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Home , Berliner Philharmonie, Dynamo Sports Club, Mehringdamm, Prenzlauer Allee, Tempodrom, Viktoriapark

Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels October - November 2014

The 25 years later Anniversary celebrations

West Berlin New life in the old west

inyourpocket.com N°71 - €1.75 Contents

Transport 5 Getting around by S&U

Sports in Berlin 6 All about Berlin’s top teams

Basics 8 Essential travel tips

Mauerfall 9 25 Years after the Wall

Culture & Events 10 Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema Gendamenmarkt AM Berlin 20 The delights of the city centre Berlin 42 The gentrifi ed north Berlin & The West 32 Genteel western Berlin Berlin 46 Worker’s paradise, student’s playground

Berlin 48 SYMBOL KEY Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled City Tours 56 V E Home delivery Live music Guided walks, bike rides and drives N No credit cards M Nearest S/U-Bahn station 58 B Outside seating G Non-smoking room Royal palaces and grand gardens S Take away R Internet W Wi-Fi Directory 59 Additional symbols for hotels Maps & Index P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted Street register 60 Local cuisine 61-63 L Guarded parking H Conference facilities City map F K Public transport map 64-65 Fitness centre Restaurant Index 66 D Sauna C pool Dinner price guide The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, café BERLIN BOXES and nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price level based on a main course with a glass of wine. Scattered throughout the guide you’ll fi nd boxes with more information about these topics: Wartburgstraße 54, Berlin - Schöneberg €€€€ Expensive; more than €30 per person. €€€ Not cheap; €20-30 per person. Berlin in books 55 Open daily from 18:00 €€ Middling; from €10-20 per person. Berlin 39 Erasmus Student Network 8 Tel. 784 20 59 € Cheap; less than €10 per person. Revival 41

www.renger-patzsch.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 3 Foreword Transport All of us at Berlin In Your Pocket clearly remember the night Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great distance) ticket if you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn Publisher the Wall fell 25 years ago, even though we were in diff erent In Your Pocket GmbH empty vastness of northeast , it’s very well stops, or up to six stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate cities and countries at the time; for all of us it was clear a Axel-Springer-Straße 39 connected to the rest of civilisation by bus, train, a lot of travelling, get the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid momentous change was taking place that would change 10969 Berlin and air. Once in Berlin, you’ll wish that your home town had until 03:00 the next morning; €6,70) or the seven-day our horizon. It’s easy to lose track of what Berlin has gone Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81 such good public transport. pass (€28,80). Groups of up to fi ve people are best off through since then; two isolated, rather provincial towns Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50 with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day ticket, €16,20). The have haphazardly merged into a thriving metropolis that [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (€18,50-38,50) is valid for despite a lack of obvious beauty has become a magnet for PUBLIC TRANSPORT transport and some attractions. ISSN 1611-9037 visitors from near and far. Berlin’s integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn, Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin. underground trains), bus, and Straßenbahn (trams) run ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near In November, major anniversary celebrations are planned; Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly see p.9 for the programme and further details. Plenty of by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines The public transport map is used under license no. BVG-0079.11. sights related to the Wall can be visited at other times too; commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and see p.39 for a selection. And if history isn’t your thing, there Editorial remember the number or colour and end station of the line there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes are dozens of other concerts, parties, exhibitions and events Editors Jeroen van Marle, Philippe Krüger, Christina Knight you want to use, and you’ll be navigating the labyrinth-like inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket you’ll planned; see our events selection from p.10 for suggestions. Research Cecilia Engvall, Layout Tomáš Haman, stations like a local. be fi ned €40 on the spot. Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG) Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes Even though all the attention is focused on the old East, Maps Kartographie Eichner, during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at BVG try to look the other way too; West Berlin has recently Cover © Axel Lauer | Dreamstime.com night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights, The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses and undergone a lot of investment, with several hotels, malls with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at www. and attractions newly opened this year. See p.41 for our Sales & Circulation Q General Manager Stephan Krämer from ) on weekday nights. fahrinfo-berlin.de. tel. +49 30 194 49, [email protected], overview. Production Manager Philippe Krüger Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train www.bvg.de. Whatever you do this autumn, let us know your tips and Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt services. Vending machines have instructions in English comments at [email protected]. Enjoy Berlin. Advertising Managers Philippe Krüger, and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlin’s CoCoMedia ([email protected]) AB travel zone contains nearly everything; you’ll only need TAXIS Q COVER STORY Copyright notice & Editor’s note an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport. CITY FUNK tel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de. Text and photos (unless otherwise stated) copyright pocket With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone €2,60, ABC €3,20) FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26, publishing GmbH. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights you can travel one-way for up to two hours with unlimited www.taxifunkberlin.de. Original parts of the on reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in transfers; it’s cheaper to buy four tickets at once (Vier- any form without written permission from the copyright Q Bernauer Strasse merge with art. Fahrten-Karte, €8,80). Buy a €1,50 Kurzstrecke (short TAXI FUNK tel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de. This street forms a 1,5-kilometre owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, , Lithuania open air exhibition about the Berlin tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Wall, which famously came down The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent 25 years ago. See p.9 for more from paid-for advertising. We have made every eff ort to about the anniversary festivities. ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no THE TOURIST TICKET responsibility for changes and errors.

ABOUT IYP

We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the fi rst In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in RUSSIA Lithuania - so much so that we are NORTHERN LITHUANIA IRELAND today the largest publisher of locally- IRELAND produced city guides in the world. The NETHERLANDS POLAND publication earlier this year of guides to free ride around the clock GERMANY BELGIUM CZECH Johannesburg and to the islands of REPUBLIC the Dutch Caribbean - our fi rst guides AUSTRIA 200 discounts HUNGARY SWITZERLAND in the Southern Hemisphere - has taken SLOVENIACROATIA ITALY the number of guides published each BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO year by In Your Pocket to well over fi ve city map + guide FYR MACEDONIA million, spread across more than 100 GREECE cities on three continents. And there is from more to come: make sure you keep up 18,50 € DUTCH CARIBBEAN with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by SOUTH AFRICA liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/ Available at the Berlin Tourist Infos, BVG + S-Bahn, in many hotels and online. inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). berlin-welcomecard.de

4 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 5 in Berlin Sports in Berlin Despite being rivals, Berlin’s six professional sports collaborate to improve the circumstances for professional EISBÄREN BERLIN () FÜCHSE BERLIN () sports in Berlin, promoting Berlin’s image as an international Originating in 1953 in East Ger- “The foxes’, Berlin’s sports event destination. many’s sports club, the handball team, is part The home matches of Berlin’s pro teams are easy to visit: ‘polar bears’ is Berlin’s popular of an old West Berlin you don’t need to understand German to be able to follow professional ice hockey team. sports club, and now a match and unlike in other European countries, sports They have won the national plays home matches matches in Germany are quite peaceful events, meaning Deutsche Eishockey Liga 7 times, in Prenzlauer Berg’s it’s no problem to bring the whole family to the stadium more than any other team, most famous Max-Schmel- for an afternoon or evening of fun. Finding out about recently in 2013 under Canadian ing-Halle, named after which matches are playing where can be problematic for coach Jeff Tomlinson. They also bagged the European the German visitors however as the club websites are not all available Trophy in 2010; unfortunately they were not as lucky in legend who was world in English, and some make it diffi cult to fi nd the upcoming the 2013/2014 season. But their home matches at the champion heavyweight playing dates. In the club details here we have listed all O2 Stadium are true family fests, with plenty of young between 1930-32. The Füchse compete in Germany’s home matches for the following months, though always fans packing the seats, and a festive, good-humoured Handball Liga and the European Champions League, Alba playing at the O2 World Stadium keep an eye on the club websites for changes or additional atmosphere. and won the German cup at the end of the very suc- matches. Berlin’s offi cial English-language sports website Their upcoming home matches are: cesful 2013-2014 season. Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports - the www.berlin-sportmetropole.de has information about all 5 Oct, 14:30: Düsseldorfer EG city has no less than six professional sports teams, playing the teams, venues and tickets; ticket booking site www. 10 Oct, 19:30: ERC Ingolstadt Upcoming home games: fi ve exciting spectator sports: Hertha BSC and FC Union eventimsports.de sells tickets for all matches. 19 Oct, 16:30: Schwenninger Wild Wings 11 Oct, 16:15: THW Kiel play football, the Eisbären is an ace ice hockey team, Alba is The Alba Berlin team, also known as the 26 Oct, 14:30: Iserlohn Roosters 14 Oct, 19:00: HC Erlangen Berlin’s renowned basketball club, the Füchse play handball, Albatrosses, is based in Berlin-Friedrichshain’s impressive 2 Nov, 17:45: EHC Red Bull München 26 Oct, 17:15: MT Melsungen and is taken care of by the BR Volleys. Their O2-World stadium. The team was founded in 1989 but is 16 Nov, 14:30: Grizzly Adams Wolfsburg 9 Nov, 17:15: TSG Friesenheim home matches attract huge numbers of visitors to Berlin’s already eight-time winner of the German championship, 21 Nov, 19:30: Augsburger Panther stadiums; last season alone 2,4 million tickets were sold last in March 2013, and coming second in 2014. Under 28 Nov, 19:30: Krefeld Pinguine QG-1, Am Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), for their events. In addition to this, Berlin’s streets regularly coach Sasa Obradovic, a refreshed team with young new QI-4, Mildred-Harnack-Straße (O2 World), Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 host huge sports events such as the public viewing festivals talent including Jamel McLean, Jonathan Tabu and Niels Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 44 30 44 30, www.fuechse-berlin.de. Tickets €12- during major sports events abroad, and the city also hosts Giff ey kicks off the 2014-15 season in early October. 30 97 18 40 40, www.eisbaeren.de. Tickets €18-46. 50. countless amateur sports matches. Enjoy cheering for Berlin!

ALBA BERLIN (BASKETBALL) BR VOLLEYS (VOLLEYBALL) FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL) HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL) Also known as the Albatrosse, FC Union is the work- Berlin’s basketball club is ing man’s football Germany’s most successful, and team for Berlin, orig- has the largest fanbase; home inating in matches easily attract 10,000 in 1966 and a feared spectators. The current team’s counterpart for the GDR’s state-infl uenced Dynamo average height is an impressive club. Union is still fi ercely independent, based in their Berlin’s main football team plays home matches at 1,98m. Since going pro in 1991, charming An der Alten Försterei stadium. The club has the impressive , Germany’s second Alba has won the German League 8 times and the Berlin’s professional volleyball team originates in the resisted all commercialism, with a club anthem sung largest stadium which was built for the 1936 German Cup 7 times (including 2013), and was also western district of Charlottenburg, but plays home by punkrock legend , and a stadium Olympic Games and renovated for the 2006 World the fi rst German team to win an international title with matches at the Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer uniquely partly owned by passionate fans. Nicknamed Cup. Hertha competes in the national Bundesliga the 1995 Korac Cup. Berg. The BR Volleys have been particularly successful Eisern Union (iron union), it had a tough time in the and internationally in the UEFA Cup and Uefa Alba slam-dunk their way to victory at their home O2 since the late 1990s, winning the German Bundesliga 1990s, but has had more success in the national com- Championships League. Hertha dates back to 1892 and World stadium on the following dates: title fi ve times, including in 2013 and 2014 under petitions since the early 2000s. is know as the ‘Alte Dame’, the old dame, witnessing its 2 Oct, 18:30: BG Göttingen trainer Mark Lebedew. glory years between 1926 and 1931 when it reached 8 Oct, 20:00: San Antonio Spurs Their upcoming home games are: Upcoming home games: the German Championship fi nals 6 times, winning it 12 Oct, 17:00: Ratiopharm Ulm 29 Oct, 19:30: TV Ingersoll Bühl 18 Oct, 13:00: SV Sandhausen twice. Nowadays Hertha’s fortunes are mixed, but the 17 Oct, 20:15: ZSKA Moskau 6 Nov, 19:30: ACH Volley Ljubljana 31 Oct, 18:30: SpVgg Greuther Fürth fan base remains loyal. 30 Oct, 20:00: Maccabi Tel Aviv 8 Nov, 18:00: CV Mitteldeutschland 22 Nov, 13:00: TSV 1860 München Upcoming home matches: 7 Nov, 20:00: Limoges CSP 15 Nov, 18:00: TSV Herrsching 3 Oct, 20:30: VfB Stuttgart 9 Nov, 17:00: FC Bayern München 22 Nov, 18:00: Netzhoppers KW-Bestensee QAn der Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten 25 Oct, 15:30: Hamburger SV 23 Nov, 17:00: Basketball Löwen Braunschweig 29 Nov, 18:00: SVG Lüneburg Försterei), Köpenick, MS Köpenick, tel. +49 30 656 7 Nov, 20:30: Hannover 96 27 Nov, 20:15: Unicaja Malaga 68 80, www.fc-union-berlin.de. Tickets €14-43. 29 Nov, 15:30: FC Bayern München QI-4, Mildred-Harnack-Straße (O2 World), QAm Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer QOlympischer Platz 3 (Olympiastadion), Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 Berg, tel. +49 1806 99 11 12, www.berlin-recycling- Charlottenburg, MS5 Olympiastadion, tel. +49 1805 57 00 11, www.albaberlin.de. Tickets €8-65. volleys.de. Tickets €13-16. 1805 18 92 00, www.herthabsc.de. Tickets €15-89.

6 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 7 Basics 25 Years after the Wall BASIC DATA

Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725 Longest river in Germany: Rhine, 1319km. The is 403km. Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962m Highest point of Berlin: , 114m Highest natural point of Berlin: Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66m Berlin’s territory: 900 square kilometers DRINKS & ALCOHOL Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita MONEY per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately Germany uses the euro (€). Banknotes come in denom- Berlin’s local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weiße, is only real- inations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500. Coins, ly palatable ‘mit Schuss’, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cock- whose design depends on in which country they were tails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped cents and €1 and €2. Credit and debit card payment is in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (‘kloob mah-tea’) ice tea, venues, though always have cash on you for small payments made with extract of the South American maté plant, caff eine just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process. just below the top label and top it up with wodka). Exchange offi ces can be found at the major train stations. © Kulturprojekte Berlin WHITEvoid / Christopher Bauder, Photo Daniel Büche

As the dictatorships in Eastern Europe crumbled one by both the society and the city centres were crumbling away. CRIME & SAFETY VISAS AND ENTRY one between 1989 and 1991, one event stood out as the It took decades for the two to grow together again, Berlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of petty FORMALITIES symbol for this dramatic turn of fate for Europe and the and only now that the traces of the Wall become ever more crimes are low compared to other Western European cap- EU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though world: the on 9 November 1989. faint, and as West Berlin enjoys increased attention, that itals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your registration at a Bürgeramt offi ce is offi cially required for stays wasn't the fi rst country to push its ageing we can start to say the city is truly reunited. For those who valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones more than a few months. Citizens of Australia, Canada, Hong communists aside, nor was it the last. But the pace of remember 1989, it's odd to imagine that in the meantime a unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walk- Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico USA and a few change here was so fast, and the opening of the deadly new generation of Berliners who were born after this event ing in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom others can enter Germany without a visa for a maximum of 90 border that split the city for 28 years was so unexpected, has grown up. And in just 3 years, the Wall will have been occur in Berlin’s touristed central areas. days in any six month period. All other nationals need to apply that it surprised the most knowledgeable of experts. gone just as long as it once divided this city. Berliners have for a German visa in advance. Note that there’s no passport no doubt that the Wall won't be forgotten soon. control between Germany and the other 14 European ‘Schen- The actual event leading to crowds of East Germans ELECTRICITY gen’ countries, and visas to any of these are valid for travel in streaming across the border was a moment of unintended Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via stand- Germany too. All visitors need a passport that is valid for at comedy; Communist Party spokesman Günter Schabowski ard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be least fourth months from the date of arrival; EU citizens can slipped up during a press conference on the evening of 9 ANNIVERSARY EVENTS bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and enter with a valid EU identity card too. Check the MFA website November in which he announced the suspension of travel 79 NOVEMBER many hotels will have them at the front desk too. for the latest immigration details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de. restrictions, saying this would take eff ect immediately. Various events take place in Berlin in the anniversary Border guards along the Wall were surprised by the growing weekend of 7-9 November. A 15-kilometre ‘Border crowds and eventually locked away their weapons and of Light’, consisting of 8000 lit-up balloons, follows ERASMUS STUDENT CLIMATE opened the border gates to avoid escalation – essentially the route of the Wall through central Berlin between NETWORK signalling the end of the East German state. Bornholmer Strasse and the Oberbaumbrücke bridge. 30 80 Each balloon has a patron, whose personal stories How do international students get to meet locals 25 70 PROGRESS can be read at www.fallofthewall25.com. On Sunday and the city during an academic exchange? The 60 9 November there’s a service at the Bernauer Strasse best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network 20 Several places in Berlin can be visited to learn more memorial, followed by the opening of the renovated 50 about the Berlin Wall and see some of the remains; most (ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student 15 documentation centre. In the afternoon, Mikhail associations in Europe. It was developed to help 40 important is the offi cial memorial on Bernauer Strasse, Gorbachev, Miklós Németh, Lech Wałęsa and other key 10 30 where a newly renovated information centre overlooks an

internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present (mm) Rainfall personalities kick off celebrations at , in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36 °C Temperature 5 original part of the death strip. See the Mitte chapter for after which Daniel Barenboim directs an open-air 20 other Wall-related sights and museums. countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section 0 10 concert at the . Around 19:00 the in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 8,000 balloons along the Wall are released. Read more you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or -5 0 It's easy to forget how much progress was made since those about this and all other events related to the Wall Rainfall (mm) Min Temp (°C) Max Temp (°C) www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam. joyful days in November 1989; West-Berlin was an over- anniversary at wall.visitBerlin.com. subsidised and unsustainable half-city, while in East Berlin

8 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 9 Culture & Events Culture & Events Berlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres STAATSOPER IM SCHILLERTHEATER and halls, top-quality artists The venue for Daniel Barenboim’s award-winning and relatively cheap tickets Staatskapelle orchestra. Temporarily housed in the - and an annual cultural Schillertheater until renovations of their grand theatre on budget of over €900 million are completed.QC-3, Bismarckstraße to fund it all. Sports lovers 110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30 can choose from a wide 20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Tickets €14-220. variety of matches played year-round. SHOWS ADMIRALSPALAST OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC This former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret, operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlin’s roaring 20s. West Berlin’s 1960s opera building with its excellent Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a acoustics hosts superb musical and theatrical performances. private box so that he could watch his favourite operetta Donald Runnicles is the principal conductor.QB-3, ‘The Merry Widow’, and Brecht tried out his new theatre Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche here from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now puts on schaubühne Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin. plays, concerts and musicals.QF-3, Friedrichstraße 101, de. Tickets from €16. Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, Theatre with English surtitles www.admiralspalast.de. Shows Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ KOMISCHE OPER €21-79. Starting off as the Theater Unter den Linden in 1892, the We offer several shows with building’s monumental neo-baroque main hall survived English surtitles every month. wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947. It shows classic WINTERGARTEN: MADNESS All upcoming shows with surtit- music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations in English Q les are announced at are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you. F-3, www.schaubuehne.de/surtitles Behrenstraße 55, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 Classical 30 20 26 00, www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Tickets €9- Tickets: 030.890023 | www.schaubuehne.de Masterpieces 150. Italy as Prussia‘s guest BERLINER RESIDENZ KONZERTE Every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday Together with the Deutscher and Französischer Dom The Berliner Residenz Orchestra plays famous Baroque-era churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlin’s most spectacular works by candlelight, with musicians in period costumes - a Dinner: 18:00 architectural ensemble. Built by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821, unique opportunity to get a good idea of what it was like to Concert: 20:30 it was badly damaged in the war and only reopened as a attend a party in the 18th century. Guests can combine the tel. 030-258 10 35-0 concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester plays concert with a tour of Charlottenburg castle or a trip on the at the venue.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU river Spree, and dinner amidst hundreds of candles.QB-3, www.concerts-berlin.com Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.konzerthaus. Spandauer Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg, MS Westend, de. Tickets €10-99. tel. +49 30 526 81 96 96, www.concerts-berlin.com. Din- ner 18:00, concert 20:30. Tickets €29-79.

BLUE MAN GROUP BERLINER RESIDENZ The (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing CONCERTS Thomas Otto © Photo: Peter Noreick audiences for years in their Bluemax Theatre. The visually and musically powerful show is suitable for foreigners as Enjoy classical concerts and a festive dinner in royal From 15 October until 18 February, the Magical it has little spoken German, and now has been thoroughly Q surroundings. Baroque-era culinary delicacies and musical Mystery Show is all about illusion. The red velvet revamped, with many new sketches and elements. E- M masterpieces are combined in the magical surroundings curtain raises to reveal Grand Masters of magic, who 4, Marlene Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte, S/U Potsdamer of the extravagant former summer residence of the make the impossible seem possible, creating magical Platz, tel. +49 1805 44 44, www.bluemangroup.de. Hohenzollern dynasty. The orchestra plays masterpieces and mysterious moments where nothing is as it seems. Shows Tue, Fri 21:00; Wed, Thu, Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun of the 17th and 18th centuries, by Bach, Händel, Mozart, Lead by magician Thomas Otto, the magicians from 18:00. Tickets from €69. Vivaldi and others. Concerts are held every Wednesday, around the world turn the Wintergarten theatre into a Friday and Saturday in October at 20:30 (except 17 Oct), dreamlike place of illusion. Join them on a journey into -PALAST and November (except 8, 28 Nov). The fi rst Christmas the world of the unexplained. No one does over-the-top better than the producers and Advent concert takes place on 30 Nov at 16:00. WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉQPotsdamer Straße long-legged dancers and acrobats of Friedrichstadtpalast. M This venue normally puts on the glitziest, biggest BERLINER RESIDENZ KONZERTE 96, , U Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 Q M QSpandauer Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat revues in town. F-3, Friedrichstraße 107, Mitte, U 30 25 81 03 50, www.concerts-berlin.com. 20:00, Sun 18:00. Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26 23 26, www.show- palace.eu. Tickets €18-106.

10 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 11 Culture & Events Culture & Events HINTERM HORIZONT FIRST WORLD WAR The musical based on the songs of German rock legend Udo Lindenberg is a hit with the locals, and using the free portable translator device (book in advance), international visitors can follow the spoken scenes too. ‘Behind the horizon’ is an East-West love story set in Roulette Berlin: a West German rock singer falls for an East Berlin Poker beauty, who spies on him for the in order to save her brother. Years later, in a reunited Germany, they piece Slotmachines together their history.QE-4, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 Black Jack (Stage Theater am ), MPotsdamer Platz, tel. +49 1805 44 44, www.stage-entertainment. de. Shows 19:00, Fri 20:00, Sat 15:30, 20:00, Sun 14:30. There are many ways to Mon closed. Tickets €38-97. spend a night in Berlin. Surgical instruments from a military hospital, Germany 1914 But spending an Evening © Stiftung Deutsches Historisches Museum, Photo: Sebastian TIPI AM KANZLERAMT at its Casino could be an Ahlers Continuing a tradition that started a century ago in unforgettable one. Berlin, the Tipi team wine, dine and entertain guests 19141918: THE FIRST WORLD WAR for an evening in their elegant year-round tent in Spielbank-berlin.de Until 30 November. Tiergarten park. Before the show starts, gourmet food +49-(0)30-255 99 0 Characterised as the “seminal catastrophe” of the is served. Then it’s over to the artists featured that night Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 20th century, nine million soldiers and almost Q 10785 Berlin to entertain the audience. E-3, Große Querallee, Open daily 11am - 5am six million civilians died in the First World War, Tiergarten, MU , tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50, the first industrialised, total war in history. It www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Shows 20:00, Sun 19:00. Guest must be 18 or over changed not only subsequent armed conflicts, Tickets €15-45. and show a valid ID card.. but also influenced political thought and action Please remember to for many years to come. The German Historical WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉ gamble Responsibly. Museum’s special exhibition offers a multifaceted One of Berlin’s famed variety theatres was revived here overview of the war as well as its prerequisites and as a dinner theater. Seated around tables, you’ll enjoy a consequences, and approaches this previously show with acrobats, magicians, clowns, jugglers and more. unknown escalation of violence from a broad perspective. It takes 14 salient places as points of Before the show, waiters take orders for meals which are FILM FESTIVALS departure, battlefields such as Verdun, Tannenberg EVENT TICKETS served during the break. New shows are put on several or Gallipoli, but also political-cultural centres like times per year.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten, Apart from the huge Berlinale fi lm festival in February, Petrograd and Berlin as well as occupied cities Tickets can be purchased at the venues, via hotel MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www. Berlin has over 40 smaller international fi lm festivals and regions, including and Galicia. All concierges, at ticket offi ces (also in major department wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun throughout the year, often focused on a country or theme. of the places point to overriding developments: stores) and online. 18:00. Tickets €25-60. 5-12 Oct: Latin American FF, Babylon, www.lakino- the modernisation of war technology with its EVENTIM An online booking service with event bln.com disastrous consequences for the people, the Q worldwide wartime economy, the global escalation tickets mailed or available for home printing. tel. +49 THEATRE, MUSIC & DANCE 16-19 Oct: Zebra Poetry FF, Babylon, www. 180 557 00 70, www.eventim.de. literaturwerkstatt.org of the fighting as well as the totalisation of the war, Berlin has dozens of venues for performances. There’s which not only affected the soldiers on the fronts, HEKTICKET Ticket shops and online sales (for home lots of great theatre, but most of it is German-language; 22-26 Oct: Porn FF, www.pornfi lmfestivalberlin.de but also mobilised the entire population. printing, pick-up or mailing). Reduced same-day tickets it’s getting better, with English plays or surtitles in some 4-9 Nov: East European Cinema FF, Cottbus, www. DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUMQUnter for shows and attractions are available after 14:00. Also theatres. fi lmfestivalcottbus.de M at Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 13, Mitte.QC-4, Harden- den Linden 2, Mitte, Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 M 29 Oct - 9 Nov: Première Brasil, HKW, www.hkw.de 30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open daily 10:00 - 18:00. bergstraße 29d, Charlottenburg, S/U Zoologis- Berlin is the world capital of contemporary dance; look for cher Garten, tel. +49 30 230 99 30, www.hekticket. shows by Sasha Waltz, perhaps the best choreographer 9–16 Nov: Kuki Children’s FF, 2 venues, www.kuki- de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. around. The Staatsballett Berlin is the main classic berlin.com dance company. Tanzraumberlin magazine (www. 11-16 Nov: Interfi lm Shorts FF, 6 venues, www. KOKA 36 Kreuzberg’s Konzertkasse has tickets in their tanzraumberlin.de), available at the venues, lists all dance interfi lm.de ASK THE CONCIERGE shop and online (German only), for mailing and pick- events. up.QH-4, Oranienstraße 29, Kreuzberg, MU Gör- 11-16 Nov: Afrikamera, Arsenal, www.afrikamera.de Berlin’s top hotels all have concierges that are there litzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 10 13 13, www.koka36. ENGLISH THEATRE BERLIN 1-9 Nov: Spanish FF, Babylon, www. to make the guest’s lives easier. They can inform you de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. berlinspanischesfi lmfest.com about current events, book tickets, make restaurant Berlin residents, whether native English speakers or not, come to this theatre for the edgy programming 26 Nov - 3 Dec: Russian Filmweek, 3 venues, www. reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your PAPAGENA Regular and reduced price tickets for Q on the little black box’s stage. F-5, Fidicinstraße 40, russische-fi lmwoche.de Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges can classical music, opera and theatre. Call for English-lan- M be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the lapels guage service.Qtel. +49 30 47 99 74 44, www.khs. Kreuzberg, U Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 691 28 Nov - 7 Dec: Around the World in 14 fi lms, of their jackets. papagena.de. 12 11, [email protected], www.etberlin.de. Tickets Babylon, www.14fi lms.de €14-18.

12 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 13 Culture & Events Culture & Events HALLE TANZBÜHNE DEUTSCHE OPER: A monumental school gym, used for excellent modern DALÍ EXHIBITION CINEMAS dance productions by the Toula Limnaios company.QG- CONCERTS AWAY 1, Eberswalder Straße 10-11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Foreign fi lm off erings in German cinemas are often FROM HOME Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 44 04 42 92, www.halle- dubbed so check www.critic.de/ov-movies-berlin or tanz-berlin.de. Tickets €15. look in listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled Berlin’s famous Deutsche Oper orchestra is fi lms; these are marked in with OmU or OmengU spending a few months away from their home HEBBEL AM UFER (HAU) (original version with German/English subtitles) and theatre due to renovation works – and they’re Three small theatres (the others at Stresemannstraße OF or OV (original version); DF means German version. making the most of their carpentry shop spaces 29 and Tempelhofer Ufer 10) perform experimental and other alternative locations. Programme theatre (often in English or mute) and dance.QF-4, ADRIA highlights for this season are: Hallesches Ufer 32, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, The fi lm Berlin, wie es war, black and white footage of old Berlin, in German, screens every Sunday at 11:30. 1 Oct: Dinorah Die Wallfahrt nach Ploermel tel. +49 30 259 00 40, www.hebbel-am-ufer.de. Q M Tickets €11-18. Schloßstraße 48, , S/U Rathaus Steglitz, (concert version) – Berliner Philharmonie; with Patrizia tel. +49 180 505 07 11, www.cineplex.de. Tickets Ciofi , Jana Kurucová; Etienne Dupuis, Philippe Talbot. © DaliBerlin.de €7,40-9,40. Conductor: Enrique Mazzola. KOOKABURRA COMEDY CLUB Laughing matters at this comedy club, which has With over 450 exhibits, the new museum and cultural alternating English-language stand-up comedy nights highlight ‘Dalí - The Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz’ off ers BABYLON MITTE 14 Oct: Ariadne auf Naxos (concert version) – Berliner the most complete overview of Dalí’s virtuous and exper- A 1920s fi lmhouse with a great program, but beware Philharmonie; with Anja Harteros, Daniela Sindram, every month: Kim Eustace on the fi rst Tuesday, and the interactive ComedySportz show on the second and fourth imental mastery in almost all art techniques, right here in of dubbed fi lms. The building itself is a example of New Susanne Elmark; Stefan Vinke, Markus Brück. Conductor: the heart of Berlin. As Dalí once said: “Come into my brain”. Objectivity. Occasionaly there are screenings of silent Ulf Schirmer. Tuesday. Also look for Karsten Kaie’s show “How to become Q a Berliner in one hour”.QG-2, Schönhauser Allee 184, In keeping with this spirit ’Surrealism for all’, visitors to Ber- fi lms accompanied by the 1929 organ. G-2, Rosa- M lin now have the chance to discover ‘their Dalí’. Luxemburg-Straße 30, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg- 17-19 Oct: Béjart Ballet Lausanne – Tempodrom; Prenzlauer Berg, U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 Platz, tel. +49 30 242 59 69, www.babylonberlin.de. soloist: Ronnita Miller, conductors: Donald Runnicles, / 30 48 62 31 86, www.comedyclub.de. Tickets €5-16. DALÍ - THE EXHIBITION AT POTSDAMER Tickets €7. James Feddeck. 17-19 Oct: Ce que l’amour me dit; 17- Shows Tue-Sun. PLATZQLeipziger Platz 7, Mitte, MPotsdamer 18 Oct: Le Sacre du Printemps ; 19 Oct: Bolero. Platz, tel. +49 700 32 54 23 75 46, www.daliberlin. QUATSCH COMEDY CLUB CENTRAL KINO de. Open 12:00-20:00, Sun & holidays 10:00-20:00. Art-house fi lms and mini fi lm fests take place in this 5 & 11 Nov: Roberto Devereux (concert version) – “Quatsch” is the delicious German word for nonsense, Admission €11, reduced €9. small, but comfy cinema at the very back of a scruff y Berliner Philharmonie; with Edita Gruberova, Veronica and there’s plenty of it in the shows held in the courtyard.QG-2, Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS Simeoni; Davide Luciano, Celso Albelo. Conductor: Friedrichstadtpalast theatre basement. Most are in German, Hackerscher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 99 73, www. Pietro Rizzo. but look out for special guests and the regular English- language “Strictly Stand Up” nights. Drinks and snacks like kino-central.de. Tickets €6,50, Tue, Wed €5,50. nachos and hot dogs are available.QF-3, Friedrichstr. 6,8,9,17,18,19 Nov: In Transit – Tischlerei; with M Alexandra Hutton, Christina Sidak, Elbenita Kajtazi; 107, Mitte, S/U Friedrichstrasse, tel. +49 1806 999 00 Events CINESTAR IMAX & ORIGINAL Gideon Poppe, Jörg Schörner, Carlton Ford, Alvaro 09 69, www.quatsch-comedy-club.de. Tickets €25-35. CineStar IMAX has blockbuster fi lms and documentaries Zambrano. Director: Eva-Maria Abelein. Shows Thu-Sun. in English on the biggest screen in town, featuring IMAX CLASSICAL MUSIC quality of projection and sound. The CineStar Original 29 Nov: Falstaff - with Martina Welschenbach, Elena RADIALSYSTEM V 5 Oct, 20:00 cinema has Germany’s widest range of Hollywood Tsallagova, Jana Kurucová; Markus Brück, John Chest. A fantastic theatre, dance and music venue in an old Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin and arthouse movies in their original English version. QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 4, Tiergarten (), Conductor: Stefan Solyom, Director: Christof Loy. pumping station along the Spree river. There’s a restaurant Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Haydn and Mahler M and café too.QH-4, Holzmarktstraße 33, Friedrichshain, PH S/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 06 64 00, M DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN, Bismarckstraße 35, tel. S Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 288 78 85 88, www. www.cinestar.de. Tickets €6-13. +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de. radialsystem.de. Tickets €5-41. 9 & 10 Oct, 20:30 Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, HACKESCHE HÖFE Mainly shows foreign fi lms in their original language. SCHAUBÜHNE Cameron Carpenter (organ) Q M Set inside a quirky former 1920s cinema, the politically Conductor: Giancarlo Guerrero; organ concerto by Terry G-2, Rosenthaler Straße 40, Mitte, S Hackescher DALÍ EXHIBITION DISCOUNT and socially engaged repertoire of this venerable Riley Markt, tel. +49 30 283 46 03, www.hackesche-hoefe. ensemble theatre ranges from classics to contemporary PH org. Tickets €8; Mon, Tue €6,50. The high-quality catalogue of the Dali Exhibition at plays, and regularly travels abroad, giving famed Potsdamer Platz has 44 pages of text about Dalí’s directors like Thomas Ostermeier, Falk Richter and 11 Oct, 20:00 SPUTNIK life and work, and details of the specific artworks Katie Mitchell and actors like Lars Eidinger and Nina Robert Leonardy (piano) Berlin’s highest cinema screens a lot of indie fi lms, in the exhibition, plus 40 detailed large-format Hoss the chance to shine abroad. Every month, several Works by Busoni, Schulhoff , Stravinsky and Schubert many in English, and sometimes very long ones. In illustrations. shows have English and/or French surtitles. There’s PH a back courtyard of a large complex, it may seem a bit dicey working your way to the theater, but it’s Until 30 November 2014, readers of Berlin In Your a good theatre café with drinks and simple meals too.QB-4, Kurfürstendamm 153, Charlottenburg, 12 Oct, 20:00 safe, small, and friendly. Bricks make up part of the Pocket can purchase the book for €14,95 instead of M furniture.QG-5, Hasenheide 54, Kreuzberg, MU €19,95 on presentation of this guidebook (for ticket- U Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 89 00 23, www. Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, schaubuehne.de. Tickets €7-47. Dorothea Röschmann (soprano) Südstern, tel. +49 30 694 11 47, www.sputnik-kino. holders of the exhibition only; may not be combined com. Tickets €5-6,5. with other off ers). Conductor: Marc Albrecht; Works by Ligeti, Berg and Mahler PH

14 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 15 Culture & Events Culture & Events 13 & 14 Oct, 20:00 8 Nov, 19:00 SUITABLE FOR INTERNATIONAL VISITORS Staatskapelle Berlin Berliner Philharmoniker, Ivo Kahánek (piano) Conductor: Daniel Barenboim; Works by Mozart and Conductor: Sir ; Works by Martinu and 25.11.2014 Widmann Beethoven Tempodrom PH PH 20:00 Uhr

14 Oct, 20:00 10 Nov, 20:00 Freiburger Barockorchester, Petra Müllejans Russisches Nationalorchester, Mischa Maisky bit.ly/wigawebbit.lylyy/wigawg eb #wigamagic#wigamg agig c (violin) (cello) Conductor: Gottfried von der Goltz; Works by Händel, Conductor: Mikhail Pletnev; Works by Shostakovitch and Vivaldi and Schmidt Tchaikovsky 09.10.2014 THE SHOW OF ILLUSIONS Tempodrom (Kl. Arena) PH PH 20:00 Uhr www.prknet.de 16-18 Oct, 20:00 12 Nov, 20:00 www.mariannefaithfull.org.uk Berliner Philharmoniker, Emanuel Ax (piano) Lang Lang (piano) Conductor: Andris Nelsons; Works by Mozart and Strauss Works by Mozart and Chopin PH PH

21 Oct, 20:00 13 Nov, 20:00 Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Alice Sara Ott Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Paul Lewis (piano) (piano) Conductor: Karel Mark Chichon; Works by Dvorák and Grieg Conductor: Marek Janowski; Works by Beethoven and PH Hartmann 20.11.2014 PH Tempodrom 15.10.2014 23-25 Oct, 20:00 20:00 Uhr Columbiahalle Berliner Philharmoniker 14 Nov, 20:00 20:00 Uhr Conductor: Daniele Gatti; Works by Wagner, Brahms, Haydn Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Janine presented by and Berg Jansen (violin) TICKETS: 030 / 479 974 77 | www.semmel.de NEW MAGICIANS PH Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Debussy, Chausson, NEW ILLUSIONS Ravel and Prokofi ev 26 Oct, 20:00 PH Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Alban 15 October 2014 – 15 February 2015 Gerhardt (cello) 17 Nov, 20:00 MARIANNE FAITHFULL Wed – Sat 20:00 · Sun 18:00 Conductor: Matthias Pintscher; Works by Wagner, Bartók Staatskapelle Berlin, Maria João Pires (piano) & URBAN DANCE Mo + Tue no performances and Pintscher Conductor: Paavo Järvi; Works by Messiaen, Mozart and (in November and December additorial performances) PH Schumann On 25 November, legend- Tickets from € 32* PH ary singer-songwriter and 29-31 Oct, 20:00 actress Marianne Faith- Berliner Philharmoniker 19 Nov, 20:00 full visits Berlin for her Conductor: Emmanuelle Haïm; Works by Händel Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin “50th Anniversary Tour” Our annual classic for the Festive Season PH Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Dukas, Mozart and concert at the Tempodrom. Stravinsky She recounts half a century 2 Nov, 20:00 PH of her successes with her Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin characteristic voice, play- Conductor: Kent Nagano; Works by Berg and Bruckner 26 Nov, 20:00 ing hits like Broken English, Vagabond Ways and As PH Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin Tears Go By. Conductor: Joshua Weilerstein; Works by Shostakovitch, Urban Dance fans can look forward to mesmerising 5 Nov, 20:00 Schumann and Tchaikovsky performances of Popping, Hip Hop, House, Locking, Mitsuko Uchida (piano) PH BBoying and Voguing styles during the Snipes Funkin’ The Variety Show by children for the whole family Works by Franz and Beethoven Stylez international Urban Dance Battle, from 20-22 23, 30 Nov., 7, 14, 21, 22, 23, 28 + 29 Dec. 2014 PH 27-29 Nov, 20:00 November. The preselec- Tickets from € 12* Berliner Philharmoniker, Martha Argerich (piano) tion, followed by parties, 7 Nov, 20:00 Conductor: Riccardo Chailly; Works by Mendelssohn In cooperation with CABUWAZI and the Berliner Märchentage take place at the Ritter Berliner Philharmoniker Bartholdy, Schumann and Rachmaninov Butzke club in Kreuzberg, Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Kurtág, Lachenmann PH while the World Team Bat- Potsdamer Straße 96, D-10785 Berlin Tiergarten and Beethoven Ticket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433 or just print your tle is at Tempodrom. For tickets at home: www.wintergarten-berlin.de PH more details and tickets *Prices plus advance booking fee and € 2 system fee/ticket see www.semmel.de.

16 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 17 Culture & Events Culture & Events Until 30 Nov CONCERTS KNUTSCHFLECK 1914–1918: The First World War WHERE TO WATCH SPORTS 9 Oct, 20:00 Berlin Burlesque and more. Nine million soldiers and almost six million civilians died KILKENNY IRISH PUB Elvis Costello (singer/songwriter) Opening in October. See p. 24 in the First World War, the fi rst industrialised, total war in AD history. It changed not only subsequent armed confl icts, Fun & football, a drink or two and a bite to eat go hand for more information. but also infl uenced political thought and action for many in hand. And if that’s what you’re after, the Kilkenny Irish 9 Oct, 20:00 years to come. This special exhibition off ers a multifaceted Pub is where you fi nd it. Watch all major events, Jan Delay & Disko No. 1 (Funk) overview of the war as well as its prerequisites and Champions League, Premier League, Formula One etc. MS 19 Nov, 20:00 consequences, and approaches this previously unknown on large screens, together with locals and tourists from all over the world.QG-3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Linkin Park (Rock) escalation of violence from a broad perspective. M 9 Oct, 19:30 O2 DH Mitte, S Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84, [email protected], www.kilkenny-pub.de. Open Lady Gaga (Pop) EGBW O2 Until 31 Dec from 12:00. EXHIBITIONS Moshe Gershuni – No Father No Mother 15 Oct, 20:00 16 Oct - 16 Nov Moshe Gershuni (Tel Aviv, 1936) is one of the most Lindsey Stirling (Classical/Pop) Month of Photography Berlin important Israeli artists. His existential work - an ongoing CH With 125 exhibitions across the city, Berlin’s biannual Month project over more than forty years - is uncompromising, of Photography is dedicated to ‘Upheavals and utopia: and his paintings, drawings and sculptures leave plenty 27 Oct, 19:30 the other Europe’, with themes like borders, immigration of room for associations. Gershuni works horizontally. He (Pop) and refugees taking centre stage. Young and old, classic covers the fl oor with paper and crawls across with his O2 and experimental photography can all be admired at the hands soaked in paint. participating venues; the main exhibition in the Martin- NA 5 Nov, 20:00 Gropius-Bau (until 14 Dec, admission free) shows the Lykke Li (Pop) contemporary photography exhibition “MemoryLab: The Until 4 January 2015 AD Sentimental Turn”. For more details see www.mdf-berlin.de. Die Welt der Wikinger – The World of the Vikings MG & other venues The new exhibition at the Martin-Gropius-Bau uses 5 Nov, 20:00 spectacular archaeological fi nds, including a huge ship, to Lenny Kravitz (Rock/Soul) 1 & 2 November illustrate the history of the Vikings in northern Europe and O2 Museumsfest Deutsches Historisches Museum beyond. This year’s museum festival at the German Historical MG Museum is all about the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall; visitors can learn more about the event, note THE HARP down their personal memories and watch fi lms; admission VENUE LIST BERLIN Just one minute off Kurfürstendamm, The Harp is a to the exhibitions is free. haven for music and sports fans alike. Two bars, a cozy ambience, four large TVs and two big screens provide DH AD – ADMIRALSPALAST, Friedrichstraße 101-102, the setting for a great night out, or an afternoon full tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de. of excitement and entertainment while following international football, rugby and other sports, or CH – COLUMBIA-HALLE, Columbiadamm 13-21, Q WEST:BERLIN EXHIBITION tel. +49 30 698 09 80, www.columbiahalle.de. playing a round of darts. B-4, Giesebrechtstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 To anyone who realises how crazy Berlin’s history DH – DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM, 22 32 87 35, [email protected], www.harp-pub.de. is, it’s not surprising at all that the new West:Berlin Unter den Linden 2, tel. +49 30 20 30 44 44, www.dhm.de. Mon-Fri from 13:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. EBW exhibition is located in an elegant palace in the former MG – MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU, Niederkirchnerstraße East Berlin that itself was dismantled and stored in 7, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de. West Berlin for many years. For half a century, West Berlin was a heavily politicised and highly subsidised MS – MAX-SCHMELING-HALLE, Am Falkplatz, tel. ‘Island of Freedom’ marooned inside the GDR, and +49 30 44 30 45, www.max-schmeling-halle.de. 500 exhibits show the development of this half of the city, from post-war ruins via its function as a showcase NA – NEUE NATIONALGALERIE, Potsdamer of the western Allies, and from the years of decline Straße 50, tel. +49 30 266 26 51, www.neue- after the fall of the Wall in 1989 to its current revival. nationalgalerie.de. Photographs, art, objects, cars and an audio-salon with O2 – O2 WORLD, O2-Platz 1, tel. +49 30 20 60 70 88 the sounds of the half-city demonstrate why West for 99, www.o2world-berlin.de. many is still best. PH – PHILHARMONIE, Herbert-von-Karajan-Straße WEST:BERLIN, 14 Nov - 28 June. Open Tue-Sun 1, tel. +49 30 25 48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 12:00 - 20:00. Ephraim-Palais, G-3, Poststr. 16, tel. +49 30 24 00 21 62, www.west.berlin. RS – RADIALSYSTEM V, Holzmarktstraße 33, tel. Admission €7, fi rst Wednesday of the month free. +49 30 28 87 88 50

18 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 19 Mitte Mitte Between Mitte and Charlottenburg, the huge Tiergarten treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in broth) park began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in the Restaurants & Cafés and Schnitzel.QF-3, Tucholskystraße 48, Mitte, MU 1600s. Traffi c passes through it, doing a dosey-doe around Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84, www. the Siegessäule victory column. The Straße des 17. Juni schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. leads east to the Brandenburger Tor; just south of it are the GERMAN TUNBS state museums of the and the Potsdamer Platz ALPENSTUECK district with its soaring corporate buildings. Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad, ZILLE-STUBE Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the The name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille, Getting there dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with whose illustrations line the above upholstered Arrivals by plane and train usually end up at Hauptbahnhof a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and banquettes and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu station, central for the city but not really close to anything. Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing are typical Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade S-Bahn trains from the top level link to the east and west the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the (beaf-stuff ed cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot of the city, while the fancy new two-stop U55 U-Bahn line palate.QF-2, Gartenstraße 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG-3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU takes sightseers straight to Brandenburger Tor. tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestube- 18:00 - 01:00. €€. TUGBS .de. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€. E Pocket Walk Start off at Brandenburger Tor and the Reichstag before JOSEPH ROTH DIELE heading south past the memorial and Potsdamer A wonderfully cosy dark brown bar owned by the same ASIAN Platz to the Topographie des Terrors exhibition and the people who run the Ave Maria religious shop, right next K A M A L A Since reunifi cation, the old city centre district Mitte adjacent stretch of Berlin Wall. Follow Zimmerstraße for door to Joseph. It’s named after a prolifi c Jewish writer Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere, (meaning ‘middle’) has rightly snatched back the title of the Stasi Exhibition and . Walk north whose quotes decorate the walls and who lived nearby in where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the along Friedrichstraße and turn right at Mohrenstraße for the 1920s when this street was the beating heart of Berlin’s placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai soup Unter den Linden are baroque and classical Gendarmenmarkt square, before ambling to Unter den nightlife. A nicely-priced lunch and delicious Flammkuchen is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the curries are monuments to Prussian culture. The architecturally Linden via Bebelplatz. Walk east past the Neue Wache and pies are served, and it’s a great place for a beer or wine rich and buttery.QF-3, Oranienburger Straße 69, Mitte, humbler but more neighbourhood-like Scheunenviertel Berliner Dom, turn left into Spandauer Straße, and pass after a show at the Wintergarten Varieté, opposite.QE-4, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97, www. area allows the casually chic to saunter from courtyard through Hackescher Markt station. Visit the Hackesche Potsdamer Straße 75, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - gallery to sidewalk café. Only traces are left of the Jewish Höfe complex before walking down Oranienburger Straße tel. +49 30 26 36 98 84, www.joseph-roth-diele.de. Open 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. €€. AB community that lived here from the late 17th century, for the Neue Synagoge. You can catch the S-Bahn from here 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. TENGBSW welcomed by the Great Elector Friedrich Wilhelm. back to Brandenburger Tor. MONSIEUR VUONG

ke MUTTER HOPPE Hanoi and Saigon have landed in a chic little red Vietnamese h st n s hde er HS U endorff- e LotLoLott St e S horststr. tr. rstr. ott s St S r r. chwarzer Ga Bergstr. nicker tttum-tuum n- r. aa tr. W er m u rb e Weg Naturkundemuseum str. rtenstr. a rü u Head down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the restaurant in Mitte. There are only fi ve dishes and two daily E F Bo GStr.StS str. h c Chausseestr. Schröder- tr n ke la r e r str. ö r z s hhl i U Rosenthaler PlatzPl h S n Nikolaiviertel district. You’ll fi nd the space divided into cosy, specials, but they’re so delicious you’ll be ordering a second Schlegel- g Christine c t Novalis- st Torstr. r. re Döberitzer Torstr. S P Str. Platz vor dem Tieckstr. r. Gormannstr. low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and bowl of rice to soak up the leftover sauce. After your gói str. Linienstr.Joachim- Ro R Neuen Tor . Straßburger Hamburger r os Prenz 2 H Koppen- str. s t Torstr. an Kl. e historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy bo, try some jasmin or artichoke tea. You’ll have to fi ght ns a- n platzGroße Hamburger Str. n Invalidenstr. o Torstr. n str. v t Rücker- er Str. h hauser sc Linienstr. Mul meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen off ers the über-cool crowds for a table as Mr. Vuong doesn’t take he a ma ac Str. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz Hauptbahnhof Luisenstr. r Steinstr. ks L Str. Gipsstr. l tr

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f Str. S AIGNER r f B Ka d - Planck- Bundestag am Spandauer U Alexanderplatz m Friedrichstr. U Museums Karl- Liebknecht- Jac RESTAURATION 1840 One of Berlin’s best places to eat, Aigner is truly international, zleramt U S - insel Fernsehturm ob amm Sc uerd er str. r. A Located in a vaulted space under the S-Bahn tracks, this as its name, concept and all the old furnishings originate Paul- Löbe- Allee hiffba uf Georgen-Friedrichstr. Bodestr. t l Ebertstr. g S e l ta 3 hs r x eic Rathausstr. a rra R str. Dorotheenstr. e traditional Berlin restaurant designed to recall the golden from a famous Viennese café that closed in the 1980s. Str. n L n eral Reichstag Glinka- Dom u it d Rotes r t G e e ga str. str. n r 1920s serves regionally sourced international cuisine, 1840 Master chef Herbert Beltle and his team serve award- MITTE Rathaus s Ma Dorotheenstr. Mittel- s Scheidemannstr. W t Gr. Querallee r t Klosterstr. . r . i Oberwall l creations, including local favourites such as Sülze (cold winning dishes with ingredients sourced fresh from the h Brandenburger UnterCharlotten den Linden Schloß- Nikolaiviertel Pariser e Friedrichstr. Bebel- Rathausstr. U Voltairestr. l Q M Tor ms Unter den Linden platz Pl. platz Sch knuckle), Buletten (meatballs) and Currywurst sausage. market. F-3, Französische Straße 25, Mitte, U t S Breite Str. S r t U . Werder- ral Juni Behrenstr. str. auer Str. U There are good seasonal wines, and the bar staff can Französiche Straße, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, www. Tiergartentunnel Brandenburger Tor - Str. Oberwall er Behrenstr. Kurstr. Rolanduf H Q G.- Französische Brüderstr. Jannowitzbrücke shake up a great cocktail. G-3, Am Zwirngraben 8-10, aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€€. Französische Str. U Spr Glinkastr. ee Mauerstr. Jägerstr. Mühlendamm M TUGBSW Holocaust str. str. S Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 24 72 74 01, post@ Gendarmen- Fischerinsel Jäger- . Memorial r t Kolmar- marktMarkgrafen Taubenstr. ea Site Wilhelmstr. s berlin-1840.de, www.berlin-1840.de. Open from 10:00. llee Ebertstr. Tauben- Stadtmitte U Hausvogteiplatz Wallstr. n Nieder-Kurstr. e EGBW str. wallstr. U Runge- k str. str. Mohren- c BORCHARDT Str. U Mohrenstr. str. str. ü U Märkisches Museum r . Roßstr. Gertrauden- str Neue B Borchardt didn’t have to invest much to make a good Lennéstr. Kronenstr. - ll kobst . Mohrenstr. Spittelmarkt U Wa Ja r. Potsdamer Platz Voßstr. S ue ergartenstr e Ne Köpen SCHWARZWALDSTUBEN fi rst impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the Ti Leipziger Str. yde r. hstr. Philharmonie S Friedrich- lst st ic Leipziger Mauerstr. r. ob Heinrich-Heine-Str. U

str. Bambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest building’s original tile fl oors whisper class and luxury. The Scharoun- Potsdamer Leipziger Str. Krausenstr. ak Annenstr. Platz Ko J Schmidstr. Str. Platz mm Neue lte stsstr. amer U Dalí Museum Schützenstr. A themed Schwarzwaldstuben, which has a friendly money and creative energy goes into the kitchen, which d E anda Grünstr. 4 s ic Alte Sebast ela t Potsdamer Platz -Springer-Str. n H h . anns- o Str. Checkpoint 0te r 500ngel ine-Str. 1000 m atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads mounted on comes up with a diff erent menu each day to keep its ho t nnddstrd Potsdamer Zimmerstr. n t . P Charlie s S . Axel - ost A r mer r t n Ei -He n Marlene- n den chnerstr. T r S ia n the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. Regional regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans, a a r Niederkir h e tr. St hk Str 20 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 21 Mitte Mitte -MOSKAU Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station - CAFÉS BACK TO SCHOOL on the line between Paris and - have wondered BARCOMI’S DELI about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly Barcomi’s is well known for its house-roasted coff ee and The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district positioned between new government offi ces and hotels. luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake is not just a place for trying German cuisine. It’s the Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been serving window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon watering hole for adult students from all around the up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years now. meringue cake, devil’s food cake, pecan pie and other world who are learning German at the GLS language Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb crust, heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly school, in the same complex. They’re greatly helped by tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays, there’s a cream cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood lunch menu as well.QE-3, Alt- 141, Tiergarten, are also salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques. MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www. Kaff eerösterei outlet (Bergmannstraße 21) has fresh coff ee. Q Q M DIE SCHULE Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00-24:00, Sat, F-5, Sophienstraße 21, Mitte, S Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de. Sun 18:00 - 24:00. €€€. A tel. +49 30 28 59 83 63, [email protected], www.

barcomis.de. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €. GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89 TGBS INDIAN 27, www.gls-berlin.de. AAPKA DIGITAL EATERY Located on a pretty street corner near Zionskirchplatz, Just a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the SOPHIENECK Aapka off ers healthy vegetarian, curry and grill dishes. You historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsoft’s very A favourite of locals and tourists alike, Sophieneck is one of Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00 can drop by for the lunch menu and on Sunday join the fi rst café showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy the most charming cafés in Mitte. Located near Hackescher Mon-Sun from 18:00 young Prenzl’ Berg crowd for a relaxed brunch - or drop by spot to recharge. Browse the small but excellent Markt since the revamp of the district in 1984, it has resisted later for cocktails.QG-2, Kastanienallee 50, Prenzlauer selection of pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the trendifi cation, staying true to its warm mishmash decor M Restaurant PARIS-MOSKAU Berg, U Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 04 94, counter (€8,90), or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge of art nouveau and poster art. The menu off ers delicious www.aapka.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. your electronic devices or use the free wifi . Best of all Central European fare, accompanied by an international Alt-Moabit 141 €€. B are the digital toys that allow you to go online, try out wine list.QG-2/3, Große Hamburger Straße 37, Mitte, tel. 394 20 81 Microsoft products or play Xbox games. To celebrate the MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 283 40 65, www. [email protected] first anniversary of Microsoft Berlin, the Digital Eatery offers sophieneck-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 www.paris-moskau.de INTERNATIONAL a 20% discount on the lunch menu in November; simply - 02:00. NOLA’S AM WEINBERG mention “Berlin In Your Pocket discount”.QF-3, Unter This hip restaurant overlooks a sloping park. The den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. +49 30 39 09 70, www. the beef dishes here are delectable.QF-3, Französische predominantly Swiss menu lends itself to the digitaleatery.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Nightlife Straße 47, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 terrace, which is perfect for pretending to be in the Sun 12:00 - 18:00. W 81 88 62 62, www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from mountain air of St. Moritz. Breakfast is served until 11:00. €€€. GB 16:00 and you can order meals until midnight.QG-2, SANKT OBERHOLZ BARS Veteranenstraße 9, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, A large two-fl oor café overlooking the busy street crossing. AUFSTURZ FACIL tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www.nola.de. Open 10:00 - Something of a public workspace for IT entrepreneurs from The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt At the Mandala Hotel’s Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant, 01:00. €€. TUGBS the surrounding Silicon Allee internet startups, it’s the ideal lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly light fare place to crack open a Mac and get some work done using done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens using only fresh, local products direct from the market. REINHARD’S the free wifi and electricity plugs. Or just come for the of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak The menu changes daily and has an emphasis on tasty Reinhard’s friendly staff can whisk a coff ee to your table coff ee, bagels, muffi ns and New York cheesecake.QG-2, beer to really kick off your night. Prices are reasonable vegetables and exotic herbs. Facil’s design is a post-modern, in no time, or if you’re here for the food, one of the light Rosenthaler Straße 72a, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, and the place looks good, with changing modern art glass-box Asian pavilion with a large central skylight that meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel, tel. +49 30 24 08 55 86, www.sanktoberholz.de. Open exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger retracts.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 3, Tiergarten, MS/U and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG-3, 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00, Sun Straße haunt.QF-3, Oranienburger Straße 67, Mitte, Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 12 34, www.facil.de. Poststraße 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 09:00 - 24:00. GW MS Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07, Open . Closed Sat, Sun Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. 52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€-€€€. [email protected], www.aufsturz.de. Open from Closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. UGBW h TGBS 12:00. EB

FISCHERS FRITZ TRAUBE ESCHSCHLORAQUE RÜMSCHRÜMP The restaurant’s name comes from a tongue-twister and In an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolhoff , ‘The An island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher the light, fi sh-focused menu is for a very refi ned palate. Grape’ serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the Michelin stars range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: cross- can be found hidden at the dark end of a graffi tied that appear none too oft in Germany. The German chef fi rst over food from , Alsace, Switzerland courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from trained in Dijon and has since pleased gourmands such as and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes the crumbling walls, aff ordable beers and cocktails, a stage, those at The Dorchester in London and the Sultan of Brunei or compose their own menus, with or without wines. plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters intent on (as a private chef). The dining room has light woods, deep The two-course set lunch menu is great value.QF-2, having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor cinema in carpets and a fi replace.QF-3, Charlottenstraße 49, Mitte, Reinhardtstraße 33, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. the back yard shows foreign fi lms in original version.QG- MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www. +49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:00 3, Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, fi schersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00; 18:30-23:00. - 15:00, 18:00-23:45, Sat 18:00 - 23:45. Closed Sun. €€€. [email protected], www.eschschloraque.de. PAG hh TGB ENBW €€€€. Digital Eatery Open 14:00 - open end Open from 14:00.

22 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 23 Mitte Mitte CASINO

SPIELBANK BERLIN The casino at Potsdamer Platz has French roulette, American roulette, baccarat, poker, blackjack, Sic Bo, bingo roulette and slot machines. Upstairs, the restaurant and Baccara Bar serves drinks and food from the a la carte menu. Newcomers to the game can book a tour including game instructions.QE-4, Marlene- Dietrich-Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 59 90, www.spielbank-berlin.de. Open Soda Club 11:00 - 05:00. Admission €2,50. Minimum age is 18, ID required; dress code is smart casual. Sightseeing Soda REINGOLD A lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with LANDMARKS an oversize drawing of Thomas Mann’s forlorn off spring, BRANDENBURGER TOR Klaus and Erika, and leather and velvet seating. Though Berlin’s landmark monument, built by Carl Langhans Club it often has a DJ, no one dances here. It’s a setting for in 1792, is the last remaining of 14 city gates. Nike, the making stationary moves on your date, or your tapas.QF- goddess of victory, drives the four-horsepower chariot 2, Novalisstraße 11, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. atop the gate. German armies used to begin their parades +49 30 28 38 76 76, [email protected], www.reingold.de. here, the fascists spoiled the gate by staging their torch- Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, lit marches through it, the war badly damaged it, and House - R´n´B - Soul Sun Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB then the Wall essentially bricked the patched-up gate in Danceclassics - electro for decades. Berliners celebrated the Wall’s fall in 1989 by standing on it in front of the gate, and after renovations the KulturBrauerei CLUBS gate is the proud focus point of the renewed square again. KAFFEE BURGER QF-3, , Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor. The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood on Kristallnacht on November 9, 1938, and then through NEW decades of the alternative scene’s smoke and its stuck-in-the- GENDARMENMARKT Allied bombs. Documents and photographs remember the KNUTSCHFLECK Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir Kaminer’s Twin cathedrals-turned-museums (dating to the early thriving Jewish community of the neighbourhood, many of Opening in October, the ‘hickey’ is Berlin’s newest wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings like poetry 1700s), the Konzerthaus (from 1818, by Carl Langhans) whom worshipped here in what was the largest synagogue Burlesque-style bar, located on Alexanderplatz opposite slams and jams start evenings that end with DJs spinning and a row of luxury hotels make up this classic square. The in Germany. A subtle but eff ective sound installation adds the Park Inn hotel. Run by a group of local ladies, this is a anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.QG-2, Torstraße name stems from the mid-1700s when military regiments to the experience.QF-3, Oranienburger Straße 28-30, café, Biergarten, restaurant, cocktail bar and show theatre 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 28 04 64 were stationed here.QF-3, Markgrafenstraße, Mitte, MU Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00, in one. Expect a programme of events held on the stage, 95, www.kaff eeburger.de. Open from 21:00. E Französische Straße. www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open Sun, Mon 10:00- including performances inspired by Coyote Ugly, Rocky 20:00, Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00; Mar & Oct Horror Picture Show, Pulp Fiction, Moulin Rouge and WEEK-END CLUB NEUE SYNAGOGE until 14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu until 18:00. Sat more. There’s also Berlinerisch food, beer and cakes, A club, bar, gallery and lounge set on the 12th fl oor of the The gilded cupola of the is one of the most closed. Admission €3,50/3. and a selection of 150 cocktails that fl uctuate in price as beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance demand changes.QG-3, Alexanderstr. 3, Mitte, MS/U agency specialising in saying ‘no’) on the corner of Otto- the restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from NIKOLAIVIERTEL Alexanderplatz, www.knutschfl eck-berlin.com. Braun-Straße.QG-3, Alexanderplatz 5, Mitte, MS/U 1866, with preserved evidence of its destruction, fi rst Berlin’s tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only Alexanderplatz, www.week-end-berlin.de. Open Thu- truly medieval-looking building today is the Nikolaikirche. MEIN HAUS AM SEE Sat 23:00-04:00. The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the It’s all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the entire quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlin’s 750th birthday ‘My Lake House’ makes it very easy with its large slope of in the area in which the fi shermen’s settlement fi rst began. seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture PUBS No one was trying to outdo Walt Disney here, and many lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering KILKENNY IRISH PUB of the buildings have the simple, concrete facades that locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7, The three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn the GDR government could aff ord. The small shops in the it’s a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time. On station off er more than enough space for natives and area mostly deal in toys and souvenirs and tourists gladly the menu are drinks, exotic coff ee varieties and chilli hot tourists to eat homemade food, meet and mingle, party fi ll the sunny tables at the restaurants that face the river. choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers, and follow live sports events. Large TVs and screens make On Rathausstraße, there’s a row of restaurants that fl aunt pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music.QG- sure that you won’t miss a single goal. Irish and German old-fashioned Berlin cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt 2, Brunnenstraße 197, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, beer, whiskey and other cold beverages fl ow freely.QG-3, historic buildings in the area date to the 1700s, such as the tel. +49 30 27 59 08 73, [email protected], Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, Ephraim-Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de. Open 24 hours tel. +49 30 283 20 84, [email protected], www. exhibits related to Berlin.QG-3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte, TUENGBSW EGBW M Open 24/7. €. kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. Kilkenny Irish Pub U Klosterstraße, www.stadtmuseum.de.

24 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 25 Mitte Mitte

Schützenstr. 70 | Berlin-Mitte Anfahrt | Directions www.inyourpocket.com CHURCHES (Nähe Checkpoint Charlie) (Kochstr. | Checkpoint Charlie) BERLINER DOM www.currywurstmuseum.com U6 / (Stadtmitte) The fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating from 1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss were POTSDAMER PLATZ still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime Once a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving demolished the castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The climb up war, and suff ered again when most remaining buildings to the dome’s rim is forgiving, with broad staircases, side were demolished to make way for the Wall’s death strip. exhibit rooms and good views.QG-3, Am , Hotel and offi ce skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36, EINE AUSSTELLUNG ZUM ANFASSEN. (AUS)PROBIEREN. MITMACHEN. to the city, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt. www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - TOUCHING. TESTING. TAKE PART. The most popular public space and architectural attraction 20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission €7/4. is the Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-like roof, best viewed at night for its impressive lighting. DEUTSCHER DOM The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds The baroque ‘German Church’ from 1701 was completed MEMORIALS ONE YEAR architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged FÜHRERBUNKER Arkaden shopping mall.QE/F-4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz. by fi re in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s. One lonely signpost mark the site where Hitler committed MICROSOFT BERLIN Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life, REICHSTAG exhibition about the development of parliamentarian Hitler lived roughly eight meters below ground in an The name together with its monumental size make most democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so tragically air-raid shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced people associate Germany’s neoclassical parliamentary in the last century. Be sure to see the views from the windows concrete ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached building with the Nazis, but they have little history here. After and the impressive building models on the top fl oor. Free by walking to the end of In den Ministergärten, off hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was set on fi re tours in English are possible throughout the day; no booking Ebertstraße. A parking area surrounded by a pre- just one month after Hitler was appointed chancellor in is required for individual visitors.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt fabricated apartment complex covers the location, which January 1933. It was a conference centre in the years during 1, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www. was entirely sealed off during the complex’s construction which it abutted the Wall, while later artist Christo famously bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/ausstellungen/ in 1988-89. The bunker was once accessed through the wrapped it in cloth. It was used as parliament again after a wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Festsaal (ballroom) behind the Reichskanzler-Palais on reunited German government returned to Berlin in 1999. Wilhelmstraße.QF-3, In den Ministergärten, Mitte, Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps FRANZÖSISCHER DOM MS/U Potsdamer Platz. the most public federal building in the world through its The northernmost domed tower in the Gendermenmarkt’s The first publicly accessible Microsoft Center in the world glass dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting grand architectural triptych dates back to 1785, and MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS opened on Berlin’s Unter den Linden boulevard a year the building’s history circle the rim above the parliament similarly to its counterpart was badly damaged in the OF EUROPE ago, on 7 November 2013. The historical 1902 Carlton chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome, war. It now has regular concerts in the simple baroque This bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness Hotel building with its great architectural details (try an engineering feat even more fascinating than the Friedrichstadtkirche church to the rear. Enter from the surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are to spot the cats and mice around the side door) is the panoramic view from the top. It’s best to book an entry other side for the Huguenot museum (in German and estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site most plugged-in building in the street. The Digital Eatery time to the dome or for the 90-minute guided tour of French only), dedicated to the thousands of French serves as Germany’s national memorial to those victims. café on the ground floor (see the review elsewhere in the building in advance online; otherwise queue up protestants who moved to Berlin in the 17th century. The design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a this guide) has more than just good food and drinks – for remaining places at the visitor centre just across the Yet another entrance leads to the viewing balcony at 40 fi eld of 2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height, visitors can use the free wifi, recharge their devices and road. Photo ID is required.QF-3, Platz der Republik 1, metres above street level, with great views all around. creating an undulating landscape that fi lls two city blocks. M Q M try out a range of Microsoft products, both hardware Tiergarten, U Bundestag, www.bundestag.de/ F-3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, U Stadtmitte, tel. The memorial has an undergound information centre and software, with staff at hand to answer questions. htdocs_e/visits. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked rooftop +49 30 20 64 99 22, www.franzoesischer-dom.de. Open which is not suitable for children.QF-3, Cora-Berliner- M The atrium behind the café is used for meetings, access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30, 12:00-17:00, viewing balcony 10:00-19:00, closed Mon. Straße 1, Mitte, S/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 26 performances and parties, while upstairs corporate 12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free. Admission €2/1, viewing balcony €2.50/1. 39 43 36, [email protected], www. clients are wowed in the meeting room with 360° video stiftung-denkmal.de. Information centre open 10:00- walls. Microsoft Berlin also has offices and a ‘Microsoft 20:00, Oct-Mar 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission Ventures Accelerator’ for start-ups in the building. free. To celebrate their birthday, In Your Pocket readers get a EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR 20% discount on the price of lunch at the Digital Eatery MUSEUMS café in the month of November, simply by mentioning Checkpoint Charlie BLACK BOX COLD WAR “Berlin In Your Pocket discount” at the cash desk. There’s Friedrichstraße 47 / corner Zimmerstraße | 10117 Berlin-Mitte The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of a fresh selection of pasta and meat dishes prepared Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links daily; see www.digitaleatery.de for the menu of the day. between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban Visitors’ service MICROSOFT BERLIN [email protected] missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and Q More information www.zentrum-kalter-krieg.de texts highlights the main events that took place here.QF- Unter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. +49 30 39 09 70, 4, Friedrichstraße 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35 71, info@ www.microsoft-berlin.de. Café open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. HERE, CONTEMPORARY HISTORY COMES ALIVE bfgg.de, www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €5/3,50.

26 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 27 Mitte Mitte DEUTSCHES CURRYWURST MUSEUM 111 & 119, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467 MUSEUMSINSEL According to the myth, currywurst is Berlin’s very own fast- 98 66 66, infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, www. food creation. A spicy sausage snack that fi rst became popular berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:30-19:00, The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic in the late 1940s, these days currywurst can be found at train Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor exhibition buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree off ers stations and street corners across the city. This quirky museum open 24hrs). Admission free. the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of explains the colourful history of this culinary creation. There’s a impressive collections of art, history and ethnology, shop with sausage accessories and you can taste currywurst GEMÄLDEGALERIE covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as too.QF-4, Schützenstraße 70, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. Berlin’s largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works spanning well as their cross-overs into modernity. +49 30 88 71 86 47, www.currywurstmuseum.com. Open the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters include Dürer, 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €11/8,50, Mon 20% less. Cranach the Elder, and Holbein; the Italians are represented by Cézanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann Botticelli, Titian, Raphael. The Dutch rooms are especially good DAIMLER CONTEMPORARY BERLIN with a Vermeer and the world’s largest Rembrandt collection. are some of the artists whose works hang around Q M this museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like Inside the Haus Huth, the last remaining pre-war building E-4, Matthäikirchplatz 8, Tiergarten, S/U Potsdamer structure itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by on Potsdamer Platz, selected works from the Daimler Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, [email protected], a beautifully battered colonnade.QG-3, Bodestraße company’s art collection is presented in four well-curated www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 exhibitions per year. The collection has mainly abstract Closed Mon. Admission €8/€4. 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu artworks from the 20th century until now, and a few of the International museum 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. larger sculptures are on permanent display in the streets around the museum.QE-4, Alte Potsdamer Straße 5, Berlin’s wonderful modern art museum is situated in a Tiergarten, tel. +49 30 25 94 14 20, www.sammlung. converted train station. It’s well worth a visit by those curious This neoclassic building by Prussia’s star architect daimler.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Admission free. about the expressiveness of a sculpture made of animal fat Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art (Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers fi xated by bars of neon collection of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical DALÍ - THE EXHIBITION AT POTSDAMER PLATZ lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol and Marcel Duchamp are The Spanish master of surreal, Salvador Dalí, left a rich the other familiar stars of this post-1960s collection.QE-2, antiquities were the focus, and today the museum M uses pottery and sculptures to take you on a well- heritage of amazing artworks when he went to molten- Invalidenstraße 50-51, Mitte, S/U Hauptbahnhof, presented tour through ancient Etruscan, Greek and watch land himself. Over 450 exhibits can be viewed at tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, [email protected], www. Roman history.QG-3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS this permanent exhibition near Postdamer Platz. See true hamburgerbahnhof.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www. genius and craftsmanship in the many paintings, sketches, 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. open daily: mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. books, fi lms, objects, and documents that are on show here. sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Q Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. English-language tours can be booked in advance. F-4, MUSEUM FÜR FILM UND FERNSEHEN (24th December closed) Leipziger Platz 7, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 (FILM AND TV MUSEUM) Potsdamer Platz 700 32 54 23 75 46, www.daliberlin.de. Open 12:00 - Hooray for Hollywood, but remember that some of the 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €11/9, tours €6. personalities that gave it glamour and style came from Built in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored entrance: Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre, directors in 2009, the ‘New Museum’ is new again and is full Leipziger Platz 7 of ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came out of a country Papyrus Collection are housed here, with spectacular The former imperial arsenal - a pretty, pink, early 18th century with a strong fi lm-making tradition. Photo stills, footage, set fi nds such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and building by the Spree - houses the impressive German designs and costumes provide glimpses of the familiar, and King Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection History Museum. The 7000 objects in the main building give exhibits on Leni Riefenstahl’s shooting of Olympia (1936) has fi nds from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval excellent insight into what makes Germany tick, and there and Nazi entertainment cq propaganda fi lms will impress are regularly changing exhibitions in the dazzling extension ‘seen-that’ fi lm buff s. The museum ends with special eff ects Germany. One room exhibits eleven rediscovered Q statues that were considered to be ‘degenerate art’ by architect I.M. Pei. You can rent an audio tour set for €3 and science fi ction. E-4, Potsdamer Straße 2 (Sony Q M or join the English-language highlights tour on Saturdays at Center), Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 by the Nazis. G-3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, S Q M Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www. 13:00. F-3, Unter den Linden 2, Mitte, S Hackescher 300 90 30, www.deutsche-kinemathek.de. Open 10:00 - smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon Admission €6/4,5. Admission €12/6. 18:00. Admission €8/4. Under 18 free. MUSEUM FÜR NATURKUNDE Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75** (0700DaliBerlin) GEDENKSTÄTTE BERLINER MAUER (NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM) Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de (BERLIN WALL MEMORIAL) All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection (**0,14 € /Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max The Pergamon museum is undergoing major 0,42 € /Min.)|*only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot renovations, with the north wing and the hall with The excellent national memorial site for the divided illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial be combinded with other offers. Valid until January, 31st 2015. the famous Pergamon Altar closed until 2019. Germany has a documentation centre covering the Berlin beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world Visitors can still see the market gate of Miletus, the Wall’s history in text, slides and dramatic fi lm footage. towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere there’s With over 450 exhibits from private amazing blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way An unscathed section of Wall runs along the street; walk the aardvarks, the early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites, collections this permanent exhibition from Babylon, and the museum of Islamic Art.QG-3, behind it to peer through a crack in the Hintermauer rear the most famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous Am Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, wall to see a preserved section of death strip as it looked Archaeopteryx lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla mastery in almost all art techniques, in the 1980s, complete with a patrol road, wires and a Bobby from the primates hall.QF-2, Invalidenstraße 43, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. M in Berlin’s lively city centre. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission watchtower. Nearby, the wooden Mitte, U Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85 €12/6. is built on the spot of a church demolished to make way 91, [email protected], www.naturkundemuseum- www.DaliBerlin.de for the border defences. Walk on towards for berlin.de. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. several more open-air exhibitions.QF-2, Bernauer Straße Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,50.

28 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 29 Mitte Mitte hilton.com, www.hilton.com. 591 rooms (singles Adlon’s marble staircase situated in the lobby, a round pool, PANORAMAPUNKT €145 - 345, doubles €145 - 345, suites €220 - 1145). an upmarket restaurant and suites with butler service.QF- Shopping Breakfast extra. PHARUFLEGKDC 3, Friedrichstraße 158-164, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, hhhhh tel. +49 30 202 70, [email protected], www. DEPARTMENT STORES westin.com/berlin. 358 rooms (25 singles €136 - 350, 273 ALEXA CENTRE HOTEL DE ROME doubles €136 - 375, suites €379 - 930, 15 junior suites A mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square, with Overlooking Bebelplatz, this top-class hotel occupies a €279 - 565, 1 presidential suite €986 - 1930). Breakfast fi ve fl oors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafés. There’s a magnifi cent former bank building from 1889. Wooden extra. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh massive kids’ area with a cinema and the LOXX model train panelling, marble and even shrapnel damage pervade exhibition.QG-3, Grunerstraße 20 (Alexanderplatz), the high-ceilinged lobby and rooms, and the bank’s vault Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00, is now a 20-metre pool.QF-3, Behrenstraße 37, Mitte, €150-200 www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 460 60 90, info. MANDALA lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:00- [email protected], www.hotelderome. Excellent rooms and apartments for both short and long- 19:00. LOXX open daily 10:00-19:00. com. 146 rooms (103 singles €395 - 495, 103 doubles term stays. The Potsdamer Platz hotel location has great €395 - 495, 43 suites €595 - 4100). views over Tiergarten park and hosts the top-notch Facil © Landesarchiv Berlin MALL OF BERLIN restaurant and Qiu lounge; the suites at Friedrichstraße 185- Opened in late September, this huge shopping MARRIOTT 190 are close to all the action.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 3, PANORAMAPUNKT M It takes just 20 seconds on Europe’s fastest elevator to mall sits on the spot where the famous Wertheim Ten fl oors of superb rooms and conference facilities Tiergarten, S/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00 get shot up to Berlin’s best viewpoint, on the 24th and department store dazzled Berliners 100 years ago. The overlooking the Platz. The lobby has a serenely spinning 00, [email protected], www.themandala. huge billion-euro mall has all the usual fashion and 3-tonne black granite globe, and the copper facade of one de. 157 rooms (157 suites €130 - 5800). Breakfast extra. 25th fl oor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans PHAUFLKDW hhhhh Kollhoff ’s magnifi cent 1930s-inspired building refers to electronics retailers, a food court and supermarkets in wall plays an unearthly light show. That plus a wellness New York’s skyscraping glory days but also resembles the basement. Centrepiece is a spectacular 23-metre centre and a classic Art Deco New York bar and grill make high covered piazza.QF-4, Leipziger Platz 12, Mitte, this one of Berlin’s fi nest hotels.QE-4, Inge-Beisheim- the Berlin bear, complete with a golden crown. On the M M top fl oors there’s a short fi lm and an exhibition about S/U Potsdamer Platz, www.mallofberlin.de. Open Platz 1, Mitte, S/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 22 €75-150 the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square, which 09:00 - 22:00. 00 00, www.marriott.com. 379 rooms (350 singles HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELS went from a world-class entertainment district to a Wall- €159 - 219, 350 doubles €159 - 219, 9 suites €350 - Two meticulously restored buildings with sparsely 1200, 80 executive room €199 - 259). Breakfast extra. furnished rooms with original wooded fl oors makes for divided wasteland and back again within a generation. PHAFLGKDC hhhhh The café and rooftop terrace off er great close-up views MARKETS a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence of Berlin’s highlights: Brandenburger Tor, the Holocaust KUNST UND NOSTALGIEMARKT (Invalidenstraße 122) has a garden with a lawn and goldfi sh Lining the way to the Pergamon Museum are canal-side RITZ-CARLTON pond for frolicking around in summer.QF-2, Tieckstraße memorial, Unter den Linden, the former Wall zone and M Tiergarten park.QE-4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten, stalls carrying crafts and souvenirs including red-and-green A gilt-edged hotel with superlative services, gourmet 12, Mitte, S Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 284 45 50, M Ampelmännchen products.QF-3, Am Kupfergraben, dining and fake marble Corinthian columns lining [email protected], www.honigmond.de. 24 rooms S/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www. M AG panoramapunkt.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Nov-Mar Mitte, S/U Friedrichstraße. Open Sat, Sun 10:00 - a sweeping staircase in the lobby. The classic dark (singles €95 - 155, doubles €125 - 225). 10:00-18:00. Admission €6,50/5, family ticket €15,50. 16:00 Open Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. wooden bar opens with a ceremony every evening at 18:00 and serves over 400 fi ne fruit brandies.QE/F-4, PARK INN BERLIN ALEXANDERPLATZ Potsdamer Platz 3, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, Towering 40 stories over Alexanderplatz, Germany’s third- NEUE NATIONALGALERIE Hotels tel. +49 30 33 77 77, [email protected], www. largest hotel is as central as it gets. Business rooms are all You’d think that the art world had gone to minimalist ritzcarlton.com. 302 rooms (singles €250 - 360, doubles renovated and stocked with a coff eemaker and ironing extremes when passing Mies van der Rohe’s empty glass €280 - 440, 40 suites €330 - 5000). Breakfast extra. board. By far the best choice for the direction-impaired. box of a museum; the 20th century treasures are all OVER €200 PTHARUFLGKDC hhhhh QG-3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, underground. The marvellous collection includes Otto Dix, ADLON KEMPINSKI tel. +49 30 238 90, [email protected], , Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky, Picasso and The reconstructed, historic Adlon hotel has views of WESTIN GRAND www.parkinn-berlin.com. 1012 rooms (318 singles Leger and many more modern artists.QE-4, Potsdamer the Brandenburger Tor and Under den Linden, unfussy Enviably well-located and used in GDR times for Party €89 - 125, 671 doubles €89 - 125, 23 suites €130 - 185). Straße 50, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 1920s-style rooms with cherry wood, black marble bigwigs, the Westin is classically furnished, with a copy of the Breakfast extra. POARFGKD hhhh 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - and rich fabrics, and the staff provides impeccable 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed service. Often voted the best hotel in Germany and even Mon. Admission €8/4. Temporary exhibitions extra. Europe, this is in fact the only place to sleep in Berlin. QF-2, Unter den Linden 77, Mitte, MU Unter den Linden, tel. +49 30 226 10, [email protected], VIEWPOINTS www.hotel-adlon.de. 375 rooms (304 singles €240 - FERNSEHTURM (TV TOWER) 379, 304 doubles €216 - 478, 78 suites €531 - 7100). The skewered disco ball on the tower peering over rooftops PHAUFLGKDCwW hhhhh certainly brings a level of humour to Berlin’s skyline. The 368-metre television broadcast tower, completed in 1969, HILTON 70m higher than the Eiff el tower and the tallest building in Maybe it’s the excellent breakfast and not the privileged Germany, has an and the Sphere restaurant view on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back. with a rotating fl oor. Photos point out the landmarks for you. The formal rooms are supplemented by good restaurants QG-3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, and exotic spa treatments.QF-2, Mohrenstraße 30, www.tv-turm.de. Admission €12/8. Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 202 30, info.berlin@

30 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 31 Charlottenburg & the West Charlottenburg & the West Follow what becomes an increasingly silken ribbon down Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm) and the setting becomes Restaurants & Cafés more genteel. West Berliners meet in the bars and cafés branching off Savignyplatz, even if the Szene has moved east. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss GERMAN Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I. This APRIL chapter also covers other parts of western Berlin: leafy This bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for and Schöneberg, the centre of gay Berlin two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out since the days of Christopher Isherwood’s Berlin Stories. back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD-5, We’ve also included some nearby venues in Tiergarten Winterfeldstraße 56, Schöneberg, MU , (offi cially part of Mitte) here. tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €-€€. UNGBS Zillemarkt Getting there sauerkraut, and boiled potatoes), Oma’s Rote Grütze (a vanilla Charlottenburg’s nerve centre is Zoologischer Bahnhof BAVARIUM pudding with stewed red berries), and warm apple strudel station, along the main west-east raised city railway and A Bavarian restaurant oddly located in the basement of the make up the menu of traditional Alt-Berlin and Brandenburg easily reached from Hauptbahnhof or . From here’s Europa-Center mall by the Gedächtniskirche. Where buxom cuisine.QD-5, Motzstraße 61, Schöneberg, MU Viktoria- it’s a short walk to many hotels and sights, or else hop on waitresses plonk down hearty German dishes and big glasses Luise-Platz, tel. +49 30 21 96 98 61, schoeneberger_ the M29 bus, going east along Tauentzienstraße or west of Löwenbräu, Radler and Franziskaner beer, to the merry tune [email protected], www.schoeneberger-weltlaterne. down Kurfürstendamm. of oompah-music. How much more German can it get?QD-4, de. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. €. TEB Tauentzienstraße 9-12 (Europa-Center), Charlottenburg, Pocket Walk: Charlottenburg MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 261 43 97, www. ZILLEMARKT Explore Charlottenburg from Zoologischer Garten station. bavarium-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. TUG It’s easy to imagine Heinrich Zille, a local artist famous for his If ‘downtown’ to you means wide, traffi c-fi lled streets, Walk east past the Zoo to for the ruins charming portraits of Berlin’s lower classes, stroll in and order a crowds of shoppers, fi ve-star hotels and tall buildings, and modern reincarnation of the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial KNESE jellied boiled pork, stuff ed cabbage leaves or a Berliner Currywurst. then Charlottenburg comes closest to fi tting the bill in Church. Stroll further east down Tauentzienstraße for the Alt-Berliner, traditional ‘Old Berlin’ cuisine, is on off er at rustic Zillemarkt serves breakfast, home-made cakes. lunch and dinner, Berlin. The Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche church, left KaDeWe department store and other upmarket shops, or Knese. Try the Königsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes, and you can down a Zillebräu beer in the glass-ceilinged bar.QC- as a ruin after the war, is the nexus of activity; between head west along Kantstraße to leafy Savignyplatz for calm the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and 4, Bleibtreustraße 48a, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. it and Zoologischer Garten station, over a billion euros is cafés and refi ned dining, or southwest down grand old potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable +49 30 881 70 40, [email protected], www.zillemarkt.de. being invested in impressive highrises, hotels and offi ces. Kurfürstendamm for more shopping. prices. There’s also a selection of international meals and Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. TB

e desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some

e tr. an s lle Q ers B Ha C D good South-African wine. C-4, Knesebeckstraße 63, Fas r Hertzallee teina M Str. de s nstn Tierga Charlottenburg, U Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48, n Jebens te r. K b h t TB e s li Goethestr. r r www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. Zoologischer n Grolmanstr. Stein- gs Lic e l gel Schlüterstr. tr. Drakestr. Leibnizstr. ü str. platz Hardenberg- Garten t Pestalozzistr. S h Knesebeckstr. Corneliusstr. ö RENGER-PATZSCH S platz fe Weimarer V.-d.- r Zoologischer Garten tr. Lützowufer s Upscale German dining with a diff erence. The interior is kept r. r S t Heydt-Str.

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pe Kantstr. Savigny- U uda ufe casual and simple, with all focus on the people and the food. Kantstr. Breitscheid- B Lützow 4 Savignyplatz S platz platz ester Wichmannstr. Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes such as sauteed Grolmanstr. Budap Lüt buhrstr. Kurfürstendamm Kaiser- mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared pike-perch and a Niebuhrstr. Str. Kurfürstenstr. Einemstr. Q U Wilhelm- selection of tasty Alsatian fl ammekuchen. D-5, Wartburgstraße Uhlandstr. Tauentzienstr.Str. m Bleibtreustr. msenstr. Fasanenstr. Gedächtnis- M Mommsenstr. kirche Str. 54, Schöneberg, U Eisenacher Straße, tel. +49 30 784 20 Augsburger Str. Leibnizstr. Knesebeckstr. U Kurfürstendamm str. Wittenbergplatz bre Einemstr. 59, www.renger-patzsch.com. Open 18:00 - 23:30. €€.

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Joachimsthaler Str. Eisenacher Str. Pariser ns W Sächsische Str. W Spichernstr A Pfalzburger Str. Str. Motzstr. Winterfeldtstr. Düsseldorfer Str.Uhlandstr. Regensburger Str. Winter- Local cuisine Fasanenstr. U U Martin-Luther-Str. feldt- Konstanzer Str. Spichernstr. Grainauer Str. Nacho Viktoria-Luise-Platz platz dstr. Motzstr. 5 Bayerische Hohen- Hohenstaufenstr. Hohenstaufen- Wartburgstraße 54 Pommer U zollernplatz Heilbronner Str. str. sch Str. e Emser Str. Prager Hohenzollernplatz Landshuter Str Berlin - Schöneberg Württembergische Motzstr. Münchener Frankenstr. Str. tr. Str. Preußen- aus A n sc Open daily from 18:00 e str. park Sächsische Str. t ha

u Berchtesga a Günzelstr. ffe Barbarossastr. - Str. Barbarossastr. Günzelstr. Nassauis r n T b Tel. 784 20 59 Hohenzollerndamm U u Sigmar Gledischstr. Str. rg Bamberger Str. Günzelstr. e ela Str. H r . Fehrbelliner Platz Gie . anns- www.renger-patzsch.com 0tr 500ngel Goltz- 1000 m

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c t s - s S n-Luther ost o d dstr. r ische Str. Ei lee U e lzburger Str. g . R n i Renger-Patzsch n T Eisenacher Str ldstr 32 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 33 Charlottenburg & the West Charlottenburg & the West Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmann- AUSTRIAN restaurants.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. SSUKSANUKSAN OTTENTHAL €€€. UGB The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh, Sawatdi Kap – welcome to Suksan. Experience a seasonal ingredients, often from the owner’s home town, DRESSLER temple for Thai food and cooking culture in the Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose liver A good place to go if you yearn to relive something of heart of West Berlin, offering varied dishes with or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion of Wiener Berlin’s roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling, captivating aromas and tasty combinations that Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent, and you can large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness, and healthy and original ingredients are central to our rely on wine recommendations (the list is extensive). Wines meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu dishes, without losing sight of modern cuisine. and other products from Ottenthal such as pumpkinseed oil, changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden Q M Under bamboo roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests are available for purchase. This is truly one of our favourite 39. C-4, Kurfürstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, U in Thai settings. Let us take you on a culinary trip spots.QC-4, Kantstraße 153, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurant- to the land of smiles. Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal. dressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. €€€. VGB DUKE Suksan SCHNITZELEI Creative international crossover meals are served in the Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No 1920s building near the Ku’damm. The open kitchen allows ASIAN tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre, you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert create culinary SUKSAN with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good treats.QD-4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55, Charlottenburg, A short stroll from West Berlin’s shops and sights, Suksan vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in diff erent variations, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00, www. is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB-3, duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. €€€-€€€€. poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials, Röntgenstraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner- or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or Platz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open EINHORN fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD-4, 16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. TVGBS A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space only. Ansbacher Straße 4, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, Every day there’s a completely diff erent menu, with European Ansbacherstrasse 4 tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, [email protected], www. and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian dishes.QC-4, (corner of Kurfürstenstrasse) suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat FINE DINING Mommsenstraße 2, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. 21 01 86 73, www.suksan.de. 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. FIRST FLOOR tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorn-catering.de. Open A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Dieter’s 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. NGS restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who J J can’t move well after a seven-course meal make a point of 100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin Zillemarkt staying at the Palace. The cuisine has touches of France and ITALIAN Caféhaus • Restaurant the Far East, and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on FRANCUCCI’S the menu.QD-4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg, Francucci’s kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food, with home- Over 100 years of MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 25 02 10 20, made pasta and bread and plenty of regional ingredients in comfort and quality www.palace.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. dishes like the veal scallop with herbs, potatoes and black €€€€. G h truffl es.QB-4, Kurfürstendamm 90, Charlottenburg, MU Traditional German cuisine Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 323 33 18, www.francucci. TRAVEL FAR. HUGOS com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TVGBSW The InterContinental’s Michelin-starred French restaurant EAT AT HOME. on the 14th fl oor has stunning views across the park LA FORCHETTA RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE to Potsdamer Platz. Chef Thomas Kammeier’s cuisine is An upmarket restaurant well within the city limits but equally dazzling; expect subtle creations blending fi ne overlooking lake Halensee. Only fresh Italian food is served ORIGINAL fl avours in the lightest of dishes.QD-4, Budapester Straße here, including a delicious oven baked lamb. In summer, THAI 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 26 a romantic terrace is available.QA-5, Königsallee 5b, FOOD 02 12 63, www.hugos-restaurant.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Wilmersdorf, MS Halensee, tel. +49 30 892 85 97, info@ TUGW h Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. la-forchetta-berlin.de, www.la-forchetta-berlin.de. Open Ansbacher Strasse 4 12:00 - 24:00. B corner Kurfürstenstrasse INTERNATIONAL LOCANDA U-Bhf Wittenbergplatz DIEKMANN A tiny restaurant where Gianni can be found welcoming Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00 Herr Diekmann was one of the fi rst to grace Berlin’s simple guests, cooking, pouring wine, serving food and washing Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00 tables with some French fi nesse, even if it was in what dishes, all the while singing along to Italian classics. The Telefon 030.21 01 86 73 began as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers pasta, fi sh and meat dishes are simple, and all simply Telefax 030.21 01 86 88 Tel. 030-881 70 40 of an old Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann delicious. Ask for the three-course surprise menu. Opposite still uses French techniques to primp excellent ingredients. the Schaubühne theatre.QB-4, Lehniner Platz 2, Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg M www.suksan.de www.zillemarkt.de Always on the menu are oysters and a selection of French Charlottenburg, U Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 31 80 69 cheeses.QC-4, Meinekestraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU 68. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €. TNGBS

34 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 35 Charlottenburg & the West Charlottenburg & the West ZWÖLF APOSTEL Fasanenstraße 23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, The alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior tel. +49 30 887 2860, literaturhaus@literaturhaus-berlin. with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The de, www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. €€. Italian food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here GB is excellent, and from Monday to Friday the business lunch options off er good value. Also at Georgenstraße 2, CAFE KALWIL under the S-Bahn track in Mitte.QC-4, Bleibtreustraße A cosy and straight-friendly café in gay old Schöneberg. 49, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering 14 33, www.12-apostel.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping TNGBS moustachioed men. There’s fair trade coff ee, quality teas, cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals and more.QD-4/5, Motzstraße 30, Schöneberg, MU JAPANESE Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 - SACHIKO SUSHI 22:00. €€. ABW An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town, dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant GRENANDER MORNING GLORY with some of the best sushi in town. Not afraid to serve Pastries, muffi ns, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, here’s the counter of this modern, earth-tone café. Great for your chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC- morning.QD-4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schöneberg, 3, Jeanne-Mammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www. Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi. grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €€. TUGBS com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. €€. TGBS Nightlife SPANISH BARS EL DORADO GREEN DOOR Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting This dimly-lit, cool bar doesn’t take itself too seriously. An for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an weigh up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded, Moorish and Catalan specialities and there’s also tapas if green leather door protects those prone to bumping into things ZWIEBELFISCH you just want to snack while watching the boulevard’s after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and up, and quite The name Zwiebelfi sch is, among other things, the term shoppers pass by.QC-4, Kurfürstendamm 203-205, steady on their feet.QD-5, Winterfeldstraße 50, Schöneberg, used by printers to label a single letter that rebels and Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215 25 15, www.greendoor. appears in a font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but 92 65 82, www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 - de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. still-kicking liberals come here to rest the weight of their 02:00. €€. B youthful ideals and trade wisecracks with long-time owner HEFNER Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz or classic music is piped in, and MAROOUSH CAFÉS The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool a selection of papers and magazines helps stretch out Refi ned Egyptian-oriental opulence with a modern cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstraße. Though the the beer or coff ee. Hot meals, like goulash and Swabian twist and gourmet food. The combined restaurant, CAFÉ AM NEUEN SEE lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner Maultaschen are served up until 03:00. The tall tables The perfect Berlin is riding a bike through prides itself on having the best selection of Martini abutting the bar are a brilliantly social arrangement.QC-4, shisha lounge and cocktail bar has a luxurious and Q M tasteful décor enhancing the equally exotic menu. Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and cocktails in Berlin. C-4, Kantstraße 146, Charlottenburg, Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, S Savignyplatz, tel. then renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake. MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefner- +49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfi sch-berlin.de. Open Puff on a shisha as you await your meal or come NB NBSW on Friday or Saturday for ‘dinner and dance’, with This café, restaurant and bar serves a breakfast of berlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. 12:00 - 06:00. €-€€. belly-dancers, live music and a party atmosphere. champions until 16:00 as well as regional food, Q coffee, cakes and cocktails. Food served till 22:00. C-4, Knesebeckstraße 48, Charlottenburg, Q M JAZZ CLUBS MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 887 11 83 35, D-4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten, S/U www.marooush.de. Open 15:00 - 01:00. E Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, www. A-TRANE cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun Concerts at 22:00.QBleibtreustraße 1, Charlottenburg, 09:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€. TUGB MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30 313 25 50, info@a- trane.de, www.a-trane.de. Open 21:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat CAFÉ IM LITERATURHAUS 21:00 - 04:00. E Some guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats, polished canes and freshly fl uff ed pups, but you don’t have to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout. More reviews online: Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers and critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy berlin.inyourpocket.com rooms that are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC-4, Café im Literaturhaus

36 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 37 Charlottenburg & the West Charlottenburg & the West UNION JACK A corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin, this whisky pub is one of Berlin’s fi rst true pubs and continues  to draw the punters in with a collection of 401 whiskys WHISKIES (from the best Scottish and Irish brands to Canadian and Japanese bourbon) and various English and Irish beers. Ŷ %HUOLQ%HUOLQµV V¿UVW(QJOLVKSXEVLQFH¿UVW (QJOLVVK SXE VLQFH  Solid food is available too – home made snacks and and Ŷ %ULWLVKDQG,ULVKEHHURQWDS Walkers crisps.QC-4, Schlüterstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www. Ż 'ULQNIURPWKH<$5'2)$/( OLWUH unionjack-berlin.de. Open 19:00 - open end. Closed Sun PRXWKEORZQH[FOXVLYHO\IRU8QLRQ-DFN Open from 19:00. Sun closed. Ŷ /LYH0XVLFGXULQJZLQWHUPRQWKV

Schlüterstr.15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg, Tel. 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de, Monday to Saturday from 19:00 Irish Harp Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 MUSEUM FÜR ASIATISCHE KUNST 30 32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00-18:00; Nov- Alongside special exhibitions dealing with everything PUBS Mar 10:00-17:00; Mon closed. New Wing 10:00-18:00, from Qing-dynasty painting to architecture, the Asian THE HARP Tues closed. Admission €12/8, New Wing €6/5. Photo Art museum has an impressive permanent collection A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub permit €3. of Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of archaeology. Each tradition has its own gallery, and homemade burgers. On tap there’s Guinness, Kilkenny, and in the centre, a room dedicated to Buddhist art. a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports CHURCHES Chinese and Japanese painting and calligraphy are events to be beamed on screens, and there’s quiz nights GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE of special interest, as well as Japanese woodcuts. Q M and live music too. The pub can be booked for special Union Jack The ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark re- Takustraße 40, , U -Dorf, occasions.QB-4, Giesebrechtstraße 15, Charlottenburg, minder of wartime destruction, is West Berlin’s landmark tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, info@harp- attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe acknowl- 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. pub.de, www.harp-pub.de. Mon-Fri from 13:00, Sat, Sun edgement of Germany’s culpability is declared on a plaque: Admission €6/3. from 10:00. €-€€. EBW Sightseeing ‘The tower of the old church serves as a remembrance of God’s judgement, which befell our people during the war LANDMARKS years.’ The 1895 church was once a symbol of national pride: PARKS AND GARDENS OLYMPIC STADIUM even synagogues contributed to its funding. Inside is a gild- TIERGARTEN The Olympic Stadium was originally built under the ed mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty. The modern chapel This 255 hectare park full of paths, meadows, and direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936 and bell tower beside it were completed in 1961, and are waterways is the most genteel of Berlin’s parks, but it’s Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist worth entering on sunny days for the amazing blue stained still a fi ne place for jogging, football, a picnic barbecue, architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most glass windows. Concerts take place every week, many or nude sunbathing (weather permitting). The Siegessäule striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly of them free.QD-4, Breitscheidplatz, Charlottenburg, (Victory Column) that stood in front of the Reichstag from fl oating roof whose translucent skin off ers shelter for MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 218 50 23, www. 1873 until 1938 now serves as a roundabout and lookout almost all of the 75,000 seats. On non-event days you gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:00-19:00. point in the middle of the park. The park’s café and beer German, Irish and international cuisine can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide, garden, Café am Neuensee, is at the southwestern end. Q Q Thursdays fun-quiz in German & English or on an hour-long guided tour. Olympischer Platz 3, C/D/E-3/4. Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49 30 MUSEUMS Fridays and Saturdays live music from 21:00 25 00 23 22, [email protected], www. ALLIIERTENMUSEUM () Live sports events on big screens! olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00 June - The Allied Museum covers 50 years of West German Allied See our website for the event calendar mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:00-16:00. (US, British, French) relations in the US Army movie house Admission €7/5. Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original sentry box from COLD WAR BERLIN the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing.QClayallee 135, M The physical division of Berlin during 28 years, and Zehlendorf, U Oskar-Helene-Heim, tel. +49 30 818 the development of two completely separated cities The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussia’s 19 90, www.alliiertenmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. on both sides of the Wall that ran between them, fi rst queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace Closed Wed. Admission free. has led to huge diff erences that cannot be erased in in 1695, today’s version, distinguished by its 505-meter a matter of a few years. Key sights relating to this era facade and central tower, took its fi nal form in 1790. C/O BERLIN are the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer in Prenzlauer You can take a guided or audiotour of the luxurious On 30 October, the famed C/O photo gallery reopens in the Berg, Checkpoint Charlie in Mitte with the Haus and largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where an iconic Amerika-Haus building near Zoo Bahnhof. There’s am Checkpoint Charlie Wall museum, BlackBox eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms space for multiple exhibitions, and the gallery kicks off with Open Monday – Friday from 1 pm Cold War, Wall Panorama and Stasi exhibition, resided. Also here is the largest collection of 18th century Will McBride’s series “I Fell in Love With the City” showing Saturday & Sunday from 10 am and the Tränenpalast, the former border crossing French painting outside France, plus a beautiful Baroque how post-war Berlin awakened in the 1950s. Check the site beside Friedrichstraße station. Get insights into Giesebrechtstraße 15 // Berlin-Charlottenburg Q garden, mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a for opening hours and prices. C-4, Hardenbergstraße daily GDR life at the DDR Museum in Mitte and the [email protected] • www.harp-pub.de M porcelain exhibition. Take bus M45 from Wagner-Platz or 22-24, Charlottenburg, S/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. Museumswohnung WBS 70 out in the suburbs. Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA-3, Spandauer Damm 20-24, +49 30 28 44 41 60, www.co-berlin.org.

38 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 39 Charlottenburg & the West Charlottenburg & the West KEMPINSKI BRISTOL WALDORF ASTORIA Shopping The elite Kempinski and Adlon are sister properties, but Berlin’s newest luxury hotel, 118 metres high, occupies WEST BERLIN REVIVAL this is where well-travelled regulars feel more at home a prime spot near Kurfürstendamm and the Kadewe SHOPPING CENTRES - out of the limelight, but still in upmarket lodgings on department store in western Berlin. Honouring its grand After the Second World War, the western half of Berlin BIKINI BERLIN a swank corner of Ku’damm.QC-4, Kurfürstendamm New York heritage, it’s decorated in lavish Art Deco style, found itself in a very curious situation. This group of city The new Bikini Berlin ‘concept mall’ is Berlin’s shopping 27, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 with artworks and decoration in the spacious rooms, suburbs, which included the chic shopping and theatre sensation of the year. Inside the renovated landmark 1950s 88 43 40, [email protected], www. and a café and bar with a theme. The library district of Charlottenburg, was suddenly declared a building is a set of boutiques selling everything from kempinskiberlin.de. 301 rooms (249 singles €265 - on the 15th fl oor with its concierge and great views is a separate entity from the eastern part of the city, which fashion, beauty and electronics to art, plus a supermarket, 326, 249 doubles €322 - 447, 52 suites €470 - 1800). comfortable place to relax. The Les Solistes restaurant run included the entire city centre district. After the fall of restaurants and cafes. On the lower level there are a dozen Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC by star chef Pierre Gagnaire off ers fi ne dining and 650 the Wall, West Berlin went through a tough decade of cool pop-up box shops - but perhaps best of all is the huge hhhhh wines.QC-4, Hardenbergstraße 28, Charlottenburg, reorientation, as investment and visitors headed east terrace with great views across the zoo.QD-4, Budapester MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 814 00 00, www. to the original city centre. Now however, the West is Straße 38-50, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer PALACE waldorfastoriaberlin.com. 232 rooms (doubles from undergoing something of a revival. Next to the newly Garten, tel. +49 30 55 49 64 54, www.bikiniberlin.de. Near the Europa Center shops and the zoo, gourmands €250). PHAUFLGKDCwW renovated Gedächtniskirche stands the gleaming new Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun Terrace feast at the First Floor restaurant and guests schmooze in Waldorf Astoria, overlooking the revolutionary Bikini open 24hrs. the conference rooms that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak Berlin concept mall and the linked 25hours Hotel panelling and fireplaces. The staidly furnished rooms are €150-200 Bikini Berlin. Just across the tracks, the C/O Berlin photo (KADEWE) large.QD-4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg, BLEIBTREU gallery opens this autumn. If that’s not enough reason to Europe’s largest department store, Berlin’s answer to MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 250 20, It’s hard to tell the hip guests from the hip neighbours that look west, the intriguing West:Berlin exhibition opens Harrod’s has 64 escalators linking seven huge fl oors, with [email protected], www.palace.de. 239 rooms (59 share the deli and café fronting the boutique-lined street. in mid-November. Find information about all these two fl oors devoted completely to gourmet food. Have singles €200 - 300, 191 doubles €225 - 325, 32 suites The designer rooms operate by remote-control but are Western attractions elsewhere in this guide. oysters at the champagne bar to take the sting out of €325 - 2150). PHARUFLGKDC furnished using allergy-friendly, ecological, natural fabrics your shopping spree.QD-4, Tauentzienstraße 21-24, hhhhh and furniture.QC-4, Bleibtreustraße 31, Charlottenburg, Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 30, info@plazahotel. Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212 MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 47 40, info@bleibtreu. de, www.plazahotel.de. 131 rooms (singles €80 - 150, 10, www.kadewe.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - SAVOY BERLIN com, www.bleibtreu.com. 60 rooms (15 singles €115 - doubles €79 - 180, triples €105 - 200). HLGKW 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Utterly un-Berlin, this stylish Cuban-flavoured abode 157, 45 doubles €125 - 182). ARGK once made Latin-music lover David Byrne a happy BEST WESTERN PRESIDENT guest. Who knows who you’ll trade smoke rings GRAND HOTEL ESPLANADE Huge leather reclining chairs, cosmetic tables and an old- Hotels with in the cigar shop near the clubby Times Bar. Overlooking the Bauhaus museum between time clubby lounge make this a smart choice for business QC-4, Fasanenstraße 9-10, Charlottenburg, MS/U Kurfürstendamm and Tiergarten park, the modern travellers. Besides the restaurant and bar, there’s also a fi tness OVER €200 Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 31 10 30, info@ Esplanade has bright, well-furnished rooms and centre and multifunctional meeting rooms.QD-4, An der DAS STUE hotel-savoy.com, www.hotel-savoy.com. 125 rooms impresses with a large glass-covered atrium, the Harry’s Urania 16-18, Schöneberg, MS/U Wittenbergplatz, The luxurious, family-owned ‘living room’ hotel, set in the (45 singles €142 - 222, 62 doubles €152 - 232, triples New York Bar and a sizeable spa and fi tness centre.QD- tel. +49 30 21 90 30, [email protected], www. 1930s Danish embassy building, attracts an interesting €192 - 272, 16 suites €202 - 292). ARFKD 4, Lützowufer 15, Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, president-hotel.de. 178 rooms (25 singles €79 - 155, 153 mix of creatives and business visitors. The 1920s-style hhhh tel. +49 30 25 47 80, www.esplanade.de. 394 rooms doubles €96 - 183, 3 suites €189 - 305). Breakfast extra. bar and many rooms overlook the zoo, with ostriches (singles/doubles from €99, 40 suites from €139). PHARFGKD hhhh and antelopes peering back at you. The rooms and grand SOFITEL BERLIN KURFÜRSTENDAMM PTHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh suites are spread across the old and new wings, adorned The 11-story, French-style Sofi tel impresses with sleekly ELLINGTON HOTEL with beautiful wooden and copper details. A small pool designed rooms with fi ne woods, contemporary art Set in a beautiful 1920s building near Kurfürstendamm and can be found in the spa area, and there’s the fi rst-class and fantastic views from the upper fl oors. The curved €75-150 named after the American jazz legend, the Ellington’s rooms Cinco restaurant.QD-4, Drakestraße 1, Tiergarten, MU corner suites have sliding walls and elegant free-standing BERLIN, BERLIN have clean, understated and elegant design, with the Tower Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 311 72 20, www.das-stue. bathtubs.QC-4, Augsburger Straße 41, Charlottenburg, Mostly known for its conference facilities, this large 1958 Suites off ering great views. The Duke hotel restaurant serves com. 80 rooms (70 doubles from €200, 20 suites €290- MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 800 99 90, H9387@ hotel is in a central but rather bland area just south of up international cuisine in fabulous surroundings, and has 740). PHUFGKDCW sofi tel.com, www.sofi tel.com. 311 rooms (singles €230 - Tiergarten park. The glam period lobby and restaurant give regular jazz brunches.QD-4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55, 280, doubles €240 - 300, 44 suites €280 - 950). Breakfast way to comfortably furnished rooms, in a variety of styles. Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 68 31 INTERCONTINENTAL extra. There’s live sports action in the bar, while peace can be found 50, [email protected], www.ellington-hotel. Near transport options, the Zoo and Tiergarten park, in the summer garden restaurant.QD-4, Lützowplatz 17, com. 285 rooms (singles €108 - 238, doubles €118 - 248, the InterContinental off ers quiet nights in modern and SWISSÔTEL BERLIN Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 260 50, suites €168 - 428). PJHARUFLK spacious rooms, and conference facilities with intelligent Every room here has a Lavazza espresso machine [email protected], www.hotel-berlin.de. 701 rooms business solutions. After work, there’s gourmet food at and suites are cranking with Bang & Olufsen stereos. (103 singles €100 - 195, 569 doubles €100 - 245, 29 SYLTER HOF Hugos and live music at the Marlene Bar. Further relaxation When you’re done playing in your room, downtown suites €220 - 900). PHARUFLGKD Sylt may be a skinny island in the North Sea, but these options can be found in the large spa complex, with western Berlin beckons. You’ll never want to go home. hhhh suites in a high-rise are fat. For the cost of a normal room in several saunas and fi tness facilities.QD-4, Budapester QC-4, Augsburger Straße 44, Charlottenburg, MU Berlin, you get a fully equipped kitchen too (a supermarket Straße 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 22 01 00, berlin@ BERLIN PLAZA is across the street) and rates go down for longer stays. tel. +49 30 260 20, [email protected], www. swissotel.com, www.swissotel-berlin.com. 316 The Plaza has elegantly simple rooms equipped with QD-3, Kurfürstenstraße 114-116, Schöneberg, MU interconti.com. 558 rooms (498 singles €165 - 350, 498 rooms (219 singles €160 - 310, 219 doubles €160 all modern conveniences, such as allergy-free bedlinen Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212 00, info@sylterhof- doubles €170 - 400, 60 suites €215 - 2500). Breakfast - 310, 14 suites €310 - 480, 11 junior suite €260 and free wi-fi . The in-house Knese restaurant has solid berlin.de, www.sylterhof-berlin.de. 160 rooms (80 extra. PTHAUFLEGBKDCW - 410). Breakfast €21. PHARFLGD traditional Berlin cuisine, and an attractive terrace. singles €69 - 120, 40 doubles €99 - 180, 40 suites €129 hhhhh hhhhh QC-4, Knesebeckstraße 63, Charlottenburg, MU - 210). HAG hhh

40 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 41 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg On a low hill northeast Pocket Walk: Prenzlauer Berg of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an Start walking uphill along Kollwitzstraße from U-Bahn Restaurants & Cafés old working-class district station Senefelder Platz. From leafy Kollwitzplatz turn in the former East Berlin into beautiful Husemannstraße, which was already that came through the war restored in GDR times, and left into Sredzkistraße GERMAN relatively unscathed. After where you’ll spot the Kulturbrauerei complex ahead; DIE SCHULE 1989, the cool brigade enter beside the tall chimney and wander through its Modern and light German food on Berlin’s prime catwalk. pounced on the area, and courtyards to the northern exit. Cross Danziger Straße Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect houses that were once and amble down Lychenerstraße to pretty, café-lined place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace home to East German Helmholtzplatz. Follow Raumerstraße west, turn left facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these punks were renovated down Pappelallee and cross underneath the U-Bahn rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can in odes to pastel. The station to Eberswalder Straße; you’ll soon reach the have all the German food classics, and even better: you Die Schule number of wine shops and popular Mauerpark and the top end of Bernauer Straße can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small ZANDER young parents pushing with its excellent Wall Memorial. samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG- This award-winning restaurant is a fi ne blend of tradition, pricey prams indicates the level of gentrifi cation here. The 2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder innovation, and casual professionalism. Using mainly best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzplatz, Straße, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-die- regional products, Zander serves mouth-watering German Helmholzplatz and along Kastanienallee. One of Prenzlauer HOTEL schule.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. BW and international cuisine and excellent wines in a stylish Berg’s best attractions is the Kulturbrauerei culture centre, and intimate setting. Though zander (pike-perch) is a house set in a 19th-century brewery complex. This chapter also RESTAURATION 1900 speciality, the perfectly-composed set menus are highly PRECISE MYER’S Q covers some places in multicultural , just to the Entered from a quiet courtyard, Myer’s is an upmarket Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900 exhibits some fascinating recommended. G-2, Kollwitzstraße 50, Prenzlauer Berg, west. photographs of the neighbourhood before (Trabant) and MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 05 76 78, www. private hotel with smallish, classically furnished rooms B overlooking the garden. On the ground fl oor, a tearoom after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent Berlin and German zander-restaurant.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. Getting there has a pleasant summer terrace.QH-2, Metzer Straße food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian options. The U2 from Alexanderplatz feeds crowds onto Senefel- 26, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at derplatz and Eberswalder Straße, close to most attractions. 30 44 01 40, [email protected], www.myershotel. the weekly market, and on Sundays to fi ll up at the all- FAST FOOD From Museumsinsel and Friedrichstraße you can use tram you-can-eat breakfast buff et.QH-2, Husemannstraße KONNOPKE’S IMBISS de. 51 rooms (8 singles €75 - 135, 33 doubles €85 M M1 to Eberswalder Straße as well. U-Bahn station Bernauer - 185, 1 suite €195 - 345, 10 Premium €115 - 265). 1, Prenzlauer Berg, U Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 The Ziervogel family started selling their famous Wursts Straße and S-Bahn station Nordbahnhof are most conven- HARG 30 442 24 94, www.restauration1900.de. Open 10:00 - in 1930. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those ient for a stroll along the Wall Memorial to Mauerpark. 23:00. €-€€. TBSW spilling out of the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn; the Imbiss is just south, beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like e gener Kopp Str. rs U Schwedter gerstr Ystader Str. r. a true native, order it ohne darm (without the intestine skin . F S G t Wichertstr.H S Q

Str. . r Duncke wrapping). G-1, Schönhauser Allee 44b, Prenzlauer e str Gleimstr. n M ch Berg, U Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 77 65, Ramlerstr. Gleimstr. www.konnopke-imbiss.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat Falk- Cantianstr. enhage Volkspark f Gaudystr. i Gleimstr.Graunstr. Stargarder Str. Brunnenstr. platz e K r 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. €. Swinemünder Str. Am Falkplatz Prenzlauer Allee Humboldthain G Pappelallee Ahlbecker Str. Gr S el boldthain RügenerPutbusser Str. Str. DAILY 11.00 – 24.00 Schönhauser Allee Lychener Str. INTERNATIONAL 1 Raumerstr

Gustav-Meyer-Allee Dunckerstr. FLEISCHLUST

Wolliner Str. Mauer- Topsstr. . Hussitenstr.Gesundbrunnen A spot for those with healthy lust for fl esh can grill ‘n g- U park rin lder S U Eberswalder Str. chill. Staff in 1930s outfi ts serve excellent steaks, cooked r. Voltastr. Demminer Str. swa tr. st Eber Senefelderstr. Voltastr. Danziger Str. anything from blue (extremely rare) to well done. For the Fröbel undecided, there’s a mixed grill, while the thirsty can delve Usedomer Str. Str. Diesterwegstr. s Q Schwedter Str. Oberberger Str. into the wine and cocktail menu. H-1, Pappelallee 36, Str. Swine- Knaackstr. G BernauerRuppiner Str. Danziger Ella- M artenstr. Prenzlauer Berg, S/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 Max-Urich- Hussitenstr. Wolliner Str. Sredzkistr. Stralsunder Str. Ackerstr. e Chodowieckist 44 67 54 14, www.fl eischlust-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - F Bernauer Str. U Kollwitzstr. . ormer border le St l str. berger Str.Arkona- Huse- a mann- Jablonskistr. Strelitzer Str. n open end. Str. platz Str. C Rheins- münder ie hr r. n Str. Rykestr ist Theod.- - a Wörther Kollwitz- bu Heuss- Str. w t rger St Modern and light German food Weg Str. o s C rZionskirch- n platz Prenzlauer Allee aroline-Michaelis-Str. Bernauer e e a GUGELHOF b K r. Berg- Ackerstr. m e str. Choriner la str. i Marienburger Str. on Berlin‘s catwalk no.1

Ank Fehrbelliner Str. r S Knaackstr. G During the early bloom of Kollwitzplatz’s gentrifi cation, e str. ch

we 2 Anklamer Str. . dter e the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state:

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Bergstr. B s Zionskirchstr. l Dieden- Str. l hofer kirc r n Str. h h e t u Belforter Str. e A Immanuelkirchstr. Schröder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton made - b n Kollwitzstr. a Templiner KASTANIENALLEE 82 | 10435 BERLIN Str. s str. n g Str. Winsstr. li Veteran Colmarer Nordbahnhof E e e U surprise visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share S Pappel- n w eRaabestr. Volkspark - r. s . Fehrbelliner Str. FON: (030) 78 00 89 5-50 idenst s Senefelder Platz nval platz t g the menu; this is where to try fl ammekuchen, a thin-crust I Ackerstr. Eichendorff- r. str. Nied innowitzer b Metzer Str. AlleHeinrich-Roller-Str. Z Str. n i Zehdenicker r e [email protected] str. e Lottum- e U s S Str. r Alsatian pizza. The atmosphere is lively and service is Gartenstr. Bergstr. aa W u rb e Q M seum str. a rü u www.restaurant-die-schule.de Bo Str. str. h c friendly. H-2, Knaackstraße 37, Prenzlauer Berg, U Chausseest Schröder- n ke la r str. ö r z s Schlegel- i U Rosenthaler Platz h S n Greifswalder Str. Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 92 29, gugelhof@t- g Christinen- c tr Novali st Torstr. . re hel Torstr. S P Tieckstr. r. H U2 Linienstr. Linienstr. . anns- angel Eberswalder Str. Rosenthaler Platz str. Joa Ro 0r 500 1000 m i online.de, www.gugelhof.com. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, R t . Straßburger r Berg Ha r os S Am Fr A s Koppen- t P- renzlaue ost r mb s c s ker- er Torst n Ei Kl s r. s T Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. Torstr. lt üc 42 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 43 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg ITALIAN TOURIST INFORMATION MUSEUMS PIZZERIA I DUE FORNI ZIMMERMEISTER BRUNZEL’S MIETSHAUS Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the PRENZLAUER BERG Gentrifi cation has transformed many Prenzlauer Berg service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE apartments into deluxe dream houses; this fascinating of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is Prenzlauer Berg’s district tourist information centre museum shows master carpenter Brunzel’s apartment highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due is inside the Kulturbrauerei complex. Staff advise in its original state, with extensive information about its Q about events, nightlife, guided tours and sights.QG- Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town. G-2, M construction, utilities, furnishing and the often squalid living Schönhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder 1/2, Schönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, U conditions around 1900 in Prenzlauer Berg and Berlin.QH-1, Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 44 35 21 70, www. Dunckerstraße 77, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tic-berlin.de. Open 11:00 - 19:00. tel. +49 30 445 23 21, www.ausstellung-dunckerstrasse. JAPANESE de. Open 11:00 - 16:30. Closed Wed. Admission €2/1. SUSHI IMBISS AM WASSERTURM SANTIAGO Discounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd This cocktail lounge overlooking Kollwitzplatz has a PARKS AND GARDENS this fi ve-table joint, but there’s takeout as well. Sake Maki, somewhat dodgy interior – leather sofas and glitzy girl MAUERPARK California Make and vegetarian items all run about €3. All statues that wouldn’t look out of place in a nightclub The immensely popular ‘Wall Park’ has no greenery to speak sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any – but manages to get the punters in with a range of of; this is an intensely used piece of former border strip that’s explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and staff speak attractively priced off ers like cocktails during the happy especially busy on Sundays when it hosts a fl ea market and the English.QH-2, Rykestraße 45, Prenzlauer Berg, MU (before 20:00) and blue hours (from 01:00). There’s an immensely popular Bearpit Karaoke (every second Sunday from Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04 57 06. Open 12:00 - eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and brunch at 15:00), where anyone can grab the microphone and sing for a 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€. weekends.QH-2, Wörtherstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, crowd of thousands.QG-1, Eberswalder Straße, Prenzlauer M M U Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. Open Raumerstr. 8 [Helmholtzplatz], 40301770, tausche.de Berg, U Eberswalder Straße, www.mauerpark.info. CAFÉS 16:00 - 03:00. ANNA BLUME WEINSTEIN Shopping Named after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha fl ower An older crowd savours an evening of conversation girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed café. Serving up and wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to BOOKS coff ee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts, help anchor the 40 vintages available by the glass. SHAKESPEARE & SONS it’s one of the better spots for people-watching or just There are few better places to try the outstanding SODA CLUB An excellent little living-room style bookshop that came to reading. Intriguingly, it also sells fl owers (Blume) from the German whites that usually don’t make it out of In the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is Berlin from , selling used and new English-language connected shop next door – and the smell of coff ee and the country and there’s also a selection of sherries. a fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is books as well as coff ee, tea, cakes and snacks. Leaf through fresh fl owers combines very well.QH-2, Kollwitzstraße 83, QH-1, Lychener Straße 33, Prenzlauer Berg, played on Thursdays and Sundays (€5, starting off with a classic novel while munching on banana bread.QH-1, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 441 18 42, a lesson hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays there’s five Raumerstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. 87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00. [email protected], www.weinstein.eu. Open dancefloors with electro, crossover, black and dance +49 30 40 00 36 85. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. classics - girls get in for free until 01:00.QSchönhauser SCHALL UND RAUCH Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, ‘Noise and Smoke’ is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buff et WOHNZIMMER tel. +49 30 443 151 55, [email protected], www. FASHION & SHOES on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar If the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe soda-berlin.de. Open , Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 TAUSCHE TASCHEN at night together with a variety of artists, students and would vote to hang out here. The large ‘living room’ is - 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00 Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00. Bags with exchangeable fl aps in over young in-crowd. But it’s more than just a café - the adjacent ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and 100 diff erent designs. Two fl aps are hotel has modern and aff ordable double rooms.QG-1, GDR-era tables are constantly being shuffled to make included and various insets equip the Gleimstraße 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser room for the rumpled but attractive crowds. There’s Sightseeing bag to suit any occasion.QH-1, Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de. coffee and pastries in the morning.QH-1, Lettestraße Raumerstraße 8, Prenzlauer Berg, Open 08:00 - 02:00. 6, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 LANDMARKS MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 445 54 58, www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00 KULTURBRAUEREI 30 40 30 17 70, [email protected], - 04:00. Follow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century www.tausche.de. Open 10:00 - Nightlife brewery and you’ll eventually fi nd an entryway into a 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A BARS CLUBS cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre AUGUST FENGLER GEBURTSTAGSKLUB of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is fi lled with MARKETS A neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there aren’t just Twenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged rooms of bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only FLOHMARKT AM MAUERPARK football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley) this otherwise spacious cellar. Don’t miss the mad thing you won’t fi nd is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss Vegan snacks, bicycles, crafts, clothing, alternative souvenirs too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and monthly drag party with Nina Queer. Like at many shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both and antiques - it’s all available (though not particularly the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups clubs in Berlin, you have to brave the walk down a dark a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and cheap) at the weekly Mauerpark fl ea market. Arrive early of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco, courtyard.QH-2, Am Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to to avoid the crowds.QG-1, Bernauer Straße 63-64, and funk in the small back dance room.QG-1, Lychner Berg, MU Schillingstraße, tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05, live bands.QG-2, Schönhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Straße, tel. 0176 29 25 00 Straße 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.geburtstagsklub.de. Open Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52, 21, www.mauerparkmarkt.de. Open , Sun 08:00 - 18:00. www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. - 06:00. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat Open Sun 09:00-15:00.

44 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 45 Friedrichshain Friedrichshain Friedrichshain is a lively old workers district that has SCHNEEWEISS completely been taken over by rad nightlife venues, graffi ti Restaurants & Cafés Schneeweiß is extremely stylish, very popular, and and leftist students moaning about Touri’s encroaching on very, very white. The delicious Alpine and ‘new German their favourite watering holes. Tree-lined Simon-Dach-Straße cuisine’ on the menu here is easily a match for the is full of cafés and bars, while Boxhagener Platz hosts the GERMAN chic interior, which has won accolades for its fantastic popular Sunday fl eamarket. In the former border zone along KEULE design. This is the place to go if you’re looking for a full- the river, the ‘’ development plans for offi ces, Keule, pronounced ‘coy-ler’ and berlinerisch for ‘bro’, is an on dining experience, not just food.QSimplonstraße apartments and skyscrapers is passionately opposed by many authentic corner in an increasingly international district. 16, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. vocal locals who fear they’ll lose public access to the river. This It serves regional cuisine classics such as soljanka soup, a +49 30 29 04 97 04, www.schneeweiss-berlin. chapter also includes suburban sights east of Friedrichshain. hefty farmer’s breakfast, traditional pork knuckle, cured de. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€. smoked pork and berry compote dessert. Later on, there’s TGBS Getting there cocktails and sports on the large screen.QSimon-Dach- From Mitte, hop on a train to S/U-Bahn station Warschauer Straße 22, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. Straße, or to U-Bahn station Frankfurter Tor. From +49 30 22 34 55 01, www.keule-berlin.de. Open from ASIAN Nordbahnhof or Prenzlauer Berg catch the M10 tram, 12:00. €€. AUB GLORY DUCK known as the party tram at night. Excellent Vietnamese-style Peking duck. This gorgeous new place serves crispy, freshly grilled duck, served with Pocket Walk: Friedrichshain ginger-mango sauce, orange sauce, red curry and other Get off the S- or U-Bahn at Warschauer Straße; enjoy the city toppings. Or go for Vietnamese standards such as Pho or panorama from the bridge and glance back at the dainty one of the vegetarian options. There’s a good selection of red-brick Oberbaumbrücke bridge before heading north into drinks and Asian cocktails too. The design alone is reason the district. Turn right on Revaler Straße and left on Simon- to drop by; the dark Feng Shui interior has interesting THE NEW DUCK IN TOWN Dach-Straße for Friedrichshain’s most touristy stretch of bars perspective lines, there’s a large harbour scene on one and cafés. A right on Krossener Straße takes you to Boxi, wall and the toilets are decorated with 13000 psychedelic SONNTAGSTR. 31 // BERLIN-FRIEDRICHSHAIN Boxhagener Platz, scene of the excellent Sunday fl ea market. stickers.QI-4, Sonntagstraße 31, Friedrichshain, MS 030 / 63 96 53 31 // gloryduck.de Walk north along Gärtnerstraße and Mainzer Straße to reach Ostkreuz, tel. +49 30 63 96 53 31, www.gloryduck. the grand Stalinist-style Frankfurter Allee. Follow this west (it de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. MON-FRI 12-24 / SAT+SUN 14-24 becomes Karl-Marx-Allee) and turn right onto Friedenstraße AUBSW for a stroll and a beer in . Keule en St Str t . A n Fr erg str. . r. e Eldenaer Q e INTERNATIONAL b . . t Löwestr. Dolziger Str Cake too. J-4, Krossener Straße 12, Friedrichshain, H I Tha J t h w g Palisadenstr. nwe s Pettenkofer Str M ic Mühsamstr. de t Auerstr ei tr. SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSE S/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 25 76 86 L Strausberger Platz W Bänschstr. Bersarin- oigtstr. Liebigstr V U str. Great steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service 87, www.cupcakeberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Karl-Marx-Allee Weidenweg platz Rigaer Str. Schreinerstr Bänschstr. TUVNGBSW Weidenweg Proskauer Str – what more does a meat-lover want? There’s a good . r. U Weberwiese . . choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian Frankfurter Tor e Karl-Marx-Allee Rigaer Q M Krautst n H.-Jadamowitz-Str. options. I-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, U u Koppen- U Str. Marchlewskistr oigtstr. Andreasstr Singerstr. m . Samariterstr. V CAFÉS . Frankfurter Frankfurter Alle Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 - r. om U S TUNGBS K 24:00. €. KAUFBAR Allee 3 .

R ü . . U de At this homey café you can wash down your chocolate rsdo Kadiner Str Bo Str er . x Kreutziger ngestr. s . Grünberger ha Frankfurter Allee rfer Gubener Str gen Scharnweberstr. CUPCAKE BERLIN croissant with either a coff ee or carafe of red wine. Koppenstr er Str Colbestr Pari Wriezener St Str. . . The very first thing that we learnt to bake together Excepting the wine, you can buy everything here to-go: r. Wedekindstr Grünberger Str. er Karree d arschauer Str with our mothers is now a fashionable little dessert the lampshades, art work, chairs and even the ashtrays. Ostbahnhof Jungstr. Marchlewskistr Boxhagener Platz tr Am Ostbahnhof W . . Andreasstr. Wriezener . ße eichselstr.OderstrJessnerstr snack with its own café dedicated to it. Try ‘The King’ The only thing not for sale in the “Buy Bar” are their board S a Kopernikusstr. str r Karree Helsingforser Str . Krossener Str. WeserstrW Stralauer Platz t -Str Boxhagener Str . Q M S - Gürtelstr. cupcake (with Elvis’ favourite ingredients), the sweet games. J-4, Gärtnerstraße 4, Friedrichshain, S/U 3 . ‘Pretty in Pink’ or any of the other 20-odd creations. Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 29 77 88 25, www. . Gärtner Wühlischstr F Libauer Str. o FRIEDRICHSHAIN Revaler Str. Wiesentw There’s a good breakfast and coffee served at Cup kaufbar-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 15:00 - rm . Simon-Dach mm er . . TUNGBSW mm eg 24:00. a b . d o n rd M .

e er Simplonstr. . Köpenicker ü . RAW Gelände Sonntagstr. str h r Holteistr l t Bahnhof- e S Revaler Str Kaskel- Spree n S MACONDO s tr r . O2 World z-Str. e U Str. n Warschauer Str. . str. Macondo was the setting of García Márquez’ novel 100 a u Neue Marktstr. M.-Harnack-Str. a -D Lenbach- 4 a h Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid tropical E r c platz str as a s Rudolfstr. t tta S m r Rother . atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful ‘reading café’. . ide a Schreiberhauer Str Köpenicker Str. T a . S Ga - Ostkreuz Spi llery W . There’s old furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday Pücklerstr. str. S WrangelstrEisenbahnstr. Gröbenufer Warschauer Platz market, good coff ee and original South American mate tea, anteuffelstrMuskauer Str. Ehrenbergstr Corinthstr Hauptstr. Q M sipped through a silver straw. Bring a book, and time. I- . Lehmbruckstr Schlesisches Tor - M a O m Danneckerstr 4, Gärtnerstraße 14, Friedrichshain, S/U Warschauer rstr Modersohnstr. b m . U erbau . Per Zeughofstr. Stralauer Allee siu m s . Lausitzer s r str. tr. a t Straße, tel. +49 30 54 73 59 43, info@mancondo-berlin. s Platz Schlesi ndhel t CorinthstrH e s f angel r. . anns- a de, www.macondo-berlin.de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat, Skalitzer Str. 0r 500a 1000 m t r n S y ener Str. r St er Str. str. - . g ostRummelsburger BW n sch n k Ei K Spreewald- in T r Glory Duck Sun 10:00 - 02:00. f tr. bb ue el S 46 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 47 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg Thanks to a large Turk- Getting there ish community and more The Bergmannstraße area is best reached from Restaurants & Cafés PAGODE hippies, anarchists and al- Friedrichstraße station on the U6; get off at , Simply one of the best ternative folks than you can or at Platz der Luftbrücke for the . For the gritty Thai restaurants in town. shake a bong at, Kreuzberg end of Kreuzberg hop on the U8 from Alexanderplatz GERMAN It feels crowded, steamy feels neither east nor west. and pop up at Kottbusser Tor. The Kreuzkölln bars are ALTES ZOLLHAUS and noisy, but that’s just It was the black sheep of within pubcrawling distance of Schönleinstraße and A bit of countryside in the city - the beautiful old customs part of the authentic self- West Berlin, literally cor- Hermannplatz stations, on the same line. house along an idyllic stretch of the Landwehrkanal has a service atmosphere; wait nered up against the death calm, rustic atmosphere in which to try regional specialities till you sink your teeth in the fantastic food. The open strip and left alone to play Pocket Walk: Kreuzberg featuring things such as goat’s cheese, dumplings, mustard kitchen uses fresh vegetables and herbs that are fl own loud music and draw on Kreuzberg is best explored in two parts. From Platz der sauce and compotes.QG-5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Kreuzberg, in from Bangkok; all the Thai classics are present. There’s the walls. By now, the pro- Luftbrücke station walk west to Viktoriapark and climb the MU Prinzenstraße, tel. +49 30 692 33 00, www.altes- seating indoors and in the basement room, as well as outside. Ask if you like it hot.QF-5, Bergmannstraße testing students of 1968 Kreuzberg for views north over the city. Descend eastwards zollhaus.com. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. M have grown grey alongside and walk along genteel Bergmannstraße, perhaps TUGBW 88, Kreuzberg, U Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 691 26 40, www.pagode-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - the Turkish immigrants. Every year since 1987, Kreuzberg visiting a café or the market hall, before walking south to VBS relives its 15 minutes of fame during the traditional May Columbiadamm for access to the the former 24:00. €. Day political demonstrations, which invariably turn into a airport, now a wonderful park. ASIAN long night of stone-throwing and burning cars. Otherwise, Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg CHAN KIMCHI PRINCESS Kreuzberg is a perfectly safe district to wander through, and at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through A sleek eatery with large pastel paintings of faces, clean- Though this is not Berlin’s fi rst Korean restaurant, Kimchi it’s all about backgammon at the men’s clubs, café-sitting ‘little ’ to Oranienplatz and follow the park to cut design, and a surprising menu consisting of typical Princess is being hailed by the capital’s gourmets as the along Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular Ora- the Engelbecken pond where you can follow the former Asian street food. There’s everything from Thai spring fi rst one to serve authentic dishes – that is, not drowned nienstraße and Bergmannstraße drags. Wall along Bethaniendamm to Mariannenplatz, a centre rolls, Indonesian sate, and Cambodian noodle soup to a in cream and sauce like most Asian food here. It’s indeed This chapter also covers areas south of Kreuzberg: leafy of Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstraße to Vietnamese banana dessert. Fresh juices and smoothies excellent and spicy, and as a result it can be diffi cult to west along the river Spree, the Tempelhof café-lined Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn too.QH-5, Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42, Kreuzberg, MU fi nd a free table in the evening.QH-4, Skalitzer Straße 36, airport-turned-park which attracts thousands of visitors line to lively Görlitzer Park. From here, go north into Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 69 53 33 22, www.chan- Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 163 458 02 in summer, and the upcoming Neukölln district. Here, Falckensteinstraße to discover more of Kreuzberg’s street berlin.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. 03, www.kimchiprincess.com. Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€. the Kreuzkölln area around Reuterstraße is increasingly art, or head south along Ohlauer Straße and across €€. UNGBSW TUGBSW attracting hipsters, artists, artsy boutiques and weird Landwehrkanal into the trendy ‘Kreuzkölln’ district for nightlife spots. cupcakes and cocktails.

p . nt e m el e bastianstr. b am er Zimmerstr x n ei l mm Charlie s b A t A r. Stallschreiberstr nn da o G Melchiorstr.Ada H n rd M I e Wilhelmstr. n e er er st Engeld i Köpenicker ü . r. n h Rudi-Dutschke-Str.Markgrafenstr. a Charlottenstr. l Kochstr. Oranienstr. th e Dresdener Str. Engeldamm e Spree n Kochstr. U B s Heinrich-H tr . -H Friedrichstr. B Str. er etha . lt . niendamm M Str. Eas Ritterstr. Moritzplatz t Mariannen- Sid er Bahnhof U Waldemarstr. Köpenicker Str. Lindenstr. platz Legiendamm Pücklerstr. Leuschnerdamm ese 4 Eisenbahnstr. sse Oranien- Wrangelstr emannstre er-Str. Lobeckstr. nstl Naunynstr. Muskauer Str. Kü platz Manteuffelstr. r.- Adalbert- str. Waldemarstr. F Ritterstr. Oranienstr. . Schlesisches Lindenstr. Franz-Klühs-Str. Alte Jakob Str. . Neuenburger Str Prinzenstr. damm Zeughofstr. Wassertorstr. damm Heinrich Lausitzer ckernbrücke Reichen- - platz Platz . Kottbusser Tor Str es Mehring- Alexandrinenstr. U Skalitzer Str. U Lobeckstr. Wassertor- fer platz U Str. Spreewald- platz Skalitzer Kottbusserberger Str. Görlitzer Bahnhof . itschiner Str. U Gitschiner Str. . platz Lübbener Str. Hallesches Tor U G Oppelner o Prinzenstr. Wiener Str. GörlitzerSorauer Str. Str. terlo Str enstr Wa Böckler- Str. F

Ufer Segitz- . Görlitzer m Joh - Mariannenstr. str. Zossener an park ite Erkelenz- ReichenbergerLausitzer Str. Str. rs Admiralstr.

m tr Park B . Manteuffelstr a l Blücherstr. ü . d ch fer Mehring- U g e Fraenkelu r str. . Wiener damm st ufer rin r. Tempelherren Plan Ohlauer Str. h Baerwaldstr. Maybachufer St e Baruther Str. Paul-Lincke-Ufer Reichenberger Str. Urbanstr. Graefestr. Str. M str. Forster Str rckstr. Str. Dieffenbachstr. r str. Schönleinstr. U Gneisenaustr. Kottbusser Bürknerstr.Damm Solmsstr. KREUZBERG 5 Zossener Str. Mittenwalder Liegnitzer Str Blücherstr. Sanderstr. Maybachufer Gneisenaustr. Grimm- Str. m Manitiusstr. Glogauer Graefestr. m U Ratiborstr. a Baerwaldstr. Fichtestr. Pflügerstr. Hobrechtstr. d Friedelstr. Nostitz- Gneisenaustr. Fontane- g Schönleinstr. . Str. promenade n Solmsstr. Körtestr. i Bergmannstr. NEUKÖLLN r Zossener Schleiermacherstr. U Südstern Urbanstr. Friedelstr. h Pflügerstr. Nansenstr. e Bergmannstr. Arndtstr. Graefestr.

Reuterstr. M K i e h W.-Alexis- Str. Hasenheide Jahnstr. Weserstr. Pannierstr. lu . f Hermann- e Fidicinstr. Heimstr. W r platz Rütlistr. eiga U Platz der Luftbrücke Jüterboger Str. Tellstr. nd Schwiebusser Str. Hermannplatz U

Friesenstr r. W St Karl-Marx-Str. Weichselstr.eserstr.Fuldastr. er He Züllichau Volkspark tr r m lbes Platz der Columbiadamm Hasenheide Mainzer Sonnenall E a hel Luftbrücke n Hanns angel n . 0tr 500D 1000 m s S - ona t - Wissmannstr. ost r T n R Eisl ust ee Col h n 48 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 49 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg RIEHMERS The elegant and understated Riehmers restaurant serves a fantastic Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal escalope), amongst seasonal dishes like roast pike perch and crepes with roast apricots. The dining room is kept bare and simple, while the calm summer terrace in the garden overlooks a historic apartment complex for Prussian offi cers.QF-5, Hagelbergerstraße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80, www.riehmers- restaurant.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. €€-€€€. Sarod’s TGBSW SAROD’S Kreuzberg’s friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent, healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options FAST FOOD on the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat who work the stand. Other proletarian Berlin specialities GORGONZOLA CLUB with roast rice, coriander and spices). There’s a good BERGMANN CURRY you can take to the stand-up outdoor tables are the fried An In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest selection of wines too.QFriesenstraße 22, Kreuzberg, A friendly fast food joint with qual- burgers, Boulette.QF-5, Mehringdamm 36, Kreuzberg, carpaccio we’ve had, and with lovely seating in the green MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www. ity organic Currywurst, fries, meat MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 251 73 68, www. outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas sarods.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. balls and more. The menus include curry36.de. Open 09:00 - 05:00. €. S and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there are TGBSW the upmarket ‘Rockefella’ dish additional changing dinner options too. For after-dinner (served on porcelain, with a glass cocktails simply go next door to the Würgeengel bar.QH- of champagne), and there’s vegan INTERNATIONAL 4, Dresdener Straße 121, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, AUSTRIAN wurst and burgers, and sweet HOPPETOSSE tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www.gorgonzolaclub.de. Open potato chips too. If you dare, ask for a drop of searing hot B AUSTRIA Q An elegant white ship moored along Treptow’s Arena 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. €. Have your Wiener Schnitzel and Salzburger Fritattatorte chilli sauce from the bottles on the ‘board of pain’. Berg- complex serves a small range of excellent-value regional where they do it right, here in Austria. This corner mannstraße 88, tel. +49 50 56 51 54, www.bergmann- and international meals to go with good sunset views restaurant is known for its huge portions, so indulge in curry.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. towards Oberbaumbrücke bridge, just upstream. For More reviews online: the full experience or go for the half portion. The setting daytime visitors there’s drinks, lunch and cakes too. Sit berlin.inyourpocket.com is appropriatly alpine with heavy wooden furnishings and CURRY 36 up on deck to catch the sea breeze.QI-5, Eichenstraße antlers on the wall.QF-5, Bergmannstraße 30, Kreuzberg, If you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin way, you’ll 4, Treptow, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 53 32 03 MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 694 44 40, www. order yours here boiled and naked. It looks a little pale in 40, www.arena-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €-€€. austria-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00. €€. TUBS comparison to the ones with their pink skins on, but you NGBSW might earn an iota of respect from the hard-boiled Fraus JOLESCH SAGE RESTAURANT Excellent Austrian cuisine and wines in a quirky corner of If there’s such a thing as industrial charm, this is Kreuzberg. Jolesh, a classy yet good-value restaurant, is where to find it; a fantastically designed restaurant named after ‘Tante Jolesch’, a Viennese auntie who loved to with starkly modern and white furnishings cook. It serves a great Wiener Schnitzel as well as dishes like contrasting with raw factory bricks, peeling paint and goulash and Kaiserschmarrn, chopped-up pancakes with chains. The food served is imaginative gastronomy; sugar and fruit jam. Breakfast is served until 17:00, so take in summer, Sage opens earlier to serve lunch on its your time for brunch. Reservations recommended.QH-4, riverside terrace with deckchairs and a beach bar. Muskauer Straße 1, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, QH-4, Köpenicker Straße 18-20, Kreuzberg, MU Fantastic Berlinernere Currywurst,Curryw tel. +49 30 612 35 81, www.jolesch.de. Open 11:00 - Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 755 49 40 71, www. 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. €€. GB sage-restaurant.de. Open from 18:00. Closed Mon. quality organicgg,c anda veganvegag snacks, TUEGBW Jolesch €€€. andnd a rangge ofof hotoc chili sauces.s sauces ThaiThai restaurantrestaurant ITALIAN Open daily 12:00-24:00 CICCIOLINA Dedicated to divas such as Jeff Koon’s porn star ex-wife La Sundays from 14:00 Cicciolina and a host of other beauties (whose portraits Open dailyily 122:00-24:2:02 00 adorn the hallway by the toilets), this unpretentious Sunday 12:00-21:00 Italian restaurant has well-priced and very tasty food, and a great terrace. For something out of the ordinary, try Friesenstraße 22 the Strasburgo fl ammkuchen pizza with cream, mustard Bergmannstraße 88 and Tirol bacon.QH-4, Spreewaldplatz 5, Kreuzberg, tel. 69 50 73 33 traditional healthy Thai cuisine MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 65 71 60, Berlin-Kreuzberg www.cicciolina-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €-€€. www.sarods.de fresh and dainty TUNGBSW www.bergmann-currry.com

50 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 51 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg OSTERIA N°1 Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fi xture has a fantastic Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive trees. Classic regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from diff erent parts of Italy, and everything is made fresh to order. Order a pasta with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange sauce. Perhaps the most child-friendly place in town, too. Choose from six diff erent lunch menus from €7.QF-5, Kreuzbergstraße 71, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 786 91 62, www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. B

Vicolo Bergmann

VICOLO BERGMANN Tasty Sicilian food is served at this rustic restaurant on the sunny side of the street. Fresh quality meat, seafood and vegetables are used to make the authentic pastas, pizzas or the meat and fi sh dishes, and there’s home-made bread too. The small uncluttered space with randomly exposed bricks is decorated with newspaper cuttings. Don’t miss the Park, Columbiadamm entrance, tel. +49 152 22 55 91 SALON SCHMÜCK sinfully sweet Sicilian desserts.QF-5, Bergmannstraße 88, 75, www.luftgarten-berlin.de. Open from 12:00 until A crash-pad style neighbourhood café that looks like a Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 69 00 44 88, around sunset. €. UENGBS time-warp from the 1970s with its funky furniture. The food [email protected], www.vicolo-bergmann.de. is fresh however, and you can dig into breakfast, lunch and Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. fantastic home-made juice – just make your own selection CAFÉS of fruit. Come evening and there are cocktails and DJs, and CAFÉ AM ENGELBECKEN even the occasional living room concert.QI-4, Skalitzer BEER GARDENS Opposite the impressive, partially-restored St. Michael’s church Straße 80, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 LUFTGARTEN is a pond, sunk into a depressed parkway that was once a canal. 30 69 00 47 75, www.salon-schmueck.de. Open 09:00 - The large Biergarten around the former US offi cer’s casino Hidden away at the reedy edge of the pond is a sunny terrace 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 05:00. €. TNGBSW in Tempelhofer Freiheit park has Bavarian beer, tables café. View of the water and the rustling tall green reeds makes beneath the chestnut trees and deckchairs in the sun. this a peaceful respite from all things city while still being near WELTRESTAURANT MARKTHALLE Drop by for the American barbeque, large hamburgers the heart of Kreuzberg (and can you believe this area was once Q Within a historic market hall Osteria N°1 and other international food. Tempelhofer Freiheit fi lled with rubble, and part of the Wall’s death strip?). Pizza and building, the rustic Markthalle snacks are served and they off er a choice of cocktails.QH-4, M restaurant is long and tall, with Michaelkirchplatz, Mitte, U Heinrich-Heine-Straße, tel. wainscoting, simple wooden +49 157 88 94 70 91, www.cafe-am-engelbecken.de. Open TUNGBSW furniture and a bar that locals belly 10:00 - 24:00. €. up to. It’s a restaurant that doesn’t let its looks carry it: the kitchen KUCHENKAISER takes pride in its nouvelle takes A melting pot for Berliners, their friends and visitors since 1866, on German and Austrian standards. The menu changes the “cake emperor” is famous for its cakes and tarts, which were weekly, but count on Spätzle, Schweinebraten (braised sent exclusively by the Hindenburg to New York in the 1920s. pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from Russian to The restaurant also has a wide variety of German specialities American-style, and as late as 16:00. After dinner, check and international dishes. There’s a great choice of breakfasts, if anything is going down in the Auster Club in the cellar. a low-cost lunch, and a huge brunch on Sundays. A must- Q M Q M H-4, Pücklerstraße 34, Kreuzberg, U Görlitzer see in Berlin. G/H-4, Oranienplatz 11-13, Kreuzberg, U Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 617 55 02, www.weltrestaurant- Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 61 40 26 97, www.kuchenkaiser.de. markthalle.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. B Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€. B

52 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 53 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg were headquartered in this area, and discusses their Nightlife Sightseeing organisation and the terror they cast across Europe. BERLIN IN BOOKS The most important lesson to take home is perhaps that these organisation only managed to thrive thanks The young, snap-happy American BARS MUSEUMS to the continuous cooperation of many institutes student and artist Will McBride GALANDER DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM and citizens. Set aside 2-3 hours to do it justice.QF-4, (1931) arrived in West Berlin in A wonderfully classic bar, furnished with 1920s-style One of Berlin’s best museums is unmistakably recognisable Niederkirchnerstraße 8, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, 1955, and set about capturing the fauteuils and woodwork. Apart from beer, Galander by the Douglas C-47 plane suspended above the main tel. +49 30 25 45 09 50, www.topographie.de. Open post-war awakening of the city has an excellent selection of wine and can mix some building. The huge complex set in and around an old 10:00 - 20:00. Admission free. in black and white photos. Until quite unusual cocktails for you. Occasionally the piano is freight station rail depot has planes, trains, cars, bikes, the construction of the Berlin played too. Recommended for a quality night out.QF-4, computers, phones, radios and much more. Outside there Wall in 1961, the sky seemed the Grossbeerenstraße 54, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, are windmills and a brewery. There’s a hands-on Spectrum PARKS & GARDENS limit for the city, and McBride crossed from West to East tel. +49 30 28 50 90 30, www.galander-berlin.de. Open science centre for children too.QF-4, Trebbiner Straße TEMPELHOFER FREIHEIT observing the progress of the Wiederaufbau (rebuilding), 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. E 9, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 40, Where else can you run for fi ve minutes with your eyes as well as the building of the Wall. Now, 120 of his photos www.sdtb.de. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. closed? Berlin’s most amazing space is this historic and taken between 1956 and 1963 have been collected in MILCHBAR Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,5. wide open airport just south of Kreuzberg, which closed Berlin im Aufbruch (‘Berlin’s Renaissance’). What makes this It is the foam of beer that lines the upper lip of patrons of in 2008 and was opened as a park in 2010. Now the book so special is that rather than documenting the city Milchbar, home to punks, students, and aging alternative HAUS AM CHECKPOINT CHARLIE runways and taxi lanes are used by bikers, inline skaters from a safe distance, McBride is ‘present’ in the photos, types still loyal to the sounds of punk, ska, thrash, and A homespun Great Escape museum of false trunks, tools, and kiteboarders; the fi elds around them are used by as a participant in the depicted events, getting close to hard rock. The crowd is not so anarchic as to not want to videos, even a submarine, and stills of tunnel-digging attest rare breeding skylarks (from April-July), picnickers, workers constructing a road, women chipping mortar off cheer on their teams when football games are screened. to necessity and desire being the mother of invention. barbecuers, artists, kite-fl yers, gardeners and dog- bricks from bombed buildings, playing children, rock ‘n The and dark décor can heighten your wooziness if Visit this museum for dramatic stories of separated lovers, walkers. There’s even a Biergarten at the northern end. roll dancers and fellow students riding a horse cart. In one you’ve had one round too many.QH-4, Manteuff elstraße freedom-seeking families, and fed-up senior citizens in Note that turnstiles allow exit from the park after closing photo McBride is literally present when he catches himself 41, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 611 the GDR who breached the Wall. The museum also has art time as well. Also easily accessed from U-Bahn stations in the refl ection of a mirror in a café, while focussing his 70 06, www.milchbar-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - 04:00. interpreting the concrete division of the city, and an exhibit Tempelhof and Boddinstrasse.QF/G-6, Columbiadamm, Leica on an animated group of women. It’s remarkable NBW on human rights movements.QF-4, Friedrichstraße 43- MS/U Tempelhof, www.tempelhoferfreiheit.de. Open how timeless the themes and people are; the party in the 45, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 251 20 75, March 06:00-19:00, April & Sept 06:00-20:30, May & back yard, the people at the beach and the students on WÜRGEENGEL www.mauermuseum.de. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission Aug 06:00-21:30, June & July 06:00-22:30, Oct 07:00- the boat trip – they are us, this is now, 50 years ago. Pronounced woor-ge-en-gel and named after Bunuel’s €12,50/9,50. 19:00, Dec, Jan 07:30-17:00, Feb & Nov 07:00-18:00. ‘Berlin im Aufbruch; Fotografi en 1956-1963’ fi lm El Ángel Exterminador, this dark brown bar is a Admission free. (Lehmstedt Verlag 2013, ISBN 9783942473675) by Will great place for a drink and a snack. The tapas list has a JÜDISCHES MUSEUM BERLIN McBride is for sale at Dussmann for €29.90, and can be dozen tasty options, while the cocktail menu has over 50 The famous zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel VIKTORIAPARK ordered at any other bookshop. reasons to delay your departure. To round it all off , there Libeskind contains a moving perspective on the many Before heading up the hill, crowned with Karl Friedrich Q are Cuban and other cigars to enjoy. H-4, Dresdener ways in which German life and Jewish history are Schinkel’s memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, go to An exhibition dedicated to Will McBride’s Berlin years M Straße 122, Kreuzberg, U Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 intricately interwoven. The interior contains dark ‘voids’ for the corner of Kreuzbergstraße and Großbeerenstraße opens in C/O Gallery on 30 October; see p. 39. 615 55 60, www.wuergeengel.de. Open from 19:00. contemplation, but the exhibits cover much more than for an eyeful of the park’s waterfall, constructed in €€. B the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history in Germany.QF- the late 19th century. Kids stripped to their knickers 4, Lindenstraße 9-14, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, wade in between the shallow, tiered levels. 65 metres MARKTHALLE IX tel. +49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. Open 10:00 above, people lean back against the graffiti-laden Everything you need for a picnic in Görlitzer Park. A historical CLUBS - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €5/2,50, special monument to take in the panoramic view. Towards market hall from 1891 has been revived with a weekly SO36 exhibitions €4/2, combined ticket €7/3,50. the back of the park, past a playground and off the market (Fri, Sat), selling organic fruit and vegetables, cheese, Live bands perform nearly every night at this institution Bacci field, is the Golgotha beer garden. Running bread, meat and smoked fi sh. There are snack stands with that’s home to any alternative lifestyle, from gay Turks MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU parallel to Kreuzbergstraße is a small petting zoo picnic tables, a children’s corner and a restaurant that and metal heads to hardcore punks and goth vegans. Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this where children and goats get to meet and bleat.QF-5, serves a delicious organic lunch menu every day. The busy On popular club nights, like the Ugly X Taste Party or is the work of Great Uncle Gropius, not Walter ‘Bauhaus’ Kreuzbergstraße, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm. Streetfood Thursday has hipsters showing up in droves, and Gayhane, show up before 01:00 or face a long wait with the Gropius. Completed in 1881, the beauty once held an there’s breakfast on Sunday and occasional crafts and deli friendly door staff .QH-4, Oranienstraße 190, Kreuzberg, arts and crafts museum. Today the Martin-Gropius-Bau market days too.QH-4, Eisenbahnstraße 42, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 40 13 06, www. hosts excellent touring exhibitions. Until 10 August: David Shopping MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 577 09 46 61, www. so36.de. Check their website for opening times. Bowie.QF-4, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U markthalle9.de. Open Fri, Sat 10:00-18:00. Admission free. UENG Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau. de. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. MARKETS WILD AT HEART MARHEINEKEHALLE SOUVENIRS & GIFTS Rock on. One of Berlin’s rare live-music venues brings in TOPOGRAPHIE DES TERRORS The old Markthalle XI from 1892 is now an upmarket and HERRLICH hardcore and punk bands touring the planet. There’s an Beside a souvenir-ravaged stretch of Wall, the cellars slightly sterile venue for the organic market with about Set the ladies loose in the mall; men will fi nd what they occasional DJ night as well. Booths and seating in the front are all that remain of the palace housing the Reich 50 stalls selling everything from bread to cheese and really need at Herrlich, a quirky men’s gift shop stocking rooms make conversation manageable. Bring earplugs Security (SS) Offi ce. The fascinating exhibition in the fruit, much of it from the region.QF-5, Marheinekeplatz, body care products, clothing accessories, barbecue for the stage area.QH-5, Wiener Straße 20, Kreuzberg, trench and the adjacent pavilion and park uses models, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, www.meine- gear and essential gadgets.QF-5, Bergmannstraße 2, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 610 74 701, www. texts and photos to highlight the topography of the markthalle.de. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 784 53 95, wildatheartberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 04:00. ENB Third Reich police, military and security groups that Closed Sun. www.herrlich-online.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

54 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 55 City tours City tours stencil art, street artists like and Mr.6, the INBERLIN TOURS gay scene, and the squatter and anti-fascist movements. Specialised walking tours for small groups: along the Wall BERLINER UNTERWELTEN E.V. Knowledgeable resident artists poke at Berlin’s dark, in Mitte or Treptow, or through the Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer Society for the Exploration and Documentation of Subterranean Architecture fuzzy underbelly on a variety of walks; there are also Berg, or Friedrichshain districts. Tours take place at fi xed free short walks (daily at 11:00 and 13:00), twilight times and days, or made to suit your needs; reservations tours, a street art workshop and an ‘anti-pubcrawl’. required.Qtel. +49 174 157 48 36, [email protected], QMS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 162 819 82 64, www. www.inberlin.de. Tickets €10-16. Berlin from below alternativeberlin.com. Tickets €10-20. INSIDER TOURS Cold War and WW II bunker tours ANITA SIKORA’S BERLIN WALKS Insider’s enthusiastic guides go a long way to make you feel Different tours every day • see: www.berliner-unterwelten.de The walking tours by guide and artist Anita Sikora off er a like an insider on the daily 4-hour tours; starting from AMT Subway: Gesundbrunnen (U8), southern entrance-hall • Brunnenstraße 105 wide choice of topics, ranging from and Walter Coff ee at Hackescher Markt (10:30 and 15:00, €12/10). Other Benjamin themed tours, walks around the district, tours are the Wall, Third Reich, Sachsenhausen, Potsdam, to the Wall’s course through the industrial ‘Fireland’ district. Jewish Berlin and a pub crawl.QG-3, MS Hackescher There’s a story on every corner in Berlin, though you’ll need CITY CIRCLE BUSES Join a regular group walk or book a private tour.Qtel. +49 Markt, tel. +49 30 692 31 49, www.insidertour.com. a guide to hear it. It’s a huge, fascinating city, but lacks a real Several tour bus companies operate hop-on hop-off 176 68 60 16 63, [email protected], www.anita- Old Town-type area. Attractions are fairly far-fl ung, so plan double-decker bus City Circle tours lasting 2.5 hours. sikora.com. Tours €9. ISHERWOOD’S NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR your itinerary and get acquainted with the excellent public Buses run every 10 minutes, with narration in a dozen In the 1920s Berlin was a veritable ‘Sodom on the Spree’ transportation. If you’re here for a limited amount of time, languages. Kurfürstendamm 220 and Alexanderplatz are BERLIN LOCALS with 85,000 lesbians, open prostitution and an outrageous we highly recommend you join one of the walking or the two main starting points, but you can get on and off at Tailor-made private city tours on foot, by minibus or by club and revue theatre scene. The young gay British writer cycling tours to get your bearings and see the main sights. some 20 stops. Besides Berolina, the operators are Berliner limo, lead by local German historians who can often relate Christopher Isherwood wove his experiences in Goodbye Bären Stadtrundfahrt (www.bbsberlin.de), BEX Sightseeing historical events to their family’s personal experience. Tour To Berlin (of Cabaret fame). This excellent one-hour tour (www.berlinerstadtrundfahrten.de) and Bus Verkehr themes range from The 1920s, Cold War and Third Reich through Isherwood’s Berlin around Nollendorfplatz is BUS, CAR & PLANE TOURS Berlin (www.bvb.net).Qtel. +49 30 88 56 80 30, www. to street art, railways and architecture. The guides are also spiced up with quotes and references to notorious 1920s BERLIN CITY TOUR berolina-berlin.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets €22/11. licenced for Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Tours are party-goers like Anita Berber and Marlene Dietrich.QD- Open-top doubledecker buses circle the main sights in about Afternoon ticket (from 13:30) €16,50/11. in English or German.Qtel. +49 177 238 00 02, info@ 4/5, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 151 25 22 03 42, two hours; the green ones have live English commentary; berlinlocals.com, www.berlinlocals.com. Tours €40 per [email protected], www.cabaret-berlin.com. red ones have audioguides. Board at Kurfürstendamm 14, hour, €250 per day. Tours Sat at 11:00, and on demand. Book ahead. Tickets the Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor and hop-on or hop-off WALKING & CYCLING TOURS €12. as you like. There’s also a narrated ‘Wall & Lifestyle’ tour taking ALTERNATIVE BERLIN TOURS BREWER’S BERLIN in the main Wall sights and some trendy districts.Qtel. +49 After the 4-hour Real Berlin tour (daily at 12:00, €12) The 6-hour Best of Berlin (10:30) and the 3-hour Express NEW BERLIN TOURS 30 68 30 26 41, www.berlin-city-tour.de. Tickets €15/12/5. you’ll know all about Berlin’s subcultures, the graffi ti and (13:00, tip only) tours are great introductions to the Free 3,5-hour city centre tours, popular with young city. Potsdam tours take place on Wed and Sat (09:20). visitors who are just as interested in each other as in the The meeting point for all tours is the Brooks ice sights along the route (daily 11:00 and 13:00 from the BERLIN UNDERWORLDS Tour 1: Dark Worlds – A bunker from the Nazi era. Mar- cream shop near Friedrichstraße station; no bookings Brandenburger Tor Starbucks). They additionally off er are required.QF-3, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 various themed tours and pub crawls.QF-3, Pariser Platz, Nov Mon 11:00 and 13:00, Wed-Sun 11:00; Dec-Feb Mon M 11:00 and 13:00, Thu-Sun 11:00. 177 388 15 37, www.brewersberlintours.com. Tickets Mitte, S/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 51 05 00 30, Tour 2: From Flak Towers to Mountains of Debris. €15/12. www.newberlintours.com. Tickets free/€12. Enter a devastated albeit fascinating underground world. Apr 1 - Oct 31, Thu-Sun 16:00. CITY SEGWAY TOURS ORIGINAL BERLIN WALKS Tour 3: Subways, Bunkers, Cold War – a political his- Hop on a self-balancing Segway scooter and - after The daily 3,5-hour Discover Berlin tour starts at the tory of Berlin from an unusual perspective. Mar-Nov Tues a short driving lesson - zip around Berlin on the four- Weihenstephaner restaurant on Hackescher Markt at 10.30 11:00 and 13:00, Wed-Sun 13:00; Dec-Feb Thu-Sun 13:00. hour general tours (10:00 and 15:00, €67), or the shorter and 14:00. Check online for themed tours like Third Reich, afternoon tour (15:00, €43). Drivers license required.QG-3, Cold War, Queer Berlin, Jewish Berlin and Potsdam.Qtel. +49 Tour M – Breaching the Berlin Wall: Subterranean M escapes from East to West Berlin. Mar-Nov, Sun 10:30. Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, S/U Alexanderplatz, tel. 30 301 91 94, www.berlinwalks.de. Tickets €12/10. +49 30 24 04 79 91, [email protected], www. For further information see www.berliner-unterwelten. The Berlin Underworlds Association allows you to citysegwaytours.com. SLOW TRAVEL BERLIN TOURS de. Tickets €10/8, Tour M €13/10 (no reservation The Berlin blog dedicated to ‘slow travel’ off ers quirky experience Berlin´s history from an unusual perspective, required); the meeting point is at the southern entrance through its underground installations dating back to the FAT TIRE BIKE TOURS cultural-historical tours. In small groups you explore Berlin’s of the Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station at Brunnenstraße Grab a bike at the base of the TV Tower and spin most fascinating districts. Join a literary stroll in West Cold War, World War II, or earlier. Though predominantly 105, tel. +49 30 49 91 05 17. in the spaces below Berlin´s Gesundbrunnen station, through town on the relaxed 4,5 hour daily city tour Berlin, a walk on Kreuzberg’s wild west side, a trip along (11:00, from May also 16:00), the Wall tour (Mon, Thu, the Wall, down lively Potsdamer Strasse, or march through tours are also off ered in several other complexes that Q are usually not accessible to the public. With prior Sat at 10:30), the Third Reich tour (Wed, Fri, Sun at Kaiser Wilhelm’s Berlin. www.slowtravelberlin.com/ notifi cation, tours can be arranged for groups of 10:30) and the Raw tour (counter culture; Tue, Fri, Sun tours. Tickets €15. minimum 20 people at other times. at 10:30); these tours cost €24/22 and no booking is required. Call or email ahead for the Potsdam tour.QG- The following tours are held in English; they also take M More reviews online: place in German and Spanish at other times, and various 3, Panoramastraße 1a (Fernsehturm), Mitte, S/U tours are held in Dutch, French, Italian and Danish. Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 24 04 79 91, www. berlin.inyourpocket.com fattirebiketoursberlin.com.

56 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket October - November 2014 57 Potsdam Directory FILMPARK Over 3,000 fi lms have been shot at the famous Babelsberg ACCOUNTANTS EMERGENCY NUMBERS UFA/DEFA studios, including Fritz Lang’s Metropolis (1927). The ERNST & YOUNG QFriedrichstraße 140, Mitte, themepark surrounding the studios is great for children and MS+U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 25 47 10, www. Emergencies, ambulance, fi re tel. +49 30 112; adults. Though the topics may be unfamiliar to foreigners, ey.com. Emergency doctor service tel. +49 30 31 00 31; there’s enough action to keep you amused, including stunt, Police tel. +49 30 110; animal and pirate shows, studio tours and ‘behind the scenes’ KPMG QKlingelhöferstraße 18, Tiergarten, MU Non-urgent police matters tel. +49 30 46 64 46 64. insights into special eff ects through the years. There’s an English- Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 206 80, www.kpmg.de. language audioguide too. From Babelsberg S-Bahn station take bus N°601 or 690; alternatively take the RE train to Medienstadt NÖRR STIEFENHOFER LUTZ QCharlottenstraße 57, IRELAND QF-3, Jägerstraße 51, Mitte, MU Babelsberg station and walk.QGroßbeerenstraße, Potsdam, Mitte, MU Französiche Straße, tel. +49 30 20 94 20 00, Hausvogteiplatz, tel. +49 30 22 07 20, www. MS Babelsberg, tel. +49 331 721 27 50, www.fi lmpark. www.noerr.de. embassyofi reland.de. de. Open 10:00-18:00. Sept closed Mon. Nov-Mar closed. Admission €21/17, children €14. PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS QLeise-Meitner- NEW ZEALAND QF-3, Friedrichstraße 60, Mitte, MU Straße 1, Charlottenburg, MU Mierendorff platz, tel. Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 206 210, www.nzembassy.com. Part of Berlin’s charm is its proud grittiness, but don’t chide SCHLOSS CECILIENHOF +49 30 263 60, www.pwc.com. yourself for being bourgeois if it gets to you - it got on Twentieth-century history was made here in August 1945 QF-3, Wilhelmstraße 70-71, the nerves of Frederick II the Great too. The ruler of Berlin when Stalin, Truman and Attlee decided the future of postwar Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 45 70, and all Prussia from 1740 to 1786 built his favorite abode Germany. This half-timber mansion between two lakes in the BUSINESS CONNECTIONS www.britischebotschaft.de. , outside Berlin in the town of Potsdam. Neuer Garten was fi nished in 1917. In the same park is the AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE ‘Without a worry’ was the French name of his palace, though Marmorpalais. From station take QCharlottenstraße 42, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, thanks to considerable care taken by its architect Georg tram N°92 or 96 to Reiterweg/Alleestraße, then bus N°603 tel. +49 30 28 87 89 20, www.amcham.de. HOSPITALS Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff , craftsmen, and artisans, it is to Schloß Cecilienhof.QIm Neuen Garten 11, Potsdam, BENJAMIN FRANKLIN CLINICAL CENTRE hailed as the Versailles of Germany. Sanssouci was intended tel. +49 331 969 42 00, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. DEUTSCHE INDUSTRIE-UND HANDELSKAMMER QKlingsorstraße, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz, tel. as a summer residence, and though Friedrich stretched out Closed Mon. Nov-Mar open until 17:00. Admission €6/5. (CHAMBER OF COMMERCE) QBreite Straße 29, +49 30 84 45 30 15, www.medizin.fu-berlin.de. the seasons he spent here, tourists don’t have the same Mitte, MU Märkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 20 30 80, privilege: many buildings close between mid-October and SCHLOSS SANSSOUCI www.dihk.de. CHARITÉ UNIVERSITÄTSKLINIKUM QF-3, April. The best attractions are open through winter - Park The 18th century rococo-style Schloss Sanssouci (‘without Schumannstraße 20-21, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, Sanssouci’s Schloss Sanssouci and Neues Palais; and the worries’) has a gorgeous approach up a fl ight of vineyard tel. +49 30 45 050, www.charite.de. Neuer Garten’s Marmorpalais and Schloss Cecilienhof. terraces. Frederick the Great loved his little ‘Prussian Arcadia’ DENTISTS Besides the palaces and parks, the compact town’s centre, and was buried on here at his own request. The original DR. SUSANNE MÜNCHBERG QFasanen Straße 72, half faded and half restored, makes for a pleasant stroll. The palace rooms and guest apartments host works by Rubens, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 63 85. LANGUAGE SCHOOLS Kolonie Alexandrowka is in a park along Puschkinallee, Van Dyck and Caravaggio. The palace sits within the 290 BERLITZ MITTE QF-3, Friedrichstraße 95, Mitte, south of the rise to the Belevedere. Quaintly enough, the hectares of Park Sanssouci, which holds a botanical garden, an DR. WOLF-ULRICH KLOTZ QBayreuther Straße 8, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 204 21 24, www. log cabins here were built in 1826 for a 12-member Russian Orangerie, , the Chinese House, the Neues Palais, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 213 10 10. berlitz.de/de/berlin_mitte. choir who had helped the Prussians fi ght Napoleon. Most and ’s Schloss Charlottenhof, whose of the boys got homesick and eventually left. The redbrick interior is perhaps the best preserved example of Schinkel’s GLS QG-2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Holländisches Viertel (Dutch quarter) is another failed work. Each sight has its own separate admission charge and DOCTORS Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 78 00 89 16, www.gls- settlement, but a great place to get a meal and browse in changing exhibits. The hilltop Belvedere auf dem Pfi ngstberg DR. ALEXANDRA HEISER QKurfürstendamm 139, german-courses.de. some shops. Friedrich Wilhelm I built the small district in is a romantic folly lookout tower completed in 1863. On busy Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 89 00 the 1730s to attract Dutch craftsmen. days arrive early to secure tour tickets, or join the tourism 91 01. offi ce’s Sanssouci tour which includes the palace even when MOVING TO BERLIN Potsdam basics day tickets are sold out. From Potsdam Hauptbahnhof station DR. KARIN WROBEL QSchönhauser Allee 126 A, The following companies can help with every aspect of Potsdam is a short ride on the S-Bahn from central Berlin. take bus N°612, 614 or 695.QMaulbeerallee, Potsdam, tel. Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 relocation, including moving, permits, accommodation, More information: Postdam Tourist Information, Am Alten +49 331 969 42 00, www.spsg.de. Open Apr-Oct 10:00- 448 57 67. language courses and getting to know the local Markt 5, tel. +49 331 275 58 20, www.potsdam.de. 18:00, Nov-Mar 10:00-17:00; park open 06:00-dusk. community. Admission €12/8, park free or voluntary donation. DR. MICHAEL OPPEL QDerffl ingerstraße 14, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 44 72 81 ANKE FREUDE RELOCATION SERVICES POTSDAM SIGHTS SPIELBANK POTSDAM 28, www.integrative-medizin.com. QMesselstraße 23, MU Podbielskiallee, tel. +49 30 39 FILMMUSEUM POTSDAM Together with many other imposing buildings in the area, the 79 38 16, [email protected], www.fi rst-relocating.de. Featuring the history of the nearby Babelsberg fi lm studios building housing the Potsdam Spielbank Joker’s Garden casino and with changing exhibitions on the world of fi lm, since 2002 was designed by Frederick the Great’s master builder EMBASSIES ARRIVA RELOCATION QLeibnizstraße 60, MS possibly the best thing about this museum are the evening Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff in the 1750s. Restored to AUSTRALIA QG-3, Wallstraße 76-79, Mitte, MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 32 77 43 11, info@arriva- screenings of modern and classic international fi lms. Silent its former glory, the elegant building now is the venue for card Märkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 880 08 80, www. relocation.de, www.arriva-relocation.de. fi lms are accompanied live by an antique cinema organ. games, roulette and playing machines. Minimum age 18. Dress australian-embassy.de. The Film Café serves drinks and food.QMarstall am code: smart, jacket required (rental available).QSchloßstraße FIRST RELOCATING QKissinger Str. 67, MS Lustgarten/ Breite Straße 1a, MS Potsdam Hbf, tel. +49 14, Potsdam, MS Potsdam Hbf, tel. +49 331 290 93 00, FRANCE QF-3, Pariser Platz 5, Mitte, MS/U Hohenzollerndamm, tel. +49 30 826 14 51, info@fi rst- 331 27 18 12, www.fi lmmuseum-potsdam.de. Open www.spielbank-potsdam.de. Open 17:30 - 03:00. Access to Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 590 03 90 00, www. relocating.de, www.fi rst-relocating.de/. 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4,50/3,50. slot machines from 11:00. Admission €5. botschaft-frankreich.de.

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Index

Aapka 22 Dressler 35 Kilkenny Irish Pub 19, 24 Restauration 1900 43 Adlon Kempinski 30 Duke 35 Kimchi Princess 49 Riehmers 50 Admiralspalast 11 Einhorn 35 Knese 33 Ritz-Carlton 31 All you need to Adria 15 El Dorado 36 Knutschfleck 24 Sachiko Sushi 36 Aigner 21 Ellington Hotel 41 Koka 36 12 Sage Restaurant 51 Alexa Centre 30 English Theatre Berlin 13 Komische Oper 10 Salon Schmück 53 Alliiertenmuseum 39 Eschschloraque Rümschrümp Konnopke's Imbiß 43 San Diego Steakhouse 47 Alpenstueck 21 23 Konzerthaus Berlin 10 Sankt Oberholz 23 know about where Alte Nationalgalerie 28 Eventim 12 Kookaburra Comedy Club 14 Santiago 44 Alternative Berlin Tours 56 Facil 22 Kuchenkaiser 53 Sarod's 50 Altes Museum 28 Fat Tire Bike Tours 57 Kulturbrauerei 45 Savoy Berlin 40 Altes Zollhaus 49 Fernsehturm 30 Kunst und Nostalgiemarkt 30 Schall und Rauch 44 Anita Sikora's Berlin Walks 57 Filmmuseum Potsdam 58 La Forchetta 35 Schaubühne 14 to sleep, eat, drink, Anna Blume 44 Filmpark Babelsberg 58 Locanda 35 Schloss Cecilienhof 58 April 33 First Floor 34 Luftgarten 52 Schloss Charlottenburg 38 A-Trane 37 Fischers Fritz 22 Macondo 47 Schloss Sanssouci 58 Aufsturz 23 Fleischlust 43 Mall of Berlin 30 Schneeweiß 47 August Fengler 44 Flohmarkt am Mauerpark 45 Mandala 31 Schnitzelei 34 visit and enjoy Austria 50 Francucci's 35 Marheinekehalle 55 Schöneberger Weltlaterne 33 Babylon Mitte 15 Französischer Dom 26 Markthalle IX 55 Schwarzwaldstuben 21 Barcomi's Deli 23 Friedrichstadt-Palast 11 Marooush 36 Shakespeare & Sons 45 Bavarium 33 Führerbunker 27 Marriott 31 Slow Travel Berlin Tours 57 Bergmann Curry 50 Galander 54 Martin-Gropius-Bau 54 SO36 54 Berlin, Berlin 41 Geburtstagsklub 44 Mauerpark 45 Soda Club 45 Berlin City Tour 56 Gedächtniskirche 39 Mein Haus am See 24 Sofitel Berlin Kurfürstendamm Berliner Dom 26 Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer Memorial to the Murdered 40 Berliner Residenz Konzerte 11 28 Jews of Europe 27 Sophieneck 23 Berlinische Galerie 54 Gemäldegalerie 29 Microsoft Berlin 27 Spielbank Berlin 24 Berlin Locals 57 Gendarmenmarkt 25 Milchbar 54 Spielbank Potsdam 58 Berlin Plaza 41 Glory Duck 47 Monsieur Vuong 21 Sputnik 15 ONLINE Best Western President 41 Gorgonzola Club 51 Museum für Asiatische Kunst Staatsoper im Schillertheater Bikini Berlin 40 Grand Hotel Esplanade 41 39 11 Black Box Cold War 27 Green Door 37 Museum für Film und Suksan 34 Bleibtreu 41 Grenander Morning Glory 37 Fernsehen 29 Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm Blue Man Group 11 Gugelhof 43 Museum für Naturkunde 29 44 Borchardt 21 Hackesche Höfe 15 Mutter Hoppe 21 Swissôtel Berlin 40 Brandenburger Tor 25 Halle Tanzbühne 14 Neue Nationalgalerie 30 Sylter Hof 41 Brewer's Berlin 57 Hamburger Bahnhof 29 Neues Museum 28 tausche Taschen 45 Café am Engelbecken 53 Haus am Checkpoint Charlie Neue Synagoge 25 Tempelhofer Freiheit 55 Café am Neuen See 36 54 New Berlin Tours 57 The Harp 19, 38 Café im Literaturhaus 36 Hebbel am Ufer 14 Nikolaiviertel 25 Tiergarten 39 Cafe Kalwil 37 Hefner 37 Nola’s am Weinberg 22 Tipi am Kanzleramt 12 Central Kino 15 Hekticket 12 Olympic Stadium 38 Topographie des Terrors 54 Chan 49 Herrlich 55 Original Berlin Walks 57 Traube 22 Cicciolina 51 Hilton 30 Osteria N°1 52 Union Jack 38 CineStar IMAX & Original 15 Hinterm Horizont 12 Ottenthal 34 Vicolo Bergmann 52 City Circle Buses 56 Honigmond & Garden Hotels Pagode 49 Viktoriapark 55 City Segway Tours 57 31 Palace 40 Waldorf Astoria 41 C/O Berlin 39 Hoppetosse 51 Panoramapunkt 30 Week-End Club 24 Cupcake Berlin 47 Hotel de Rome 31 Papagena 12 Weinstein 44 Curry 36 50 Hugos 34 Paris-Moskau 22 Weltrestaurant Markthalle 53 PRINT Daimler Contemporary Berlin InBerlin Tours 57 Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz Westin Grand 31 MOBILE 28 Insider Tours 57 31 Wild at Heart 54 Dalí - The Exhibition at InterContinental 40 Pergamon Museum 28 Wintergarten Variété 12 Potsdamer Platz 28 Isherwood's Neighbourhood Pizzeria i Due Forni 44 Wohnzimmer 44 Das Stue 40 Tour 57 Potsdamer Platz 26 Würgeengel 54 Deutsche Oper Berlin 10, 14 Jolesch 50 Precise Myer's 42 Zander 43 Deutscher Dom 26 Jolly 21 Prenzlauer Berg Tourist Zillemarkt 33 Deutsches Currywurst Museum Joseph Roth Diele 21 Information Centre 44 Zille-Stube 21 28 Jüdisches Museum Berlin 54 Quatsch Comedy Club 14 Zimmermeister Brunzel's Deutsches Historisches Kaffee Burger 24 Radialsystem V 14 Mietshaus 45 Museum 12, 28 Kamala 21 Reichstag 26 Zwiebelfisch 37 Deutsches Technikmuseum 54 Kaufbar 47 Reingold 24 Zwölf Apostel 36 Diekmann 34 Kaufhaus des Westens 40 Reinhard's 22 Europe's biggest publisher of locally produced city guides Die Schule 43 Kempinski Bristol 40 Renger-Patzsch 33 Digital Eatery 23 Keule 46 Restauration 1840 21 berlin.inyourpocket.com

66 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com CineStar : Pure fascination at Sony Center. Experience the greatest blockbusters and breath-taking documentaries on Berlin´s largest screen – featuring the world‘s best 3D technique and luxurios leather seats. Select shows in the original English version. Find more info and tickets on cinestar-imax.de

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