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Two Thousand Miles Through the Heart of Mexico

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Two Thousand Miles Through the Heart of Mexico Accession Shelf No. l(p(o^ Cl yi; UlCCiAJCi Cornell University Library F 1215.M12 Two thousand miles through the heart of 3 1924 006 437 960 a Cornell University y Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924006437960 ..^.'f From HAUPtu's Magazine. Garden Scene. X TWO THOUSAND MILES THROUGH THE HEART OF MEXICO. REV. J. HESDIUCKSOX MCCARTY, D.D.,. AoTHOR OF "The Black Horsb and Carrvall/* ** Inside the Gates," etc. NEW YOKE: PHILLIPS & BUlfT. CINCINNATI: j^ CSA NS TON <e IS TO W 1886. Copyright, iS86, by PHILLIPS * HUNT. JJew York. ., TO THE MEMORV OF MY MOTHER. Ths.Authok. INTRODUCTOEY. ^7^ BOUT two years ago the author was enabled to ^^^ make somewhat of an extended tour through the lotus land of Mexico, which is almost as old as time and as quaint as Egypt itself. Mexico is a marvelous conglomerate of the ancient a;nd the modern—the pathetic and the ludicrous. To gaze upon a country and mingle with a people of whom he had read much in various books had long been a cherished desire of his heart. And to be able to gratify that desire constituted an epoch in his life. When but a mere lad he had read the glowing accounts ofthe famous battles of Palo Alto andResacadelaPalma, the storming of Monterey, and the victory of Buena Vista, where the brave Taylor and his gallant troops won renown. He had also read of the, bombardment of Vera Cruz and its capture, along with the Castle of San Juan d' Ulloa, the storming of the heights of Cerro Gordo, the battles of Contreras a-nd Molino del Rey, and the fall of Chapultepec. Little did he then think that his feet would ever press the soil crimsoned with the blood of his countrymen in the far-away land of the Aztecs. Of course, in a tour through Mexico there were many points of special interest to be visited. In the following pages he has kept in view the history of the stirring events ofthe war of 1846 and 1847, interwoven alike, as they are, in the annals of our own as well as in those of our sister republic. 6 Introductory. There is no other land quite like Mexico. A wonderful charm gathfers about the scenery, whether it be moun- tain or valley, sea-coast or table-land. The story of Mexico is as eventful as it is pathetic. Her people, in many of their characteristics, are unlike any other on the globe. Her history, which runs far back into the past, is a sanguinary one. When the Aztec empire was in its zenith of power her altars were stained perpetually with the blood of human sacrifices. And ever since the conquest her rich plains have been the scenes of innu- merable fierce and bloody revolutions. Here truth is, indeed, stranger than fiction. It has beerj said, " See Naples and die." See Mexico and live! To be able to do something to redeem that lofty land should be a stimulus to one's life. The author traveled through the most populous por- tion of the republic. The trip embraced about two thousand miles within the territory. As far as possible he allowed nothing worth seeing to escape his observa- tion. Yet he does not claim to have seen every thing. That would require years instead of months. He jour- neyed by diligence, railway, and horseback, traversed several mountain ranges, and courageously walked into the crater of a volcano—an extinct one! He descended into the bosom of the earth and witnessed the miners blasting out the silver ore with cartridges of dynamite. He saw the pure liquid metal running into the molds in the haciendas de beneficios, and was compelled to carry in his pocket, in heavy coin, sixteen dollars to the pound, what was needed for temporary use. So that for once in his life he had more solid cash than he wanted. He was on several of the largest ranches, where cattle and horses roam in herds of thousands. He was in scores of huts in the interior, as well as in some of the finest dwellings in Mexico. The route took him through Introductory. 7 many villages and gave him an opportunity to visit fifteen of the principal cities. He conversed with people of all grades of society, from the ignorant peon, in his rags and filth, up to persons of high social position, including army officers, college professors, bankers and merchants, as well as the governors of three States. He visited a number of the most renowned old Toltec and Aztec remains, had free entry into art galleries, museums, and schools. In short,. he saw Mexico from Nuevo Leon, on the extreme north-east, to Yucatan, on thfe far south, studying every feature of the land-surface, and all the Customs and manners, religion and politics, of the people as far as it was possible to do in so short a period Of time. That he mastered the subject he does not pretend; he only claims to have improved the time in sight-seeing, and to have gained some knowledge at least of this wonderful land and its people, which will be available in after years. Much has been omitted that might have been written in these pages. The story of Mexico is a long one. If the reader is disposed to find fault with the frequent references to the predomi- nant religion of Mexico, let it be remembered that the Church is the largest thing in Mexico, and that the " play of Hamlet with Hamlet left out " would be a poor play. Even American Catholics, with some of whom he has conversed on the subject, do not uphold the de- graded form of their own faith among the Mexicans. Facts are stubborn things. " The author left home in the railway coach May- flower," symbol of the nation to be, and returned in a ship bearing the name of the capital of a nation that is, the " City of Washington." On reaching home he had the satisfaction of having made one of the most profitable as well as enjoyable trips of his life, even if he had to undergo some dis- 8 Introductory. comforts on the way. It was a sufficient compensation for these to be able to see the land of the ancient , Aztecs, a portion of our own continent so near to us geographically, and yet as remote socially, as if it were on the opposite side of the globe. ' If the reader would see Mexico, while the glamour which Prescott's Conquest threw over it lingers, he must go quickly, for the "prince, whose name is Young Amer- ica, is already on the way to awake the Sleeping Beauty from the repose of Centuries." Mexico, under the new light which is dawning upon her social and civil fabrics, may yet have a future, let us all hope, as brilliant as her past has been thrilling. The Author. Penn Yan, N. Y., June 17, i886. CONTENTS. OHAfTEB PASE I. Dreams Realized u II. On THE Wing ly III. Gate-WAYS to the Land of the Aztecs 29 IV. Across the Rio Grande ; 43 v. Gem of the Mountains 50 VI. Land of the Beautiful View, 62 VII. Auip the Sierras 76 VIII. Hut Life among the Aztecs 85 IX. Village Life on the Table Lands 94 X. The Eye of the Sierras 105 XI. The Haunts of the Banditti 117 XII. The Home of Forty Robbers 121 XIII'. The Vales of Anahuac 145 XIV. The Adventurer of Miramar iSfr XV. The Paris of the Western World 170 XVI. Wanderings along Old Paths igr XVII. From Toltec to Spaniard 202 XVIII. A Grip of Steel 4.... 217 XIX. The March of Scott's Army „ 241 XX. From Sea^Coast to Mountain-Ckest 255 XXI. Songs in the Night 273 —a TWO THOUSAND MILES THROUGH PHE HEART -OF MEXICO. CHAPTER I. DREAMS REALIZED. Away from the snows—Short summers and long winters—So near and yet so far—The art of travel—People who can be approached " All^ not gold that glitters "—Oldest of countries—The adjust- " ment—First run—"Mayflower " and " Pilgrim —Speed and safety —Men die, but man does not—A thousand guards to life—The Zero point of danger—Grumblers—Patience. "^TT^EXICO ! In the month of February, 1884, when Ay-k.-^ the winds were moaning dismally through the naked branches of the trees, and all nature, as if asleep, lay in quiet repose beneath a coverlet of snow all over this north-land, I found myself able to realize a pleasure which had long occupied a place only in my dreams— trip to the sunny land of Mexico. but of the cold and away from the snows into a trop- ical latitude, where I might inhale the aroma of rare flowers and listen to the songs of other birds than those whose warblings greet and cheer us in this northern clime! What a privilege! I knew, from experience, all about the short summers and long winters of the region of the northern lakes, as well as the short winters and long -summers of the gulf coast. It~was not only a pleasure,, but it seemed to be a duty I owed to my "day and generation," that I should at least take a look at 12 Through the Heart of Mexico.
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