WORKING TOGETHER IN SUPPORT OF SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS GUIDE BG

GUIDE TO WESTERN STARA PLANINA THE UNKNOWN NATURAL WEALTH AUTHORS: LORA ZHEBRIL ZHIVKO MOMCHEV

EDITOR: VENCI GRADINAROV WWW.BGTEXT.BG

GRAPHIC DESIGN: OILARIPI TREKKING ASSOCIATION WWW.OILARIPI.COM

FRONT COVER: IVAN VELOV

PUBLISHED BY WWF ,

© 2017 WWF BULGARIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

ALL MATERIALS IN THIS PUBLICATION ARE SUBJECT TO COPYRIGHT AND CAN BE REPRO- DUCED WITH PERMISSION. ANY REPRODUCTION IN FULL OR IN PART MUST MENTION THE TI- TLE AND CREDIT THE ABOVE-MENTIONED PUBLISHER (WWF BULGARIA) AS THE COPYRIGHT OWNER. THE DESIGNATION OF GEOGRAPHICAL ENTITIES IN THIS REPORT, AND THE PRE- SENTATION OF MATERIAL, DO NOT IMPLY THE EXPRESSION OF ANY OPINION WHATSOEVER ON THE PART OF WWF CONCERNING THE LEGAL STATUS OF ANY COUNTRY, TERRITORY, OR AREA, OR OF ITS AUTHORITIES, OR CONCERNING THE DELIMITATION OF ITS FRONTIERS OR BOUNDARIES. © PLAMEN DIMITROV THE UNKNOWN NATURAL WEALTH WESTERN STARA PLANINA GUIDE TO THE GUIDEBOOK FOR WESTERN STARA PLANINA WAS DEVELOPED WITHIN THE “FOR THE BALKAN AND THE PEOPLE”PROJECT, AN INITIATIVE OF SIX BULGARIAN AND FOUR SWISS ORGANIZATIONS. IT WILL GIVE YOU A HINT ABOUT SOME REMARKABLE PLACES TO VISIT IN THE AREA AND IT WILL INTRODUCE YOU TO SOME OF THE SIGNIFICANT SUCCESSFUL RESULTS OF THE PROJECT OVER THE PAST FIVE YEARS. IT WILL TELL YOU HOW THE IMPOSSIBLE SOMETIMES BECOMES POSSIBLE AT PLACES WHERE NOBODY EXPECTED.

WITH THE HELP OF THE FINANCIAL SUPPORT OF THE BULGARIAN-SWISS COOPERATION PROGRAM AND THE EFFORTS OF ALL THE EXPERTS FROM THE PARTNER ORGANIZATIONS, SEVERAL FARMERS FROM NORTH-WEST BULGARIA MANAGED TO SUCCESSFULLY COM- PLETE ALL PROCEDURES FOR REGISTRATION AS PRODUCERS , COMPLETELY OUT OF THE GREY SECTOR. DURING THESE FIVE YEARS, INFORMATION CENTERS WERE OPENED, MOUNTAIN BIKING TRAILS WERE DEVELOPED AND HIKING TRAILS WERE MARKED. EACH SUCCESSFUL STEP WAS A RESULT OF THE UNDERSTANDING THAT BUSINESS AND NATURE COMPLEMENT AND DON NOT CONTRADICT EACH OTHER. AN EXAMPLE IS THAT OF THE REPRESENTATIVES OF LOCAL BUSINESSES WHO SUPPORTED VARIOUS CONSERVATION INITIATIVES IN THE AREA.

WWF BULGARIA EXPRESSES SINCERE THANKS TO:

ASSOCIATION OF THE PARKS IN BULGARIA BULGARIAN SOCIETY FOR THE PROTECTION OF BIRDS FOUNDATION FOR ORGANIC AGRICULTURE BIOSELENA BULGARIAN BIODIVERSITY FOUNDATION EXECUTIVE AGENCY FOR SELECTION AND REPRODUCTION IN ANIMAL HUSBANDRY. PRO NATURA/FRIENDS OF THE EARTH SWITZERLAND BIRDLIFE SWITZERLAND SAVE FOUNDATION REDD BALKAN INSTITUTE FOR LABOUR AND SOCIAL POLICY BULGARIAN-SWISS COOPERATION PROGRAMME

ALL THE PEOPLE FROM THE LOCAL COMMUNITIES WHO SUPPORTED US!

WE THANK THE TEAM WHO MADE THIS GUIDEBOOK REALITY LORA JIBREEL MAGDALENA MADZHAROVA VIOLETA STAVROVA ZHIVKO MOMCHEV

WELCOME TO NORTHWEST BULGARIA!

Guide to Western Stara planina 2 © IVAN VELOV IVAN © Welcome to Western Stara Planina!

This guidebook will take you to some Statistics show that this is the poor- of the most beautiful natural wonders est region in the EU. However, its in Western Stara Planina - from the people are rich at heart and famous beautiful alpine peaks to secretive for their delicious cuisine, peppery waterfalls hidden in river valleys. You humour and a knack for merrymak- will discover breath-taking views, old ing. Development of sustainable virgin forests and a unique wealth tourism is among the few livelihood of wild flora and fauna. It is not by alternatives for the local population, chance that this region is part of the and visitors can be sure of a friendly European environmental network reception, natural food and home NATURA 2000, which is the largest comforts. network of protected areas in the world. Have a nice trip!

Guide to Western Stara planina 3 © IVAN VELOV IVAN © The location The Stara Planina mountains are part of the Alpine-Himalayas mountain chain and they are Bulgaria’s longest mountain range. It spans the entire length of the country from west to east, between the border with and the Black Sea. People have named these mountains with many names over the years, but the Turkish one - Balkan is the origin of the name of the entire Balkan Peninsula. In broad terms, Stara Planina can be divided into three sections - Western, Middle, and Eastern. The Western part is the second highest and despite its relative proximity to the capital city Sofia, has remained outside the busy transport corridors and away from industrial zones. Its boundaries span between the Vrashka Chuka Pass to the west and the Zlatishki Pass (Kashana) to the east. Its highest peak is Midzhur (2,168 m).

Guide to Western Stara planina 4 Nature under protection A range of laws and other legislation protect Bulgaria’s natural wealth by defining the types and boundaries of various protected areas and specify the different economic activities that can be carried out there. The use of natural resources in these areas is also regulated by supranational European legislation and by international agreements to which Bulgaria is party and whose conditions it has accepted. This is how Bulgaria’s national ecological network is established to include protected areas designated in accordance DIMITROV PLAMEN © with the Protected Areas Act, and, Conservation of Wild Bird Species, also, protected areas from the of the European Parliament and of European eco-network NATURA the Council of Europe. The national 2000 established in accordance eco-network includes also sites with Directive 92/43/EEC on the categorised as CORINE, Ramsar Protection of Natural Habitats of sites, Important Plant Areas and the Wild Flora and Fauna, and Important Bird Areas. Directive 2009/147/EEC on the

●Protected Areas Protected areas are part of the Eu- ropean Ecological Network NATU- RA 2000. Presently, there are 114 protected areas designated for the protection of wild bird species and covering 20.3% of Bulgaria’s terri- tory, and 228 protected areas for protection of habitats and covering 29.5% of the country’s area. Some protected areas are included in both directives. Presently, the Council of Ministers has designated 342 NATURA 2000 areas on a total of

© WWF BULGARIA WWF © 33.89% of the country’ area. Guide to Western Stara planina 5 ●Protected areas Consistent with the Protected Areas Act, presently Bulgaria has designated 955 protected areas occupying around 5.1% of the country’s area. These are divided into 6 categories: reserves (55), national parks (3), natural landmarks (349), maintained reserves (35), nature parks (11) and protected areas (563). © PLAMEN DIMITROV PLAMEN © Natura 2000 N2000 - NATURA 2000 is a pan-European network of protected areas with the aim of ensuring the long-term survival of Europe’s most valuable and endangered species and habitats in accordance with the main international agreements on protection of the environment and of biodiversity. Ramsar site A Ramsar site is a wetland of international importance, defined by the 1971 Ramsar Convention. Important Bird and Biodiversity Area Important Bird and Biodiversity Area (IBA) are areas critically important for birds around the globe. The IBA network was developed and sites are identified by BirdLife International. As of 2005 the IBA sites in Bulgaria are 114 and take up 23% of the country’s territory.

Guide to Western Stara planina 6 The wealth of the north-west Unique nature, beautiful waterfalls – an endangered species; the Dark and enormous biodiversity: these Purple Cornflower (Centaurea are the calling card of the “pre- atropurpurea) – a rare species; the served” north-western Bulgaria. Globe Flower (Trollius europaeus) It is a place where protection of – included in Bulgaria’s Red Data ecosystems and biodiversity conser- Book; the Martagon Lily (Lilium vation provide social and economic jankae) – included in Bulgaria’s Red benefits for actively involved local Data Book and in the IUCN Red communities. This area is home List; the Yellow Gentian (Genti- to ancient common chestnut ana lutea) – included in Bulgaria’s (Castanea sativa) forests, which Red Data Book and protected by are unique to Bulgaria. The moun- the Bio-diversity Act; the Narcis- tainous parts of the area provide sus-flowered Anemone (Anemo- habitats to valuable plant species ne narcissiflora) – a species endemic such as: the Balkan Mountain to the Balkan peninsula, included Violet (Viola balcanica) – a rare in Bulgaria’s Red Data Book and species endemic to Bulgaria; the in the IUCN Red List; the Serbi- Kovachev Broom (Chamaecytisus an Phoenix Flower (Ramonda kovacevii) – a species endemic to serbica); the Angelica (Angelica Bulgaria; the Bulgarian Eranthis pančičii) – a species endemic to (Eranthis bulgaricus) – a species the Balkan peninsula, included in endemic to the Balkan peninsula; Bulgaria’s Red Data Book under the the Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis) ‘Rare Species’ category. © SVETOSLAV SPASOV, NATUREIMAGES.EU SPASOV, SVETOSLAV ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 7 Ecosystem services Nature provides people with many tangible and intangible benefits, with the collective name of ‘ecosystem services’. The most obvious tangible benefits are: food, timber, and water. Furthermore, nature provides us with extremely important ‘hidden’ services such as purification of water and air, storage of greenhouse gases, maintenance of soil fertility and natural pollination. The recreational possibilities in forests, mountains and rivers such as sports, light walks and even just being surrounded by nature, are endless and extremely favourable for the human mental and physical condition. The developing technological world and increasing severance of human society from its natural environment have made the demand for and value of nature’s invigorating properties even more desired. © IVO DANCHEV IVO ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 8 PAYMENT

BUYER PROVIDER

The user of the Contributes to the ecosystem service preservation or restoration is the buyer. He pays of ecosystems the supplier to maintain the quantity and quality of water, soil fertility etc.

ECOSYSTEM SERVICES The people and the companies they manage depend on natural resources; the survival and success of these businesses are directly related to the preservation of the ecosystem services. It is not easy to think of an economic activity which does not use nature’s products and services in any way. Water, for instance, is fundamental to almost all industrial processes - from the processing of freshly picked tomatoes to large-scale mining operations. However, maintaining of water quality and quantity requires healthy forests and environmentally sound agriculture. Even to this day the world of pharmaceutics relies on active ingredients extracted from wild plants, lichens and mushrooms for its products. The farming and food businesses rely on natural pollination and

Guide to Western Stara planina 9 soil fertility provided by biodiversity. Many tourist businesses rely on preserved nature as an attraction for their customers. And insurance companies realise more and more that ecosystem preservation is the most inexpensive way to reduce the risk of natural disasters. Most businesses have a two-way relationship with nature. Apart from needing natural resources and services, they also affect biodiversity and ecosystems directly through their main activities and indirectly through their chains of suppliers or through their choice of investments. The environmental impact of some companies is serious or they generate large quantities of harmful emissions. The agricultural and food business sector can cause significant damage to ecosystems by impacting soils and water resources. Forestry and its related businesses may cause deforestation and loss of important ecosystem services provided by forests.

The representatives of local tourism businesses in Western Stara Planina have awakened to this connection and to the significance of nature preservation for their business. This is why they have entered a voluntary ecosystem payment scheme in support of biodiversity conservation in the region while reducing the impact of their activities on nature.

Ecosystem service payments are an innovative mechanism to aid reaching the balance between business and nature by committing private companies to preserve the ecosystems on which their businesses depend, and thus protect those ecosystems against extinction while demonstrating © “BIKE VENTURES” “BIKE ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 10 their responsibility to nature. Such a partnership was developed through the For the Balkan and the People Project in the Western Stara Planina area with active involvement of the local tourism sector.

The introduction of ecosystem service payments for biodiversity conservation in the ‘Western Stara Planina’ area of the NATURA 2000 network (including the municipalities of , , , ,

© IVO DANCHEV IVO © , ) is aimed at preserving the recreation services provided by the protected area, and reducing tourism pressure on wildlife through the maintenance, restoration and creation of environmentally sound tourism infrastructure, which controls and reduces the anthropogenic impact on nature while creating good conditions for tourists by ensuring a longer and more interesting stay. © WWF BULGARIA WWF © BULGARIA WWF ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 11 CHIPROVTSI MUNICIPALITY Chiprovtsi Municipality One of its symbols is the Chiprovtsi The town of Chiprovtsi is situated carpet. The carpets are made only in the North-western Stara Planina by hand and their fully identical sides area, close to the border with are evidence of the mastery of the Serbia. Chiprovtsi is a very old weavers. The technique for carpet village, settled since Thracian weaving on looms has not changed times. The town reached its peak since the 17th century. Mainly yellow, in the 16th – 17th century when it brown, red, blue and green are used became a centre of new culture and with entirely natural materials - enlightenment. Having grown into cotton and wool. The motifs are a centre of Catholicism, Chiprovtsi predominantly geometric figures. became known throughout Europe The Chiprovtsi carpets inscribed for its unique schools for carpet on UNESCO’s List of the Intangible weaving, goldsmiths and literature. Cultural Heritage of Humanity - a Nowadays, the wonderful nature well-deserved recognition of their and preserved cultural heritage cultural value, which gives hopes for have transformed the town into an the resurrection of carpet weaving in interesting tourist destination. the region. Distances: Sofia - Chiprovtsi: 130 km; - Chiprovtsi: 280 km; Varna - Chiprovtsi: 460 km; - Chiprovtsi: 520 km. © WWF BULGARIA WWF ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 12 Landmarks The Chiprovtsi museum of history The museum is situated near the central town square, upstream on the left bank of the Ogosta River. Rich col- lections of products of the Chiprovtsi Goldsmith School, carpets, church art and archaeological finds can be seen here. The museum is numbered 69 among the 100 na- tional tourist sites. Entry is free every Thursday. Opening hours: Monday - Friday: 08:00 – 17:00 Saturday - Sunday: 08:00 – 17:00 Phone +359 9554 21 68 The Museum of ethnography The ethnographic exhibition of the museum is situat- ed in the Katerinina House where Bulgaria’s only live collection of plants used as carpet-wool dyes is kept as well. The Museum of Ethnography is dedicated to the material culture of Turlaks - a Bulgarian ethnographic group to which the population of Chiprovtsi belongs. Traditional costumes for the region and many tradition- al objects from Turlak life can be seen there. Opening hours: Monday - Friday: 08:00 – 17:00 Saturday - Sunday: 08:00 – 17:00 Phone +359 9554 21 68 The „Holy ascension of Christ“ church The church is situated above the centre of Chiprovtsi, be- tween the Chiprovska River and the Martinovska River. It was built in the 17th century but the hillock is known to have been a stronghold with many monastery walls. The multicoloured fountain An antique water fountain from the 17th century, embedded in the ground, with interesting ornaments. This is one of the few locations in the municipality with mineral water.

Guide to Western Stara planina 13 The ruins of the „Assumption of saint Mary“ catholic cathedral The cathedral has been dated to the 14th – 17th cen- tury. The ruins are situated in the yard of the Museum of History. It is an interesting fact that Catholicism has had the same impact among the people, as that of orthodox Christianity. A school was opened in the 17th century for young Catholic boys. The contribution of the Catholic monks in the preparation of the Chiprovtsi Uprising in 1688 was enormous. The monastery was raised to the ground during the suppression of the uprising, and the Catholics were massacred. This is the reason why the cathedral and monastery ruins on the hill are the only remains of Catholicism in the town. The Katerinina house This house is situated in the centre of the town of Chiprovtsi. It is also referred to as the Carpet Weaver’s House. The exhibits include old garments, household items, weaving appliances and carpets. The exhibited vertical loom demonstrates the carpet weaving tech- nique. In the yard, the visitors can see a live exhibition of plants used for natural dyeing of the yarn the famous Chiprovtsi carpets are woven from. The Gushovski Monastery and Church The ruins above the town of Chiprovtsi reveal a piece of the past. The only remains of the Gushovski Monastery are a stone cross on the hilltop and the ruins of the church foundations below. The view of the surrounding peaks of the magnifi- cent Stara Planina mountains from the hill is captivating. © ROSEN ILIEV ROSEN ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 14 The „St. Ivan Rilski onastery of Chiprovtsi The monastery is situated in the valley of Chiprovska Ogosta River, approximately 5 km to the north-east of the town. A turn-off from the road between the villages of Belimel and leads to the monastery.

This monastery is dated as far back as the First Bulgar- ian Kingdom (681 – 1018 AD). Destroyed and ravaged multiple times by the enslavers, it had been raised again and again by the patriotic Bulgarian population, each time in a different location. The second raiding of the monastery following the crushing of the 1688 Chiprovtsi Uprising was particularly severe. The rich monastery library containing valuable Slavonic books and icons was destroyed at that time.

Presently, the Chiprovtsi Monastery is a constantly active complex of a church, two chapels, a three-storey bell tower, and residential and farm buildings.

Phone +359 87 897 0388 © ROSEN ILIEV ROSEN ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 15 Tourist trails Chiprovtsi - Chiprovtsi waterfall The Chiprovtsi Waterfall is one of the most beautiful waterfalls around the town. The most suitable time for 3:00 h visiting the waterfall is in spring when it is recharged by active snowmelt from the mountains. The waterfall, situated 7 km to the south-west of the town, towards the Gushovski Monastery and the Yavor Chalet, can be reached along a marked trail. 7 km The first trail marking signposts can be seen in the centre of the town, in front of the Kiprovets Hotel. Start here towards the south-west along Kaleto Street, which difficulty ends in at a T-junction with Balkanska Street. Take a right on Balkanska Street, which soon leads to the end of the town where the asphalt road surface ends and turns into a dirt road passable by car. The road follows smoothly along pictur- esque pastoral landscapes upstream through the Androvitsa River valley.

A fork to the left only 2.5 km from the start of the dirt road leads to the Gushovski Monastery. Less than one hour is needed to reach this fork. The distance to the Gushovski Monastery is less than 1.5 km and can be covered by a leisurely walk in 20 minutes. The monastery itself was destroyed during the 1688 Chiprovtsi Uprising but an old votive stone cross still remains on a small hillock. The place is suitable for resting and picnicking since the steeper and harder part of the trail is ahead.

Past the Gushovski Monastery, the dirt road continues near the former

© WWF BULGARIA WWF © Yavor Chalet and the Priklyutchentsi Guide to Western Stara planina 16 (Adventurers) amusement park nearby. An information signpost and map of the trail to the waterfall can be seen here as well. Leaving the chalet, the dirt road continues west into the forest and in 1.2 km reaches a small bridge over the Spasova River. A forest path beyond the bridge leads upwards and straight to the south along the river valley. Two more bridges, and the sound of the waterfall can be heard. The distance from the start of the path to the waterfall is 800 m. The entire route takes around 3 hours at a leisurely pace.

Chiprovtsi – Chiprovtsi monastery The Chiprovtsi Monastery dates back to the 10th centu- ry and is one of the most important religious establish- 2:00 h ments in the region. It is situated 6 km from the town of Chiprovtsi, downstream along the river with the same name.

From Vaznesenie Square - the town’s central square, 6 km take Prov. Dr. Tako Andreev Street to the north-east and reach the main highway it ends at. Continue east past the cemetery park to reach the old petrol station on the right-hand side of the main highway. A dirt road departs on the opposite side of the petrol station and difficulty runs parallel to and north of the highway. Take the dirt road and soon you will see the monastery signposts.

This eco-trail runs along both banks of the Chiprovs- ka River and offers beautiful views on both sides. The unique limestone forms carved by the river along its lower stretch can be used as resting places.

Most of the time, the trail follows an old cart road through wide meadows and gardens. This road reach- es the Stefanov Bridge; from that bridge, the monas- tery can be reached along an asphalt surfaced road in around 20 minutes. The entire route takes 2 hours in one direction. It can be used only as a walking route. Wooden signposts are placed along the entire trail.

Guide to Western Stara planina 17 Chiprovtsi monastery – the Midzhur peak on the Yazova mountain crest 10:00 h A permit from the border police in Belograd- chik is required for the walk to the Midzhur peak - phone: +359 936 54520. ID cards must be carried.

30 km Standing at 2,168 m, Midzhur is the highest peak in the Chiprovtsi section of the Western Stara Planina Mountains. One of the most beautiful of North-west- ern Bulgaria, this peak allows a wonderful view but is rarely visited because of its proximity to the border and difficulty remoteness from the capital city. It is this location close to the border and the lack of visitors over the years that have helped preserve wildlife here. One of the trails leading to the peak is from the Chiprovtsi Monastery along the crest of the Yazova Mountains.

The Yazova Mountains are a branch of the main ridge of the Chiprovtsi part of Stara Planina starting from the Martinova Chuka peak (2,026 m). This branch starts at approximately 1,750 m above sea level. It then declines in a north - north-western direction and, once past the Gorno Yazovo peak (1,574 m), it turns east-southeast and ends after the Chiprovtsi Monastery.

The path between the Chiprovtsi Monastery and the peak of Midzhur is highly valuable from natural, histor- ical and scenery perspectives. Mainly the old road along the ridge, used since ancient times by trading caravans, should be followed. As elevation is gained, fantastic views of the main ridge of Stara Planina to the south and of the stony jagged ridge of the Shiroka Mountains to the north emerge. Approximately 1,800 m of eleva- tion is gained between the starting point and the peak, rendering this route unsuitable for young children and tourists who have not climbed before. The entire trip takes around 6-7 hours one way, therefore, it would be a good idea to leave early in the morning and only if the weather forecast is good. A different return route is

Guide to Western Stara planina 18 possible - through the Midzhur Chalet and the town of Chuprene.

The trail starts from the Chiprovtsi Monastery (380 m) in a western direction along the dirt road, skirt- ing the hillock above the monastery and passes by a stand-alone building on the left-hand side in around 2 km. The route branches to the left and right in many places and it is important to know that the main road is well trodden and runs on top of the crest or closely beneath it in a western-north-western direction. The same direction leads to the Mitova Chuka peak (1,025 m) at around 1.6 km from the stand-alone building. We are now on the crest of the Yazova Mountains, reached within 1 hour at a moderate walking pace.

It is easy to follow the crest in a western direction from the Mitova Chuka peak. A 20 minute walk along the dirt road leads to a flattened saddle with abandoned build- ings, and another 20 minutes are required to climb the Gotovanova Chuka peak (1,104 m). From there, the crest turns to the northwest and continues up to the Vranski Kamak peak (1,223 m), approximately 30 min- utes away from the Gotovanova Chuka peak.

A dip into a small saddle followed by a climb leads, in another 40 minutes, to the next peak along the crest - Yavorova Glava (1,259 m). Here one is met by impressive views of the crests running parallel to the north and south. The next peak along the route - Orlova Chuka (1,441 m) can be seen to the west, and reaching it takes around 30 minutes.

Once past the Orlova Chuka peak, the route is joined by the dirt road from the village of . The south- ern slopes in this part of the Yazova Mountains were heavily mined for ore and the entrances of many of the pits are still open and many intertwining roads cross the mountain. Continuing towards the west from the Orlova Chuka peak for about 40 minutes leads to the barren peak of Gorno Yazovo (1,573 m).

Guide to Western Stara planina 19 Past that peak, the Yazova Moun- Continuing from there to the south- tains crest veers to the south and west for around 30 minutes leads to follows along the peaks of Koichina the main crest near the Martinova Chuka (1,502 m), Gola Glava (1,485 Chuka peak (2,011 m). The route m) and, in around an hour, reaches follows the right-hand side of the the Martinitsa Shelter (1,473 m) - a border strip which transects this convenient resting location pri- peak. From here, the distance to the or to entering the high, open and Midzhur peak is 6 km and is covered frequently windswept part of the within 1.5 hours. Halfway between mountain. the peaks of Martinova Chuka and Midzhur there is another peak - Or- The Martinitsa Shelter is situated lov Kamak (1,997 m) on which bor- on the boundary of the forest belt. der pyramid No. 330 is positioned. Places for accommodation and places to visit „Kiprovets“ hotel-restaurant This hotel is situated in the Chiprovtsi town centre (opposite of the square), in the foothills of Western Stara Planina. It has 12 double rooms six of which have balconies, and one apartment. All rooms are provided with en-suite bathrooms and cable TV. Free wire- less internet is available through- out the hotel. The guests can use a restaurant, a tavern and an outdoor summer terrace. The restaurant offers traditional food from the

© HOTEL-RESTAURANT “KIPROVETS” HOTEL-RESTAURANT © region.

4 Ivan Stanislavov Street, Chiprovtsi, Chiprovtsi Municipality, Montana District Phone: +359 886 853 311 e-mail: [email protected] www.kiprovets.com

Guide to Western Stara planina 20 „Sinevka“ confectionery workshop and tasting shop Sinevka produces jams and marma- lades using home-made recipes. The small jam producing workshop Sinevka, owned by Maya Angelo- va, in the village of nes- tled in the foothills of the , opened its doors in 2015. Maya makes tasty jams and marmalades with forest fruits and

© “SINEVKA” © plants abundant in the region: strawberries, raspberries, black- berries, blueberries, dandelions; green walnuts; and garden pumpkin. Rosehip marmalade and elderflower syrup are highly sought after. The jams are made on wood burning stoves and do not contain preservatives. Everything is hand-picked before 11 o’clock in the morning when the essential oils are at their strongest. Assisted financially by the Bulgarian Swiss Project ‘For the Balkan and the People’, Sinevka has converted the former bakery in the village into a small forest-fruit processing workshop and a tasting shop. The oven in which pastries and home-made bread will be baked is ready to show how the famous pastries of Chiprovtsi are skilfully made.

The company was named after the beautiful Common Blue Butterfly with its captivating blue wings - a sym- bol of purity and freshness. Now the blue butterfly is perched on each jar bearing the Sinevka label.

52 Ivan Bobanov Street, village of Prevala, Chiprovtsi Municipality, Montana District Contact person: Maya Angelova Phone: +359 885 922 787 e-mail: [email protected]

Guide to Western Stara planina 21 CHUPRENE MUNICIPALITY The Chuprene Municipality is situated in the north-western part of Bulgaria, along the northern and north-western slopes of the Stara Planina mountains, in immediate proximity to the border with the Republic of Serbia. With its unique combination of spacious plains, mountain rivers and proud peaks, the municipality is an attractive tourism destination. TANKOV KRASIMIR © Distances: Sofia - Chuprene: 150 km; Plovdiv - Chuprene: 300 km; Varna - Chuprene: 500 km; Burgas - Chuprene: 540 km. Landmarks The clock tower Built in 1899 by a Macedonian master. The tower is sit- uated in the central part of Chuprene and is designated as a monument of architecture. The „St. Nikolai“ Church Built in 1847, it is situated in the village of Chuprene. This church is sunken into the ground in accordance with the Turkish law in effect at the time regarding the height of Christian buildings. The St. Nikolai Church is designated as a monument of culture. The „John the baptist“ church, village of Varbovo According to the bishopric archives, this church was around as early as 1600, and the commemorative inscription on its naos shows that it was decorated in 1652. It is typical of the church buildings in Bulgaria in the 15th – 17th centuries. This church and all of its mu- rals have been restored. It is a monument of culture.

Guide to Western Stara planina 22 The „Desni suhi pech“ cave This cave is situated 2 km to the south-east of Chu- prene, on the Chukata peak. No special equipment is required for visiting. Traces of cave bears have been found there. Many dome stalagmite formations, santro lakes, channels and bat colonies are present. The cave is a natural landmark. The „Levi i desni suhi pech“ cave It is situated close to the village of Dolni . Many dome stalagmite formations, santro lakes, and bat colo- nies are present. The cave is a natural landmark. The Chuprene Biosphere Reserve The Chuprene Biosphere Reserve was designated in 1977 under UNESCO’s Man and Biosphere program and is part of the international network of biosphere reserves as a benchmark of human impact on the envi- ronment. The biosphere reserve hosts the only compact spruce forests, relatively well preserved from human impact, in Western Stara Planina.

In 1986, a buffer zone was designated around the re- serve to reduce human impact on the ecosystem and to preserve the distinctive character of the reserve. © STOYAN STOYANOV STOYAN © BULGARIA WWF ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 23 Tourist trails The village of Chuprene - Bekinska shobarka locality 4:30 h The Bekinska Shobarka locality is a picturesque area situated 17 km to the south-west of Chuprene, at 1,300 m above sea level. It is a panoramic meadow on the crest of the ridge between the Chuprenska and Manastirska rivers. There is a spring there whose ice-cold water flows 17 km from a tap, and many summer houses are scattered near- by. The Gorski Rai Chalet is less than a kilometre away to the east. The Bekinska Shobarska locality can be reached from Chuprene via the Gorski Rai Chalet along the Ma- nastirska River valley (around 15 minutes walk past the difficulty chalet) or along the Chuprenska River valley. The trail along the Chuprenska River valley is a more interesting hiking route and, unlike the road to the chalet, is difficult to travel by car.

Start west along Asen Balkanski Street from the clock tower in Chuprene. Walk past the tourist information centre (to the right), the Asen Balkanski House Muse- um (to the left) and reach the end of the town where the asphalt road gives way to a dirt road. The road is in a poor condition requiring good tourist boots for hiking. The subsequent 10 km (2.5 hours) walk follows the Chuprens- ka River, passing two very well built shelters (with tables and benches, a fire place and flowing water), a fishery, a Balkan chamois breeding facility, a forest nursery and a small hydropower plant. A marked fork in the road is reached, with an earth road veering to the east (left) to begin a steep climb towards the top of the hill. The Bekinska Shobarka lo- cality is 5 km away (1.5 hours). From there, the Gorski Rai Chalet may be reached, and the Manastirska River valley can be used as the return route to Chuprene. © KRASIMIR TANKOV KRASIMIR ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 24 Midzhur chalet - peak of Midzhur A permit from the border police in Belograd- chik is required for the walk to the Midzhur 2:00 h peak - phone: +359 936 54520. ID cards must be carried.

The nearest staging point for the Midzhur peak (2,169 m) is the Midzhur Chalet (812 m) located 10 km from 5 km . The chalet is reached by car along a road in the Golema Reka river valley, passing by the Kitha hy- dro-power plant and the Midzhur ammunitions factory. From there a hike along the dirt road to the south-west in the Barza Reka river valley is started. In around 30 difficulty minutes (1.7 km), a resting area with several alcoves at 1,016 m above sea level is reached.

A steep path starts to the west from there, climbing along the Kozya Garbina hill crest between the Pokals- ka and Barza Reka river valleys. Once out of the beech forest, the path leads to a shelter. One hundred metres south of the shelter is a spring which can be reached along the path. The route continues along the dirt road to the south-west, to the Kozya Garbina (1,788 m) Pass on the main mountain crest and on the state border. Border pyramid 336 is situated there.

The Midzhur peak is less than 3 km south (to the left) along the boundary strip. The path is in good condition and it is unlikely that you can get lost. The Midzhur peak, on which pyramid 333 is situated, is reached after border pyramids 335 and 334 are passed.

Although the route is well marked and the paths are maintained, it is recommended that trips to the high mountain areas should be postponed in poor weather with low visibility.

Guide to Western Stara planina 25 „Midzhur“ chalet - the Replyanska tsarkva peak A permit from the border police in Belograd- 4:00 h chik is required for the walk to the Midzhur peak - phone: +359 936 54520. ID cards must be carried.

The one-day hike along the mountain crest to the Re- 9 km plyanska Tsarkva peak is very picturesque and pleas- ant. The walk from the Midzhur Chalet follows along the road to the Midzhur peak, climbing the Kozya Gar- bina hill and reaching the saddle with the same name difficulty near border pyramid 336. From there, along the border strip to the north (to the right) you pass two moraines prior to the Oba peak (Obov peak - 2,033 m). The Obov peak is the highest point along the route and is reached in 1 hour from the Kozya Garbina saddle. Border pyra- mid 337 is situated there. A view of the Danube River to the north-east is possible on a clear day.

The route follows to the north-west on a path along the state border. The path goes over the Ostra Chuka peak (1,968 m) and descends to a small saddle before the Replyanska Tsarkva peak (1,969 m). From there, a road veers to the north towards the Gorski Rai Chalet and towards the town of Chuprene, while to reach the peak, one must follow along the state border. The path is steep, with many 10-15 m high single stones. It emerges on the Replyanska Tsarkva peak, where border pyramid 338 is situated. This hike takes 4 hours in one direction. © BIKEAREA ASSOCIATION © BIKEAREA

Guide to Western Stara planina 26 „Gorski Rai“ chalet - Peak of Midzhur A permit from the border police in Belograd- chik is required for the walk to the Midzhur 4:00 h peak - phone: +359 936 54520. ID cards must be carried.

The Gorski Rai Chalet is situated 18 km from the village of Chuprene; a dirt road passable by off-road vehi- 9 km cles leads to it. From this chalet, the Midzhur peak is reached via a marked trail leading straight to the south, across the reserve. The distance to the main crest of the mountain is around 3 km and the trail is entirely uphill. The signposts and markings are poor and much atten- difficulty tion is required. The main crest of the mountain along which the state border lies is reached in around 1 hour. The trail reaches the crest near the pass between the Re- plyanska Tsarkva and the Ostra Chuka peaks (1,968 m).

The state border is followed from there to the south- east. The border strip and the border pyramids are the best points of reference leading to the Midzhur peak. The route passes through the Obov peak (2,033 m; pyramid 337), the Kozya Garbina saddle (pyramid 336), border pyramids 335 and 334, and reaches the Midzhur peak (2,169 m; pyramid 333). © PLAMEN DIMITROV PLAMEN ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 27 Accommodation and lodging „Midzhur“ Chalet The Midzhur Chalet is situated in the Barza Reka river valley, at the foot of the Midzhur peak (2,168 m), 8 km from the village of Gorni Lom. It is situated at 812 m above sea level. The chalet offers 10 beds, toilet facilities, a canteen and a kitchen unit, and full board. Some of the area’s most at- tractive routes start from there, such as the trail to the Midzhur peak and to the Replyanska Tsarkva peak. CHALET “MIDZHUR” © Gorni Lom, Chuprene Municipality, Vidin District Contact person: Petrana Ilieva Phone: +359 888 562 394 e-mail: [email protected]

„Gorski rai“ Chalet This chalet is situated at 1,450 m above sea level, in immediate prox- imity to the Chuprene Biosphere Reserve. It offers 40 beds and indoor toilet facilities; water supply and electricity from a power generator; There is local heating, satellite TV, a tourist kitchen and canteen, and a restaurant. Various meals are made by preliminary order, while snacks and soups are offered at all times. CHALET RAI” ©”GORSKI Chuprene, Chuprene Municipality, Vidin District Contact person: Krasimira Vasileva Phone: +359 887 414 038, +359 878 856 005 e-mail: [email protected] www.gorski-rai.com

Guide to Western Stara planina 28 WWF Bulgaria www.youtube.com

Bulgarian Biodiversity COLLECTIVE MONO 2016 © PLANINA STARA WEST Foundation www.youtube.com

Guide to Western Stara planina 29 GEORGI DAMYANOVO MUNICIPALITY The Georgi Damyanovo Municipality sprawls between the Kopren peak in the Western Stara Planina mountains and the Shiroka Planina mountains (pre-Balkan area) to the north, surrounding the fertile Ogosta River valley. A unique combination of mountain, submontane and forest landscapes with pure air and crystal-clear spring water is typical of this region. The relatively easy access to the mountains is a wonderful reason for the development of mountain and

hunting tourism. BULGARIA WWF © Distances: Sofia - Kopilovtsi: 145 km; Plovdiv - Kopilovtsi: 300 km; Varna - Kopilovtsi: 460 km; Burgas - Kopilovtsi: 520 km. Landmarks The „St. John The Baptist“ Lopushanski Monastery This monastery has been declared a monument of culture national impor- tance. It exists in the place of another monastery built as far back as the Second Bulgarian Kingdom (1185 – 1396), subsequently raised to the ground during the Ottoman invasion. There is no information about the monastery being active until its resto- ration in the middle of the 19th centu- ry, other than the stories about it being reduced to ashes and plundered several times. In 1850, the monks Dionisius, Gerasim and Gedon started its restoration. The current cathedral, the living quarters, the yard gate, © WWF BULGARIA WWF ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 30 the fence and the water fountain rior, the archimandrite Amvrosi. in the yard were built during that During his days, a new residential period. All these buildings and building with two beautifully en- facilities are the work of Master graved balconies was erected. Lilo, the founder of one of the most prominent building schools of the The monastery preserves the mira- Renaissance: the Slavinska School. cle-working icon of the Holy Moth- Regarding architecture, the Lo- er of God, rumoured by worship- pushanska Church resembles the pers to release trickles of myrrh church of the Monastery. All when observed closely. Another icons in the church and in the two highly valuable item is the icon of small chapels within the monastery Jesus Christ whose stare follows are the works of the painters Stan- the visitors wherever they may be islav and Nikola Dospevski, neph- inside the church. ews of the Renaissance painter and iconographer Zahari Zograf. The This monastery was a favourite of Lopushanski Monastery was re- the writer . stored in 1989 because its northern wing was in danger of collapsing. Today, the St. John the Baptist The main credit for the reconstruc- Monastery is an active friary offer- tion goes to the then Father Supe- ing accommodation. Opening hours: Monday - Friday: 07:00 - 20:00 Saturday - Sunday: 07:00 – 20:00. No entry fees for visitors. Phone: +359 889 27 41 72

Chavdar Antov‘s exposition The village of Melyane, 2 km away from the Lopushanski Monastery, is the home and studio of the artist and engraver Chavdar Antov. In his stu- dio in the centre of the village you can see a collection of authentic objects from the past of the area. Chavdar Antov is preparing for the opening of a museum of ethnography. © BULGARIAN PARK ASSOCIATION PARK BULGARIAN ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 31 Phone: +359 886 657 282 e-mail: [email protected] www.antovart.com

The „Kopren, Ravno Buche, Deyanitsa, and Kalimanitsa“ protected area This area was designated for protection in 1973. It combines four picturesque localities in the Kopilovski Divide of the Western Stara Planina mountains. The „Usketo“ protected area This area, a natural centennial spruce forest, is located in the Dalgodel Section of Stara Planina, at 1,550 m above sea level, near the upper forest border. The area was designated a reserve in 1949. Due to its small sur- face area, it was re-designated a protected area in 1992. Tourist trails Dayanitsa locality - the „Vodnia skok“ waterfall The starting point for this route is the Dayanitsa Guest 2:30 h House in the village of Kopilovtsi. The route follows along an asphalt surfaced road to the north-west, towards the Kopren Chalet. After about a 15 minute walk, the road turns left near the artist’s villa, along 6 km a dirt road, and runs through spacious meadows that gradually give way to the forest. The terrain is difficult, with constant climbing and two crossings of the Graf- ska River. Close attention should be paid to the route markings. The duration of this route is 2 hours and 30 difficulty minutes.

Guide to Western Stara planina 32 „Kopren“ chalet - Kopren peak (via the Landzhin skok waterfall) 4:00 h A permit from the border police in Chiprovtsi is required for the walk to the Kopren peak - phone: +359 9554 2087/ext. 25. ID cards must be carried.

5 km Kopren is the most beautiful peak in the region. It is situated on the state border with Serbia, on the main crest of Stara Planina, at 1,965 m above sea level. Partially, it follows through the Alpine mountain part and, therefore, climbing should be done only follow- difficulty ing a favourable weather forecast.

The trail starts from the Kopren Chalet, in a south-west direction, following the signs for the Zbeg locality. A 30 minute walk leads to the Landzhin Skok waterfall. From there, a very steep trail starts to the south – south-east. The mark- ing is poor and close attention is required. The crest and the Ravno Buche large level meadow (1,500 m a.s.l) are reached in around 1.5 hours. The place offers a clear view of the Kopren peak. A trail start- ing from the south-western, and highest, part of the meadow, runs through the pine forest past a 15 m high rock, which is a good point of orientation. Not far past the rock, the trail leaves the pine forest.

Here the slopes are covered by juniper which makes movement difficult. The Kopren peak and the state border are strait to the west from here up the slope. In some © ROSEN ILIEV ROSEN ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 33 locations, the trails branch into the juniper, but, in the end, all of them lead to the crest near the Redenia Kamak - a beautiful rock above which the border picket is posi- tioned. The Kopren peak (1,964 m a.s.l), on which border pyramid 318 is situated, is reached via a steep path to the north (right) of the rock. The total duration of this hike in one direction is 4 hours. The return to the Kopren Chalet may be made along the alternative route, via the Vidichov Kamak peak. © ROSEN ILIEV ROSEN © © ROSEN ILIEV ROSEN ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 34 „Kopren“ chalet - Kopren peak (via Vidichov kamak) A permit from the border police in Chiprovtsi 4:00 h is required for the walk to the Kopren peak - phone: +359 9554 2087/ext. 25. ID cards must be carried.

5,5 km This route is easier, but does not go through the beau- tiful Lanzhin Skok waterfall. The wide dirt road (the so-called Military Road) leaves the Kopren Chalet to the south-west. In 500 m the road reaches the Militsa River valley and curves to the west along its opposite bank. difficulty Following 800 m of a slightly steep slope, the trail, branching multiple times, leads to the crest line of the ridge near a wide meadow with wonderful views. There the Military road must be abandoned and the hike continues to the south-west along the crest. The trail is unmarked. Several meadows where the trail may be lost are passed through, but the correct direction is south- west and only along the crest-line of the ridge. Approx- imately 1.5 km later, the Vidichov Kamak peak (1,398 m) on which a survey monument is situated, is reached. The Ravno Buche locality is 400 m to the south-west of the peak. From there, the Kopren peak is reached via the route described above. Walking past the Lanzhin Skok waterfall is possible on the return hike. Descend- ing from Ravno Buche to the waterfall is difficult and is best done with strong walking boots and in dry weather. © PLAMEN DIMITROV PLAMEN ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 35 Accommodation and lodging „DAYANITSA“ guest house Dayanitsa Guest House is situat- ed in the village of Kopilovtsi, at 1,000 m above sea level, at the foot of the Kopren peak. There are 7 rooms (20 beds) in the house, with 4 double rooms and 3 studios. Each room has en-suite bathrooms, satellite TV and a terrace. The first floor of the house is arranged as a canteen with 36 seats, with a furnished kitchen and a portable barbecue. The guests may make use of the open terrace (summer garden). © “DAYANITSA” GUEST HOUSE GUEST “DAYANITSA” ©

Kopilovtsi, Georgi Damyanovo Municipality, Montana District Contact person: Emil Ivanov Phone: +359 878 245 636; +359 887 827 242 e-mail: [email protected]

„KOPREN“ holiday village The Kopren Holiday Village is The village is situated directly be- situated near Kopilovtsi, at 1,000 m low the Kopren peak (2,119 m above above sea level. It provides 16 beds sea level). in 4 single-family bungalow-type houses, and a canteen. Each house (bungalow) has a veranda, two single beds and one double bed, a refrigerator, and local heating. The canteen is equipped with all the fa- cilities required for the preparation and serving of food. Portable barbe- cues and a fire place are available. “KOPREN” HOLIDAY VILLAGE HOLIDAY “KOPREN”

Guide to Western Stara planina 36 Kopilovtsi, Georgi Damyanovo Municipality, Montana District Contact person: Alexander Ivanov Phone: +359 889 318 298; +359 877 751 766 e-mail: [email protected] www.koprenbg.com

„KRISTI“ guest house The KRISTI Guest House is situat- ed in the village of Kopilovtsi. The house is located at the exit from the village on the way towards the wonderful Koprenski Balkan. It has four double-bed and four three- bed rooms. Each room is provided with a bathroom, TV, local heating, covered barbecue with a separate kitchen area, where the guests can make their own food. The total ca- pacity of the house is 20 persons. © “KRISTI” GUEST HOUSE GUEST “KRISTI” ©

Kopilovtsi, Georgi Damyanovo Municipality, Montana District Contact person: Krasimir Zamfirov Phone: +359 885 610 655: +359 878 161 205 e-mail: [email protected]

Guide to Western Stara planina 37 BELOGRADCHIK MUNICIPALITY Belogradchik is situated in the picturesque north-western part of Stara Planina, at the south-western foothill of the Belogradchik circle. The village was created by the Romans who built a castle in the location of today’s Belogradchik castle.

This piece of paradise in Bulgaria, with its crystal clear air, offers wonderful opportunities for hiking and bicycling, extreme sports such as mountaineering and cave exploration, hunting and fishing, astronomical observations, and cosy rest areas. © IVAN VELOV IVAN © Distances: Sofia - Belogradchik: 180 km; Plovdiv - Belogradchik: 350 km; Varna - Belogradchik: 500 km; Burgas - Belogradchik: 600 km. Landmarks The Belogradchik rocks Beautiful rock formations, a natural phenomenon of national significance. The rock fairy tale spreads from west to east between the Vedernik peak, via the village of Borovitsa, and the village of Belotintsi. The Belograd- chik Rocks impress not only with their more than 230 million years of age, but also with the scores of legends related to the wondrous natural forms, such as the Ma- donna, the Monks, the School Girl, Orpheus, etc. The Belogradchik castle This monument of culture of national significance is one of Bulgaria’s best preserved castles. It was built in the 3rd century AD by the Romans to protect strate- gic roads in the region. In late antiquity, the castle

Guide to Western Stara planina 38 © IVAN VELOV IVAN © was used as part of the Roman and, later, Byzantine empire defence system. It was further built by Bulgar- ians and was among the latest Bulgarian strongholds conquered by the Ottoman Turks. The castle compris- es of three castle yards and one double square.

Opening hours: Summer: Mon - Sun: 9:00 – 18:00 Winter: Mon - Sun: 9:00 – 17:00

Museum of History The museum is established in the Panova House - a specimen of Western Bulgarian architecture of the Renaissance. The exhibition presents the history, the livelihoods and the customs of the local population - the Turlak ethnographic group

Opening hours: Monday - Sunday: 9:00 – 12:00; 14:00 – 17:00 Address: Belogradchik, 1 Tsolo Todorov Street, Knyaz Boris I Street Phone: +359 93 653 469

Guide to Western Stara planina 39 Museum of natural history The museum opened its doors for visitors in 1975 with an exhibition of 520 items which are the most attractive part of the rich biological diversity of North-western Bulgaria.

Opening hours: Monday - Sunday: 9:00 – 12:00; 14:00 – 17:00 Address: Belogradchik, 35 Tsolo Todorov Street Phone: +359 93 653 231 Astronomical observatory The observatory is owned by the Institute of Astronomy at the Bulgarian Academy of Sciences. It allows obser- vation of the moon, the Saturn ring, the satellites of Jupiter, the Venus crescent, comets, stars, star clusters, and galaxies.

Opening hours: after 20:00. Visiting requires booking in advance (2 - 3 days) in order to arrange for an astronomer. Phone: +359 93 653 372 www.astro.bas.bg The Venetsa cave The cave is situated near the village of Oreshak. It is around 200 m long following its main axis and is excep- tionally beautiful, rich in formations and accessible for visits. The exploration of the cave takes one hour and a half. No special equipment is required. The colourful stalactites make it Bulgaria’s most beautiful cave.

Opening hours: Monday -Friday: 9:00 – 18:00 Saturday - Sunday: 9:00 – 18:00

Guide to Western Stara planina 40 The Magura cave The Magura is one of Bulgaria’s most beautiful caves. It comprises a main gallery and three branches. The total length of the open galleries is around 2,500 m. The temperature inside the cave is a constant 12 degrees year-round. This cave is home to formations which are rich in form and size - stalactites, stalagmites, stalac- tones, sintro wells, cave pearls, and ‘cave milk’.

The cave is used as a facility where champagne ages in natural conditions. Taking photographs in the Magura Cave is allowed.

Opening hours: April 1 - October 30: Monday - Friday: 10:00 – 17:00 November 1 - March 31 Saturday - Sunday: 10:00 – 16:00 The groups are admitted on the hour. Phones: +359 89 448 1964 +359 89 448 1955 www.magura-cave.com © ROSEN ILIEV ROSEN ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 41 Tourist trails Falkovets hamlet (the „Madonna“ inn) - village of 3:00 h Borovitsa - Borov kamak locality This route begins at the Madonna Inn in the Falkovets hamlet of the village of Yanovets, along the asphalt road between the village of Ruzhantsi and Belograd- chik. It is suitable for hikers and bicycle riders. Follow 7 km the road from the Madonna Inn to the west, towards Borovitsa village (Belogradchik). Pass the forks lead- ing to the villages Srednogriv and Chuprene, and in around 4 km you will reach Borovitsa. There is a shop and a bar there, where you can take a break. difficulty From there, the route continues on to the north along the road for the Holy Trinity Monastery, known also as the Red Church. The branch from the main road starts in front of the Mayor’s office in the village and is signposted. If in doubt about the correct road, ask someone in the village. The monastery is 1.4 km away from the Mayor’s office. A dirt road continues from the Red Church to the Borov Kamak local- ity. The distance is exactly 1 km, with a water tap halfway. This hike requires around 3 hours.

It can be made longer by visiting the Tamni Pech Cave via the path branching off to the north-west near the water tap, prior to the Borov Kamak locality. In this man- ner the entire hike will take around 4.5 hours. © WWF BULGARIA WWF ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 42 Village of Stakevtsi - Bela Voda Stakevtsi Waterfall 1:30 h This route starts from the Stakevtskite Kashti guest house complex, south along the asphalt surfaced road, through the entire village, and onto a gravel road. Walk only on the road, along the river. You will pass by a small shelter and in around one hour you will reach the 4 km Bela Voda waterfall. It comprises of two subsequent waterfalls with a total height of 15 m. Several small- er waterfalls can be seen along the river. The road is marked by signposts and red stripes.

difficulty

Falkovets hamlet („Madonna“ Inn) – village of Yanovets - „Planinitsa“ 5:00 h chalet - town of Belogradchik The route between the Falkovets Hamlet and the town of Belogradchik is very beautiful, with striking pan- oramic views. It is suitable both for hiking and bicycle riding in both directions. Leave from the Madonna 14 km Inn to the north-west along the asphalt-surfaced road towards the village of Ruzhintsi, and towards the Montana - Vidin highway. In around 300 m, take the branch towards Varbochets and Oreshets. In 1.6 km, take yet another turn to the left, towards the village of difficulty Yanovets. There, the asphalt surfaced road ends and a marked bicycle route starts towards the Planinitsa Chalet. A dirt road exits the village past the brandy still and continues to the north-west among the vine- yards of the village. In around 600 m, you will reach an impressive rock allowing a panoramic view. The dirt road changes to a forest road and continues up towards the Planinitsa Chalet. A marked trail leading to the chalet branches off the forest road in approxi- mately 4 km after the end of the village.

From the Planinitsa Chalet, continue along the marked trail in a north - north-western direction and

Guide to Western Stara planina 43 you will reach the crest in around 300 m. Turn left on the crest (north-west) and soon a wondrous westward descent will begin along a trail through the beech forest above the town of Berkovitsa. The entire route is 14 km long and is walked in around 5 hours. Accommodation and lodging „Stakevskite kashti“ guest house complex The complex comprises of three houses - the Berchina, Anina, and Marina house. Each house has a separate landscaped yard, garden lighting, water pond, barbecue, and many resting areas. The guests may use the conference hall and a canteen with 28 seats and a fully equipped kitchen. A tennis table and fitness equipment are also available.

Stakevtsi, Belogradchik Municipality, Vidin District Contact person: Boyan Minkov © “STAKEVSKITE KASHTI” GUEST HOUSE COMPLEX HOUSE GUEST KASHTI” “STAKEVSKITE © Phone: +359 888 764 423 e-mail: [email protected] www.stakevci.com

„Madonna“ inn, Falkovets hamlet, village of Yanyovets The inn is situated in the Falkovets hamlet of the village of Yanyovets, at the very start of the Belogradchik Rocks natural phenomenon. The inn offers two studios, six bedrooms, ten double and one single rooms, each with en-suite bathrooms, TV and wireless Internet; a conference hall with 40 seats, a tavern with 60 seats, and a summer garden. There one can delight in tasty Bulgarian cuisine and unique Turlak specialities, and, also, judge local wine and brandy by their merits.

Guide to Western Stara planina 44 A yard, 0.7 ha in size, provides convenient infrastructure for guests with camping vehicles.

The area provides wonderful con- ditions for camping and cycling tourism, as well as cave exploration, hunting, fishing, and rafting. © “MADONNA” INN “MADONNA” ©

Falkovets, Yanyovets, Belogradchik Municipality, Vidin District Contact person: Radoslav Mladenov Mobile phone: +359 894 774 746 e-mail: [email protected] www.hanmadona.com

„Borovitsa“ winery Nestled among the Belogradchik cessed grapes mean that only small Rocks near the village of Borovitsa, amounts of wine are produced in the this winery aims to create unique Borovitsa Winery. batches of wine with the specific character of the region. The region of North-western Bulgaria offers good opportunities for the grow- ing of grapes and production of excellent wine. Some vineyards are situated below the Belogradchik Rocks, on red sandy-stony soil. The extremely unique qualities of pro- © “BOROVITSA” WINERY “BOROVITSA” ©

Borovitsa, Belogradchik Municipality, Vidin District Technology Expert and Manager: Adriana Srebrinova Phone: +359 887 806 200 e-mail: [email protected] www.winwines.net

Guide to Western Stara planina 45 VARSHETS MUNICIPALITY Varshets is situated in North- western Bulgaria, at the foot of the Todorini Kukli peak on the northern slopes of Stara Planina. In ancient times its name had been Medeca (medicus – the Latin for curative). This resort offers wonderful medicinal bath treatment conditions. The thermal waters of its spring vary in temperature between 32.6 and 36.4 °C and are used to

treat various illnesses. DIMITROV PLAMEN © Distances: Sofia - Varshets: 84 km; Plovdiv - Varshets: 232 km; Varna - Varshets: 469 km; Burgas - Varshets: 352 km. Landmarks The town‘s art gallery The gallery is situated in the Old Classroom School built in 1872 and contains 664 paintings and 27 sculptures of wood, clay and gypsum. Most often, the exhibits by local and foreign artists reflect the beauti- ful nature of the area.

Phone: +359 9527 3057 Romantic boulevard with pane trees This is a 2 km pedestrian zone. The trees are almost 100 years old and their large crowns form a green tunnel from the centre of the town of Varshets almost as far as the Zanozhene neighbourhood. Old mineral water fountain This fountain was built in 1934 when the town became a resort. Information boards explain the chemical composition of the water which is clear, colourless, with slight odour of hydrogen sulphide and a tem-

Guide to Western Stara planina 46 perature of around 37°C. The water is described as hypothermal, slightly mineralized, hydrocarbon-sul- phate sodium water containing oxidizing sulphuric compounds. New mineral water fountain This fountain was built in 2002 on the central bou- levard Republika. The chemical composition of its water is the same as that of the old mineral water fountain and is suitable for daily use. The new mineral bath This bath was built in 1930, with characteristic ter- races for sun-treatment. An enormously large clock decorates its central façade, and sculptures of small bathing boys sitting on enormous snails grace the four corners of its roof as a symbol of rapid healing. The forms of semi-god nymphs personify the life-giving forces of nature. They guard this ‘temple of health’ where miraculous mineral water gushes forth in a pool with Roman mosaics. The „St. George the Conqueror„ temple This cruciform-domed basilica was started in 1902. Its iconostasis was completed in 1906. This temple is a monument of culture of local significance. The ico- nostasis was engraved by a local master and the icons were painted by the famous academician Ivan Stefan- ov. Some icons are dated as 17th and 18th centuries. The four chandeliers made in Jerusalem and in Istan- bul are among the valuable items there. These were donated by local wealthy people for the sanctification ceremony of the temple. The two central candelabra are also of interest - they have been donated in 1943 by Dimitar Penev, a member of Botev’s revolutionary detachment. In 1992 the temple was fully restored and decorated with beautiful murals. The patron saint’s day, St. George’s day, on which a boiled-mut- ton offering is made, attracts many worshippers.

Guide to Western Stara planina 47 The Klisura monastery of „St. St. Cyril and Methodius“ Established during the first half of the 13th century, this monastery has been a centre of Bulgarian education and literacy, affirming the Christian religion, the Bulgarian ethnicity and state. It was restored in 1937. The temple iconostasis was declared a monument of culture. The monastery is situated 12 km to the south-west of the town of Varshets. Tourist trails Varshets - Todorini kukli peak The resort town of Varshets is a starting point for sever- al beautiful tourist routes in the Western Balkan. Some 5:00 h of those are suitable for bicycles. The highest and most beautiful peak in the area is Todorini Kukli reached in around 5 hours walking from the centre of the town.

Todorini Kukli (1,785 m) is the highest peak of the 10 km Koznitsa ridge along the main crest of the Stara Planina mountains. It is one of the symbols of the town of Var- shets. This is a group of peaks resembling, when looked at as one formation, a reclining feminine figure. There difficulty are legends about the maiden Todora after whom the peak is named.

The south-western neighbourhood Zanozhene of the town of Varshets (3 km) can be reached on foot or by regular urban network bus. The central street leads to the Gradishteto locality to the south-west, where the Stara Reka river and the Ladrovitsa River have lain large silt cones.

The green-marked route continues to the south-west along an asphalt surfaced road over the left-hand slope of the Stara Reka river valley and against its flow. The Krushachki peak (1,738 m) and the Zeleni Rid peak (1,714 m) stand up straight to the south. After the first

Guide to Western Stara planina 48 two turns along the road, the valley narrows quickly. The next sharp turn brings the hiker to the Rolko- va River confluence. Another confluence, that of the Dragieva Bara River, follows one hundred metres fur- ther up (to the south-west). This is the Zeleni Dyal lo- cality named after the ridge descending from the Zeleni Rid peak (1.5 hours from the Zanozhene neighbour- hood). The buildings of the forestry enterprise present there can be used as shelter in poor weather.

The route crosses the Stara Reka river bed in a west- ward direction and starts along a trail against the flow of the Dragieva Bara River. In around 45 minutes the path ascends the left valley slope towards the Popovski Rat ridge watershed. This path is rather steep and con- tinues westward through an old growth beech forest, turning briefly due north and straight up the slope to reach the Popovo Torishte meadow on the crest of the ridge.

The green marking continues south along the crest and soon the trail exits the forest belt and reaches the saddle between the Srednata Kukla and Golyamata © WWF BULGARIA WWF ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 49 Kukla peaks (3 – 3.5 hours). 20-25 m high cliffs and crags dapple the slope there. Continue south along the rocky crest, among junipers and blueberries, and you will climb the Todorini Kukli peak where a survey monument and a concrete founda- tion are situated.

Following the marking poles from the Todorini Kukli peak leads to

© IVAN VELOV IVAN © the main Kom-Emine route. The branches to the west and east along this red-marked international route lead, respectively, to the Petrohan and Proboinitsa chalets.

One alternative route descending to the north is the trail starting from the pole-marked route north of the Todorini Kukli peak and leading to the Elenkov Klad- enets locality, the Klisura Monastery, the village of Spanchevtsi and the town of Varshets.

Varshets - Zeleni del locality The Zeleni Del locality is 10 km to the west of the town of Varshets and is the most convenient starting point 3:00 h for the climb towards the Todorini Kukli peak. This locality is situated in the Stara Reka river valley, at the foot of the Koznitsa ridge. It includes spacious mead- ows, wild raspberries and beech forests. This location is convenient for picnics, outings, and tents. A stage built 10 km in the locality hosts the annual singing competition every first Sunday of July, during the traditional Cele- bration of the Resort, Mineral Water and the Balkan. Zeleni Del can be reached by bicycle or car from the difficulty town of Varshets, via the Zanozhene neighbourhood and up (south-west) along the main road in the Stara Reka river valley.

Guide to Western Stara planina 50 Varshets - Byalata voda locality Byalata Voda is a beautiful locality in the Banshtit- sa River valley and is covered by beech forests and 2:00 h spacious meadows. It is situated at the foot of the Koznitsa ridge, at 774 m above sea level. The local- ity is 7 km from the town of Vashets. The old beech forests are inhabited by interesting animals. An asphalt surfaced road leaving to the south – south- 7 km west from the stadium in the town allows access by bicycle or car. A hike to the Vodopada locality above the Zanozhene neighbourhood or to the Minkovi Bani locality near the village of Spanchevtsi can be made difficulty from Byalata Voda.

Ivanchova polyana eco-trail - „Marikina polyana - Raiski waterfall“ 1:00 h The route starts from the park in the centre of Varsh- ets and proceeds to the south along a signposted trail. This light hike takes around 1 hour and is suitable for bicycles as well. The Ivanchova Polyana (Meadow) lo- cality can be reached in less than one kilometre from 2 km the end of the town. Following the road to the south

difficulty © WWF BULGARIA WWF ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 51 and up along the Bashtitsa River valley to the Raiski Kat locality (1 km), one reaches a resting site with bowers. The Raiski waterfall - a beautiful two-stage water cascade - is immediately adjacent.

This area features high biodiversity with more than 400 vascular plant species and more than 50 bird species. The area is situated in the highest part of the park and connects it to the centennial forests of the Koznitsa part of Stara Planina. Seven plant species listed in the IUCN Red Data List can be found around the eco-trail. The route is signposted.

Varshets - Vodopada locality The Vodopada locality - a beautiful two-stage cascade - lies to the south of the Zanozhene neighbourhood 2:00 h along the Orloshtitsa River valley. The waterfall can be reached along the nearby asphalt surfaced road which branches to the left (south) of the main road in the Zanozhene neighbourhood next to the Probuda Com- munity Centre. This place allows for pleasant bicycle 5 km rides from the town centre, and for picnicking. The route is signposted.

difficulty Accommodation and lodging The „Sunny Garden“ Spa Hotel **** Situated in the town centre, in the renewed pedes- trian zone known as the Boulevard with Plane Trees. This hotel offers a small indoor pool with mineral wa- ter, sauna, steam bath and a water-jet tub. A gym is available as well. During the warm months, the guests

Guide to Western Stara planina 52 can make use of the outdoor pool around which there are a mini-bar and reclining chairs and umbrellas, and a children’s playground on the green meadow in the yard. © “SUNNY GARDEN” SPA HOTEL SPA GARDEN” “SUNNY ©

Varshets, Varshets Municipality; Montana District Phone: +359 952 72 480; +359 882 743 000 e-mail: [email protected] www.sunnygarden-spa.com

The „ATA“ Spa Hotel **** Situated in the town of Varshets. This hotel offers a full range of spa services to its guests, as well as a classical restaurant with 90 seats in pleasant surroundings, a summer house with 50 seats, a lobby bar, a piano bar and an aqua bar, a 50 seat © “ATA” SPA HOTEL SPA “ATA” © conference rooms and a meeting room.

City of Varshets, Varshets Municipality; Montana District Phone: +359 2 816 44 22; +359 882 099 900; +359 882 555 505 e-mail: [email protected] www.ata-spa.bg

Guide to Western Stara planina 53 BERKOVITSA MUNICIPALITY The town of Berkovitsa is situated day icons are being painted in at 400 m above sea level at the the iconography workshop at the foot of the Berkovitsa Mountain monastery. which is one of the highest parts of Western Stara Planina. This town is a starting point towards the most visited peak, Kom (2,016 m), and a starting point for the Bulgarian portion of the Kom- Emine international tourist route. The town symbols are a beech, a raspberry leaf, and a chestnut. Some of the few remaining natural edible chestnut forests occur here.

The municipality is home to Bulgaria’s fourth largest monastery - the Klisura Convent of St. St.

Cyril and Methodius. Even to this VELOV IVAN © Distances: Sofia - Berkovitsa: 84 km; Varna - Berkovitsa: 450 km; Plovdiv - Berkovitsa: 230 km; Burgas - Berkovitsa: 365 km. Landmarks The clock tower The tower is situated in the town centre and is the symbol and logo of the town. Built between 1762 and 1764, it continues to measure time with its coppery tone even to this day. © OILARIPI TREKKING ASSOCIATION TREKKING OILARIPI ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 54 „Ivan Vazov“ museum house The museum is situated in a building erected in the early 19th century and designated a valuable monu- ment of architecture. Ivan Vazov lived here between 1879 and 1880. © OILARIPI TREKKING ASSOCIATION TREKKING OILARIPI ©

Opening hours: Mon - Fri: 08:30 – 17:30; Sat – Sun: 08:30 – 17:30; Town of Berkovitsa, 11 Poruchik Grozdanov Street, Phone +359 953 88 046

The town‘s art gallery The Berkovitsa Art Gallery is situated in the first school of the town, built in 1872.

Town of Berkovitsa, Timok Street, Phone +359 953 88043

Museum of ethnography This museum is listed among the 100 national tourist sites. Its visitors can see more than 13,000 exhibits and become familiar with the traditional material and spiri- tual culture of the town and of the region. The museum showcases most typical crafts of the past - pottery, mak-

Guide to Western Stara planina 55 ing of copper products, silkworm-breeding etc. Ethnic costumes, carpets and city life are also represented. Visitors are amazed by the indoor bath and its interest- ing water heating method, the ceramic sewerage system and the ‘sink’ in the kitchen.

Opening hours: Mon - Fri: 08:00 – 12:00; 14:00 – 17:00 Sat – Sun: 09:00 – 12:00; 14,00 – 17:00 Address: Berkovitsa, 7 Poruchik Grozdanov Street Phone +359 953 88045 e-mail: [email protected]

The „Birth of the most holy mother of Christ“ church This church was built during the Bulgarian Renaissance and has been a centre of education. Rebuilt in 1843 and gilded in 1867, it has a high-ceilinged indoor space of a monumental, stern nature, lighted by an exquisite iconostasis made by the wood carver Stoicho Fandakov. The icons were painted by Dimitar Zograf, also from Samokov. Their value is exceptionally high and they rank among the best Renaissance painting works. The bell-tower was built in 1897.

The „St. Nikolai Miracle Worker“ church This shrine was built in 1871 by the master Georgi Dz- hongar. The iconostasis is dynamic, bent in the middle towards the apse, and the motifs are flat and schematic. Roman bath This is a monument of culture. The present building was constructed in 1665, partially over the foundations of a Roman bath built after the Berkovitsa region was conquered by the Romans.

Guide to Western Stara planina 56 „KALETO“ antique and medieval castle A monument of culture of historic significance. The archaeological digs started in 1961 and have disclosed an outer and inner castle wall from late antiquity, with premises in between. Two basilicas are embedded into the outer castle wall. Archaeological discoveries from a Thracian village have been made on the south-eastern slope. Ore mining and gold smelting were practised af- terwards, during the time of the Romans. The Kaleto set- tlement was reconstructed and fortified as a stronghold during the 4th-5th century. Architectural details such as columns and column heads, have been discovered, and various findings such as ceramics, bricks, implements, weapons, and coins, have been gathered. Tourist trails Berkovitsa - Zdravchenitsa peak The route towards the Zdravchenitsa Peak (1,176 m) allows a beautiful walk in the Berkovitsa Mountains - 2:30 h a rather shorter and easier walk than the climb up the mountains’ highest peak, Kom (2,016 m). The route begins from the Begovitsa neighbourhood of the town of Berkovitsa. It follows along the Marble Factory, changing there to a dirt road with green-stripe mark- 6 km ings up the Berkovska River valley. Some 300 m past the factory leads to the confluence of the Zhenska and Golyamata Reka rivers. The green markings continue along the dirt road to the south-west along the Goly- difficulty amata Reka river valley, and a dirt road veers to the right (west) along the Zhenska River valley for the Zdravchenitsa peak.

Two kilometres along the dirt road follow west into the river valley, after which the road climbs up along the left-hand river bank to the north-west. Around 300 m height is gained for another 1.2 km and the ridge crest (940 m above sea level) is reached. The Zdravchenitsa peak is the first height to the west along the crest. The easiest climb is along the dirt Guide to Western Stara planina 57 road which meanders widely, and in around 2 km reaches the highest point of 1,176 m. The peak itself is barren and stony, and allows wonderful views towards the Western Balkan mountain and to the Berkovit- sa pan valley. 300 m down the western slope is the abandoned Zdravchenitsa Chalet which can be used as a temporary shelter in poor weather. © PLAMEN DIMITROV PLAMEN ©

Berkovitsa - Haidushki Waterfalls The Haidushki Waterfalls protected locality is situat- ed in the beautiful Golyama Reka river valley, 9 km 3:00 h from the town of Berkovitsa. It can be reached along a dirt road marked with green stripes. This route is suitable for hiking and for bicycles as well. Its dis- tance can be covered in around 3 hours in one direc- tion. The markings begin at the Marble Factory in the 9 km Begovitsa neighbourhood of Berkovitsa. The road fol- lows south-west all the time, passing at the start some scattered farm buildings before it enters the forest where rest areas are constructed every few kilometres. difficulty Magnificent views to the Kasi Del and Tuzlata locali- ties open up on both sides of the trail. Both waterfalls are 2 - 3 m high. The trail is signposted.

Guide to Western Stara planina 58 Berkovitsa - Sinia vir locality The Sinia Vir locality is situated along the Shabovitsa River valley, around 4 km from the Berkovitsa town 2:00 h centre. Starting from the Begovitsa neighbourhood is also possible. The route is suitable for hikers and bicycle riders.

It starts from the centre of Berkovitsa, leading to 4 km the south-west past the clock tower and the Malina kindergarten, and leaves the town along Turisticheska Street. This street continues as a dirt road through the lands of the town and in around 1 km crosses the difficulty asphalt road from the Begovitsa neighbourhood to- wards the Kom Chalet. If you leave from the Begovitsa neighbourhood, you can reach this point along the asphalt road too.

The asphalt road continues up towards the chalet (south) and soon reaches the Welcome to the Berkovs- ki Balkan sign. From there, the route continues to the south – south-west across an oblong meadow to the right of the road. A cement pillbox is passed not far from the river bed. The Sinia Vir (Blue Pool) locality, with the rest areas and fireplaces established around, is located 50 m away from this pillbox. The water in this ice-cold pool is more than 1 m deep. The trail is signposted. © WWF BULGARIA WWF ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 59 Berkovitsa - Kaleto forest park The Kaleto peak (515 m) is situated above the park of the town of Berkovitsa. It can be reached in 20 minutes 0:20 h from the town centre. Archaeological digs in 1961 have uncovered and dated a castle wall and two late-antiq- uity basilicas, a Thracian shrine and many artefacts evidencing advanced ore mining and goldsmith’s trade in ancient times. The Kaleto peak allows a panoramic 1 km view of the Stara Planina mountain crest, the town of Berkovitsa and its surroundings.

difficulty

„Kom“ chalet - The Kom Chalet can be reached from the town of Berko- vitsa along an asphalt-surfaced road (16 km) or along a 2:00 h marked hiking trail from the Begovitsa neighbourhood. The asphalt road ends in front of the new Kom Chalet in the Gornata Kuria locality. From there, continue along a wide gravel road to the old Kom Chalet less than 1 km away. A direct path with red markings starts behind the 4,5 km new chalet.

From the old Kom Chalet, the route continues along a forest path with red markings, initially straight to the difficulty west, but then, in 150 m turning south to begin a steep climb through a coniferous forest. The forest belt is reached in around 30-40 min., after which the climb continues in a south – south-eastern direction reaching a wide saddle on the crest between the Malak Kom (1,159 m) and Sreden Kom (1,1944 m) peaks. This is also the main route of the E3 international tourist trail, its Bul- garian stretch being known popularly as the ‘Kom-Em- ine’ route. The trail reaches the pole markings on the crest - reliable reference points even in poor weather.

From the saddle, the trail continues to the west follow- ing red markings and poles, cutting below the Sreden

Guide to Western Stara planina 60 © IVAN VELOV IVAN ©

Kom peak along a well-trodden path through junipers and blueberries. In around 20 minutes, the trail goes around the peak and reaches the pass before the Kom peak (2,016 m). The Kom peak is ascended straight to the west, along the crest.

One will see the plaque of the patriarch of Bulgarian literature, Ivan Vazov, who frequently climbed the peak during his stay in Berkovitsa in order to admire the beautiful nature. Here he wrote the ‘To Kom’ poem.

Berkovitsa – Ashiklar locality Ashiklar is a beautiful locality 3.5 km south of the town of Berkovitsa, at the foot of the Stara Plani- 1:00 h na mountains. The route starts in the Stara Planina residential scheme. Leave along the Ashiklar Street past Hristo Botev School and continue straight ahead (south) on the Ashiklar Eco-trail. This hike takes around 40 minutes in one direction. 3,5 km

difficulty

Guide to Western Stara planina 61 Klisura monastery - Todorini kukli peak 4:00 h The route between the Klisura Monastery and the Todorini Kukli peak is long and steep. The marking is lost in some areas, or is hidden by scrub vegetation. For this reason it is recommended only to expert hikers or a qualified mountain guide should be used. 9 km A yellow marked route starts from the Klisura Mon- astery to the south, into the river valley. Initially, a dirt road must be followed. In around 3.5 km the trail climbs steeply up the eastern river slope. Here the difficulty markings and the dirt road disappear but one must walk up to the crest of the ridge, at around 1,000 m above sea level.

The trail continues in a south-west direction along the ridge crest, slowly gaining height towards the main crest of the mountain. In around 2.5 km, the Elenkov Kladenets locality with two winter marking poles will be reached. There one can fill up water from a well and continue towards the crest. The trail turns to the south and soon leaves the forest belt, where the winter marking posts can be seen. The Todorini Kukli peak is around 1.5 km away from there along the marked trail. © IVAN VELOV IVAN ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 62 Accommodation and lodging „Krastevata house“ complex This monument of culture is a small family hotel in the Bulgarian national revival style. The hotel offers 2 single rooms, 8 double rooms and 5 studios, and, also, a room for disabled people. The visitors are also wel- comed at the lobby bar, a steam bath, a sauna, a con- ference room for 30 persons, and a restaurant with a wonderful summer garden. © ”KRASTEVATA” HOUSE COMPLEX HOUSE ”KRASTEVATA” ©

Berkovitsa, Berkovitsa Municipality, Montana District, 5 Sheinovo Street Contact person: Ivan Kirkov Phone: +359 889 516 044 e-mail: [email protected] www. krastevakashta.com

Guide to Western Stara planina 63 CULTURAL CALENDAR

Guide to Western Stara planina 64 CONTACTS FOR LOCAL MOUNTAIN GUIDES, FARMS AND PRODUCERS IN NATURA 2000 AREAS The Western Stara Planina area Concerning all routes in the of the NATURA 2000 network Western Stara Planina area, includes farms registered with you may, following preliminary the Bulgarian Food Safety Agency arrangements, use the services of for production and direct sales of the mountain guides. dairy products, eggs, honey and bee products, homemade jams, juices, Krasimir Tankov and pepper purées. The products Phone: +359 887 905 111 on offer are environmentally clean - no additives, colorants, Vladimir Georgiev - transport preservatives or GMO components with high passable car are used. Phone: +359 887 711 993 Farms „SINEVKA“ OOD, Village of Prevala, Chiprovtsi Municipality Products: Rose hip marmalade, 350 g.; Blueberry jam, 350 g.; Cranberry jam, 350 g.; Sour cherry jam, 350 g.; Strawberry jam, 350 g.; Apricot jam, 350 g.; Quince jam, 350 g.; Homemade pepper purée, 350 g.

Contact: +359 885 922 787 – Maya Angelova © “SINEVKA” ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 65 „VARSHETS“ farm, town of Varshets, Montana district Products: Cow’s cheese, natural cow’s yoghurt, 400 g.

Contact: +359 877 857 685 © “VARSHETS” FARM “VARSHETS” ©

TEODOR PUSHKAROV‘s apiary, village of Melyane, Georgi Damyanovo Municipality Products: Bee honey

Contact: +359 887 098 645 © APIARY © TEODOR PUSHKAROV’S

„Blagovets“ farm, SLAVEIKO TODOROV, village of Blagovo, Products: Cow’s cheese, cow’s yellow cheese, natural cow’s yoghurt, 400 g.

Contact: +359 878 269 359 © “BLAGOVETS” FARM “BLAGOVETS” ©

Guide to Western Stara planina 66 „Replyanka“ farm, DIMITAR IVANOV, village of Replyanka, Chuprene municipality Seasonal products available from May Products: Sheep’s cheese, sheep’s yoghurt, 400 grams

Contact: +359 889 506 223 © DIMITAR GRADINAROV DIMITAR ©

ALEXANDER ALEXANDROV‘s farm, village of Balyuvitsa, Berkovitsa municipality Seasonal products available from May Products: Sheep’s cheese, sheep’s yoghurt, 400 grams Contact: +359 886 741 585

YORDAN ZHIVKOV‘s Farm, village of Prevala, Chiprovtsi municipality The eggs can be purchased from the Sinevka shop in the village of Preva- la. The quantities are limited during the winter. Products: Eggs from free-range hens

Contact: +359 885 922 787

Guide to Western Stara planina 67 IVAN IVANOV‘s farm, village of Zhelezna, Chiprovtsi municipality Products: Eggs from free-range hens

Contact: +359 878 405 660

IVAN ATANASOV‘s sheep farm, krusha locality, town of Berkovitsa, Berkovitsa municipality Products: Sheep’s yoghurt and cheese

Contact: +359 888 815 938 © DIMITAR GRADINAROV DIMITAR ©

„KARIANA“ COOPERATIVE, Teodor Valchev, village of Yagodovo, Berkovitsa municipality Product: Fresh goat’s milk

Contact: +359 898 777 911

Guide to Western Stara planina 68 CONTACTS

WWF BULGARIA

SOFIA 1612 TSAR BORIS III BLVD №19 B, FLOOR 4-5

TEL.: 02 / 9505041, 9872467 FAX: 02 / 9816640

SINCE 1985 WWF HAS INVESTED MORE THAN 1,165 BILLION DOLLARS IN MORE THAN 11 000 PROJECTS, IN 130 COUNTRIES. THIS IS JUST A PART OF THE ORGANIZATION’S EFFORTS TO FULFILL ITS MISSION: TO STOP THE DEGRADATION OF THE PLANET’S NATURAL ENVIRONMENT AND TO BUILD A FUTURE IN WHICH HUMANS LIVE IN HARMONY WITH NATURE.

PROJECT “FOR THE BALKAN AND THE PEOPLE” WON THE NATURA 2000 AWARD FOR 2016 IN THE CATEGORY “SOCIO-ECONOMIC BENEFITS”. THE AWARD IS GIVEN EACH YEAR BY THE EUROPEAN COMMISSION FOR OUTSTANDING ACHIEVEMENTS IN THE MANAGEMENT OF THE EUROPE- AN NATURA 2000 NETWORK AND IN PROMOTING ITS BENEFITS FOR THE LOCAL ECONOMY.

SUPPORTED BY A GRANT FROM SWITZERLAND THROUGH THE REFORM FUND LINKED TO CIVIL SOCIETY PARTICIPATION.

THE DONOR AND FUNDING STRUCTURES DON’T TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE CONTENT. FULL RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE CONTENT IN THIS DOCUMENT, LIES ENTIRELY WITH THE AUTHORS OF “FOR THE BALKAN & THE PEOPLE” PROJECT. •

RECYCLED 93 • are all the habitats, plants GUIDE TO WESTERN S T and animals protected in the Western Stara Planina NATURA 2000 site

398,5 km ARA PLANINA THE UNKN O marked trails in Western Stara Planina WN N A TURAL WEA L TH 6 5 trails to remarkable caves in Bulgaria B G

Why are we here

To stop the degradation of the planet’s natural environment and WW W to build a future in which humans live in harmony with nature.

www.wwf.bg www.facebook.com/wwfbulgaria .WW F

© 1986 WWF-World Wide Fund For Nature® is a .BG registered trademark of WWF.