manage more closely the security of ingredients to guarantee future supplies, putting IFF fi rst the supply of our ingredients,” says Felix Mayr-Harting, executive vice president in line to get the pick of the crop. “We invested in naturals to ensure long-term of fi ne fragrances at Givaudan, which expects to recoup half of this year’s sustainability,” he says. “If we are not providing revenue, [the farmers] will raw material cost increases through renegotiated price increases. Like other disappear.” As a result, Mirzayantz maintains that market pressures forced IFF to fragrance suppliers, Givaudan has conducted a number of sustainability projects take an action that ended up giving the company a competitive edge. with ingredient producers, most recently the vanilla growers in Madagascar. Foresight also is being prized at the manufacturing level. The Estée Lauder “Fundamentally, the world economy in raw materials has changed,” says Jerry Cos. has been sharpening its forecasting by reaching back into the supply chain. Vittoria, president of fi ne fragrances, North America, at Firmenich. “We’re By talking to the producers of plastic resins, for instance, Lauder can make key talking a dramatic shift in the marketplace,” he adds, noting that the growing decisions early in the product design game, according to Len DeCandia, senior affl uence of emerging markets has encouraged better eating habits in what used vice president and chief procurement offi cer. “We can defi ne what is important to be called the Third World and driven up the demand for food. Coupled with to the consumer while defi ning the cost implications,” he says. Then the product the growing demand for biofuels, there is now intense competition for farmland. teams can decide on the best execution. “Farmers now make a choice: ‘Do I want to grow patchouli or sugar cane?’ At , Pierre Pirard, executive vice president of product Other agricultural products are more lucrative,” Vittoria says. “Extreme weather development, says the best way to fi ght price increases is to outsource the conditions—droughts and fl oods—also impact prices, as does the weakness of manufacturing role to a much larger company and then leverage its enormous the dollar in buying imports.” Firmenich has partnered with farmers as far fl ung size. “We were doing the management of the supply chain and we were not as Uganda, Madagascar, Brazil and Haiti on sustainability projects. getting the benefi ts,” he recalls. Now that Arden is two-thirds of the way into the The problem is not restricted to agriculture. Non-organic materials, driven by transition, effi ciencies have improved. “It lets us do what we do best,” he says, the rising price of oil, can play havoc with packaging costs. These fl uctuations “understand the consumer.” Drop me a line at [email protected] and

in the supply chain could end up forcing a change in consumer aesthetics. let me know what you think. LARA TOMLIN BY ILLUSTRATION

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8 WWD BEAUTY INC corner office MASTER CLASS “When I fi nd myself doing something that seems like yesterday, that’s when I know I’m not paying Cultural attention to tomorrow.” Revolutionary STEVE STOUTE, PARTNER AND LEAD INVESTOR, Steve Stoute has built a multifaceted CAROL’S DAUGHTER empire by becoming the master of multicultural marketing. BY JENNY B. FINE / PHOTOGRAPHED BY MIKE NAGLE

teve Stoute’s memorabilia-laced penthouse offi ce is perched high above the hustle and bustle of Times Square, and no wonder. Stoute is a man who likes to be in the center of it all. As the founder of the advertising agencyS Translation, he’s been at the forefront of marketing to a multicultural consumer base. In 2005, he entered the beauty world, when he and some of his high-wattage friends—including Will and Jada Pinkett Smith and Shawn “Jay Z” Carter—invested in Carol’s Daughter. While he’s since ceded day-to-day duties to chief executive Richard Dantas and founder Lisa Price, Stoute remains a hands-on partner and lead investor, overseeing strategic brand expansion and partnerships. On the eve of the publication of his fi rst book, The Tanning of America, Stoute took some time out to talk about multicultural marketing, the beauty gap and why he never takes no for an answer.

You’ve become the go-to guy for the corporate behemoths who want to reach the urban market and its followers. Is the mainstream becoming more savvy about marketing to urban America? Urban culture has defi nitely infl uenced mainstream culture. Urban culture is where a lot of trends are developed, which then spread out wide and become mainstream consumption patterns. How do you market towards that? If the question is, how do you market or embrace this multicultural dimension of thought, and then use those trends and those demographics to help build your brand, I’ve seen a lot of brands do that very successfully. I’ve also seen a lot of brands look at that as a trend that won’t have sustainability in mainstream culture and fail to realize they should be a part of it. They subsequently fail. Has beauty become savvier when it comes to multicultural marketing? IN BRIEF Beauty has been one of the furthest behind of all Steve Stoute is the founder and chief executive o! cer of Translation, a division of the Interpublic Group. industries in understanding the needs of multicultural He started his career in 1990 in the music industry, rising to president of the urban music divisions people. Only in America could you fi nd a thing called an of both Entertainment and Interscope Ge" en A&M Records. In 2005, Stoute formed a ethnic beauty aisle. How could Beyoncé and partnership with the Brooklyn-based beauty brand, Carol’s Daughter. He has been instrumental in and Kerry Washington and Jennifer Lopez and all of transforming the brand from a single-store operation into over 1,000 doors, including Macy’s, Dillard’s these beautiful women be on the cover of magazines, yet and Sephora. Stoute’s fi rst book, The Tanning of America, is being published this month. if you want to buy the products they use for their hair or their makeup, it’s put in the ethnic (CONTINUED ON PAGE 10)

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MASTER CLASS: STEVE STOUTE CONTINUED FROM PAGE 8

beauty aisle. Why is there an ethnic beauty aisle? Why don’t you just put the and people who come from nothing using their brand to signify that they’ve whole thing in alphabetical order? Although women of different ethnicities arrived. It is everybody having a chance to say, “Look at me,” and that brand know they have special needs, they don’t want to be identifi ed via the ethnic [Louis Vuitton] signifi es that. That is a global reality. beauty aisle. The beauty business has been late to come to grips with that. What kind of cultural shifts do you think the recession has created? How do you see the industry evolving in the next two to fi ve years? Has consumption changed? It’s going to take mavericks who recognize that there is a shortfall in products The fi nancial uncertainty actually unites people. People come together in hard that speak to the polyethnic consumer. It’s not about product performance— times. The haves tend to become a little bit more accessible to the have-nots. that’s a given. I’m talking about the conversation around a product, the way You’ve been quoted as saying that trends are perishable, cool is forever. a product is marketed, the feel, the communication, the call to action. Those What’s a trend in beauty right now and what’s cool? things have to be modifi ed in order to appeal to the polyethnic audience. I What’s cool right now is allowing yourself not to be defi ned by a brand. remember our fi rst meeting with [Sephora’s] David Suliteanu and [HSN’s] Not allowing a brand to say, “If I wear this brand, then I fi t this particular Mindy Grossman. When I fi rst brought Carol’s Daughter to David, his main archetype.” So mixing brands, putting things together and disassembling the concern was did we have enough fi nancial backing in order one-brand phenomenon is cool. Reality TV, and using Facebook as the digital to keep supplies in stock and deal with supply- version of reality TV, is a trend. People are going to look at their Facebook chain issues, because he didn’t want to have a pages in fi ve years and it’s going to look like bad tattoos. conversation with his customers that he couldn’t Too much information? fi nish. David introduced me to Mindy, who put [There’s] too much information shared for no reason at all. Lisa Price on and we’ve become the third-biggest What will take its place? beauty brand on HSN. It takes mavericks like An analog lifestyle. Digital numbs you. It doesn’t teach them to help move the conversation forward. you how to look for information. One of the most In your new book, you write that color is no important things that ever happened to me in life longer a determining factor in how people was having to go to the library and research think. What is? things. The fact that people think they Ethnicity no longer predetermines your know everything because they can go on cultural values. What determines your Google and fi nd an answer is a short cut that cultural values is shared information—what removes the process of learning. you like and don’t like. People have access to With the launch of Mary J. Blige’s My Life all avenues of information. You can’t put people fragrance, you created a new distribution path in boxes because of their ethnicity and then for scent. What about the plan worked? determine they are going to like this color jean or When you are deprived of certain things, that this type of beauty product will appeal to them it forces you to be resourceful. When I fi rst or work for them. You can’t put them in that box any had the Mary J. Blige license, I went to the more because their shared interests with their peer big fragrance houses. Mind you it was 2008- groups allow them to have a much more peripheral 2009, and we had the recession and celebrity view on what other cultures are doing and fragrances were overdone, so I probably came at what may appeal to them. You need to have Mary J. Blige’s hit the wrong time. But I don’t think people understood a much more open minded and authentic My Life, and the Mary J. Blige. They thought it was an African American follow-up, Blossom. approach towards the conversation than a woman–only kind of thing, and it didn’t have a chance to be predetermined push down. global. When I got turned down, I still had to put this fragrance You also note that hip hop was able to grow from a small niche market into out. I went to Mindy Grossman and said, I really want to get this done. I’ll a full-grown dominant force because it became the bedrock of hard times. give it to you exclusively—it’s not like I had another choice. But I said, I think What similarities do you see between then and now, when there is so much people are going to buy this story because I watch fragrance houses all the time. uncertainty surrounding the economy? They spend all this money on photography because they’re trying to tell a story. With the growth of hip hop, a lot of people focused on the music. But the If it was just reliant on how the fragrance smelled, they would save a lot of music was nothing more than the Trojan horse for a culture that came behind money and send out the notes or sample the scent in a magazine. So I thought it. Music videos taught people how to dress, what to drink, how to speak to that if I can create a story, I can sell this fragrance on HSN. People trust the girls, how to dance. The culture that those videos brought, along with the celebrity. The reason why you bet on a celebrity is not only because of their fame, messaging of the songs, helped create something that blurred the lines of but because there is authenticity and trust. They trust that Mary J. Blige will demographics and ethnicity forever, for this transformation that I call tanning. not put out a bad product, so if I provide them the story, they will come. Mindy The fact that hip hop artists spoke from a very pure place of, “I came from believed in that premise and we used HSN as a story-telling medium and sold nothing, and I’m going to use brands as aspirations to show that I’m moving more fragrance bottles that day than anyone could possibly expect. forward in life, so I wear Louis Vuitton, I drink Dom Perignon.” They were What was the key learning and what would you do different next time? using those brands to show the world they’re moving forward, that they do The key learning was follow your gut instinct. My gut instinct was that Mary have aspirations in life, that they don’t want to be stuck in poverty. That is a could sell fragrance, but if I listened to the beauty houses that were saying

universal language. LVMH should be very thankful for third world countries no and I allowed that to stop me, we would never have My Life. What would CHINSEE GEORGE BY PHOTO PRODUCT

BB1109-PG08(10,11)-CO-Masterclass.a;13.indd 3 8/30/11 1:42 PM WWDBEAUTY INC 11 CEW LIVE SPEAKERS SERIES LEARN. CONNECT. GROW.

VIEW FROM THE TOP: CEO ANDREA JUNG Reflects on Avon’s 125 Years

MaryMa J. Blige I have done differently? Honestly, nothing. on set at HSN, Now we’re launching the Blossom fragrance above.ab The Tan- on HSN, and we’re taking My Life mass ningnin of America, NEWSMAKER FORUM Stoute’sSto new and we got everybody. We went right from book,bo le! . ANDREA JUNG HSN to mass and that has never been done before—never. Chairman and Chief Executive Officer How do you see celebrity marketing of , Inc. evolving when it comes to beauty? We’ve got to edit. We are going too crazy with it. Somebody better stop. There’s a truth that September 21, 2011 no one wants to talk about. People are buying It’s not about fi nancial success. That’s a by- Harmonie Club, NYC Q scores and not buying true impact. They are product of the aforementioned. buying popularity over content and substance. What’s the hardest business decision 5:30 PM - Cocktails How would you describe your management you’ve made? 6:30 PM - 7:30 PM - Program style? Looking at the last four years, as the world has My management style has evolved. I started as changed dramatically and quickly, the hardest an entrepreneur when I was in my early 20s decisions to make have been over that period and I used to think everybody was a type-A of time. Any decision that has long-term personality, so I would treat everybody as implications is very tough right now, because such and that was not a winning hand. I’ve you don’t have long-term perspective when become much more patient. At the end of the the landscape keeps changing drastically. You Register Now day, you want people to do exactly what they have to be very good at winning the short- say they’re going to do or at least try really term bets. It doesn’t change that you have CEW.ORG hard. You have to accept that people fail, but an end game, that you have a vision in mind when they fail, they have to fi nd the learnings of where you want to take your brand and Sponsored by: so they can succeed in the future. I allow that company, but it forces you to be really, really space to exist where I wouldn’t allow it before. good on your short-term bets. What do you do to relax? What’s the end game? I love to travel to Europe, go to remote The end game is to build companies that destinations and explore. I hang out with my are in culture, that respect culture, that are six-year-old daughter and learn from her. successful for all the right reasons, to be in Recently, I’ve gotten into wine. I love tasting businesses that are always involved with what wines from different regions around the tomorrow looks like. I don’t ever want to world. Learning the wine-making process and stop working or being curious about life and the blends is fascinating to me. business. When I fi nd myself doing something What drives you? that seems like yesterday, that’s when I know

PRODUCT PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE GEORGE BY PHOTO PRODUCT Dreams, winning, changing the landscape. I’m not paying attention to tomorrow.

%%3*  &20DVWHUFODVVDLQGG 30 12 WWD BEAUTY INC !orner o" !e

CATCHING UP WITH ON THE MOVE

Beauty Legend The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. named CARL HANEY executive vice Andie MacDowell president, global research and With one of the longest-running beauty contracts in the development (R&D), corporate product business, actress/model Andie MacDowell proves that innovation, package development, L’Oréal Paris certainly thinks she’s worth it. Over the 25 beginning January 1, 2012. He will years she’s spent with the company, MacDowell, now report to president and chief executive 53, has represented a long list of L’Oréal products; her o! cer FABRIZIO FREDA, and replaces latest campaign is for Visible Lift Brush , HARVEY GEDEON, who is retiring. which launched in July. In a world where replacing Haney joins Lauder from P&G, where longtime spokespeople with younger faces is the norm, MMacDowells’sacDowells’s longevity is notable. most recently he was vice president, “Beauty isn’t about how old you are,” she says. “Women shouldhould be aableble to ffeeleel gogoodod aaboutbout R&D, male grooming, Gillette, themselves no matter what their age.” The model/actress says she feels much happier with Braun and devices....CLARISA herself now than when she was younger. “I see in young girls what I did to myself—they are so WILSON was named president critical, and their expectations are so unrealistic. They won’t show their legs because they thinkk of Fashion Fair , they’re fat. I did that too—but now I see myself as a full person. I don’t break myself into pieces.s. the cosmetics brand owned

I tell my daughters all the time that what they have is wonderful and they need to embrace it.” by Johnson Publishing CLARISA WILSON MacDowell says that from the beginning, L’Oréal understood her. “I come from a small town anandd MacMacDowellDowell in a Company. Wilson has am self-made. When I’m not working, I’m in jeans, but I can go down the carpet if need be. I want to 1987 makeup ad, extensive experience in beauty, including top, and today. be seen as a normal person—I just have a very interesting job.” Her latest projects include the remake of as president of Carol’s Daughter. She Footloose, expected in October, and a new series for ABC Family called Jane By Design. She still counts reports to DESIREE ROGERS, chief her role in 1989’s Sex, Lies and Videotape as one of her absolute favorites. “She was a sexually repressed woman executive o! cer of Johnson Publishing who’d never had an orgasm, and wouldn’t speak about her sexuality in therapy so just talked about garbage. Company...Former Macy’s executive And her sister was having an affair with her husband. Now, that is a character.” —JULIE NAUGHTON MARK COSBY will join CVS Pharmacy as president, e" ective October 1. He succeeds LARRY MERLO, who was promoted to president and ceo MY FIRST JOB of CVS Caremark in March. Cosby previously served as Macy’s president The Indefatigable Skin Care Entrepreneur Ole Henriksen of stores....L’Oréal has made two I was 12 years old when I took my with exercise into my life today. Every morning, I wake key appointments to its executive fi rst job as a milk delivery boy. up early and exercise on the parallel bars and gymnastics committee. GEOFF SKINSGLEY, formerly It was the best-paying job in my rings in my backyard. It gives me the perfect amount of managing director of human resources, small working class village of Nibe, energy before I start my work day. has been appointed to the new position Denmark, because no one my age Being a milk delivery boy taught me so many lessons of managing director of the wanted to get up at 5 a.m. to do that I took into my adulthood. (1) It was all about Africa and Middle East zone. heavy labor. I would ride my bicycle building relationships with my customers. I wouldn’t JEROME TIXIER, a L’Oréal just ring the doorbell, collect empty bottles and deliver OLE HENRIKSEN over to the village square where I veteran, will succeed him.... The exec today... would meet the facility manager milk. I would greet people by Mr. or Mrs., memorize NYX Professional SCOTT FRIEDMAN and help load the glass bottles and their order and ask how their children were doing. Makeup named SCOTT heavy steel cartons of milk into the truck. (2) It was about my customers feeling happy with my FRIEDMAN chief executive o! cer, a role Having a job afforded me the opportunity to spoil my service. I’ve always strived to make people feel their best previously held by brand founder TONI family with gifts, contribute to the household and save and when they feel their best because of something I KO. Ko will now serve as chief creative money. Because I was so customer-service oriented, I helped them with, it is that much more fulfi lling. (3) director. Friedman was previously earned extra tips. Ultimately, the money I saved in tips I learned the true value of hard work and a healthy ceo of Allegro Mfg., a manufacturer helped take me out of the small village competitive spirit, focus, passion of cosmetics, organizers and and into the big city of Copenhagen, the and discipline. accessories....The Fragrance Foundation fi rst of many big cities that I lived in. I still carry my has created a specialized committee I enjoyed so many aspects of my milk dedication and work ethic dedicated to developing the recognition, job, but the best part was the adrenaline into everything . It understanding and appreciation of “indie” rush I got from waking up early, hopping amazes me to think fragrance brands and their creators. Its on my bicycle and racing from house to how much my fi rst job members are MANDY AFTEL, ARNAUD house on a fl atbed truck delivering milk. has shaped the man I ADRIAN, ROCHELLE BLOOM, FREDERICK Since my delivery route ended at 7:30 a.m. am today. BOUCHARDY, KARL BRADL, VIRGINIA and school started at 8, I would always BONOFIGLIO, DENISE CAPOZZALO, arrive at school with so much energy. I ...and as a young VICTORIA FRILOVA, MARY ELLEN man in Denmark. carry the practice of starting my day off LAPSANSKY, CARRIE MEREDITH and RALF SWEIGER. PRODUCT PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; HENRIKSEN COURTESY OF OLE HENRIKSEN CHINSEE; HENRIKSEN COURTESY GEORGE BY PHOTOS PRODUCT

BB1109-PG12-CO-MIX.a;9.indd 2 8/30/11 1:50 PM FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Are We There Yet?, I Eat Mainely Lobster, My Address is “Hollywood,” Color to Diner For, Honk If You Love OPI, Road House Blues, Suzi Takes the Wheel, French Quarter for Your Thoughts, Uh-Oh Roll Down the Window, A-taupe the Space Needle, Get in the Expresso Lane, I Brake for

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Clockwise from top right: L’Occitane Immortelle Precious Night Cream, Smoky Lash Couleur in #5 Dark Blue, Sephora Collection Smoky Eyeliner in Blue, Too Faced Intense Eye Shadow Singles in Midnight Mist, Dior Vernis in Blue Denim. Background: Nars Outremer Single Eyeshadow.

Blue Valentine Feeling blue may be a good thing, according to some color theorists, who studied the shade and concluded it can lower pulse rates and regulate body temperature. In the hopes of reducing crime, countries like Scotland and have even commissioned the installation of blue-hued on streets and in train stations. “Blue is a color that is hugely preferred by almost everyone,” says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Color Institute. “It has a magical aspect to it, a metaphysical connection.” Blue is big for fall beauty, too, specifi cally a bold, saturated, unapologetically blue kind of blue. Take Nars’ Outremer shadow, used as the background of this picture, and which is characterized by purple undertones and an electric intensity. “ gains attention without doing the obvious,” says Eiseman. “It’s a high-energy, vibrant blue that just speaks to people. They respond to it.” —BELISA SILVA

PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE

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RECOGNIZING EXCELLENCE

BARBARA DELFINO HAS IN LUXURY SERVICE PROVIDED OUTSTANDING SERVICE TO CLIENTS AT MEET BARBARA DELFINO, KIEHL’S FLAGSHIP STORE FOR 14 YEARS. CUSTOMER REPRESENTATIVE AT KIEHL’S FLAGSHIP STORE,

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO BECOME A CUSTOMER REPRESENTATIVE? I went in as a customer for Creme with Silk Groom – I was a hair stylist then – and I was treated with real warmth. I wanted to work there.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE PART OF BEING A KIEHL’S CUSTOMER REPRESENTATIVE? I love having conversations with different people. Initially it’s about skincare but then you build a rapport and make them feel happy that they got a great new product.

ANY ADVICE ON BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS WITH YOUR CLIENTS? Just be honest. Kiehl’s was built on letting the customer try products, and I help them fi nd what is best suited to them. It’s not about just selling something.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU OFFER AN ASPIRING KIEHL’S CUSTOMER REPRESENTATIVE? Do it passionately. Really, truly want to be there for the customer.

WHAT MOTIVATES YOU EVERY DAY? It’s not just a job, it’s my job, and I feel proud to have it. Seeing people, working with them, the excitement of showing new products.

WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FAVORITE BEAUTY PRODUCTS? Baby , Coriander Body Wash, , masks and , and Superbly Restorative Argan Dry Oil.

WHAT DOES THE KIEHL’S BRAND MEAN TO YOU? Natural ingredients. Purity. Caring. Giving back. “ IT’S NOT JUST A JOB. YOU HAVE TO PUT YOUR HEART INTO IT.”

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PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE

18 WWD BEAUTY INC b!auty bull!tin

LAUNCH WINDOW Fragrance

BURBERRY BODY BOND NO. 9 I LOVE EAU DE PARFUM NEW YORK FOR HER, Designed to refl ect all aspects HIM AND EVERYBODY of the Burberry brand, this fresh fl oral, For the 10th anniversary fronted by British beauty Rosie Huntington- of Sept. 11, Bond No. Whiteley, has notes of absinthe, 9 collaborated with IFF absolute, peach and sandalwood. The jewel- and the State of New like fl acon was inspired by architecture and the York for the I Love NY classic Burberry trench. $95 collection. Each has Big Apple-inspired notes and the classic logo. $175 each

ELIE SAAB LE PARFUM Created by celebrated perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, CARTIER BAISER BULGARI JASMIN NOIR ACQUA DI PARMA CALVIN KLEIN CK ONE the Paris-based fashion VOLÉ EAU DE PARFUM L’ESSENCE EAU DE PARFUM GELSOMINO NOBILE SHOCK FOR HER label’s debut fragrance Designed to appeal to This homage to the jasmine EAU DE PARFUM This Touted as addictive and is a fl oral-solar-woody a younger clientele, fl ower has a heart of sambac olfactory ode to Calabrian impulsive, this eau de fusion of orange this lily-based EDP and grandifl orum jasmine. jasmine draws inspiration toilette contains notes blossom, fl ower, from Cartier perfumer Notes of almond, bergamot, from a blooming Italian of liquid chocolate, Elie Saab rose honey and cedar Mathilde Laurent myrrh and precious woods garden and also includes blackberry, passionfl ower, fuses fl oral, wood. $120 features notes from the complement the powdery evocative notes of orange peony and “second solar and lily’s petals, leaves and fl oral scent, imagined by blossom, tuberose, cedar skin” musk, housed woody notes. pistils, complemented perfumers Sophie Labbé and and musk. $170 in a lipstick-scrawled by vanilla. $145 Olivier Polge. $105 lacquered bottle. $65

Skin Care The Italian fashion fi rm Bottega Veneta enters fragrance.

BY KILIAN SWEET BOTTEGA VENETA TIME TO AVON ANEW GENICS BIO- REDEMPTION THE END EAU DE PARFUM REVITALIZE EXTREME TREATMENT CREAM PERFORMANCE ANTI-REDNESS CREAM The 10th and fi nal The old-world fashion DAY CREAM Containing Avon scientists worked ADVANCED SUPER Created for those fragrance in By Kilian’s fi rm introduces a leathery ingredients from the with researchers in REVITALIZING CREAM with visible redness L’Oeuvre Noire collection fl oral chypre inspired by lowest and highest who discovered a To address the weakening and rosacea, this has blends orange blossom, the Venetian countryside. points on earth, this “youth” gene in study of elastic fi bers in the anti-infl ammatories sour orange leaf absolute, Notes include mown hay, antiager blends Tibetan participants. Ten years skin, Shiseido developed like sea whip extract incense and benzoin, and earth and wood atop goji berries, Himalayan in the works, this cream a complex of bio-yeast, and vegetable proteins was inspired by the poetry patchouli, oak moss and raspberry root extract purports to stimulate raspberry extracts and to calm the skin, and of Charles Baudelaire and spices; the fl acon was and Icelandic moss. $68 this gene, boosting skin super bio-hyaluronic antiredness agents to Jim Morrison. $225 inspired by a carafe. $130 proteins. $38 acid. $98 reduce blotchiness. $40

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20 WWD BEAUTY INC b!auty bull!tin

Where to… Celebrate a sealed deal: When drinks are in order, head to the HÔTEL MAJESTIC BARRIÈRE CANNES. The fi ve-star hotel has a fabulous bar area that’s fi t for a fete. Open daily, 9 a.m.-1 a.m. (10 Boulevard de la Croisette, Tel.: +33-4-92-98-77-00)

Dance the night away: THE DA DA DA bills itself as a hybrid club bridging cabaret, theater, disco and midnight movies. Open daily, 9:30 p.m.-2:30 a.m. (15 Rue des Frères Pradignac. Tel.: +33-4-93-39-62-70.) Also try the BÂOLI BEACH, a dance venue serving lunch and dinner, too. Open daily, 10:30 a.m.-1 a.m. (50 Boulevard de la Croisette, Tel.: +33-4-93-99-49-26.)

Pamper yourself: VENULYS carries fragrance brands such as Clive Christian, Bond No. 9, Czech and Speake and SoOud. Open Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m.-1 p.m. and 2:30 p.m.-7:30 p.m. (6 Rue Buttura, Tel.: +33-4-93-68-52-45.) TAIZO’s shelves are chockablock with names like , Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, Lorenzo Villoresi and Odile Lecoin. Open Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m. -7 p.m. (120 Rue d’Antibes, Tel.: +33-4-93-39-57-58.) THERMES MARINS DE CANNES, part of the Radisson Blu 1835 Hotel & Thalasso, boasts 46 treatment rooms and an in-depth service list. Open daily, 9 FRANCE a.m.-7 p.m. (47 Rue Georges Clémenceau. Tel.: +33-4-92-99-50-10.) Embark on a cultural quest: Follow the harbor away from Boulevard de la Croisette to the Vieux Port and start climbing the hill O toward Cannes’ old city. It’s called Le Suquet and boasts sites like the EGLISE PAROISSIALE SAINT JOSEPH and NOTRE DAME D’ESPÉRANCE CITY GUIDE churches, and the TOUR DU MASQUE, a 12th-century tower. En route, take in some tasty fare at LA PIZZA, open Monday-Saturday, 9 a.m. -6 p.m. (3 Quai Saint-Pierre, Tel.: +33-4-93-39-22-56.) There’s also What to See in Cannes GASTON ET GASTOUNETTE, open daily, 12 p.m.-2 p.m. and 7 p.m.-11 The red carpet unfurls Sept. 18 for the Tax Free World Association (TFWA) p.m. (6-7 Quai Saint-Pierre, Tel.: +33-4-93-39-47-92.) World Exhibition in Cannes, which runs through Sept. 23. While in town, Get fresh fruit, veg and fl owers: A week of pounding the pavement at a trade show can make folks hanker for fresh produce. For BY JENNIFER WEIL make time to visit these hot spots. that and fl oral pick-me-ups, there’s MARCHÉ FORVILLE. The market is open daily (although on Mondays it’s a fl ea market), 7 a.m.-1 p.m. (12 Rue Louis Blanc, Tel.: +33-4-93-39-11-20.) The schedule at TFWA is often grueling. If some RUE D’ANTIBES shopping therapy is called for, follow this itinerary to For high-end labels alongside a wide selection fi nd the crème de la crème of French style. Just be sure of brands at accessible price points, stroll over to to bring your card. the Rue d’Antibes; it’s a bit further inland and Survival Guide arcs around the Croisette. For a fast-fashion fi x, Ariel Gentzbourger, senior vice BOULEVARD DE LA CROISETTE Zara has locations at numbers 9 and 90-94 Rue president of Shiseido Europe, Cannes’ majestic Boulevard de la Croisette, which d’Antibes, and Mango is at number 84. Jacques spends most of her days at the sweeps around the harbor and abuts the Palais des Loup at number 21 and Loup 47 (at 47, as TFWA show on her feet. So Festivals (home to the TFWA show), has long been the its name suggests) are multibrand stores shoe-wise, semi-high heels are de Ariel Gentzbourger stuff of dreams. Silver-screen stars like Brigitte Bardot, peddling women’s, men’s and children’s rigueur. “The most comfortable Elizabeth Taylor and Grace Kelly have spangled its wear plus accessories from brands like are Ferragamo pumps, if I’m wearing a dress, or walkway. It’s no wonder that France’s most storied Marc Jacobs, Moncler, Fendi and Marni. Ferragamo small-heel boots, if I’m in a pants luxury brands have all set up shop there. The legendary The Trabaud shop, at number 48, suit,” says Gentzbourger, who favors Hugo street has become a veritable who’s who of high fashion also carries a swath of labels, such Boss (“the materials are really quite cool”) and jewelry names. as D&G, Armani Jeans and Seven and a Céline bag by day. At night, Start from the very beginning, and there’s Chanel for all Mankind. Need a soft cotton Gentzbourger opts for Armani fashion at number 5, followed by Chanel and Chopard T-shirt to knock about in? Petit clothes and an Yves Saint Laurent joaillerie at number 9. Gucci is a hop away at number Bateau stocks an extensive range of shoulder bag. Given TFWA’s 11, then, six doors down is the Galerie Marchande styles and colors at number 50. For grueling pace, she follows a strict Gray d’Albion, a high-end shopping center including costume jewelry, Reminiscence is at skin care routine revolving around two key the likes of Hermès, Boucheron, Ermenegildo Zegna number 51. Sephora is at number products: Shiseido’s Future Solution LX and boutiques such as Le Shop 17, a multibrand store 5, while Montblanc is at number Daytime Protective Cream SPF 15 and carrying labels such as Carven, Jean Paul Gaultier, 87. Of course beachwear abounds Bio-Performance Super Corrective Barbara Bui and Mandalay. in Cannes. Banana Moon (at 78) Serum. “The serum makes sure More fashion and accessories are to be had further has a wide selection, and Vilebrequin, at Some of you get fantastic hydration and along the Croisette at Louis Vuitton, Dior, Céline number 37, specializes in splashy swim Gentzbourger’s also a bit of a tensing e! ect,” says staples. and Emporio Armani, numbers 22, 38, 43 and 52, trunks for men and boys. For department- Gentzbourger. Sun protection is a respectively. Cartier has a store at number 57, while not store shopping, there’s Galeries Lafayette must in sunny Cannes, and for that she uses too far away are Hugo Boss and Escada (at 62), Yves at 6 Rue du Maréchal Foch, a small street Shiseido Urban Environment UV Protection Cream

Saint Laurent (at 65) and Roberto Cavalli (at 67). jutting off from Rue d’Antibes. SPF 30. Tom Ford sunglasses shield her peepers. FRON/123RF MATEUSZ BEACH: CANNES ELENA ELISSEEVA/SHUTTERSTOCK; HOTEL: CANNES JOHN AQUINO; BY PHOTO RUNWAY BOSS HUGO

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PHOTOS BY TIM JENKINS H Harrods has long carried an offering perfumery, or Black Hall. While cosmetics brands, and Harrods’ the White Hall, which carries major Lifestyle Beauty hall, also known as and Kiehl’s Rosa Arctica cream. cream (a concept exclusive to Harrods) dedicated to its Absolue Precious Cells fragrance, a Lancôme boutique Acqua Di Parma’s Gelsomino Nobile called Navigations Through Scent, fragrance line from fi includeanew to thestore.They around 50 brands, many exclusive space, which bowed in July, carries and innovative beauty products. The Beauty Apothecary, dedicated to niche NINA JONES Now Apothecary storied beauty halls. RETAIL NEWS The room complements the store’s checks out the latest addition to Harrods’ 4,000-square-foot a gleaming new store, has unveiled London department arrods, the iconic ne explain the products. “We wanted to many stations have iPads installed to customers can see them in action, and devices. All the products are set up so care brush and No No Therapy products, Clarisonic’s skin gadgets including Quasar MD’s Light area, which displays electronic beauty with Harrods’ DNA,” says Quest. elegance—those things are synonymous “a certain modernity…but timeless crystal chandelier, is designed to evoke sleek bronzefi mother-of-pearl tiles on the walls, which is done out with shimmering for beauty at Harrods. The room, general merchandise manager browsable,” says Annalise Quest, as “shoppable, approachable and area, designed to showcase the range space houses the brands in a bespoke of apothecary products, the new A focal point is the Techno Beauty ttings and a glittering care. Whereas we might have popped about your hands, your teeth, even hair not just about antiaging products—it’s elements to her regime,” says Quest. “It’scustomer] was looking for additional with nutritional supplements. “[Our exclusive to the store, which is presented and Visoanska, a line of skin care that’s Functionalab skin care supplements, Go Smile teeth-whitening products, cross from beauty into lifestyle, namely Floris. And there are products that Miller Harris, Annick Goutal and as Diptyque, L’Artisan Parfumeur, wall, which carries niche lines such says Quest. “It’s an experience.” where you can come and test and try,” create an environment that was fun, b!auty bull!tin The space also boasts a new fragrance collection, which will set upapop- whichwillset collection, for Estée Lauder and Chanel’s color , Tom Pechaux’s collection They include Tom Ford beauty, MAC, will house color-led makeup lines. begin to unveil a new Color Hall, which Harrods. In September, the store will developments on the horizon for would expect that trend to continue.” initial results support that and we around thebeauty fl “It has certainly created a lot of buzz reaction so far has been “fantastic.” prediction for the Apothecary, she says like skin care.” now hair care is about treating the hair into a pharmacy [for hair products], And there’s yet more beauty While Quest declined to give a sales WWD [the Color Hall] will give.” [mindset] and that’s what fashion trend–focused with…a little more of a are shopping for makeup Says Quest, “Customers between the two brands. of a wider collaboration Harrods, which is part exclusive collection for Chanel is also creating an up space in the area.

BEAUTY INC oor,” she says. “The 21 8/31/11 1:22PM 22 WWD BEAUTY INC consumer chronicles

75 Middlesex Turnpike 75 Middlesex Turnpike

UNDERCOVER SHOPPER On Beauty’s Trail in Boston In search of an updated makeup look, Beauty Inc’s KATHERINE BOWERS hits Boston’s popular Burlington Mall.

ocation, location, location: An old real estate counters, it felt like a karmic nudge: Time adage, sure, but it’s why the Burlington Mall, an to update my look. Something I’d been Boston, NORDSTROM unprepossessing indoor mall about 20 miles west wanting to do, but approximately 98th USA The service-friendly of Boston, in Burlington, Mass., is a metro-area on a 100-item To Do list. department store has a broad kingpin. It doesn’t have dramatic architecture Here’s the demographic scoop on and appealing selection—but L Bowers, a beauty novice, or retailers you can’t fi nd elsewhere, but because the mall sits me: I’m 38, married, two kids; my at the intersection of three major commuting routes (routes husband and I both work. I don’t buy longed for more visible sta! 95, 93 and 3), it’s always busy. Simon Property Group doesn’t beauty products often. Correction, I don’t recommendations. release specifi cs on sales or visits, but let’s just say this: On buy (or wear) makeup often. Skin care and sunblock I believe weekend nights, waits at any of the restaurants run several in. I usually purchase those in Whole Foods during a grocery LORD & TAYLOR hours, the holiday Santa makes out like a bandit and rings of run. There’s no glamour or trend advice in those aisles, but I Bowers loved the store’s smaller centers have been built around the outskirts of the can peruse ingredient lists to my heart’s content—something chic design, but found sales mall to sop up the extra demand. Burlington is anchored by I do regularly with nearly everything I buy as I think about associates in short supply at Macy’s, Lord & Taylor, Sears and Nordstrom. chemicals and health. some counters.

When I got this assignment to secret-shop local makeup This trip I wanted something different, to sit down with COLANGELO MEGHAN BY PHOTOS

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a makeup artist and get expert input. I keep my wardrobe I steer the conversation around to lips. Soft color, nothing current, so why not my makeup? that’ll mark up the kids or hubby when I kiss them. I end up I hit Nordstrom fi rst. In a few short years, it’s become a buying a Hydratint, a kind of turbo-charged Chapstick that family staple, where we get my husband’s suits and my kids’ has (yahoo!) SPF 15. It’s a good outcome. I’ve wanted lip sun shoes. But I’ve overlooked the beauty offerings for years protection, the price is very reasonable ($20) and the color is because I get sucked into the adjacent shoe department. terrifi c. I’d happily buy another again. Now that I’m here, the beauty department is smaller and With my clean-canvas face (primer, tinted denser than I expected. In fact, it feels a little squeezed. and on), I’m ready to play. Aesthetically, Lord There are four-top tables like in a restaurant, with trays & Taylor is my favorite of this mall’s anchors. The store, set in the middle to hold wipes and tissues. There are lots which has great dresses, was redone within the last fi ve BEAUTY ADVISER of freestanding shelf cubes and good brand variety (Trish years. It’s lovely. Whether it’s the , or the shining, CONFIDENTIAL McEvoy, L’Occitane, Kiehl’s and Deborah Lippmann, pure-white fl oor, the product pops beautifully. The beauty to name just a few). There’s a lot here, and what I want department has chic white leather high-top chairs and tall Beauty Advisor Talks is a table of staff recommendations like you’d see at an vases of green reeds for a clean, bright and natural feel. independent bookstore. Maybe I’m too addicted to Web site An artist at Dior looks Trends and Services reviews, but a little editorial llike she’s in for the long haul I have worked at a makeup counter for opinion would be nice amidst wwith a client, so I play by seven years and am trained as a makeup the sea of choices. Inside Nordstrom. mmyself with glittering Nars artist as well. My typical consumer is a Then I see a huge sign at eeye shadows. Galapagos is fashion-savvy, cosmopolitan woman Bobbi Brown: “Tired of Dark a shimmering copper while between 25 and 40 years old, who isn’t Circles? Give us Five Minutes.” X-Rated is an incandescent afraid to try new trends and stylish Accomplish something in chartreuse. How fun, if colors. The beauty advisors at my fi ve minutes? I’m in! I’d be in someone could show me counter are trained every season in new Bobbi’s corner in a fl ash, except how to wear them? Yet, techniques and looks, based on the both chairs are occupied with when I track down an latest trends. We recently learned how other customers. associate in a Lancôme to give a “glowy” complexion, which I end up in front of a wall of vest and ask about Nars, I I achieve by adding a swipe of golden Jo Malone, with no intention of hear I’m out of luck. The eye shadow or to the cheek and buying a fragrance, but drawn by artist for that counter then blending. When a shopper comes the elegant packaging. Feeling has moved away, and the to my counter, I start by sitting her a little lost, I ramble to the Jo “Maybe I’m too addicted to position is unstaffed for the down. When a client is comfortable, Malone associate about my desire Web site reviews, but a little foreseeable future. Those colors, she’s more likely to ask questions to try a light foundation. “Tinted editorial opinion would be nice.” while gorgeous, aren’t ones you about products and spend more. I like moisturizer,” she pronounces and can just wing. to let my customers know that the line steers me to , talking The Lancôme associate says I represent is exclusive and available in the whole way about how she uses and loves hers. (At last, she’s off to a meeting, but I delay her long enough to ask her only a handful of U.S. stores, which also the personal endorsement I’d been looking for.) to fi nd (and sell) me the Laura Mercier concealer I’d wanted makes them more inclined to purchase. Soon I’m in a chair and a Mercier artist is swabbing in Nordstrom ($34 for two kinds of concealer and a setting I start my consultation by asking about on primer with a wedge sponge. Then on to moisturizer, powder that I had no idea came with it and I have no idea the person—what is her personal style? which felt pleasingly light. We discussed some of my how to use). Where should I go for color? Clearly anxious to Is she adventurous when it comes to burning questions: Does the product contain parabens make the meeting, she glances around and says, “Oh, there’s makeup? Does she have any special skin (yes, but less than .2 percent, she says) and should I put on someone at Chanel who can help you.” needs like oiliness or redness? I examine sunblock before makeup or after? Offi cially, Laura Mercier I feel passed-off and might’ve left, but Chanel is, well, her face and make recommendations recommends sunblock as the fi nale, over everything else you Chanel. The artist paints on a going-out look for my eyes personalized to her traits. Recently, I’ve do, but the sunscreen I usually wear (whitening, sometimes that was glam but soft. My favorite is the liquid shadow in noticed a lot of requests for a bright gloppy) would wreck the fi nal effect. The real “aha!” is the a swamp-green shade (offi cially called Torrent). It goes on tangerine or bold red-orange lip. I always concealer. The artist used a super-creamy, light-refl ecting as a delicate wash that’s easy to layer and blend. The gold ask the customer how she likes it and if formula under my eyes. I never realized that the under-eye powder shadow, a last touch, doesn’t seem like a must, nor I should pull the shade from our stock area requires a different item than, say, a spot on my nose. No the purple mascara (“It comes out a soft brown on your eyes,” for her to purchase. Depending on the caking, no making the, ahem, “laugh lines” look deeper. I love the artist coaxes, but I have black lashes so what’s the point answer and enthusiasm to purchase, it. It’s a slam-dunk sale. of turning them brown?) I buy the purple eye pencil, in part I will continue to sample products on But they’re out of stock in my shade. Worse, the sales because she shows me a couple of new ways to use it and has her or I will politely cut the makeover associate doesn’t know when it’ll be restocked, and advises me practice. Do these artists work in part on commission? I short. Our policy is that a makeover me to call back in a couple of weeks. That’s a bummer. She hope so, because the pencil purchase ($29) is a thank-you. is complimentary with a purchase and does offer to have it sent, but that doesn’t seem sensible Bottom line, a good visit. No one “attacked” with I have to always be aware of who is (we both have visions of a heat wave and it melting in my a fragrance to spray. The brand choice at both stores coming to buy and who is coming for mailbox). She ends up creating samples by scooping and was good, but since I was going there for service and a free service. This is the job’s biggest squirting stuff into empty pots, telling me I should try the expertise, I wanted more on that score. More opinions, challenge. [EDITOR’S NOTE: This was primer and moisturizer at home fi rst. It’s not a soft sell, it’s more conversation and yes, a little more (skillful) selling. written by a cosmetics salesperson at a

PHOTOS BY MEGHAN COLANGELO MEGHAN BY PHOTOS an un-sell. But I came here task-focused, ready to spend! Still, I’ll be back—without waiting as long next time. specialty store chain in the East.]

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NORDSTROM MAC COSMETICS WHAT’S SELLING WHERE EYESHADOW IN SATIN SHROOM, $15 “It is a beautiful, shimmery THE BEAUTY MARK nude shade, and it works JULIE HEWETT Eye Shadow pretty much on every skin COLOUR IN According to The NPD Group, tone. You can wear it alone MYSTERE, $18 or you can put it under “Customers love it eye shadow sales soared a smoky eye. Also, MAC because it can be applied 11 percent for the fi rst half eye shadows are our most with fi ngers and can of 2011 in the U.S. Here, we popular because they blend also be layered over a easily, and they are very powder shadow to give asked some leading retailers long wearing, so they get the eye some pop. I use for their bestsellers. through the entire day.” it for a variety of looks, —Cheri Botiz, national from bridal to evening beauty and fragrance makeup.” —Amy Chien director Bailey, owner Seattle, Wash.

Boston, MA STANLEY KORSHAK CHANEL LES 4 OMBRES IN SPICES, $57 Brentwood “Great neutral colors that blend easily and look good Country Mart, Santa Monica, on everyone.” —Audrey Elliott, Chanel specialist MACY’S Calif. BOBBI BROWN METALLIC EYE SHADOW IN BLACK Dallas, Texas CHARCOAL, $20 “It can be worn either as an SPACE NK eye shadow to create a so! BY TERRY OMBRE Beach, FL or dramatic smoky eye, or as BLACKSTAR IN eyeliner applied dry or wet to BLOND OPAL, create more of a glam look. $42.50 The formula is long wearing, “The pencil-like which is especially important shadow is easy to in our year-round heat and apply, provides a long- humidity.” —Melissa Go! , wearing veil of color vp, media relations, Macy’s and works for any Southeast Region skin tone.” —Sandra Martin, store manager

STATISTICS

According to Kline & Co., the devices market will reach almost $1 billion at The Lowdown on Devices retail this year, with exceptional growth of 25 percent annually over the next Sales of beauty machines are humming along nicely. fi ve years. “We knew this market was taking o! , but even we were shocked by its sheer size,” says Karen Dowkow, industry manager, consumer products. “Devices are fi nding a very receptive and growing audience of savvy consumers SALES OF DEVICES BY TECHNOLOGY TYPE looking to save time and money by avoiding regular trips to the doctor for in- Driven by Clarisonic, sonic technology o" ce procedures that were once commonplace in more robust economic times.” is the leading category.

3.7 % GROWTH OF AT-HOME SKIN CARE DEVICES MICRODERMABRASION In the U.S. by Skin Care Concern: 2010-2011 5.7 % MICROCURRENT ACNE +134%

CLEANSING HEAT-BASED +74% 22 % SONIC 37.9 % ANTIAGING +48%

LASER HAIR REMOVAL +42% LIGHT THERAPY ROSACEA +33% Source: Kline & Co. 30.7 % Source Kline & Co.

0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100% 120% 140% STANISLAV/SHUTTERSTOCK CHINSEE; SKIN: PEROV GEORGE BY PHOTOS PRODUCT

BB1109-PG24-CC-Whats Selling.a;9.indd 2 8/30/11 2:14 PM STRONGER LONGER INVINCIBLE HAIR 1 USE. 13X LONGER LIFE. PREVENTS BREAKAGE BY 96%.*

INTRODUCING

REPAIRING COLLECTION FOR ALL HAIR TYPES

*Independent instrumental studies versus control when used with Monoi Repairing Shampoo and Hair Mask.

Available at select Sephora, Macy’s, Dillard’s, Ricky’s and all Carol’s Daughter stores nationwide.

carolsdaughter.com Join us on Facebook Follow us on Twitter 26 WWD BEAUTY INC !onsumer !hroni!l"

MAC SOFTSAC MAC HAUTE & SMALL $25 NAUGHTY LASH “When I get new MASCARA $18 KIEHL’S OLIVE FRUITT makeup, I always want Featuring a “dual- OIL NOURISHING a new makeup bag wiper” system, this CONDITIONER $19 too,” says Volpe. “I like two-in-one mascara Designed for under- the MAC bags because can make lashes nourished hair, this they last forever.” either dramatically nutritive blend of KIEHL’SKIEH OLIVE FRUIT enhanced or avocado oil, lemon OILOI NOURISHING naturally defi ned. extract and olive $18 fruit oil was inspired This gentle MAC MINERALIZE by homemade hair contains molecules BLUSH IN WARM MAC LIPSTICK IN remedies. said to mimic natural SOUL $22 VIVA GLAM IV $14.50 oils found in healthy “I’ve bought this All proceeds from hair. “I am drawn to shade before,” says the sale of Viva Glam simple products that Volpe. “I like it benefi t the MAC do what they say they because it’s almost Aids Fund. will,” says Moore. a cross between a bronzer and a blush.” MAC PAINT POT IN PAINTERLY $16.50 “The MAC makeup artist told me to apply MAC POWERPOINT this taupe cream EYE PENCIL IN shadow as a base, STUBBORN then to contour with BROWN $14.50 Constructivist, a “I like how well MAC KIEHL’S OLIVE deeper brown shade,” liners blend,” says FRUIT OIL DEEPLY says Volpe. REPARATIVE Volpe. “This dark HAIR PAK $25 brown pencil is perfect “The salesperson for my eye color.” MAC PAINT POT IN KIEHL’S STYLIST said I should use this CONSTRUCTIVIST SERIES CREME WITH every week,” says $16.50 SILK GROOM $18 Moore about this “This is my fi rst time This treatment/styler MAC CREMESTICK strengthening hair trying cream eye hybrid, which features LINER IN BEURRE masque. color,” says Volpe. “I silk powders and $14.50 have avoided shadow conditioning wheat “This is the in the past because and soy proteins, can perfect pink/brown powder doesn’t last be applied to damp hue for a natural on my lids.” hair for a dose of looking lip,” says hydration. Volpe. $80* $141.50* Total Spent Total Spent The Mall at Short Hills SHORT HILLS, N.J. SHOPPER STALKER * Pre-tax totals What’s in Ritsuko’s Bag What’s in Ellyn’s Bag Ceramic artist Ritsuko Moore, 46, came Ellyn Volpe, a 49-year-old retail sales buyer, to Kiehl’s in search of products that would came to Bloomingdale’s MAC counter on a restore her hair’s moisture. “Especially in the balmy Thursday for advice on applying makeup. summertime, my hair gets dry,” she says. “I “Maybe it’s a midlife crisis, but I suddenly still haven’t found a [solution] that I swear wanted to learn how to do my eye makeup,” says by.” Moore, who lives in nearby Summit, says Volpe, who until now favored playing up her lips once she fi nds products that work, she will with berry-hued lipstick. “I had no idea where go to any length to keep them in stock. “I use to start.” Because of her 48-hour work weeks, some skin care that is only sold in Japan,” says Volpe rarely visits stores. “I have online accounts Moore. “I trade [American] products with my with MAC and Nordstrom and usually buy friends in Japan.” The mother of two decided products that way,” she says. At Bloomingdale’s, to shop at Kiehl’s today because a friend told she spent about 10 minutes with MAC beauty her the store’s knowledgeable salespeople associates, who demonstrated how to create would aid in her product search. Moore was Shopper: Ritsuko Moore, 46 a “natural smoky” eye with cream shadows in Shopper: Ellyn Volpe, 49 impressed with the service and how quickly she Date/Time: 6.17.2011, 3:30 p.m. complementary earth tones. “They explained Date/Time: 6.17.2011, 1:07 p.m. Store: Kiehl’s Store: Bloomingdale’s was matched with the appropriate products. every step, which made it easier to know what Location: The Mall at Short Hills, Location: The Mall at Short Hills, “The advisors were knowledgeable and focused Short Hills N.J. to buy,” says Volpe, whose go-to brands also Short Hills, N.J. on problem solving,” she says. “I’m confi dent include Elizabeth Arden and Chanel. In all, she that these products will do what they say.” Moore, an avid tennis player, says her was impressed with the experience. “They really listened and paid attention to what

beauty regime includes daily SPF, Lancôme skin care and once-a-week . worked for me,” she says. “I’m excited to try out the look on my own.” CHINSEE GEORGE BY PRODUCTS JOHN AQUINO; BY SHOPPER PHOTOS

BB1109-PG26-CC-ShopperStalker.a;11.indd 2 8/30/11 2:29 PM GLOBAL MARKETS » NEW YORK CITY SEPTEMBER 23 FORUM

The Estée Lauder Companies Tory Burch LLC U.S. Department of Commerce American Apparel Cedric Prouvé Lydia Park Forstmann Lawrence J. Brill & Footwear Association Group President, International Vice President, International Senior International Trade Specialist, Kevin M. Burke ON STRATEGIC GROWTH and Licensing Offi ce of Textiles and Apparel President & Chief Executive Offi cer ON BRAND EXPANSION ON TRADE POLICY ON TRADE POLICY

Azadea Group Wolverine World Wide Inc. Genesis Luxury Fashion Pvt. Ltd. Marvin Traub Associates Said G. Daher Michael F. McBreen Sanjay Kapoor Mortimer Singer Chief Executive Offi cer President, Global Operations Group Managing Director President ON MIDDLE EAST MARKETS ON GLOBAL READINESS ON THE INDIAN MARKET ON STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS

For information contact Marne Friedman at 212.630.4379 or [email protected] wwd.com/globalforum2011

SPONSORED BY: The America ISSUE 28 WWD BEAUTY INC The Anxiety Ga p

With the market fl uctuating wildly—and the consumer confi dence index along with it— the chasm between the haves and have-nots has never been so pronounced. BY JENNY B. FINE

THE FEMALE POPULATION IN he great recession of 2008 may be over, but for shoppers in America, it is by no THE U.S. means forgotten. The way we buy beauty products has changed fundamentally, and with the threat of The Census reports there are 157.2 a double dip looming, the transformation looks here to stay. million women in the U.S. Personal indulgence has given way to circumspection, splurging has been replaced by strategic savvi- The number of women is expected to grow Tness and the need-want balance is continually in fl ux. “The recession is over, but the behavior people have 9 percent by 2015. However, growth is not learned is not,” says Wendy Liebmann, chief executive offi cer and chief shopper of WSL Strategic Retail. even across age groups, resulting in major “Shoppers have accepted the new reality, and whether they are affl uent or lower income, they are deter- implications for beauty marketers. mined to be smarter about how they spend.” “When people fi rst implemented austerity measures, we all thought the pendulum would swing back AGE and we would go back to a time when spending was more conspicuous,” says Kat Fay, senior beauty care 18-24 15,139,000 +7.8% analyst at Mintel. “That just isn’t happening. People have decided they are going to implement austerity measures for a longer time. Price, sale and promotion are very much top of mind.” 25-34 21,965,000 +10.9% No wonder. Even before the American debt crisis of late July and the stomach-churning roller-coaster ride of the stock market during the dog days of August, most Americans were still pessimistic concerning 35-44 20,549,000 -6.3% the state of the economy. A study by SymphonyIRI shows that 70 percent of consumers expect the cost of +2.3% food is going to rise, 62 percent think utility prices will rise and 58 percent believe gas prices will rise. WSL’s 45-54 21,943,000 research, conducted in December 2010, shows that 65 percent of women believe the recession will last three or more years and that one out of two women think it will be one to three years before their personal 55-64 20,996,000 +30.9% fi nances improve. (Another 38 percent said they had no idea.) 65-74 14,410,000 +36.5% “Consumers are very conservative, because they feel like things are either going to stay the same or get worse,” says Susan Viamari, editor of Times and Trends for SymphonyIRI. 75+ 11,885,000 +4.4% That conservatism has led to a permanent shift in values that is very clearly being manifested in how, where, when and why people are shopping. First and foremost, shoppers are smarter about how they’re spending Source: Mintel/U.S. Census Bureau money. While there is good news for beauty marketers—Kline Group expects beauty to post a sales increase in the low-single digits this year, while NPD Group reports that prestige sales in the fi rst half of the year were

up 13 percent—women are still approaching the category with caution. “Nobody stopped buying shampoo or TYLER RESTY TAGS: SUKJAROENSUK/123RF; NUTTAKIT BY PHOTO SHOPPING BAG

CHARTS BY INFOGRAPHICS.COM

BB1109-PG28-WELL-Stats.a;30.indd 1 8/31/11 3:44 PM 70% expect the cost of food to rise.

61% expect the cost of utilities a p to rise. 65% of 57% expect shoppers the cost of 79% of 61% make shoppers say the gas to rise. shopping recession are lists to 50% of will last paying avoid over- shoppers say their 3+ years. more spending. personal will attention fi nances 38% of consumers take at to price expect their least 1-3 years . to improve. home value to deteriorate 59% are more 64% are Source: SymphonyIRI Group willing looking to try online products for the best that prices before cost less. going to stores.

THE SHOPPING Source: WSL Strategic Retail MINDSET Still pessimistic about the economy, most consumers are

SHOPPING BAG PHOTO BY NUTTAKIT SUKJAROENSUK/123RF; TAGS: TYLER RESTY TAGS: SUKJAROENSUK/123RF; NUTTAKIT BY PHOTO SHOPPING BAG exercising extreme caution when it comes to spending.

BBB1109-PG28-WELL-Stats.a;30.inddB1109-PG28-WELL-Stats.a;30.indd 2 88/31/11/31/11 33:44:44 PMPM TODAY’S BEAUTY CONSUMER toothpaste. They are just more practical,” says Carrie Mellage, director of consumer prod- ucts at Kline Group. “They don’t have 12 mascaras anymore. They are using products to the A look at the average annual spend last drop, and they expect products to perform. Our research shows that consumers don’t on beauty, by income and geography, want to see newness just for the sake of newness.” among women 18 and older. “We see a much more deliberate approach to shopping,” agrees Viamari. “Consumers are taking the time to study before they go into stores: 69 percent make a list before they go to a store and use a variety of tools to identify the best prices, including online, store SPENDING BY INCOME circulars and coupons.” When BeautyStat, the market research fi rm, queried its online community if they are Under $25,000 $144 $92 still buying the same products and brands, or whether they’ve traded up or down, 54 per- Overall average cent responded their spending has stayed the same, 33 percent have traded down and 13 $25,000 to $44,999 $116 percent have traded up. “Even though the economy is down, my skin still requires higher $45,000 to $74,999 $133 quality products,” says respondent Lisa P. “While I haven’t traded down, I look for the best deals. If Sephora has a coupon over Ulta, I’m there. My brand loyalty is still there, but not $75,000 or more $185 my store loyalty.” SymphonyIRI’s data shows that the drugstore channel has had a signifi cant uptick in share across a number of consumer segments, including beauty, which had gains of a half a share point or more. Grocery has gained as well, however supercenters and the club channel have decreased. “Gas prices are a good 30 percent higher than a year ago, so consumers are SPENDING BY REGION going to drugstores more, which tend to be closer, particularly for fi ll-in trips,” Viamari says. “In terms of beauty care, there’s also more promotional activity in the drug channel, and the retailers are working hard to protect and grow their share.” $136 Price consciousness has also led to an increase in private label product usage. While the Midwest $146 migration fi rst happened in the over-the-counter category as a result of recalls for popu- Northeast lar products like children’s Advil and Tylenol, it has spread to beauty. Kline reports sales of private label cosmetics and toiletries were up about 6 percent, versus total industry growth of 2 percent. Notes BeautyStat member Patricia S., “I’ve noticed that some generic brands work the same way and contain the same ingredients.” $140 At-home products are increasingly popular, too—no surprise, given that 48 percent $154 South West of consumers are going to a salon or less often, according to SymphonyIRI. Via- mari says that standout product performers currently include L’Oréal Paris Healthy Look hair color and Sally Hansen’s Complete Salon 5-step-in-one nail pol- Source: The NPD Group ish, and that the data is showing strong growth in antiaging skin care, but less in color cosmetics. “The beauty mass market is being bolstered by innovation,” she explains. “Consumers will spend up if you bring to market products that give more professional results. But in the color category, where we saw more aggressive promotional strategies to encourage folks to buy, the results were mixed.” ONLINE SHOPPING With consumers staying home more, online shopping hat being said, trust is a key component of convincing people to open their is gaining in popularity. wallets. “In 2007, we saw a group who were more adventurous and will- ing to take risks with brands that have limited awareness, such as niche brands,”T says Karen Grant, vice president and global beauty industry analyst at NPD. “They are less apt to do that today. People are looking for brands they trust and recognize. It is about the more meaningful purchase. While price is important, it is secondary.” + pts pts 4 The desire to fi nd a deeper meaning is also evident in how people spend their time. + 3 pts % Americans are spending more time at home with friends and family, and less out social- Gain in online + 39 shopping 4 37% pts izing and shopping. That has led to a direct rise in online sales, say the experts. NPD’s % + (’09-’11) 34% 34% 35 10 data shows 14 percent of women are shopping online, a 3 percent increase in the past 12 % months. “Online is being driven by ease, convenience and return policies that are a lot less 30% 31 prohibitive,” says Grant, noting that the top sites in terms of awareness are Avon, Bath & Body Works and Sephora; the top sites in terms of where people shop for beauty are Sephora, Amazon and Avon, and that Amazon, Sephora, Drugstore.com and Ulta rank % 21 highest in terms of online conversions. “What’s interesting is that none of the big retailers come up,” says Grant. “It’s the pure plays and Sephora. The Internet is an area where the bigger retailers have a real opportunity.” Grant notes that Wal-Mart is conspicuously absent from the list (although if you segre- gate out the 18- to 24-year-old age group, it does rank third in terms of awareness, behind ’09 ’11 ’09 ’11 ’09 ’11 ’09 ’11 Target and Avon), a fact that underscores the retailer’s current troubles. Although the FRAGRANCE MAKEUP SKIN CARE HAIR CARE majority of women across all income levels still buy their beauty products there, the re- tail behemoth has posted eight quarters of negative comp-store growth. In August, WSL

Source: WSL Strategic Retail MIKE FLIPPO/SHUTTERSTOCK CALCULATOR: BISMARCKPRIDE.COM; TARGET: URFIN/SHUTTERSTOCK; MOUSE: VALZAN/SHUTTERSTOCK; BY MONEY PHOTO

BBB1109-PG28-WELL-Stats.a;30.inddB1109-PG28-WELL-Stats.a;30.indd 3 88/31/11/31/11 33:44:44 PMPM SHOPPING FOR BEAUTY Which of the following changes have you made in the last six months when you’re buying beauty products? COLOR COSMETICS SKIN CARE 39% I actively look for sales and try to only buy products on sale. 38% Color 27% I have made mostly replacement purchases and avoided “splurge” products. 26% 27% I’ve made no real changes. 27% Skin Care Cosmetics 25% I’ve bought a lot more special o! er/promotional/discounted products. 23% 24% I’ve shopped around more to compare prices. 26% 21% I’ve switched to less expensive brands. 20%

Where have you purchased beauty COLOR products in the last six months? COLOR COSMETICS SKIN CARE COSMETICS SKIN CARE 57% Mass merchandiser like Wal-Mart or Target 57% 6% 6% 45% Drugstore like CVS or Walgreens 42% 6% Drugstore Web site 5% 23% Department store like Macy’s or Nordstrom 15% 4% 3% 18% Supermarket 17% 3% Victoriassecret.com 2% 16% Avon 14% 3% Ulta.com 2% 12% Sephora 5% 3% Supermarket Web site 2% 11% Ulta 6% 2% Beauty 360 1% 8% Victoria’s Secret 4% 2% Beauty360.com 1% 8% Mass merchandiser Web site 6% 2% Thebodyshop.com 1% 8% Department store Web site 4% 1% Beauty Control 1% 6% Sephora.com 4% 7% Other online retailer not listed above 10%

Source: Mintel Beauty Retailing Report, April 2011

THE SATISFACTION INDEX 70% Many shoppers who cut back during the recession 65% are ready to come back to beauty. 59% 56% 54% 54% % 52% 53

% 45 % 44 % % 41% 42 42 38% 39% SKIN CARE COSMETICS SALON SERVICES HAIR CARE

FRAGRANCES % 13% 13% 14 10% 11% SALON SERVICES FRAGRANCES COSMETICS SKIN CARE HAIR CARE SALON SERVICES FRAGRANCES COSMETICS SKIN CARE HAIR CARE SALON SERVICES FRAGRANCES COSMETICS SKIN CARE HAIR CARE

MONEY PHOTO BY VALZAN/SHUTTERSTOCK; MOUSE: URFIN/SHUTTERSTOCK; TARGET: BISMARCKPRIDE.COM; CALCULATOR: MIKE FLIPPO/SHUTTERSTOCK MIKE FLIPPO/SHUTTERSTOCK CALCULATOR: BISMARCKPRIDE.COM; TARGET: URFIN/SHUTTERSTOCK; MOUSE: VALZAN/SHUTTERSTOCK; BY MONEY PHOTO Cut back during the recession. Satisfi ed spending less. Not spending more yet, but want to. Already spending more. Source: WSL Strategic Retail

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published a report, “Where Did the Wal-Mart Shopper Go?” and the results were A recent Mendelsohn survey showed that when it comes to beauty, the Affl uents startling. “Wal-Mart has lost is credibility for everyday low prices,” Liebmann says. gravitate to brands including Nars and Fresh; the Wealthy to Laura Mercier, La “During the recession, everybody learned how to compete against price. And while Mer and La Prairie, and the Rich to Orlâne, La Mer, La Prairie and Jo Malone. there are still a lot of shoppers in the store, they don’t have as much money to spend, The experiential side of the purchasing equation is equally important. “Boy, do they are not shopping as often and they’re not buying everything at Wal-Mart.” you have to take care of them. The Affl uents won’t put up with any nonsense, espe- There is a group that does have a lot of money to spend, and seems to be shopping cially if you want them to pay full price,” says Liebmann. “You have to make sure the again, however: the affl uent. NPD data shows that the average spend on beauty for experience is of the highest quality to justify why they are shopping. That is a really those earning $75,000 and over is $185. That group is coming back and is more big moment—the recognition that you’re not going to get as many feet in the door, important than ever. “The value of the affl uent shopper can not be overstated,” says but the ones you are going to get are the ones who you really want.” Liebmann. “They are the people with money who are comfortable enough—de- Being on the cutting edge of technology is crucial with this group as well. “The spite the roller coaster of the stock market, gas prices and unemployment—to shop. more affl uent you are, the more digitally engaged you are,” says Scribner. “Getting They’re not blithely throwing away money, though. They, too, are making a list and technology right is crucial for the younger emerging consumer, who won’t take you checking it twice.” seriously unless you’re digital, and the richest customer, who is buying technology When it comes to defi ning rich, the recession has resulted in a new ceiling of as a sign of their sophistication and an enabler of their mobile and global lifestyle.” true affl uence, widening the divide between the haves and the have-nots. The era of Scribner also notes that the rich pride themselves on being early adopters and mass affl uence is gone. Whereas prior to 2008, marketers generally classifi ed those experts in myriad areas, a fact he says is underleveraged by marketers today. “The with household incomes of $75,000 and above as being affl uent, today the number rich love to share what they’ve learned and what they know,” he says. “They index has risen dramatically. When George Scribner, the senior vice president of people very high on questions like, ‘People often ask my advice about...,’ whether it’s about planning at Digitas, realized that the old classifi cations no longer produced reliable fashion, fi nance or health care. We’ve noticed this dynamic when interviewing pre- results, he tasked a team with redefi ning the affl uent and their lifestyle. In terms mium travelers. Because they fl y a lot, they feel like experts and insiders. So they of household income, Scribner found that statistically speaking, today a household want to be treated that way, not as passive passengers, but as fellow professionals,” income of $200,000 marks the beginning of true affl uence. His group identifi ed he continues. “There is something interesting in acknowledging the sophistication fi ve tiers of affl uence: The Aspiring, those age 35 and over, with household incomes and expertise of your consumer.” (HHI) of $100,000 to $199,00. (This is the group least likely to move into true af- At the opposite end of the spectrum lies the Hispanic population. The sheer fi g- fl uence.) The Emerging, those 35 and under with HHIs of $100,000 to $199,999. ures—the number of Hispanic Americans has grown 40 percent since 2000—and (This group is very likely to move into true affl uence as they get older.) The Affl uent, their propensity for beauty makes it a group impossible to ignore. However, it’s also those with HHIs of $200,000 to $499,000; The Wealthy, with HHIs of $500,000 a community that has been adversely impacted by the recession. “The Hispanic to $999,000, and The Rich, with HHIs of $1 million or more. spending dollar is tremendous, but with larger families and overall lower household According to Steve Kraus, vice president and chief research and insights offi cer income, they’ve been hit hard by the increase in housing prices,” says Fay. “But His- of Ipsos Mendelsohn, the research fi rm upon whose data Digitas created its new panics and do tend to over-index on apparel and beauty. They don’t neces- classifi cation, about 20 percent of the population (44 million people) in the U.S. sarily spend more dollars than other people, but they are probably spending more has a household income of $100,000 or more, but they represent 60 percent of the of their income.” income and 70 percent of the net worth. Rich or poor, one thing is clear: Consumers will continue to shell out for beauty One of Digitas’ major fi ndings was that marketing is no longer a numbers game. products—as long as retailers and marketers meet shoppers on their terms. “Ameri- “We can’t think about scale any longer simply by head count,” says Scribner. “We cans are great at blurring the line between need and want,” says Fay. “As long as they

need to think about scale according to where the assets exist, and they exist among don’t feel like they’re being taken advantage of, women will continue to buy the JOHAN SWANEPOEL/SHUTTERSTOCK BY PHOTO CHAMPAGNE the 8.5 million people who represent the top three tiers of affl uence, not the 30 mil- products that make them look and feel good.” Q lion people who belong to the aspiring or middle class.” Scribner had another “aha!” moment when he analyzed the geographic break- down, which showed that the south has the largest population of affl uence, driven by Florida and Texas but with Virginia also playing a strong role. According to re- cent census data, Scribner says, the state’s Fairfax, Loudoun and Falls Church coun- AFFLUENCE BY REGION: WHERE THE MONEY IS ties have the highest median incomes in America. The south has the largest concentration of a! uence, driven by Florida and Texas. Virginia also plays a key role, where three counties—Fairfax, Loudoun and Falls Church—have the highest median incomes in the U.S. herever they reside, the affl uent are likely feeling “frugal fa- tigue,” says Kraus, noting that this factor is most likely behind the increase in luxury goods and prestige beauty sales. “We see a direct correlation between the Dow and the luxury mar- % kets,” he says, noting that the Dow Jones Industrial Average 20 % Midwest 22 Whas risen 40 percent since the so-called end of the recession, when it hovered in the Northeast 7,000 or 8,000 range. “Even with the recent slide, it’s up 35 percent,” Kraus says, “so if you have $1 million invested in the market, that’s an extra $350,000.” While the affl uent are willing to spend—witness the double-digit growth year to date in prestige beauty sales—the way they are shopping has changed consider- % % 32 ably. “People do feel a little more free with their money, but they want something 26 South that speaks to value. In the stock market, people are looking for safe, blue chip West stocks,” Kraus says, “and the same thing is happening with spending. When people are treating themselves, they want something that is of very high quality.” Source: Digitas/Ad Age Insights

BBB1109-PG28-WELL-Stats.a;30.inddB1109-PG28-WELL-Stats.a;30.indd 5 88/31/11/31/11 33:45:45 PM SPOTLIGHT ON THE AFFLUENTS

About 20 percent of Americans have a household income of $100,000-plus, representing 70 percent of total U.S. consumer wealth. Despite the recession, the number of affl uent households has increased from 50 million in 2007 to 58 million in 2010. Happily for marketers, many are shopping again. While women across all income levels have come back to beauty, those with higher household incomes are signifi cantly outspending everyone else.

ANNUAL INCOME OVER $100,000 SPENDING PATTERNS SHOPPING PATTERNS

HOUSEHOLD INCOME % Compared to 2008, those with a household income of $45k to $74k had a decline in beauty Affl uents spend 3.2 $1 million or more 1% Rich spending, while households with $75k plus had $500,000-999,999 1.6% Wealthy an increase in spending for the same period, times more when widening the gap between the two. they buy—across all $200,000-499,999 16.7% A! uent categories.

$200 $179 $186 Source: Ipsos Mendelsohn $100,000-199,999 Aspiring/ $150 $137 $42 $134 $52 “Twice as many 80.7% Emerging affl uent shoppers (household $100 income $100K+) are now ‘buying more than they + + $50 used to’ compared to less 12.4% 68.3% affl uent shoppers— Emerging Aspiring $0 $45,000-$74,999 $75,000 $45,000-$74,999 $75,000 13% vs. 7%.” (Under 35 y.o) (35 y.o and Up) 2008 2010 Source: Digitas/ Ad Age Insights Source: The NPD Group Source: WSL Strategic Retail

Where have you bought beauty in the last six months?

$100K-$149K Color Cosmetics $150K+ $100K-$149K Skin Care $150K+ 54% Mass merchandiser like Wal-Mart or Target 37% 53% Mass merchandiser like Wal-Mart or Target 40% 52% Drugstore like CVS or Walgreens 42% 44% DrugstoreDrugstore like CVS like CVSor Walgreens or Walgreens (instore) 36% 34% Department store like Macy’s or Nordstrom 27% 22% Supermarket 11% 19% Supermarket 18% Department store like Macy’s or Nordstrom CHAMPAGNE PHOTO BY JOHAN SWANEPOEL/SHUTTERSTOCK BY PHOTO CHAMPAGNE 26% Department store like Macy’s or Nordstrom 21% 7% Avon 15% 9% Avon 17% 16% Sephora 17% 5% Mass merchandiser Web site 6% 14% Ulta 15% 4% Mary Kay 2% 8% Mass merchandiser Web site 5% 11% Ulta 9% 11% Department store Web site 8% 6% Drugstore Web site 9% 7% Victoria’s Secret 5% 8% Sephora 9% 5% Drugstore Web site 10% 6% Department store Web site 9% 4% Mary Kay 5% 6% Sephora.com 11% 5% Sephora.com 10% 5% Victoria’sVictorias SecretSecret 0% 5% The Body Shop 3% 3% The Body Shop 4% 2% Supermarket Web site 7% 4% Supermarket Web site 2% 6% Ulta.com 2% 4% Ulta.com 2% 4% Victoriassecret.com 2% 4% Victoriassecret.com 2% 2% Beauty 360 3% 2% Beauty 360 2% 4% Beauty360.com 0% 1% Beauty Control 0% 2% Thebodyshop.com 3% 2% Beauty360.com 0% 0% Beauty Control 0% 4% Thebodyshop.com 2% 9% Other online retailer not listed above 12% 14% Other online retailer not listed above 21% Source: Mintel Beauty Retailing Report, April,2011

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TO get their hands on the latest nail polish from Chanel, customers have sent Christine Dagousset desperate letters and e-mails pleading with her to fi nd it in her heart to set aside a bottle. But sometimes even the executive vice president of fragrance and beauté at Chanel struggles to uncover one. That was the case last year when the grayish putty Particulière and the gray purple Paradoxal launched and immediately sold out. And when the Les Khakis de Chanel debuted at Fashion’s Night Out last September, the fl ood of people trying to buy it crashed Chanel’s Web site. Chanel has led the wave of nail category hits before: In 1994, Vamp reaped a reported $1 million in fi rst-year sales. A short while later, the launches of and further whipped consumers into a nail frenzy. History is repeating itself, with nails fi rmly back in the beauty spotlight. In the mass market for the year ending July 10, excluding Wal-Mart, SymphonyIRI estimates U.S. sales in the nail category rose 12.3 percent to nearly $828 million. Last year, Kline & Co.’s fi gures show nail polish was the fastest-growing category in the cosmetics and toiletries sector, with more than 20 percent growth in both the prestige and mass markets. Meanwhile, the NPD Group reports that the nail category shot up 58 percent in the prestige market to $10 million for January through June of this year. Going forward, Kline predicts nail polish will grow at an average annual rate of 5 percent through 2015. “This is the strongest growth we have seen historically,” says Karen Grant, vice president and global beauty industry analyst at NPD. At Duane Reade, the nail category has experienced “tremendous double-digit growth,” says Marcia Gaynor, general merchandise manager of beauty. “It is one HAND of those categories I can count on,” she says. What’s behind the surge? The recession clearly played a part. Nail re-emerged

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHNNY BUENAVENTURA NAILS BY LISA LOGAN

Model: Ashly Covington/Parts Models NYC Photo assistant: Matthew Ellis

BB1109-PG34-WELL-Nails.a;20.indd 2 8/31/11 5:38 PM D POWER As nail companies up the ante on cool new colors and e! ects, consumers have responded in kind, making the category one of beauty’s hottest sellers. BY RACHEL BROWN

BB1109-PG34-WELL-Nails.a;20.indd 3 8/31/11 5:38 PM 36 WWD BEAUTY INC

around 2008, right as the recession took root. Deborah Lippmann, founder of her “Women have gotten much less conventional about their nails. A few years ago, namesake nail polish brand, posits, “People couldn’t get their Louboutins or a new you only had pink and red and that was what it was about,” agrees Dagousset. Marc Jacobs bag every six months. Nail color became a very viable accessory.” “Women have really understood nail as a way to differentiate themselves. You have Of course, beauty products as a whole are more accessible than luxury accesso- very classic women willing to be much more bold in their nail color.” ries. But even within the beauty universe, nail polishes are among the most afford- Chanel has been a key driver of color. Under Peter Philips, the global creative able items. Costing $25, Chanel’s polishes are $7 cheaper than its lipsticks. Sally director for makeup, the brand has had hit after hit, ranging from Jade, which ush- Hansen’s lacquers are priced as low as $3. ered in the green craze, to Particulière, which powered the greige wave. For women forced to cut back on salon visits, nail brands were ready and willing “Peter Philips and Chanel are a humungous infl uence because they are launch- to give them the colors and products to replicate a salon manicure at home. Profes- ing a lot more, and they can’t do anything wrong in terms of nail,” says Lippmann. sional brands like OPI, Nicole by OPI and Essie started to sell in retail outlets, while Grant notes that Chanel’s credibility gives customers the confi dence to try colors retail brands, particularly Sally Hansen, injected salon services into its launches, as they might otherwise shy away from, and that customers who can’t afford Chanel with Complete Salon Manicure, designed to squeeze fi ve steps of a manicure into buy similar colors at mass. one bottle, and Salon Effects nail polish strips. In terms of current trends, Chanel is marketing metallics for fall. Philips has “Women don’t stop going to the salon, but we have gone from conspicuous con- created a trio of metallic shades: a green gold called Peridot, a silver beige called sumption to conscientious consumption,” says Bill Boraczek, global vice president Quartz and a silver called Graphite. Deborah Lippmann is building on its strength of Sally Hansen. “You might decide to not go to the salon every weekend, but every in glitter polishes, with two new variations of its bestselling Happy Birthday. Essie other weekend. Doing manicures at home is a way that people can save and still has LuxEffects, launching in December, formulated to maximize texture and shine express themselves with color.” with four to fi ve different size fl akes or pearl shapes. Brands are also touting their David Greenberg, president of Maybelline New York--Essie, points out darker winter colors. Between CND and OPI, deep sapphire, purple and ruby tones that 91 percent of women who wear nail color do their nails at home, while 56 per- are being presented. At Sally Hansen, Boraczek sees the purple spectrum expand- cent also go to salons. “The category is all about having the right shade at the right ing, although he says greige will remain a strong counterpoint. time,” he says. “Women want the on-trend fashionable shades that they’re reading Sephora’s senior vice president of marketing, Sharon Rothstein, pegged ruby red, about in magazines or seeing on television—right now.” and gray as hot for fall. Recalling Leonard Lauder’s famous aphorism about lipstick being recession Cheri Botiz, Nordstrom’s national beauty and fragrance director, agrees. “For proof, Boraczek has come up with the “nail polish index.” Citing SymphonyIRI fall, we are going back to the deeper shades. The textures I’m noticing are big, and data, he notes that in 2008, the mass color cosmetics category was up 1 percent, there’s the metallics and matte. The metallic element is big.” while nail color was up 6 percent. In 2009, mass color was up 4 percent, nail 15 Nail art has added another dimension. “Nail art is edgy, but acceptable,” says Suzi percent. In 2010, mass color was up 7 percent, nail 22 percent. As a punctuation Weiss-Fischmann, executive vice president and artistic director of OPI Products mark, Boraczek adds that the Sally Hansen Complete Salon Manicure launch last Inc. “It looks a little bit out there, but in a subtle way.” year was the number-one launch for the entire mass color cosmetics category. “That The Web, with its capacity to teach women via video tutorials, has become an has never happened before,” he says. invaluable resource in spreading nail art by enabling women to learn how to cus- During a recession, Boraczek argues that women gravitate to color to pry them- tomize their nails. For those who wish to learn how to do newspaper nail art, for selves out of the doldrums. In 2008, he says there were three blue shades in the example, a step-by-step video uploaded by YouTuber Cute Polish will teach you. top-100 mass market shades. In the last two years, there have been seven. In 2008, Already, it has more than one million views. Nails inspired by ’s “Poker there was one green in the top 100. In the last two years, fi ve. In 2008, there were Face” have garnered Julieg713 more than 2.5 million views on YouTube. no in the top 100. In the last two years, there were two. “It has been a color To convince novices to experiment with nail art, brands are launching easy-to-

explosion,” says Boraczek. use products that add texture, such as polishes that form cracked patterns. Weiss- KUNIYOSHI TOKIO BY PHOTO FUKUDA

The IT List From New York to L.A, the country’s hottest nail artists.

AYA FUKUDA LISA LOGAN KIMMIE KYEES ELLE GERSTEIN Born in Japan, Fukuda When Beyoncé When Kyees arrives Jennifer Lopez’s go-to moved to New York fl ashes eye-catching with a kit full of cra! manicurist, Gerstein’s in 2008 and cemented metallic fi ngertips, it’s store goodies and M.O. is to pick up on herself in nail lore a good bet that Logan edgy manicure ideas, trends such as Minx with out-there designs for Lady is responsible. The New York–based she’s got a client list chock full of and lace manicures long before they Gaga. She uses crystals and fabric manicurist was early to ride the Minx pop stars who are totally game. She spread to the masses. “My trademark extensively, but it’s her spike-and- wave and has been behind some of the covered Lady Gaga’s nails with metal is that I never use fl at polish,” says chain look for Lady Gaga that’s wildest talon designs—from zippers mesh on the“” video; Gerstein, a Long Island native who this received the most attention. to pictures of people to geographic she painted tiny Russell Brands on year became celebrity manicurist for [email protected] stunners—that have hit the red ’s fi ngertips at the MTV Essie and Red Carpet Manicure a! er carpet and graced magazine spreads. Video Music Awards, and she wrapped four years with Barielle. [email protected] and pierced Rihanna’s black and silver [email protected] nails for the “Umbrella” video. [email protected]

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Fischmann says OPI has sold 6 million bottles of Shatter and is updating it with estimates that Shellac could double or even triple CND’s business. glitters. Nail decals have also expanded nail art’s appeal. Minx took the trend to sa- Other brands have quickly entered the market. OPI has GelColor; Orly, GelFX. lons, Sephora by OPI broadened it to specialty stores and Sally Hansen broadened In a Nails Magazine survey of salons, 64 percent said they added some form of it to mass with Salon Effects. Butter London is bringing it to department stores for soak-off gel or Shellac service last year. “This category has the potential in a few years holiday with the launch of Nail Skins. Magnets that create designs in polish are the of being the same size as the rest of the business at the salon level,” says Arnold. next evolution, with the likes of OPI and China Glaze coming out with their own Retail brands are getting into the game now, too. Founded by former Coty execu- magnetic polish creations. tives Bruce Kowalsky and Barry Shields, Red Carpet Manicure is headed to Ulta with Sephora has jumped on nail art by establishing in-store nail art studios in part- a system priced at $57.94 that features a portable LED light, base coat, gel polish, nership with XpresSpa in eight locations so far. The London-based manicurist So- top coat and adhesion sanitizer to allow customers to do 20 at-home gel polish ap- phy Robson has designed nail art looks with names like Distressed Metal and Punk plications. Nutra Nail is launching an $11.99 UV-free option called Gel Perfect into Cheetah that are applied at the studios; videos teach customers how to do nail art Ulta, Rite Aid, CVS, Walgreens, ShopRite, Fred Meyer and more. Gel Perfect uses an designs at home. Rothstein says the studios cater to customers’ blossoming passion activator that reacts with nail color to cure it and make it dry in fi ve minutes. “We are for nail art and “the consumer desire to see Sephora as more than just a conveyor of looking for it to be the biggest launch the company has ever had,” says Dunnan Edell, products, but as an experience.” chief executive offi cer of Nutra Nail owner CCA Industries. Other retailers are tiptoeing into nail art as well. ’Tini Beauty founder Mi- Duane Reade’s Gaynor says the potential is huge. “More and more people are chelle Toma Olson says the company is outfi tting its beauty consultants at Duane going to get into the kits, with the light or without,” she says, adding, “I’d like a two- Reade’s Look boutiques with tools to create lines and dots on nails. “It is a fun week manicure that doesn’t chip.” in-store treat,” she says. Even with a steady stream of innovation, can the nail category sustain the incred- ible growth it has had? Unlikely, says Grant. That doesn’t mean, she adds, that the category’s growth will end. Instead, she foresees growth in the upcoming years, albeit at a slower rate. She believes the category may eventually become like , which elebrity nail collaborations are starting to proliferate as quickly as has gone from sales of $20 million in 1997 to sales of $183 million at prestige last year. celebrity fragrances. Take Katy Perry’s OPI collection: The pink Still, execs remain bullish. Notes Greenburg, “When you think about the fact that glitter Teenage Dream has sold 3 million bottles since its launch in only 56 percent of women use nail polish today, you can see there is still a lot of January. “Before, it used to be enough to have the hero in the bottle,” room for category growth.” Q says Weiss-Fischmann. “Now the customer wants to make sure that Cthe brand performs, but she also wants to be excited.” As celebrities’ nails have come to the forefront, so have the people who do nails professionally. Tom Bachik can attest to that. Last year, he was named Chanel’s The Tipping Point: What to Know About Nails fi rst celebrity manicurist. Chanel has long had celebrity makeup artists, but never Hot, Hot, Hot!: Kline & Co. reports nail polish is the fastest growing category a manicurist counterpart. “It is a great way to get the nail color on the right hands in the cosmetics and toiletries sector, with more than 20 percent growth. and on the right shoots,” says Dagousset. D-I-Y: Products that replicate salon services are eagerly welcomed, as women Innovation in the nail sector often starts in salons. The hottest new trend is gel continue to cut back on salon visits and d-i-y instead. services, manicures that can last for two weeks or more, ushered in by CND’s Shel- Bright Ideas: Color is back. Bold shades like blue, and green that barely lac. Although gels have been around for a long time, they had many problems, from registered in 2008 are bestsellers today. onerous application to problematic removal. After more than fi ve years in develop- Special E! ects: From crackle to magnetic polish, technological innovations

FUKUDA PHOTO BY TOKIO KUNIYOSHI TOKIO BY PHOTO FUKUDA ment, CND’s Shellac delivered a solution. “It goes on just like a polish,” says Jan that deliver a di! erent fi nish are a key driver. Arnold, the brand’s co-founder and style director, explaining Shellac is brushed on Hard Facts: Long-lasting gel manicures, all the rage in salons, look set to and cured with a UV lamp to harden it. Removal takes about 10 minutes. Arnold be the next big growth category in the retail market.

SOPHY ROBSON JENNA HIPP PATTYCAKE$ Drawing upon music, Hipp, known as a A newbie on L.A.’s nail street art and fashion green manicurist for art scene, Pattricia as inspiration, London- avoiding harmful Garcia, aka PattyCake$, based Robson has ingredients in nail o! en turns to artists developed a reputation for innovative, products, has the ingénue market KLEUR Nita Darling, Nikko Gray and such as Andy Warhol and Shepard bold nail looks that have a fi nger on cornered with Michelle Williams, Rachel Jaeme Estera make up Kleur, a traveling Fairey for inspiration. But her crowning the pulse of the popular zeitgeist (the McAdams, Kate Bosworth and Jennifer nail art collective named for the Dutch achievement so far came from a very logo-covered nails copied everywhere Lawrence among those who she’s word for color. They have a standing pop culture idea: translating Bill Cosby were hers). “I take the ghetto ideas and worked with editorially. While other weekly gig at Urban Outfi tters’ Space 15 sweaters into multicolor nail designs. make them mainstream,” says Robson, manicurists are recognized for loud nail Twenty store in Hollywood, and they’re She showed them to the rapper Rye Rye who recently opened a salon in the art, Hipp’s approach is generally more o! en booked for four other events a over Facebook, who was so enamored Chelsea neighborhood of London and understated; she’s collaborated with week. When not at events, Kleur takes with them she asked Garcia to do her was tapped by Sephora to curate its RGB Cosmetics on Hipp x RGB Nail appointments through Freak City, nails for an appearance on “The Tonight Sephora by OPI nail art. Foundation with nude colors to match also in Hollywood, but the group’s Show with Jay Leno.” [email protected] very fair to dark skin tones. eventual goal is to have its own gallery [email protected] [email protected] and nail art salon. [email protected]

BB1109-PG34-WELL-Nails.a;20.indd 5 8/31/11 5:39 PM The Simple Life Fragrance executive Catherine Walsh fi nds mea

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isitors to Catherine Walsh’s New York City apartment would be forgiven for asking, “Do you have any place to sit?” finds meaning deep in the heart of Texas. When it comes to the fragrance Vexecutive’s aesthetic, nothing is everything. “I am an orthodox minimalist,” declares Walsh. Her zeal for minimalism led her to take what she refers to as the ultimate art pilgrimage: a trip to the Chinati Foundation, the sprawling compound of 40 buildings in Marfa, Texas, amassed by artist Donald Judd. The remote location, which houses much of Judd’s work as well as other artists’ such as Dan Flavin, occupies 340 acres of land in west Texas. For Walsh, that fi rst visit 10 years ago has now become a thrice-a-year journey and a seat on the board of the Foundation. “I have this insatiable taste for buildings and art, even though it has never been part of my vocation,” says Walsh, who is senior vice president of American Fragrances at Coty Prestige. “I love to see the way they play off one another. Chinati is the Holy Grail of both those things.” One of Walsh’s favorite spaces occupies two converted artillery sheds that house 100 aluminum works by Judd. “I have such great respect for Judd’s very detailed vision and his ability to carry it out. I’m a disciple of Judd’s in that way,” she says. Today, Walsh is one of 15 board members who meet quarterly in various cities. Her role, she says, is to help realize the ambitions of the museum’s director, Thomas Kellein. “Many of the buildings in Marfa owned by Judd remain vacant,” she says. “But Judd had a vision for what he wanted all those buildings to be fi lled with. The director would like to see that vision come to life.” Walsh, who studied art while attending graduate school at Ithaca College, fi nds solace in simplicity. “I have a specifi c taste for things and it’s very edited. That’s why I long for these types of environments, where it’s incredibly peaceful and there’s an unthinkable lack of distraction. You’re there and you can really focus.” It’s in the quiet moments that Walsh fi nds her best ideas to translate celebrities’ and designers’ fragrance concepts into commercial successes. “In my vocation everything is three dimensional, which is why I gravitate toward sculpture,” she says. “It’s not that I look at Judd’s work or Flavin’s work and say, ‘Let’s do a bottle like that.’ It’s not literal,” she clarifi es. “It just provides me a peacefulness and a focus where I’m able to think.” She muses for a moment before adding, “It’s this luxury of having space and quiet—I don’t get BY MOLLY PRIOR a whole lot of that in my life, so it totally relates to PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAN BORRIS something I would like to have a lot more of.” Q

BB1109-PG38(39)-WELL-Marfa.a;10.indd 3 8/30/11 2:43 PM Messenger On a recent July C e n t e r a! ernoon, Emily Today’s most forward-looking beauty editors are expanding their infl uence far beyond the pages of their publications. BY JENNY B. FINE Dougherty sat at a polished white table in the 17th fl oor corner o" ce of nail polish magnate Essie Weingarten. ¶ As the sun streamed in through the windows, Dougherty and Weingarten talked color. ¶ “I love the idea of neon red,” Dougherty said, pulling out a poster board sprayed with various shades of bright red, “but it tends to skew pink and I’m not as happy with it as I thought.”

“I don’t know if a spa customer will like neon,” mused Weingarten. “What becomes a lot more direct.” For Allure, that means playing a much more explicit about a new spin on blue? I’m so in love with blues. Blues and have been role in recommending specifi c products, a position the magazine is capitalizing so good for us.” on with the launch of its Beauty Product Finder on allure.com. The magazine is Weingarten started mixing colors in an empty bottle, carefully adding two partnering with Beautybar.com and Soap.com, to enable users to click-to-buy on shiny silver balls before giving it a shake to mix it. recommended products, provided the item is available on the partner sites. Wells Dougherty took a box of pastels in varying shades of out of her canvas says currently about 30 percent of the products that are reviewed on the tool are tote. “I personally like less chalky shades,” she said, assessing Weingarten’s fi rst available on the e-commerce sites. offer, before pausing: “Will blue make your hands look even redder? Because so “This is a really different world and a natural progression,” says Wells. “One day many people get red and puffy hands at the beach.” not too far from now, [readers] will be able to tap on a story in the magazine on Dougherty’s concerns were valid. Although she’s the beauty director of Elle the iPad [and buy a product.]” For now, they’ll have to content themselves with magazine, she wasn’t here today to choose products for the pages of her publi- the Allure Sephora palette, a $34 limited edition interchangeable makeup palette cation. Rather, Dougherty was working with Weingarten on creating exclusive that the editor and her team designed for the retailer. shades to be sold at the Elle Spa at the Eden Roc Hotel in Miami. Whether it’s a magazine-branded makeup palette or a luxe spa or even sheets The spa, which opened in June, is just one example of how magazines in gen- and duvet covers (Teen Vogue recently launched an eponymous bedding line), eral and many beauty editors specifi cally are expanding their sphere of infl uence, more and more magazines are expanding beyond the printed word. “We didn’t offl ine and online, and signifi cantly altering the relationship they have with read- used to think of magazines as brands,” says Aileen Gallagher, assistant professor ers. Today, the most forward-thinking editors are tweeting, blogging and post- in the magazine department at Syracuse University’s Newhouse School of Pub- ing pictures both personal and professional. They’re on TV, commentating on lic Communications. “We thought of them as publications. They’ve always had a the latest celebrity look or skin care trend. They’re online, hosting how-to videos strong identity, but now they can put their thumbprint on all sorts of things that demonstrating the latest hair or makeup look. They’re in the halls of major beauty aren’t the magazine.” brands, giving feedback on launches. Of course, they’re producing magazine pag- Take the Elle Spa, an experience Dougherty says was designed to bring the es, too, but for editors today, the point isn’t a month-to-month communication magazine alive for all fi ve senses. “From the moment you enter till the moment with readers. It’s minute by minute. you leave, we want it to be a deep dive into our pages,” she says. To that “The role of the beauty magazine has changed,” says Linda Wells, Photographed by end, Elle’s music editor created the spa’s sound track, its fashion editor the editor in chief of Allure, who started the magazine 20 years ago. HENRY curated the clothing selection in the boutique. And Dougherty herself “With all of the new devices and iterations of the magazine, with the LEUTWYLER oversaw the treatments. “We have a column called Doctor’s Orders,” brand on the Web and on the iPad and mobile devices, [our] role she says as an example, “a single page on what really works to fi x skin

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BB1109-PG40-WELL-Editors.a;16.indd 3 8/31/11 12:28 PM EMILY DOUGHERTY: BRINGING THE MAGAZINE TO LIFE For the Elle Spa, Dougherty is Conversation Starters continually dreaming up new ways to make her pages come alive. “I’m BEAUTY EDITORS ARE AFLUTTER OVER TWITTER. passionate about fragrance, so at the Spa, we give you our article on scent LOOK FOR THESE BUZZ-BUILDING PLATFORMS TO that won a Fifi ,” she says. “The goal is EMERGE IN THE FUTURE. for the spa to be another touchpoint. From the moment you enter till the moment you leave, we want it to be INSTAGRAM indulgent and educational and a dive into the pages.” Designed for use on Apple devices, this free photo-sharing app allows users to post images that have been edited with an assortment of e! ects, including being resized into a square shape (a nod to Kodak Instamatic and Polaroid cameras).

SPOTIFY This Swedish music-sharing platform allows users to listen to problems. So with acne for example, we interviewed top dermatologists about the streaming tunes. Free and paid accounts are o! ered, with extra ingredients that work, then created a protocol based on those ingredients. perks and amenities given to paying members, including the Then, when the client is leaving the spa, she gets a copy of the story. The goal is omission of online ads. for the spa to be another touch point.” “The wishword is ‘immediate,’” says Roberta Myers, Elle’s editor in chief. “The HOWCAST more mediums that allow us to do that, the better, particularly with beauty, which This YouTube-like site o! ers how-to videos on a huge variety is so universal.” of topics—from “How to Solve a Rubik’s Cube” to “How “Multiple platforms give us more space, they allow us to go deeper into a sub- to Hide a Hangover with Beauty Tricks”—and bills itself as the ject and to talk to our readers 24 hours a day,” adds Dougherty. “Our goal is to number-one mobile app for instructional content. have Elle beauty wherever she needs it and whenever she needs it.” In today’s environment, few mediums are as immediate as Twitter, which has YFROG brought the reader closer than ever to the once-rarefi ed world of editors. “Our au- Made famous by the Anthony Weiner scandal, this image- dience wants to know who we are,” says Eva Chen, beauty director of Teen Vogue, hosting site facilitates photo and video sharing via MySpace, who had 17,626 Twitter followers as of press time. Although that’s nowhere near Twitter and Facebook (simultaneously, if desired). A live feed, the 9 million-plus followers a celebrity like Kim Kardashian commands, it’s an searchable by a number of fi lters, displays user activity and impressive number for an editor. gives users the ability to link to others’ content. “Editors are no longer like the Wizard of Oz behind the curtain. This is the post-Devil Wears Prada, post-Project Runway audience,” says Chen. “I used to GPLUS write letters to the editor. Today, readers want to be able to reach out and get an GPlus is Google’s recently launched online members-only answer immediately.” community designed to go head-to-head against Facebook. Chen, whose Twitter handle is evachen212, tweets multiple times a day, touching on the personal and professional. On August 21, for example, she tweeted 41 times, QAIKU on topics ranging from recommending her favorite red lipstick to a reader (Dior) to Qaiku is a free comment-streaming site, similar to Twitter, anxiously awaiting the fi nale of The Project to posting a picture on Instagram but with a multi-language focus. Within the site, users of a chic Céline wallet she covets. “I love Twitter,” says Chen. “At fi rst, I can access topic-specifi c channels, post content—either dreaded joining because I am quite private, and I was worried about publicly or privately to friends—and search in a that, but I realized there is a way to make people feel like they know multitude of languages. me without giving too much away.” Chen uses Twitter to give her followers the illusion of being in- siders. For example, at a launch event for Bottega Veneta’s new fragrance, Chen was forbidden by an embargo to tweet pictures of the actual bottle. Instead, she tweeted pictures of the event’s lo- cale, which took place in an apartment made famous by the Sex and the City movie. “My readers care about that just as much,” she says. “The things they care about most are the things that make them feel like they’re inside the event with you.” For editors of celebrity magazines, that urgency is even more incumbent. Now that readers can speak to celebrities directly via Twitter, editors are using the medium to both establish their bona fi des and bur- KIKA ROCHA: nish their brand positioning. “There’s no WORKING THE RED CARPET— AND BEYOND longer six degrees of separation,” laughs Rocha’s red carpet commentary Gwen Flamberg, beauty director of Us has made her a star in print, Weekly. “Readers can see exactly what online and on television. “Being the celebrity is doing, and they can inter- in di! erent mediums is like act with them. I have to tweet and draw staying ahead of trends. If you don’t do it, you get le" behind.” my followers attention to what celebrities

are doing in the minute. Real time meant ALEXANDER TAMARGO BY PHOTO ELLE SPA

BB1109-PG40-WELL-Editors.a;16.indd 4 8/31/11 12:28 PM WWD BEAUTY INC 43

“The wishword today is ‘immediate.’ The more mediums that allow us to do that, the better, particularly with beauty,

which is so universal.” —Roberta Myers

something different a few years ago. Today, in this world of instant gratifi cation, we have to bring the brand to life 24 hours a day, minute to minute.” Kika Rocha, beauty and fashion director of People En Español, uses Twitter to gauge the interest of her readers on various topics, be it a hair style or a celeb. GWEN FLAMBERG: “For me, it’s a great way to test what they want to see in the magazine, what their VIDEO VIRTUOSO A! er clocking the popularity concerns are, their beauty problems, their questions,” she says. Rocha’s question/ of Lauren Luke’s how-to answer advice tweets have found such a strong audience that in August, the mag- makeup videos, Flamberg azine’s Web site, peopleenespanol.com, launched Los Tips de Kika on its home decided to create her own page, highlighting a question of the day. Just two weeks into the launch, Rocha’s how-to series based on Twitter followers increased 16 percent to 15,373, while her infl uence, or amplifi - celebrity looks, a project which has extended into cation, in the social media space increased 32 percent, according to Klout, which a daily blog called Beauty measures infl uence online. Says Rocha, “It’s great, never-ending conversation.” Trendwatch, in which As dreamy as that is for an editor, unexpurgated contact with readers can also Flamberg gives step-by-step be a double-edged sword. “There is a lot more pressure on the editor,” says Gal- (and product-by-product) lagher. “They used to be able to put what they wanted on a page or in a story, and instructions on how to achieve a certain look. even if everyone hated it or the hair dye didn’t work, they would never really hear about it. Now if they make a bad call, they hear about it, from hundreds of people. Readers police the writers more than they ever did,” she continues, “and it raises the game for everybody.” There’s also the danger of losing focus. The magazine has to remain the raison d’etre of the entire enterprise, warns Samir Husni, director of the magazine inno- vation center at the University of Mississippi, AKA Mr. Magazine. “Even though we’re bombarded with information, we’re less informed than ever before,” he pos- its. “Tweeting and blogging are the appetizers. The brand, the magazine, has to be the main dish. If you’re going to survive in this multifaceted world of information, you have to do what makes you special.” That’s a lesson Teen Vogue’s Chen and her compatriots know well. “People call it EVA CHEN: new media and social media, but to me, it’s media. It’s different layers and everything MINING MULTIPLE has to serve its purpose,” says Chen, noting that may mean producing a beautiful PLATFORMS Whether it’s Tumblr or photo shoot for the magazine, then providing a tutorial for how to get the fi nished Twitter or a new emerging look at teenvogue.com and behind the scenes pictures at Tumblr and the musical platform, Chen has proven playlist from the shoot at Spotify. “I want readers to be able to literally live the story. herself adept at reaching The magazine always has to be the standard to which everything else is held.” Q out in myriad mediums to enhance her relationship with readers.

Magazines: The New Brand Experience Direct E! ects: Whereas once the primary purpose of a magazine was to entertain and educate, today readers are looking for direct recommendations and guidance through the thicket of product launches. Branding Beyond the Page: Magazine-branded items, from bed sheets to beauty products, are on the rise. Hi, I’m Your Editor: Thanks to the immediacy of social media platforms, readers no longer view the editor as an all-powerful arbiter, but rather as someone who’s available anytime, anywhere for instant advice. The Big But: Despite the new bells and whistles, success still depends on

ELLE SPA PHOTO BY ALEXANDER TAMARGO BY PHOTO ELLE SPA what’s inside the pages of a magazine. Readers desert those who forget that.

BB1109-PG40-WELL-Editors.a;16.indd 5 8/31/11 12:28 PM 44 WWD BEAUTY INC

EYE CANDY Country Fair

Beauty Inc asked some leading tastemakers to share with WHALEN N SOMODY us who best epitomizes modern American beauty today.

“If I have to pick one it would be ANGELINA JOLIE. I like the fact that she is a mother who clearly loves her children. She has incredible style, but she is also a daredevil and takes risks. She is a confi dent woman who is always doing something exciting. To me, that is real beauty.” —FRÉDÉRIC FEKKAI

“American fashion has a certain “DREW BARRYMORE is the spirit as well as an aesthetic. It quintessential American beauty— carries the American sensibility of she is beautiful on the inside and hard work and opportunities for out. From her talent as a director change. MARY KATE and ASHLEY to her philanthropic endeavors, she OLSEN embody this. They’ve come is incredibly witty and charming.” so far, and have worked so hard —TOMMY HILFIGER to get where they are. They’ve been able to see opportunities for change in their careers, embrace their original style and evolve. “JENNIFER ANISTON They are extremely talented, but “For me, OPRAH WINFREY epitomizes KRISTE EICHNER; OLSENS BY STEVE WINFREY BY IMAGES; GARETH CATTERMOLE/GETTY BY ANISTON MICHAEL BUCKNER/WIREIMAGE; DIAZ BY IMAGE; they also have the ability to make epitomizes American beauty. Her American beauty style feel accessible: taking risks strength, her force, her belief in because she is in their personal style as well as good, her desire to always fi nd the e! ortlessly chic their designs.” light and the positive in every- and exudes such –CHARLOTTE RONSON thing...all of that shows in her confi dence, which face, her smile, her shine. Oprah only enhances her is bigger than life...she resonates natural beauty strength and that is true beauty!” even more.” —DIANE VON FURSTENBERG —BOBBI BROWN

“SOOKIE STACKHOUSE! Doesn’t “CAMERON DIAZ epitomizes compromise her values (like all American beauty. She is great Americans). Loves her home gorgeous, incredibly smart and (like all American women). Has magical powers (we had better the funniest person I’ve ever met. with all we have to do—mom, wife, She has complete control of her lover, caregiver, worker, driver, career. Physically, she has never etc.). Is so sexy and her skin glows been more fi t and it inspires one and her hair is so shiny (more of to defy age in the way that she her magical powers brought to does. Cameron’s generous spirit life that she also has time to look makes her truly beautiful inside fabulous). Puts up with vampires and outside. She is also the most (the economy, bosses, ex-husbands, intelligent business woman I’ve mortgage holders, credit card debt). ever met and never compromises She is a warrior! (Fights for what what she believes in.” she believes in even if it’s not the most popular way to go!)” –GUCCI WESTMAN — BADGER JOLIE PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA; ANNA PAQUIN IN A SCENE FROM “TRUE BLOOD” BY HBO/JOHN P. JOHNSON; BARRYMORE BY JIM SPELLMAN/WIRE BY BARRYMORE JOHNSON; P. HBO/JOHN BY BLOOD” “TRUE FROM IN A SCENE ANNA PAQUIN SARDELLA; DONATO BY JOLIE PHOTO

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