Berlin October - November 2014
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Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels Berlin October - November 2014 The Wall 25 years later Anniversary celebrations West Berlin New life in the old west inyourpocket.com N°71 - €1.75 Contents Transport 5 Getting around by S&U Sports in Berlin 6 All about Berlin’s top teams Basics 8 Essential travel tips Mauerfall 9 25 Years after the Wall Culture & Events 10 Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema Gendamenmarkt AM Berlin Mitte 20 The delights of the city centre Berlin Prenzlauer Berg 42 The gentrifi ed north Berlin Charlottenburg & The West 32 Genteel western Berlin Berlin Friedrichshain 46 Worker’s paradise, student’s playground Berlin Kreuzberg 48 SYMBOL KEY Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled City Tours 56 V E Home delivery Live music Guided walks, bike rides and drives N No credit cards M Nearest S/U-Bahn station Potsdam 58 B Outside seating G Non-smoking room Royal palaces and grand gardens S Take away R Internet W Wi-Fi Directory 59 Additional symbols for hotels Maps & Index P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted Street register 60 Local cuisine 61-63 L Guarded parking H Conference facilities City map F K Public transport map 64-65 Fitness centre Restaurant Index 66 D Sauna C Swimming pool Dinner price guide The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, café BERLIN BOXES and nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price level based on a main course with a glass of wine. Scattered throughout the guide you’ll fi nd boxes with more information about these topics: Wartburgstraße 54, Berlin - Schöneberg €€€€ Expensive; more than €30 per person. €€€ Not cheap; €20-30 per person. Berlin in books 55 Open daily from 18:00 €€ Middling; from €10-20 per person. Cold War Berlin 39 Erasmus Student Network 8 Tel. 784 20 59 € Cheap; less than €10 per person. West Berlin Revival 41 www.renger-patzsch.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 3 Foreword Transport All of us at Berlin In Your Pocket clearly remember the night Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great distance) ticket if you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn Publisher the Wall fell 25 years ago, even though we were in diff erent In Your Pocket GmbH empty vastness of northeast Germany, it’s very well stops, or up to six stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate cities and countries at the time; for all of us it was clear a Axel-Springer-Straße 39 connected to the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn a lot of travelling, get the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid momentous change was taking place that would change 10969 Berlin and air. Once in Berlin, you’ll wish that your home town had until 03:00 the next morning; €6,70) or the seven-day our horizon. It’s easy to lose track of what Berlin has gone Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81 such good public transport. pass (€28,80). Groups of up to fi ve people are best off through since then; two isolated, rather provincial towns Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50 with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day ticket, €16,20). The have haphazardly merged into a thriving metropolis that [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (€18,50-38,50) is valid for despite a lack of obvious beauty has become a magnet for PUBLIC TRANSPORT transport and some attractions. ISSN 1611-9037 visitors from near and far. Berlin’s integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn, Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin. underground trains), bus, and Straßenbahn (trams) run ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near In November, major anniversary celebrations are planned; Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly see p.9 for the programme and further details. Plenty of by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines The public transport map is used under license no. BVG-0079.11. sights related to the Wall can be visited at other times too; commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and see p.39 for a selection. And if history isn’t your thing, there Editorial remember the number or colour and end station of the line there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes are dozens of other concerts, parties, exhibitions and events Editors Jeroen van Marle, Philippe Krüger, Christina Knight you want to use, and you’ll be navigating the labyrinth-like inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket you’ll planned; see our events selection from p.10 for suggestions. Research Cecilia Engvall, Layout Tomáš Haman, stations like a local. be fi ned €40 on the spot. Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG) Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes Even though all the attention is focused on the old East, Maps Kartographie Eichner, during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at BVG try to look the other way too; West Berlin has recently Cover © Axel Lauer | Dreamstime.com night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights, The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses and undergone a lot of investment, with several hotels, malls with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at www. and attractions newly opened this year. See p.41 for our Sales & Circulation Q General Manager Stephan Krämer from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights. fahrinfo-berlin.de. tel. +49 30 194 49, [email protected], overview. Production Manager Philippe Krüger Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train www.bvg.de. Whatever you do this autumn, let us know your tips and Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt services. Vending machines have instructions in English comments at [email protected]. Enjoy Berlin. Advertising Managers Philippe Krüger, and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlin’s CoCoMedia ([email protected]) AB travel zone contains nearly everything; you’ll only need TAXIS Q COVER STORY Copyright notice & Editor’s note an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport. CITY FUNK tel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de. Text and photos (unless otherwise stated) copyright pocket With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone €2,60, ABC €3,20) FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26, publishing GmbH. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights you can travel one-way for up to two hours with unlimited www.taxifunkberlin.de. Original parts of the Berlin Wall on reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in transfers; it’s cheaper to buy four tickets at once (Vier- any form without written permission from the copyright Q Bernauer Strasse merge with art. Fahrten-Karte, €8,80). Buy a €1,50 Kurzstrecke (short TAXI FUNK tel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de. This street forms a 1,5-kilometre owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania open air exhibition about the Berlin tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Wall, which famously came down The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent 25 years ago. See p.9 for more from paid-for advertising. We have made every eff ort to about the anniversary festivities. ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no THE TOURIST TICKET responsibility for changes and errors. ABOUT IYP We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the fi rst ESTONIA In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in LATVIA RUSSIA Lithuania - so much so that we are NORTHERN LITHUANIA IRELAND today the largest publisher of locally- IRELAND BELARUS produced city guides in the world. The NETHERLANDS POLAND publication earlier this year of guides to free ride around the clock GERMANY UKRAINE BELGIUM CZECH Johannesburg and to the islands of REPUBLIC the Dutch Caribbean - our fi rst guides AUSTRIA 200 discounts HUNGARY SWITZERLAND ROMANIA GEORGIA in the Southern Hemisphere - has taken SLOVENIACROATIA ITALY the number of guides published each BOSNIA SERBIA BULGARIA MONTENEGRO year by In Your Pocket to well over fi ve city map + guide FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA million, spread across more than 100 GREECE cities on three continents. And there is from more to come: make sure you keep up 18,50 € DUTCH CARIBBEAN with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by SOUTH AFRICA liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/ Available at the Berlin Tourist Infos, BVG + S-Bahn, in many hotels and online. inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). berlin-welcomecard.de 4 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 5 Sports in Berlin Sports in Berlin Despite being rivals, Berlin’s six professional sports collaborate to improve the circumstances for professional EISBÄREN BERLIN (ICE HOCKEY) FÜCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL) sports in Berlin, promoting Berlin’s image as an international Originating in 1953 in East Ger- “The foxes’, Berlin’s sports event destination. many’s Dynamo sports club, the handball team, is part The home matches of Berlin’s pro teams are easy to visit: ‘polar bears’ is Berlin’s popular of an old West Berlin you don’t need to understand German to be able to follow professional ice hockey team. sports club, and now a match and unlike in other European countries, sports They have won the national plays home matches matches in Germany are quite peaceful events, meaning Deutsche Eishockey Liga 7 times, in Prenzlauer Berg’s it’s no problem to bring the whole family to the stadium more than any other team, most famous Max-Schmel- for an afternoon or evening of fun.