THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY America the Beautiful INSIDE THE EVER-CHANGING MINDSET OF THE U.S. CONSUMER ≈ WHAT MAKES HER BUY ≈ WHY SHE CAME BACK ≈ THE KEY FACTORS FUELING GROWTH BBB1109-Cover.a;12.inddB1109-Cover.a;12.indd 1 88/30/11/30/11 11:44:44 PPMM Gotham, Inc. gi116914a Proof 1 YOUTUBE.COM/LIVERUNWAY Name Initials Date MCX-1A109C – Cover 2 Dir of Studio Services C. Weston Maybelline Proofreader D. Heiges Corporate “Fashion Week Beauty Inc. – Gatefold Cover 2” Art Director E. Turner Bleed: 10" x 12.25" Copywriter N/A Trim: 9.75" x 12" Global Creative Director J. Mauksch Safety: 9" x 11.25" Creative Director B. O’Reilly 4/C Bleed Page Project Manager P. Krell Line Screen: 150 Dir of Graphic Services S. Turner WWD-Beauty Inc.: September 2011 Account Executive E. Cross Client Maybelline This Advertisement Created by PDF Version HI-RES IN PLACE PROOF # 0 150 East 42ND Street, New York, NY 10017 Main Tel: 212.414.7000 Paper Fortune Gloss Text Line Screen 150 © 2011 Maybelline LLC. YOUTUBE.COM/LIVERUNWAYYOUTUBE.COM/LIVERUNWA Y Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. Lips: Eye Studio® Color Explosion™ Eyeshadow in Blue Blowout, Eye Studio® Color Plush™ Silk Eyeshadow in Sapphire Siren, Shine Sensational™ Lipgloss in Minty Sheer. MCX-1A109A – Outer Gate Flap Name Initials Date Maybelline Dir of Studio Services C. Weston Corporate Proofreader D. Heiges “Fashion Week Beauty Inc. – Blue Lips Gatefold Panel 1” Art Director E. Turner Bleed: 9.75" x 12.25" Trim: 9.5" x 12" Copywriter NA Safety: 8.75" x 11.25" Global Creative Director J. Mauksch 4/C Bleed Page Creative Director B. O’Reilly Line Screen: 150 Project Manager P. Krell WWD-Beauty Inc.: Sept 2011 Dir of Graphic Services S. Turner Account Executive E. Cross This Advertisement Created by Client Maybelline PDF Version HI-RES IN PLACE ND 150 East 42 Street, New York, NY 10017 PROOF # 0 Main Tel: 212.414.7000 Paper Fortune Gloss Text Line Screen 150 ©2011 Maybelline LLC. Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. Eyes: Eye Studio® Color Gleam™ Cream Eyeshadow in Flash of Forest and Blue Freeze, Eye Studio® Color Plush™ Silk Eyeshadow in Give Me Gold, Color Sensational® Lipcolor in Very Cherry. MCX-1A109B – Inner Gate Flap Name Initials Date Maybelline Dir of Studio Services C. Weston Corporate Proofreader D. Heiges “Fashion Week Beauty Inc. – Emily Painted Eyes Gatefold Panel 2” Art Director E. Turner Bleed: 9.75" x 12.25" Copywriter N/A Trim: 9.5" x 12" Safety: 8.75" x 11.25" Global Creative Director J. Mauksch 4/C Bleed Page Creative Director B. O’Reilly Line Screen: 150 Project Manager P. Krell WWD-Beauty Inc.: September 2011 Dir of Graphic Services S. Turner Account Executive E. Cross This Advertisement Created by Client Maybelline PDF Version HI-RES IN PLACE ND 150 East 42 Street, New York, NY 10017 PROOF # 0 Main Tel: 212.414.7000 Paper Fortune Gloss Text Line Screen 150 © 2011 Maybelline LLC. Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. Eyes: Eye Studio® Color Explosion™ Eyeshadow in Amethyst Ablazed, Eye Studio® Lasting Drama™ Gel Eyeliner in Eggplant. MCX-1A109D – Page 1 Name Initials Date Maybelline Dir of Studio Services C. Weston Corporate Proofreader D. Heiges “Fashion Week Beauty Inc. – Purple Eyes Kemp Gatefold Page 1” Art Director E. Turner Bleed: 10.25" x 12.25" Copywriter N/A Trim: 10" x 12" Safety: 9.25" x 11.25" Global Creative Director J. Mauksch 4/C Bleed Page Creative Director B. O’Reilly Line Screen: 150 Project Manager P. Krell WWD-Beauty Inc.: September 2011 Dir of Graphic Services S. Turner Account Executive E. Cross This Advertisement Created by Client Maybelline PDF Version HI-RES IN PLACE 150 East 42ND Street, New York, NY 10017 PROOF # 0 Main Tel: 212.414.7000 Paper Fortune Gloss Text Line Screen 150 2 WWD BEAUTY INC contents 21 Departments CORNER OFFICE 08 Master Class: Steve Stoute The master of multicultural marketing and the man behind the ascent of Carol’s Daughter 16 talks trends, story telling and the tanning of America. 12 Catching Up With: Andie MacDowell Beauty’s longest-serving spokesmodel (25 years and counting!) is gearing up for her latest role. 12 My First Job: Ole Henriksen The milk boy turned skin care magnate on his humble beginnings. 38 BEAUTY BULLETIN 14 Blue Valentine This fall, beauty’s got the blues. Features 16 Launch Window The season’s coolest launches. 21 Apothecary Now Harrods unveils the 28 The Anxiety Gap As the economy continues its harrowing newest addition to its storied beauty halls. pattern of highs and lows—dragging the consumer confi dence index down with it—the chasm between the haves and have-nots has never been wider. Here, a look at how the shopping habits of CONSUMER CHRONICLES Americans have changed to meet the new economic reality. 22 On Beauty’s Trail in Boston 34 Hand Power Forget the lipstick index: Beauty’s newest A makeup newbie heads to the recession-proof winner is nail color, with sales continuing to soar Burlington Mall for a fresh look. to new highs. 24 What’s Selling Where: 38 The Simple Life Fragrance executive Catherine Walsh fi nds Eye Shadow The bestsellers in a relaxation deep in the heart of Texas. hot category. 40 Messenger Center For today’s cutting-edge beauty editors, 26 Shopper Stalker: Short Hills, N.J. month-by-month communication with their readers has turned Who’s buying what—and why. into minute-by-minute contact, online and off. MISC 06 Pete Unplugged Looking at the 08 THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY supply side conundrum. ON THE COVER: 44 Country Fair Some leading stylemakers Illustration by weigh in on who’s the fairest of them all. Christoph Niemann America the Beautiful INSIDE THE EVER-CHANGING MINDSET OF THE U.S. CONSUMER: ≈ WHAT MAKES HER BUY ≈ WHY SHE CAME BACK ≈ THE KEY FACTORS FUELING GROWTH WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. or up to one year a" er the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 202, NO. 53. Sunday, September 11, 2011. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks a" er receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive O! cer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating O! cer & Chief Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that Financial O! cer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative O! cer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing o! ces. Canada Post Publications Mail o# er products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these o# ers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, O! ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. CHINSEE GEORGE BY TIM JENKINS; PRODUCTS BY HARRODS MIKE NAGLE; BY BORRIS; STOUTE DAN BY PHOTO WALSH BB1109-PG02-TOC.a;13.indd 1 8/31/11 1:51 PM NEW INVENTION! Get Instant Salon Effects. No Dry Time. Sally knows nails are the best accessory. Now, Sally makes it easy to get a salon effect anytime, any place. It wears like nail polish because it IS nail polish. Not a sticker. No dry time, so you’re ready to go.