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The Conspicuous Body: Science and Fashion in Early Modern England Sadie Harrison UCL Volume I Thesis submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy 2018 DECLARATION I, Sadie Harrison, confirm that the work presented in this thesis is my own. Where information has been derived from other sources, I confirm that this has been indicated in the thesis. Signature: Date: 2 Abstract This thesis examines the relationship between science and fashion in the early modern period. It brings together the disciplines of fashion history and the history of science to understand the complicated role that proper appearances played in the signalling of credit in seventeenth and eighteenth-century England and France. In the Renaissance, clothing was an ornament used to display virtue and signal learning, often through textiles and accessories showing natural objects from flowers to sea-monsters. In the seventeenth century, this culture of fashion was challenged when members of the Royal Society were complicit in the introduction of the three- piece suit and a new notion that men should dress in a sober style. The Society was complicit in positioning ornament and fashion in opposition to this sobriety associated with proper masculinity and proper knowledge-making, The thesis argues that this opposition between ‘fashion’ and science became a commonplace in the eighteenth century. Various authors attacked those who engaged in fashionable dress as improper or unreliable thinkers. Many accusations were levelled against women. However, women resisted these changes and asserted their status as knowers of nature. They used textile design to express their natural knowledge. For example, Anna Maria Garthwaite’s silks were part of a feminine language of showing: one that rejected the opposition of science and fashion advocated by men. Women also manipulated their dress to cultivate credit in philosophical networks, for example in the Bluestocking circle in England and the French salons. Even if female dress was demoted from the same level of credibility as male costume in the eighteenth century, women still worked to use it as a means to secure credit and express their knowledge of nature. 3 Impact Statement This thesis reveals the history behind some of the assumptions and issues that continue to affect the making of knowledge today. How do we identify people as credible in the sciences, and have we always used the same assumptions to establish credit? It is widely acknowledged that diversity is scarce in the sciences (and indeed other areas of academia). People of non-white races, women, LGBT+ people, and more struggle to be perceived as credible. This thesis offers a historical context for these issues, with a specific focus on the case of women. This thesis seeks to understand how the prejudices around women in knowledge-making that prevail today came to be established. The study argues that the establishment of epistemic science as the primary way to know nature converged with reformulations of masculine credibility. The consequences of this convergence privileged white, heterosexual, able bodied males. Men were able to signal credibility through sartorial signals but women’s credibility as knowers of knowledge was not widely accepted. To make this argument, the thesis focuses on bodies, adornment, and credibility in seventeenth and eighteenth-century England. The thesis brings together two disparate disciplines of history. History of science and costume history have rarely interacted, but this thesis demonstrates that new perspectives can be gained by bringing these historical traditions into dialogue. This thesis brings new sources to bear on the history of science. Few histories of science incorporate clothing in any form. This history uses extant textiles, museum objects, portraiture, and textual descriptions of clothing to understand the role that appearance had in the lives of those who sought credibility in knowledge-making circles. Likewise, cultural histories of clothing have rarely focused on the consequences of fashion on epistemic practices. The research within this thesis has already informed my role as a communicator of science history and a practitioner of public outreach. Recently, I have appeared on a podcast produced by the BBC three times, bringing my perspective on credibility and prejudices within society to a global public audience. 4 The project of raising awareness of the issues revealed in this thesis continues. I will be incorporating my studies into a publication on diversifying science history curriculums, currently in preparation. This thesis explores issues of identity and credibility, which can be applied to case studies beyond the scope of the chapters that follow. It is my hope that other historians may find my conclusions useful for understanding credibility in identity in the sciences and beyond. 5 For Chris, my husband And for our Minerva 6 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS This thesis is about credibility and the need to be credible in knowledge-making practices. I would like to thank those who saw me as credible and trusted me as a maker of knowledge. I would like to thank my supervisors, Simon Werrett and Mechthild Fend. Simon has encouraged and trusted my research since I started in academia as a Masters student. He has had faith in my project and in my perspective and ensured I was never lost along the way. Mechthild Fend’s advice has strengthened me as a researcher. Thank you both. I have been supported by an amazing network of friends and colleagues. The staff and students of the Science and Technology Studies department have been sources of support and motivation throughout this journey. I would especially like to thank Phyllis Illari and Chiara Ambrosio for encouragement and advice. I would like to thank my fellow PhD students for embarking on this journey with me. I’d like to thank project collaborators and friends Erika Jones, Farrah Lawrence-Mackey, Rebecca Martin, and Hannah Mills. Raquel Strini Velho has been by my side since day one and I am honoured by her friendship. I am forever indebted to Erman Sozudogru, the MVP, for his support and encouragement and wit. Katherine Jane Cecil has constantly encouraged and believed in me and my research. Outside of academia, I have had the company of a social circle that has seen me through the thesis. I would like to thank Susan Brundage for providing me with a base of operations for the final stretch of the thesis. While undertaking this project, I have had the fellowship of two people who have been in my life since childhood. Leina Masek has been my constant confidant since 4th grade. I could not have done this, or indeed anything really, without her. My brother, Jake Seymour, is finishing a Masters as I finish this PhD. It has been a privilege to share the ups and downs of academia with him. 7 I am so lucky to share my life with Chris, my husband. His pride in my work, his belief in my writing, and his endless support saw me through. Everything that I have accomplished has been because I have him standing with me. 8 Table of Contents List of Figures ........................................................................................11 Introduction ..........................................................................................18 Fashion in the History of Science ..................................................................19 Science in the History of Fashion .................................................................23 Methodology ................................................................................................26 The Structure of the Argument .....................................................................28 Chapter One: .........................................................................................30 The Hardwick Portrait: Dress as a Cabinet of Wonders .......................30 Naturalia in Cabinets of Curiosity .................................................................33 Naturalia in Textiles .....................................................................................41 Naturalia in Jewellery ..................................................................................48 Books of Nature to Textiles of Naturalia .......................................................53 The Portrait: Naturalia on the Body .............................................................60 Conclusion ...................................................................................................68 Chapter Two: ........................................................................................69 “Adorned, Embellished, and Ornamented:” Science, Fashion, and Credibility in the Early Royal Society ..................................................69 A Plain Way of Speaking… and Dressing .......................................................71 Modesty, Virtue, and the Modest Witness .....................................................77 The Banyan: the Indicator of a Philosopher ..................................................81 Re-Fashioning Masculinity ...........................................................................84 Masculine Fashions and the Place of Women ................................................91 Margaret Cavendish, Philosopher and Outsider ...........................................93 Critiquing Experimental Philosophy ............................................................96 Conclusion ...................................................................................................99