TH EL BUTCHER, GARDE MANAGER AND CARVER: SUGGESTIONS... Frank Rivers m ed by Google The HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER and CARVER By FRANK RIVERS Suggestions for the Buying, Handling, Sale, and Service of Meats, Poultry and Fish for Hotels, Restaurants, Clubs, and Institutions An Expression of the Practical Experience of One Who has Spent Thirty Years in All Branches of Kitchen, Pantry and Store- room Work; Also as Steward and Buyer. The Book Supplemented with Gleanings from the pages of THE HOTEL MONTHLY. Copyright 1916, by Frank Rivers PUBLISHED BY THE HOTEL MONTHLY PRESS 443 SOUTH DEARBORN STREET, CHICAGO, ILL. : ' • - ; : i To the Header If we are to work well, we must think well. This book may not accomplish all the prac- tical ends possible, but it is hoped it will help the reader to think and work along right lines. Those who think right may be best trusted to do right. I wi>h to thank and acknowledge my indebt- edness for information and courtesies received by me in compiling this book from the following firms and persons: The Morris Packing Co., Chicago. The Sherman Hotel Co., Chicago. The Hotel Monthly, Chicago. Mr. John Tellman, St. Louis. Albert Pick & Co., Chicago. W. M. Walker & Co.. fish dealers. Chicago. Armour Packing Co., Chicago. Magner-Winslow Provision Co., Chicago. Irwin Bros., meat dealers, Chicago. Mr. L. Wilson, Harvey system, Chicago. J. L. Oxley & Co., veal and poultry, Chicago. Cohen & Co., Chicago. John G. Neumeister Co., Chicago. Fuaxk Rivkks. J L 6 -I 7. 7 THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER £ CARVER SUGGESTIONS FOR THE BUYING, HANDLING, SALE, AND SERVICE OF MEATS FOR HOTELS, RESTAURANTS, CLUBS AND INSTITUTIONS-^ Frank Rivers INTRODUCTORY REMARKS Generally the chef does the butchering in hotels I have made a life-time study of meats and that do not employ a professional butcher; or the service of meat foods in lintels, restaurants he will have it done by one of his cooks that and clubs, and have attained a degree of profi- has a special fitness or knowledge of the work. ciency which has been commented upon favor- But there is where the trouble lies. The aver- ably by my employers. I have been asked to age cook has no special training or knowledge write for The IIotf.l. Monthly a series of arti- of the meat cutting art. cles on this subject, to the end that my experi- To begin with the chef: Probably not one ence may be of benefit to others. chef in ten (of American training) ever held I have undertaken this task with considerable a position as butcher. It is more than likely hesitation, for I realize that it is not easy to he started in as an assistant in the garde- impart one's knowledge thru the medium of the manger department, or as an assistant fry printed page. It is much easier to give a cook, or fireman, and worked his way up grad- practical demonstration in the butcher shop, ually to head fry cook; from that to roast so that all the senses of sight, smell, touch, and cook or broiler, as those departments pay more; taste may be brought into play in imparting and then as second cook; after which he has -information. However, I will do my best, and offered himself to the employer as a chef; or, hope, with the aid of drawings and photographs, as it often happens, he has been promoted to 1 to make my meaning plain. the place of chef, and has had himself so I ask the indulgence of my readers to pardon established. Now, you will notice, I have not the lack of literary style. I shall write as I credited him with any butchering work. That speak, and, to the best of my ability, in the is because he has never had any special train- is . language of the kitchen, so as to be more easily ing in that part of the work; and that why I would say I do not claim butchering is largely apart from cooking. ; understood. that ) to "know it all." There are those who will So it is, very few cooks have had any special differ from me along certain lines; but I am training in meat cutting. Tie is a fry cook, a writing of things as my own judgment dic- roast cook, or a second cook. The butchering » tates— of how I have observed the work of is anybody's and everybody's work. But, in . many others, and selected as my way what ap- the majority of cases, it falls to the lot of the i peared to be the best of their ways, supple- chef to do the meat cutting, and, as you may mented, of course, by my own initiative where judge from the above recital, the landlord suf- I thought I could see a way to improve. fers a serious loss in consequence. in v No part of the chef's work is more important Now Europe they do things better. They than the meat cutting and carving, yet it is the have a system of apprenticeship from which are worst executed and least understood. Butcher- graduated cooks and chefs, and everything is is cook's taken into account. They apprentice to meat ly ing really a part of the work. Never- Y theless it is apart from it in many respects. In cutting and carving as well as broiling, frying, ' the large establishments they have a butcher and the other branches. The profession is more r, shop with a butcher and assistants, and they highly appreciated in most European countries. do all the meat cutting, help with the carving, There a father is glad to have his son appren- and the garde-manger work, in some instances, ticed to the bakers', confectioners', or cooks' and prepare the poultry and fish. But this is calling, for which he pays a premium to learn, only in the big hotels and cities, as a rule. and gets value received. In America the aver- In the great majority of places they have no age cook has to learn meat cutting "on the butcher, and the work is done by the cook. fly." Occasionally there is an unusually 1038187 Digitized by Google 6 THE HOTEL BUTCHER. GARDE MANGER AND CARVER bilious and intelligent pupil, and he sees for profits is carrying a big handicap that will lose himself that he serves a reasonable time as him the race for preferment and success. butcher in his efforts to become a chef. But You can have no better assistance than a good he is the exception and not the rule. Every- book of instructions. In writing this series of thing considered, there is a crying need for an articles my object will be to increase your effi- educational work on the subject I have under- ciency in meat cutting, and carving, and to taken to write upon. explain the most correct and economical ways • • • of handling the different meats. As time advances, and conditions change, • • • more is expected and demanded of the chefs. With the advent of the European plan hotel, The last few years have witnessed a great catering has become a more exact science, and change in the kitchens. The old-style American the steward or employer is keeping a strict plan hotel is almost obsolete. New conditions tale on the cook's work. It is so arranged prevail, and the cook must meet and master that, by comparison of the different days' rec- the situation if he is to succeed. ords, an accurate account is kept of the dif- The present high cost of provisions will not ferent departments; and woe betide the chef permit of any waste on the cook's part; and that has been inefficient in the handling of his the chef that cannot handle his meat supplies supplies. And, of course, in the meat cutting so as to obtain the maximum of returns and and carving is where he can lose the most. BEEF CARCASS BEEF IN SMALL CUTS Percent Price Amount 1 Hind Shanks for Soup 03.82© .03 = 11.46 2 Rumps for Roast 03. S3© .07 = 26.81 3 Rounds for Steak 15.46© .11 =170 06 4 Sirloin Steaks 09O0(« .13 =117.00 5 Porter House Steaks 08.50© .20 =170 00 6 Flank Steaks 01.00© 17 = 17 .00 7 Flanks for Boiling 04.10© OS = 32 SO 8 Short Ribs for Roast 04 .00© .08 = 32 00 9 Navel Hanks for Boiling 4.47 © .06 = 20.82 10 Rib Roast 03.50© .11 = 38 50 11 Rib Steaks 05.60© .14 = 78.40 12 Chuck Steaks 13 00© .11 =143 .00 13 Chuck Roasts 10 C0f 07 = 70 00 14 Briskets for Boiling 06 00 © .09 = 54 00 15 Shanks for Soup 04.00© .04 = 16 00 03 72 100 00', 10.03.85 CARCASS BEEF IN MARKET CUTS Per cent Price Amount Ribs 09 10 © 12 S5 =11G 93 17 50 © 16 40 =287.00 23 11 © 9 02 = 208.45 Flanks 05 10 © 9 79 = 49.92 Nav. End OS 47 © 6 95 = 58 86 Chucks 33 00 8 58 = X X Knuckles Off. © 283.14 OOOO Lombar and Kidney Fat Out. Shkge 03.72 A Four Vertebrae Off. 100.00% 10.04 30 Digitized by Google THE HOTEL BUTCHER. GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 7 BEEF HIND QUARTERS IN SMALL CUTS Per cent Price Amount AQ CO rffij Hind Shanks for Soup .1*5 = 11.46 Art B 1 Rumps for Roast 03 82 @ .07 = 2o hi Rounds for Steak 15.46 @ .11 = 170.06 Sirloin Steaks 09.00 @ .13 = 117.00 Porter House Steaks 08.50 @ .20 = 170 00 Flank Steaks 01.00 @ .17 = 17.00 Flanks for Boiling 04.10 ® .08 = 32.80 Shrinkage 02 72 48.43% 5.45.13 BEEF FORE QUARTERS IN SMALL CUTS Per cent Price Amount Short Ribs for Roast 0-1.00 @ .08 = 32.00 Nav.