ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY • NO 2 2017

2017 • No. 2

A CENTRE FULL FOCUS EXPANDING ON LULEÅ WITH CARE

HAIR STYLIST SEES LEJONHJÄRTA DREAM COME TRUE SISTERS ARE CYBER SENSATIONS

HIGH PACED MUSIC, LITERATURE PASSION AND AND THE RACING PULSES PERFORMING ARTS

THE VILLAGE GAMING INDUSTRY TURNING THE TIDE MAKING GAINS

❤ THE MAGAZINE WHICH LETS YOU DISCOVER LULEÅ IN THIS ISSUE

17–20 Award winning village with a strong community spirit

2 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY IN THIS ISSUE

4 TOP RANKING 5 8 13 AND HIGH PRAISE TV and blogs shine light on ice roads and Ormberget.

10 MASSIVE CONTRASTS Two perspectives of Luleå.

12 ENDLESS LOVE ON THIN ICE London couple get wed in Luleå Pavilion. LEJONHJÄRTA SISTERS LULEÅ, CITY OF LULEÅ CITY GROWS RULE THE NET BASKETBALL – BUT STAYS THE SAME 16 TWELVE NEW Elizabeth and Victoria’s course Luleå’s Mr. Basketball on the Recreation in focus as central NATURE RESERVES towards cyberstardom. city’s winning philosophy. Luleå expands. TAKE SHAPE Preserving the city’s natural habitat. 21 26 29 17 VILLAGE OF THE YEAR HAS COMMUNITY SPIRIT Klöverträsk is turning the tide.

28 COLUMN PETER OLOFSSON The Luleå gamer on the new Bossking festival.

34 FULL FOCUS LOCALS GIVE CULTURE ARCTIC GAME LAB AND PASSION FOR PACE, ON LULEÅ THE THUMBS UP THE GAMING INDUSTRY POWER AND PRESSURE The Luleå Way, with Natalia Hammarberg. Big photographic feature from Michael Stenmark explains Photographer Daniel Holmgren one of the summer festivals. how it all fits together. profiles brute strength. 36 LENSES DRAWN TO LIGHT IN LULEÅ The Luleå Way, with 38 42 48 Anita Nielsen.

44 CUISINE FROM ALL CORNERS OF THE WORLD Story looks at what’s on the menu in Luleå.

46 ALL DAY, TAKE AWAY AND POP-UP Varvet Deli & Dine have it all covered.

JANNICE TIGER HAS THE POET WHO LIKES GUAPO IS ALL ABOUT 50 EXCLUSIVE TRIPS PLENTY OF SPIRIT TO DO PUZZLES MEN’S BEAUTY HELP BREAK THE ICE Clear goals and hard work saw Peo Rask on inspiration, and Anna Svanljung and Anneli Laponia Rederi sets Luleå stylist achieve success. how to become an author. Kemoff do away with the myths. sights on winter tourism. original luleå story writers: mariana vnuk, peter olofsson. graphic design: peter kemi. photographers: petra älvstrand, tomas bergman, daniel holmgren, karl-william sandström, joakim höggren, jonas karlsson and susanne lindholm. production: luleå municipality in partnership with vinter communications agency. printing: v-tab. publisher: the communications office at luleå municipality, [email protected]

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 3 NEWS

Ice roads in limelight Live music centre stage Ormberget gets star rating

The TV channel CNN has listed 50 Did you know there were around Scenic and nature experiences it recommends to its 20 stages for live music in Luleå? safe, with viewers. The list includes the ice roads of BD Pop, the regional develop- superbly Luleå, sitting proudly alongside the Grand ment company for popular music, maintained Canyon and Great Barrier Reef. According runs the Länet Live project, which aims to jogging to CNN: This isn’t the only place in the create more opportunities for live perfor- tracks and world where the sea freezes over, but mance. The idea is for venues to book the the world’s the town’s location — jutting out into the acts, while BD Pop provides PA systems best looking sea — makes the frozen water a welcome and suggests information extension of the town’s streets in the artists. boards! depths of winter. “Playing live Ormberget open-air recreation complex is undoubt- featured in 30th place in a survey of Swe- edly the best den’s top 100 jogging tracks. Ormberget preparation for offers well-maintained skiing tracks, a aspiring art- biathlon course, slalom and sleigh slopes ists,” says BD in the winter as well as running tracks Pop’s Fredrik and cycle trails for mountainbiking in the Johansson. summer months.

Popular archipelago gem takes the next step LULEÅ TAKES THE SADDLE To become one of Sweden’s leading cycling cities. This is Luleå’s goal – and it’s getting closer. The city finished a creditable eighth in its class among 52 European cities in the European Cycle Challenge (ECC). Running from 1 to 31 May each year, the ECC is the largest cycling contest between cities and municipalities in Europe. In a nutshell, the city which cycles the furthest wins. The city also ranked highly in this year’s Kommun- Jopikgården, a fully-licensed guest house serving excellent food, velometer, a survey by Cykelfrämjandet, is located on Hindersön, one of the largest islands in the Luleå the national cycling organisation, which archipelago. Jopikgården has long been a popular destination for looks at the way cities work with cycling. Luleå earned 49 points for a share of sec- Luleå locals and visitors in summer and winter alike. ond place, its best result since the survey started in 2011. Brändö skärdgårdsturism took it over in At present, Brändö skärdgårdsturism the spring, and after a hectic first summer, offers visits and overnight stays on Chairman Daniel Sundström thinks they’re Hindersön. Providing excellent rooms, ready for the next step. the guest house serves everything from “We have a lot of ideas on how we can three-course dinners to light refresh- develop the estate as well as the business. ments. Visitors can also enjoy a range 928 Firstly, there are plans for another restau- of activities such as kayaking, cycling, Tourism in Luleå is soaring to new rant, so we can cater for everyone who fishing and tours around the island’s heights. Last year, turnover linked to comes here when the ice is strong enough many attractions. incoming tourism hit MSEK 928 – a rise of MSEK 19 compared and the sun comes out. In the longer term, Jopikgården can also be used for confer- to 2015. Overnight stays were also at we’re also thinking about building cottag- ences and events, with all the necessary an all time high. es down towards the water.” equipment on site. ❖

4 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY PORTRAIT

Home is where the heart is for the Lejonhjärtas Step aside Astrid Lindgren! Not only have twin sisters Elizabeth and Victoria taken cyberspace by storm, they’ve made the Lejonhjärta name their own. The pair chatted to Original Luleå Story about the forest, their future aspirations and why they don’t want to be put in a box.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 5 PORTRAIT

oets, Afro-Samis, social we’ve always been drawn to it. It’s a place media sensations and two of where there’s no attention, approval or the biggest it-girls in Swed- material things, where you can always be ish fashion. Oh and while reminded of who you are – and that you we’re at it, insta-Jedis and We love music and are can be happy without any of it. We always Pmuses for Swedish designer Ida Klamborn open to working in the have good ideas there.” and Canadian music sensation Drake. industry in some way. Trying to describe twin sisters Elizabeth What are you up to right now? and Victoria Lejonhjärta is an art in itself. “We’re home in Sweden for a week before Raised in Luleå by the unusual constel- heading to Berlin and Los Angeles to lation of a Swedish-Sami mother and a work. We’re doing some shoots, and we’ve West African father, the twins were first and freedom. But we also grew up in a also been working more behind the cam- drawn to music. That was until 2015, family which really stood out, which made era, which is loads of fun. We’re working when the sisters launched an Instagram us feel very different. There was never a abroad mainly, either for work, meetings, account, were written about in Vogue and sense of belonging. Although it was diffi- parties or events. A lot of our best friends nominated as two of Instagram’s biggest cult growing up, our experience meant we live overseas. Travelling this often is a beauty stars. would never be afraid of diverting from real privilege, and one of the best things They now have over 100,000 followers a collective identity. We’ve always done about our work.” and modelling jobs all over the world – things our own way.” but there’s always room to develop. What is important to you? “We try not to limit ourselves and don’t As young girls you did a spot of “To keep dreaming and developing! Strik- want to conform to type, focusing more singing, and there were high hopes ing the right balance. Despite all the ben- on who we are right now. Which is two for the future. Was it music which efits and positives associated with social girls exploring what we can do with our attracted your initially? media and fashion, we’re in an industry lives; like staying awake all night, playing “We were also involved in drama, but which is often obsessed with appearance with ideas and watching a little too much music was the main focus. We still have a and a particular look. It’s important for Sci-fi!” passion for music and are open to work- us to de-contextualise everything we do ing in the industry in some way. It’s still and, as best we can, try not to create What happened when you set up one of our foundations.” any pressure or attention around our your Instagram account? appearance.” “We suddenly had a global platform from Art seems to mean a lot to you. where we could control our image, and Tell us why. What do you do when you come this let us easily connect with people we’d “Art has always been really important to home to Luleå? never have reached otherwise. It created us. We’ve always experimented with dif- “Wherever we go, there’s nothing like the a buzz around us which meant we could ferent art forms, but the need to express feeling of returning home. We often find start working with what we enjoyed. We ourselves has always been and remains at ourselves thinking about going home. see the account as a Jedi in training, with the heart of everything we do. A popular We spend time with our families, visit loads of opportunity for development and Instagram account brings with it the our grandparents on Porsön and hang the chance to reinvent yourself.” expectation of living up to the Insta-girl out with our best friend all the time. And ideal, which means being ultra cool, you’re sure to see us at Ica Kvantum at How were you shaped by growing extrovert and sharing every fun thing you least three times a day!” up in Luleå? get up to. The thing is, we’re not really “Your surroundings are a canvas on which interested in fitting into this box. We just And your dream project? all your experiences play out. Growing want to create stuff we like and do things “To write and direct our own film, release up in Norrbotten has shaped a large part we find genuinely enjoyable.” a collection of poetry and produce our of our identity, giving us a sense of calm own comic book, to name a few!” ❖ What inspires you? You’ve mentioned the forest as a source of inspiration. “We always draw inspiration from meeting new people, experiences and im- pressions. We get a lot of ideas from films and the world around us, but the forest is our spiritual home. Throughout our lives,

6 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY PORTRAIT

Name: Elizabeth and Victoria Lejonhjärta. Age: 26. Live: In Stockholm/Luleå/out of a suitcase. Grew up: In Luleå and Rovavaara. Luleå in three words: Light, dark, home. Favourite place in Luleå: Storsand on a summer evening. Big dream: To land a role in Star Wars. Instagram: @lejonhjerta, where they have over 100,000 followers (selection of images on this page).

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 7 SPORT

Basketball hub which goes its own way With 12 Swedish titles and eight silver medals, record attendances and loads of active clubs, it’s no exaggera- tion to say basketball is a big part of life in Luleå. Basketball guru JP Kostet tells us more.

Luleå, city of basketball. secondary school. Each one would be Many people think this is the financially independent, with its own label which suits the city best board. Every club was brought under – and it certainly rings true. the Luleå Basketcentrum umbrella. As The record Both Luleå Basket (women) and BC much as anything, this was down to the attendance of Luleå (men) are rated as two of the long distances involved. Instead of trav- 7,300 most successful basketball clubs in Swe- elling to Övertorneå and Umeå to play, still stands. den. Not only that, Luleå is host to one Gammelstad could take on Bergnäset. of Sweden’s two upper secondary bas- ketball programmes open to students The peak was reached in 2003, when nationwide, there are many children 187 training groups were active across and young people playing the sport and 20 clubs. elite teams with loyal followings who “There’s no other city which has run constantly set new attendance records. with this idea, but I think our philosophy is a big reason why Luleå has become JP Kostet leans back in an armchair such a big basketball hub,” JP argues. outside the swimming pool at Luleå “We also have a strong tradition, and Energi Arena. This is where the men’s enjoy access to a lot of facilities with and women’s teams are based, and fairly low rents. There are also a lot of a place he’s spent too much time to big profiles and enthusiasts in the city, mention. Kostet’s basketball journey like Micke Johansson, Lars Moses- began on 4 October 1976 when he took son, Jampa Eriksson and Ingemar Ek. the role of coach in his little sister’s Driving forces with lots of ideas. We’ve team, Sunderby SK. Despite never managed to give and take without there having played himself, he soon began to being too much conflict. We’ve also coach a number of teams. The turning involved youth coaches, giving them point – and the dawn of the philosophy free reign to test their ideas.” which would make Luleå into the city of basketball it is now – came at the end What’s your best basketball memory? of the 1970s. As a coach for four teams “There are so many, but I recall when and with a national service call-up on the men’s team played their first the horizon, JP realised he had to dele- match in the ice rink (Coop Norrbotten gate and involve more people. Arena). We could never have dreamt “I managed to get the older players how successful we’d become. It was a to train the younger ones, and began sell-out. Some people were even turned thinking in terms of wider participation. away because there was no more room. This idea snowballed into what would The team played all its home games become Luleå Basketcentrum.” there for three years, and the stand was rebuilt to accommodate more specta- The philosophy was simple. The idea tors. The record attendance of 7,300 was to create a club linked to every still stands.” ❖

8 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY SPORT

Figurehead, driving force, coach, lecturer, speaker and vice Chair of the Leisure and Recreation Committee. JP Kostet knows his basketball.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 9 CONTRASTS

▶ 22/02/2017 10.07 a.m.

In February this year, Luleå was selected to host one of the five events in the KPN Grand Prix – a tour skating series run by the Royal Dutch Skating Association – for the very first time. Taking place on the ice down from the city’s southern harbour, the event is due to return in February 2018.

10 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY CONTRASTS

▶ 26/07/2017 11.29 a.m.

During the summer, a fleet of boats set sail for some of the 1,312 islands in Luleå archipelago from the very same spot. Lying within Bothnian Bay’s network of islands and skerries, Luleå archipelago is accessi- ble both summer and winter through boat tours and across ploughed ice roads for cars, cyclists and walkers.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 11 LULEÅ LOVE

DON’T LEAVE ME

Come to me I’m in the sea, I’m in the river. Navigate the surf and reefs Build a bridge Plough the ice Stand between two winters Come to me See the sun sweep Over harbours and houses Through streets and shops B etween the clouds In the storm

From Ön, the latest poetry collection by Luleå poet and musician Mattias Alkberg (Teg Publishing, 2016).

THE SILVER PAVILION London couple Chris Morris and Sarah Lessem got married in Luleå in the winter of 2017. The ceremony was held at the Silver Pavilion on Gültzauudden, a gazebo created by Luleå-based ice artist Tim Linhart precisely for this kind of event. “We fell in love with Luleå the first time we came here and thought it would be the perfect setting for our wedding,” the couple say. Recalling the spirit of One Thousand and One Nights, the couple said it was the perfect venue for their fantastic cere- mony, with guests invited from Sweden, England and the USA. For more information about the Silver Pavilion, visit lulea.se

12 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY GROWTH

Focus on recreation as Luleå city centre spreads its wings

As Luleå expands, there’s an even greater demand for housing, and 2,300 new homes are set to be built up to 2019. But what is the municipality doing to ensure Luleå isn’t perceived as just another mid-sized Swedish city?

Malmudden. ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 13 GROWTH

The Fågeln district (above) and Östra Länken. Östra Länken.

uleå’s goal to gain 10,000 areas play a key role in the appeal of a city. work at Kanalparken, Bohnsackparken new inhabitants is getting For new builds, Luleå Municipality pursues and the link to Västra Skurholmen, which closer. As part of the strategy, a vision whereby residents have access to was carried out at the same time. the municipality continues a park or similar area no more than 200 “The new parks are a real benefit and planning to build new hous- metres from their front door. a vital part of the project. We do what ing. Among other things, 300 homes are “We’re constantly trying to strike a we can to create value and improve an currently under construction in Kuststad, balance when building. However, besides area when we get the chance to develop in the southern harbour, while 30–40 laying the platform for new housing and it,” explains Johan Eriksson, head of the apartments are soon to be added in the workplaces, one of our most important Landscape and Traffic section. central Laxen district as well as Kallkällan. tasks is to ensure new recreational areas are created and existing ones retained Among other facilities, an open-air gym 2,300 residences will be completed by and developed,” explains Daniel Rova, the and pétanque court have been added 2019, and zoning plans are in place for municipality’s acting head of planning. to the area known locally as Golfängen, Kallkällan (100 homes), Klintbacken (94), while the massively popular promenade Malmudden (150), Kronandalen (2,000) Östra Länken, one of the municipality’s along Skurholmsfjärden has been recon- and Varvet (the Fågeln district, 140–150). largest ever infrastructure projects which figured for purpose though addition of a is designed to enable the city’s expan- new playground on Västra Skurholmen. One of the biggest challenges posed by sion, is a prime example. The project was new, dense developments is to retain launched in 2014, and September 2017 The municipality has similar plans for green spaces, parks and walkways. These saw the completion of redevelopment Stadsparken ahead of the 400th anniver-

14 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY GROWTH

Bilaga 1: Illustration av ett möjligt scenario för östra delen av Luleå centrum inklusive resecentrum

Östra Stranden and the Travel Centre.

sary in 2021. And when the new residen- There are many areas to be evaluated, great spot, which gets the evening sun. tial area in Varvet (Fågeln district) gets and, according to Johan and Daniel, While focusing on building for the future, under way, the coastal walkway will be there’s a lot of work to be done. we have to ask ourselves where we’re upgraded and connected to the centre. “Take the Trekanten car park behind heading and want kind of city we want. “The city centre’s location on a peninsula Strand Galleria, for example. Is this really We don’t just want to become another is both an opportunity and a challenge. the best location for a car park? It’s a mid-sized city in Sweden.” ❖ The coastal walkway which encircles the entire central peninsula is crucial in creating a more attractive centre to visit SCHEDULED CONSTRUCTION PROJECTS IN THE CENTRE OF LULEÅ and take pride in. This is something we’re actively seeking to develop through ongo- MALMUDDEN After the municipality launched a contest back in 2015, a winning proposal has now been selected featuring five residential buildings and 150 apart- ing projects in the centre,” says Johan. ments – a collaboration between property firm Udden i Luleå AB and Ahlqvist & The city “The Östra Stranden project, which Almqvist Arkitekter. Improvements to Malmudden beach are also part of the project. involves development of the current centre’s Construction is set to begin next summer. centre, is a real eye-opener. Not only are location on a THE FÅGELN DISTRICT Zoning is under way in the area neighbouring Varvet, up to 1,500 new homes and workplaces peninsula south of the Telia building. 140–150 residences are planned, along with a coastal walkway. set to be built, expansion is also planned is both an to accommodate a new coastal walkway opportunity ÖSTRA STRANDEN AND THE TRAVEL CENTRE A brand new area is being planned behind the railway station. As well as construction of a new travel centre, which will connect and integrate the area and a the Östra Stranden district will expand through addition of 1,200–1,500 residences with the rest of the centre.” challenge. and new workplaces. This area is set to be a new, green oasis in the city centre.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 15 NEWS

Keeping Luleå green Due to the Luleå building boom it’s getting harder to protect the city’s green, recreational spaces. As a result, the municipality is planning 12 new nature reserves. Municipal ecologist Örjan Spansk explains.

here are 37 nature reserves in Luleå, Why is this happening now? LULEÅ’S 12 NEW most of them in the archipelago. Histor- “It’s about the expansion of the city. With a NATURE RESERVES Porsöberget ically, these were created to preserve great deal of development in progress, we have Mjölkuddsberget specific species and animals in the to safeguard green spaces. We usually use the Snasahögarna/Lulviken Tarea, however, creating reserves to maintain rec- term green infrastructure. We must ensure there Kalvholmen Storsand reational areas – green spaces where people meet are areas and walkways where people can go Hällbackenskogen up, relax and enjoy nature – are just as common. without encountering roads or traffic, and there Grundet has to be room for plants and animals to spread. Mattisberget Both the country administrative board and This is always taken into account during urban Karlsvik Altappen municipality can form nature reserves, with mu- planning.” Småskär nicipalities traditionally handling those in built up Degerö-Börstskär areas. There are currently three reserves set up What are the factors that determine which by the municipality – Degeröholmen, Brändöskär areas become nature reserves? and Ormberget/Hertsölandet – and many more “We’ve looked around the municipality and asked are planned. ourselves which green spaces need to be pre- served. All of the areas are popular recreational The municipality “That’s right. Twelve new nature reserves are sites evenly spread across the city. These are the has already set up planned, in a certain order of priority. Right now areas we must ensure are preserved.” nature reserves in we’re working on Porsöberget, Mjölkuddsberget Degeröholmen, Brändöskär and and Snasahögarna/Lulviken, which all have con- Five of the 12 new nature reserves will be com- Ormberget/Hertsö- siderable recreational value,” says Örjan Spansk. pleted by 2020. ❖ landet.

16 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY FEATURE Klöverträsk has warmth, harmony and a positive spirit

There are around 100 villages in Luleå, which are home to one-quarter of its population. Voted Village of the year in 2017, Klöverträsk is bucking current trends with a rising population, many of whom are fami- lies with kids.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 17 FEATURE

hick fog forms over the Miriam Boman opens the front door and course was built in the forest over there.” meadows as we approach calls to her son and his friend. On the “We” means the village. Everyone clubs Klöverträsk, 2017 Village of other side of the village, a pair of cycle together here. Not just when it comes to the year in Luleå Municipality. helmets bob into view. Before long, the necessities, but everything which makes TThere were 355 people living here at the two eight-year-olds return home on their Klöverträsk extra special. Like the cycle 2016 year-end, an increase of three on bikes. track, ski slope or school forest, con- the previous year. This may not sound “This is a great place for kids. You can structed so the village school could hold much, but the situation is very different in just let them out, and we’re really close to classes outdoors. And not forgetting the a lot of other villages, with many people woods and fields. And to all our friends. inter-generational housing set up in 2005 relocating and a high average age. We have our own ski slope and surface and 2016, where older residents looking “Viggo! Come here, and bring Carl with you!” lift, and in the summer a mountainbiking for more basic accommodation and sell-

18 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY FEATURE

We’re right at home here and have a lot of friends who were attracted to the area.

MIRIAM BOMAN Age: 36. Family: Husband and two children, 8 and 12. Lives: In Klöverträsk. Works as: Special needs teacher in Älvsbyn. The best thing about Klöverträsk according to Miriam: It’s beau- tiful, it feels like home and the strong community spirit.

ing their houses to younger people have Involved in a number of clubs in the priority. There’s also the village’s very village, Miriam has lived here since 2004, own, massively popular Sensommarfesti- although her and Klöverträsk go way back. valen (late summer festival) which takes “My husband grew up in the house we live place in mid-August each year. in and my parents moved here when I was This is a great place for kids. “There’s a real sense of community spirit 16, so I lived here for two years before You can just let them out. here. Everyone knows everyone, waves moving away to study,” Miriam recalls. and says hi, and there’s a genuine com- “At first I thought it would just be tempo- mitment to get things done, even among rary, but I soon realised how great it is to the younger villagers. We don’t take live here. Especially when you have kids. anything for granted,” says Miriam. We definitely don’t want to move now.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 19 FEATURE

We’re right at home here and have a lot the site of the Westergaard family’s barn, of friends who were attracted to the area. and hub of the Sensommarfestivalen. Over the last few years, many people “It’s great that they make their barn avail- have actually moved here from other able for the event. All the concerts are places. I think they see the benefit of a held in there. This year we even booked small nursery and school, for example.” Boris René, from Melodifestivalen. It was packed out,” laughs Miriam. Dusk draws in and the streets begin to “I think there were around 800 guests empty. Carl’s mother comes from the on the Saturday, and the festival gets the neighbouring village to collect her son, whole village involved. I dressed up as a and Miriam decides it’s time to call it an clown at the kid’s party in the local com- evening. munity centre. We made a fair number of We pass the building which was once chocolate balls and set places for 90 kids, home to the village grocery store. This is but it was worth it!” ❖

KLÖVERTRÄSK Situated: 40 km north of Luleå. Population: 355 at the 2016 year-end. Average age: 44.6. Companies in the village: Klöverbergsgården, the egg producer. Also based here: A school (preschool grade F–6), nursery, Pentecostal church, inter-generational housing, ski slope and lift, mountainbiking course and village festival. Fun fact: Won Luleå Municipality’s Village of the Year award in 2017: “For its warm community spirit and the steadfast commitment of its residents to shape their own lives.”

20 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY PHOTOGRAPHIC FEATURE

Luleå features at the top of the list of Swedish municipalities whose residents are satisfied with the range of culture they offer. 2007 saw construction of Kulturens hus, which hosts music events, the performing arts, art and literature. Luleå is also home to a number of drama and dance associations, an award winning school of culture, 20 or so live music stages and three large festivals. Luleå-based photographer Karl-William Sandström has documented one of them.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 21 PHOTOGRAPHIC FEATURE

The eight edition of Musikens Makt was held on the green grass of Gültzauudden on 18–19 August this year. Artists taking part included Joy, Ebbot Lundgren & The Indigo Children,

Skott and Tjuvjakt, with the latter drawing a record high audience. A new segment was run by Feministisk mötesplats (Feminist meeting-place), with Nina Rung, Peter Svensson and others arranging discussions, a feminist theme lunch and an all-male dinner.

22 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY PHOTOGRAPHIC FEATURE

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 23 PHOTOGRAPHIC FEATURE

When it comes to culture, Luleå’s locals are among the most satisfied in Sweden.

Åke Broström, head of culture at Luleå Municipality

24 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY PHOTOGRAPHIC FEATURE

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 25 GROWTH

“Luleå needs the gaming industry”

Gaming is one of the fastest growing industries in Sweden, and Luleå has just launched its plan to gamify the city. Michael Stenmark, the brains behind Arctic Game Lab, explains why the sector is vital in creating a vibrant community.

t’s long been the case that there’s no way of knowing how big things Swedish society. People may not realise the gaming sector, through its will become.” it, but in a society where everything will enormous global success, is the soon be generated by code, women are world’s biggest media industry. Why is Arctic Game Lab so important? on the outside. There are very few women Larger than the film and music “That’s an easy one. The gaming industry who study to become programmers. I Iindustries combined, it’s a great field to plays a vital role in creating a diverse, think about this every day. We have to be involved in if you’re a creative type. dynamic, vibrant community. We all ben- turn the tide. As a fairly small organisa- However, when Luleå-born Michael Sten- efit from a community in which creative tion though, we can’t do it alone. This mark moved back home after a few years people can work and get paid for what requires political action and changes to working in the industry in Stockholm, he they produce. This is exactly what gaming primary education and the education was met by a void. Fuelled by the desire companies offer. The industry repre- system as a whole. We employ someone to gamify not only Luleå, but Norrbotten sents the cream of the crop, with cutting whose sole responsibility is equality and and Västerbotten as a whole, Arctic Game edge expertise in technology, corporate inclusion, and arrange special gatherings, Lab was formed. structure and distribution. This know-how meeting places and game jams just “I moved back so I’d have more time to rubs off on the rest of society, fuelling for girls.” create, and work in a way which just isn’t development in the industry as well as in possible in Stockholm. A big part of my other fields.” Why are you so interested in gaming heart and soul are in Luleå, but the prob- and the industry in general? lem was there were no gaming companies You’ve talked before about how the “It’s not really about the games as such. based here. Where could I work? I realised local gaming industry cluster is vital I’m really passionate about the area I we needed to create conditions for an for the region. Explain what you mean. grew up in. This is where I want to work industry to take shape.” “If we don’t maintain our own gaming in- and create something. I want to live and dustry, the effect on the region will be se- work here; nearby nature, but still close Arctic Game Lab was founded in Skel- vere. If we don’t have our own companies, to cities and modern society. I’m a story lefteå in 2014. In late 2016, Luleå joined the creatives who want to work in the teller who works with games. For me the organisation, which now exists in five field will head off to Stockholm, Tokyo or it’s about creating an opportunity – not cities: Luleå, Boden, Piteå, Skellefteå and LA. It’s already happening. All those who just for me, but for everyone – to stay Umeå. trained in Luleå, Piteå and Skellefteå and here and live a fantastic life in one of the The impact of the initiative is starting aspired to work with game-related media world’s most beautiful landscapes and a to be felt in Skellefteå, and Micheal is have been forced to move. This means setting which stimulates creativity. The expecting the same outcome in Luleå. Northern Sweden will not be part of the gaming industry is a key part of this.” “I’d imagine it’ll be a few years until we creative digital industry’s cutting edge begin to see the fruits of our labour here. – the so-called Swedish gaming wave. What are your ambitions? Creating a game often takes two to three Our talent is disappearing, which is why “My hope is that we will have a really years, and not every company gets it we run Arctic Game Lab; to reverse the strong gaming industry here in 10–20 right first time. Angry Birds, created by trend. We can already see many people years – an industry where artists and Rovio, was the Finnish developer’s 42nd staying to work in local game companies.” programmers create great games which attempt to find a winning formula,” adds reach people all over the world. We hope Michael. What’s being done to attract more to retain our young talent and create “Luleå is right at the start of the process. women to this male-dominated indus- an environment where gaming veterans There are two really good out-and-out try? want to return home. I dream of a future gaming companies here: Turborilla and “This is the biggest issue we face from where creative people not only stay in Committed gaming. But since our Game a broader perspective. If we don’t foster the region, but move here because it’s Jams are full of enthusiasts, from young girls and women who can program and an area which offers something a game creators to seasoned veterans, create, this is a failure on the part of big city can’t.” ❖

26 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY GROWTH

We all benefit from a community in which creative people can work and get paid for what they produce.

ARCTIC GAME LAB The Arctic Game Lab organisation has been supporting and nurturing the gaming industry in Norrbotten and Västerbotten since 2014. Among other things, it supports training, experience exchange and those who want to, or already have created a gaming project or company. The organisation also provides meeting places and events, like its own Arctic Game Jam. Currently based in Luleå, Boden, Piteå, Skellefteå and Umeå, Arctic Game Lab also works closely with Luleå University of Technology. Since its launch, 14 gaming startups have been founded.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 27 COLUMN

Peter Olofsson GAMER

The Bossking gaming festival and the art of loving something openly in order to be the best.

There are gamers wherever you So the answer was straightforward: The response has been fantastic. Ice look. Over the last few weeks I’ve Love gaming openly. If we’re to lead hockey players, CEOs, gangs of guys been speaking to players from Luleå the way in gaming and game devel- and girls, grandchildren and asylum Hockey who spend long nights in opment, we have to learn to openly seekers united by a single passion. front of their computers as well as love what we do. The solution was At last! deputy directors who employ e-sport Bossking, a public gaming festival managers, groups of guys and girls incorporating the Norrbotten E-sport So take the time to discover our pas- who prefer PUBG sessions to pub Championships where we can meet sion and learn to understand your crawls, grandchildren who’d rather up and inspire one another, and neighbour, child or friend. During build dens in Minecraft than out in hatch new ideas to grow our passion. the year it’s taken to plan the event, the woods and lone asylum seekers Gaming and game development the main objective has been to who’ve been transformed into often go hand in hand. make e-sport open to everyone. So frag-seeking team builders. whether you’re a boss queen, a boss Our vision is simple. We want to queer or a boss king, you’re welcome So why have e-sport and computer create a sustainable, commercial to come to Luleå, the game development failed to gain gaming festival. We want to move e-sport capital a foothold in wider society? And gaming out of the home and of Northern why do the newspapers still ignore into the big arena. We want to Sweden. ❖ an industry which is currently the replace pan pizza with fresh largest in the entertainment sector, Caesar salad. We’re focusing turning over more than SEK 700 on top quality, togetherness billion. And how can we lead the way and a sense of community in Norrbotten in an industry which for all. In three years’ time we gets no exposure? aim to be one of the leading LAN events in Sweden. My e-sport loving friends and I asked a simple question: How do musicians start a band? The majority of musi- cians start a band because they see another band playing live and get inspired. The music industry is one of Sweden’s biggest exporters thanks to its public performance venues, music festivals, courses and journalists who pay tribute to its unique culture.

28 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY ACTIVE LULEÅ

Blood, sweat and tears Elite sport, scores of clubs and gyms and a selection of unusual training pursuits. When it comes to sport and fitness, Luleå ranks top of the league – for women in particular. Photographer Daniel Holmgren met Elin, Anna, Maria and Johanna, who all share a burning passion for what they do.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 29 ACTIVE LULEÅ

Name: Maria Pettersson. Age: 46. Lives: In Luleå. Works as: Professor of Natural Resources and Environmental Law at Luleå University of Technology. Activity: Full contact karate (Ashihara) for some time. Club: Luleå Karateklubb. Training schedule: Three sessions a week right now plus conditioning. In the period before securing my black belt, I was doing five to six sessions a week. Besides this I’ve always run, preferably on rough terrain. Best thing about the sport: Has to be the variation. A session can include technique, fighting and condition- ing – and you can always choose to work yourself into the ground. Achievements: Have to say my black belt grading. Ashihara karate is really demanding, ending with 30 rounds of combat.

30 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY ACTIVE LULEÅ

Name: Elin Rova. Age: 25. Lives: In Luleå. Keeps busy: Studying to become a midwife. Activity: Crossfit for the last three years. Club: Crossfit Holistic. Training schedule: Depends on my study and work placement schedule, but when I’m off I try to train twice a day. Normally just the once though. Best thing about the sport: The variety. There’s always something new you can improve on. Achievements: Part of the Swedish team in the 2017 Functional Fitness World Championships in the USA. Took 65th place in Europe in the 2017 Crossfit Open. Came second in two major Swedish events: MK Open 2017 and Roslagen Open 2016.

Name: Johanna Myrland. Age: 30. Lives: In Luleå. Works as: Consultant at ÅF in water and environ- mental management. Activity: Mountainbiking. Club: Luleå Terräng- cyklister. Training schedule: Three to four sessions a week. Best thing about your sport: Mountainbiking offers a challenge, good exercise and togetherness in great landscape. You can’t beat the bike! Achievements: Founded Luleå Terrängcyklister club, where we work together to spread the joy of mountainbiking and make life more of an adventure. Last summer I cycled up and down the mountains in Lofoten which was surrounded by fjords and fells – unbeatable! ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 31 ACTIVE LULEÅ

Name: Anna Lintzén. Age: 37. Lives: In Luleå. Works as: Photogra- pher. Activity: Trail running for the last five years. Club: Team Nordic Trail. Training schedule: Six sessions a week, in- cluding cross country skiing and weights. Best thing about the sport: The freedom, nature, tracks and mountains. I prefer longer courses (over marathon distance) across mountainous terrain. Achievements: Performed in Eco Trail Stockholm, Höga Kusten Trail and Fjällmaraton, among other events. The Ultra Trail Lago d´Orta, in Italy, was probably the most fun.

32 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY THE LULEÅ WAY

Relocating to Luleå for love, the city ignited Natalia and Anita’s passion to take pictures. Their images of Luleå are now appearing all over the world.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 33 THE LULEÅ WAY

Full focus on Luleå After meeting Luleå for the first time, Natalia Hammarberg could never have imagined this would be the start of a long love affair. The city has now become her favourite muse – and the reason she started taking pictures.

atalia Hammarberg left Kiev, can see for themselves. When posting Ukraine, for Luleå for love just pictures on social media I get loads of Nover five years ago. She recalls responses from countries like Ukraine, her first encounter with a far smaller city Canada, New Zealand, USA and many with a smile. more. It’s a real inspiration.” “My first impression of Luleå was nothing like what it is today. I remember my So what’s the best thing about Luleå? husband saying that we should head into “The nature. It may not be the most the centre. As we stood on Storgatan, I original answer, but there are contrasts took a look around and asked ‘When are here we almost take for granted. Like the we leaving?’”. northern lights and the midnight sun, which I’m sure appear on a lot of people’s But things soon changed. She quickly fell bucket lists,” she says. for the climate, people and nature, with “And the people. I felt really welcome the area’s stunning landscape igniting her when I moved here. People were very passion for photography. open and helpful, which you can’t take for “Something happened when I moved here. granted these days.” Photography became a passion. Armed with a basic camera, I took pictures of What’s your dream subject? everything I saw. It became a way to “The Luleå archipelago. I haven’t seen express myself and a new way of seeing it all myself, but that’s the plan. I want the world,” Natalia explains. to observe and photograph as much as “I still do nature shots mainly. Land- possible. There aren’t many people from scapes. I really like to find those small overseas who know about the archipela- details. The camera helps you see things go here, and maybe we take it a little too in a different way. I used to miss so much much for granted. Next summer I hope that was beautiful while out walking.” to take the boat out a bit more to travel around and take pictures.” ❖ For now, Natalia’s aim is to share the images she captures and convey her impressions of Luleå. “Getting these pictures out there feels important. There are so many stereotypes of what life is like in the north of Sweden. Something happened when I moved I want people to come here so they here. Photography became a passion.

34 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY THE LULEÅ WAY

I felt really welcome when I moved here. People were very open and helpful, which you can’t take for granted these days.

Name: Natalia Hammarberg. Age: 33. Lives: In Luleå. Grew up: In Kiev, Ukraine. Works as: Quality and com- munity development officer at Luleå Municipality. In my spare time: Take pictures, do pilates, cook and spend time with friends and family. Luleå in three words: Beautiful, open and alluring. Favourite place: Luleå’s archi- pelago. Favourite hangout: Mjölkudden. Big dream: To see this wonder- ful world with the people I love.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 35 THE LULEÅ WAY

“Everyone should experience the light here“

No day is complete without a picture. he swapped the beeches and farmland of the south for Anita Nielsen’s motto sheds light on a the reindeer moss, pines and old fir trees of the north. Anita Nielsen left Skåne for Luleå in 2010 with only a ba- passion which spans decades, and was sic camera in tow, but after being inspired by Norrbotten’s given a new lease of life when she Sstunning scenery, she upgraded to a better model and started moved to Luleå seven years ago. snapping more regularly. “After the move I started taking landscape shots, largely thanks to the light and natural beauty. Artists often refer to the light in Öster- len, but there’s something unique about the light here,” Anita says.

36 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY THE LULEÅ WAY

Name: Anita Nielsen. either on my own or Age: 50. with my fantastic equally Lives: On Bergnäset, in photo-obsessed friends. Luleå. Watching the light on the ice track in winter. Grew up: In Gärsnäs, Österlen, in Skåne. Luleå’s best hidden local gem: The lovely Works as: Dialysis nurse. sandy beach on Långön. Luleå in three words: The Alma shipwreck on Beautiful, welcoming and Bastaskär. inspiring. Favourite hangout: The Favourite place: Luleå’s forest and archipelago. fantastic archipelago, Big dream: To photo- Småskär and Brändöskär graph the northern lights in particular. from Aurora Sky Station. In my spare time: A photography trip to Artists often refer to the light Taking long walks with Iceland. my partner. Boat trips in Österlen, but there’s something Fun fact: A proud ambas- in the archipelago. sador of Luleå since 2015. unique about the light here. Fun photography trips

facebook.com/AnitaNielsenfoto

Nature has always been the subject closest to her heart, with Using her Facebook page and other groups, Anita has managed special emphasis on details like insects and flowers. to reach a wide audience. As recently as September she exhibited “I enjoy heading into the country or strolling around town to see her work for the very first time, at Havremagasinet, in Boden. Her what I can find. It’s important to pause and take a look around. Luleå-themed subjects have also appeared at a Milan photography When I’m out taking pictures, something interesting always turns exhibition (Red cottage in winter) and won recognition at an interna- up. I’ve also learned to trust my intuition, which is right more often tional photography contest last year (Reflection of Bergnäs bridge). than not.” “I’ve tested other art forms, like painting watercolours, but nothing “I try to avoid image processing as much as possible. I want my lets me explore my sense of colour, form and composition like subjects to appear just as they did when I photographed them. photography.” ❖

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 37 ROLE MODEL

“I think it’s important to take the plunge”

After more than 10 years in the industry, Luleå hairdresser Jannice Tiger has realised her dream of opening Barberdoll, her very own salon. You could say it was always in the stars.

38 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY ROLE MODEL

tyling hair was pretty much all taking things step by step. It’s easy to for- business for 10 years, but with Barberdoll Jannice Tiger ever wanted to get how things started,” Jannice reflects. I take care of everything. I want to be do. In all honesty, her path was “In some ways, this dream has always challenged, to develop and take a few mapped out from the start. As been a given; a passion. Having a clear chances. What’s the worst that could Sa small girl, Janice would always use her goal in mind has made it easier to work happen? I think it’s important to take the scissors to style her own hair, knowing full towards it.” plunge.” well a trip to the hairdresser was the like- ly result. The sweet scent of perm liquid Jannice Tiger opened her salon, Barber- Jannice Tiger graduated from hairdress- left a strong impression on her, and she’s doll, as a limited company in October in ing school in Luleå in 2004. She imme- been fascinated by hair ever since. the new Bryggeriet building, surrounded diately joined the Sax & Maskin creative “The other day, my son asked: ‘How by a number of other companies all salon, where she worked until 2007. It does it feel to have achieved your dream owned by her close friends. was there she got to know Lisa Liljedal, mum?’ For me though, it’s more a case of “The people and premises are a big rea- with whom she ran the Killerqueen salon son why I’m taking this step now. Being from 2007 to 2012. able to hang out with this bunch all day “I’m really happy I took that decision back is brilliant. I’ve practically been running a then. We were pretty confident and there was nothing holding us back. We just went for it. Barberdoll is like an upgrade of Killerqueen. I really want to create an open atmosphere and ambience.”

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 39 ROLE MODEL

As a business owner, Jannice senses an here care about their hair and have exciting climate of enterprise in the city. learned to always book a new appoint- “I think you can see a snowball effect at ment. As I see it, we’re not battling for the moment. There are a lot of people customers. Each salon attracts the daring to believe in their ideas. This clientèle it wants.” hasn’t always been the case, and there’s room to develop. I think having some- What’s the best thing about your job? one to bounce ideas off is vital. For me “Meeting other people, and helping them this person was Simon Laiti, who runs find themselves and their own style. Hemmagastronomi, who has been like a When people leave the salon, I want them mentor.” to think ‘Yeah, this is me!’”

Luleå has a lot of hair salons. What does the future hold? What about the competition? “The dream is to expand. I’d love for “There are two hairdressing courses Barberdoll to create a ripple effect and based here, and a lot of salons. People maybe open in more cities. It would be great to work with pop-up artists, like the tattooists. Right now I have the barber There are a Anton Örnfjäll travelling up from Umeå lot of people from time to time. Working with people daring to who inspire you is a real privilege.” ❖ believe in their ideas.

40 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY ROLE MODEL

Name: Jannice Tiger. Age: 32. Lives: On Bergnäset, in Luleå. Grew up: In Vidsel. Works as: Hairdresser at Barberdoll, her newly opened salon. CULTURE

The city archive and microfilm room at the public library have played an important part in Peo Rask’s writing, and the author has whiled away many hours there.

Peo fuses politics and poetry

As a poet, publisher and “The difficult thing isn’t writing; it’s being Since the late 1980s, Peo Rask has critical columnist, Luleå- an author.” pursued various forms of literature, pub- lishing around 20 titles across different based Peo Rask has been Peo Rask takes a sip of tea and pauses for genres, from poetry to children’s books. producing his own work thought. According to Peo, his versatility comes and publishing others’ for “The fun part is being creative; the jour- from his restlessness, while his writing almost 25 years. Peo tells ney towards publishing your work.” developed from his interest in politics. Original Luleå Story where For many people in Luleå, Peo Rask is “I was highly politically active when I was he gets his ideas from and a poet, the driving force behind Black younger and got a job at Folkviljan, the Island Books publishing house, a critical left wing publication, here in Luleå. I only how to fulfil your writing columnist and a sharp presence in the intended to stay three years, but I’m still ambitions. cultural debate. He describes himself as here today. After a while I realised I want- committed and restless, with a versatile ed more freedom to write, without being approach to writing. held back by dogma.”

PEO RASK’S TOP FIVE TIPS FOR ASPIRING AUTHORS Don’t rush In general, people are in too much Consult a professional Instead of check- Embrace criticism Many of us of a hurry. You can publish a book pretty easily ing with your brother or sister, speak to become way too attached to our own these days, but taking short cuts is risky. Your an author or literature critic. I’ve used an- work. The books we publish have often friend designs the cover, and someone else other poet based in Malmö and have also had large sections removed. Try to proof reads your work. It rarely works out. asked Mattias Alkberg to read my work. question the quality of your writing.

42 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY CULTURE

Name: Peo Rask. Age: 59. Lives: In Luleå. ROAD HOLDING Grew up: In Karlstad. Works as: Don’t know! In my spare time: Cycling and taking walks. Luleå in three words: Rugged, creative people. A man ComingWhat’s in store this winter.up Favourite place: Wherever I’m living. who loves his car Favourite hangout: I’m not the hangout type. 11/11–10/2: above all things NORRBOTTENSTEATERN The best book I’ve read: Arabia Felix: The Dan- Cabaret. One of the world’s most ish Expedition of 1761–1767, by Thorkild Hansen. Who needs something performed musicals, directed by Fun fact: Back in the 1980s, a friend and I to manoeuvre, Josette Bushell Mingo. smuggled a Kurdish refugee into Sweden. In 2017 I published work by a female Kurdish poet in control 17/11–6/12: GALLERI SYSTER Swedish and Kurdish. It’s probably the best thing and compensate Niki von Bahr. Exhibition by Niki I’ve done in my life, apart from being a father. for being so lost von Bahr, the award winning Swed- B eep beep! ish animator and short film creator. I love looking through The journey’s almost over 30/11–30/12: NORRBOTTENSTEATERN archives and reading The engine of equality Mama Moo and the Crow. Chil- old newspapers, it’s like fires up dren’s theatre featuring the much loved Mama Moo and her unlikely doing a jigsaw puzzle. sidekick, the Crow. From the poetry compilation Motor (2016). 1–24/12: STADSPARKEN Julkalendern. Like last year and countless years before, Lule Thanks to a long-distance love, young Peo “Right now I’m writing about my con- Stassteater puts on a moving began to compose the poetry for which nection with Robin Smith, the oldest Yuletide performance for the whole family in the winter-clad park. he would later become renowned. It was relationship I have with another person. around this time he met Jonas Autio and I’m trying to convey my feelings about 2/12: KULTURENS HUS Niklas Instedt, two other young men with someone I’ve followed for a long time Melissa Horn. Exclusive tour which sees Melissa Horn perform solo an interest in poetry and literature, and it but never met – and perhaps never on stage. Luleå is the only venue wasn’t long before Norrbotten’s answer to want to. At certain times he’s been even planned north of Stockholm. Malmöligan (the Malmö group) released closer than my own father, and I still play 3 + 17/12: the Sex unga röster (Six Young Voices) records from the 1980s.” KULTURCENTRUM EBENESER anthology under their own Black Island Salsa Café. Luleå Salsa Club Books label, named after Svartöstan, Where do you get your ideas from? serves up Salsa, Bachata and Merengue on two occasions. where they all lived. “I’ve noticed that I write thematically when composting poetry. Like Motor, the 5/12: KULTURENS HUS “Svartöstan is a common theme in much poetry compilation. I completely buried Christmas night. Molly Sandén, Thomas Di Leva and David Lind- of my work. When I moved here I wanted myself in the motor trade. I didn’t really gren perform Christmas classics in to find out about the area, and delve know anything about engines. I think it a modern setting. into its history. So I spoke to people and started when I had a problem with the car. 12/12: searched the archives. I love looking Rather than using equipment, the me- KULTURCENTRUM EBENESER through archives and reading old newspa- chanic I spoke to just listened and put his Kontext. Two-time August Prize winner Jessica Schiefauer (Po- pers – it’s like doing a jigsaw puzzle.” hand on the hood. It was around this time jkarna and När hundarna kommer) I was travelling to Västerbotten regularly, talks to Kerstin Wixe. Peo’s most recent work – Ett annat Berlin and came up with a lot of ideas behind 15/12: KULTURENS HUS (Another side of Berlin) – was published in the wheel.” ❖ Oskar Linnros. Following the 2017. It’s a kind of alternative travel guide, release of his new album, Väntar covering architecture and economics på en, the acclaimed Oscar Linnros returns to Luleå. rather than shopping sites. And for his Run by Peo Rask since 1992, Black Island Books published more titles than usual during 2017. These next project he’s seeking closure – with seven works included Peo’s own Ett annat Berlin 27–30/12: KULTURENS HUS The Cure’s Robin Smith. and Girafferna (The Giraffes) by Staffan Westerberg. Ronja Rövardotter Astrid Lind- gren’s classic tale is a Christmas treat for the kids.

17/2: COOP NORRBOTTEN ARENA Äventyret Aladdin. Dröse & Read what others write If you want to Never proof read on screen When the Norberg whisk you away to the mythical world of the Orient, ac- write poetry, get hold of material and time comes to proof, print out your work. companied by Markoolio and Claes read it. Try to read a range of poets and Go to another room or a different setting. Malmberg among others. authors, and get inspired. You can never Computers hold too much power over us. For details of more events, visit read enough. visitlulea.se

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 43 FOOD AND DRINK

THERE ARE 97 DIFFERENT NATIONALITIES LIVING IN LULEÅ. The city serves food from all corners of the world, including India, Japan and Eritrea, alongside the very best ingredients from Norrbotten. Story presents a selection.

There are a number of restaurants serving sushi, dumplings or bibimbap in the Japanese and Korean Fancy a pizza? Nor- style. (1, 2, 3) wegian or Neapolitan? Enjoy the latter with a glass of something sparkling. (4, 5)

Norra Strandgatan Norra Hamn 22 12

21 9

10 23 Skeppsbrogatan 24 11 15

Rågstugatan Stads- Residensgatan 2 parken Did you know Luleå boasts around 10 5 restaurants and cafés 4 in the renowned Köpmangatan White Guide? 19 13 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12)

Stationsgatan

14

Sandviksgatan

Södra Hamn Bergnäs bridge

44 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY FOOD AND DRINK

Pastabacken

Classical Chinese cuisine, spicy Thai tastes or rich Indian Harnet curries. Luleå has a range of Asian alternatives. (16, 17, 18, 19)

Kafelino

On the hunt for fine dining, Norrland Chowkeeng style? Not a problem! Police station (20, 21, 22, 23, 24) Magasingatan

Kungsgatan Taverna Gusto, Pastabacken Kulturens- Skeppsbrogatan Hus

Shopping 3 7 20 Galleria Odod, Sushi bar, Goodwill 8 Strand 1 Galleria Storgatan 17 6 Train 16 station Smedjan Waldorf, Chowkeeng Galleria

Smedjegatan Tapas de Papá

Luleå Cathedral 18

Burger and beer – a winning Hemmagastronomi, Bistro Norrland, Cook’s Krog, concept in Luleå too. Restaurang CG Sandviksgatan (13, 14, 15)

Odod, Goodwill Södra Hamnleden

Södra Hamnplan

Baan Thai, Bangkok Thai

1 Odod 2 SushiBar 3 Goodwill 4 Taverna Gusto 5 Pizzabakeren 6 Roasters 7 Kitchen & Table 8 Jazzmatsalen (Savoy) 9 Hemmagastronomi 10 Cook’s krog 11 Restaurang CG 12 Bistro Norrland O’Learys, Allstar, 13 Bastard Burgers 14 O’Learys 15 Allstar 16 Waldorf 17 Baan Thai 18 Bangkok Thai 19 Chowkeeng Bastard Burgers 20 Kitchen & Table 21 Hemmagastronomi 22 Bistro Norrland 23 Cook’s Krog 24 Restaurang CG ▶ For more restaurant tips, visitulea.nu

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 45 RESTAURANT GUIDE

Food for all tastes and occasions

All day, take away and pop-up combined. The newly opened Varvet Deli & Dine plans to serve Luleå locals a complete experience. Fredrik Sidevärn, one of the owners, tells us how.

What are you adding to the restaurant Bay. Bookings can be made pretty much What are you planning in the evenings? scene here? every evening and at weekends during “Companies and private individuals are “Besides delicious lunches with vegetar- the day.” welcome to book Varvet, and we’ll also be ian alternatives and inspiration from all organising our own events, hopefully with over the world, there are two things we’re Explain your all-day concept. something Luleå doesn’t have to offer at bringing to the Luleå scene. Firstly, we “In a nutshell, it means we serve some- present. We’ll be filling the calendar with have our own take-away range in the deli thing throughout the day. Breakfast runs theme evenings and after work events in- bar, featuring fresh, tasty lunch boxes and into lunch, and the lunch dishes of the spired by different types of cuisine. We’ve salads.” day can be ordered in the afternoon also begun teaming up with local DJs “A more considered alternative to indus- alongside our regular menu. We wanted and nightclub organisers to offer a wider trially produced microwave meals or the to offer an alternative for people who range of entertainment through regular serve-yourself buffets in food stores. The want to eat at unusual times of day, or party events.” ❖ second thing is our easy-to-access venue those holding a breakfast meeting out of boasting the best views over Bothnian the office.”

46 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY RESTAURANT GUIDE

Restaurant guide allstar cook’s krog kitchen & table sushisbar Sports bar serving junkfood Traditional meat restaurant Clarion Hotel Sense showcases Locally sourced, healthy and deluxe, that is, classical Amer- inspired by the whole of Lap- Swedish celebrity chef Marcus organic fare. Combines sushi ican dishes such as burgers, pland. Strives for the highest Samuelsson’s Kitchen & Table with salads that are out of this steaks and fajitas. standards of food, drink and restaurant concept. Focuses world. allstarbar.se/lulea service. on fun dining rather than fine sushibar.nu cookskrog.se dining! kitchenandtable.se/lulea baan thai bangkok thai Thai restaurant in the heart of goodwill The latest addition to the the city with a lunch buffet and Family restaurant serving a odod Luleå restaurant scene. Serves excellent evening menu. mix of grilled fare, traditional Traditional sushi and unique Thai dishes for both lunch and baanthailulea.se dishes and Asian classics, like Asian dishes in a simple dinner. dumplings. setting.

restauranggoodwill.se sushiodod.se bastard burgers tapas de papá Burgers simple and plain – the Traditional Spanish tapas res- real deal. Locally sourced, harnet o’learys taurant. Pick your own pinchos self-ground meet, fresh bread Eritrean restaurant serving In- Sports bar including ten-pin and tapas and pay at the end and sides such as sweet potato jera, the flatbread which is the bowling, pool tables and of the evening. fries and homemade dressings. staple of the nation’s cuisine. amusement arcade. The menu tapasdepapa.se bastardburgers.se Based in Malmudden, a couple features O´Learys classics like of kilometres from town. buffalo wings, ribs, quesadillas taverna gusto restaurangharnet.se and hamburgers. bistro, bar, bridge Pizza bar, classic pasta olearys.se/lulea-event-center Popular summer restaurant dishes, bruschetta and an floating on the water – literally. hemmagastronomi Italian three-course menu. Menu featuring small, medium Locally produced, well-cooked pastabacken Italian wines and cocktails too. and large grilled treats as well food focusing on seasonal Cosy pasta restaurant inspired Naturally. as sweet dishes. ingredients – all day long. by Italy and Argentina. tavernagusto.se bistrobarbrygga.se Includes deli and bakery. pastabacken.se hemmagastronomi.se the bishops arms bistro norrland pizzabakeren Gastropub chain specialising in Locally produced Norrland cui- jazzmatsalen Pizza pure and simple. Swedish beers and single malt whisky. sine in a relaxed bistro setting. Nestled in the Hotell Savoy, ingredients on slightly thicker Also serves traditional pub Top class food and drink. Jazzmatsalen serves break- bases from this rapidly grow- dishes like prime rib burgers bistronorrland.se fast, lunch, à la carte dishes ing Norwegian chain. and fish n’ chips. and cocktails. pizzabakeren.se bishopsarms.com/lulea hotellsavoy.se chowkeeng Asian cuisine with fantastic restaurang luleå varvet deli & dine Indian dishes. A small, cosy kafelino Restaurant situated in Kul- Breakfast, lunch and dinner. venue. Restaurant with a Greek touch, turens hus. Serves up lunch, Traditional fare, vegetarian chowkeeng.se with a menu including Italian dinner and the best views in dishes and pasta. And that’s pasta and stone baked pizza. town. not all. Keep an eye out for our theme evenings. cg kafelino.se kulturenshus.com varvetdelidine.se The meat restaurant which aims to make a strong overall kaptensgården roasters impression. Combines the Restaurant in Gammelstad Stylish restaurant inspired by waldorf spirit of a classic steakhouse Church Town combining clas- local ingredients. Excellent Luleå’s first and largest with local ingredients and sical Norrbotten ingredients selection of wines and in- Chinese restaurant. Serves Italian finesse. with international influences house coffee roastery focusing pizzas, traditional fare and á restaurangcg.se and flavours. Also hosts live on quality. la carte dishes. Lunch buffet is cooking (see page 45). roasters.se a big hit. restaurangkaptensgarden.se restaurangwaldorf.se

for more restaurant tips, visit visitlulea.se

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 47 SHOPPING GUIDE

“The devil’s in the detail” Eleven yearsago they founded Guapo, Norrland’s first grooming store for men. Anna Svanljung destroys the myth that men don’t care about beauty and sheds light on their most popular products.

How did a mother and daughter end up and these days I think it’d be wrong to say younger guys are learning to shave with a opening a beauty store for men? that men don’t care about beauty treat- straight razor. Skincare and hair products “My mother (Anneli Kemoff) was selling ment. I think men have always taken pride are also in demand.” beauty products to women when she in their appearance, but when the big started noticing more and more guys beard and moustache trend started up it Any hot tips for all those guapos coming by. She thought that someone became in some way more acceptable to out there? should be catering for them. I liked the be aware of how you look.” “Whether you’re a cool young man or idea right away.” you’ve reached distinguished middle-age, What sort of things do your customers the devil’s in the detail.” ❖ Beauty treatment is normally want help with? associated with women – why are “A lot of people ask about hydrating we so narrow minded? beard oils or want a really good razor. Guapo also has a well-stocked online store “It was like that when we opened. Yet we There’s a growing demand for classic (guapo.se) which delivers products in Sweden quickly saw a growing trend among men, shaving accessories, and these days even and overseas.

48 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY SHOPPING GUIDE

Shopping guide

SHOPPING MALLS LOCAL GEMS GUAPO SMEDJAN KLASSISK FORM Offers a wide range of groom- Opened in 2002, and won Klassisk form focuses on ing products and accessories the award for Sweden’s best expertise and timeless quality. for men. Guapo is Norrland’s mall in 2010. Norrbotten’s The store collaborates with first and biggest beauty store largest mall. Around 30 stores, a number of Scandinavian for men. confectioner and café across designers and local and inter- four floors. national guests. DIVA Fashion store with a carefully STRAND SHOP IN LAPLAND selected range of clothes, Mall with around 20 stores, Located in Gammelstad shoes and accessories. Brands café and restaurant. Includes Church Town, Shop in Lapland stocked include Acne, Filippa the city’s largest ice cream stocks everything from arts K, Dagmar, Rodebjer and BLK joint and Waldorf, the popular and crafts and Sami handicraft DNM. Chinese restaurant. to clothes and delicacies. Made in the region, its products are MOSAIK SHOPPING Norrbotten and Lappland to Clothing and interiors store fo- The world’s first shopping the core. cusing on colours and shapes centre, hit the headlines when for women of all ages, styles it opened in 1955. Now home LAPLAND HEARTWORK and sizes. to around 20 stores, a café and Arts and crafts shop with a gym with generous opening products inspired by Norrbot- TOPSTORE hours. ten and created with passion. Spanning 1,400 square metres, Here you’ll find home interiors, stocks fashion for men, women STORHEDEN jewellery and delicacies, and and children. Brands include Northern Norrland’s largest much more. Gant, Ralph Lauren, Vero Moda retail park can be found on and Jack & Jones. There is an- Storheden, eight kilometres KALLAX GÅRDSBUTIK other TopStore on Storheden. from the centre of Luleå. Cosy farm shop with interior With excellent parking, offers products, vintage items, deli- BYSTIGT/GIRL CAVE everything from home interi- cacies, handicrafts and tea/cof- Underwear store with a wide ors and automotive parts to fee. Owned by siblings Maria, range of products for any body food and fashion. Kristina and Anders Wikström. size. Personal service. Right Also produce their own foods, next door is Girl Cave beauty NOTVIKSSTAN including the queen-of-the- salon, where you can extend Notviksstan retail park can be meadow drink which took your eyelashes or book a time found on the road between silver in the national artisan for a makeover. Storheden and central Luleå. A food championships. long strip of shops and depart- ment stores, offering a wide ANTIKT OCH UNIKT range of building and garden Shop located in Mörön, outside materials, interiors and cars. Luleå. Run by Bertil Huhta and Elizabeth Eriksson. Specialises in furniture and items from 1820–1950, but also stocks products from before and after this period.

for tips on more stores, visit visitlulea.se

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 49 ACTIVITY GUIDE

Breaking the ice Starting January 2018, Laponia Rederi will be running exclusive tours across the Luleå archipelago on board Viscaria, the icebreaking tugboat. Ulrika Kommes, the operator’s head of administration, explains the attraction of ice.

You’re calling your winter tours a “real cheese and sausage in sliced bread, just Why is that? life icebreaker”. Tell us more. like the locals eat it. And during the trip “Viscaria is a 36-metre long, 12-metre “The idea is to offer a kind of exclusive we’ll serve delicacies featuring local pro- wide icebreaking tugboat with over 6,000 educational tour. A group of no more than duce and flavours from the archipelago. horse power. She packs a lot of power. 12 people will get the chance to experi- You can even swim in an ice hole.” The vessel breaks one metre of ice at two ence something usually not available to knots. It’s amazing to see the ice broken our guests. You’ll get to go down into the How did you come up with the idea? and thrown up. We ran some trial tours engine room and start up the vessel, and “We’ve had it in mind for a while. My last year and got a great response.” ❖ if you’re lucky you can take part in a real partner (Johan Söderholm) has worked assist mission in the harbour. Our guests as a master on Viscaria, the tugboat we’ll are also served tasty treats during the be using for the tours. Even though we’re

trip. After boarding they’ll be given hot used to being out on the ice, it’s always a To find out more about Laponia Rederi, chocolate with an icebreaker sandwich – fascinating experience.” visit laponia.se

50 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY ACTIVITY GUIDE

Activity guide

OUTDOORS KLUBBVIKEN BASKETBALL DINNER ON ICE Attraction situated in Luleå archi- Watch the women (Luleå Basket) A beautifully presented gourmet pelago which is open during late and men (BC Luleå) play their dinner served in a Sami cot on winter, as long as the ice roads home matches at Luleå Energi the Bothnian Bay. Snow-filled can carry traffic. klubbviken.se Arena. setting, with candelabras and luleabasket.com, bclulea.se blazing fires. dinneronice.se MÅTTSUND Situated a little outside Luleå, F21 AVIATION MUSEUM GAMMELSTAD CHURCH Måttsund ski resort has three Exhibition featuring planes, TOWN slopes, three lift systems, a ski rescue vehicles, fire engines, 16th Century church town shop and a restaurant. photography and items reflecting celebrating 20 years as a World mattsundsbacken.se F21 history. Only open Thursdays Heritage Site. Explore this 12.00 p.m.–4.00 p.m. historical setting yourself or join ORMBERGET flygmuseetf21.se up with a guided tour. lulea.se/ Luleå’s favourite outdoor recrea- gammelstad tion complex, with downhill skiing ICE HOCKEY and sleigh slopes as well as cross Watch Luleå Hockey’s men’s and GRÅSJÄLÖREN country skiing tracks. Includes a women’s teams play their home Just a stone’s throw from Södra heating cabin and barbecue areas. matches at the Coop Arena. hamn, this small island is a visitlulea.se luleahockey.se popular spot for excursions on sunny late winter days. Coffee DOG SLED KULTURENS HUS and basic food are served. Experience the wonderful Cultural hub featuring art gallery, visitlulea.se woodland between Piteå and concert halls and library. Includes Luleå by dog sled. Go alone or café, restaurant, tourist office HÄGNAN bring along an experienced guide. and Ticnet ticket service. A culturally historical area along- svedjekojan.se kulturenshus.se side Gammelstad Church Town. Activities for all ages offered all STADSPARKEN NORRBOTTENS MUSEUM year round. Luleå’s lovely park plays host to Exhibitions showcasing Norr- lulea.se/hagnan a theatre, snow sculptures, deco- botten’s cultural history, art and rative lighting and everything in documentary projects. Includes ICE TRACK between. lulea.se café and store with handicraft The most popular winter hiking from Norrbotten. trail, running from Norra hamn SÖDRA VINTERSTRAND norrbottensmuseum.se to Södra hamn and on to Grås- Great spot for outdoor games. jälören. Go skating, kicksledding Snow castle, wind shelter and SF BIO/ROYAL FOLKETS BIO or stroll along the snow pathway. seating and barbecue facilities. Sit back in a cosy armchair and luleå.se Events and tea/coffee served enjoy films which touch the soul, some weekends. entertain and help you escape ICE DRIVING lulea.se reality. sf.se/royalbiografen.se Drive a sports car on ice togeth- er with a professional rally driver SPA on the specially designed tracks INDOORS Relax for a while and enjoy sooth- at Ebbenjarka. visitlulea.se SWIMMING POOL ing spa treatments from Hotell Featuring charming 1950s Clarion Sense SPA and Savoy JOPIKGÅRDEN architecture, Pontusbadet has SPA. clarionsense.se, Jopikgården is situated on Hin- pools for exercise and competi- hotellsavoy.se dersön, in the Luleå archipelago. tion. Gammelstads Badhus is a A genuine gem, all year round. popular choice for families, with a jopik.se relaxation suite and steam sauna. lulea.se

for tips on more activities, visit visitlulea.se

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 51 visitlulea.se lulea.se facebook.com/luleanu instagram/luleanu youtube.com/luleamedia