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Steven Raichlen's Project Fire Episode Guide #101: Wine Country Grill The deep connection between wine and barbecue dates back millennia and still runs deep as ever. In the rustic wine country of the Santa Ynez Valley where Project Fire is taped, grape vines are used as fuel and wine for marinades and sauces. Here’s how the fruit of the vine meets the power of fire. First up: special Jidori-breed chicken breasts stuffed with country ham and dry-aged Sonoma Jack cheese grilled over a grape vine fire. Next, flank steak with pinot noir mushroom sauce grilled over charcoal and oak. Finally, chef John Cox from the Bear and Star restaurant smokes a whole bourbon-soaked wagyu strip loin that’s been aged three years. Grapevine-grilled chicken breasts with prosciutto and Monterey Jack Wine-marinated flank steak with pinot noir mushroom sauce Bourbon-aged strip loin smoked over oak #102: Steak And Beyond Be honest: What you really want to master is the perfect grilled steak. Make that many steaks by using a range of savvy grilling techniques. Leading off is a thick dry-brined New York strip with luscious anchovy crema. Tender quick-cooking lamb steaks come with herb-scented Moroccan charmoula. Accompany one or both with the ultimate baked potato—accordion cut Hasselbacks from Sweden. In today’s field trip, chef Curtis Stone grills an 80 day-aged rib steak over a wood fire at Gwen Butcher Shop and Restaurant in Los Angeles. Dueling beef rib steaks: wagyu vs. 80 day dry-aged Dry-brined rib eyes with anchovy crema Grilled lamb steaks with Moroccan charmoula Parmesan-crusted Hasselback potatoes APT WORLDWIDE * 55 Summer Street, Boston, MA 02110, USA [email protected] * [email protected] * [email protected] APTWW.ORG #103: Fish Hits the Fire Fish on the grill. Four simple words that strike fear into the hearts of novice grillers. Well, fear no more, because Project Fire walks you every step of the grilling process—from grilling whole fish and fillets to fire-roasting shellfish. Singapore-spiced halibut grilled in banana leaves. A whole fish with Indonesian flavors grilled by Rafael Lunetta, chef/owner of Lunetta in Santa Monica. Alaskan salmon riffs on Russian coulibiac, with a stuffing of grilled onions, mushrooms, rice and smoke. Finally, we grill pristinely fresh oysters with Asian-inflected aromatics. Singapore-spiced halibut in banana leaves Whole grilled Branzino with Indonesian spices New school Coulibiac grilled salmon with smoked eggs Grilled oysters with Asian aromatics #104: The Pac-Rim Grill The Pacific Rim extends from California and the Pacific Northwest to Korea, Japan, and Southeast Asia, where exotic herbs and spices, chiles, and umami-rich fish and soy sauce make for larger-than-life flavor. Look for big flavor grilled meats paired with a high proportion of vegetables—barbecue as health food. Steven begins with Vietnamese-inspired Jidori chicken skewered on fragrant lemongrass. From Thailand come sweet, smoky, garlicky baby back ribs, the ultimate street food. Next is your new favorite salad of summer, featuring pungent Asian herbs and fire-roasted shrimp and pineapple. Steven visits Los Angeles’ Koreatown district, for grilled beef short ribs at Parks BBQ with Jenee Kim. Koreatown short ribs and banchan side dishes Thai sweet chili ribs Shrimp and pineapple salad with Vietnamese flavors Lemongrass chicken bites #105: Grill Top Cocktail Party No one gathers around the stove to watch soup simmer or meat roasting in the oven. But fire up your grill and you instantly become the center of attention. In this episode, Steven reinvents the cocktail party, harnessing the power of live fire to take finger food over the top. He begins with West Indian rum-and citrus-glazed jumbo shrimp grilled on sugarcane. Italian-inspired “finger- burner” lamb chops are next, along with a great grilled dish from Spain: Catalan tomato bread (grilled bread rubbed with grilled garlic and tomatoes and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil). Smoked nectarine bellinis keep appetites sharp and conversation flowing. And sommelier Kristine Bocchino shares suggestions for three great wines to serve at the party. Plantation shrimp with spiced rum glaze Finger burner lamb chops Catalan grilled tomato bread APT WORLDWIDE * 55 Summer Street, Boston, MA 02110, USA [email protected] * [email protected] * [email protected] APTWW.ORG Smoked nectarine bellinis #106: Fusion Q Call it globalization’s upside. Call it melting pot extreme. It’s what you get when traditional American barbecue meets authentic ethnic grilling and it’s happening across the United States and around the world. This episode is about cross-culture mashups, from California paella, to a deli-inspired heirloom pork loin stuffed with pastrami, gruyere, and sauerkraut. In Venice Beach, Michelin-starred chef Josiah Citrin dazzles with aged duck, deftly seasoned, then smoked and grilled over a wood fire at his restaurant Charcoal Venice. Honey and coriander smoke-roasted duck So-Cal paella Pork loin Reuben #107: One Good Turn One of the oldest methods of live-fire cooking, rotisserie grilling (aka spit-roasting) combines the smoky sear of direct grilling with the gentle, moisture-preserving heat of roasting. And that’s before you add three other benefits: internal and external basting, no flare-ups, and the hunger- inducing fragrance of wood smoke. Game hens scented with garlic, cumin, and fiery Peruvian chiles acquire golden, crackling-crisp skin while turning on the spit. Meaty spare ribs take a cue from Hawaii’s huli-huli chicken (huli means “to turn”). A sweet-salty, lacquer-like glaze of pineapple juice, soy sauce, and honey makes them irresistible. Finally, a spectacular whole spinning cinnamon-and sugar-crusted pineapple direct from Brazil. Los Angeles sommelier Kristine Bocchino recommends three wines to make the meal taste even better. Peruvian game hens with creamy salsa verde Huli-huli spare ribs Brazilian rotisserie pineapple #108: Grilling 24/7 The time of day or night matters little to the world’s hardcore pit masters, who think nothing of firing up grills or smokers or wood-burning ovens for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or even a late night snack. I often start my day with a barbecue breakfast, such as farm eggs grilled in a cast iron skillet with cream, crusty bread crumbs, Parmesan, and crisp shards of prosciutto. For lunch, we have wood-fired pizzas from the popular eclectic Industrial Eats in Buellton, California. Spice-crusted pastrami beef ribs make a spectacular supper, and for a midnight snack, Steven makes South African grilled Cheese sandwiches, smoky and salty with bacon and sweet and fruity with mango chutney. Industrial eats pizzas Grilled eggs with prosciutto and parmesan APT WORLDWIDE * 55 Summer Street, Boston, MA 02110, USA [email protected] * [email protected] * [email protected] APTWW.ORG Pastrami beef ribs South African grilled cheese #109: Extreme Grilling Long before there were gas grills and charcoal, before rotisseries and planchas, there was fire. Today’s show is all about primal ways to use it. Los Angeles’s meat-centric Italian chop house, chi SPACCA, sets the stage with a monster pork tomahawk dusted with fennel pollen and pepper and grilled over almond wood by chef Ryan DeNicola. Next, salmon steaks come—talk about primal—smokily grilled on a shovel over a blazing campfire. Double-thick pork chops are grilled caveman-style: directly on blazing embers, to be finished with a sizzling poblano pan-fry. For the ultimate decadent dessert: cedar-plank grilled chocolate brownie s’mores. We’re grilling extreme. Fennel pepper grilled pork tomahawk Salmon grilled on a shovel Caveman pork chops with poblano pan-fry Cedar plank brownie s’mores #110: Wrangler Tailgate The first tailgating party took place in 1869 at a Princeton-Rutgers football game. Picnickers grazed from food arranged on the buckboards of horse-drawn wagons—the precursor of one of America’s most favorite pastimes: tailgating. Today the party goes global, starting with lettuce- wrapped, smoked pulled lamb from the wood-burning smoker at Odys + Penelope in Los Angeles. Next, honey soy chicken wings ingeniously smoked on skewers—eat them like lollipops. Brisket tacos, served with avocadoes and wood-grilled salsa, make a magisterial main dish. And true to the global tailgating theme, potato salad gets the Peruvian treatment with yellow chile-spiked cheese sauce. Smoked pulled lamb in lettuce leaves Honey soy chicken wings Brisket tacos Peruvian potato salad #111: So-Cal Grill Health-conscious Southern California boasts some of the most vibrant grilling in North America. Start with hyper-local ingredients. Add clean bold California flavors and plenty of hot fire and wood smoke. Up first, the classic California fish taco, reimagined with wood fire-grilled, sushi- quality tuna and ember-roasted salsa. Next: char-grilled Santa Barbara lobsters sauced with Caribbean-inspired orange mojo. No So-Cal barbecue would be complete without tri-tip, and Anthony Endy, executive chef at the Alisal Guest Ranch & Resort (where Project Fire is filmed), updates it with a verdant South American chimichurri. Wood-grilled Castroville artichokes with charred lemon aioli bring the show to a fiery close. APT WORLDWIDE * 55 Summer Street, Boston, MA 02110, USA [email protected] * [email protected] * [email protected] APTWW.ORG Grilled Tuna Tacos Santa Barbara lobsters with orange mint mojo Santa Monica tri-trip with three-herb chimichurri Grilled artichokes with charred Meyer lemon aioli #112: Raichlen’s Rules In this episode, Steven looks at fundamental techniques that he has used over the years. Season Two #201: Grilling with Wood It’s the world’s most ancient grilling method, and to my mind, it remains the best. It’s practiced on six continents by traditionalists and cutting-edge chefs alike.
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  • The HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER and CARVER

    The HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER and CARVER

    TH EL BUTCHER, GARDE MANAGER AND CARVER: SUGGESTIONS... Frank Rivers m ed by Google The HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER and CARVER By FRANK RIVERS Suggestions for the Buying, Handling, Sale, and Service of Meats, Poultry and Fish for Hotels, Restaurants, Clubs, and Institutions An Expression of the Practical Experience of One Who has Spent Thirty Years in All Branches of Kitchen, Pantry and Store- room Work; Also as Steward and Buyer. The Book Supplemented with Gleanings from the pages of THE HOTEL MONTHLY. Copyright 1916, by Frank Rivers PUBLISHED BY THE HOTEL MONTHLY PRESS 443 SOUTH DEARBORN STREET, CHICAGO, ILL. : ' • - ; : i To the Header If we are to work well, we must think well. This book may not accomplish all the prac- tical ends possible, but it is hoped it will help the reader to think and work along right lines. Those who think right may be best trusted to do right. I wi>h to thank and acknowledge my indebt- edness for information and courtesies received by me in compiling this book from the following firms and persons: The Morris Packing Co., Chicago. The Sherman Hotel Co., Chicago. The Hotel Monthly, Chicago. Mr. John Tellman, St. Louis. Albert Pick & Co., Chicago. W. M. Walker & Co.. fish dealers. Chicago. Armour Packing Co., Chicago. Magner-Winslow Provision Co., Chicago. Irwin Bros., meat dealers, Chicago. Mr. L. Wilson, Harvey system, Chicago. J. L. Oxley & Co., veal and poultry, Chicago. Cohen & Co., Chicago. John G. Neumeister Co., Chicago. Fuaxk Rivkks. J L 6 -I 7. 7 THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER £ CARVER SUGGESTIONS FOR THE BUYING, HANDLING, SALE, AND SERVICE OF MEATS FOR HOTELS, RESTAURANTS, CLUBS AND INSTITUTIONS-^ Frank Rivers INTRODUCTORY REMARKS Generally the chef does the butchering in hotels I have made a life-time study of meats and that do not employ a professional butcher; or the service of meat foods in lintels, restaurants he will have it done by one of his cooks that and clubs, and have attained a degree of profi- has a special fitness or knowledge of the work.