Photographs by Joshua Scott; Styled by Mayte Allende; Prop Styling by Norine Smith at Halley Resources; Hair and make- up by Amanda Wilson; Model: Sloane at New York Models; Market Editor: Andrew Shang; Fashion Assistant: Emily Mercer Fashion. Beauty. Business. DAILY EDITION15AUGUST 2016 Spotted Get FASHION For more, see pages 4and 5. georgette top andstretch wool tuxedo pants of resort's mostspirited. Here, Monse's silk one dot pattern. print is Thehigh-visibility Nothing says like classicgraphics apolka-

case. case. $90M incybersquatting Alexander Wang awarded Web Win PAGE 3 Progress Penney's line loss. narrowed bottom trendssales anda showing improved J.C. Penney's results

PAGE 6 BY BY ● ‘Experiences’With Vegas Vendors Duel BUSINESS BY ● As ItsParent Store Macy’s With Future: What’s in Bloomingdale’s RETAIL stage. plansto unveil BigStar modern aclean, introducing onsuch newalarge businesses alsorealizedance, designers theadvantage of getawayvacation orgourmet cookinglessons. new frock orpairofshorts,rather thanona convince themto spend theirmoney ona to customers attract to ashop floorand meetings withretailers to figure out how of face-to-face will stress theimportance Fairs Stitch, —exhibitors Capsule andLiberty today —includingWWDMAGIC, Project, somehow to succeed. brands findthey, too, must combineboth the former over thelatter. such, As fashion ing number ofthemseemto beprioritizing To ofthefashion thechagrin industry, agrow sumers are inaneconomicrecovery. facing some new clothes? To buy anenjoyable experience orto buy has lostsomeofitsfashion edge in whether is Bloomingdale’sother issue asset thatThe could beontheblock. somehow, Bloomingdale’s another is properties Macy’s willcloseormonetize sourcestry say that alongwithallthe about Bloomingdale’s days. these Indus- though that’s notto say talking nooneis out oftheconversation. trends,business Bloomingdale’s was left and reported improved second-quarter keystores, selloffcertain properties closed itwould next year close100Macy Bloomingdale’s. tive officerofMacy’s Inc.,which owns Lundgren, chairmanandchiefexecu- Macy’sDoes needBloomingdale’s?

With tens ofthousands ofpeopleinatten- At Vegas the21 trade fairssetto openinLas That appears to bethepredicament con- “Saturday’s Generation” may begone, week whenLast thecorporation- dis Most certainly, according to Terry J. consumer. to appeal to adistracted fashion andnew technology strive to offer enhanced Brands at thetrade shows Bloomingdale’s a keeper. is Terry J. Lundgren says and real estatedispositions, Macy’sAmid store closings PAGE 3 acustomerhits milestone. FarfetchLuxury e-tailer A Cool Million CONTINUED ONPG. 12 CONTINUED ONPG. 11 KHANH T.L. TRAN AI MOIN DAVID 1 -

15 AUGUST 2016 3

BUSINESS and accessories. The sites shipping directly to consumers in the U.S. and other regions and many of the domain names included Alexander Wang the Alexander Wang name, for example, TOP 5 alexanderwangshoessale.com, cheapalex- anderwangbags.com. The illegal sites were designed to emulate legitimate fashion TRENDING retailers and the design of Wang’s own web ON WWD.COM Wins $90M in Case site. They accepted payment in U.S. dollars through PayPal and major credit cards. ● As part of the cybersquatting In a statement, Dennis Wang, chief prin- trial, 459 domain names were cipal officer of Alexander Wang Inc., said, “The company takes its intellectual property locked and the defendants’ rights very seriously. Protecting our brand assets frozen. requires maintaining constant vigilance on a global scale as well as taking proactive mea- BY JESSICA IREDALE sures such as sending cease and desist orders NEW YORK — The U.S. District Court for the directly to domestic and foreign counter- Southern District of New York awarded Alex- feiters as well as contacting web site servers ander Wang Inc. $90 million in damages in a that host counterfeit sites. The creativity and trademark counterfeiting and cybersquatting originality of our designs are the foundation case, Alexander Wang, et al. v. Wang Bao upon which the company is based. D/B/A Alexanderwangroccobag.com, et al. “Since the launch of the brand in 2005, As part of the ruling, 459 domain names we have collectively devoted an incalculable were locked and transferred to Alexander amount of resources — time, money, and Wang and the defendants’ assets were hard work — toward creating a trademark frozen. that is distinctive and uniquely our own. I It is the first counterfeit case that Wang am very pleased that the court recognized has pursued and won, according to a this and decided in our favor,” he added. spokesman. It is unlikely the designer will Alexander Wang The judgment was ruled under the Trade- ever be able to recover the damages since mark Counterfeiting Act. The judge found the owners of the domain names are almost unlikely to receive $90 million,” the spokes- that the defendants had purposely concealed Ronda Rousey Shows Off impossible to trace. man said. their identities and failed to comply with “The court system regularly awards very The company declined further comment. previous injunctions. Curves in Buffalo David large amounts for the symbolic significance, The case involved at least 45 defendants Alexander Wang was represented by Bitton Fall 2016 Ads as a means of deterring other individuals and operating 459 web sites that sold fake Alex- Harley Lewin and James Donoian of the firm parties. In other words, Alexander Wang is ander Wang handbags, footwear, apparel McCarter & English. ● Iconix’s denim brand aims to grow its women’s business with the UFC star, who not only RETAIL models its new line of Hope jeans but also hosts a social media Farfetch Hits 1 Million Customers sweepstake. ● They Are Wearing: ● The international luxury Lollapalooza 2016 e-tailer also is valued at $1 billion. ● Amid Declining Sales, Macy’s to Shutter BY MAGHAN MCDOWELL 100 Stores Now one million people look like they just picked up a little something chic from Casa- ● Swarvoski¹s Fall Campaign blanca’s Studio 14 or Kuala Lumpur’s Club 21 at Malaysia. Features Individuals of International luxury e-tailer Farfetch has Art, Design and Style just reached its millionth customer, and since its founding in 2008, big numbers have ● They Are Wearing: become a bit of a trend for the London-based Paris Couture Week company. Farfetch, whose mission is to sell online the unique wares found in boutiques from around the world, delivers to anywhere that DHL Global Stock Tracker does, and its growing customer base, which As of close August 12, 2016 spans 190 countries, means the company’s geographic — and financial — footprint have ADVANCERS expanded along with it. Nordstrom Inc. To date, Farfetch has raised $305 million in +8.03% funding and was last year valued at $1 billion. Li Ning Co. Ltd. Its total transaction value is at more than $500 +7.74% million; this is a number that grew more than 70 percent in 2015. Total transaction value for J.C Penney Company, Inc. 2016 is expected to exceed $800 million. Farfetch has +6.14% one million The company, founded by Portuguese customers Ted Baker plc entrepreneur José Neves, now has web sites in and web sites +4.21% more than nine languages and offers products in nine Avon Products Inc. from 400 boutiques in a total of 38 countries; languages. by way of reference, it started with 25 bou- +4.02% tiques in five countries. DECLINERS “From that day in 2007 at Paris Fashion Farfetch is known for a more diverse assort- was a handbag, shipped to a woman in Italy Week when I dreamed about creating a global ment than that traditionally found in larger from London. Since then, Farfetch has sold The Bon-Ton Stores Inc. platform for the luxury industry, to the launch department stores or major online market- enough shoes to circle the equator six times -4.80% in 2008 with 25 boutiques in the trenches of places because it reflects the typically more and enough clothes to cover the Empire State Chow Tai Fook one of the world’s greatest recessions, onward curated and risky offerings in independent Building six times. Jewellery Group to the vibrant company and community we’ve boutiques. Items cost between a few hundred In addition to popular women’s brands 3.05% built today, it’s been an exhilarating journey,” dollars to those that are thousands of dollars. such as Chloé, Valentino and Givenchy, other Neves said. “And serving our one-millionth Last September it introduced Farfetch Black women’s brands that do well include MSGM, Coach Inc. customer feels like a dream and ironically & White, which allowed brands to use its Sacai, Rosie Assoulin and Erika Cavallini. The -1.35% at the same time, the start of an even bigger e-commerce platform to use as an indepen- most popular men’s brands include Givenchy, Fossil Group Inc. adventure.” dent e-commerce site or to create a mono- Thom Brown, Rick Owens, Philipp Plein and -1.03% Farfetch’s 1,000 employees work in offices brand boutique that was directly on Farfetch. Brunello Cucinelli. Of the 100 brands on the Pandora A/S in 10 cities. The U.S. accounts for most of its com. In February, it expanded to include kids site, the most rare are housed under a dedi- -0.70% business, followed by the U.K., Australia and and beauty. cated page called Farfetch Finds, which boasts

Wang photograph by BFA/REX/Shutterstock by photograph Wang Brazil. The first Farfetch order on Oct. 4, 2008, the most unique pieces. 4 15 AUGUST 2016

FASHION Spot On ● Polka dots have been circling throughout resort’s collections.

BY MAYTE ALLENDE

Oscar de la Renta's silk dress and Kate Spade's wool cardigan. House of Holland boots.

Carolina Herrera's nylon and silk dress. Edie Parker bag; They New York sneakers. Photographs by Joshua Scott; Prop Styling by Norine Smith at Halley Resources; Hair and makeup by Amanda by Hair and makeup Resources; Norine Smith at Halley Styling by Prop Scott; Joshua by Photographs Emily Mercer Assistant: Shang; Fashion Andrew Editor: Models; Market York Wilson; Model: Sloane at New 15 AUGUST 2016 5

Calvin Klein's silk dresses and I'm Isola Marras' chiffon top and skirt. LeSportsac bag.

Gucci's silk dress, brooch and shoes.

Spot

On CONTINUED FROM PAGE 4 Photographs by Joshua Scott; Prop Styling by Norine Smith at Halley Resources; Hair and makeup by Amanda by Hair and makeup Resources; Norine Smith at Halley Styling by Prop Scott; Joshua by Photographs Emily Mercer Assistant: Shang; Fashion Andrew Editor: Models; Market York Wilson; Model: Sloane at New 6 15 AUGUST 2016

RETAIL J.C. Penney Outlines Financial Goals ● The retailer’s ceo, Marvin is further indication of the ongoing growth and other retailers, and the Amazon effect, pick up in store service results in lower Ellison, has unveiled new in the activewear category and follows the have ignited retailers into reassessing their delivery costs and reduced delivery time news that J.C. Penney's competitor Kohl's will brick-and-mortar fleets. It's never been more for customers. It also drives foot traffic and initiatives to help reach sales introduce Under Armour activewear in its apparent that the U.S. is way overstored. incremental sales. and earnings growth. stores this fall. "As a reminder last year, we closed roughly During the call, Ellison said the state of On the home front, the Dallas-based chain 40 stores and are closing roughly seven the consumer really hasn't changed from last BY DAVID MOIN is rapidly rolling out appliance departments stores this year," Ellison said. "We have a very quarter and that he's pleased, looking back to more than 500 stores this year, from disciplined process. We will not maintain on July, about the trajectory of the business. J.C. Penney, to advance turnaround efforts, the current 200. "We went live on jcp.com any store or any strategic entity that doesn't In other news, J.C. Penney's has distributed is banking on a bevy of merchandise initia- nationwide in advance of Memorial Day provide value to our customers or to our mobile devices to associates with POS func- tives — from appliance and window treatment weekend with over 1,200 appliances available strategic future." tionality to be ready within the next couple buildups and Michael Strahan private brand for purchase from our partners Samsung, LG Regarding the impact of other retailers of weeks; is replacing point-of-sale units with men's wear — to achieve earnings and sales and GE." closing stores, Ellison said, "Obviously we modern versions, and is close to finalizing a growth this year. Ellison visited last month a store testing spend a lot of time with mall operators sale-leaseback deal on a portion of its Plano, J.C. Penney's also continues to roll out all of J.C. Penney's home initiatives, which understanding their strategy to redesign the Tex., headquarters. Sephora shops in its stores, where soon included appliances and window treat- mall if there is an anchor that closes. When On Friday, J.C. Penney's said it narrowed its Clinique skin care and Laura Mercier cosmet- ments. "The combination of appliances, our a Sears closes, it's a net positive for JCP; our loss for the second quarter and cited improv- ics will be added to select locations. There are improved window treatment presentation, sales increase. With some recent Macy's ing sales trends across a wide spectrum of now Sephora shops inside 574 J.C. Penney's Signature Design by Ashley furniture, Empire closings, it's a net positive. Our data tells us categories. The Dallas-based retailer also locations and four more are slated for this Today flooring along with our dominant soft because the closings are well telegraphed, we reaffirmed its guidance for the year. J.C. Pen- fall. home presentation was very compelling. can take market share. We believe there will ney's projects earnings before interest, taxes, "Our new Sephora locations are generating Even more importantly, the early sales results be appliance market share up for grabs. depreciation and amortization, to reach $1 the best grand opening results that we've in this store and other test stores have been "There will be some situations [involving billion; comparable store sales up 3 to 4 per- ever seen," said Marvin Ellison, J.C. Penney's excellent," he said. Ashley Furniture is being store closings] where we are pretty sure that cent; gross margins increasing 10 to 30 basis chairman and chief executive officer. "This carried in select stores and Empire Today the mall will be severely impacted. In that points; SG&A dollars decreasing; cash flow is incredibly encouraging as we are placing flooring is being tested in the Tampa, Fla.; case we will make a decision to do something improving, and adjusted earnings per share Sephora shops in the small and more rural Washington, D.C., and Phoenix markets. different." expected to be positive. EBITDA next year is locations than ever before. We're garnering The more than one-third of customers Ellison explained how in an omnichan- projected at $1.2 billion. such positive results in these rural loca- who came to buy appliances were new to J.C. nel world, "any brick-and-mortar retailer For the second quarter ended July 30, J.C. tions that we now believe that we can open Penney's and 70 percent of the transactions who thinks they can go head to head with Penney's narrowed its loss to $56 million, more Sephora shops than we previously were done on a J.C. Penney's credit card. The pure play by doing it online, has a rude from $117 million, on a 2.2 percent compara- anticipated." appliance areas are like showrooms in that awakening." ble sales gain. There was an $85 million or 59 During a conference call Friday after J.C. J.C. Penney's owns the floor sets but not any "It's critical to understand that over 50 percent increase in EBITDA to $229 million. Penney's released second-quarter results of the other inventory until it's sold. percent of our online orders go through our Sephora, home, footwear and handbags were showing improved sales trends and a While expressing the importance of stores. That's correct — over 50 percent," the top performing merchandise divisions. narrowed bottom line loss, Ellison outlined private apparel labels such as Arizona and St. Ellison said. That involves orders online Next Wednesday, J.C. Penney's will hold several changes on the selling floor. Among John's Bay, Ellison did talk up categories like getting shipped to a store so a customer can an analyst day in Dallas. "It's really going to them, he said the midtier retailer continues appliances, Sephora and window treatments. pick it up there; shipping orders taken online be about outlining the strategic future of J. C. to actively refresh center core departments "We are pleased with our results and overall from the store inventory; having associates in Penney," Ellison said. "If I'm an analyst or an with Liz Claiborne handbags recently reintro- execution. We know we must pivot our stores order a product via online on behalf of investor, I want to understand the strategic duced, and that Nike girls will be introduced assortment toward less weather sensitive cat- a customer, and enabling customers to return relevance of a 114-year-old retailer in this for back-to-school at 350 locations. egories. We will continue to focus on apparel. items they don't want to the store. really dynamic marketplace." In addition, J.C. Penney's plans to relaunch We will always be an apparel retailer." "Omnichannel is not a catchphrase at Ellison said he will introduce the manage- Nike next spring with an expanded assort- Macy's decision to close 100 stores next J.C. Penney. It is a strategic process," Ellison ment team and "lay out in a high degree of ment in men's, kids and women's housed year, revealed Thursday, as well as recent stated. detail how we think we can win not only in in an updated environment. The relaunch downsizing by Sears Holdings, Gap Inc. He also said stores offering the buy online, 2016 but over the next two to three years."

MEDIA Joey Bada$$ is Montana. He has known Joey Bada$$, Kirk working with Adidas. Knight, CJ Fly and Nyck Caution for a few years, and shot them in music videos for Adidas to Unveil Pro Era. "They’re born in New York, they’re raised in New York — we want to explore how it impacted them throughout their life Originals Store in SoHo so we actually shot a lot of it in Brooklyn, in the original neighborhoods where they grew ● Rappers Joey Bada$$, Kirk Pro Era collective Kirk Knight, CJ Fly and Nyck up. So it was Bed-Stuy, Flatbush, Mill Basin,” Knight, CJ Fly and Nyck Caution in the new space. Ahmed Klink, who Klink said. filmed the four musicians returning to the To relay a more relaxed vibe and universal Caution will help celebrate the streets of their respective Brooklyn neighbor- feel in the 90-second video, Adidas had Klink opening of the Spring Street hoods for an Adidas video, will moderate the trail the four musicians roaming their old store. talk. neighborhoods set against a voiceover that Afterward, guests will join the four doesn’t indicate who is speaking. Instead of BY ROSEMARY FEITELBERG musicians at the Adidas Originals’ just-closed pro athletes talking about training, the spots Wooster Street space for a farewell concert. feature such statements as, “There's women The party won’t just be a one-time thing on the block, was crime on the block — blood, NEW YORK — To play into its New York state — Adidas is planning to use the new SoHo sweat and tears on the block — a lot happened of mind, Adidas Originals is counting on born address for special events and installations as on that block." and bred New York rappers to help unveil its a way to try to connect with "streetwear lov- This project was one of the first for Sunday new U.S. flagship at 115 Spring Street. ers" and "urban culture enthusiasts” beyond Afternoon, which Klink cofounded with And the company, which also has an branded product. Another sign of that is the Shane Griffin and Juan Carlos Pagan in March. Adidas store on lower Broadway, is about Adidas-financed Zine, which photographer Unlike in the sneaker wars of the Nineties, to make its footprint considerably larger Chad Moore shot and Jenna Sauers wrote an But creating an Adidas Originals account athletic companies are more inclined to share with this fall's opening of the Brooklyn Farm essay for. and selecting a preferred size doesn’t guaran- creative talent. "I’ve shot Stephen Curry, Rus- Design Studio. A company spokesman Zine will be available in the new Spring tee anything. Once a reservation is confirmed, sell Westbrook and Andrew Wiggins who are declined to say where that will be. Nor would Street store, along with limited-edition runs, customers will be invited to pick up their signed by Under Armour, Nike and Adidas, he confirm that will be a 20,000-square- capsule collections and designer collabora- reserved shoe at the new Adidas Originals respectively. These are the rules of the game foot facility above the Brooklyn Brewery in tions for women, men and children. For the flagship. The process highlights not only how to a certain point," Klink said. "I do the same Williamsburg, as reported by The Real Deal store’s launch, a New York specific color- hyper-competitive sneakerheads can be, but work for each of them and I pour just as much last year. way of the NMD style will be offered solely also how brands are melding the digital with of myself for any of them. It’s not that I don’t To make Tuesday's opening night party for through Adidas Confirmed APP. Adding to in-person shopping. have brand loyalty, but I wear Adidas and I the Spring Street store more memorable, the the enhanced focus on exclusivity, reserva- Having worked for the Adidas brand in wear Nike. If I have a meeting with Adidas, company will have a panel discussion with tions will be open starting Monday in all five the past, Klink also has done work for Nike, I show up wearing Adidas. And if I shoot for

Joey Bada$$ and his fellow members of the boroughs. Smirnoff, Bacardi, Under Armour and French Nike, I show up wearing Nike." Chad Moore by Photograph AG ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED AGJEANS.COM 8 15 AUGUST 2016

BEAUTY BEAUTY Cos Bar Prepares for Philippe Starck To Make Expansion ● The Aspen, Colo.-based luxury His Fragrance Debut beauty retailer has plans to open ● The designer is introducing 35 more stores in key markets. his premiere trio of scents BY RACHEL STRUGATZ under Starck Paris.

BY RACHEL STRUGATZ Cos Bar, one of the first specialty cosmetics retailers, is hitting 40 years in business with a growth spurt. The 14-store chain — with doors in cities such as Have you ever wondered what “elsewhere” smells Aspen and Vail, Colo., Carmel, Calif., Scottsdale, Ariz., like? and New York — has ambitious plans to open 35 more Philippe Starck has thought about it a lot — so stores in key markets over the next four to five years, much so that he’s bottled it and is introducing it as according to Cos Bar founder and chief merchandising part of his first fragrance collection under Starck officer Lily Garfield. Paris. The designer, who inked a deal with the Garfield maintained she was “comfortable as a Perfumes y Diseño Group in September of 2013, family-owned business,” but to take the company to created a collection of three eau de toilettes that the next level — and to further “differentiate Cos Bar will launch at Neiman Marcus next week. from the Sephora’s and the Ulta’s” — she would need a “I'm a dreamer. Since I'm born, I've [felt like I’m] strategic partner. not in the real life, [like] I'm flying nonstop without “We’re not prestige, we’re luxury. This is a market limit. It's not very comfortable,” Starck said of Philippe Starck's Peau de Soie, Peau de Pierre and Peau D’Ailleurs. I feel we can tap into, and I can’t do it alone,” Garfield the inspiration for Peau D’Ailleurs, or the scent of told WWD of Cos Bar’s retail expansion. “elsewhere.” This has been made possible by the involvement of Starck’s out-of-the-box thinking, which made series of portraits with faces so blurry that it’s hard Starck, as he elaborates on everything from his private equity firm Tengram Capital Partners, which him a world-famous designer, is evident from con- to discern the gender of the subject. inspiration in creating the fragrances to his philoso- took a majority stake in Cos Bar in December of last cept to packaging and even marketing materials — a See WWD on Wednesday for an interview with phy about life. year. David Olsen, who spent four years at Net-a-porter Group as senior vice president, was named chief execu- tive officer of Cos Bar in February. Already, there are plans in the next few months to BEAUTY open stores in Brentwood, Calif., and Lexington, Ky. A omnipresent in your mind but "very much gone 19-year-old at the time, Bazan was soon flying 1,300-square-foot door in New York’s Brookfield Place in reality." It also celebrates the pleasure of back and forth to California to meet producers. bowed in spring 2014, the last store Garfield opened being tortured — but liking it at the same time When she decided to move to L.A. perma- before Tengram came on board. — and the paradox of wanting what you can't nently two years ago, the main purpose was to Industry sources put Cos Bar's business at around Kristina have. The song includes lyrics such as: "Lost pursue music. $25 million, and Olsen said plans are to quadruple in you/Just tryin' to keep it together/Feels like “When I meet with producers I don't talk sales over the next several years. In addition to physical sweet poison in me/And it drives me insane." about my social media following. I don't want retail, growing the brand's e-commerce destination at "I feel like I'm juggling a second life — I’m in them to work with me based on numbers. I cosbar.com is a focus. Also in the pipeline is the intro- Bazan such a great creative flow [right now]," she said. wanted to do it the right way,” Bazan said, duction of same-day delivery and a loyalty rewards She noted that although L’Oréal is support- explaining that she had a “long development program, B. Cos. ive of her music, the company had had no stage” figuring out what she wanted to do as "We've barely scratched the surface with digital," Debuts involvement in the project beyond supplying an artist. Olsen said, adding that a new web site will launch cosmetics and having Karim Rahman, makeup For “Out,” she worked with Grammy next month. (He predicts 120 percent year-over-year artist for the L'Oréal Paris brand ambassadors, Award-winning producer Brian Kennedy on e-commerce growth.) Additionally, a second corporate apply Bazan’s makeup for the video. the single, who’s best known for his work with headquarters in Los Angeles (the first is in Aspen) will Video “I didn't want them to necessarily invest Rihanna and Chris Brown. The two are working be up and running later this month that will house money and put product placement in it. It’s my on a full-length album, which she expects to marketing, finance, human resources and technology ● Beauty's highest-paid blogger first video and I wanted it to feel organic and come out early next year. Justin Wu directed departments. will release visuals for her not like I was putting in all the brands I work the video. Garfield and Olsen have compiled a list of about 50 with. They just did the makeup,” Bazan said. Bazan added: "Everyone associates me with locations where they want to open the next Cos Bar single “Out." Three years ago before she relocated to Los fashion and being light and cute, and the whole locations, and hope to open 10 to 12 doors next year. BY RACHEL STRUGATZ Angeles, Bazan sent Jennifer Powell, her agent video is dark and tormented and tortured and Potential locations include another store in the New and head of Next Model Management's influ- sexy. I wouldn't say I'm deeply sad, but I am a Jersey area, Manhattan and Texas. encer division, a few songs she had written. A Scorpio. It's the most conflicted sign." Among the brands carried in Cos Bar are La Mer, Beauty's highest-paid blogger is getting into Tom Ford, La Prairie, Chanel, Sisley-Paris, Dior, Clé music. de Peau, Oribe, Bobbi Brown, Laura Mercier, Giorgio Today, Kristina Bazan, founder of her Armani, Tata Harper, YSL Beaute and Creed. Select Kayture blog, will release her first music video locations offer spa services from facials to eyelash for “Out,” the single she released on iTunes extensions. and Spotify in May. The video will premiere on “Forty years ago, all you had were department Vevo.com. stores or drug stores; you had certain brands in drug While best known as one of L’Oréal’s brand stores and luxe brands at department stores,” said ambassadors and a digital influencer — the Garfield, who opened the first store in Aspen, Colo., 22-year-old Bazan has 2.4 million Instagram in 1976 with a range from Lancôme. “[And] who had followers and inked a reported seven-figure the number-one location in department stores? It was deal with the beauty giant late last year — she always cosmetics. You had shoe stores, jewelry stores — insisted that her career as a blogger started as a why couldn't you have a cosmetics shop?" side project. This thinking is what precipitated the opening of her Her main passion is music, and Bazan’s been first shop, as did the harsh climate conditions in the an aspiring singer since she was a kid. Raised in Rockies and living 200 miles from Denver, where the Switzerland, she attended music school at the nearest department stores were located at the time. age of 11 and started a band — The Phew — at The original store, she noted, sees close to dou- age 14 with three male friends. ble-digit growth every single year. “It’s the perfect first single. It’s not a big pop anthem; it's a moody, vibey, sexy song. It lets Cos Bar's location in New York's Brookfield Place. people discover a new side of me. I’m not put- ting out a massive commercial hit,” Bazan told WWD of her song and corresponding video, which has alternating shots of her first writhing on a couch in an Elie Saab dress and then danc- ing and writing on a bed in La Perla lingerie. According to Bazan, "Out" is about the Stills from Kristina Bazan's "Out" music video. "absent one," or the former lover who's

Cos Bar's location in New York's Brookfield Place. 15 AUGUST 2016 9

MEN'S Nigel Barker Named Artistic Director at Flag and Anthem

● The founders of the men’s but can’t afford aspirational brands and wear brand, who formerly have no interest in traditional men’s wear brands. worked together at Macy’s, “This customer wants a bit of an edge. have brought on the He wants a fit that’s more tailored and photographer as an investor athletic and he wants price points that are digestible for the average person. He as well. doesn’t want commodity pricing, but he’s BY ARIA HUGHES not interested in pie-in-the-sky prices,” said Gartman. The Flag and Anthem collection, which Gartman said combines a prep and vintage Nigel Barker is putting his weight behind aesthetic, includes cotton shirts, graphic a new men’s wear brand founded by T-shirts, henleys, denim and varsity former Macy’s and Lord & Taylor buy- jackets. Shirts are priced from $49 to $59; ers Azod Mohit and Brad Gartman, who T-shirts retail around $29; denim is priced helped grow the men’s business for brands from $59 to $69; outerwear ranges from including American Rag and INC. $100 to $129 and knits are around $49. The photographer will invest in the Gartman said they are following a mul- brand and has been named artistic direc- tipronged distribution strategy. The brand tor. Barker, who also invests in the buzzy is currently being sold in Dillard’s, Buckle Meatpacking District gym The Dogpound, locations, on its e-commerce site and will was connected to Mohit and Gartman eventually be available through subscrip- through a friend who is a part of Barker’s tion service Stitch Fix. workout group at The Dogpound. As artistic director, Barker will be “I’ve never endorsed or gotten behind involved in the brand’s imagery and he will a specific brand in this kind of capacity also serve as a brand ambassador. ever in my history,” Barker told WWD. “He gives us a lot of credibility within “But when I walked into the showroom I the fashion arena,” said Gartman, who immediately had a reaction and thought added that another key investor is Robert these are exactly the kind of clothes that L. Burch, Chris Burch's brother who's the guys want to wear.” chief executive officer of investment firm Mohit and Gartman, who will preview Redbadge. “Nigel's going to be an advocate the spring line at Project in Las Vegas for the brand and work with our creative this week, believed there was a gap in Pieces from Flag team. His involvement will be integral in the market for men leaving college who and Anthem. terms of our longevity and how we get have graduated from teen specialty stores across to the customer.”

RETAIL seen very strong double-digit growth in our Insect Shield technology for about five to six No Fly Zone apparel. Our apparel has always years and we’ve definitely seen an increase helped protect outdoor enthusiasts from the in demand on the e-commerce side.” The Bug-Repellent Clothes elements, including biting insects.” company has sold out of some styles very L.L. Bean uses Burlington Labs for its per- quickly this year and Tsui said they had even methrin-based insect repellent technology. increased the number of bug-repellent styles The same compound that Insect Shield uses. this year over last. Selling Out Due to Zika Burlington calls its product the No Fly Zone. As of Aug. 10, the Centers for Disease Demand has jumped over at White Control has reported 1,962 cases of Zika virus Sierra, an outdoor apparel company that is disease in the U.S. That includes 510 pregnant ● The virus is driving nervous ExOfficio saw its sales spike when cases family-owned and based out of Sunnyvale, women with evidence of possible infection. consumers to go shopping. in South and Central America were first Calif. Larry Tsui, vice president of sourcing As of now, there is no vaccine and most peo- reported. Sales held strong through the spring and production, said, “We’ve worked with ple who are infected have mild symptoms. BY DEBRA BORCHARDT and summer, but when cases were reported within the states, sales jumped again. The U.S. Department of ExOfficio was the first U.S. company to Health and Human On Thursday, the U.S. Department of Health offer insect-repellent clothing to consumers Services is shifting and Human Services decided to shift $81 using EPA-registered Insect Shield technology. funding to develop a million in funds from other projects in order The apparel retains 92 percent efficacy for the vaccine for Zika. to develop a vaccine for Zika. life of the garment, which is generally pegged As Zika virus cases grow, nervous con- at 70 washes. sumers are running out to buy bug-repellent Insect Shield was founded in 2001 and the clothing causing apparel brands to run out of technology was originally developed for the stock. military. In 2002, it was used by the West “In May and through July, we sold out of Point Military Academy on cadet uniforms. a lot of product, which is indicative of the In 2004, the company’s technology was heightened demand around the product,” expanded to the consumer market. They said Brian Thompson, ExOfficio general man- partner with major outdoor apparel brands ager. ExOfficio said it has seen a 50 percent like Orvis, REI, Eagle Nest Outfitters and increase in sales as a result of the Zika virus. more. “The challenge for us is that it’s a pretty L.L. Bean also sells a variety of bug-repel- intensive process for us to bring the product lent clothing. “Our No Fly Zone apparel has to the market,” said Thompson. “There is a realized steady growth over the last few years six-month lead time and so it is hard to react as awareness of insect-borne illnesses has quickly.” The company is getting their reor- increased,” said L.L. Bean spokesman Mac

Zika photograph by Shutterstock/Image Point Fr Point Shutterstock/Image by photograph Zika ders in and meeting demand. McKeever. “This year in particular, we’ve LIBERTY FAIRS LAS VEGAS BOOTH# 601 #BeAnOriginal | originalpenguin.com 15 AUGUST 2016 11

huge seasonal merchandise extravagan- 59th Street will likely continue through it has to designer and high-fashion Bloomingdale’s zas that celebrated the fashion, food the fall of 2018. “It’s a massive project,” brands. It really is a complement to and culture of such countries as Italy, Spring said. “We are continuing to rein- the Macy’s organization and I do not Future: What’s in France and India, haven’t been part of force our positioning. We are still going believe Terry wants to part with it. the Bloomingdale’s formula for decades forward.” He would want to leave Macy’s and [though they weren’t always profitable] On 59th Street, Bloomingdale’s Bloomingdale’s as dynamic retailers Store With Macy’s and have been supplanted by promo- intends to create excitement of the and industry leaders.” tions geared to sell more products and “experiential” nature, and has been Others raise some questions. “With As Its Parent year-round exclusive programs. in discussions to create what some everything that needs to be done with CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 Tony Spring, chairman and ceo of sources are characterizing as a major Macy’s, is Bloomingdale’s a diversion?” Bloomingdale’s, disagrees with those food hall experience. There could be asked one industry source. “Why would who say Bloomingdale’s has lost its additions to the flagship so it becomes they keep it? It does make money, but what’s been for all retailers a string flair. “It is still a jewel within the port- more of a nighttime destination. Spring these are tough times. The business is of difficult, promotionally frenzied folio of Macy’s that has the potential to had no comment on this. in trouble. If they got a great offer for seasons. be scaled in a bigger way,” Spring said. Aside from the brick-and-mor- it, why wouldn’t they take it?” Macy’s has demonstrated it’s not Two additional full-line stores in the tar maneuvers, the growth agenda Severing Bloomingdale’s from afraid to make bold moves, from store U.S. are scheduled, for the Valley Fair includes outlets, digital, omni-channel the Macy’s mother ship is doable. closings to the expansion of Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s overseas. And there could be a shift in the strategy The last regarding Bloomingdale’s and other Bloomingdale's store matters, with Jeff Gennette becoming opening was in Hawaii's Ala Moana Macy’s Inc. chief executive officer next Center in November year, succeeding Lundgren, who will 2015. continue as executive chairman. Gen- nette, currently president, is a Macy’s veteran. Selling Bloomingdale's would qualify as another bold move that could arouse Wall Street, pump up the stock price, provide funds to accelerate upgrades across the Macy’s chain, and free up some management to focus squarely on Macy’s, which is striving to attract Mil- lennials, seeking licensed shops, imple- menting new technologies, developing celebrity lines and constantly battling back against naysayers who believe department stores are a dying breed. Asked if Macy’s would consider sell- ing Bloomingdale’s, Lundgren replied, “No. Bloomingdale’s is very valuable to us, and not just because they represent 10 percent of our business.” Lundgren added that management feels “very proud” of having Blooming- dale’s as part of the portfolio, and that the upscale department store benefits Macy’s by being a trendsetter, and that Bloomingdale’s has expansion potential. On many occasions, Lundgren explained, a trend or hot vendor emerges first at Bloomingdale’s, where shoppers tend to be more fashion-for- ward, and Macy’s can be quick to pick up on it before other retailers catch on. “That’s very beneficial to us,” Lund- gren said. “The denim business got strong at Bloomingdale’s before Macy’s, but after it happened at Bloomingda- Mall in California in 2018 and Norwalk, and a strong loyalty program. Spring Bloomingdale’s operates inde- le’s, we invested in denim” at Macy’s to Conn. in 2018 0r 2019. Overseas, two also emphasized exclusive product pendently, with separate buying, mar- seize the trend. additional licensed stores are sched- as critical, and cited Bloomingdale’s keting, store planning and store design Lundgren also said since Blooming- uled, Kuwait in 2017 and Abu Dhabi in partnership with New York Giants teams, though it does share back-office dale’s only operates 38 full-line stores, 2018. Also, Bloomingdale’s 17th outlet wide receiver Odell Beckham Jr. on an functions, technologies and logistics. more can open. Saks Fifth Avenue, will open this fall in Orange County, ath-leisure line for this fall, and mer- A Bloomingdale’s buyer, if it’s not a Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, all operate Calif. The division in November 2015 chandise that’s being sold tied to the retailer, could contract with Macy’s on more stores than Bloomingdale’s. opened its 38th full-line store in Hawaii Broadway musical “Hamilton.” fulfillment operations. “There will be opportunities for addi- at the Ala Moana Center. “It’s not really a question of But selling Bloomingdale’s could trig- tional locations. Obviously, Blooming- “We continue to look for where the Bloomingdale’s not having oppor- ger some big tax liabilities, and there dale’s is high-end,” which limits the right real estate and malls are,” said tunities for growth or standing still. would be a loss of significant volume. number of markets with high enough Spring. “With the current portfolio we We are moving full-steam ahead,” Bloomingdale’s accounts for just under household incomes that could support have, there is still room for Blooming- Spring insisted. “Our opportunity is 10 percent of Macy’s Inc. $27.1 billion the business. “It’s a finite number,” dale’s to open stores in this country.” to continue to make Bloomingdale’s as in volume last year, and around 10 per- Lundgren acknowledged. For greater flexibility in choosing exciting as we possibly can. cent of the corporate profits. Regarding the state of business at locations, Bloomingdale’s has devel- “Bloomingdale’s is different from the “Theoretically, it could be done, but Bloomingdale’s, “The general trends oped a store prototype that’s smaller past, but there are still opportunities to there is too much going on right now in around Bloomingdale’s are similar to — 165,000 to 180,000 square feet — but do new, unique and fun things that are terms of the competition Bloomingda- the company as a whole, but the impact still full-line. That footprint compares very much a part of what Bloomingda- le’s is facing in New York with Nord- of tourism is greater on Bloomingda- to the older full-line stores, ranging le’s is about....There is a certain energy strom and Neiman Marcus coming in,” le’s,” even though spending by interna- from 230,000 to 250,000 square feet that you feel when you walk inside said a retail expert. “New York is such a tional tourists, while still negative, was generally. Bloomingdale’s that is different from big part of their business. Also, I don’t not as negative last quarter as it’s been Then there is plenty of renovation the competition.” think Jeff just coming in as ceo next previously. work happening, Spring stressed. “I don’t think they are going to sell year would want to do something so Indeed, Bloomingdale’s business has “A top-to-bottom renovation of the Bloomingdale’s,” said retail analyst decisive. It would be a very monumen- been tough, and severely impacted Century City store will be complete in Walter Loeb. “Bloomingdale’s is hurting tal decision. It’s too big of a decision by the decline in international tourist December of this year. We are reno- badly because of foreign tourists not to put on Jeff. If they were going to sell shopping. Its heightened promotional vating our Willowbrook store in New being there as much, but the team Bloomingdale’s, they would want to sell posture has softened the fashion Jersey and we have begun another sig- continues to work on new fashion and out of a position of strength, not weak- supremacy it held for decades and nificant renovation of our 59th Street exclusive brands. I think Bloomingda- ness. Bloomingdale’s might become an Bloomingdale’s needs to be more flagship, which will touch almost every le’s adds luster to the Macy’s Merchan- even bigger competitor to Macy’s if it

Photograph by Douglas Peebles by Photograph differentiated. Black-tie parties and floor in the building.” Renovations on dising Group because of the access was not controlled by Macy’s.” 12 15 AUGUST 2016

prior year. Vegas Vendors Duel At Project in Las Vegas, Executives at apparel companies are Big Star is premiering pursuing myriad methods to stimulate its revamped line under With ‘Experiences’ sales. new creative director CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 Tommy Bahama follows a path of David Lim. innovation toward a younger customer and a broader geographic reach. Follow- ing the introduction last spring of men’s look under new creative director David shirts woven with 37.5 technology that Lim. The Odells rework its best-selling enhances the body’s natural cooling, it dresses, tunics and harem pants to integrated the active particles in shorts launch a kids’ line as well as a group of and knits for its spring collection. “It basics called Core Collection. Australia’s allows us to be competitive with the First Base heads to Las Vegas for the newer, younger brands,” said Peter first time to wholesale the monochro- Leff, Tommy Bahamas’ executive vice matic activewear that it has been selling president of wholesale. Since a camp directly to consumers over the past year. shirt featuring 37.5 technology retails “You’re stepping into this global for $10 more than a silk version, the market [in Las Vegas],” said First Base Oxford Industries-owned subsidiary can creative director Alison Cotton. continue its growth streak. In the fiscal Designers and manufacturers have year ended Jan. 30, 2016, it reported their work cut out for them, though. net sales of $658.5 million, up about According to a recent report from 5 percent from $627.5 million. For Mintel, a London-based market research women, who don’t seem particularly firm, consumers can’t shake a bud- enamored with 37.5, Tommy Bahama get-conscious mind-set. When they do is offering dresses, which make up 40 feel buoyed by an increase in discretion- percent of its assortment. After halving ary income and growing confidence in the selection of floral prints and mixing their finances, they tend to spend on in stripes, plaids and solid colors, it memorable experiences over tangible managed to expand into Chicago, Texas goods. As a result, they choose vaca- and New York from resort-heavy locales. tions, travel, leisure and entertainment Dresses have proven reliable for other over apparel and accessories. brands as well. So have bomber jack- To be sure, the total market for cloth- ets, jumpsuits and cropped pants. That ing, footwear and accessories eclipses explains their strong presence in the the others. In the U.S., consumers spent spring sets from BB Dakota, Jack and $431.9 billion on those items last year, Cupcakes & Cashmere. “The silhouette compared to $233 billion on vacations is not what’s new these days,” said Glo- and $365.5 billion on leisure and enter- ria Brandes, BB Dakota’s chief executive tainment, Mintel said. Fashion has seen officer, who oversees all three lines. “It’s decelerating growth over the last five keeping great colors and prints.” years, and spending on vacations and The spring palette is stepping into leisure increased 3.9 percent and 2.8 the sun. Michael Stars has a new fabric percent, respectively, last year from the to appeal to men: a lightweight French

GHSTS is using a washed-out palette for its spring collection to be shown at Capsule in Las Vegas.

terry with a faded look. GHSTS, which gotten worse,” said Sam Ku, AG’s presi- is relaunching as a men’s and women’s dent and creative director. “In terms of ready-to-wear line this fall, references buyers holding onto their dollars longer the desert cacti from Palm Springs in and placing orders later, it’s not a good shades of light pink, khaki and olive trend for anybody. It’s a not a good green. “It has a washed-out, organic feel thing for the retailer, for the brand or to it,” said GHSTS founder Joey Keefer. our vendors. It’s a lot of added pressure. Daring design is paying off for some I would love for that trend to move in brands. the opposite direction. I don’t know if Expecting to increase sales for its that’s any time soon.” eyewear by more than 65 percent this At any rate, designers acknowledge year, Oceanside, Calif.-based Raen is that they must work with retailers as offering five new frames specifically partners to improve the shopping expe- for women and mixing materials such rience, whether it’s through sponsoring as Italian-made acetate frames with in-store shops, holding trunk shows or titanium arms and mirrored lenses in teaching sales staff about each product. pricier styles. “It’s definitely more bold Next spring, Michael Stars aims to add than the collections we’ve had in the at least 15 in-store shops to the five it past,” said Justin Heit, Raen’s cofounder currently has. “Commercial real estate and creative director. is getting really expensive. It’s hard for AG picked up Intermix as a retailer brands to keep their own stores,” said last year when it had its design collabo- Suzanne Lerner, cofounder of the Haw- ration with Alexa Chung. While Chung’s thorne, Calif.-based company. tie-up ended after two collections, the “Personable experience” is how Jason Gap Inc.-owned specialty chain keeps O’Dell summed up what consumers seek buying the main line, which is promot- at retail, stressing the smaller environ- ing higher rises, straight legs and rigid ment and more personalized service. denim in its women’s collection for next O’Dell, who cofounded The Odells with spring. This year’s sales are tracking the his wife, Laura, has a unique perspec- same as last year, which “was the stron- tive. The couple also runs a multibrand gest year in the brand’s history,” said specialty store for men and women in Johnathan Crocker, AG’s vice president Los Angeles called Bucks & Does. “I do of global communications. AG’s annual see them wanting the boutique experi- revenue tops $200 million. ence,” he said. The approach seems to One trend that AG wishes would dis- be working for him: Bucks & Does, he appear is the placement of late orders said, is beating last year’s sales figures by retailers. “In the past few years, it’s on a monthly basis. Capabilities that inspire

For over 25 years, we have manufactured our collection of more than 4,000 European-quality fabrics in our Los Angeles-based facility. We offer faster deliveries, superior quality control, and vertically-integrated services for all major fashion categories. 14 15 AUGUST 2016

RETAIL put into downtown L.A.” The investment into the downtown store is a significant one in the context of the rest of the Southwest region and happens Macy’s L.A. Flagship as its corporate parent looks to shrink its footprint in a bid to restore the business. Macy’s Inc. said Thursday it planned to shutter some 100 stores, which would allow it to focus on digital and the growth Opens Visitors Center of its higher-performing stores. Among the stores being shuttered is the retailer's ● Everything customers see at men's-only store in San Francisco's Union the store reflects “Macy’s as a Square. For the flagship at The Bloc project, the corporation putting their best company is banking on a full revitaliza- foot forward for the future,” an tion of downtown Los Angeles, which has executive said. started showing signs of traction in more recent years with the influx of residents BY KARI HAMANAKA and restaurants. New development in the form of residential, retail and office could also bode well for the area. LOS ANGELES — The second floor of A Sessions West Coast Deli will be added Macy’s downtown Los Angeles flagship to the downtown Los Angeles Macy's was abuzz Thursday evening as attendees second floor and is expected to open in the celebrated the opening of a visitor center. spring. The Newport Beach, Calif., sand- It’s the only one at a Macy’s in Southern wich concept, Ellmann said, represents the California and one more signpost for the Southern California lifestyle as the store 250,000-square-foot remodeled flagship looks to reflect the local community. that anchors the retail portion of The “We continue to layer on better ven- Ratkovich Co.'s The Bloc mixed-use project dors,” Ellmann said, with women’s shoes in downtown. Most of the tools in Macy’s set to see Kate Spade and Aldo among tool chest were funneled into the store’s other brands. major redo, from an incoming restaurant Furniture was added late last year. Wom- set to open in the spring to shops-in-shop, Macy's at The Bloc in en’s apparel, which was a lackluster busi- such as a recently opened LensCrafters, downtown Los Angeles. ness prior to the store’s major remodel, is incoming Nike training center and, now, now back and expected to expand dress a visitor center that speaks to the tourists offerings with special occasion and bridal. the store attracts. doing,” said Macy's district vice president aesthetics. If you come to our downtown The store began seeing double-digit “This is one of the bigger remodels in Michael Ellmann. “It’s really a transfor- L.A. Macy’s store, you’re seeing Macy’s as growth when the barricades came down in the Southwest region so it’s a significant mation and we have the latest, greatest, a corporation putting their best foot for- mid-May, with the third and fourth quar- investment for our company and it com- innovative shopping solutions. It’s all ward for the future.…Every innovative idea ters expected to finish out “strong,” in line plements what Ratkovich, the developer, is state-of-the-art, both in technology and that Macy’s has as a corporation is being with projections, according to Ellmann.

MEDIA Generation Z Says 'No' to Clickbait, Craves 'Smart News’ Instead

● A survey found 52 percent of need for media to offer more substan- Teen girls crave smart teen girls said they “would like tial news stories that are also personal, news, which is lacking relevant and delivered directly to this at most media outlets. to be informed about current key audience.” events.” And yet the results also noted that Generation Z teen girls are not attracted BY ARTHUR ZACZKIEWICZ to traditional news outlets. Instead, their prime sources for news are Face- book, Instagram and Twitter. And 28 When it comes to the preferences of percent said they were more likely to Generation Z teen girls, media outlets receive e-mail newsletters than newspa- might want to ditch the clickbait. pers (print and online). According to a collaborative study by The survey involved 500 U.S. females mobile media company Clover Let- between the ages of 14 to 34. This ter and research and marketing firm included 111 Generation Z teenage girls Cassandra, 52 percent of Generation Z between the age of 14 to 19. It also teen girls said they “would like to be included 389 Millennial-aged women informed about current events.” between 20 and 34. The survey was The researchers said there’s a desire conducted earlier this summer. The poll for hard news that’s not being met by showed that 32 percent of respondents most outlets. “Media companies are “would rather be uninformed than have primarily delivering fluff and clickbait to media waste their time with clickbait.” young women and rarely producing the The results also showed that 37 percent smart, hard-hitting news they crave,” “hate clickbait.” the report noted. “The study uncovers “Not only are they frustrated by this that more than one in four female teens common practice, but 32 percent also feel that the media is not giving them think less of media outlets that use such news content that speaks to this relevant to people like them.” the content they deserve.” sensationalist tactics,” the report added. [demographic].” Clover Letter noted that it is address- The survey also revealed that one in Other findings include that 35 percent Regarding differences between ing this need for “smart news,” while five respondents “acknowledge they of teen girls “say media talks down to Generation Z teen girls and Millennials, the report said other outlets such as The don’t know where to get serious news.” people their age, which leaves a white the younger generation said they “feel Skimm and Lenny Letter are doing the The researchers said this “showcases the space in the market for high-quality there are not many news outlets that are same. Generation Z photograph by Shutterstock/prudkov by Z photograph Generation Front Row Fashion Kicked Into High Gear NYFW PREVIEW An Advertising Opportunity

ISSUE: 09.07 AD CLOSE: 08.24 MATERIALS: 08.29

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected] 16 15 AUGUST 2016

I happened to be on vacation last year in Italy. I had just come from doing something with Revolve, and they mentioned wanting to work with her, so it’s amazing to be here a year later and see how it all came LPA Draws Celebs together.” The line is currently available on Lpathelabel.com and Revolve.com and retails for The new L.A. clothing label's downtown party $58 to $1,500. Other guests included Los Angeles Laker Jordan Clarkson attracted Jordan Clarkson, Jasmine Sanders and more. and model Jasmine Sanders, who might have been one of the few who didn’t visit the bar. “It’s Day One of my juicing cleanse. Los Angeles’ cool kids con- Abloh — and the obligatory the Seventies — because the de- It’s going pretty well,” the model vened for a downtown fete on taco stand. signer had dressed guests Erin said with a smile before heading Thursday night to toast the “A lot of people say, ‘I want to Wasson, Emily Ratajkowski and into the packed crowd, which debut clothing label LPA by Pia move to L.A., but it’s so boring Alana Hadid in her creations. was collectively bopping to a Nick Foquet Arrobio. “This is so random, I there.’ So I thought, ‘If you think “I have watched my girl Pia set from Diplo. love this,” one guest said after L.A. is boring, let’s make it not create magic from the moment “What Pia’s doing is amazing,” trekking up the unassuming boring,’” said Arrobio, former she arrived in New York at 18 noted Alana Hadid. “I love the warehouse driveway in heels. creative director of Reformation. years old,” said Wasson. “What brand already. It fits me well and Her final destination was an The Revolve-sponsored party she has done is inject her per- I have a real body. I think if it fits open space teeming with had the vibe of California skate- sonality into all of these pieces a girl with a real body it’s a real street art, plenty of room for boarders, Arrobio’s hometown of and it makes you feel good.” brand.” dancing to music from Virgil Pasadena and her favorite era — Ratajkowski echoed, “Pia and — ERICKA FRANKLIN

Erin Wasson Alana Hadid in LPA. and Pia Arrobio

Emily Ratajkowski Dishes on Her New Netflix Show ‘Easy' The model and fledgling actress dis- cusses her "strong" female role models.

Emily Ratajkowski spent Thursday for Fire.” her prerogative to share her scantily night vamping for the cameras at Ratajkowski calls her character, clad selfies as a means of female the Pia Arrobio for LPA launch party one of many young people living in empowerment, not pandering to her in downtown Los Angeles, but nat- Chicago, “my alter ego,” though she many male fans. urally, she also took time to talk up may not be recognizable with her Ratajkowski, who heads to London her latest project, the Netflix show bleach-blond hair. Of her decision next month to film the movie “In “Easy,” premiering on Sept. 22. to hit the dye bottle, she said, “I think Darkness,” costarring and produced “Everyone should tune in. It’s an with my [modeling] job I could never by "Game of Thrones" starlet Natalie anthology series; it’s really cool, with do that, but I was going to art school Dormer, said her inspirations are “old- the director Joe Swanberg.” The at UCLA before I started doing this school” women such as Patti Smith, show also features Orlando Bloom, full-time and I think of myself as Bianca Jagger, Naomi Wolf and Gloria Malin Akerman, Dave Franco, Gugu someone who maybe would have Steinem. They are, she noted, “Women Mbatha-Raw, Evan Jonigkeit and been very anticonformist beautywise, who are tough and cool and have Elizabeth Reaser. Swanberg is known so it was fun to play that type.” The a lot to say including their style and Emily Ratajkowski for his offbeat indie films such as model-turned-actress considers her- personal aesthetic.” in LPA. “Drinking Buddies” and “Digging self a feminist, having stated that it's — MARCY MEDINA Ratajkowski photograph by Brian To; LPA by Brian To/Farrell/BFA/REX/Shutterstock by LPA Brian To; by photograph Ratajkowski DIGITAL FORUM LOS ANGELES CREATED BY WWD, BUILT FOR YOU NOVEMBER 15, 2016 • LOS ANGELES

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Talbots October ad.

Matt Damon on GQ August 2016 cover.

Journalism. Before that he was Talbots kept everyone in place inner calm. Before each of the up in Talbots shetland wool the senior editor at The Paris for the fall. three 12-hour days, they invited blazers and chunky cash- Review. The New England-based the shoot's 32-person crew to mere sweaters despite the Memo Pad In June the magazine hired retailer led another road trip to join them for some early morn- 100-degree temperatures. As Ross McCammon as senior the West Coast to shoot mod- ing yoga. But the models were has become customary for editor, John Ortved as senior els Niki Taylor, Ubah Hassan on their own when it was time its campaigns, the specialty associate editor and Paul Rob- and Mini Andén. Photographer for sun salutations, according store chain included a nod to was always a little jealous Switching Teams ertson as associate publisher Peggy Sirota did the honors to one Talbots staffer. All that it signature color in its ads — a when I read his award-winning GQ has tapped Christopher of marketing. Cox's position is with help from stylist Sean stretching must have had its in- red door on Union Street and a work in Harper's Magazine, Cox as executive editor. Cox effective Aug. 15. Spellman. All the parties that tended effect, considering the 1957 red Thunderbird parked in and now I'm just glad I don't will be responsible for editing — ARIA HUGHES be decamped on San Francis- models shopped at Sephora the vineyard. have to be jealous anymore." long-form stories, investigative co’s Nob Hill neighborhood. and other Union Street stores There is always a nod to Cox most recently worked pieces, profiles and essays. Playing off the them of “City in between shoots for scented Talbots signature red which freelance for Esquire. Prior to "Chris is that rare magazine Life,” the trio were photo- candles and other gifts for the can be spotted throughout that he was the editor in chief talent: a deeply experienced Talbots Falls graphed window shopping, entire Talbots crew. both September and October of Harper's Magazine, where editor who knows how to marry In Place strolling along and hamming For the “Weekend Away” photos — from a red door on he edited pieces that won the big ideas and high ambitions Rather than shake up the things up a bit. theme for the October ads, the Union Street to a 1957 red National Magazine Award, an with the best and freshest writ- creative lineup for advertising Despite the urban mood, Talbots team went to work at Thunderbird parked in the Overseas Press Club Award ers in journalism,” said GQ's campaigns as many brands do Andén, Hassan and Taylor did Viansa Vineyard in Sonoma, vineyard. and the PEN Award for Literary editor in chief Jim Nelson. "I from one season to the next, their best to try to keep an Calif., with the models layering — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

merchandising, including window displays “At the start, we had all these crazy ideas, and interior graphics, also form part of the but the brand helped us to narrow it down to overall concept. what was realistic,” Dhingra said. “We initially “Supporting young talent and fostering wanted to cover the exterior of the store in creativity is something very dear to me and denim flowers, but the council doesn’t allow Fashion Scoops to Diesel," Formichetti said. "It is by support- that. It’s an awesome feeling seeing our idea ing those new talents that we are helping come to fruition.” create the creative minds of tomorrow.” The grooming parlor and juice bar will The winning students, Eshaan Dhingra, operate on specific days throughout the Men's Debut range with Woolmark. “We are going around its operations to New York. Pignatelli will Griselda Ibarra, Irene Rodriguez, Laksamee month via the brand’s CRM loyalty program, Rob Jones and Catherine Teatum, who the world launching Teatum Jones with focus on "female models with talents that Jong and Maxime Laprade, were chosen with bouquets by Grace & Thorn coming design London's Teatum Jones label, will Woolmark straight after Paris,” Jones add- are both photogenic and also video-genic," from five competing groups. Their specialist gratis for customers who spend above a be debuting men’s wear during their first ed. “First it is Boutique 1 in Dubai then, David he said. The New York office will be located studies range from fashion curation to fash- certain level. women’s catwalk show at London Fashion Jones Sydney, Isetan Tokyo, Boon South on the third floor of Pier59 Studios, which is ion entrepreneurship and innovation, fash- The next step in Diesel’s ongoing Week next month. Korea and then Saks New York. One after owned by Pignatelli's Art and Fashion Group ion media production and strategic fashion commitment to nurturing emerging talent The designers, who have previously the other, each with an event to launch us. Holding Company. marketing. The Diesel project counts toward is a collaboration with the young Japanese showcased their ranges in a presentation It's like we are on tour. We can't wait.” Day-to-day operations will be headed by one of the units in their MA course. designer Yuko Koike to celebrate its 30th an- format, will be staging their show at 11 a.m. — LORELEI MARFIL vice president Brunella Casella, herself a “The brand wanted to link the store to the niversary in Tokyo. A launch event on Sept. on Sept. 16 at the BFC show space, Brewer former model and longtime director at in- area, so we looked into the history and came 6 will feature a live-streamed “see-now-buy- Street Car Park. L.A. to N.Y. ternational agencies including Women and up with the idea of flower girls who became now” fashion show, a film, an exhibition and “It's always been on our wish list to add Industry Model Management, the Beverly Elite, who helped launch the careers of Linda prostitutes at night,” Laprade said. Incorpo- a secret installation to be revealed on the men’s wear and also part of the bigger Hills-based modeling agency owned by Fed- Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Stephanie Sey- rating the colors of the fall 2016 collection, night. picture for Teatum Jones,” Jones told WWD. erico Pignatelli della Leonessa, is expanding mour, Naomi Campbell and many more. each of the store’s three floors corresponds The Covent Garden store takeover will “As we are showing our first official sched- — KRISTI GARCED to a different part of the girls’ day. run until Sept. 12. — STEPHANIE HIRSCHMILLER uled catwalk show, it felt now was right. We are starting with a really curated edit to get a Flower Children The store windows at feeling for the men’s wear, and the plan is to Diesel artistic director Nicola Formichetti Diesel's Covent grow it over the coming seasons. has selected five post-graduate students Garden store. "We also are designing some of the key at London College of Fashion to stage a pieces to be unisex as we feel this is how month’s creative takeover of the brand’s people are dressing, swapping and switch- Covent Garden boutique. ing it up. We've always had a masculine feel Their concept, which launched on to our women's wear, and a lot of our key Thursday night, embraces the history of outerwear shapes have come from men’s Covent Garden and its 19th-century flower wear, so it felt only right to sit them along- girls, poor young women — some of them side each other in the show.” prostitutes — who scraped a living selling Earlier this year, Teatum Jones scooped blooms. the women’s 2015-16 International Wool- The ground floor boasts a flower market, mark Prize. They edged out competitors courtesy of the hip East London florist including J Koo, Bianca Spender, Nanna van Grace & Thorn, while the lower level has Blaaderen, Taller Marmo and Tanya Taylor, been transformed into a gentlemen’s club, and were awarded 100,000 Australian dol- complete with a male grooming station, a lars, or about $71,020 at current exchange. nod to the area’s once notorious nightlife. They will also receive mentoring. Teatum Jones The upper level will host a series of pop-ups Next up, the duo will be promoting their rtw fall 2016 over the month, including a juice bar. Visual Talbots photograph by Peggy Sirota; Jones by SIPA/REX/Shutterstock by Jones Sirota; Peggy by photograph Talbots